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New test methods for cosmetic ingredients.
September 28, 2011
By: TOM BRANNA
Editor
Symrise and Cutech have jointly developed an ex vivo real skin model that provides conclusive information on the efficacy of, for example, anti-aging products. The model bridges the gap between in vitro and in vivo testing, according to the companies. Symrise and Cutech have now received a European patent for the method. The requirements and the economic parameters involved in the development and marketing of new products are continually growing and changing. Thus, it is of pivotal importance to demonstrate the efficacy of new care products and describe their mechanisms of action before starting complex and costly clinical testing. For this reason, Symrise AG and Cutech Srl. (Italy) established a joint research alliance. The result: one of the most comprehensive ex vivo human skin models to date – one that bridges the gap between in vitro and in vivo testing. The model allows for conclusive tests of e.g. anti-aging, skin whitening, and anti-cellulite products. Traditional skin models used for test series only comprise the outer skin layers, epidermis and dermis. The new model now also includes subcutaneous tissue as well as hair follicles, thus offering greater efficiency and numerous additional testing possibilities. For example, the new model permits more accurate predictions of long-term effects in humans. The model is patented in Europe and enables high-quality, validated screening of individual raw materials as well as finished products for skin care. This new model expands the methods available for skin and hair follicle tests that both companies use for product development. Via “SCoutech” – a screening service offered by Symrise and Cutech for in vitro and ex vivo testing methods – other companies can also utilize the model for their own developments. Dr. Paolo Pertile, Cutech’s CEO, explains: “The potential for developing new products, especially from natural sources, is still extremely high. We have al-ways been convinced that a key competitive factor is the development of the most appropriate screening technologies. With this project, by taking advantage of our experience with skin tissue engineering we have set up a preclinical screening model, which we consider to be the most representative of the in vivo environment. To make full use of this model, we apply the most informative and pragmatic cellular and molecular read-out parameters.” most representative of the in vivo environment. To make full use of this model, we apply the most informative and pragmatic cellular and molecular read-out parameters.” Dr. Gabriele Vielhaber, senior vice president of Life Essentials at Symrise, adds, “Together with suitable partners, we are constantly looking for new technologies to advance our development work of active ingredients for cosmetic products. Together with Cutech, we have developed a reliable testing procedure for ingredients and formulas. Using this, downstream clinical testing can be targeted more accurately. SCoutech customers receive relevant results quickly and efficiently. This is where our expertise lies – in the development of technologies that set industry standards.” More info: www.symrise.com, www.cutech.it
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