The Show Must Go On..Sorta

More than 3,000 beauty industry professionals tuned in to watch 28 live webinars as In-Cosmetics Global went virtual last week. The full series is available on-demand at www.in-cosmetics.com/Landing-pages/Online-Conference/. As reported, In-Cosmetics Global has been postponed and will be held Oct. 6-8, 2020 in Barcelona.
 
 
“For the past 30 years, In-Cosmetics Global has served the personal care and cosmetic sector as a live event to engage, inspire and reveal what’s new,” observed In-Cosmetics Global Event Director Roziani Zulkifli said.“Whilst we eagerly wait to do this in person this October, we wanted to maintain a sense of community within the cosmetics industry and provide a platform for our amazing exhibitors and speakers to share their expert insight.”
 
 
The Latest Ingredients
 
Leading industry professionals, representing a number of exhibitors, used the new digital conference to share their expertise and reveal newly launched ingredients. Evonik’s Christin Ihrig detailed why ceramides are recognized for their anti-aging, moisturizing and barrier-fortifying benefits. She also provided a preview of two new products within the Evonik range: a follow up to the successful bio-inspired hair and scalp care ingredient Hairflux, which is designed for the body and skin; and a new smart and efficient way to formulate Ceramide 3.
 
Givaudan’s Mathias Fleury spoke about the importance of melatonin release in achieving healthier skin. Givaudan’s new Synchronight microbiome-activated digital stress defender was developed via green fractionation; the active ingredient is made from gardenia fruit extract and protects the skin's melatonin production cycle. It is said to behave as a vegetal melatonin-like compound when activated by the skin microflora, while rejuvenating the skin and improving sleep quality.
 
Helping formulators create natural vegan colors in line with consumer desires, Genevieve Lee of BASF Colors & Effects, showed viewers how they can make conscious living a bold statement with its new intense pigment, Cloisonné Vibrant Raspberry. The product is based on natural mica from ethical and environmentally conscious mining operations, and can be combined with other pigments to produce applications in a range of colors from light pink to deep violet, according to Lee. 
 
Another webinar delivered by Evonik’s Silvana Estarita-Jäde detailed TegoDeo A30 eco, billed as a highly effective natural odor absorber with proven efficacy in both in-vitro and in-vivo tests and is effective for 24 hours. She discussed how there are many different approaches to eliminate body odors and that last year 4,744 deodorant products were launched, with only 23% claiming to be natural. In contrast, Evonik’s ingredient is in line with consumer expectations as it is mild, gentle, reliable and natural, according to Estarita-Jäde.
 
Ashland’s Justine Cotton introduced Nightessence biofunctional, which enhances the naturally occurring nocturnal process that helps skin boost molecules such as timezyme and melatonin. Building on the current beauty sleep trend, it is tailored to optimize the skin’s nighttime needs, helping ensure that it looks rested, renewed and illuminated by morning. Nightessence biofunctional is eco-consciously designed from field-to-skin, made with lavender that is sustainably grown in Provence, France.
 
Other technical-seminars-turned-webinars gave a taste of some of the ingredients that R&D professionals can engage with at the show in October.
 
Describing Symrise Cosmetics Ingredients’ 360° approach to optimized sunscreen formulations, Martina Issleib revealed that its SymEffect Sun solution provides gentle film-forming in formulations without a negative feeling on the skin. In-vivo studies have demonstrated the solution increases SPF by 10-27%, even at low concentrations of 2-3%, and improves water resistance by more than 20% in different sunscreen formulations. Made from 100% naturally derived ingredients, including cera alba (beeswax), it is also a sustainable alternative to synthetic and silicone-based film-forming and SPF-enhancing raw materials.
 
LipoTrue’s Silvia Pastor  detailed the microbiome-loving benefits of  Æonome.The prebiotic is metabolized by the commensal cutaneous microbiota, enhancing the production and release of antioxidant metabolites and protecting the skin cells from oxidative stress and signs of aging, according to LipoTrue. Æonome’s efficacy reinforces the antioxidant protection of the microbiota of the skin cells’ ageless force, improving rugosity, wrinkles and hydration.
 
Industry experts from major market research providers and suppliers opened and closed the conference each day, highlighting some of the sector’s most prominent trends and challenges.
 
Gabriella Beckwith of Euromonitor International, opened the virtual conference by giving listeners a tour of the world's beauty hotspots and discussing how standards of beauty differ significantly around the globe. She discussed how the K-Beauty market has matured and is now seeing a decline, whereas J-Beauty is gaining momentum as consumers prioritize efficacy. After reviewing other hotspots, including Australia, India and Scandinavia, Beckwith let viewers in on the secret of which regions are the ones to watch, including Africa, Germany and Brazil.
 
Zeze Oriaikhi-Sao of Malée Natural Science, presented a webinar on the art of African beauty. The continent is forecasted to be a significant region of growth for the cosmetic industry, as current annual growth of approximately 8-10% is surpassing the average global rate of 4%. She highlighted the growing middle class that is willing to spend three times as much as the average consumer – a demographic which is mostly found in Sub-Saharan Africa. She also discussed the key threats to the market, as well as the hierarchical position of key industry players.
 
Kicking off day two, Andrew McDougall of Mintel, highlighted the shifting behavior between consumers and brands. Sharing exclusive research, he revealed the growing skepticism about brand transparency, with 60% of UK consumers doubting the claims beauty brands make about their products, such as reducing wrinkles. He also said that consumer trust is increasing in products or ingredients created by scientists, with 78% of Brazilian consumers embracing products, such as hydrochloric acid, while 75% of Spanish consumers would be willing to use products/ingredients created by scientists that offered the same benefits and performance as natural products. Andrew closed the webinar by revealing the topics currently being explored by the Mintel team with reports on fermentation, biotechnology and sustainability expected to be released in the coming months.
 
On day three, Stylus’ Lisa Payne, introduced five game-changing beauty consumer tribes, including Skintellectuals, the consumer group that will have the biggest impact on the industry over the next decade, who are more demanding, want value for money and hardworking formulas.
 
Another consumer group, the Creative Cosmetic Kids, considers 90% of American girls aged 9-17 to be beauty product users. This target audience is often targeted with planet-friendly alternatives, as young people are seen to be more concerned with environmental issues. And, highlighting the beauty is ageless, Payne highlighted the Well-Ageing Warriors and the 360 Ethical Millennial who demand a complete approach to eco-ethical beauty.
 
With 79% of UK adults feeling that personal care and beauty brands need to put more effort into ethical and sustainable product production, Laura Busata of Unifarco S.p.A., closed the three-day virtual conference with a webinar on ocean safe beauty. 
 
She remarked how the “green” beauty trend extended the term “clean beauty” from just consumer safety to the prevention of harming the environment, with “ocean safe beauty” being one of the last born beauty trends. With a focus on minimizing harm to marine life, Laura succinctly delivered the directions industry must take, including limiting the use of impactful ingredients, choosing more environmentally friendly packaging and reducing water wastage in formulations.
 
The In-Cosmetics Global Online Conference can be viewed on-demand on the BrightTalk Webinar channel. To watch, visit: www.in-cosmetics.com/Landing-pages/Online-Conference/