Just Hit Refresh

This year has been all about clean including advanced shampoo, conditioner and treatments for the scalp. A new ingredient list follows the article.


By: Melissa Meisel

Just Hit Refresh

Clean is critical when it comes to washing hands to eliminate germs. In fact, 2020 has taken cleanliness to a whole new level. It’s quality over quantity when it comes to shampoos, conditioners and other scalp cleansers as products have to preserve color and moisturize extra-dry ends for those who can’t visit the salon as much as in previous years.

According to Philip Pelusi, salon industry veteran and expert source for Happi.com, times have certainly changed when it comes to how often we cleanse our hair.

“We can go back just a couple decades to where ‘wash, rinse and repeat’ was an everyday mantra,” he told Happi. “Fast forward to 2020 where that routine has become passé’ and almost frowned upon. Today, cleansing hair less frequently practically gives one bragging rights. A time when clients and stylists alike compare notes on their shampooing routines as frequently as they discuss the latest hair trends.”

It's a dry idea. Waterless formulations continue to have their moment in the global hair care category.
Marketers are following suit when it comes to the creation of shampoos and conditioners for the season. Since self-care is also paramount right now for shoppers, new products feature premiere components and recyclable packaging to tap into the demand for global wellness.

“Our perspective is to think of hair as the finest garment one owns. Easy to do since our hair is the most important fabric we wear, so given that, it deserves the highest level of preservation,” added Pelusi.

While macro trends surrounding sustainability and wellness impact ingredient preferences, consumers still value safety and efficacy above all else, added Clare Hennigan, senior beauty analyst, Mintel, Chicago.

“Consumers are looking for natural and clean beauty products. This will mean something different to each shopper, from using naturally occurring ingredients, eliminating harmful ones, or not testing products on animals,” added Tiffany Hogan, principal analyst at Kantar, Columbus, Ohio.

By the Numbers

Professional hair product sales in June 2020 were 98% of the June YAG totals, according to the most recent findings from Kline Pro, Kline’s salon retail products and services database. In fact, shampoos and conditioners were ahead of last year at +6% and +12%, respectively. This is welcome news for an industry that nearly shut down from mid-March through most of May 2020.

Hair care products that provide color care benefits have always had the highest category share but that share climbed to 34.0% in the second quarter, peaking in April at 43.7%. Since most salon doors were shuttered at this time, ordering online and curbside pickup from salons became a lifeline, according to Kline Pro.

In prestige beauty, hair product sales rose by 11% to $232.5 million for the third quarter of 2020, with all areas of the category growing except for hair styling, according to The NPD Group. Hair masks, hair color and other hair care including primers and treatments were among the fastest-growing areas of the market. Year-to-date through September 2020, hair product sales as sold in prestige rose 4%, according to NPD Group. Shampoo sales generated $106.6 million and increased 10% during these months, while conditioner jumped 8% to $101.6 million. However, dry shampoo slipped 16% to $41.8 million.

“Hair continues to grow in this stormy year, with double-digit gains across most areas of the market,” said Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor, The NPD Group.

Shampoo sales rose 2.4% to $3.3 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 4, 2020. Conditioner sales climbed 7.1% to $2.4 billion.

Consumer Direction

The pandemic impacted people’s hair color and hair styles, as well as how people care for their hair at home. According to Emily Boulin, Sally Beauty SallyCrew ambassador and professional stylist, Baltimore MD, with social distancing the new norm in day-to-day life, consumers who regularly visited the salon are recreating their favorite salon hair treatments and services at home.

“As a professional stylist, I’ve received more questions than ever about scalp health and breakage remedies,” she told Happi. “As people continue to work from home and participate in fewere social activities, most are not washing their hair as often…although stylists recommend not washing your hair every day, not washing it enough results in natural oils, dirt, and product residue building up on the base of the hair which can lead to scalp irritation. To help with this issue, it’s important to invest in a sulfate-free shampoo.”

All signs point to the Internet when it comes to where shoppers are buying more these days.

“Sales in their traditional sense has changed during COVID,” Kevin Hughes, artistic director with Moroccanoil, Palm Springs, CA., told Happi. “It shifted to a majority of online sales but so many stylists put on their entrepreneur hat and set up ways to safely get shampoos, conditioners, and styling products to their clients. I think it helped so many because it gave a bit of normalcy during such a difficult time.”

Hughes added that consumers are craving shampoos and conditioners that will protect their investment, as in hair color or smoothing treatments.

“They need their hair color to last as long as possible while keeping it looking fresh and healthy. They are looking for hydration without weighing the hair down. They don’t want anything that will strip their color or make their hair feel dry,” he explained, adding that Moroccanoil just launched Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo that works miracles on keeping brassy tones out of hair.

Dr. Rocio Rivera, vice president and head of scientific communications at L’Oréal Paris, New York, agreed that color-treated hair continues to be a focus in terms of how to ensure the hue stays fresh and unaltered as long as possible.

“L’Oréal Paris’ Ever Collection continues to be a collection that consumers gravitate towards,” she told Happi. “The line contains no sulfates and is an affordable color protection option for shampoos, conditioners and treatments.”

New & Improved

Procter & Gamble updated its hair care portfolio with new and improved versions of staple shampoos and conditioners. For example, Herbal Essences is on a mission to bring plant power to every shower. This year, its six sulfate-free shampoos have a new look and the same performance, according to the company. That means tons of lather and fragrance, while still meeting the strict clean beauty standards of the Environmental Working Group (EWG).

How do you like them apples? Head & Shoulders is in on the cider vinegar craze.
Not all plants are created equal, so only the most powerful plants make it into Herbal Essences bottles, according to the brand. That’s why the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, one of the world’s leading authorities on plants, certified botanicals in the bio:renew lineup. In addition to Herbal Essence’s 90% naturally-derived formulas and signature scents, its bio:renew lineup has something for everyone with offerings for all hair types.

Consider Herbal Essences Birch Bark Extract Collection. This range is free from sulfates, colorants, parabens and mineral oil, and provides a gentle, yet effective cleanse to help moisturize hair. The collection features birch bark and sustainably harvested aloe with an aroma of dewy floral bouquet, aquatic/marine and a lingering scent of warm amber.

Meanwhile, the Herbal Essences Honey & Vitamin B Collection is PETA Cruelty-Free and is free from sulfates, colorants, parabens and mineral oil. The collection features honey and sustainably harvested aloe endorsed by Kew Gardens as well. It leaves hair shiny and hydrated with a comforting scent of honey, jasmine and creamy vanilla.

The pandemic didn’t stop the search for new sources of nutrients and new hair secrets from around the globe, as seen with its expanded Nutrient Blends collection. According to the company, Pantene Nutrient Blends Shampoo, Conditioner and Treatment collections are discovered and curated by Pantene’s global team of scientists to ensure hair gets all the nutrient-rich ingredients it needs—and nothing it doesn’t, with sulfate, silicone, paraben, dye and mineral oil-free formulas. Next month, Pantene adds Baobab Hydrating Glow and Pure Clean & Clarify.  Meanwhile, Head & Shoulders chemists are working with natural ingredients, like apple cider vinegar, to solve scalp concerns such as dandruff and buildup. Apple cider vinegar is known to be antifungal, a disinfectant, rich in minerals and acidic, which helps to bring the scalp back to a balanced state, according to P&G. Head & Shoulders Apple Cider Vinegar Collection is formulated with apple cider vinegar as well as active zinc pyrithione to target the scalp. The collection features three products that are said to work to remove impurities, excess oils and buildup on the scalp.

This month, Aveda launched an entirely new damage repair at-home and professional range. Botanical Repair is a collection that transforms hair using plant-powered technology that instantly strengthens and repairs hair through a combination of five different products, including a shampoo, conditioner, strengthening leave-in treatment and two hair masques.

According to the company, Aveda’s bond-building treatment makes hair “5x stronger in as few as 10 minutes.” It strengthens and repairs to dramatically reduce breakage, and helps protect hair during a color service, leaving hair stronger, visibly revived, shiny and full of life. The collection includes a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in treatment and two masques for both light and rich levels.

Natural Selection

Got greens? Fekkai’s new CBD Scalp Calming collection includes a shampoo, hydrating conditioner, hydrating mask and supreme oil formulated with a proprietary blend of non-THC broad-spectrum CBD from organically cultivated hemp extract grown in the US. According to the company, it helps soothe sensitized/stressed scalp, deeply hydrate hair for a clean and healthy glow, hydrate the body and provides calming nourishment.

Indie brand Hempz rolled out a CBD, Eucalyptus and Tea Tree Oil Haircare Collection, which includes herbal shampoo, conditioner, conditioning mist, a hair mask and scalp serum. The products in the collection are infused with 100% pure natural hemp seed oil, CBD and signature blends of eucalyptus and tea tree oils.

“The ideal balance of hydration, antioxidants, vitamins and key amino acids will transform your hair from dull and lifeless to healthy, calm and beautiful,” said Jennifer Weiderman, chief marketing officer for TSG Consumer Partners, which makes the Hempz collection, in a Zoom event with beauty editors this season.

The collection is THC-free, dye-free, gluten-free, paraben-free, cruelty-free and 100% vegan. The products are available at hempz.com, in Ulta stores and on ulta.com. It will expand nationally in 2021, according to Weiderman.

Zotos Professional, also part of Henkel, recently launched a CBD and hemp seed oil infused hair care brand called Wellphoria. The range contains a blend of 99% pure CBD at 50ppm and hemp seed oil.

John Paul Mitchell Systems’ (JPMS) new Paul Mitchell Clean Beauty is vegan and cruelty-free. Formulas contain ingredients such as argan oil, almond oil, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, amaranth extract, pea protein, olive and oat peptide and include shampoo, conditioner and leave-in treatment.

In the age of COVID-19 when everyone’s looking for new ways to sanitize and stay safe, BioSilk’s newest innovation is part of its existing Health + Beauty Division and features shampoo, conditioner, and a hair/body mist options to rid hair of grime and germs, while making it feel silky smooth. Farouk Systems Inc. is taking hair care to the next level by launching BioSilk Health + Beauty Antibacterial Hair Care Line.

After initially launching the Antibacterial Hand Soap and Antibacterial Lotion in August as part of BioSilk’s Health + Care division, the brand expanded its offerings to include Antibacterial Shampoo, Rescue Moisturizing Conditioner and Hair & Body Mist, as well as a Trio Kit. The Antibacterial Shampoo and Hair & Body Mist contain benzalkonium chloride (0.10%), an antimicrobial that’s said to rid hair of 99.9% of germs, while the Rescue Moisturizing Conditioner is packed with essential nutrients to soothe and seal in moisture for silky, smooth hair, said the company. This trio, infused with lavender and natural aloe vera, is designed to eliminate germs and bacteria while softening and replenishing tresses.

Kérastase has once again combined advanced technology with sensorial experience for an updated hair care system, Chronologiste, a collection that completely invigorates hair from scalp to tip. Targeting the dimensions of aging for both scalp and hair, each product features revitalizing actives including hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and abyssine from the sea.

The Pre-Cleanse Régénérant is a revitalizing pre-shampoo that deeply cleanses scalp and roots with charcoal, removing impurities, unclogging pores and toning the scalp for a balanced foundation. Meanwhile, the Huile de Parfum is a fragrant treatment that leaves hair nourished and radiant. Designed by master perfumer Alberto Morillas of Firmenich, the fragrance includes a crisp, citrusy top note, with floral notes of tea rose, peony and magnolia and a woody base. Along with restoring shine, the oil reduces breakage and provides added strength to the hair fiber.

Landing stateside this season from the UK is Lee Stafford. Its hair lengthening shampoo is billed as a growth-stimulating formula packed with moisture regulating proteins to feed and energize the scalp. According to the company, it stimulates the metabolic activity of the hair bulb cells and encourages blood flow to the root, helping to stimulate growth. Moisture-regulating proteins and wheat starch feed the scalp for softer, smoother and healthier hair. This gentle, revitalizing cleanser contains fresh apple and lemon extracts to add shine to hair while anti-oxidizing green tea extract helps to protect it from heat damage and breakage.

Chronologiste by Kerastase Paris revitalizes strands.
Meanwhile, Black woman-owned, clean luxury hair care brand Meraki launched Quartz Conditioner. According to the company, each Meraki product is activated with a gemstone, and this conditioner features clear quartz to “help provide balance mentally, emotionally and spiritually.” Meraki Quartz Conditioner delivers deep nourishment to hair strands along with the “elevated vibes of clear quartz crystals” and a fragrance of real gardenia flowers and lavender. With rich butters, precious oils and hair repair agents, this conditioner also offers high hydration levels. White willow bark balances the scalp while amla, ginseng, yerba mate and sage stimulate circulation, enhancing hair growth and strength, said the company.

For those plagued by greasy, clumpy, stiff, dry and dull locks, Bounce Curl’s Turmeric Hair Detox Mask is said to be an ultimate treatment to refresh and revitalize overwhelmed hair. Cleansers can easily remove style product residue and pollutants but can also be especially rough for those with curly hair. The Tumeric Hair Detox Mask cleanses, purifies and removes product buildup, according to the indie beauty brand. Key ingredients include organic apple cider vinegar, organic aloe barbadensis leaf juice, charcoal, turmeric, camellia sinesis, chamomile, biotin and vitamin B3. Also new at Bounce Curl is its Ayurvedic Deep Conditioner.

And don’t forget dry spray. Bravo Sierra, the wellness brand with a military heritage, introduced a climate-friendly Dry Shampoo that was field-tested and developed based on direct feedback from more than 1,000 active duty military members to ensure it meets the highest performance standard. Rather than using traditional hydrocarbon-based propellants, Bravo Sierra adopted a climate-safe propellant technology from the auto industry to eliminate VOCs within its aerosol makeup. The dry shampoo adds volume and texture, leaving hair looking and feeling thicker. It provides a cooling sensation when sprayed onto the scalp for a refreshing experience and does not leave a white cast so it can be used on all hair colors. Five percent of company revenue is donated to MWR programs, dedicated to improving the quality of life for vets and active duty military members and their families.

What’s Outside Counts, Too

John Frieda Hair Care recently launched packaging that uses 50% less plastic and reduces product waste. The tube-like-pouch (TLP) was developed and commercialized by Cincinnati-based Kao USA Inc. and has a structure that uses 50% less plastic than John Frieda’s current 8.45oz tube, and because the material is ultra-flexible, it allows every last drop of product to be squeezed out. The product range offered in TLP includes John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment shampoo and conditioner and Sheer Blonde Highlight Activating shampoo and conditioner. All are available exclusively for a limited time in select 200 Walmart stores and Walmart.com.

The new packaging at John Frieda follows in step with Kao’s Kirei Lifestyle Plan announced in 2019.

P&G Beauty has also unveiled its newest packaging move in the hair care sector that it says is designed to change the way consumers buy, use and dispose of their shampoo bottles. Next year, Head & Shoulders, Pantene, Herbal Essences and Aussie brands will launch a shampoo refill system in Europe with a new reusable 100% aluminum bottle and recyclable refill pouch, made using 60% less plastic (per ml versus standard brand bottle). The announcement was made during a live panel of sustainability experts at the Reuters Responsible Business Summit.

P&G Beauty says it is on track to reduce virgin plastic usage by 50% in shampoo and conditioner bottles by the end of 2021 when, through collective efforts to reduce, reuse and recycle, will result in 300 million fewer virgin plastic bottles being produced yearly.

JPMS is committed to making 10 of its 12 product lines vegan by 2023 and is rethinking its packaging, too.

The company is moving toward 75% post-consumer recycled plastic. It also pledges to plant one million trees by 2022 and remove single-dose plastic by 2023.

Coming Up Next

Elements of hygiene will enter the clean beauty conversation in hair care further down the line in 2021, noted industry experts.

“Consumers will be looking for products that are not only clean and sustainable, but also safe and protective,” noted Hogan of Kantar.

According to Rivera of L’Oréal Paris, repair continues to be a key trend in hair care. “It’s about being able to repair damaged hair from brushing, heating, harsh coloring or even just pollution and friction,” she said.

Looking ahead, Pelusi believes shampoos and conditioners will have an ingredient philosophy similar to the diligent health perspective people have now for what they put inside their bodies.

“The vitamin, powder mix supplement and food industries are, in a good way, overflowing with options for people to improve their health,” he told Happi. “We believe this mentality will, as it already has, overlap into consumer demand for new ways to improve their health via their hair and scalp.”

This inspired Pelusi to create his proprietary Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi Hair Immunity Complex, a composition of pre- and probiotic enzymes and fermented sea kelp.

“We approach the need for good bacteria to maintain a healthy scalp the same way digestive pre and probiotics do for the gut,” he said. “Healthy hair comes from a healthy scalp which requires the right balance of good bacteria. So, the formulation of shampoos and conditioners will be based on a meticulous approach to health as opposed to cosmetic appearance.” 

New Ingredients for Hair Care
Here are new hair care ingredients launched by suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more, contact the supplier directly using the information listed.

Biosil Technologies
Allendale, NJ
Tel: 201-825-8800
Email: Bioinfo@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com

INCI: Kappaphycus alvarezii extract
Applications: Hair care
Suggested Use Levels: 2.0%
Attributes: Caphira is a natural protector of the hair follicle, fiber and scalp. Caphira prevents hair loss, stimulates follicle metabolism, reinforces the hair fiber and protects it against dryness and chlorine stress, restores and enhances shine, and improves scalp health.

Botanicals Plus
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@BotanicalsPlus.com
Website: www.botanicalsplus.com

INCI: Olea Europaea (olive) fruit extract (and) Maltodextrin
Applications: Hair care, skin care, personal care, leave-on, rinse-off
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1%
Attributes: By-product of Sicilian olive oil production, Olea-HT is a naturally-derived powder extract that offers thermal, UV, blue-light, pollution and environmental protection to the hair shaft and cuticle as proven by Ex-Vivo testing. It’s antioxidant power significantly surpasses that of vitamin C and most other fruits/botanicals. Cocsmos- and Ecocert-certified. Preservative-free. Vegan.

Brenntag North America
HQ Reading, PA
Tel: 800-915-0027
Email: contactus@brenntag.com
Website: www.brenntagpersonalcare.com

Marine Hydrolyzed Collagen A
INCI: Water (and) hydrolyzed collagen
Applications: Hair and scalp care
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Attributes: Marine Hydrolyzed Collagen A is composed of low molecular weight proteins, oligopeptides and amino acids from marine origin. These collagen fractions deliver high substantivity to hair providing conditioning and damage repairing benefits. It also benefits the scalp and hair follicles by increasing keratin 14 which is associated with hair strength.

BELSIL eco GB 102
INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethiconol.
Applications: Conditioners and hair treatments
Suggested Use Levels: 1-100%
Attributes: Belsil eco grades are the first silicones manufactured with natural biomethanol from plants which helps preserve our natural resources. Belsil eco GB 1020 is a blend of low viscosity dimethicones and high molecular weight dimethiconol, it smooths damaged hair to regain a natural, healthy appearance while improving softness and combability.

Chemyunion, Inc.
Manalapan, NJ
Tel: 732-529-0964
Email: contact@chemyunion.com
Website: chemyunion.com

Sensoveil Soft
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, mask, leave-on, pomades, powders, bars and water-less products
Suggested Use Levels: Shampoo: 0.1 to 0.5, conditioner, mask, leave-on, pomade, powders, bars and water-less products:1.0 to 2.0
Attributes: Sensoveil Soft is a plant-based lipid replacement suitable for any type of hair. It is quat-free and does not cause build-up.Creates a bridge between the amino acids on the surface of the hair and natural sunflower, crambe and avocado oils for easy combing, frizz reduction, softness and shine.

Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-USA@croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com

INCI: Aqua (and) hydrolyzed pea protein (and) hydrolyzed vegetable protein
Applications:  Leave on and rinse off conditioners, shampoos and styling
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% w/w
Attributes: KeraMatch V is a protein blend derived from plant sources that has been specifically designed to offer a viable alternative to animal-derived keratin. With an amino acid profile that has been optimized to match the most abundant amino acids found within animal-derived keratin, KeraMatch V replicates the performance and functional benefits provided by animal-derived keratin, to improve the overall quality of damaged and fragile hair.  Tested on African, Asian and Caucasian hair types.

INCI: Dioctyldodecyl dodecanedioate
Suggested Use Levels: 1% w/w
Applications: Leave on and rinse off hair conditioners. SensaLuxe DF is a naturally-derived, biodegradable active that delivers consumer perceivable improvements, for hair that is smoother, softer and more manageable. SensaLuxe DF is effective from both rinse-off and leave-on treatments, providing a novel alternative to traditional hair care actives to enhance the condition of damaged hair in its dry state.

DSM Personal Care
Tel: 973-257-8222
Email: Info.pc-na@dsm.com
Website: www.dsm.com/personal-care

INCI: Polyquaternium-110
Applications: Volumizing shampoos and conditioners
Suggested Use levels: 1–3%
Attributes: Visible hair volume increase (>100%) when used alone or in synergy with other common conditioning agents. A new-to-the-world hair care technology that invisibly transforms upon drying to create volume without sacrificing conditioning, a key advantage compared to common volumizing methods.

Essen, Germany
Tel: 804-727-0700
Email: pcsampling@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personalcare

TEGO Pep 3-Boost
INCI: Copper tripeptide-34
Applications: Hair conditioning, hair treatments, scalp care
Suggested Use Levels: 10-50ppm
Attributes:  Tego Pep 3-Boost is a carrier peptide with naturally occurring amino acids that helps to promote a healthy hair life cycle, the appearance of strengthened hair follicles and improved scalp appearance.

TEGO Remo 95 MB
INCI: Sorbitan caprylate, glyceryl oleate
Applications: Rinse-off applications including hair and body cleansing, Certified natural cosmetics, baby care
Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-3.0%
Attributes:  Tego Remo 95 MB is a natural-based thickener with emollient properties providing efficient thickening and skin conditioning properties at the same time. It is a low viscous, clear and colorless liquid with an active matter of 95% and is based fully on RSPO mass balance renewable sources.

Jeen International Corporation
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com

Jeecide Cap-7
INCI: Caprylyl glycol (and) glyceryl laurate (and) glyceryl undecylenate
Applications: All personal care applications including hair care, skin care, body care, color cosmetics, leave-on and rinse-off
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-1.5%
Attributes: Jeecide CAP-7 is a multifunctional, easy-to-use, clear liquid free of phenoxyethanol, parabens, MITs, and formaldehyde releasers. It can be used in combination with traditional preservatives to boost their efficacy or alone to prevent microbial growth in preservative-free formulations. Also has emollient/skin conditioning properties to leave skin feeling smooth and hydrated.

Jeesperse ICE-T C-GARN
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behenyl trimonium chloride (and) stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (and) hydroxypropyl guar
Applications: Hair care, including shampoos, conditioners, masque systems, hair color, leave-on, rinse-off, and other cationic applications
Suggested Use Levels: 6-8%
Attributes: A patented, cold emulsifier technology delivered as an optimized powder that rapidly forms hair conditioner bases when introduced to water without heat. Efficient. Sustainable. Offers instant hydration and enhanced conditioning. Can be used to protect key active ingredients and as a texture modifier. Also ideal as a “water-free” finished good.

Koster Keunen
Watertown, CT
Tel: 860-945-3333
Email: info@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.kosterkeunen.com

Kostol TMC-25
INCI: Clean beauty approved, cationic O/W emulsifier without volatile components. cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride
Applications: Hair and skin care, leave-on and wash off. Conditioners, detanglers, hair bleach, hair colors, shampoo, spray, styling, masks, treatments, shave products, emulsions
Suggested Use Levels: 1-8%
Attributes: Kostol TMC-25 is a plant based, cationic oil-in-water emulsifier. Developing emulsions with cationic systems offers better adhesion to hair and skin. Kostol TMC-25 is unique as it has been created without volatile materials like other behentrimonium chloride emulsifiers you may find on the market. The removal of flammable and volatile content ensures safety in the lab and production, and reduces regulatory issues for markets that prohibit these additives.

Lubrizol Life Science—Beauty
Tel: 800-379-5389
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/beauty

AlgaPUr High Stability High Oleic (HSHO) algae oil
INCI: Triolein
Applications: Conditioning, shampoo, styling and treatment
Suggested Use Levels: Water-based systems: 0.5-10 wt% and anhydrous systems: 5-40 wt%
Attributes: A highly stable bio-based oil containing over 90% of beneficial Omega 9 (oleic acid) that helps protect and strengthen the fiber, provide shine to the hair and control frizz while hydrating, rejuvenating and repairing the scalp for holistic care of the hair and scalp. Tested on different hair types.

Fixate Freestyle polymer
INCI: Acrylates crosspolymer-3
Applications: Clear gels, creams/milks, putties/pastes/taffies/fiber/glue
Suggested Use Levels: 3-15% as supplied (31% wt TS)
Attributes: Offers tailored stiffness from normal to ultra high. Excellent humidity resistance, clarity, superior gel aesthetics and shine. Suitable for medium to high viscosity applications. By creating a shield around the fiber, protects the hair from pollutants and helps in their removal when shampooing.

Fixate Superhold polymer
INCI: Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer
Applications: Clear gels
Suggested Use Levels: 3-12% as supplied (30% wt TS)
Attributes: Optimal balance of humidity resistance and style hold without stickiness and build up. Provides high shine and wet look. Thanks to its anti-pollution benefits, protects the hair against particulate matter adhesion and facilitates its wash away during rinsing.

Pilot Chemical Company
West Chester, Ohio
Tel: 1-800-70-PILOT
Email: krpotter@pilotchemical.com
Website: https://pilotchemical.com/calfoam10max

Calfoam 10 MAX Surfactants
INCI: Low 1,4-dioxane anionic surfactants
Applications: Bubble bath, shampoo, shower gel, facial cleanser, liquid hand cleaner, fabric care, hand dish wash, and car care products
Suggested Use Levels: Various depending on formulation
Attributes: Calfoam 10 MAX Surfactants are anionic surfactants that provides luxurious, mild and copious foam that is gentle to the skin and perfect for personal care and HI&I formulations. Calfoam 10 MAX Surfactants have a 1,4-dioxane level below 10ppm to enable formulations to meet New York state’s end use product regulations.

Seiwa Kasei Co. Ltd.
Tel: +81-72-987-2626
Email: sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
Website: www.seiwakasei.jp/en/

INCI: Hydrolyzed soy protein, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, pentylene glycol, gluconolactone, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hair treatment and hair mist
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Attributes:  PhytoCuticle is the latest cuticle-care ingredient of plant origin developed based on Seiwa Kasei’s original biomimetic technology. It adsorbs to the damaged part of cuticle selectively and restores barrier structure. This product is a globally- approval ingredient.

Botanical Keratin (Promois WJ-SP)
INCI: Hydrolyzed pea protein
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment
Suggested Use Levels: 0.4-1.0%
Attributes: Ecocert, Cosmos, and globally approved 100% pure Hydrolyzed Pea Protein. Botanical Keratin has the similar amino acid component as that of keratin, the main component of hair. Therefore, it has keratin-like hair revitalizing effect.

Promois GOMA-SIG
INCI: Hydrolyzed sesame protein PG-propyl methylsilanediol, water
Applications: Shampoo, hair mist and leave-on treatment

Suggested Use Levels: 0.4-2.0%
Attributes: Promois GOMA-SIG is a silylated derivative of hydrolyzed sesame protein. It protects and repairs hair and improves its texture by a heat enhancing effect that results in the formation of a film on the hair in response to heat from hair dryers or hair ironing.

Saint-Viance, France
Tel: +33 (0)5-55-84-58-40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr

INCI: Biopeptides, phenolic acids, flavonoids
Applications: all care products for gray hair
Suggested Use Levels: available in aqueous solution, recommended amount: 0.5 to 2.5%
Attributes: Agreynist is an anti-free radical and pro-pigmenting active obtained by combining the efficacies of black oat and spiny restharrow, enabling the original color of gray hair to be restored. It regulates the biological pathways causing hair to gray, thus decreasing the number of gray hairs in Caucasian and Asian volunteers.

Stepan Company
Northfield, IL
Tel: 800-745-7837
Email: techserv@stepan.com
Website: www.stepan.com

INCI: Dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) sunflower seed oil glycerides
Applications: Hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair masks, hair styling products, conditioning shampoos
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5 – 5%
Attributes: Stepanquat Soleil is a high-performing conditioning agent based on GMO-free, European-sourced sunflower oil that smooths each individual hair strand for super-soft, manageable hair. It allows for easy combing and delivers equal performance to behentrimonium chloride (BTAC). Stepanquat Soleil also has a better environmental profile than most traditional conditioning agents.

Univar Solutions
Downers Grove, Illinois
Tel: 1-800-531-7106
Email: getstarted@univarsolutions.com
Website: univarsolutions.com/beautycare

HydroxySHIELD Polymer from Dow Chemical
INCI: Bis-diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl disiloxane/bis-vinyl dimethicone copolymer
Applications: Rinse-off conditioners, leave-in conditioners, shampoos, sulfate-free shampoos, anhydrous serums, styling conditioners
Suggested Use Levels: 1–2%
Attributes: HydroxyShield Polymer from Dow is a functional amino polymer in a biodegradable carrier that goes beyond protection with multifunctional benefits including heat and color protection. Use it to build a hair cleansing and conditioning line that rescues, repairs and protects hair from breakage day after day.

ProCondition 22 from INOLEX
INCI: Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine
Applications: Rinse-off conditioners, shampoos and surfactant systems, leave-on hair products, skin care emulsions
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5–5% depending on application
Attributes: ProCondition 22 is a hair conditioning agent with exceptional hair conditioning benefits including smoothing lifted cuticles, improved dry combability, flyaway reduction. In surfactant systems, it delivers a more dense and creamy foam. It is plant based and readily biodegradable for the clean beauty formulator.

TILAMAR Boost 150 from DSM
INCI: Polyquaternium-110
Applications: Shampoos, sulfate-free shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, leave-in conditioners, styling products
Suggested Use Levels: 1–3%
Attributes: Tilamar Boost 150 delivers impressive lasting hair volume with an extra touch of care for different hair types. In addition to meaningful volume, it also increases hair elasticity and style ability and is compatible with traditional conditioning polymers. It is also a certified microbiome-friendly ingredient. 

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