Christine Esposito, Managing Editor05.04.21
Stuck at home for a year, consumers shifted their spending to different types of skin care products. They shopped at retailers that sold other pandemic essentials, like food, booze, and the most coveted product of 2020, toilet paper.
According to The NPD Group, prestige skin care sales, which fell by 11% in 2020, fared better than the prestige beauty market overall (which reported a decline of 19%). Pockets of growth came from body creams/lotions, exfoliators, cleansers, serums and devices. Still, it wasn’t nearly enough to compensate for the declines across the largest areas of the skin care market, namely face cream, face serum and eye treatments.
During the pandemic, consumers had access to supermarkets and box retailers such as Target, unlike beauty counters inside department stores and outlets like Blue Mercury, Ulta and Sephora, which were temporarily shuttered during stay-at-home orders. In mass, skin care sales rose 1.8% for the 52 weeks ended March 21, 2021, according to Information Resources, Inc.
Moisturizers were the stars of the sector, posting 12.8% growth and hand and body lotion sales rose a healthy 4.9%. Facial cleansers also posted a modest rise (see chart).
For isolated consumers, self-care became essential in 2020. Therefore, winners in the beauty market were those that helped to create a spa environment at home or helped achieve a beauty maintenance task that was outsourced pre-pandemic (think waxing). New habits like mask-wearing led to new areas of concern for the general population, evidenced by the rise of “maskne” as a Google search term in August 2020. Successful beauty brands addressed the issue with product launches and outreach on social media.
In fact, during the past year, successful skin care brands migrated to social platforms in order to reach customers. They bolstered their websites and online stores to mimic in-store experiences.
According to beauty tech expert Perfect Corp, its Skin Score AI skin diagnostic technology—which provides a skin health diagnostic in seconds—saw greater adoption among consumers during the pandemic. In the US, there was an 11% increase in Skin Score engagement from February to March 2020—the start of the pandemic. The highest Skin Score engagement months were March, April, May and June, coinciding with the strictest lockdowns and stay-at-home orders.
Incorporating the technology is paying off for Marianna Naturals, a plant-based skin care marketer based in Montreal. The Perfect Corp technology uses 106-point real-time facial landmarks, AI-trained 3D facial recognition and deep learning technology for a hyper-realistic virtual skin diagnostic experience through a mobile device. Once the user’s face is scanned by the camera, she receives product recommendations based on skin health results. After selecting a recommended product, users navigate to check-out for a one-tap purchase experience. According to Perfect Corp., since launching the skin diagnostics tool in January 2021, the brand’s website traffic jumped 300% and dwell time soared 330%. Most importantly, sales increased 30%, according to Perfect Corp.
Healthier Skin for All
Engaging with consumers no matter where they are, or who they are, will be critical to revive the market. Like many other CPG categories, skin care product consumers change their habits around all types of goods and services as they change their daily routine. For example, the overall move toward wellness (see article on p. 42), is shifting the focus of skin care toward skin health.
Promoting skin health is familiar territory for brands such as Neutrogena. More recently, the Johnson & Johnson-owned brand announced a long-term commitment to its legacy in skin care science and health advocacy to advance skin health for all through a new platform called “For People With Skin.”
Under this new mission, Neutrogena says it is taking action to overcome skin health barriers, including the 130 million Americans who are impacted by skin health disparities due to socioeconomic status, race and ethnicity, and access to healthcare.
According to the Neutrogena Skin Health in America Survey, 62% of Americans, ages 18 and over, recently experienced a situation where they were unable to access the skin care or medical expertise needed to help with a skin issue. Moreover, US adults earning less than $25,000 a year are 1.7 times less likely to have ever visited a dermatologist, according to research conducted by Neutrogena.
For its part, Neutrogena will offer the “knowledge, tools and science-backed solutions” to help all people achieve their best skin ever, no matter their skin issues, skin color, skin type or age, according to Kerry Sullivan, general manager, Neutrogena.
In a phone interview with Happi, Sullivan emphasized Neutrogena’s long-history in advancing skin science and its leadership position in the mass market skin care category as a foundation from where the brand will build.
“We are the No. 1 brand in skin care in US, and we must constantly live up to that,” Sullivan told Happi.
Through this multi-faceted plan, the brand says it is committed to continuing to take action to address barriers that stand in the way of skin health by investing in four core pillars: advocacy, education, expertise and transparency. Through that lens, Neutrogena says it will ensure equitable and accessible skin care products for all consumers using an inclusive approach to identify key insights that drive meaningful product innovations and relevant claims in products that are safe for all consumers across the full Fitzpatrick scale of skin tones.
Further, the brand will expand its existing partnership with Johnson & Johnson Innovation’s Black Innovators in Skin Health QuickFire Challenge, which awards a grant winner up to $50,000 to continue her work to advance science for products dedicated to skin of color. Areas of interest in this year’s challenge include acne and post-acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, scalp care and sun protection. The grant winner is expected to be announced sometime this month.
Neutrogena said it will leverage R&D, scientist, and dermatologist expertise to make the best skin science, products and solutions accessible and inclusive. To start, the brand is launching the Self-Exam Beautifully guide, an interactive microsite that represents a wide range of skin tones and types designed to make self-exams more inclusive and engaging for the purpose of early detection of skin cancers.
Another new component is Neutrogena Studios, which will provide a medium to tell compelling stories that educate consumers about the science behind skin health, celebrate healthy skin for all, and inspire people to action, according to the brand. “In the Sun,” the first film produced by the studio, follows the skin health journeys of seven families facing extraordinary circumstances. The film’s executive producer is Kerry Washington, a long-time Neutrogena ambassador and Emmy Award-winning actress.
Pared Down Approach to Skin Care
According to Neutrogena’s research, consumers feel they lack the expertise on how best to take care of their own skin needs. Couple that with the fact that 73% of Americans claim there are too many skin care options to choose from, and it’s easy to see how the average shopper might feel overwhelmed.
Today’s consumers are simplifying their lifestyles, and for many that can mean paring down their daily skin care regimen and seeking products with shorter ingredient lists.
You can’t get much more compact than Ingredients, a new brand developed by The Art of Shaving Co-Founders Myriam and Eric Malka. The brand lists every ingredient, including its exact formulation percentage, on the front of each product.
The Malkas sold the Art of Shaving in 2009, but their love of product development and formulation and a desire to build cleaner products, lured them back into skin care.
“We know how difficult it is to create a competitive brand in this industry,” Eric Malka told Happi.
Ingredients is all about, well, the ingredients.
“Not enough focus is placed on what’s inside the bottle,” said Eric Malka.
But that’s not the case at Ingredients; formulation falls under the purview of Myriam Malka.
According to the Malkas, the collection contains only essential ingredients to maintain healthy skin—namely plant water, essential fatty acids, plant extracts, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, probiotics and essential oils. The formulations are free from petrochemicals, synthetic preservatives and water dilution.
Further, Ingredients says its formulas are “deconstructed” and use minimally processed, 100% active plant-based ingredients to create separate plant water- and oil-based formulas, which eliminates the need for stabilizing and binding chemicals such as emulsifiers, texture enhancers, fillers and solubilizers.
Ingredients has just three products: Face Cleanser, an organic, soap-free foaming facial cleanser that gently purifies the skin and “respects” the skin microbiome; Face Serum, a concentrated phytonutrient, antioxidant and amino acid-rich serum that soothes and deeply hydrates, boosts collagen production and brightens skin; and Oil Complex, a lightweight product rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9, phytonutrients and vitamins from unrefined marula, rosehip seed and sea buckthorn fruit oils that help restore the skin’s natural lipid barrier, nourish, boost collagen renewal and restore skin elasticity. The three-step regimen is recommended for use after consumers follow a two-day skin fast; by eliminating all skin care products, the skin “resets” and, in turn, improves the way it functions, according the brand.
“Every decision we make has wellness in mind,” said Myriam Malka.
Return To Sender
Another newcomer to the skin care scene is Ace of Air, a B Corp-certified clean beauty and wellness brand. According to the founders— who include seasoned beauty executive Stephanie Stahl, supermodel Petra Nemcova and David Knowlton of Three Ocean Partners—the range is billed as first and only beauty and wellness brand designed to be entirely circular and fully zero-waste.
According to Stahl, a former Revlon c-suite leader who serves as CEO, the goal was to create an uplifting, inclusive brand for women and men designed to have a positive impact on people and planet with powerfully nourishing skin care and supplement products.
The Leaping Bunny Certified range includes topical products such as Illuminate Me Halo Moisturizer (which contains moringa) and Restore Me Space Age Serum (featuring honokiol) as well as Restore Mega Me Vegan Omega Complex Supplement, billed as broad spectrum super-omega concentrate derived from a combination of patented phytonutrient-rich fruits and vegetables that help boost long-term body, brain, eye and skin health.
Ace of Air’s products are priced between $35-$85, and come in packaging that is designed to be re-used up to 100 times as part of the brand’s “buy the product, borrow the package” model. With their order, consumers are sent a “boomerang box” that is sent back to the company with empties, where a “proprietary, environmentally conscious” cleaning process sterilizes the packaging. Ace of Air has also partnered with UPS to incorporate carbon-neutral shipping.
“Consumers buy products, they don’t buy sustainability,” insists Stahl.
At The Core
As this issue headed to press came another novel launch from Dr. Robb Akridge, the co-founder of Clarisonic. His new venture, Opulus Beauty Labs, developed an appliance and accompanying finished formula in an anhydrous format that allows his brand to combine ingredients that are typically harder to formulate together.
“There are a lot of good actives out there, but they have some challenges,” noted Akridge.
Opulus Beauty Labs’ patent-pending “Opoule” formulations separate key ingredients into two parts: a core and an outer coat (in a design similar to that of a candy truffle, which served as inspiration, according to Akridge). The opoule is placed inside the appliance, where it is quickly warmed and blended with shear force to create a freshly activated serum-to-cream textured product at peak potency.
The concentrated treatments are not diluted with water, highly stable and low in preservatives, according to the company, which operates out of the Pacific Northwest where Akridge lives. He is formulating onsite with a start-up team of 12; there’s no contract manufacturer involved, he told beauty editors during a Zoom event last month.
Opulus Beauty Labs offers a Retinol+ Ramp-Up Night Cream Regimen that comes in three different levels of increasing retinol concentrations (0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%). The retinol is nestled inside the core, and the formulation also contains ceramide III and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
For dermatologist Marnie Nussbaum, MD, a main benefit is the product’s ability to deliver an exact percentage of retinol in a “one-and-done” nighttime treatment that eliminates the need for layering products.
Opulus Beauty Labs also offers RHR Overnight Mask, a richly textured no-rinse mask that features allantoin, another material that Akridge described as a “typically fussy.” While allantoin is at its best at a 2% concentration, traditional skin care products often contain less than half that, he said. With his patent-pending coat and core format, there is a full 2% allantoin in each RHR mask.
The thermal blending process heats the product which aids absorption, said Akridge.
NPD Starts Here…
From mass market leaders making a commitment to serve more consumers to luxury startups with unique formula formats, the skin care launchpad has busy so far in 2021—and it shows no signs of slowing. (For a rundown of new skin launches out this season, see Happi.com.)
But enough about your competitors! To find a new ingredient that propels your next big launch, see our new skin care ingredients directory.
New Skin Care Ingredients
Below is a list of new ingredients for skin care products, introduced by industry suppliers. For more information on the materials listed, please contact the companies directly using the information provided.
BASF Care Creations, North America
Florham Park, NJ, USA
BeautyCare-NA@basf.com
https://CareCreations.BASF.com
Mimiskin
INCI: Myristyl Myristate (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Applications: Face cream, face serum, face mist, face mask, Face primer, lip treatment, lip serum, body lotion, body mist
Attributes: A biodegradable film-forming patented technology based on lipid particles, which serves as a polymer alternative. Allows for skin breathability, while providing a barrier to add a layer of protection. The breathability links this to use in sensitive skin applications.
PeptAIde 4.0
INCI: Water (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Offers a safe and nature-based solution for hair and skin damage caused by silent inflammation. Four natural, multifunctional rice peptides discovered through Artificial Intelligence. Scientifically proven to help prevent dry skin, relieve loss of firmness, while soothing sensitive scalp prone to flakes.
Phytofirm Biotic
INCI: Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: A soybean extract bio-fermented by the Lactobacillus plantarum strain rich in peptides and lactic acid, with skin firming and elasticity benefits demonstrated in a clinical study. Offers an effective alternative to soy protein hydrolysate when making probiotic skin care products.
Biosil Technologies
Allendale, NJ
201-825-8800
Philip@biosiltech.com
www.biosiltech.com
Ocea Health
INCI: Water, Padina Pavonica Thallus extract, Bio-propanediol
Applications: Anti-Age
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Ocea Health is the first defensome enhancer tested on over 3300 genes. It delivers systemic protection and skin regeneration. Ocea Health strengthens the skin’s natural defensomes with improvements in: epidermal integrity, cell resilience, immune protection, inflammation and wound healing.
Scutaline
INCI: Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Applications: Anti-Age
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Scutaline prevents the formation and spread of senescent cells (zombie cells) and combats “Inflamm’aging” (Chronic inflammation). It protects against the degradation of the extracellular matrix, improves moisturization and targets overwhelmed skin.
BotanicalsPlus
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1417
info@botanicalsplus.com
www.botanicalsplus.com
BP—Triluronic Acid
INCI: Water (and) Sodium Hyaluronate
Applications: applicable across all leave on and rinse off
Use Level: 1-3%
Attributes: A combination of three different molecular weight fractions of natural HA produced through fermentation. In-vitro studies have showcased its efficacy in supporting the formation and overall health of the skin barrier. Available in liquid, powder and anhydrous varieties.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
+49 30 8510260
info@clr-berlin.com
www.clr-berlin.com
CutiBiome CLR
INCI: Octyldodecanol, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Piper Nigrum Seed Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Applications: Skin care
Use Level: 1.5-3.0%
Attributes: Has strong benefits for oily and acne prone skin, as well as sensitive and dandruff scalp. New studies have shown, that, both on facial skin and the scalp, it effectively supports the skin microbiome in recovering a healthy composition.
Corum
Taiwan
+886-2-8751-6060
marketing.support@corum.com.tw
Azeclair P
INCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Applkications: Oil control, Anti-acne, skin clarifying products including cleaners, clear solutions, gels, gel-emulsions and O/W emulsions.
Use Level: 0.5-5%
Attributes: Azeclair P is a cosmetic active catered for oily and acne-prone skin with high efficacy in sebum normalizing, skin brightening, hydrating and anti-pollution. It comes in powder form and preservative free.
C-Pep Quintup
INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Applications: Anti-aging, anti-stretch mark, eye contour, lip care, firming and color cosmetics products including lotions, creams, serums and etc.
Use Level: 1-6%
Attributes: C-Pep Quintup is a synthetic lipopeptide, conjugating long chain fatty acid to improve skin penetration and skin affinity. It stimulates the production of type I and IV collagen and protects collagen degradation from UV radiation and stress hormone, which brings a long-term anti-aging effect.
DSM Personal Care
Parsippany, NJ
973-257-8222
Info.Pc-na@dsm.com
www.dsm.com/personal-care
Syn-Glow
INCI: Benzoyl Dipeptide-18 D-Phenylalanyl Arginyl D-Tryptophan Dipropylamide Mesylate
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Syn-Glow is the new glow-boosting skin peptide ingredient that works with the skin to bring out its natural healthy glow, all year round, as if you are just back from vacation!
Hya-Act M
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 0.01-1%
Attributes: Certified microbiome-friendly Hya-Act M enhances hydration after one hour. This medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid strengthens the skin’s barrier by building a superior protective film and gives a dewy look. Smaller molecular weights available, Hya-Aact XS and Hya-Act S
Alpaflor-Alp-Sebum CB ALPAFLOR -ALP-SEBUM CB
INCI: Epilobium Fleischeri / Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract
Applications: Face and Scalp
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Alpaflor-Alp-Sebum CB, DSM’s sustainable, organic prebiotic to reduce skin oiliness and balance the microbiome. Cosmos, Natrue organic certified and fair trade for Life. This bioactive ingredient is part of DSM’s Alpaflor Clean Beauty line.
Evonik
Essen, Germany
804-727-0700
EvonikPC@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personalcare
Rovisome Retinol Moist PRO
INCI: Water/Aqua; Pentylene Glycol; Lecithin; Alcohol; Retinol; Polysorbate 20; Potassium Phosphate; Tocopherol
Applications: Anti-Aging/Anti-Wrinkle Skin Care
Use Level: 1%-3%
Attributes: Rovisome Retinol Moist PRO is a stabilized vitamin A/Retinol that is encapsulated in an advanced delivery system able to enhance bioavailability and reduce skin irritation. This produce offers label-friendly solution that does not contain stabilizers BHA and BHT.
TEGO Natural Amaranth
INCI: Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil
Applications: Facial skin care emulsions, Body lotions
Use Level: 1%-10%
Attributes: TEGO Natural Amaranth is a natural oil rich in natural squalene and lipids that help provide a smooth skin feel as well as enhance skin elasticity and prevent photodamages.
Hyacare Tremella
INCI: Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp extract
Applications: Anti-aging skin care
Use Level: 0.01% - 0.2%
Attributes: Hyacare Tremella is a natural hyaluronic acid mimetic with proven moisturization and exceptional water retention properties. It is derived from a mushroom extract.
Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
201-791-8700
salesmarketing@grantinc.com
www.grantinc.com
GRANSPERSE White/Red/Yellow/Black Pigment Dispersions
INCI: Black-CU-65: Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Yellow-CU-51: Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Red-CU-57: Iron Oxides (CI 77491), White-CU-65: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer
Applications: Tinted Lotions, Foundations, BB Creams, SPF Products.
Use Level: 1-25%
Attributes: A unique milled dispersion with an optimal ratio of powder, dispersant and fluid system. It permits better spreadability and has a light and moisturizing feel which you cannot find in any other dispersions in the market. Available in 4 colors, both treated and untreated.
Hallstar Beauty
Darien, IL
877-427-4255
BeautyCS@hallstar.com
www.hallstarbeauty.com
Biome Oléoactif
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (and) Avena Sativa Kernel Oil (and) Bacillus Ferment
Applications: [Skin-Microbiome] care, microbiome-friendly care, post-prebiotic care, skin barrier strengthener, beauty enhancer, prevention of imbalanced skin condition. Men and women care. Suitable for all types of skin. Cleansing products, oily serums, primers, color cosmetics.
Use Level: 0.5% - 5%
Attributes: First microbiome-friendly active ingredient enriched with bacterial fatty acids.100% natural oil-based postbiotic extract with prebiotic effect. Balances skin microbiota. Maintains epidermal barrier integrity. Can be combined various ingredients to create a holistic system that promotes healthy, youthful, beautiful skin.
Olivem 2090
INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate
Applications: Skin care, sun care, baby care, color cosmetics, silver beauty/positive ageing.
Use Level: 3-5%
Attributes: Natural-derived, cold-process, biomimetic W/O emulsifier. Contributes light sensoriality and hydration benefits. Creates a homogeneous layer that surrounds water droplets, enabling high stability. Improves the wettability of TiO2 and ZnO. Perfectly emulsifies all organic sun filters. Excellent powder wetting and dispersing properties.
Blush Oléoactif
INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil (and) Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf Extract
Applications: Skin care for sensitive and reactive skin, positive aging, urban skin care (antioxidant, skin barrier protection); face serum, beauty mask, makeup, anhydrous formula, natural and organic product, rosy shades
Use Level: 1% - 5%
Attributes: 100% natural liposoluble active inspired by the ancestral use of the indigo-plant. Quantifiable benefits vs. placebo. Enhances skin condition as well as consumers’ self-perception and emotional state. Protects skin barrier. Visibly reduces redness. Promotes skin luminosity.
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, NC
704-633-8028
personalcare@innospecinc.com
www.innospec.com
Pureact I-78P
INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Use Levels: 1-5% in liquid and 2-60% in syndet bars
Attributes: Pureact I-78P is a mild, sulfate-free surfactant used in personal care cleansing products. This unique, powdered surfactant is derived from coconut and considered readily biodegradable. It produces dense lather that contributes to overall foam stability of finished formulations.
Pureact 138
INCI: Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Use Level: As a primary surfactant - 20 to 40% and as a secondary surfactant - 2 to15%
Attributes: A natural, mild surfactant combination comprised of decyl glucoside and sodium lauroyl lactylate. This optimized blend is easy to use, requiring no heat during mixing and provides exceptional foaming in finished formulations. Both components are derived from natural, readily renewable resources.
Specsil k-71
INCI: Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Use Level: 1-15%
Attribibutes: Specsil k-71 is a 100% silicone MQ resin. It is soluble in several different silicone fluids (low viscosity dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane) and organic fluids up to concentrations of 50% or more. This silicone resin provides superior wash-off resistance in a variety of cosmetic applications.
Jeen International Corp.
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1401
info@jeen.com
www.jeen.com
Oleosil LC
INCI: C9-12 Alkane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3
Applications: applicable across all leave on and rinse off
Use Levels: 0.5 – >90%
Attributes: A 90% naturally derived silicone elastomer gel that serves as a safer and more biodegradable option than traditional silicones. Adds smoothness, slip, non-greasy lubrication, and enhanced softness to skin care formulations. RSPO certified. ISO 16128 Natural Origin Index >0.9
Lincoln MFG-USA
North Kingstown, RI
401-599-7011
PatLutz@LincolnMFG-USA.com
www.LincolnMFG-USA.com
HydroGuard H-20
INCI: Propanediol (All Natural)/ Hydroxyacetophenone (Nature-Identical)
Use levels: 1.0 – 2.0%
Applications: Skin care and all personal care products
Attributes: Multifunctional formulation protectant against biodegradation with moisturizer, humectant and emollient properties. Excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.
NuSolutions 1% HYA
INCI: Hyaluronic acid (1%) in water
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Skin care and all personal care products
Attributes: 1% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in water. Preserved with patented Linatural MBS-1. Excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.
NuSolutions EZ-Guar
INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Skin care and all personal care products
Attributes: EZ-Guar is a 2% Guar in water for ease of use and preserved with Patented Linatural MBS-1. Two versions – C14, which is ideal for shampoo and body washes and C17, which is ideal for deep conditioning. Excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.
LipoTrue Inc
New Brunswick, NJ
(732) 839-2761
info@lipotrue.com
https://lipotrue.com/
iPeptide
INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Applications: eye care, fatigue features, lack of sleep, eyebags, darks circles, melatonin-like protection, rested look, eye awakening
Use Level: 1-3%
Attributes Several factors affect our sleep quality. Insufficient sleep visually translates in a tired and unhealthy look with hanging eyelids, swollen eyes and dark circles. What if we could biohack chronic bad sleep? iPeptide is your next generation eye peptide tackling tired features cause by sleep deprivation.
Silstem-U
INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Applications: Body care, body positive, slimming, self-esteem, “orange peel” skin, cellulite, your shape
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Green active ingredient that mimics the action of cold exposure or exercise conditions, in acting directly on naturally innervated adipose tissue. Silstem-U enhances the release of NRG4, an adipokine which activates lipolytic functions and improves adipose tissue innervation to induce a slimming effect and reduction of cellulite.
Col-Frag remastered
INCI: Collagen Amino Acids
Applications: Collagen booster, lifting, brightness, reshaping face contour, wrinkle improvement, collagen builder, remastering collagen
Use Level: 1-3%
Attributes: Col-Frag remastered is a plant-based fragment of human type I collagen transiently expressed through the Wild plants as biofactories technology. A remastered concept of classical collagen that never fails meeting the cosmetic market needs for a sustainable, animal friendly, and with a high efficacy active ingredient.
Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
800-379-5389
personalcare@lubrizol.com
www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster
INCI: Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (and) Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
CFDA compliant
Applications: Increases SPF in cosmetic and skin care products
Use Level: 3-5wt% (100% TS)
Attributes: Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster is a naturally-derived technology that increases SPF and is compatible with both organic and inorganic sunscreen actives. It is non-nano, inherently biodegradable and non-persistent in the environment meaning you’re now able to reduce the quantity of UV filters.
Argireline Amplified peptide solution
INCI: Water (Aqua), Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Benzoate
Applications: Anti-aging
Use Level: 2-5%
Attributes: A multifunctional ingredient visibly transforming tired, dull, aging skin into a glowing, youthful complexion. Developed according to the principles of green chemistry, the hexapeptide is an evolution of Argireline peptide with superior activity and added post-expression relaxation and anti-aging effects.
Uniclay biotech ingredient
INCI: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Bacillus Ferment
Applications: Clay skin care treatments
Use Level: 2-3%
Attributes: Fermentation-based extract mimicking the effects of clay on the skin; offers cleaner, smoother and more beautiful skin for all ethnicities and improved sense of well-being. It has 100% natural origin content.
Mibelle Biochemistry
515-480-1553
info@mibellegroupusa.com
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
GlowAGE
INCI: Ziziphus Spina-Christi Leaf Extract (and) Trehalose (and) Aqua / Water
Applications: Anti-aging intensive treatment, Age defense serum, Collagen-restoring cream for mature skin, Skin brightening concentrate, Skin tone corrector
Use Level: 2%
Attributes: GlowAGE is based on the extract of the leaves of Ziziphus spina-christi. It prevents and reduces glycation in the skin for a rejuvenated and radiant appearance.
SantEnergy
INCI: Bioflavonoids (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua / Water
Applications: Hair protection, Anti-hair loss treatments for both women and men, Anti-aging for hair, Anti-pollution for hair, Sun care for hair
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: SantEnergy is a distinctive polyphenol-rich extract sustainably obtained from the aerial parts of the plant Yerba Santa. It optimally delays aging of hair follicles and increases both hair growth and hair density.
Micro Powders Inc.
Tarrytown, NY
914-793-4058
mpi@micropowders.com
MPIpersonalcare.com
Ecosoft 627S
INCI: Polylactic Acid
Applications: All skin care and color cosmetic applications
Attributes: Ecosoft 627S is a spherical ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polylactic acid (PLA) that provides high lubricity and slip. It is designed to be an effective alternative for PMMA, PTFE and Nylon-12 and has similar sensory aesthetics as silicones but is naturally-derived. Recommended use level is 1-5%.
Biosoft 915
INCI: Polyhydroxybutyrate
Applications: All skin care, sun care and color cosmetic applications
Attributes: Biosoft 915 is a spheroidal ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) that provides natural oil absorbance and mattifying properties. Added benefits are its biodegradablity in fresh and salt water, and ability to help boost SPF. Recommended use level is 1-5%.
Ecosoft 627S
INCI: Polylactic Acid
Applications: All skin care and color cosmetic applications
Use Level: 1-5%
Attributes: Ecosoft 627S is a spherical ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polylactic acid (PLA) that provides high lubricity and slip. It is designed to be an effective alternative for PMMA, PTFE and Nylon-12 and has similar sensory aesthetics as silicones but is naturally-derived.
Biosoft 915
INCI: Polyhydroxybutyrate
Applications: All skin care, sun care and color cosmetic applications
Attributes: Biosoft 915 is a spheroidal ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) that provides natural oil absorbance and mattifying properties. Added benefits are its biodegradablity in fresh and salt water, and ability to help boost SPF. Recommended use level is 1-5%.
Naturebead Yellow C20
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
Applications: Cleansing lotions, creams, and gels for face and body care
Use Level: 0.5-5.0%.
Attributes: Naturebead Yellow C20 is a spherical exfoliating bead derived from carnauba wax that has a natural golden yellow coloration provided by the carnauba itself, without added pigments. The size and pleasing color provide gentle exfoliation with an attractive visual cue.
PROVITAL
Spain
93 719 23 50
marketing@weareprovital.com
www.weareprovital.com
Apibreeze
INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Mel, Lactobionic Acid
Applications: moisturizing, desquamation, luminosity, dark spots, dilated pores, acne and blackheads, dandruff, anti-oxidants, anti-pollution, ingrown hairs, healing, anti-wrinkle, photoaging, premature aging, glow.
Use Level: Hydration: 5-10% Exfoliation: 20%
Attributes: Apibreeze is an ingredient 100% natural origin and Cosmos compliant, that offers a mild renewal with biotechnological polyhydroxy acids and ethically sourced honey. The glow of a new skin emerges naturally, whatever the skin type, season, or time of day.
Schülke inc.
Fairfield, NJ
888-267-4220
973-770-7300
saius@schuelke.com
www.schulke-us.com/
effisin LA natural
INCI: Levulinic Acid Water
Applications: Leave-on, Rinse-off, Wet wipes, Sensitive, Natural
Use Level: Leave-on—max 1.0%; Rinse-off— max 1.0%
Attributes: effisin LA natural is EcoCert verified and Cosmos approved. It is effective protection against bacterial contamination. Sourced from non-GMO corn, it can be used in a wide variety of personal care products. Multifunctional cosmetic ingredient. Suitable for natural cosmetics. Good bactericidal efficacy in water-based products, Masking properties, Ready-to-process liquid, Biodegradable. pH-value of end product: < 5.5. Maximum manufacturing temperature: 80°C. Shelf life: 2 years
euxyl ECO 910
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil Tocopherol
Applications: Leave-on, Rinse-off, Wet wipes, Catural
Use Level: Leave-on–max .5-1.0%. Rinse-off—max 0.5-1.0%.
Attrbutes: euxyl ECO 910 is EcoCert verified and Cosmos approved. It is perfect for certified-natural cosmetics and effective in anionic, cationic and nonionic systems. Its fresh, citrus scent is a bonus for leave-on and rinse-off applications. Preservative blend with strong broad-spectrum efficacy. Suitable for certified-natural cosmetics. Fully effective in anionic, cationic and nonionic systems. Fresh and invigorating smell. Efficient up to neutral pH in leave-on and rinse-off application. pH-range: up to 8. Biodegradable
SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD.
Osaka, Japan
+8172-987-2626
sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
https://seiwakasei.jp/en/
Amitose MGA
INCI: Myristyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate (and) Butylene Glycol
Applications: Skin cream, skin essence, skin toner and eye cream
Use Level: 0.5-3.0%
Attributes: Amitose MGA, “Pore Shot Vitamin C,” is a novel, stable vitamin C derivative produced by binding vitamin C (ascorbic acid), glycerin and an alkyl group. It reduced pore area by 24% due to its antibacterial activity against C.acne, lipase inhibitory effect and 5α-reductase inhibitory efficacy.
Promois WR-SP
INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Applications: Skin cream, moisturizer, skin serum and skin toner
Use Level: 0.3-1.0%
Attributes: Promois WR-SP is a 100% pure hydrolyzed rice protein with the ability to enhance collagen production and inhibit melanin production. Rice is attracted attention around the world as health food. In Japan, rice has been cultivated for over 2000 years and contributes to Japanese health and beauty.
Silab
France
+33 (0)5 55 84 58 40
silab@silab.fr
www.silab.fr
Acnesium
INCI: Maltodextrin & Punica granatum Pericarp Extract
Applications: Recommended in dermo-cosmetic care intended for acneic skin
Use Level: 0.05% - 0.5%
Attributes: Acnesium is a natural active ingredient, in preservative-free powder, developed to attenuate the clinical signs of slight to moderate acne in adults. Tested under dermatological control, it improves the skin’s general aspect and thus patients’ quality of life.
Erisium
INCI: Oryza sativa (Rice) Extract
Applications: recommended in all care products for mature skin
Use Level: 0.5% - 2.5%
Attributes: Erisium is a natural anti-aging active ingredient based on three innovation drivers: bio-inspiration, concept and data science. Obtained from rice co-products, it maintains protein balance at the heart of cutaneous cells (or cell proteostasis) for an anti-wrinkle and radiance boosting effect.
Glyco-Repair
INCI: Ceratonia siliqua (Carob) Fruit Extract
Applications: recommended in all repairing care products
Use Level: 1% - 3%
Attributes: Glyco-Repair is a natural repairing active ingredient obtained from locust bean gum. It regenerates the endogenous processes of skin repair with a double action on the epidermis and dermis for a pro-regenerating, anti-wrinkle and smoothing effect.
SNF
Riceboro, GA
912-884-3366
flocare@snf.com
www.personalcare.snf.com
Flocare SK 410
INCI: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Applications: O/W emulsions (milk, lotion), Cream gels
Use Level: 0.5 – 2.0 %
Attributes: Flocare SK 410 provides clear, viscous cold process formulations and is the best solution for both transparency and high viscosity at low concentration. This pre-neutralized polymer can boost viscosity and gives an outstanding soft after-feel.
Flocare SK 425
INCI: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Applications: Clear aqueous gels, facial cleansers, and emulsion formulations
Use Level: 1.0 – 3.0 %
Attributes: Flocare SK 425 offers clear, viscous cold process formulations and perfect stability with high concentration of electrolytes in skin care products. It is compatible with surfactant systems up to 5% for usage in facial cleansing and provides an outstanding soft after-feel.
Wacker Chemical Corporation
Adrian, MI
888 922 5374
INFO.USA@wacker.com
www.wacker.com
Belsil PF 100
INCI: Lauryl Phenylisopropyl Methicone
Applications: Lotions, creams, facial masks, sunscreens
Use Level: 1-15%
Attributes: Provides spreadability, a silky feel, and anti-tack properties to formulations. Additionally, the high refractive index of the product gives skin a natural looking glow.
To get your products listed here, contact Tom Branna, editorial director, tbranna@rodmanmedia.com
According to The NPD Group, prestige skin care sales, which fell by 11% in 2020, fared better than the prestige beauty market overall (which reported a decline of 19%). Pockets of growth came from body creams/lotions, exfoliators, cleansers, serums and devices. Still, it wasn’t nearly enough to compensate for the declines across the largest areas of the skin care market, namely face cream, face serum and eye treatments.
During the pandemic, consumers had access to supermarkets and box retailers such as Target, unlike beauty counters inside department stores and outlets like Blue Mercury, Ulta and Sephora, which were temporarily shuttered during stay-at-home orders. In mass, skin care sales rose 1.8% for the 52 weeks ended March 21, 2021, according to Information Resources, Inc.
Moisturizers were the stars of the sector, posting 12.8% growth and hand and body lotion sales rose a healthy 4.9%. Facial cleansers also posted a modest rise (see chart).
For isolated consumers, self-care became essential in 2020. Therefore, winners in the beauty market were those that helped to create a spa environment at home or helped achieve a beauty maintenance task that was outsourced pre-pandemic (think waxing). New habits like mask-wearing led to new areas of concern for the general population, evidenced by the rise of “maskne” as a Google search term in August 2020. Successful beauty brands addressed the issue with product launches and outreach on social media.
In fact, during the past year, successful skin care brands migrated to social platforms in order to reach customers. They bolstered their websites and online stores to mimic in-store experiences.
According to beauty tech expert Perfect Corp, its Skin Score AI skin diagnostic technology—which provides a skin health diagnostic in seconds—saw greater adoption among consumers during the pandemic. In the US, there was an 11% increase in Skin Score engagement from February to March 2020—the start of the pandemic. The highest Skin Score engagement months were March, April, May and June, coinciding with the strictest lockdowns and stay-at-home orders.
Incorporating the technology is paying off for Marianna Naturals, a plant-based skin care marketer based in Montreal. The Perfect Corp technology uses 106-point real-time facial landmarks, AI-trained 3D facial recognition and deep learning technology for a hyper-realistic virtual skin diagnostic experience through a mobile device. Once the user’s face is scanned by the camera, she receives product recommendations based on skin health results. After selecting a recommended product, users navigate to check-out for a one-tap purchase experience. According to Perfect Corp., since launching the skin diagnostics tool in January 2021, the brand’s website traffic jumped 300% and dwell time soared 330%. Most importantly, sales increased 30%, according to Perfect Corp.
Healthier Skin for All
Engaging with consumers no matter where they are, or who they are, will be critical to revive the market. Like many other CPG categories, skin care product consumers change their habits around all types of goods and services as they change their daily routine. For example, the overall move toward wellness (see article on p. 42), is shifting the focus of skin care toward skin health.
Promoting skin health is familiar territory for brands such as Neutrogena. More recently, the Johnson & Johnson-owned brand announced a long-term commitment to its legacy in skin care science and health advocacy to advance skin health for all through a new platform called “For People With Skin.”
Under this new mission, Neutrogena says it is taking action to overcome skin health barriers, including the 130 million Americans who are impacted by skin health disparities due to socioeconomic status, race and ethnicity, and access to healthcare.
According to the Neutrogena Skin Health in America Survey, 62% of Americans, ages 18 and over, recently experienced a situation where they were unable to access the skin care or medical expertise needed to help with a skin issue. Moreover, US adults earning less than $25,000 a year are 1.7 times less likely to have ever visited a dermatologist, according to research conducted by Neutrogena.
For its part, Neutrogena will offer the “knowledge, tools and science-backed solutions” to help all people achieve their best skin ever, no matter their skin issues, skin color, skin type or age, according to Kerry Sullivan, general manager, Neutrogena.
In a phone interview with Happi, Sullivan emphasized Neutrogena’s long-history in advancing skin science and its leadership position in the mass market skin care category as a foundation from where the brand will build.
“We are the No. 1 brand in skin care in US, and we must constantly live up to that,” Sullivan told Happi.
Through this multi-faceted plan, the brand says it is committed to continuing to take action to address barriers that stand in the way of skin health by investing in four core pillars: advocacy, education, expertise and transparency. Through that lens, Neutrogena says it will ensure equitable and accessible skin care products for all consumers using an inclusive approach to identify key insights that drive meaningful product innovations and relevant claims in products that are safe for all consumers across the full Fitzpatrick scale of skin tones.
Further, the brand will expand its existing partnership with Johnson & Johnson Innovation’s Black Innovators in Skin Health QuickFire Challenge, which awards a grant winner up to $50,000 to continue her work to advance science for products dedicated to skin of color. Areas of interest in this year’s challenge include acne and post-acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, scalp care and sun protection. The grant winner is expected to be announced sometime this month.
Neutrogena said it will leverage R&D, scientist, and dermatologist expertise to make the best skin science, products and solutions accessible and inclusive. To start, the brand is launching the Self-Exam Beautifully guide, an interactive microsite that represents a wide range of skin tones and types designed to make self-exams more inclusive and engaging for the purpose of early detection of skin cancers.
Another new component is Neutrogena Studios, which will provide a medium to tell compelling stories that educate consumers about the science behind skin health, celebrate healthy skin for all, and inspire people to action, according to the brand. “In the Sun,” the first film produced by the studio, follows the skin health journeys of seven families facing extraordinary circumstances. The film’s executive producer is Kerry Washington, a long-time Neutrogena ambassador and Emmy Award-winning actress.
Pared Down Approach to Skin Care
According to Neutrogena’s research, consumers feel they lack the expertise on how best to take care of their own skin needs. Couple that with the fact that 73% of Americans claim there are too many skin care options to choose from, and it’s easy to see how the average shopper might feel overwhelmed.
Today’s consumers are simplifying their lifestyles, and for many that can mean paring down their daily skin care regimen and seeking products with shorter ingredient lists.
You can’t get much more compact than Ingredients, a new brand developed by The Art of Shaving Co-Founders Myriam and Eric Malka. The brand lists every ingredient, including its exact formulation percentage, on the front of each product.
The Malkas sold the Art of Shaving in 2009, but their love of product development and formulation and a desire to build cleaner products, lured them back into skin care.
“We know how difficult it is to create a competitive brand in this industry,” Eric Malka told Happi.
Ingredients is all about, well, the ingredients.
“Not enough focus is placed on what’s inside the bottle,” said Eric Malka.
But that’s not the case at Ingredients; formulation falls under the purview of Myriam Malka.
According to the Malkas, the collection contains only essential ingredients to maintain healthy skin—namely plant water, essential fatty acids, plant extracts, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, probiotics and essential oils. The formulations are free from petrochemicals, synthetic preservatives and water dilution.
Further, Ingredients says its formulas are “deconstructed” and use minimally processed, 100% active plant-based ingredients to create separate plant water- and oil-based formulas, which eliminates the need for stabilizing and binding chemicals such as emulsifiers, texture enhancers, fillers and solubilizers.
“Every decision we make has wellness in mind,” said Myriam Malka.
Return To Sender
Another newcomer to the skin care scene is Ace of Air, a B Corp-certified clean beauty and wellness brand. According to the founders— who include seasoned beauty executive Stephanie Stahl, supermodel Petra Nemcova and David Knowlton of Three Ocean Partners—the range is billed as first and only beauty and wellness brand designed to be entirely circular and fully zero-waste.
According to Stahl, a former Revlon c-suite leader who serves as CEO, the goal was to create an uplifting, inclusive brand for women and men designed to have a positive impact on people and planet with powerfully nourishing skin care and supplement products.
The Leaping Bunny Certified range includes topical products such as Illuminate Me Halo Moisturizer (which contains moringa) and Restore Me Space Age Serum (featuring honokiol) as well as Restore Mega Me Vegan Omega Complex Supplement, billed as broad spectrum super-omega concentrate derived from a combination of patented phytonutrient-rich fruits and vegetables that help boost long-term body, brain, eye and skin health.
Ace of Air’s products are priced between $35-$85, and come in packaging that is designed to be re-used up to 100 times as part of the brand’s “buy the product, borrow the package” model. With their order, consumers are sent a “boomerang box” that is sent back to the company with empties, where a “proprietary, environmentally conscious” cleaning process sterilizes the packaging. Ace of Air has also partnered with UPS to incorporate carbon-neutral shipping.
“Consumers buy products, they don’t buy sustainability,” insists Stahl.
At The Core
As this issue headed to press came another novel launch from Dr. Robb Akridge, the co-founder of Clarisonic. His new venture, Opulus Beauty Labs, developed an appliance and accompanying finished formula in an anhydrous format that allows his brand to combine ingredients that are typically harder to formulate together.
“There are a lot of good actives out there, but they have some challenges,” noted Akridge.
The concentrated treatments are not diluted with water, highly stable and low in preservatives, according to the company, which operates out of the Pacific Northwest where Akridge lives. He is formulating onsite with a start-up team of 12; there’s no contract manufacturer involved, he told beauty editors during a Zoom event last month.
Opulus Beauty Labs offers a Retinol+ Ramp-Up Night Cream Regimen that comes in three different levels of increasing retinol concentrations (0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%). The retinol is nestled inside the core, and the formulation also contains ceramide III and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
For dermatologist Marnie Nussbaum, MD, a main benefit is the product’s ability to deliver an exact percentage of retinol in a “one-and-done” nighttime treatment that eliminates the need for layering products.
Opulus Beauty Labs also offers RHR Overnight Mask, a richly textured no-rinse mask that features allantoin, another material that Akridge described as a “typically fussy.” While allantoin is at its best at a 2% concentration, traditional skin care products often contain less than half that, he said. With his patent-pending coat and core format, there is a full 2% allantoin in each RHR mask.
The thermal blending process heats the product which aids absorption, said Akridge.
NPD Starts Here…
From mass market leaders making a commitment to serve more consumers to luxury startups with unique formula formats, the skin care launchpad has busy so far in 2021—and it shows no signs of slowing. (For a rundown of new skin launches out this season, see Happi.com.)
But enough about your competitors! To find a new ingredient that propels your next big launch, see our new skin care ingredients directory.
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As part of its growing digital engagement strategy to reach young consumers where they are discovering new beauty products, Clinique has launched a new TikTok campaign called #ZitHappens. The campaign celebrates what Clinique is calling the skin positivity movement of consumers, and more specifically, Gen Z, who no longer want to feel ashamed or put their life on hold because of breakouts. The brand has created a custom track for TikTokers to use, outlining the three-step system, accompanied by fun choreography and final end transformation results. “Consumers today, especially GenZ, want to see themselves in campaigns. Our ZitHappens campaign for acne solutions was driven by the consumer insight that young women no longer want to feel ashamed or held back by acne – they want to treat it with an efficacious product and then get on with their life! They embrace authenticity – right down to the fact that sometimes you get a zit, and that’s okay, not something you need to hide,” said Michelle Freyre, SVP global general manager, Clinique. According to Freyre, TikTok is the perfect platform to let young creators tell their story, celebrate their skin and inspire their followers to do the same. “A hashtag challenge is how these young women want to interact on the platform and #ZitHappens captures the language they use in a cheeky way that isn’t overly complicated. This generation is not interested in impossible standards of beauty, they want to see people their own age as part of the campaign and we, at Clinique, are thrilled to celebrate this skin positivity movement,” she said. In addition to TikTok, the #ZitHappens campaign is being rolled out on Snapchat and HerCampus. |
New Skin Care Ingredients
Below is a list of new ingredients for skin care products, introduced by industry suppliers. For more information on the materials listed, please contact the companies directly using the information provided.
BASF Care Creations, North America
Florham Park, NJ, USA
BeautyCare-NA@basf.com
https://CareCreations.BASF.com
Mimiskin
INCI: Myristyl Myristate (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Applications: Face cream, face serum, face mist, face mask, Face primer, lip treatment, lip serum, body lotion, body mist
Attributes: A biodegradable film-forming patented technology based on lipid particles, which serves as a polymer alternative. Allows for skin breathability, while providing a barrier to add a layer of protection. The breathability links this to use in sensitive skin applications.
PeptAIde 4.0
INCI: Water (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Offers a safe and nature-based solution for hair and skin damage caused by silent inflammation. Four natural, multifunctional rice peptides discovered through Artificial Intelligence. Scientifically proven to help prevent dry skin, relieve loss of firmness, while soothing sensitive scalp prone to flakes.
Phytofirm Biotic
INCI: Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: A soybean extract bio-fermented by the Lactobacillus plantarum strain rich in peptides and lactic acid, with skin firming and elasticity benefits demonstrated in a clinical study. Offers an effective alternative to soy protein hydrolysate when making probiotic skin care products.
Biosil Technologies
Allendale, NJ
201-825-8800
Philip@biosiltech.com
www.biosiltech.com
Ocea Health
INCI: Water, Padina Pavonica Thallus extract, Bio-propanediol
Applications: Anti-Age
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Ocea Health is the first defensome enhancer tested on over 3300 genes. It delivers systemic protection and skin regeneration. Ocea Health strengthens the skin’s natural defensomes with improvements in: epidermal integrity, cell resilience, immune protection, inflammation and wound healing.
Scutaline
INCI: Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Applications: Anti-Age
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Scutaline prevents the formation and spread of senescent cells (zombie cells) and combats “Inflamm’aging” (Chronic inflammation). It protects against the degradation of the extracellular matrix, improves moisturization and targets overwhelmed skin.
BotanicalsPlus
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1417
info@botanicalsplus.com
www.botanicalsplus.com
BP—Triluronic Acid
INCI: Water (and) Sodium Hyaluronate
Applications: applicable across all leave on and rinse off
Use Level: 1-3%
Attributes: A combination of three different molecular weight fractions of natural HA produced through fermentation. In-vitro studies have showcased its efficacy in supporting the formation and overall health of the skin barrier. Available in liquid, powder and anhydrous varieties.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
+49 30 8510260
info@clr-berlin.com
www.clr-berlin.com
CutiBiome CLR
INCI: Octyldodecanol, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Piper Nigrum Seed Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Applications: Skin care
Use Level: 1.5-3.0%
Attributes: Has strong benefits for oily and acne prone skin, as well as sensitive and dandruff scalp. New studies have shown, that, both on facial skin and the scalp, it effectively supports the skin microbiome in recovering a healthy composition.
Corum
Taiwan
+886-2-8751-6060
marketing.support@corum.com.tw
Azeclair P
INCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Applkications: Oil control, Anti-acne, skin clarifying products including cleaners, clear solutions, gels, gel-emulsions and O/W emulsions.
Use Level: 0.5-5%
Attributes: Azeclair P is a cosmetic active catered for oily and acne-prone skin with high efficacy in sebum normalizing, skin brightening, hydrating and anti-pollution. It comes in powder form and preservative free.
C-Pep Quintup
INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Applications: Anti-aging, anti-stretch mark, eye contour, lip care, firming and color cosmetics products including lotions, creams, serums and etc.
Use Level: 1-6%
Attributes: C-Pep Quintup is a synthetic lipopeptide, conjugating long chain fatty acid to improve skin penetration and skin affinity. It stimulates the production of type I and IV collagen and protects collagen degradation from UV radiation and stress hormone, which brings a long-term anti-aging effect.
DSM Personal Care
Parsippany, NJ
973-257-8222
Info.Pc-na@dsm.com
www.dsm.com/personal-care
Syn-Glow
INCI: Benzoyl Dipeptide-18 D-Phenylalanyl Arginyl D-Tryptophan Dipropylamide Mesylate
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Syn-Glow is the new glow-boosting skin peptide ingredient that works with the skin to bring out its natural healthy glow, all year round, as if you are just back from vacation!
Hya-Act M
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
Applications: Face and Body
Use Level: 0.01-1%
Attributes: Certified microbiome-friendly Hya-Act M enhances hydration after one hour. This medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid strengthens the skin’s barrier by building a superior protective film and gives a dewy look. Smaller molecular weights available, Hya-Aact XS and Hya-Act S
Alpaflor-Alp-Sebum CB ALPAFLOR -ALP-SEBUM CB
INCI: Epilobium Fleischeri / Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract
Applications: Face and Scalp
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Alpaflor-Alp-Sebum CB, DSM’s sustainable, organic prebiotic to reduce skin oiliness and balance the microbiome. Cosmos, Natrue organic certified and fair trade for Life. This bioactive ingredient is part of DSM’s Alpaflor Clean Beauty line.
Evonik
Essen, Germany
804-727-0700
EvonikPC@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personalcare
Rovisome Retinol Moist PRO
INCI: Water/Aqua; Pentylene Glycol; Lecithin; Alcohol; Retinol; Polysorbate 20; Potassium Phosphate; Tocopherol
Applications: Anti-Aging/Anti-Wrinkle Skin Care
Use Level: 1%-3%
Attributes: Rovisome Retinol Moist PRO is a stabilized vitamin A/Retinol that is encapsulated in an advanced delivery system able to enhance bioavailability and reduce skin irritation. This produce offers label-friendly solution that does not contain stabilizers BHA and BHT.
TEGO Natural Amaranth
INCI: Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil
Applications: Facial skin care emulsions, Body lotions
Use Level: 1%-10%
Attributes: TEGO Natural Amaranth is a natural oil rich in natural squalene and lipids that help provide a smooth skin feel as well as enhance skin elasticity and prevent photodamages.
Hyacare Tremella
INCI: Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp extract
Applications: Anti-aging skin care
Use Level: 0.01% - 0.2%
Attributes: Hyacare Tremella is a natural hyaluronic acid mimetic with proven moisturization and exceptional water retention properties. It is derived from a mushroom extract.
Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
201-791-8700
salesmarketing@grantinc.com
www.grantinc.com
GRANSPERSE White/Red/Yellow/Black Pigment Dispersions
INCI: Black-CU-65: Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Yellow-CU-51: Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Red-CU-57: Iron Oxides (CI 77491), White-CU-65: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer
Applications: Tinted Lotions, Foundations, BB Creams, SPF Products.
Use Level: 1-25%
Attributes: A unique milled dispersion with an optimal ratio of powder, dispersant and fluid system. It permits better spreadability and has a light and moisturizing feel which you cannot find in any other dispersions in the market. Available in 4 colors, both treated and untreated.
Hallstar Beauty
Darien, IL
877-427-4255
BeautyCS@hallstar.com
www.hallstarbeauty.com
Biome Oléoactif
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (and) Avena Sativa Kernel Oil (and) Bacillus Ferment
Applications: [Skin-Microbiome] care, microbiome-friendly care, post-prebiotic care, skin barrier strengthener, beauty enhancer, prevention of imbalanced skin condition. Men and women care. Suitable for all types of skin. Cleansing products, oily serums, primers, color cosmetics.
Use Level: 0.5% - 5%
Attributes: First microbiome-friendly active ingredient enriched with bacterial fatty acids.100% natural oil-based postbiotic extract with prebiotic effect. Balances skin microbiota. Maintains epidermal barrier integrity. Can be combined various ingredients to create a holistic system that promotes healthy, youthful, beautiful skin.
Olivem 2090
INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate
Applications: Skin care, sun care, baby care, color cosmetics, silver beauty/positive ageing.
Use Level: 3-5%
Attributes: Natural-derived, cold-process, biomimetic W/O emulsifier. Contributes light sensoriality and hydration benefits. Creates a homogeneous layer that surrounds water droplets, enabling high stability. Improves the wettability of TiO2 and ZnO. Perfectly emulsifies all organic sun filters. Excellent powder wetting and dispersing properties.
Blush Oléoactif
INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil (and) Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf Extract
Applications: Skin care for sensitive and reactive skin, positive aging, urban skin care (antioxidant, skin barrier protection); face serum, beauty mask, makeup, anhydrous formula, natural and organic product, rosy shades
Use Level: 1% - 5%
Attributes: 100% natural liposoluble active inspired by the ancestral use of the indigo-plant. Quantifiable benefits vs. placebo. Enhances skin condition as well as consumers’ self-perception and emotional state. Protects skin barrier. Visibly reduces redness. Promotes skin luminosity.
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, NC
704-633-8028
personalcare@innospecinc.com
www.innospec.com
Pureact I-78P
INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Use Levels: 1-5% in liquid and 2-60% in syndet bars
Attributes: Pureact I-78P is a mild, sulfate-free surfactant used in personal care cleansing products. This unique, powdered surfactant is derived from coconut and considered readily biodegradable. It produces dense lather that contributes to overall foam stability of finished formulations.
Pureact 138
INCI: Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Use Level: As a primary surfactant - 20 to 40% and as a secondary surfactant - 2 to15%
Attributes: A natural, mild surfactant combination comprised of decyl glucoside and sodium lauroyl lactylate. This optimized blend is easy to use, requiring no heat during mixing and provides exceptional foaming in finished formulations. Both components are derived from natural, readily renewable resources.
Specsil k-71
INCI: Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Use Level: 1-15%
Attribibutes: Specsil k-71 is a 100% silicone MQ resin. It is soluble in several different silicone fluids (low viscosity dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane) and organic fluids up to concentrations of 50% or more. This silicone resin provides superior wash-off resistance in a variety of cosmetic applications.
Jeen International Corp.
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1401
info@jeen.com
www.jeen.com
Oleosil LC
INCI: C9-12 Alkane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3
Applications: applicable across all leave on and rinse off
Use Levels: 0.5 – >90%
Attributes: A 90% naturally derived silicone elastomer gel that serves as a safer and more biodegradable option than traditional silicones. Adds smoothness, slip, non-greasy lubrication, and enhanced softness to skin care formulations. RSPO certified. ISO 16128 Natural Origin Index >0.9
Lincoln MFG-USA
North Kingstown, RI
401-599-7011
PatLutz@LincolnMFG-USA.com
www.LincolnMFG-USA.com
HydroGuard H-20
INCI: Propanediol (All Natural)/ Hydroxyacetophenone (Nature-Identical)
Use levels: 1.0 – 2.0%
Applications: Skin care and all personal care products
Attributes: Multifunctional formulation protectant against biodegradation with moisturizer, humectant and emollient properties. Excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.
NuSolutions 1% HYA
INCI: Hyaluronic acid (1%) in water
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Skin care and all personal care products
Attributes: 1% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in water. Preserved with patented Linatural MBS-1. Excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.
NuSolutions EZ-Guar
INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Skin care and all personal care products
Attributes: EZ-Guar is a 2% Guar in water for ease of use and preserved with Patented Linatural MBS-1. Two versions – C14, which is ideal for shampoo and body washes and C17, which is ideal for deep conditioning. Excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.
LipoTrue Inc
New Brunswick, NJ
(732) 839-2761
info@lipotrue.com
https://lipotrue.com/
iPeptide
INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Applications: eye care, fatigue features, lack of sleep, eyebags, darks circles, melatonin-like protection, rested look, eye awakening
Use Level: 1-3%
Attributes Several factors affect our sleep quality. Insufficient sleep visually translates in a tired and unhealthy look with hanging eyelids, swollen eyes and dark circles. What if we could biohack chronic bad sleep? iPeptide is your next generation eye peptide tackling tired features cause by sleep deprivation.
Silstem-U
INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Applications: Body care, body positive, slimming, self-esteem, “orange peel” skin, cellulite, your shape
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Green active ingredient that mimics the action of cold exposure or exercise conditions, in acting directly on naturally innervated adipose tissue. Silstem-U enhances the release of NRG4, an adipokine which activates lipolytic functions and improves adipose tissue innervation to induce a slimming effect and reduction of cellulite.
Col-Frag remastered
INCI: Collagen Amino Acids
Applications: Collagen booster, lifting, brightness, reshaping face contour, wrinkle improvement, collagen builder, remastering collagen
Use Level: 1-3%
Attributes: Col-Frag remastered is a plant-based fragment of human type I collagen transiently expressed through the Wild plants as biofactories technology. A remastered concept of classical collagen that never fails meeting the cosmetic market needs for a sustainable, animal friendly, and with a high efficacy active ingredient.
Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
800-379-5389
personalcare@lubrizol.com
www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster
INCI: Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (and) Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
CFDA compliant
Applications: Increases SPF in cosmetic and skin care products
Use Level: 3-5wt% (100% TS)
Attributes: Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster is a naturally-derived technology that increases SPF and is compatible with both organic and inorganic sunscreen actives. It is non-nano, inherently biodegradable and non-persistent in the environment meaning you’re now able to reduce the quantity of UV filters.
Argireline Amplified peptide solution
INCI: Water (Aqua), Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Benzoate
Applications: Anti-aging
Use Level: 2-5%
Attributes: A multifunctional ingredient visibly transforming tired, dull, aging skin into a glowing, youthful complexion. Developed according to the principles of green chemistry, the hexapeptide is an evolution of Argireline peptide with superior activity and added post-expression relaxation and anti-aging effects.
Uniclay biotech ingredient
INCI: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Bacillus Ferment
Applications: Clay skin care treatments
Use Level: 2-3%
Attributes: Fermentation-based extract mimicking the effects of clay on the skin; offers cleaner, smoother and more beautiful skin for all ethnicities and improved sense of well-being. It has 100% natural origin content.
Mibelle Biochemistry
515-480-1553
info@mibellegroupusa.com
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
GlowAGE
INCI: Ziziphus Spina-Christi Leaf Extract (and) Trehalose (and) Aqua / Water
Applications: Anti-aging intensive treatment, Age defense serum, Collagen-restoring cream for mature skin, Skin brightening concentrate, Skin tone corrector
Use Level: 2%
Attributes: GlowAGE is based on the extract of the leaves of Ziziphus spina-christi. It prevents and reduces glycation in the skin for a rejuvenated and radiant appearance.
SantEnergy
INCI: Bioflavonoids (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua / Water
Applications: Hair protection, Anti-hair loss treatments for both women and men, Anti-aging for hair, Anti-pollution for hair, Sun care for hair
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: SantEnergy is a distinctive polyphenol-rich extract sustainably obtained from the aerial parts of the plant Yerba Santa. It optimally delays aging of hair follicles and increases both hair growth and hair density.
Micro Powders Inc.
Tarrytown, NY
914-793-4058
mpi@micropowders.com
MPIpersonalcare.com
Ecosoft 627S
INCI: Polylactic Acid
Applications: All skin care and color cosmetic applications
Attributes: Ecosoft 627S is a spherical ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polylactic acid (PLA) that provides high lubricity and slip. It is designed to be an effective alternative for PMMA, PTFE and Nylon-12 and has similar sensory aesthetics as silicones but is naturally-derived. Recommended use level is 1-5%.
Biosoft 915
INCI: Polyhydroxybutyrate
Applications: All skin care, sun care and color cosmetic applications
Attributes: Biosoft 915 is a spheroidal ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) that provides natural oil absorbance and mattifying properties. Added benefits are its biodegradablity in fresh and salt water, and ability to help boost SPF. Recommended use level is 1-5%.
Ecosoft 627S
INCI: Polylactic Acid
Applications: All skin care and color cosmetic applications
Use Level: 1-5%
Attributes: Ecosoft 627S is a spherical ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polylactic acid (PLA) that provides high lubricity and slip. It is designed to be an effective alternative for PMMA, PTFE and Nylon-12 and has similar sensory aesthetics as silicones but is naturally-derived.
Biosoft 915
INCI: Polyhydroxybutyrate
Applications: All skin care, sun care and color cosmetic applications
Attributes: Biosoft 915 is a spheroidal ultrafine powder derived from the bio-ferment polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB) that provides natural oil absorbance and mattifying properties. Added benefits are its biodegradablity in fresh and salt water, and ability to help boost SPF. Recommended use level is 1-5%.
Naturebead Yellow C20
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
Applications: Cleansing lotions, creams, and gels for face and body care
Use Level: 0.5-5.0%.
Attributes: Naturebead Yellow C20 is a spherical exfoliating bead derived from carnauba wax that has a natural golden yellow coloration provided by the carnauba itself, without added pigments. The size and pleasing color provide gentle exfoliation with an attractive visual cue.
PROVITAL
Spain
93 719 23 50
marketing@weareprovital.com
www.weareprovital.com
Apibreeze
INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Mel, Lactobionic Acid
Applications: moisturizing, desquamation, luminosity, dark spots, dilated pores, acne and blackheads, dandruff, anti-oxidants, anti-pollution, ingrown hairs, healing, anti-wrinkle, photoaging, premature aging, glow.
Use Level: Hydration: 5-10% Exfoliation: 20%
Attributes: Apibreeze is an ingredient 100% natural origin and Cosmos compliant, that offers a mild renewal with biotechnological polyhydroxy acids and ethically sourced honey. The glow of a new skin emerges naturally, whatever the skin type, season, or time of day.
Schülke inc.
Fairfield, NJ
888-267-4220
973-770-7300
saius@schuelke.com
www.schulke-us.com/
effisin LA natural
INCI: Levulinic Acid Water
Applications: Leave-on, Rinse-off, Wet wipes, Sensitive, Natural
Use Level: Leave-on—max 1.0%; Rinse-off— max 1.0%
Attributes: effisin LA natural is EcoCert verified and Cosmos approved. It is effective protection against bacterial contamination. Sourced from non-GMO corn, it can be used in a wide variety of personal care products. Multifunctional cosmetic ingredient. Suitable for natural cosmetics. Good bactericidal efficacy in water-based products, Masking properties, Ready-to-process liquid, Biodegradable. pH-value of end product: < 5.5. Maximum manufacturing temperature: 80°C. Shelf life: 2 years
euxyl ECO 910
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil Tocopherol
Applications: Leave-on, Rinse-off, Wet wipes, Catural
Use Level: Leave-on–max .5-1.0%. Rinse-off—max 0.5-1.0%.
Attrbutes: euxyl ECO 910 is EcoCert verified and Cosmos approved. It is perfect for certified-natural cosmetics and effective in anionic, cationic and nonionic systems. Its fresh, citrus scent is a bonus for leave-on and rinse-off applications. Preservative blend with strong broad-spectrum efficacy. Suitable for certified-natural cosmetics. Fully effective in anionic, cationic and nonionic systems. Fresh and invigorating smell. Efficient up to neutral pH in leave-on and rinse-off application. pH-range: up to 8. Biodegradable
SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD.
Osaka, Japan
+8172-987-2626
sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
https://seiwakasei.jp/en/
Amitose MGA
INCI: Myristyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate (and) Butylene Glycol
Applications: Skin cream, skin essence, skin toner and eye cream
Use Level: 0.5-3.0%
Attributes: Amitose MGA, “Pore Shot Vitamin C,” is a novel, stable vitamin C derivative produced by binding vitamin C (ascorbic acid), glycerin and an alkyl group. It reduced pore area by 24% due to its antibacterial activity against C.acne, lipase inhibitory effect and 5α-reductase inhibitory efficacy.
Promois WR-SP
INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Applications: Skin cream, moisturizer, skin serum and skin toner
Use Level: 0.3-1.0%
Attributes: Promois WR-SP is a 100% pure hydrolyzed rice protein with the ability to enhance collagen production and inhibit melanin production. Rice is attracted attention around the world as health food. In Japan, rice has been cultivated for over 2000 years and contributes to Japanese health and beauty.
Silab
France
+33 (0)5 55 84 58 40
silab@silab.fr
www.silab.fr
Acnesium
INCI: Maltodextrin & Punica granatum Pericarp Extract
Applications: Recommended in dermo-cosmetic care intended for acneic skin
Use Level: 0.05% - 0.5%
Attributes: Acnesium is a natural active ingredient, in preservative-free powder, developed to attenuate the clinical signs of slight to moderate acne in adults. Tested under dermatological control, it improves the skin’s general aspect and thus patients’ quality of life.
Erisium
INCI: Oryza sativa (Rice) Extract
Applications: recommended in all care products for mature skin
Use Level: 0.5% - 2.5%
Attributes: Erisium is a natural anti-aging active ingredient based on three innovation drivers: bio-inspiration, concept and data science. Obtained from rice co-products, it maintains protein balance at the heart of cutaneous cells (or cell proteostasis) for an anti-wrinkle and radiance boosting effect.
Glyco-Repair
INCI: Ceratonia siliqua (Carob) Fruit Extract
Applications: recommended in all repairing care products
Use Level: 1% - 3%
Attributes: Glyco-Repair is a natural repairing active ingredient obtained from locust bean gum. It regenerates the endogenous processes of skin repair with a double action on the epidermis and dermis for a pro-regenerating, anti-wrinkle and smoothing effect.
SNF
Riceboro, GA
912-884-3366
flocare@snf.com
www.personalcare.snf.com
Flocare SK 410
INCI: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Applications: O/W emulsions (milk, lotion), Cream gels
Use Level: 0.5 – 2.0 %
Attributes: Flocare SK 410 provides clear, viscous cold process formulations and is the best solution for both transparency and high viscosity at low concentration. This pre-neutralized polymer can boost viscosity and gives an outstanding soft after-feel.
Flocare SK 425
INCI: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Applications: Clear aqueous gels, facial cleansers, and emulsion formulations
Use Level: 1.0 – 3.0 %
Attributes: Flocare SK 425 offers clear, viscous cold process formulations and perfect stability with high concentration of electrolytes in skin care products. It is compatible with surfactant systems up to 5% for usage in facial cleansing and provides an outstanding soft after-feel.
Wacker Chemical Corporation
Adrian, MI
888 922 5374
INFO.USA@wacker.com
www.wacker.com
Belsil PF 100
INCI: Lauryl Phenylisopropyl Methicone
Applications: Lotions, creams, facial masks, sunscreens
Use Level: 1-15%
Attributes: Provides spreadability, a silky feel, and anti-tack properties to formulations. Additionally, the high refractive index of the product gives skin a natural looking glow.
To get your products listed here, contact Tom Branna, editorial director, tbranna@rodmanmedia.com
