09.29.23
BASF Personal Care has launched a sustainably-sourced cosmetic ingredient that enhances beauty and self-confidence for people with blemish-prone skin.
Addressing the root causes of an imbalance affecting lipids, microbiota, and the skin’s natural defense system, Epispot reduces shine, improves the appearance of facial pores and promotes a healthy complexion. The new ingredient is in line with the #NoFilter trend in skincare and meets consumers’ desire for an authentic, flawless look without relying on digital beauty filters.
Efficacy and Applications
Epispot is an extract of Epilobium angustifolium, a plant that is responsibly sourced in France, and is suitable for a wide range of applications, from face serums to cleansers and even makeup formulations.
The efficacy of Epispot was validated in a randomized, split-face study with 34 female volunteers. They applied an emulsion with 0.2% Epispot and a placebo emulsion twice daily for eight weeks. After 56 days, excess skin greasiness was reduced by 37% compared with the placebo. The anti-shine effect was confirmed by the participants in a self-assessment: 88% perceived an immediate matte effect, which lasted all day for 78% of the women. Epispot was also shown to improve the appearance of facial pores after 56 days of application. In the questionnaire, all participants stated that their skin texture was improved, while the majority reported that their skin felt smoother (90%), and pores appeared to be tightened (88%). As a third mode of action, Epispot contributes to a healthy glow: 90% of study participants said their skin appeared healthier at the end of the application period. All test results were backed by comprehensive in vitro testing.
Advanced Ex Vivo 3D Model
The effect of Epispot on skin oiliness has been tested using a sophisticated ex vivo 3D model of the pilosebaceous unit, including the hair follicle, hair shaft, and sebaceous gland. This new model is the result of a two-year internal research program by the company’s R&D team. An innovative process makes the 3D skin structure transparent to better visualize skin architecture. Combined with advanced microscopic techniques, it allows for an in situ evaluation of the effect of Epispot on skin oiliness at the source.
Responsibly Harvested Raw Material
Epispot is obtained through water extraction from the aerial parts of Epilobium angustifolium. This plant is also known as fire grass or phoenix flower as it thrives following forest fires and logging operations. It is manually collected by skilled harvesters in France and adheres to the rigorous guidelines set by the AFC, an association of French plant pickers that promotes respectful harvesting techniques to ensure sustainable management of wild plants. Organic certified harvesting is carried out at six different locations to ensure species preservation through thoughtful rotation.
The sourcing approach of Epispot supports the goals of BASF’s Responsibly Active program for its cosmetic bioactives portfolio. The program aims to protect natural resources, support people along the value chain, and includes measures to reduce the company’s climate impact and operational footprint. For all three areas, the company has set clear goals for the coming decade, and recently published a report on progress made in 2022.