03.19.23
While glowing skin will always be a key beauty trend in skincare, the glow aesthetic in makeup is currently taking a backseat to the modern matte look. Spate provides their research and insight into these two latest beauty trends driving the market.
Exploring Azulene and Panthenol as Serum Ingredients

Azulene has an average of 1,300 monthly searches and a YoY growth of +82.9%.
In the skincare world, Korea is known for its 10-step routines, innovative ingredients, unique formulations and effective results.
Now, Spate, a market research firm based in New York City, is exploring top-growing ingredients searched alongside ampoules in Korea. An ampoule is a highly concentrated serum that delivers a potent dose of active ingredients to the skin. It's typically used as a treatment step after cleansing and toning before moisturizing.
Azulene has an average of 1,300 monthly searches and a YoY growth of +82.9%. It works by neutralizing free radicals and can prevent cellular damage caused by sun exposure, which often leads to skin discoloration. Azulene is used in salves and ointments to calm various skin conditions and irritations due to its soothing, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. With the demand for solutions to address hyperpigmentation in the US growing (+4.6% YoY growth in searches for hyperpigmentation laser), Spate says it’s worth it for brands to explore the interest in azulene as a serum ingredient.
Panthenol is another highly sought-after ingredient in skincare that works wonders as a moisturizer. Studies have shown that it helps to reduce transepidermal water loss, which is the amount of water that evaporates through the skin. Even products that contain just 1% panthenol can provide rapid hydration to the skin, resulting in a more supple and youthful appearance. With many Korean skincare trends focusing on hydration — consider dewy dumpling skin, glass skin, and slugging — it's no surprise that there has been a +7.6% increase in searches for moisturizing alongside skincare in Korea.
Matte Makeup is Trending on TikTok
In the last month, views for matte makeup on TikTok have grown +31.7%. That is one of the fastest-growing TikTok makeup trends this month, which signals a potential shift away from the glowy aesthetic. Although some may fear the return of the 2016 “cake face,” the growing #mattemakeup look is one to keep a close eye on, Spate says. This returning trend is a great opportunity to create content, as well as an important signal for product developers to consider ways to create a modern matte product.