“The mindset for Spring/Summer 2019 underscores our desire for color that transcends seasonality and brings together high fashion and street style,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, Carlstadt, NJ. “Vibrant without being overpowering, highlighted shades for both men’s and women’s fashion illustrate our desire for authenticity and our continued need for creativity and relatable, accessible design.
And, the hottest hue for 2019 is sourced from the sea. Pantone 16-1546, Living Coral, is the Pantone Color of the Year 2019. According to the company, this animated shade of orange will be everywhere this year—think nail polish, eyeshadow and lipstick.
“The Pantone Color of the Year 2019 is a life-affirming coral hue that energizes and enlivens with a softer edge,” said Eiseman. “Its golden undertone, with its humanizing and heartening qualities, adds a pleasing warm touch to skin tones.”
Janell Geason, global artistic director for Aveda, New York, is a fan of this color. She said, “I’m loving Living Coral because it’s uplifting, light-hearted and embodies a spirit of revelry which matches my own feelings about makeup … in general, shades of coral work for all skin tones.”
Got coral yet for your lips and fingertips? Butter London, the prestige color cosmetics and nail lacquer brand, is collaborating with Pantone as its official beauty partner in the United States to introduce the highly anticipated 2019 Color of the Year. The dynamic duo is joining forces for the third consecutive year with an exclusive six-piece collection featuring Living Coral nail lacquers, lip gloss and a blush stick. With unmatched vibrancy and intense color release, this limited-edition collection will add a unique splash of color to any collection.
“Color products are our forte and we wanted to ensure that our products embody the energy and warmth associated with Living Coral. Each piece adds a lively, yet super approachable, burst of color that complements all skin tones,” noted Ashley Lum, senior director of marketing at Butter London.
In the mass market, lip cosmetic sales rose just 0.8% to $878.9 million, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 30, 2018. Lipstick itself posted growth of 0.1% to $664.5 million. But lipgloss rose 2.7% to $118.7 million.
Lipliner slipped 1.0% to $68.2 million. Lip treatments are up a whopping 38.2% at $20.6 million but lip combo dropped 17.9% to $6.9 million.
Eye cosmetic sales stayed flat at $2.08 billion. Mascara sales slipped 1.2% to $902.8 million while eye liner fell 4.8% to $516.8 million. Eye shadow sales decreased 5.4% to $267.6 million and eye combo dropped 4.7% to $38 million. However, eye brow makeup sales soared 17.9% to $356.7 million, showing the market that there is still an interest in enhancing brows.
Meanwhile, overall facial cosmetic sales slipped 2.2% to $2.1 billion. This includes foundation sales falling 3.1% to $982.6 million, powder sales dipping 5.3% to $354.6 million and concealers dropping 2.6% to $289.8 million. In the segment, blush sales decreased 11% to $127.7 million, bronzers dropped 11.3% to $50.2 million and makeup combo fell 1.2% to $57.9 million. Body accessory sales rose 13.7% to $276.1 million. Nail cosmetic sales slipped a bit at 0.1% to $1.3 billion.
The US prestige beauty industry reached $18.8 billion in 2018, a 6% sales increase over 2017, according to The NPD Group. Makeup, the industry’s largest category based on sales, grew 1%. Makeup sales reached $8.1 billion in 2018, and though it experienced soft growth the category holds promise, as the number of consumers using makeup reached 67% in 2018—an increase of 6% points over two years ago. Among the fastest growing areas were makeup setting spray/powder and false eyelashes. And small remains a big opportunity in makeup; travel size product sales grew faster than all others, up 29% versus last year.
“If I had to use one word to characterize the state of the US beauty industry today, it would be disruption. Whether we look at categories, brands, or retailers, there are sweeping changes taking place to the market landscape,” said Larissa Jensen, executive director and beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group. “New retail concepts and technologies are changing the way we create, market, purchase and use beauty products. Brands and retailers must not only be cognizant of these transformations and act upon them, but identify new white space opportunities to captivate consumers and further differentiate themselves from the crowd.”
The US lipstick market is projected to surpass $5.1 billion by 2023, according to a North American lipstick market report from ResearchAndMarkets.com. Anticipated growth in the market can be attributed to manufacturers’ product innovation. For instance, lipsticks feature moisturizer and other properties.
Moreover, people are opting for organic and natural cosmetics including lipstick, which is anticipated to fuel lipstick market in the region.
Additionally, an improving consumer confidence index is resulting in increasing consumer spending on discretionary products, which is further anticipated to positively influence North America’s lipstick market in the coming years.
Delving deep into its treasure trove of reviews, digital review website Influenster predicts the overall “au naturale” trend won’t stop, and the category will continue with the “no makeup, makeup” look into 2019. Thick, heavy makeup use fell in 2018 as Influenster saw reviews of foundation sticks drop 24% and powder foundation decline 40%.
Surprisingly, we may also have ridden out the contouring wave as contouring product reviews plunged 54%, said Influenster. On the other hand, tinted moisturizer reviews increased by a whopping 408% and translucent powders jumped 40%, as consumers strive for that flawless and healthy-looking glow for 2019.
“Shoppers are looking for ease of use, performance, sensorial experiences, good for skin ingredients and new areas of innovation in color—this can be in the form of innovative products, or unique finishes or shades of color,” noted Marie Swisher, VP-global brand marketing, Mary Kay, Inc., Dallas. “Mary Kay partners with the key industry and trend experts around the world to focus on color cosmetics that help take the runway to the real-way.”
Got social media? According to Pamela Faller, product expert and makeup artist, Mehron Makeup, Chestnut Ridge, NY, those searching for new cosmetics are heading straight to their favorite beauty influencers on Instagram, watching their tutorials and reading their posts and then looking to see what products they’re using.
“If it’s a product that delivers a beautiful result they’re heading straight to that company’s IG profile or website to search for that product,”
Faller told Happi. “We’ve seen it happen with Mehron’s IG, we host some of the most beautiful and talented influencers out there doing amazing beauty and extreme beauty look with our high-pigment color cosmetics ranging from our Paradise Makeup AQ to our Intense Pressed Pigments.”
James Vincent, makeup artist/director of artistry at The Makeup Show, New York, agreed that the top trend in cosmetics in the past few seasons is big—and bold!
“Makeup products have focused on colors and textures that would once be considered unwearable,” he told Happi. “Bold brights, dramatic deep shades and texture ranging from shimmers to glitters and high shine glosses have captured the collective imagination.”
“We are also seeing a trend of high intensity liners, metallics and exaggerated lash and brow. All of these products are expected to be long wear and wearable by a global makeup community,” he added.
Never Let Them See You Sweat!
Vincent also pointed to “ath-beauty” (athletic-inspired beauty) as a leading draw in makeup right now, tying into the overall allure of wellness.
“With the impact of athleisure, we see people want to look healthy and natural, at least with complexion product,” he said. “This season it was a truly glowing, natural look.”
Many big brands are tapping into the trend for 2019. For example, Puma and Maybelline New York collaborated to launch its first-ever Puma x Maybelline special-edition collection which fuses beauty, fashion and sport into one high-performance makeup collection. Developed with the latest in long-wear technology, the Puma x Maybelline 12-piece collection features a smudge-proof mascara, a metallic highlighter and fan-favorite Super Stay Matte Ink long-wear lip color in new limited-edition shades.
In addition, Maybelline introduced two new duo sticks to its offerings—a new long-wear matte and metallic eye stick for versatile day to night looks as well as a waterproof color and gloss face stick for a dewy flushed look. The multi-use formats come in sleek, on-the-go packaging and make it easy to achieve a complete makeup look or a quick post-workout touch up, according to the brand. Best known for her passion for athletics, fashion and beauty looks, long-time Maybelline spokesmodel and Puma’s latest ambassador, Adriana Lima, will serve as the face of the campaign.
“Puma and Maybelline are synonymous with on-trend, high-performance products,” said Leonardo Chavez, global brand president, Maybelline New York. “Maybelline’s collaboration with Puma makes innovative, street style-inspired makeup accessible to consumers worldwide to complement their always-on, demanding lifestyles.”
Following the success of its LashBlast Active Mascara, CoverGirl recently rolled out the full Outlast Active Collection designed for the everyday athlete. Designed to be high-performing, sweat-proof and long-wearing, this eye makeup stays put throughout the most intense parts of the day. The line features a 24-hour foundation, a sweat-proof mascara and liquid eyeliner, and a setting mist to seal the look. The lightweight Outlast Active 24 HR Foundation is available in 18 shades for Fair to Deep skin tones. It is formulated with a blend of flexible, waterproof polymers, is oil-free and provides SPF 20 protection.
The Active Eye Liner combines a lightweight feel with intense color for maximum impact, according to the company. The long-wear formula is waterproof and sweat-proof to fit active lifestyles.
Wet n Wild is another player in the ath-beauty arena. Its new Pump collection was created to take consumers from sweat to fresh in no time. Complete with 20 portable, customizable and long-lasting cosmetic products, this full circuit collection includes everything you need to shape up your skin for the new year. Plus, its fitness pro-approved by Blogilates’ Cassey Ho. The range is sold at CVS and spans from Makeup Locker 3-in-1 Sheer BB Cream Highlighter & Corrector to Keep Going Waterproof Eyeshadow Stick.
Suiting the Span of Tones
The latest launch at CoverGirl—besides a NYC flagship, ath-beauty range and Leaping Bunny certification—is a new line of products inspired by multicultural women: Full Spectrum. According to the company, understanding that inclusivity goes far beyond shade ranges, Full Spectrum was developed with the unique shade and skin needs of multicultural women in mind. Providing products for eyes, lips and face, the vast shade ranges are accompanied by rich pigments that were designed to pop against darker skin tones. All of the products were created to cater to the unique skin needs of women of color, delivering products that will create amazing looks for any occasion.
CoverGirl also recently rolled out Outlast Nudes, a line of seven neutral lip colors. Knowing that there are so many different shades of nude, the company is simplifying the selection process for consumers. Utilizing a technical understanding of color science and skin-tone mapping, CoverGirl created the hues to complement a spectrum of skin tones and undertones—from light to dark and cool to warm. With shades like “light cool” and “dark warm,” Outlast Nudes is taking all the guesswork out of finding your perfect nude. For those consumers who are unsure of their skin undertone, CoverGirl suggests its “Universal Nude” shade, which is designed to work with all skin tones.
Maybelline New York Made for All by Color Sensational is a new line of universal lipsticks specifically made to complement every complexion. Rigorously tested on 50 women of diverse skin tones, this collection was developed to ensure that each shade looks sensational on everyone, according to MNY. Made for All is in stores in seven diverse shades.
Breaking Beauty is a continuing campaign from mass market makeup leader Wet n Wild. For 2019, the company is promoting diversity by partnering with six makeup artists and six models. The company is expanding its portfolio with a variety of new SKUs, include a Photo Focus Stick Foundation, Mega Glo Loose Highlighting Powder and Mega Last Liquid Catsuit High-Shine Lipstick, to name a few.
Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty continues to give consumers the most color options in just about every makeup category. The brand just launched Pro Filt’r Concealer in 50 shades within each skin color category: Light, Medium, Tan and Deep. The creamy formula is long-wearing and crease-proof.
Fenty Beauty is also launching eight translucent setting powders, and 10 more shades of Pro Filtr foundation.
Cai Para Mi is a new cosmetics brand created with the Latin customer in mind. From professional to beginner, young to old, the company contends it is the one-stop-shop for the Latina consumer’s beauty needs.
The collection of cruelty-free color cosmetics is formulated with olive, yellow and brown undertones. The full range consists of foundations, concealers, bronzers, highlighters, blushes, eyeshadows and lipsticks and is sold at Target and CVS stores.
In the eyecolor sector, Urban Decay is bringing back a cult classic with a new twist, the game-changing Naked Reloaded Eyeshadow Palette. The 12 brand-new shades range from silky mattes to smooth satins to microfine shimmers and playful glitters. The universal shades are made for any age, skin tone or gender.
New L’Oréal Paris Rouge Signature Matte Liquid Lipstick is billed as an innovative, lightweight matte lip ink that delivers the no-makeup feel of a stain combined with the color impact of a liquid lipstick. This ultra-comfortable, non-drying liquid lip ink is available in 12 signature shades with a precision applicator.
Revlon’s new Ultra HD Lip Mousse Hyper Matte is a velvety matte, high definition color with a creamy, whipped mousse texture that provides lightweight moisture to lips. Micro-fine mattifying powders glide on effortlessly for a super-smooth, extreme matte finish, according to the company.
Reintroduced in compact format, Guerlain launched its legendary Meteorites Pearls as an on-the-go powder for delicately correcting, mattifying and illuminating the complexion. The new Guerlain Meteorites Compact features finely pressed pearls in a harmony of three glowing shades that enhance every skin tone with just the right dose of light. The matte shades correct, while the iridescent shades recreate tailor-made luminosity. With its anti-shine action, this new-generation formula mattifies while preserving hydration. Its blurring texture reduces the appearance of pores and imperfections for glowing skin with a velvet feel.
Laura Mercier Flawless Lumière Radiance-Perfecting Foundation is said to deliver a perfectly luminous finish that looks flawless in any light. This weightless texture looks and feels like a second skin. Providing 15 hours of hydration, the moisturizing formula visibly smooths and softens skin. Over time, skin’s natural luminosity will improve for lasting radiance. Available in 30 hues, ranging from fair to deep, the Flawless Lumière Radiance-Perfecting Foundation provides medium to full coverage for all skin types.
In this Laura Mercier foundation, Super Crystal Clear Pearl has a super-fine texture with a flawless flat surface for a strong, light-reflecting effect, without a chalky look. Vitamin C helps reveal brighter, clearer, more even-toned skin over time—so even without makeup, skin is radiant, according to Laura Mercier. Silver ear mushroom extract—400x more moisturizing than sodium hyaluronate, according to the company—effectively plumps skin to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Flexible polymers melt into skin to create a longwearing, comfortable and weightless second skin while Color True pigments resist oxidation.
Inclusivity and diversity are paramount in beauty now and later. According to Swisher of Mary Kay, “This is one of the most important trends, especially being a global beauty company for women—to make sure our color products are as diverse as our customers globally.”
For a recent launch, the Chromafusion color collection, the Mary Kay team trialed each shade across a global palette of skin tones while in the development phase of the shades and finishes.
“It was important to us to not just pick a beautiful array of shades, but to make sure that the selection of each particular shade could be used by every woman,” Swisher told Happi. “Each shade went through many tweaks until we had a shade that flattered all skin tones.”
Products that also do “double or triple duty” are a must now into 2020, noted Vincent of The Makeup Show. Bold brows and long lashes are “big business” this season into the next, as they are an easy way to soften the intense lines and bold color and texture of shadow and shape we are seeing, he added.
Overall, innovation is key to move the makeup business forward this year.
“Given the high adaptability of the beauty industry, I expect growth to continue in 2019, though it may be at a slower pace given the current economic uncertainties,” said Jensen of NPD about the color cosmetic sector. “I expect we’ll see an amplification of trends and themes that have already taken shape, including brand transparency, heightened importance of companies taking a stance on key social issues, as well as the evolution of experiential retail and pop-up concepts.”
New year, new beauty. Beauty incubator Colour Collective’s founder Kerry Yates of Dallas, TX has the scoop on what to expect to see in beauty for 2019:
1. ‘90s Glitter - There’s nothing more ‘90s than the glitz and glam of glitter and we have one of this year’s biggest nail trends to thank for that. Whether it’s ombré, dip dye, or full-blown glitter manis, expect to see a little bit of sparkle everywhere you go this year!
2. Smart Mirrors - We can expect to receive extensive and interactive guides from smart mirrors, enabling users to create the most flawless makeup application and/or skin care regimen.
3. Waterless Products - With everyone on the go these days, beauty is being revolutionized with travel-friendly mediums that allow for minimal water waste, fewer spills and less contamination. Available in solid form, expect to see waterless products that expand into their standard form when combined with water.
4. Unpolluted Ingredients - As environmental concerns continue, trending ingredients could be those left untouched by our pollution riddled atmosphere, like: Silt from Japanese lakes dating back 1,000 years ago, New Zealand glacial waters and Siberian Ginseng found in ice.