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    Features

    Burgeoning Beauty

    A look at trailblazers for 2016 and beyond.

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    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor01.04.16
    The beauty business is brimming with innovations in the new year, according to folks who know a thing or two about what sells—and what doesn’t.


    “Beauty customers have access to much more information than they did even a few years ago. They are using online tools to help make decisions and they have easy access to every ingredient list and expert opinion,” explained Eric Neher, VP-merchandising, Birchbox, New York. “For that reason, brands that have a clear and direct mission and list of benefits have resonated particularly well. Customers have gravitated toward brands that can state simply what should be expected from a product—and then the product needs to deliver!”


    Neher added that brands that use high quality and/or natural ingredients are rising in popularity, and the customer has a-less-is-more attitude when it comes to ingredients.


    “On top of all of this, brands that are making beauty fun for the customer certainly have a leg up. It’s a fun category and it should feel that way to the consumer!” he told Happi.


    Here’s a look at some of beauty’s rising stars for 2016.


    TreStiQue
    Website: www.trestique.com

    Year Founded: 2015

    Names To Know: Jennifer Kapahi, co-founder, product development and marketing; Jack Bensason, co-founder, operational and new business development

    Major Products: Matte Color & Shiny Balm Lip Crayon; Color & Smudge Shadow Crayon; Cover, Correct & Conceal Crayon; Color & Contour Cheek Stick; Tint, Moisturize & Blend Face Stick; Line, Sharpen & Smudge Eye Pencil;  Define, Sculpt & Set Brow Pencil 

    Hero Product: Matte Color & Shiny Balm Lip Crayon

    Stocked At: Birchbox Soho and www.trestique.com

    Newest Launch: Highlight & Perfect Multipurpose Stick

    Brand Story: Company co-founders Kapahi and Bensason have more than 22 years of industry experience spanning operations, supply chain, development, vendor relations, artistry, sales, marketing, product and trends. They met while working at Intercos but it wasn’t until four years later, after Kapahi had left Revlon, that the duo began to brainstorm on what would later be TreStiQue Beauty.

    “We both believed that the ‘pencil’ was not just a trend but a very effective delivery system for makeup and it was our goal to bring a new, more innovative ‘pencil’ to market,” Kapahi explained. “We spent about a year with engineers and developers creating a patent pending package design and testing our magnetic seal. Due to our key industry connections we were able to create and develop 100% custom products under very short lead times.”

    During these first six months, Kapahi and Bensason sampled over three million units, giving women the ability to try and use in the comfort of her own home.

    “Our goal was to create a clear and simple place for her to shop our products so we use both real product photography and video to show and demonstrate the shades on real skin,” Kapahi recalled.

    It was extremely important for TreStiQue to engage and connect with its customers on social media.

    “We use Instagram as a tool to offer custom shade and product consultations,” explained Kapahi. “Through sampling and social media engagement we have seen tremendous positive growth and response to our products and to our brand.”

    Why We’re Watching: TreStiQue’s co-founders say they have created the first magnetic sealing crayon in the world (for caps that stay secure in your bag) and the first built in twist-on and twist-off customizable tool system for pencils so that women can replace or refill as needed. TreStiQue’s crayons feature high performance cream-gel textures that wear longer, glide smoother and feel lighter on skin. The goal is to simplify the way women use makeup through application, product form and overall travel-friendly routine. With the multitude of products out on the market, the co-founders knew that they needed a strong and unique difference.

    “Since our line of makeup essentials all come in stick and crayon form you can fit all your essentials in our travel Le Pak bag, simplifying your bag and application on-the-go,” Kapahi insisted.

    What’s Next: This year, TreStiQue will continue to run campaigns with its sampling partners to raise brand awareness and get its formulas and shades into the hands of consumers.

    “We have received amazing feedback so far on our eye shadows, concealers and lipsticks. We will also be launching some new products, new kits and new shades for lip and eye throughout the year across various collections,” said Kapahi. 


    Unwash
    Website: www.unwash.com

    Year Founded: 2013

    Names To Know: Brandon Schwartz, marketing director; Michael Brinkenhoff, MD, president/CEO/cofounder of Athena Cosmetics

    Major Products: Bio-Cleansing Conditioner, Anti-Residue Rinse, Hydrating Masque, Dry Cleanser

    Hero Product: Bio-Cleansing Conditioner: Applying Emulsion Co-Wash Method, this unique formula attracts and removes daily dirt and surface buildup without stripping hair of its healthy, natural oils. Essential moisture is locked in to restore balance and promote healthy, smooth hair. Combined with nourishing oils and extracts, hair is left soft, more manageable, free of frizz and full of bounce, body and vibrant natural beauty.

    Stocked At: More than 10,000 salons and via unwash.com

    Newest Launch: Dry Cleanser (January 2016)

    Brand Story: Unwash is a co-wash hair care line that is said to gently cleanse hair without stripping natural oils and nutrients, drying hair or depleting color-treated hair of its vitality. The “Emulsion Co-Wash Method” refers to the Unwash blend of naturally-derived ingredients with key performance technologies that attract and remove daily dirt and surface buildup without opening the cuticle and stripping natural oils from the hair. This more intelligent approach brings hair back to life and helps maintain an overall moisture balance, promoting healthier hair and scalp, said the company.

    Why We’re Watching: Co-washing is a fast-growing category spearheaded by a movement of women against the conventional institution of utilizing shampoo to clean and care for hair.

    What’s Next: Unwash is looking forward to launching the newest addition to the line—the Dry Cleanser—this month. The product is billed as “one of a kind” in the dry shampoo category, with pure volcanic ash as the main ingredient to absorb and disband excess oil and dirt. The brand continues to innovate in the hair space and the team is always looking for ways to change the game.

    “We are excited to share this innovation in the months to come,” said Schwartz. 


    Peek Beauty
    Website: http://peekbeauty.co

    Year Founded: 2012

    Names To Know: Cristina Bartolucci, founder/CEO

    Major Products: Expresso Natural Stain Brow Powder, Filter Feature Luminizing Face Balm, It’s Not Black and White Eye Primer, Nom Nom organic plumping balm

    Hero Product: Expresso Natural Stain Brow Powder combines the forgiving quality of a powder with the long-lasting intensity of a stain. Derived from coffee seed oil and other natural ingredients, this product comes in two universal shades for easy custom blending. 
     
    Stocked At: online www.peekbeauty.co, Space.NK.Apothecary and amazon.com

    Newest Launch: Nom Nom organic plumping balm, a tinted lip balm that provides shine and pigment to maximize fullness.

    Brand Story: Peek Beauty is an all-natural makeup brand that puts a proud and unabashedly unconventional spin on beauty essentials. Peek currently has four contemporary, cutting edge creations in the beauty and makeup space—each available in easily portable, really adorable tins—and additional, exciting innovations on the horizon. Unlike most makeup companies, Peek Beauty is committed to enhancing natural beauty, as opposed to “covering up” imperfections, according to its founder.

    After working in the makeup industry for many years, founder and celebrity makeup artist, Cristina Bartolucci, a co-founder of Duwop Cosmetics, recognized a need to create and introduce a line of makeup and beauty products that are cruelty free and “just natural enough.” Bartolucci created Peek Beauty to bring consumers an “earth shattering blast of confidence that comes from knowing you look your absolute best.”

    “Makeup, besides being delightful and delicious, is a powerful form of self-care,” said Bartolucci. “In the same way that styling creams and pomades give a finishing touch to the hair, Peek products define and refine the face, helping makeup perform at its peak. Lush, believable brows, a lit-from-within glow and full, sensuous lips are Peek’s gift to you.”

    Why We’re Watching: Peek Beauty places its customers’ well-being first by excluding harmful additives and ingredients, yet “remains open to all that science has to offer,” Bartolucci insists. It is also a leading favorite among celebrity makeup artists and is growing in leaps and bounds within the consumer sector, according to Bartolucci.

    What’s Next: Peek Beauty will continue to build its US expansion including the launch of Nom Nom organic plumping balm this month and the addition of new products and colors.


    Yuni
    Website: www.yunibeauty.com
     
    Year Founded: August 2015 

    Names to Know: Emmanuel Rey and Suzanne Dawson, founders
     
    Major Products: Shower Sheets, No-Rinse Body Cleansing Foam, Aromatic Body Mist, Muscle Recovery Gel, Active Calm Face Moisturizer and the Microveil Hair Treatment.

    Hero Products: No-Rinse Body Cleansing Foam. This formula allows users to effectively cleanse the body without water, helping gain time while skipping a shower and saving water. 
     
    Stocked At: YuniBeauty.com and other green beauty retailers, specialty beauty stores (e.g., Credo & Detox Market) and premium yoga studios (e.g., Yogaworks) nationally.

    Newest Launch: The complete line just launched in August 2015. According to the founders, “we’re pioneering a whole new category of beauty products for yogis and active health seekers. This is a yoga and fitness lifestyle brand with 13 unique products in skin care, body care, hair care and fragrance categories. New launches slated for 2016 build on heroes and specifically address the needs of our active audience.”
     
    Brand Story: Company founders and husband and wife Emmanuel Rey and Suzanne Dawson are seasoned beauty executives with more than 20 years of executive experience at Aveda, Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and LVMH.

    “The idea came to us during our Ashtanga Yoga teacher training in Amorgos, Greece,” Dawson told Happi. “During this experience we learned more about the deep connection each yogi has with his practice.”

    The pair saw firsthand the products that their fellow students were using, noticed the gaps and the need for innovation in creating healthy, natural and highly effective products made specifically for modern active lifestyles. “When we returned home, we continued our research with a large number of yoga/fitness influencers, deepened our understanding, took key insights into account and combined it with our background in the beauty industry.”
     
    Why We’re Watching: There are more than 22 million people practicing yoga regularly in North America, yet not a single brand caters to the unique needs of this community; Yuni wants to be their brand.

    “Like yoga, beauty is a very personal daily ritual and we wanted to find ways to connect and reinforce these rituals,” said Rey.

    According to Rey, sensorial products in the wellness category help users recover faster from strenuous exertion and make daily beauty rituals more pleasurable. People would like to recall the sensations of a yoga practice at will.  These balancing and therapeutic products use botanical actives and unique natural aromas that help anchor your “yoga-moment” anytime, anywhere.

    “From the inception, we wanted to create a brand that was natural and sustainable,” Rey explained. “We use organic and fair trade ingredients, natural aromas, avoid certain chemicals, modern minimal and eco packaging and also manufacture most of our products in a solar powered facility.”

    What’s Next: As athleisure is to fashion’s sporty generation, Yuni plans to be to beauty’s mindfully fit generation. The company is in the midst of fielding retail partners and developing its distribution in North America. Yuni will also debut in select countries during the first quarter of 2016.

    “We’re at the beginning of this journey and are pioneering a whole new category; much remains to be discovered and invented and we couldn’t be happier with how it’s going so far!” insists the founders.


    Appriya
    Website: www.appriya.com
     
    Year Founded: Incorporated in 2015, product development began in 2013
     
    Names To Know: Oui S. Coulson, president and Dikka  Amuchástegui, executive vice president
     
    Major Products: Comprehensive Mineral Day & Night Cream, Delicate Zone Serum and Mineral Complex Serum
     
    Hero Product: Appriya is launching its core line, which is designed to be used as daily skin care regimen. The line will include its Mineral Cleansing Mousse, Mineral Tonic, Mineral Complex Serum, Delicate Zone Serum & Mineral Day & Night Cream. The true hero is its star ingredient, Appriya Water, which serves as the foundation of each product formula.
     
    Stocked At: www.appriya.com
     
    Newest Launch: Comprehensive Mineral Day & Night Cream, Delicate Zone Serum and Mineral Complex Serum launching for Spring 2016.
     
    Brand Story: Appriya is committed to the quality and integrity of anti-aging skin care products. The line features smart, good-for-skin ingredients that are safe, high quality and effective for results that deliver, according to company executives. 

     Appriya started in 2012 with the question of what to do with the healing mineral water discovered by a friend of the family in the heart of Thailand. Water is the foundation of all personal care products. What if they could use this water as the foundation for a highly effective, healthy and results-driven skin care product line?  Soon after the discovery, the founders worked with a top cosmetic chemist in Thailand to develop the luxurious formulas that are now Appriya’s anti-aging skin care line. Each product formula begins with the proprietary mineral water as a base and is combined with cutting-edge, top anti-aging ingredients for a line of pampering, transformative skin care products. 

    Why We’re Watching: Appriya Water is sourced from a sacred well located more 90 feet below the Earth’s surface in the heart of Thailand, according to the company. The source of Appriya Water is replenished by rainwater that is filtered through mineral saturated rock leaving it rich with embedded biodegradable nanoparticles of silica that keeps collagen and elastin fibers strong and flexible. According to the company co-founders, the water is imbued with just the right amount of hydrogen peroxide which helps regulate oxygen on a cellular level and contains natural antimicrobial agents to reduce inflammation and blemishes. These naturally occurring restorative elements permeate deeply to transform the skin and serve as the cornerstone of Appriya skin care. 
     
    What’s Next: Appriya will be expanding its offerings to a Cleansing Mousse and Mineral Tonic in the New Year.


    Sunless, Inc.
    Website: http://sunlessinc.com

    Year Founded: 2009
     
    Names To Know: Peter van Niekerk, CEO; Mike Concannon, vice president of marketing; Cari Gerbract, director of R&D
     
    Major Products: VersaSpa Bronzing Mist transforms skin with an instant bronzed tone, fused with the power of an extended tan; VersaSpa Gradual Tanning Spa Butter moisturizes skin and creates a tan with a whipped butter that immediately restores skin to a silky and renewed feel; VersaSpa Gradual Tanning Face Moisturizer hydrates skin, blurs fine lines and creates a tan; VersaSpa Luminous Legs Shimmering Oil transforms legs with a glamorous finish; Mystic Tan Gradual Tanner Lotion builds natural color day-by-day; and Mystic Tan Bronzing Stick is ideal for slimming and contouring cheek bones, neck, jawline and defining cleavage. In addition, Mystic Tan Mocha-Kyssed Bronzer Spray, Mystic Tan Sun-Kyssed Bronzer Spray and Mystic Tan Mocha-Kyssed Gradual Tanner are all said to give a double punch of instant cosmetic color, while gradually building a natural tan.
     
    Hero Product: VersaSpa Bronzing Mist, which transforms skin with an instant bronzed tone, fused with the power of an extended tan. A delicate micro-mist provides head-to-toe color for an even and gorgeous tan. Mystic Tan Mocha-Kyssed Bronzer Spray offers instant cosmetic color plus an extended tan. The micro-spray, with its warm, brown undertones, creates an all-over customized look. 
     
    Stocked At: Tanning salons across the US and coming to specialty beauty retailers in early 2016  
     
    Newest Launch: The VersaSpa retail line is billed as a unique combination of advanced skin care and tanning technology that delivers a daily regimen of at-home products infused with green and brown marine algae to moisturize, oxygenate and detoxify skin for a beautiful tan.

    The Mystic Tan retail line is said to be the first collection of products that enables consumers to create a custom tan and signature look for every style, mood, season and event. Boosters plus bronzers in multiple tones, along with unique products like Sparx and Bronzer Stick, impart “The Color of Confidence,” according to the company.
     
    Brand Story: Sunless, Inc., Macedonia, OH, is an industry leader in sunless tanning skin care products with professional spray tan solutions, automated spray tanning booths and premium home-use sunless products marketed under the VersaSpa and Mystic Tan brands. Products are distributed worldwide and the company is owned by The Riverside Company.

    Company executives say their product goes beyond imparting a simple tan. VersaSpa combines the science of skin care with advanced tanning technology to transform self-tanning by introducing a breakthrough blend of green and brown marine algae to detoxify, firm and hydrate cells which rejuvenates the skin to produce a beautiful tan. With a product line that includes a weightless bronzing mist, whipped spa butter, age-defying facial moisturizer and luminous legs, VersaSpa makes you look as beautiful and empowered as you feel, according to the company.

    “Our brands are 100% focused on tanning, unlike other skin care brands, where sunless tanning is a mere sideline,” insisted Peter van Niekerk, CEO. “VersaSpa & Mystic Tan products are purchased more than 10 million times each year and consumers spend over $300 million purchasing the brands annually. In fact, one of our brands is purchased every second, of every day, throughout the year.  That’s a lot of loyal fans.”

    So, what does all that mean?

    “We possess more insight as to why people tan and what ‘color’ means to them, on a personal level, than any other brand in skin care. And, we utilize this insight to create the most preferred sunless skin care products.” 
     
    Why We’re Watching: Mystic Tan is said to be the first line of products to allow users to create a customized healthy bronze glow and a signature look to match their style, mood, season and social event. The product line includes bronzers in multiple tones, along with “finishing” products like Sparx and a Bronzer Stick which can be mixed and matched.

    What’s Next: van Niekerk said that Mystic Tan and VersaSpa will use “uncommon insight into the spoken and unspoken needs and wants of consumers to create products that delight their senses with beautifying self-tanning treatments.”  


    Ittse
    Website:  www.ittse.com

    Year Founded: 2014
     
    Names to Know: Gretchen Auston Chevalier, CEO/founder; Kelly McCall, brand manager
     
    Major Products: Eco-chic, vegan-leather customizable palettes and a full line of richly pigmented, high-quality refill products

    Hero Products: The Palette, which allows the Ittse shopper to personalize her own makeup collection. According to the firm, the hero refill product of the moment is Ittse’s Illuminator in Barbados, a high-pearl, golden-toned illuminating powder that is reminiscent of the shimmering, pristine, Caribbean beaches glinting the reflection of the setting sun.
     
    Stocked at: www.ittsē.com
     
    Newest Launch: Florentine Gold palette and The Light Fantastic Curated Collection for holiday 2015. A festive blend of high-sparkles and sumptuous pearls, this celebratory collection makes every look glimmer with excitement. This is a full-on-fête overflowing with deep-toned sparkles, go-to liners and soirée-worthy shimmers brimming with pop and panache.
     
    Brand Story: Ittse is billed as a San Francisco-based brand that is revolutionizing customizable cosmetics. According to founder Chevalier, more than 15 years of developing product and directing manufacturing processes for luxury cosmetics brands gave her a unique perspective of the beauty industry.

    “In creating a new beauty business, it was my mission to respond to a specific consumer demand that I’d seen go unanswered for years—an extensive line of high-quality, yet affordable color cosmetics that are completely customizable,” she told Happi.

    Chevalier is confident that Ittse will make consumers fall in love with makeup all over again. The brand’s concept is to engage women in more actively creating their beauty experience.

    The collection boasts chic and elegant packaging that is also completely customizable.

    “We want to offer women the option to select cosmetic packaging as an accessory to their looks as if they were selecting a handbag for their outfit,” Chevalier explained.

    As a result, the packaging comes in a variety of colors, so women can infuse their own personal style into their makeup routine. At the same time, it was necessary to develop an extensive high-quality color line, spanning the finishes from high-sparkle to sophisticated matte.

    And, with more than 100 shades to choose from at affordable prices, the possibilities are nearly endless.
     
    Why We’re Watching: Ittse infuses individual style and personalization starting at the packaging level. The line enables women to exercise their personal taste by choosing a palette color of their preference. The website is lively, entertaining and the firm’s interactive Palette Builder tool facilitates a truly enjoyable shopping experience.

    “We make the process of building a custom cosmetic kit extraordinarily fun,” Chevalier insisted.
     
    What’s Next: Ittse is all about innovation and staying ahead of the trends.

    “Not only do we have some unique products in research now, but also we have plans for some gorgeous new Ittse palette colors and textures for Spring 2016,” said Chevalier.


    ProRituals/Robanda Intl.
    Website: www.robanda.com

    Founded: Late 1970s

    Names To Know: David and Anthony Leib, owners

    Major Products: ProRituals (Italian hair color and wet goods) which includes Mega Hold Hairspray, Hair Color Cream, Hair Brighteners and Daily Shampoo
     
    Hero Product: ProRituals Hair Color Cream
     
    Stocked At: ProRituals is a professional hair brand carried by distributors in the US and abroad.
     
    Newest Launch: Oil in Reviving Cream with chia seed oil, Hair Treatment Oil. In addition, the firm has launched two new men’s focused products—an oil-infused beeswax hair wax and a super hold “Mega Pom” gel pomade.
     
    Brand Story: What’s old is new again! Robanda is a San Diego, CA-based cosmetic group featuring several cosmetic brands. ProRituals got its start 40 years ago in London as a hair education company. The brand was originally called “Jingles” and was known for its cutting edge influence on hair trends and techniques to create these looks.

    In the 1980s, Jingles brought advanced education training to the US with academies in both San Francisco and New York. In the US, the company introduced products like Spray Treat and Mega Hold Hairspray to the mainstream. Robanda purchased the brand 13 years ago from its second ownership.

    The name ProRituals was attached to the brand during this new ownership change. The introduction of Italian hair color was now a big focus for the ProRituals brand, as was the focus on producing a wet line that used botanical ingredients with pH values to close the hair’s cuticle and lock in color and create alternative textures while maintaining the integrity of the hair.

    The lineup includes 19 neutral series for stylists who want cool and warm foundation options.
     
    Why We’re Watching: Italians make great food…and great hair color, apparently!

    “Our Italian hair color is a powerful tool for us,” explained Terrence Michael Renk, creative director for ProRituals. “We put the maximum amount of dye load in every tone at every level of our 3.38oz. tubes. These colors can be used both as permanent and demi-permanent colors and have a low 65-tube inventory.”


    Indie Lee
    Website: IndieLee.com

    Year Founded: 2010

    Names To Know: Indie Lee, founder and CEO

    Major Products: Squalane Facial Oil, Brightening Cleanser, Swiss Apple Facial Serum, CoQ-10 Toner

    Hero Product: Squalane Facial Oil. According to Lee, this moisturizer is so simple—it’s only made from one ingredient, olive-derived squalane oil—yet it is so effective. It’s similar to the skin’s sebum so it absorbs quickly, doesn’t leave any greasy residue behind, and keeps skin looking plump and dewy.

    Stocked At: IndieLee.com, Saks Fifth Avenue, Anthropologie, Space.NK Apothecary

    Newest Launch: Indie Lee just gave its Hydrating Body Balm a bit of a facelift, which company founder and namesake Indie Lee is “super excited about.”

    It is one of her favorite products especially during the winter, because it really is a “do it all” balm.

    “It’s like that go-to pair of black pumps in your closet— always there for you when you need them and goes great with any outfit.”
    In fact, Lee keeps a pot of the Hydrating Body Balm on her vanity and in her office to combat dry skin patches at a moment’s notice.

    Brand Story: Indie Lee started the collection after she was diagnosed with a nearly fatal brain tumor “that was most likely derived from the environment,” she told Happi.

    “It was a hard diagnosis for me to understand because at the time I thought I was living a healthy lifestyle. I ate organic! I had a greenhouse where I grew my own organic produce!”

    After the diagnosis, her doctors helped her realize that her health issues could have been the result of something as simple as what she was putting on her body day in and day out.

    “Even though I thought I was living healthy, I wasn’t really paying attention to my beauty routine,” she recalled. “I learned that the skin absorbs a good portion of whatever you put on it and in a sense, you are what you apply.”

    After waking up from a successful surgery to remove the tumor on Earth Day 2009, she realized that she not only had an opportunity to make the most out of her situation, but to also help educate others and provide a healthier answer. So she created the Indie Lee collection, a line of eco-chic face and body products.

    Why We’re Watching: There will always be other all-natural products on the market, but Lee insists that her story and her product knowledge can help others live their best lives.

    “While we offer beauty without sacrifice—amazing, effective, natural products at a reasonable price, that look good on your sink or vanity—the key thing that sets us apart from other brands is that we are approachable and relatable,” she said. “We strive to empower others to make healthier choices. Being given a new lease on life, my mission has been to teach others how choices they are making in their lives can potentially impact them.”

    What’s Next: Indie Lee continues to expand into new markets monthly—in spas, salons, boutiques and large retailers—and is expected to launch a few new and exciting products over the coming months.

    In addition, Lee will travel throughout the US and Canada in 2016 to meet with new customers. Some trips will be speaking engagements in front of medium to large groups, while others will be one-on-one time. All in all, the year ahead looks bright for this brand. 
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