Masters at Work

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | June 6, 2013

The professional hair care segment is fueled by innovations that come from R&D teams as well as stylists.

In the 1960s, it was bouffants; in the 1970s came wings; the 1980s brought crimps; and the 1990s, layers. Millennials seem to prefer sleek and smooth locks. But regardless the decade, the cut or the style, they all rely on talented stylists and cutting-edge hair care products.

Professional hair care products are crucial to making it all happen; therefore, the category is constantly evolving to fit the growing needs of the consumer, who is buying shampoos, conditioner, serums and sprays to recreate salon artistry at home.

Last year, US salon hair care (services and products) sales rose 3.3% to $63.33 billion at nearly 288,300 salons and barbershops nationwide, according to the 2012 Professional Salon Industry Hair Care Study from Professional Consultants & Resources, Plano, TX.

“The professional beauty industry is strongly evolving,” said Cyrus Bulsara, president, Professional Consultants & Resources. “Men’s salon/barber services and product sales showed nearly twice the growth of unisex salons.”

Trends that debuted in 2011—hair color, keratin/smoothing  services and basic cutting and styling services—remained popular, noted Bulsara. Meanwhile, clients and stylists continued to move from traditional independent salons and mid-tier chains to chair/suite rentals, family-economy chains and upscale men’s barbershop chains.

“The continued growth of blow-dry bars added to total service growth,” he added.

Bulsara noted that sales of specialty products grew at a robust 9.7%, and styling product sales increased 5.3%. Shampoos and conditioner sales rose in the low single-digits, a result of back-bar use after hair color and keratin/smoothing treatments and salon sales of color protection and new conditioner products. Bulsara said that specialty products and oils (think Moroccan, Argan, Macadamia and Mythic) grew rapidly, due to the popularity of sleek, straight hairstyles.

“Professional hair care products are often more varied, cutting-edge and targeted to a particular hair type or problem or even a single hair style,” noted Elizabeth R. Kenny, managing director, Zotos Professional, Darien, CT. 

“With abundant education for the stylist, professional hair care companies have the ability to communicate in detail how a product is to be used in a way that a single 30-second commercial or print ad can’t do for the mass market brands. The stylists then have the same opportunity to communicate the product’s unique benefit to the client when she is sitting in the chair.”

According to Kenny, the latest trends in professional hair care are anti-aging, damage repair and multi-benefit products.

Joico has added on
to its color collection.
“As the population ages and more is discovered about how to address the physical aging of hair, anti-aging products have been increasingly in demand,” she told Happi. “As we age, the body’s slower production of melanin, lipids and proteins causes hair to lose volume, manageability, color, moisture and shine. Whether it is hair color like Zotos Professional’s AGEbeautiful that is proven to fight all five signs of aging hair or a system for fine and thinning hair like Naturelle’s Nutri-Ox, these products let stylists offer unique salon services to help their mature clients bring youthful volume, bounce and softness back to their hair.”  

Sonya Raubeson, national education manager, Keratin Complex, Boca Raton, FL, agreed that healthy condition is mandatory when it comes to professional hair care demands. She told Happi, “Seemingly unchanged from 2012, 2013 trends focus on healthy, vibrant, lively hair that is very wearable and easy to style.  Professional hair care focuses on nourishing the hair, restoring vibrancy, luster and youthfulness.”

Like beauty trends, such as BB and CC creams which are multi-taskers designed to prime, hydrate, protect and perfect skin, there is a movement in professional hair care to offer similar multi-benefit and multi-tasking products that can create a seamless healthy hair canvas while protecting the hair and leaving a flawless, healthy finish, added Rauberson.

Keratin Complex recently launched Kerabalm 3-in-1 Multi-Benefit Hair Balm, a first of its kind hair balm that delivers “style and staying power” as it strengthens, perfects, and protects all hair types, she said. An exclusive blend of keratin and apple stem cell extract creates a flawless canvas for all day smoothness and shine, according to the company.

“There has been quite a bit of development with anti-aging products. Women today are not just concerned with anti-aging as it relates to their skin; they want a product that also restores youthfulness in their hair,” agreed Peter Coppola, owner of Peter Coppola Keratin Concept, Boca Raton, FL. “Anti-aging hair products are for women of any age: using the right products to combat aging proactively, rather than reactively later in life. Your hair is your most important accessory.”

Coppola’s company recently launched Keratin Concept Legacy Collection. Unlike other in-salon treatments on the market, the Keratin Concept keratin and ceramide formaldehyde-free treatment doesn’t just smooth hair, it safely volumizes and restores a youthful look and texture for at least three months, according to the company.

The first-of-its-kind, in-salon treatment was developed by stylists for stylists with a unique combination of keratin and ceramides, which reverse signs of damage and promote overall hair strength and vitality.

The latest innovation at Kevin Murphy is the
Super Goo solid styler.

Danny Jelaca, owner of the Danny Jelaca Salon in Miami, FL, observed that select ingredients fuel the success of professional hair care products.

“It’s not one ingredient on its own, but that it is an accumulation of effective ingredients working together with proven results,” he explained. “Many hair care product manufacturers take short cuts in their ingredients and production. Too often they use lower cost chemicals and harsh additives to achieve results—often at the expense of the well-being of the consumer.”

His salon works with Leonor Greyl products, fueled by globally sourced botanicals, Jelaca noted.

‘In’ Stylers
What’s hot in hairstyles—and the products used to create and maintain them—is also a key player in the professional hair care segment.

According to Tippi Shorter, Aveda global artistic director, textured hair, “The trend in professional hair care has always been about creating high style that’s easily translated into wearable style and the products, tools and techniques to match. Waves, curls and coils are all the rage in editorial and on runways, and companies are definitely keeping this gorgeous hair shiny healthy and frizz free with the latest trend of curl and frizz smoothing serums and polish.”

Blow Pro You
Only Smoother

Argan oil and keratin work
The hot tools that help create the most glamorous styles can cause irreparable damage to hair, but now hair can take the heat, according to sources at Redken. The professional hair care brand’s latest innovation is a protective and reparative thermal heat styling spray called iron shape 11. The spray joins Redken’s Heat Styling Collection as a medium-hold heat protective spray with better shape memory, better frizz control, and a shinier finish than ever before, contends the company. It also features a new technological innovation, Heatguard Complex, with xylose sugar to prevent heat damage, ceramides to help smooth and strengthen the cuticle, reduce friction and prevent mechanical breakage, and cranberry oil to condition and soften hair.

“We’ll never stop using heating appliances to achieve our favorite styles and now there are even more options thanks to Redken. Their formulas are preventative and also have amazing reparative benefits,” said Rodney Cutler, Redken brand ambassador and owner of Cutler/Redken Salons, New York. “A good heat styling spray is essential to me for creating runway styles, but should also be essential to anyone who uses hot tools on a regular basis. I love the way iron shape 11 doesn’t leave hair tacky or weigh the hair down yet still provides enough hold for a great style all day.”

Redken is also rolling out Diamond Oil, a new hair care collection enriched with camilina, coriander and apricot oils for dazzling locks.

Blow, the New York Blow Dry Bar and fellow pioneers in the hair styling industry, debuted its “you only smoother” advanced smoothing spray this season. According to the company, this all-in-one universal, “self-correcting” spray delivers customized smooth perfection for all hair types, including coarse, unruly and damaged hair without heavy oils or greasy residue. Uniquely formulated with PCS Technology, this spray is said to instantly transform parched, stressed out locks and smooth the cuticle. It also offers 450° of high heat protection. Products are sold online at www.blowpro.com and at Ulta, Macy’s, Nordstrom and other locations.

The CC cream craze has permeated the hair care segment as well. Alterna—now co-owned and fronted by Katie Holmes—rolled out Caviar CC Cream for “Complete Correction,” according to the company. Caviar extract contains amino acids and Omega-3 fatty acids to smooth hair while vitamin C and Seasilk, a blend of marine botanicals, repair damage. The brand also launched a Bamboo Smooth Kendi Dry Oil Micromist for sleek and shiny hair.

While some customers crave straight styles, others choose to embrace curls and other textured looks. Ouidad, known for innovative products targeting all hair types, continues its mission of healthy curls with the launch of the new Wave Create Collection. New products, Sea Spray and Texture Taffy, will turn any hair texture—particularly straight, lifeless hair—into coveted “day at the beach” waves, according to the company.

Formulated with Ouidad’s exclusive wave-making complex of natural seawater and mineral-rich sea salt crystals, new Wave Create Sea Spray creates a tousled texture while plant-derived humectants lock in waves. The ocean-derived seawater contains natural salts that help create a soft wave pattern in the hair. Vitamin-rich seaweed and algae extracts nourish limp, thin hair so strands are super hydrated, never crunchy or stiff.

For even the straightest hair that seems impossible to get waves, the Wave Create Texture Taffy, with its stretchy and fun consistency, is a flexible styling cream unlike anything the hair care market has ever seen, according to the company. Featuring a unique marine complex that is high in vitamins and minerals, Texture Taffy allows for easy molding to the hair and leaves every strand remarkably nourished and soft, without leftover residue. Best for creating summer-inspired waves all year long, Sea Spray and Texture Taffy can be used together or separately, allowing straight hair to be playfully tousled and undeniably sexy, according to the company, which also recently rolled out a cleansing oil.

On the topic of moldable stylers, Kevin Murphy’s latest creation is Super Good, a rubbery gel that gives hair a chunky, separated finish. The no-flake formula contains green tea, bamboo and nettle extracts that allow hair to be molded into distinct looks.

According to Murphy, “Super Goo is an exciting new addition to our current lineup of styling products. The unique texture has a rubber-like finish that works with both slick hair and styles that require strong hold with separation. The final look has a ‘certain bounce’ that sets Super Goo apart from other styling gels.”

Plenty of Growth Potential in Hair Styling
The styling category is certainly growing, according to Sara Jones, senior vice president and general manager, Joico/ISO, Arcadia, CA. “This is great news,” she told Happi, “but most brands have a redundant and over-abundant range of products. We find that salons want simplicity with high performance and their customers (our end-user, the consumer) wants the same thing.”

Joico recently approached the styling category with 21 styling and finishing products, designed to be used alone or together for more versatility, noted Jones. All feature the brand’s patent-pending Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex, so “stylists and consumers are getting the entire Joico line, from shampooing to finishing, promoting the healthiest hair possible,” noted Jones.

Cleanse and Color
Classic shampoo, conditioner and coloring products continue to be in demand—as seen with the variety of rollouts for Summer 2013.

“There seems to be a very strong focus on color care products, such as color-fading preventative formulas, sealants and lock-in treatments, as well as shampoos and conditioners,” said Gerard Caruso, artistic director, Rusk, Stamford, CT.  “This is of special importance to the consumer because it is a way to help them protect their investment from their color services.”

Rusk stylist Danielle Herkloz
creates compelling looks at a
recent hair show.
Rusk is adding two new products to its Deepshine Color Care Line—Invisible Dry Shampoo and the Deepshine Lock-In Treatment. Both are developed with ChromAveil, a patented, UV protection technology that helps preserve chemically colored and natural hair color, as well as a Marine Nutrient Complex.

Featuring a unique blend of potent ingredients, ChromAveil defends hair against the damaging, fading effects of exposure to sunlight, in addition to protecting the integrity of each individual hair fiber. The Marine Nutrient Complex is a combination of marine extracts, proteins and trace minerals that helps restore hair’s natural balance, said the company.

“ChromAveil, which is a patented UV protection technology, has been figuring prominently in hair care formulas. It helps prevent hair coloring from fading due to sun exposure, as well as helps protect the integrity of the hair fibers from sun exposure,” noted Caruso. “I am excited about this technology, especially because Rush will launch a color Lock-in Treatment with ChromAveil technology this month.”

Rusk is the latest
brand to cash in
on the dry
shampoo craze.
The dry shampoo at Rusk features tapioca starch to absorb excess oil and provide a deep clean to leave hair soft as well as hydrofluorocarbon 152A, a propellant that ensures dry application. The lock-in treatment utilizes glycolic acid to help strengthen hair, defend against breakage and improve manageability; vitamin E and pro-vitamin B5; as well as amodimethicone to defend hair against damage from environmental stressors. Joico also recently rolled out a dry shampoo; this formulation features botanicals such as willow and manuka extract, in addition to aluminum starch octenylsuccinate to absorb excess oils from the scalp and hair shaft for a soft feel.

Joico International artistic director Damien Carney is a big fan of the technology.

“This ‘dry cleaner’ for hair is a great way to save time and help hairstyles last longer, especially on long photo and video shoots or fashion shows where you sometimes have to restyle and work hair day after day” he declares. “And that’s just the beginning—I’ve discovered many ways that Instant Refresh can be used in the salon and at home!”

Meanwhile, at fellow salon brand Sally Hershberger, hair strengthening is on the menu with its new Hyper Hydration Super Keratin Shampoo & Conditioner, which is infused with argan oil and keratin. The sulfate free formula is “supercharged” with keratin, argan and amla oil to provide instant smoothing and repair, according to the company.

“Start your style with a shampoo and conditioner that takes your hair’s integrity into serious consideration. Keratin instantly penetrates for smooth, modern and super sexy styles, leaving the hair feeling clean and shiny. Argan oil is the ultimate rehab for stressed out locks,” noted Hershberger.

The new Tamefrizz system at KMS California is based on the concept of “technologynature,” the brand’s hair care’s signature fusion of innovative technologies and natural and naturally inspired ingredients, contends the company. The KMS California exclusive De-Frizz System in combination with pequi acacia, penetrates into the cortex to improve hair’s internal structure while simultaneously smoothing the hair’s surface, said the company.

“I see so many women give up on the style that they want because their frizz stands in the way,” explained KMS California hair care national technical training manager Simon Miller. “The Tamefrizz range is the perfect foundational regimen to give hair the manageability and sleek texture to achieve any style—curly or straight, high-volume or sleek.”

Miller added, “What I love about the collection is that you can tailor it to your hair type: The smoothing lotion is perfect for styling fine to normal hair without weighing it down, and the taming creme is great for getting coarse or unruly hair under control. Everyone can find her individual ‘style equation’ to tame frizz and unlock the styles she desires.”

The system includes a shampoo, conditioner, taming crème, de-frizz oil and a smoothing lotion.

Color also continues to be a concern in professional hair care. For example, GKHair recently rolled out a Silver Shampoo catering to the needs of platinum blonde tresses. GKhair’s new Silver Shampoo is said to brighten and illuminate by being formulated to neutralize red casts, bring out and highlight brilliant blonde hues, gleaming platinum white tones and lustrous silver shades while leaving hair soft and smooth. The product does not contain sulfates, parabens, gluten, phthalates, DEA, tea, petrolatum or paraffin.

Gwyneth Paltrow, a recent cover model for the May 2013 issue of Harper’s Bazaar, has blonde hair worked on by Tracey Cunningham, Redken’s creative consultant for color. 

“Pale multi-dimensional blonde like Gwyneth’s are very hot right now,” said Cunningham. “Gwyneth’s shade of blonde is a look that works all year long.” She suggest taking blonde to the “next level” like Paltrow with Redken’s new Flash Lift maximum power lightening powder to achieve up to eight levels of stunning lift, 20% faster than ever before, for the lightest, coolest blonde results possible.

Diamond Oil is new from Redken for Summer 2013.
Pravana is expanding its ChromaSilk Vivids range with the introduction of Vivids Pastels and Clear, the perfect option for clients who want a fun, but soft, pop of color. The line is comprised of five vibrant, shades including: Pretty in Pink, Luscious Lavender, Blissful Blue, Too Cute Coral and Mystical Mint. In addition to these five new shades, the brand introduces another way to achieve pastel hues with Vivids Clear. When added to any of the 10 classic Vivids shades—Silver, Yellow, Orange, Red, Pink, Magenta, Violet, Green, Blue and Wild Orchid—Vivids Clear softens and lightens the hue for ultimate color customization. Vivids Clear can also be used on its own as a clear glaze for extreme shine, according to the company.

“Clients are seeking soft and ethereal styling and coloring trends, meaning more natural texture in ethnic volume, conditioned waves, loose curl, and more delicate coloring in gentle blonding, subtle tonal variations for brunettes, diffused color, and sublime pastels,” noted Bethany Crellin, vice president-marketing and advertising, Pravana, Woodland Hills, CA. “Moving away from contrived and over-processed texture and highlights, the summer season brings renewal, which translates into fresh and youthful texture and healthy, moisture-rich hair achieved through gentle processes, subtle variations, soft pastels and natural ingredients. “

A Glimpse of the Future
Consumers want results and believe that professional products are more efficient, noted Pierrick Dutton, project leader at Kline & Company’s consumer practice in Prague. He told Happi, “Product positioning is very important. In addition to marketer’s claims on packaging and in marketing and advertising materials, recommendation by a hair stylist plays an important role as well.”

Dutton predicts that a rising trend for 2013 and beyond is the opening up of professional stores to the end-consumer.

“This is a strong trend in several European markets including France and Germany,” he told Happi. “In France, for instance, Bleu Libellule has been the initiator of this trend and the chain has been very dynamic over the past few years. As a result, other stores have followed.”

Coppola of Keratin Concept agreed. He said, “We are going to see a lot of professional products moving into home-use care. Really incredible professional products are starting to become available to the consumer and not just for in-salon use. The professional stylist is able to introduce their clients to these sorts of products behind the chair to help their clients to keep up with their salon-worthy style between appointments. This is what we are working on now—it’s all about empowering the consumer.”

Social media is also important in the progression of professional hair care products. According to Jones of Joico, “Watching salons and independent hairdressers utilizing digital and social media platforms to grow their businesses is exciting to see from a business perspective. With such valuable, easy and affordable methods to expose your services to an ever-growing audience, getting your message out there and promoting yourself has never been easier.”

Jones added that promoting services, retail, specials and community awareness to a targeted audience via websites, bloggers, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, LinkedIn, Yelp and a “ton more” social media sites is the smartest decision a business can make today.

“Our industry is just scratching the surface, though. There are more and more opportunities for salons to grow in this space.”
Ultimately, while anti-aging, damage repair and multi-benefit products will continue to grow, other trends will emerge. Kenny of Zotos told Happi, “The craving for opulence and luxury as the global economy emerges from its recessionary times will be a future trend. Consumers today are not afraid to demonstrate their wealth (or presumed wealth) with bling, dazzle and shine in all aspects of their lives. Little luxuries that can come in the form ofbeauty products will satiate their appetite for luxury.

“The borrowing and sharing of ideas throughout the world as well as the desire to discover unique traditions in far-off cultures will drive new beauty regimens and ingredients in professional hair care. These discoveries allow us to experience new hair benefits and let us feel like we are escaping to exotic, hidden lands.” 

The Buzz on Blow outs
Blow out service is still hot in professional hair care

Here’s a look at the latest news for this styling staple:

• Sine Qua Non Salons in Chicago take the meaning of shine to the next level with the addition of a new signature service: The Gemstone Blowout. Created as a blowout boost to extend the bounce of a style for days after each visit, this service uses a balm containing a rare gemstone blend of pearl, tourmaline, Brazilian green malachite and sapphire powders to loosen hair’s natural curves and smooth even the toughest frizz, contends the company.

More info: www.sinequanonsalons.com

• The celebrity craze in the hair care segment (Katie Holmes and Alterna, Jennifer Anniston and Living Proof) isn’t slowing down anytime soon, as recently seen when one Hollywood stylist teamed up with fitness trainer Tracy Anderson and long-time friend Gwyneth Paltrow to open the David Babaii Blow Dry Bar in Los Angeles.

According to Babaii, “I am so excited and honored to join the team as we all share the same devotion to women’s fitness, health and beauty.”

The David Babaii Blow Dry Bar recently opened inside the Tracy Anderson Brentwood Studio offered exclusively to Tracy Anderson members.  As part of this “holistic alliance” with Anderson and Paltrow at the studio, Babaii will personally train the hairstyling team for the dry bar. Services will include various looks from ideal workout styles, lasting blowouts to red carpet ready looks while providing Tracy Anderson Brentwood Studio Members with “the ultimate styling experience.”

More info: http://tracyandersonmethod.com/

My Amazing Blow Dry Secret
• What’s the secret to a faster blow out? It’s My Amazing Blow Dry Secret’s exclusive coconut oil-based water-wicking system, which powers both the shampoo and conditioner. Scientifically, it’s known as the Virgin Coconut Oil Hydrosol (VCOH) Accelerating Dispersion Matrix. The result is a 50% faster blow out that leaves your hair luxurious, silky, shiny and protected, said the company. The system features a shampoo, conditioner and quick dry shake spray ($25-$26.50).

“Hair trends come and go, but hair that is silky, and full of bounce and incredible shine will never go out of style,” said celebrity and session stylist David Lopez. “My Amazing Blow Dry Secret is my new secret and a vital tool for my editorial and session work. My clients have high demands, and thanks to My Amazing Blow Dry Secret, I’m able to deliver stunning results in about half the time—which is so important when I’m on set or styling VIPs for a special event. I know that every woman will leave my chair with shiny, bouncy, healthy looking hair. Now that the secret’s out, every woman can have those same results every day at home!”

More info: www.myamazingblowdrysecret.com

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