Today’s shampoos and conditioners—and a growing collection of scalp care products—are packed with efficacious ingredients designed to address a range of concerns and restore hair to its prime condition whether pin straight, 4C or somewhere in between. In addition, there are more brands touting sustainable solid format bars that are on par with their liquid counterparts.

There’s good reason for so much NPD in the hair care market—there’s no other category in beauty and personal care like it. Hair care enjoys 96% usage rate, according to a recent consumer study conducted by The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. In that study, shampoo usage clocked in at 94% and conditioner was 89%.

“The only industry that has higher usage is food,” quipped Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at The NPD Group.

According to NPD, which tracks the prestige side of the market, hair care revenue in Q3 rose 36% to $619.4 million. For the nine months through September, hair care jumped 49%, and both shampoos and conditioners increased 50%, according to Jensen.

“The hair category is doing so well,” Jensen told Happi, pointing to strong consumer interest that’s driven by innovation and new brands entering the space like Drunk Elephant and Sunday Riley.

A wealth mindset is helping too. While there are general concerns about the economy, consumers are still spending money on luxury hair care, she insisted.

The mass market hair care category is considerably larger, but also positive. Shampoo sales in US multioutlets posted a 1.2% gain to $3.38 billion and hair conditioner sales rose 3.0% to $2.48 billion, according to IRI data for the 52 weeks ended Sept. 5, 2021. (For a breakdown, click here).


The State of Affairs

The US is slowly untangling itself from COVID-19. But the pandemic’s impact still lingers, and that’s shaped consumer habits as well as usage and consumption of shampoos and conditioners.

“The pandemic had customers focusing on health and wellness. They were taking time to take care of themselves and try new things. They also sat in front of Zoom screens for hours on end so [they] stared at themselves for extended periods of time. Also, for a while, salons were not open so many customers had roots showing or needed some extra styling help,” said Dan Langer, group president, LBP Prestige Hair Group/president, R+Co.

Launches from R+Co include On A Cloud Baobab Oil Repair shampoo, Teacup Peacholine + Kombucha Detox Rinse, and Super Garden CBD Shampoo and Conditioner.

“Its powerful antioxidants provide soothing effects and protect hair at the roots,” Langer said about Super Garden, which contains hemp-derived CBD.


Head First

There’s been a lot of chatter about the “skinification” of hair—using ingredients better known for their role in skin care, like hyaluronic acid, along with products that address the health of scalp as a key step in one’s hair regimen.
There may be more buzz, but it isn’t a new tack for R+Co, insists Langer.

“Skinification of hair care refers to the increasingly sophisticated formulas and ingredients used in hair care products that have been traditionally used in skin care. For us, this hasn’t been a trend, but part of our history,” he said. “Our products have always been formulated for the highest levels of performance and have included vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, biotin, oils and extracts, as the scalp is as deserving of a good skin care regimen.”

The scalp is part and parcel to hair health, insist a range of experts in the hair category.

“Your scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. Scalp issues can lead to weakness of strands, breakage and hair loss,” said Bouclème Founder Michele Scott-Lynch. Her UK-based line, which debuted in October 2014, recently launched in the US.

“Not all cleansers are created equal, some contain harsh detergents that can be overly stripping and remove all natural oils which disturbs the bacterial environment and can lead to irritation, redness and flaking,” she said.

Bouclème’s range focuses on natural actives that restore moisture and life to dry, lackluster hair. Among the brand’s newest SKUs is a Dry Scalp Serum, a concentrated, plant-based alternative to dandruff treatments. A key component is propanediol caprylate, which reduces dandruff, redness and itching with high efficacy against the microorganism Malassezia, which plays an important role in development of dandruff. The company says it has the same efficacy as Piroctone and Climbazole, which can be found in other formulations. Dry Scalp Serum also contains argan oil, jojoba oil and vitamin E; the concentrate is designed to be added into a hair cleanser, making it easy to drop into an existing routine. Users will feel relief after the first use with significant improvement after four weeks, according to the brand.

“Curly hair tends to be drier than other hair types so layering products on top of one another, as you would in skin care, really helps to slow down evaporation and locks moisture into hair for longer,” said Scott-Lynch. “Long term, this improves the condition and leads to stronger healthier hair. Your scalp is an extension of your face and therefore should be treated with the same care. Scalps can also be dry, oily or combination, it’s where healthy hair begins.”

Bumble & Bumble is also addressing scalp-to-end care with its new Bb. Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich collection. An extension of its top-selling Bb. Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil collection, Ultra Rich is infused with skin care-grade hyaluronic acid, kalahari melon seed oil, and the brand’s signature six-oil blend. The range includes shampoo and conditioner as well as a Hyaluronic Treatment Lotion. The velvety, ultra-rich, color-safe formulas are said to deliver scalp-to-ends nourishment for all hair types and textures 4C-1A.

According to Cuvée  Beauty President Courtney Sheahan, Cuvée Beauty uses great ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, moisturize and treat to get great results. Products are made using Cuvée Complex, which Sheahan described as a “ luxurious blend of skin care-grade ingredients like grapeseed extract from Champagne, France and truffle extracts, colloidal platinum, pea protein, ceramides and more”

This quarter, Cuvée’s shampoo and conditioner were added to Nordstrom’s “Best Tressed Tower” in all stores, and are sold online every day at Nordstrom.com.

“The Nordstrom demographic marries up perfectly with the Cuvée consumer. Aside from being the industry leader in all things luxury, Nordstrom is a force in the indie beauty space and our premium grade, high performance products deliver the results that the Nordstrom beauty customer expects,” said Sheahan.


Tress Product Trends

“Skinification of hair care is really a thing,” Curls Founder Mahisha Dellinger told Happi. “It used to be that hair care meant shampoo, conditioner, a treatment and maybe a styling product. Right now, there are a host of ‘must have’ ingredients that permeate both the skin and hair care market. From antioxidants and collagen, to vitamins, botanical extracts and minerals. Elements that you are used to associating with skin care has surfaced in hair care. After all, healthy hair begins in the scalp, the skin on your head.”

This fall, Curls announced a partnership with actress and philanthropist Angela Simmons to encourage women who wear wigs, weaves and protective styles to care for their hair and scalp with its new Hair Under There collection. The range includes Detox Tea Cleanser, Strengthen Me Moisture Mask, Bomb Braid in Conditioner and Soothe & Cool Me Scalp Potion and a pomade.

“In addition to fun, variety and flair, protective styles give those with textured tresses a break from the constant handling and manipulation that can cause breakage to delicate kinky, curly strands. Therefore, in order for protective styles to be truly beneficial, the hair and scalp must be properly cleansed, conditioned and hydrated, prior to any long-term installations,” said Dellinger.

The pandemic drove a shift in usage at Curls. While gels, creams and mousses had been top sellers, “during the pandemic, hair masks and deep conditioners rose to the top,” Dellinger said.

Curls used the pandemic as an opportunity to teach; it hosted virtual masterclasses on IG Live.

“The classes were super helpful for consumers and allowed them to learn how to use Curls products to style their hair themselves,” she said.

African Pride specializes in mass market hair care products for textured hair ranging from type 3B-4C.

“Our coily consumers have a specific need for moisture as her hair is prone to moisture loss, dryness and ultimately breakage as a result. Therefore, our products contain a special cocktail of ingredients tailored to combat these problem areas she has,” said Jazzmene Ford, marketing manager, African Pride.

She, too, pointed to the role of a healthy, clean and nourished scalp, calling it the “foundation” to a healthy regimen.

Recently, the brand expanded its Olive Miracle and Moisture Miracle Collections, which are available at Walmart and Walgreens. Moisture Miracle Nourish & Shine Shampoo contains coconut oil, honey and shea butter and Olive Miracle 2-N-1 Shampoo & Conditioner features olive and tea tree. Products help users achieve a squeaky-clean scalp without stripping their hair of its natural oils, according to Ford.

Award-winning vegan brand Rhyme & Reason incorporates skin conditioning ingredients like pro-vitamin B5, betaine and more into its products to benefit the scalp and hair.

“Hair care is becoming as personalized as skin care and Rhyme & Reason products are formulated to specifically meet the different needs of all hair types,” said Becky Eastgate, Rhyme & Reason’s brand director.

As a brand that offers five regimens that cater to all hair types from 1 to 4C, Rhyme & Reason’s Nourish & Gloss regime is the perfect “all-rounder,” according to Eastgate. The shampoo and conditioner set is blended with coconut water, wild rosella flower and hyaluronic acid to soothe, moisturize and protect.

In 2022, Rhyme & Reason will launch more products, including a new leave-in conditioner, and expand distribution in Target, according to Eastgate.


Playing for Keeps

Hair loss is major concern among consumers. KeepItAnchored is designed to reduce daily hair loss by calming a stressed scalp. The formulas are powered by a combination of antioxidant salts that relieve oxidative stress, a zinc compound to improve scalp condition and B vitamins known for skin barrier health.

Dr. Jeni Thomas, a principal scientist for the brand, explained clinical research has shown that oxidative stress—from UV, pollution or the environment around the scalp— can break down the scalp skin barrier causing the scalp to lose its “grip” on hair at the roots. Over time, the fall-out from scalp oxidative stress shows up as more hair in one’s brush and in the shower drain, and less at the hair line.

It may be a new entrant to the US market (the range debuted at the start of the year), but KeepItAnchored’s technology is result of more than 20 years of research linking scalp condition to hair quality, according to the brand. That research culminated in a six-month clinical study proving that a reduction in scalp oxidative stress can reduce daily hair loss. Designed by a team of dermatologists and hair scientists, the double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study included 300 men and women and matched the clinical rigor of today’s most effective hair loss treatments, noted the brand. With continued use, scalp condition improved, hair was strengthened at the roots, and hair fall was reduced.

KeepItAnchored’s range includes shampoos and conditioners for both men and women. Shampoos contain antioxidant technology called Hair Anchor Blend that reduces oxidative stress at the scalp to strengthening hair’s anchor to the scalp. The conditioners use strengthening lipids found to absorb into the strands (in place of natural lipids that are degraded by oxidative stress) to restore flexibility, which improves hair resilience and resistance to breakage.

“The shampoo does everything a high-quality shampoo does—gently cleanse, help with manageability, feel and smell great—and it includes the clinically proven antioxidant technology to reduce daily hair loss by reducing oxidative stress at the scalp and hair roots,” said Thomas. “The conditioners strengthen hair against loss from breakage with a lightweight, moisturizing formula.”

The Keep It Anchored range also includes a pre-cleanser—a water-clear, deep cleanser that is designed to be used before shampoo. It unclogs scalp pores and purifies the scalp so it can be ready to receive the anchoring technology in the shampoo.


What’s Doing in Dry Shampoo

During the pandemic, grooming habits changed; the daily shower may have been shelved, but cleaning up—at least from the waist up—for a daily work Zoom required a quick dab of makeup and some dry shampoo. Sales of dry shampoos rose 8.9% and units ticked up 2.5% in the past year, according to IRI (see chart).

Commercial dry shampoos can be traced back to the 1940s, but the format found widespread success with younger consumers during the past decade as leading players put a modern spin on their products, packaging and messaging.

Dry shampoo has been a cornerstone of Not Your Mother’s since the brand’s earliest days in 2010. In fact, the brand’s first dry shampoo, Clean Freak original, is consistently a best seller for the company.

“Consumers have always loved our dry shampoo because of its performance, price and convenience,” said Sarah Kieny, director of marketing.

Kieny sees a bright future for the category in general as daily activities continue to return to a more normal cadence.

“Since dry shampoo reduces the effort required to have great looking hair, it’s especially important as everything’s picked up again in 2021 as the world began to return to busy lifestyles, travelling, returning to school and office,” she said.

To reap the rewards, Not Your Mother’s recently launched its first national creative media campaign called Live Your Hair’s Best Life. Created in partnership with creative agency Humanaut, the campaign is being backed by a significant media buy and PR support. Additionally, company officials are prepping for the rollout of a new benefits-based collection that will launch in Q1.

R+ Co has a new product called Rainless Dry Cleansing Conditioner, which works like a dry shampoo, according to Langer. It refreshes hair and scalp and removes sebum, but it also has added benefits that are great for curls. It is formulated with lemon balm and black currant seed oil to condition hair, plus ashwagandha and ginkgo biloba to stimulate scalp circulation.

“When developing Rainless Dry Cleansing Conditioner, we thought about the needs of curly hair. The first thing we wanted was a true hands-free application. We found that people with curls were not using dry shampoos because after spraying they must massage it into the scalp, and this creates frizz,” Langer said. “With Rainless Dry Cleansing Conditioner, they can just spray it on without disrupting their curl pattern. The ultra-fine mist penetrates down to the scalp. It’s infused with light astringent banana extract to quickly absorb, leaving nothing behind but a healthy shine.”

Bouclème has also rolled out a Foaming Dry Shampoo, an alcohol-free non-aerosol foam-to-powder product designed for those with curls and oily scalps. Launched in October, the formulation has tapioca and cornstarch to absorb excess sebum and add texture and volume as well as aloe vera juice and menthol help neutralize scalp odor and keep hair refreshed.


The Bar Method

Indies and multinationals are banking on this rising popularity of bar formats, especially among sustainably-minded younger consumers.

Ethique spent two years developing Professor Curl, its new solid shampoo bar for curly hair, and Curliosity, a 2-in-1 conditioner bar and co-wash. The formulations are packed with hydrating ingredients such as shea butter to nourish and hydrate hair without feeling heavy or greasy; cocoa butter, which serves as an excellent emollient and a protective barrier; and castor oil (in the conditioner only) that easily removes oil-based substances like sebum without stripping hair of any moisture.

HiBar is a fast-growing company that sells solid format shampoo and conditioners that it contends are the first to include salon-quality ingredients. The Minneapolis-based company invented its own process to produce its unique shape, according to Co-Founder Nora Schaper, who is VP of sales. The company, which sold its first bar in 2019, today has 35 employees and and just expanded into its its third manufacturing area within in its current building.

A key to the brand’s success has been its ability to craft solid products that deliver the results and experience consumers expect with liquid products.

“We knew when we were formulating that it had to be as good as what’s in a bottle,” Schaper told Happi.

One of HiBar’s newest products is Soothe, a solid conditioner formulated specifically for itchy, flaky scalps. It contains white willow bark extract and kukui nut oil. In addition to soothing the scalp, it leaves hair feeling soft and manageable, according to the company.

Taking water out of a conditioner can make it more effective, insists Schaper.

“With a solid formula, you can really direct it where you need it,” she said.

HiBar continues to expand its waterless range as it wants to inspire everyone to use fewer single-use plastics. But there are formulation constraints that stem from its self-imposed purposeful ingredient choice. For example, HiBar would like to offer blondes a purple bar that would tone brassiness—but it has been unable, so far, to find a suitable replacement for synthetic color.

“We can’t find a natural purple that would works,” Schaper told Happi.

L’Oréal’s Garnier earlier this year rolled out Whole Blends Shampoo Bars to the US market. The bars are made with 94% plant-based ingredients and are 97% biodegradable. The collection includes Restoring Honey Treasures Shampoo Bar for dry and damaged hair, Hydrating Coco & Aloe Vera Shampoo Bar Sulfate Free for normal hair, Softening Oat Delicacy Shampoo Bar for fine to normal hair and Strengthening Ginger Recovery Shampoo Bar for weak hair. Each bar lasts for up to two months and is suitable for those three and up, according to the brand.


New & Novelty

From salons to supermarkets, store shelves are stocked with new cleansers and conditioners, and products for every step in between.

Take Elvive Dream Lengths 8 Second Wonder Water. According to L’Oréal Paris, it has achieved cult-like status among users. This rinse-out product is said to instantly transform long damaged hair in eight seconds for smoother and sleeker hair with no weigh down. The formula is powered by vitamins and lamellas to prep and prime the hair for easy combing and styling. It is designed to be applied between shampoo and conditioner.

Brands are also highlighting unexpected ingredients in their shampoo and conditioners.

Black woman-owned brand Meraki has rolled out new addition to its “Gems” line. Its new Rose Quartz Nourishing Shampoo is a sulfate-free, vegan formula to support healthy hydrated hair and scalp by maintaining the scalp’s pH and retaining hair’s natural moisture. Key ingredients include panthenol, bamboo, moni oil, rose quartz extracts and rose quartz gemstones.

And rich in another way is SoulFed, a new collection from Kaleidoscope Hair Products that is inspired by favorite seasonal foods. The range includes Mac ‘N Clean Sulfate-Free shampoo, which is formulated with coconut milk, vitamin A and vitamin B12 to nourish the scalp and promote healthy hair growth; Marshmallow Leave In Conditioner, which is infused with marshmallow root extract and sweet almond oil to nourish the scalp and leave hair feeling soft and shiny; Pecan Growth Booster Oil, which is perfect for protective styles and under weave/wig care; and Cranberry Deep Conditioner, which contains its namesake component as well as vitamin C and olive and avocado oils.

If these new launches have you hungry to get back in the lab and create your next shampoo or conditioner, check out our list of new ingredients below. 

---

Hair Care Ingredients
Below is a list of recently introduced ingredients for hair care formulations. For more information on specific materials, please contact the company directly using the information provided.


Chemyunion
chemyunion.com
[email protected]

Proshine
INCI: Castor Oil Propanediol Esters
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, masks, leave-in products and finishing products.
Use Level: 0.5% to 1.0%
Comments: 100% plant-based esters, with a high refractive index, that activate an intense hair shine by interacting with hair fiber proteins. Designed within the precepts of Green Chemistry, ensuring high performance of shine and color enhancement in all types of hair.

Allinea
INCI: Water (and) Lactic Acid (and) Ethyl Linoleate (and) Ethyl Oleate (and) Trehalose (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Glycolic Acid (and) Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Sodium Lignosulfonate (and) Behentrimonium Chloride.
Applications: Conditioners, hair masks, leave-ins, combing creams and pre-blowout sprays.
Use Level: from 5% (w/w)
Comments: Active ingredient developed for the temporary realignment of hair fibers, thus reducing volume and frizz. A synergistic association of alpha-hydroxy acids, ethyl esters, disaccharide, smectite clay, coconut triglycerides, and the reuse of a plant-based biopolymer called lignin.

---

DSM Personal Care
dsm.com/personal-care
[email protected]

Alpaflor Edelweiss CB 
INCI: Glycerin, Water, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract
Applications: Leave-on 
Use Level: 3%
Comments: Sustainable, organic and no controversial preservatives. Studies show increased hair density and reduction in the appearance of graying hair. 90% of volunteers presented an increase in hair density after five months and half showed 50% darker hair after four months.

---

International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
[email protected] | www.icsc.dk
+ 45 86 22 99 86

Danox Preservative 7000F Organic
INCI: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Foeniculum Vulgare Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Use Level: Minimum 5,000 ppm
Applications: Natural antioxidant and preservative
Comments: Danox Preservative 7000F Organic is a natural antioxidant and preservative and can be a replacement for chemical additives and synthetic antimicrobial agents in organic formulations. It was successfully tested against Escherichia Coli, Staphylococcus Aureus, Pseudomonas Aeruginosa, Candida Albicans and Aspergillus Brasiliensis.

Cosmosil CAL Oil
INCI: Calendula officinalis flower extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Use Level: up to 5%
Applications: Scalp soothing
Comments: Calendula flower is traditionally used in Ayurveda for its calming, soothing and moisturizing properties. Cosmosil CAL oil and butter can be used in hair masks, anti-dandruff serums and conditioners designed to provide relief from dry, itchy and irritated scalp.

Cosmosil HB Oil
INCI: Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Brassica campestris seed oil
Use Level: Up to 5%
Applications: Natural antioxidant and hair nourishing
Comments: Cosmosil HB Oil is an extract of the best quality fresh leaves of holy basil, Ocimum sanctum in High Oleic Rapeseed Oil. The holy basil plants are grown in ICSC’s in-house vertical farming facilities, in a completely sophisticated sustainable process.

---

Koster Keunen
www.kosterkeunen.com/industries/personal-care/ 
[email protected]

Kostol TMC-25
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride
Applications: Perfect replacement for 25% Behentrimonium Methosulfate products, hair & skin care, leave-on, wash-off
Use Level: 1-10%
Comments: Kostol TMC-25 is a cationic oil-in-water emulsifier. It will replace out-of-stock 25% active BTMS without substantial changes to your formulation or its performance. Laboratory results show that 1:1 replacement in tested formulas were equivalent in rheology profiles and performance.

---

Lubrizol
www.Lubrizol.com/beauty

Chromapol ColorPOP polymer
INCI: Polyurethane-10
Applications: Hair care
Use Level: 1-3 wt% in hair colors, 0.6-3 wt% in shampoos
Comments: It delivers long-lasting color protection in permanent, semi-permanent and more temporary colors and rinse-off products. It maintains a true color with vibrant tonality and intensity while providing conditioning and smoothing benefits to the hair fiber.

Seascalp biomarine ingredient
INCI: Water (aqua), Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Salicylate
Applications: Hair care
Use Level: 1-3 wt%
Comments: A biotechnological ingredient that helps minimize the accumulation of sebaceous lipids and strengthens the skin barrier function. The ingredient helps in naturally providing a healthy scalp with less itchiness, flakes and greasiness, while aiding in the daily management of dandruff-prone scalps. It has shown its efficacy both in leave-on and in rinse-off applications.

Kelco-Care diutan gum
INCI: Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
Applications: hair care
Use Level: 0.1-2.0 wt%
Comments: A naturally derived rheology modifier produced by fermentation, it has exceptionally good thermal stability, is compatible with high levels of alcohol and polyols and is readily biodegradable. Suitable for conditioners, treatments and hair color, and with excellent conditioning performance, it can impart protection and repair benefits to hair fibers even at low use levels.

---

Solvay
Princeton, NJ
www.solvay.com | [email protected]
800-973-7873

Polycare Split Therapy
INCI: Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Applications: Hair care serum, mask, conditioner, hair color products, shampoo.
Use Level: 0.5-1%
Comments: A naturally-based (ISO 16128-2 = 0.78), non-ecotoxic, vegan & cruelty-free hair repair active that heals at least 90% of split ends after the first use. It resists combing, washing and heat exposure. This ethically-sourced ingredient is part of the Solvay Sustainable Guar Initiative.

Mackaderm LIA MB
INCI: Isoamyl laurate
Applications: Hair care serum, mask, conditioner, shampoo. 
Use Level: 1-5%
Description: It is a 100% vegetable-origin ingredient (from sustainable palm oil), non-toxic, fully biodegradable, and Cosmos validated. It is a winning silicone alternative that acts like a soft touch emollient with a high spreadability and fast absorption by the hair.

Jaguar C 162 SGI
INCI: Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Applications: Hair care serum, mask, conditioner, shampoo. 
Use Level: 0.2-0.5%
Comments: It is a bio-based conditioning polymer (ISO 16128-2 = 0.76), suitable for transparent formulations, which provides good conditioning with a nude feel and no build-up. This ethically-sourced ingredient is part of the Solvay Sustainable Guar Initiative.