The term “African Aesthetics” is taking hold in the modern contemporary art world. It provides a diverse, vibrant and unique take on the world by African artists. The term, however, goes beyond the art world. African aesthetic reflects the continent’s meaningful relationship with beauty, innovation in connectivity through technology and evolution among Africans in the diaspora and across the continent.

Today, African consumers’ perception of aesthetic beauty is deeply influenced by their ancestral traditions and colonialism, along with emerging global market trends. Access to knowledge about aesthetic medical treatments continues to grow because of technological advances. Consumers engage and form their desires much like the rest of the world—with a simple swipe on a smart phone. They want a beauty ideal that is a culmination of culture, tradition and modern-day desires.


Beyond the Pandemic

When I reported on the African aesthetics industry in my column last year, I touched on the foundations that influence African consumers, their perceptions and their unique lens of beauty appreciation. It was during one of the low points of the global covid-19 pandemic. Economic growth amidst a pandemic, supply chain issues and seismic political decisions created the desire for “Naturalism.” The movement is characterized by barely-there makeup, clear skin, an even complexion, fairer skin tone and a symmetrical face that looks natural and undone.

Just like most adorned African figural sculptures whose presentation of skin is always shining, well buffed and plump, the African consumer looks for the ultimate attribute that the appearance of healthy skin offers. Beautiful skin is a symbol of wealth, status, taste and health, along with one’s ability to access leisure in the form of self-care and joy. In contrast, some figural sculptures are flawed representations rough surfaces and deformities. They are often used to depict evil.

Youthfulness has always been valued among African tribes for its representation of fertility, ability to work, add value and be productive. Today, the African aesthetic of beauty has shifted from scarification as a means for communicating beauty and status. The new benchmark is tone, clarity and an even appearance of skin.

To achieve this today, non-invasive aesthetic treatments are preferred. With minimal downtime, no lasting scars to leave behind any signs of having had work done, low cost and less complications are some of the key points that are converting the African consumer today.

Local providers in the form of clinics, cosmetic centers, dermatology clinics, hospitals, medical spas and beauty centers run by local medical doctors and aesthetic practitioners are bridging the demand and supply gap, according to Data Bridge’s Middle East and Africa’s Medical Aesthetic Market report.

“Most of our clients feel that open surgical procedures are a step too far and drastic. Most cases we see are about acne, acne scars and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” said Dr. Ifeoma Abajue, co-founder of the Aesthetic Clinic Group.

Abajue’s growing business includes six aesthetic clinics across the globe including two clinics in Nigeria, one in Ghana, two in Canada and one in the UK.


A Resilient Market

The African continent lacks access to decent general healthcare. Critical healthcare problems are caused by poorly trained medical professionals, limited resources and limited access to basic medicines. As a result, complications are commonplace.

According to the United Nations, less than 2% of drugs consumed in Africa are produced on the continent. Importing nearly 70% of the continent’s pharmaceutical products, the African aesthetic industry is no different.

Amidst these shortcomings, according to a Triton market research report, “some countries in African region lack healthcare infrastructure, this market is expected to exhibit considerable growth during the forecast period of CAGR at 10.23% from 2021-2028.”

While invasive procedures are on the rise, the risk that open cosmetic procedures pose to the African consumer far outweigh the benefits of “looking good.” Non-invasive aesthetic treatments like skin rejuvenation, scar revision, laser hair removal and injectables are user friendly and preferred.

Importantly, “the hospital segment held the largest share of the market in 2020,” according to Marketresearch.com.


An Aesthetic Safari

Increased disposable income means that the average African consumer can afford to invest in her skincare regimen. Now, she’s spending more on professional aesthetic treatments to tackle skin care concerns and wider aesthetic desires.

Dermatology, laser hair removal, corrective procedures and injectables, like fillers and Botox, are common in some of Africa’s leading aesthetic clinics, hospitals, medical spas and spas.

The African aesthetics industry is serving locals and a wider global consumer through cosmetic tourism.

A journey to Africa offers more than a chemical peel or a nip and tuck. Clients can expect to arrive in Africa and leave looking and feeling better than when they arrived. Luxury, self-care, indulgence and affordable treatments is the promise.

According to a recent Marketresearch.com study, The Middle East and Africa non-invasive aesthetic treatment market is expected to top $270 million by 2028. That’s up from about $151 million in 2021, and represents a CAGR of 8.6%.

South Africa, Nigeria, Ghana and Kenya are home to some of the leading aesthetic clinics on the continent. Local African aesthetic businesses run by internationally-trained medical and aesthetic doctors are on the rise.

Responding to consumer demand, some services include keloid removal and ear lobe repairs, as well as sexual and reproductive health treatments.

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Zeze Oriaikhi-Sao
Malée, Founder
[email protected]
 
Zeze Oriaikhi-Sao is an entrepreneur, influential speaker, sought-after brand consultant and freelance columnist with a focus on Innovation, sustainability and leadership in the cosmetics, luxury goods and start-up industries. As the founder of Malée, Africa’s first global luxury fragrance and body care brand, an advisory board member at Innocos, the world beauty innovations summit, Oriaikhi-Sao has established herself as a leader in the African-made luxury goods market. She has been featured on CNN, The Telegraph and The Daily Mail. She hosts the podcast Third Culture Africans, and inspires a vast audience with entrepreneurial and lifestyle Insights at zezeonline.