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Our look at innovative components cosmetic chemists should consider for their next skincare formula.
September 11, 2024
Happi asked suppliers to dish about their hottest ingredients designed for modern skincare formulas. From ingredients that offer anti-pollution protection or boost NAD+ levels, to solutions that can be used in patches and masks, to workhorses like niacinamide and alpha hydroxy acids, below are 10 options to consider for your next big launch or reformulation effort.
INCI: Water, propanediol, yeast extract, xanthan gum, pentylene glycol, levulinic acid, glyceryl caprylate)
Shiloxome offers “multi-ome” skin protection that goes beyond barrier care. It is an anti-pollution and skin restructuring active, providing preventive and corrective well-aging effects.
Where to get it: Provital USA
INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua / Water)
Mibelle says RejuveNAD boosts NAD+ levels, tackles five hallmarks of aging; energizes mitochondria and promotes DNA repair; and makes the skin appear eight years younger.
Where to get it: Mibelle Biochemisty
INCI: Terminalia chebula fruit extract
Synastol TC is standardized and scientifically proven to help reduce signs of oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, repair and maintain skin’s barrier, activate pro-longevity protein kinase AMPK, prevent cellular senescence, modulate circadian rhythm genes, inhibit and reverse glycation while supporting collagen synthesis. Sytheon says this powerhouse product provides a 360° approach to address well-aging concerns.
Where to get it: Sytheon
Silab’s SILAFILM is a unique technology of natural, biodegradable dry film, highly concentrated in active ingredients, which can be used by brands in patches, strips, masks etc. Silab developed two films based on this technological innovation: SILAFILM Radiance, a genuine radiance-boosting concentrate, and SILAFILM Pureness, an anti-imperfection concentrated care.
Where to get it: Silab
INCI: Niacinamide
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a stable vitamin that offers a range of well-documented topical benefits. Niacinamide is a component of NAD and NADP, essential coenzymes in ATP production, also having a central role in DNA repair and skin homeostasis. Like all DSM’s vitamins, Quali-B comes with the Quality for Life seal.
Where to get it: Univar
INCI: Propanediol (&) Glycerin (&) Pueraria Lobata Root Extract (&) Eucommia Ulmoides Leaf Extract
MMP offers Flav’ential AGE POF, a synergistic blend of Puerarin (Pueraria Lobata ‘Kudzu’ extract) and Chlorogenic Acids (Eucommia Ulmoides ‘Du Zong’ extract), a combination with anti-glycation activity: Protects fibrillin and the elastic network from degradation, Inhibits the formation of inflammatory Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs).
Where to get it: MMP Inc.
INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Sodium Alginate (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Calcium Chloride (and) Copper Tripeptide-1
Bellativa Tri-CopperCAP is an encapsulated copper tripeptide-1 solution, well-known for its ability to improve skin’s firmness, elasticity, and clarity, while helping repair the protective skin barrier protein. It helps decrease the depth of lines and wrinkles, and reduces inflammation. The alginate encapsulation enhances the stability and skin penetration of the peptide.
Where to get it: Coast Southwest
INCI: 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Water
3GA is patented vitamin C derivative by Seiwa Kasei, which promises skin care and moisturizing effect. Further, 3GA is stable vitamin C with less color change. Seiwa Kasei says it is easy to use 3GA in various application.
Where to get it: Seiwa Kasei Co. Ltd.
INCI: Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is a high molecular weight AHA that is soluble in water and polar organic solvents. The structure of mandelic acid allows it to penetrate the skin more slowly which in turn makes it very gentle and suitable for all skin types including the most sensitive skin. It exfoliates, brightens and promotes even skin tone.
Where to get it: Caribbean Natural Products
INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Natursol EMI Lite represents a paradigm shift in skincare formulation, according to SNF. Combining light texture and stabilizing performance, this innovative rheology modifier boasts a naturality index of 78%, positioning it as a frontrunner in environmentally conscious beauty solutions. With its superior biodegradability, Natursol EMI Lite offers skincare formulators the opportunity to create luxurious textures without compromising eco-friendliness.
Where to get it: SNF
For more insight on what new ingredients marketers like The Outset, Neutrogena, Elizabeth Arden, Eight Saints and others are using in skincare right now, see this new feature in our September issue.
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