Where the Action Is

By Happi Staff | June 6, 2013

Small percentage, big results.

Small but mighty, active ingredients deliver the big payday consumers have come to expect from their topical skin care products, whether it is fewer lines and wrinkles, a brighter complexion, increased tone, or all of the above.

In fact, without the right blend of potent actives, a formulation is far less likely capture a consumer’s coveted dollars. When in the skin care section at Sephora or shopping the endcap at her local Walgreens, today’s savvy skin care shopper is eyeing labels and ingredient lists for must-have components.

These evermore informed consumers are seeking “vetted and substantiated” actives—think vitamins, collagen and co-enzyme Q10, noted analysts at leading market research group Kline & Company, Parsippany, NJ.

Booster serums from Éminence treat a variety of skin maladies.
According to Kline, the specialty actives market in the US is projected to grow nearly 4% a year from 2010 to 2015. This summer, Kline will release the 2013 edition of its  “Specialty Actives in Personal Care: Multiregional Market Analysis” report, which will have a focus on functionality, with individual chapters dedicated to anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, skin whitening and other key functions fulfilled by actives.

From a functionality perspective, Kline says the largest and the fastest growing group for actives is anti-aging, which includes sub-functionalities such as anti-wrinkle, firming, moisturizing, skin radiance, or age spots. It accounted for 56% of the market in 2010.

In 2013, active ingredients are expected to reach nearly $2.2 billion of the estimated $19.6 billion global cosmetic and toiletry ingredients market, according to data released late last year by BCC Research. The Wellesley, MA-based firm expects active ingredients to rise to $2.7 billion by 2018.

Getting the Job Done
Operating at the frontlines of skin care, dermatologists look to active ingredients to address an assortment of issues.

“Active ingredients are critical as they are the only agents in skin care products that have been tested to show clinical results,” said Dr. Susan Stuart, a board certified La Jolla, CA-based dermatologist.

For Stuart, go-to active ingredients “are those which demonstrate efficacy over time and have been in use for many years. Such ingredients include retinols, vitamin C serum, alpha hydroxy acids, antioxidants, growth factors and peptides.”

There are some newer actives that have caught her attention, too, like CoffeeBerry extract. Derived from the coffee cherry of the Coffea arabica plant when it is still green and “sub-ripe,” it contains an extremely high concentration of polyphenols.  

“So high, in fact, that CoffeeBerry Extract has been found to have the highest antioxidant potential of any ingredient,” Dr. Stuart said, citing data published in Dermatologic Therapy, which was based on CoffeeBerry extract’s Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) score.

“This means CoffeeBerry is a better antioxidant than green tea, white tea, vitamin C, vitamin E, grape seed extract or idebenone,” she said.

Kline’s experts called out hyaluronic acid (HA) as an “asset” within cosmetic formulations.

Tata Harper Skincare, a natural personal care company based in Vermont, claims the HA used in its Hydrating Floral Essence and Repairative Moisturizer is unique because it has a low molecular weight. According to Harper, the key ingredient, HyActive, has the ability to penetrate the skin and work side by side with the skin’s natural HA. It encourages the natural HAS2 (hyaluronan synthase-2) to flourish and protects it against the enzymes (matrix matelloproteinase) that would normally slow down or destroy HA.

A Wave of Actives
Marketers are listening to consumer requests for SKUs that deliver on their claims and are incorporating innovative active ingredients into their beauty products.

SeaCreation from Babor.

Babor is taking a unique approach with its actives with the new SeaCreation collection. According to the company, in order to protect the oceans, Babor now has the active ingredients optimized in a scientifically monitored seawater environment, in line with the latest advances in beauty technology. SeaCreation’s hero ingredient is Sea-telligent Complex, which contains extracts of two micro-organisms obtained from the deep sea—Glycocéane GP3 and thermophiles—as well as an exclusive extract of green caviar algae. Together, they offer an all-round anti-aging effect, optimizing skin functions, providing effective protection against pre-mature aging and helping to reduce existing fine lines and wrinkles, said the company. Products vary from eye cream to a serum.

“Active ingredients are the only benefits in skin care,” claims Fabienne Lindholm, Babor’s executive director of education, West Palm Beach, FL. “They are capable of acting by causing change and or communicating action or motion in the skin. They are the essence of what the product does; for example, moisturizing, anti-aging and stimulation.”

To give skin a kick, Éminence Organic Skin Care, Vancouver, BC, is branching out with its new Vitaskin Booster Serums, out in June. According to the company, the serums are formulated with potent blends of the most active ingredients that allow users to customize and intensify the benefits of his or her current skin care. Éminence has responded to this need and created four targeted Booster Serums for home use that are designed to tackle popular concerns: Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster Serum for hyperpigmentation, Calm Skin Arnica Booster Serum for redness, Clear Skin Willow Bark Booster Serum for acne and Firm Skin Acai Booster Serum for aging.

According to company founder and president Boldijarre Koronczay, “by including key active ingredients in skin care products you can target specific skin conditions and that means improving results.”

Dual Advantage
Cream debuts in

Koronczay says Éminence has found some “incredible plant-derived actives that have shown amazing results” for the treatment of rosacea, hyperpigmentation, acne and the signs of aging.

“We’ve included concentrated amounts of these actives in our new booster-serums alongside skin nourishing ingredients that have supportive benefits. With a well-rounded yet targeted formula you can see some incredible results,” he said.

Also aiming to target a variety of skin woes with one SKU is a new launch from Vitaphenol. Its new Anti-Aging Toner is fueled by 10% glycolic acid, grapefruit (citrus grandis) extract, comfrey extract, CoQ10 and the Vitaphenol Complex (mangosteen, pomegranate, green tea and white tea). The complex is a potent blend of medically compounded superantioxidants that restore the skin’s structure and protect against future damage.

“Skin care actives…are commonly included in skin care formulas to address anti-aging needs,” said Tricia Buenvenida, vice president/brand director, SciDerma Medical, LLC, Doylestown, PA, parent company of Vitaphenol. For example, Buenvenida cited antioxidants topically applied to the skin that have proven to be effective in helping to prevent free radical damage caused by sunlight (UVA/UVB rays) and air pollution from cigarette smoke and car exhaust—two of most common sources of free radicals that promote oxidation of skin.
“In short, topical antioxidants work by reducing free radical damage and are effective because they are actually able to neutralize free radicals before they can damage cells. Topical antioxidants address the free radicals before damage occurs,” she concluded.
UV protection is also a common mission in the actives category to fight such damage, as seen with SkinCeuticals’ latest development, Sport UV Defense SPF 50. This marathon-runner-tested sport sunscreen provides broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and is formulated for extreme conditions and active use. This new sport SPF is fortified with Artemia salina, said to increases skin’s resistance to UV and heat stress and protects collagen from UV damage, according to the company.

Aiming to perfect problematic skin, GloTherapeutics will launch its Dual Advantage Cream in August. Designed to control breakouts while fading the residual discoloration associated with them, multifunctional active ingredients also provide relief from flushed, chronically red skin to reveal a clear, fresher complexion, claimed the company. Actives of 10% azelaic acid target hyperpigmentation, suppress the growth of follicle bacteria and reduce inflammation while ingredients including niacinamide and Arlatone Dioic DCA improve the skin’s texture and barrier function to increase its radiance and natural glow.

Actives Battle Acne
While anti-aging and UV protection are key targets for active technologies, acne is another major area in which potent actives have a proven track record.

Aveeno Men’s Skin Care products.

In the mass market, Johnson & Johnson is keeping up with consumer demand with new acne rollouts from Neutrogena. The Neutrogena Natural Acne collection harnesses the power of naturally-derived 1% salicylic acid in wintergreen to offer a natural alternative to traditional acne remedies, claimed the company. The wintergreen is processed in a unique way, resulting in USP grade salicylic acid that meets the OTC monograph for acne treatment.

Also new at J&J is the Aveeno Active Naturals Men’s Face Wash, Shave Gel and After Shave Lotion. The brand’s classic natural active, colloidal oatmeal, fuels the formulations.

Another mass brand, Oxy, has been tackling acne with its recently reformulated product arsenal that relies several OTC monograph-compliant actives including benzoyl peroxide.

According to Meryl Reis, vice president of R&D, each product in the Oxy line is formulated with an effective active “delivered appropriately” for that product’s use, while providing a positive consumer experience. 

“The actives function to treat and prevent acne and each work a little differently. Consumers can experiment with different actives at different concentrations to find what works best for their skin,” she said, noting that the brand recommends consumers try a combination of its products to help prevent acne breakouts. (You can read more about the Oxy relaunch by logging onto “Oxy Ups The Ante” on happi.com)

The Big Picture
In the end, while actives are critical, chemists recognize that the entire formulation must be firing on all cylinders to ensure the product delivers results in a way that’s safe and aesthetically pleasing.

“The goal of the formulation is to deliver the clinically proven actives in a safe and effective system that is consumer preferred,” said Reis. “The actives are critical, and equally critical is the rest of the formulation, since product differences have a big impact on the ability of the active to be effective.”

Looking for a new active for your personal care product? A list of them starts on p. 86.

Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition, Oct. 29 & 30, 2013
• Want the latest word on active skin care ingredients from industry experts like Howard Murad; Ronnie Weinkauf, Neostrata; Curt Cole, J&J; Jim Leyden, University of Pennsylvania; Laurence Dryer, Obagi; and Jennifer Thomas of the US FDA? Be sure to register for Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition, Oct. 29 & 30, 2013.

In addition to expert presentations, the event will include a one-day tabletop exhibition on Oct. 29 featuring products and services from the leading suppliers to the anti-aging category.

Questions? Contact Tom Branna, VP/editorial director, 201-880-2223.

To register: http://conference.happi.com

One-Minute Facelift?
• The 60 Second Facelift—with a price tag of $1,999.99—was developed by a world-renown MD with more than 25 years dedicated to the field of non-surgical facelifts. (When contacted by Happi at press time, the doc wished to remain anonymous). After applying 60 Second Facelift, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines disappear and skin looks and feels softer, smoother, younger and tighter claims the company. The results will typically last six to eight hours, varying between skin types.

Ingredients include water, sodium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, palmitoyl hexapeptide-19, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit water, butylene glycol, sea salt, ethylhexylglycerin and phenoxyethanol.

Here's a list of active ingredients that have been introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months.

Active Organics, Inc.
Lewisville, TX
Tel: 972-221-7500
Email: info@activeorganics.com
Website: www.activeorganics.com

ActiGuard S Natural
Performance Ingredient
INCI: Sorghum bicolor bran extract, gly-cerin and water
Applications: Ideal for sensitive, inflamed and overly reactive skin conditions
Use Levels: 3-10% in daily use products.
Comments: ActiGuard S Natural Performance Ingredient is the first in Active Organics newest line of botanical actives, designed around extracts of the ancient grain sorghum. Just as the sorghum bran helps protect the grain from pests, sunlight, disease, water loss and damage, the bran can help protect the skin.

AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, Personal Care Applications
Bridgewater NJ
Tel: 888-331-6212
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Hydrovance Moisturizing Agent
INCI: Hydroxyethyl urea
Applications: Bath and shower products; conditioner, ethnic hair, hair spray, shampoo, skin cream and lotion; styling products; sun protection
Use Levels: 1-10%
Comments: Hydrovance moisturizing agent offers non-tacky, non-greasy aesthetics in skin care products. This moisturizing agent provides cost effective performance and allows for the reduction of glycerin, silicones and aesthetic enhancing agents in formulations. Hydrovance moisturizing agent is especially useful as a moisturizing agent for use in skin care products.
Structure PQ-37M Rheology Modifier
INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) mineral oil (and) trideceth-6
Applications: Antiperspirants/deodorants; conditioner; ethnic hair; hair gel; moisturizer; mousse; skin cream and lotion; skin gel; styling product; sun protection; treatment; wipe
Use Levels: 1-10%
Comments: Structure PQ-37M rheology modifier is a cationic acrylic copolymer dispersed in cosmetic grade white mineral oil. It is a multifunctional rheology modifier that provides thickening, conditioning, suspending and emulsion stabilization for a wide range of personal care applications.
Structure PQ-37P Rheology Modifier
INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) trideceth-6
Applications: Antiperspirants/deodorants; conditioner; ethnic hair; hair gel; moisturizer; mousse; skin cream & lotion; skin gel; styling product; sun protection; treatment; wipe
Use Levels: 1-10%
Comments: Structure PQ-37P rheology modifier is a cationic acrylic copolymer dispersed in cosmetic grade white mineral oil. It is a multifunctional rheology modifier that provides thickening, conditioning, suspending and emulsion stabilization for a wide range of personal care applications.

Florham Park, NJ
Tel:  973-245-5504
Email: kristen.presti@basf.com
Website: www.beauty-creations.basf.com/
INCI: Water (and) algae extract (and) hexylene glycol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) xanthan gum
Applications: Eye contour care claiming eye contour luminizing, BB eye cream, dark circles correction, CC eye creams
Use Levels: 2%
Comments: A seaweed extract designed to combat the formation of wrinkles and “dark circles” around the eyes for a fully refreshed and enlightened eye contour.
Ultra Filling Spheres
INCI: Ethylhexyl palmitate (and) trihydroxystearin (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) Amorphophallus Konjac root powder
Applications: Wrinkle correction formulations (face, eyes, lips and neck), anti-aging and replumping lipsticks.
Use Levels: 0.5-3%
Comments: A new and improved version of Filling Spheres, Beauty Creations’ breakthrough concept in wrinkle filling, which has been specially designed to instantly fill in wrinkles and fine lines in a more efficient manner thanks to their far greater capacity to absorb water and swell in comparison with the previous Filling Spheres versions.
INCI: Glyceryl laurate (and) Moringa oleifera seed extract
Applications: Deodorant, foot care, intimate hygiene, body care
Use Levels: 0.4%
Comments: A natural efficient antiodor active for the deodorant market. It is a synergistic blend of Moringa polypeptide extract and plant-based glyceryl laurate, which acts at two essential levels to help dramatically reduce bodily odors.

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH

Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0
Email: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
Belides ORG
INCI: Bellis perennis (daisy) flower extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: Belides ORG can be used in emulsified and gel type formulations.
Comments: Belides ORG is derived from organic daisy flowers (Bellis perennis) and is recommended for use in skin-lightening cosmetics and in cases of pigmentation disorders, hyperpigmentation or age spots. Belides ORG is certified by EcoCert Greenlife according to the Ecocert Standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics.

Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: Marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.croda.com/na/pc
DuraQuench IQ-SA
INCI: Cetyl alcohol (and) isostearyl isostearate (and) potassium cetyl phosphate (and) cetyl stearate (and) stearic acid
Use levels: 2.5-5%
Applications: Baby care, creams, lotions, eye care, feet, nails and hand care, after sun, male grooming
Comments: An innovative, globally-approved approach to effective moisturization, DuraQuench IQ SA offers a dual mechanism to optimize skin moisturization by forming an intelligent structural layer on the surface of the skin, while regulating water loss from within by reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier.  US Patent Pending.
Solaveil ST-100
INCI: C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) titanium dioxide (and) polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (and) silica (and) stearic acid (and) aminopropyl triethoxysilane
Use levels: 2-30%
Applications: Sun protection products
Comments: Discover a sensational skin feel with Solaveil ST-100. Combining optimum UV performance with enhanced aesthetics this uniquely coated titanium dioxide dispersion enables you to formulate light and luxurious UV protection products.  US Patents 7,220,305 and 7,503,970.

Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: 201-791-6700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Granactive Retinoid
INCI: Dimethyl isosorbide (and) hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics, anti-acne products
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: A concentrated and easily formulated anhydrous matrix containing 10% of the pinacolyl ester of all-trans retinoic acid in a premium delivery solvent, Granactive Retinoid is one of the most bio-available, non-prescription forms of Vitamin-A sold in cosmetics. Intended for use in anti-aging and anti-acne beauty treatments, it provides low irritating, effective active delivery in daily maintenance applications. In addition, it decreases the effects of UV induced skin damage and helps clear acne related symptoms.

Jeen International Corporation
(exclusive distributor for Botanicals Plus active ingredients)

Fairfield, NJ USA
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Botanagen C (Botanicals Plus)
INCI: Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate  
Use Levels: 0.5-2.0%
Applications: Skin care, hair care, sunscreens, color cosmetics and general skin care formulation
Comments: Novel active ingredient designed to increase the stability of ascorbic acid, Botanagen C is uniquely delivered to the skin producing depigmentation and cell proliferation benefits. The result is a more stable, effective and safer skin-lightening agent when compared with other ascorbic acid derivatives. In-vivo study information is available to support the various product attributes, particularly the improved stability profile versus other ascorbic acid derivatives and L-ascorbic acid.
BP Adenosine Complex
 (Botanicals Plus)
INCI: Adenosine, cyclodextrin
Use Levels: 0.1-2.0%
Applications: Creams, lotions, wide range of cosmetic and general skin care formulations
Comments: Unique stabilized product complexes the adenosine to ensure active ingredient availability when formulated into skin care products. The stabilized adenosine delivers a range of attributes such as anti-wrinkle activity and collagen synthesis particularly in eye area lotions, nighttime serums and various moisturizing preparations.
BP Glucan MC (Botanicals Plus)
INCI: Beta glucan
Use Levels: 0.1-0.5%
Applications:  Creams, lotions, wide range of cosmetic and general skin care formulations
Comments: Highly purified and extracted from a unique fungal strain, BP Glucan MC provides a variety of skin care product attributes via cell proliferation including anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle and accelerated sunburn recovery. Additionally, the product provides significant skin lightening effects as well as overall moisturizing benefits. In-vivo study information is available to support the various product attributes.

Kewpie Corporation
Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81-3-3486-3338
Email: kewpiefc@kewpie.co.jp
Website: www.kewpie.co.jp/english/fc
INCI: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Use Levels: 0.01-1.0%
Applications: Skin, hair
Comments: Molecular weight less than 10,000 Da. Innovative penetration type. Patented.
INCI: Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate
Use Levels: 0.005-1.0%
Applications: Skin, hair
Comments: Chemically modified (made partially cationized). Innovative adhesion type (not easily washing off). Patent pending.
INCI: C12-13 Alkyl glyceryl hydrolyzed hyaluronate
Use Levels: 0.05-1.0%
Applications: Skin (specially for dry-rough skin)
Comments: Chemically modified (made partially hydrophobic). Innovative barrier-function-recovery type. Patent pending.

Lipotec LLC
Jersey City, NJ
Tel: 201-633-4662
Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
INCI (proposed): Butylene glycol, water (aqua), acetyl hexapeptide-50
Applications: Protection/prevention, DNA care, sun care, anti-aging.
Use Level: 2%
Comments: Hexapeptide that mimics the activity of FOXO3a, a protein member of the Forhkead box transcription factors that is involved in cell repair, renewal and longevity of the cells. Juvefoxo protects DNA from damage, stimulates its natural repair pathways and reverts senescence.
INCI: Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract
Use Levels: 2%
Applications: Anti-wrinkles, anti-aging
Comments: Anti-wrinkle biotechnological active ingredient of marine origin with proven efficacy in reducing lipstick lines in only one week. Seacode enhances the synthesis of essential dermal proteins, such as collagen I, contributing to the amelioration of the structural properties of the skin while combating visible aging signs.
INCI: (proposed): Water (aqua), acetyl tetrapeptide-2, caprylyl glycol
Use Levels: 2%
Comments: Tetrapeptide that improves firmness and structural cohesion of the skin through enhancing the levels of FBLN5 and LOX-1, which are fundamental proteins to the assembly of functional elastin. It also stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin as well as other elements involved in cellular adhesion to ECM.

Lonza Personal Care
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonza.com
ProSynergen DF
INCI: Lactobacillus/ulkenia amoeboidea ferment extract filtrate
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-aging skin care, barrier function treatments, treatment makeup.
Comments: Strengthening barrier function is the primary means to improve compromised skin. Barrier protection restores skin hydration and overall health, reducing the appearance of signs of premature aging. ProSynergen DF helps improve the overall well being of compromised skin, so skin looks younger and healthier.

Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
PhytoCellTec Symphytum
INCI: Symphytum officinale root cell extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) sodium benzoate (and) aqua/water
Applications: Rejuvenating formulas, age-defense products for both face and body, skin care products to vitalize the most valuable skin cells—the stem cells
Use Levels: 0.4-1%
Comments: PhytoCellTec Symphytum boosts the regenerative power of epidermal stem cells and their ability to build new tissue. It has been proven to build a denser epidermis (+ 88%) that resulted in a vital skin with an improved barrier function.

RITA Corporation   
Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: 815-337-2500
Email: info@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com
Ritathix DOE
INCI: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and methyl gluceth-10
Applications: Surfactant systems, facial washes, cleansers
Use Levels: 0.5-3.0%
Comments: A liquid based surfactant thickener that has the ability to thicken in very precise increments. A cold process ingredient that can be added during any phase of the manufacturing process and can be used to fine tune batch viscosity. Can be used in clear surfactant systems and does not need to be neutralized.

Sabinsa Corporation
East Windsor, NJ
Tel: 732-777-1111
Email: Kavita@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsa.com
Moringa Leaf Extract (Moringin)
INCI: Moringa oleifera leaf extract
Applications: Antioxidant, wound healing
Use Levels: 0.5-2%

Brive Cedex, France
Tel: +33 (0) 555 84 58 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
Glyco-Repair Bio
INCI: Water and hydrolyzed Ceratonia siliqua seed extract
Applications: Moisturizing
Use Levels: 1-3%
Comments: Rich in oligogalactomannans of organically farmed Ceratonia siliqua seeds, Glyco-Repair Bio stimulates the synthesis of growth factors such as activin A on keratinocytes and increases the synthesis of α-SMA on fibroblasts. Thereby, Glyco-Repair Bio ensures the crucial function of helping the skin repair and of limiting the transepidermal water loss, thus favoring the recovery. Glyco-Repair Bio is recommended for all repairing skin care.
Ridulisse C Bio
INCI: Hydrolyzed lupine protein
Applications: Moisturizing
Use Levels: 1-3%
Comments: Purified from organically grown soya, Ridulisse C Bio limits the matrix alteration by boosting the synthesis of one of the main dermis molecules: the collagen I. This active ingredient thus redensifies and restructures the fibrillar network. With an anti-wrinkle proven efficacy, Ridulisse C Bio can be incorporated into all anti-aging skin care treatments.

Tempo Canada
Oakville, ON
Tel: 905-339-3309
Email: cs@tempo.ca
Website: tempo.ca
Liposhield HEV Melanin
INCI: Melanin
Applications: Daily wear moisturizing creams and lotions, anti-aging treatment products, sunscreen products, foundation makeups, hand creams
Use Levels: 0.2-1.0%
Comments: Shields the skin from high-energy blue/violet visible light (HEV) that may induce premature aging according to recent scientific studies. In contrast, red visible light is deemed to have beneficial effects, Liposhield HEV Melanin is tailored to allow red light to be transmitted to the skin.
INCI: Pisum sativum (pea) sprout extract (and) phenoxyethanol (and) sodium benzoate (and) aqua/water
Applications: Anti-hair loss, hair-regrowth formulations, anti-aging hair care products, tonics, serums, conditioners, masks and shampoos
Use Levels: 2-4%
Comments: Based on sprouts of organic pea, AnaGain reduces hair loss by inducing dermal papilla cells to reactivate hair growth. Growth is initiated by controlling the switch from degeneration (telogen) to growth (anagen) phase. Maintains hair’s original density and thickness.
PhytoCellTec Symphytum
INCI: Symphytum officinale root cell extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) sodium benzoate (and) aqua/water
Applications: Rejuvenating formulas, age-defense products for both face and body, skin care products to vitalize the most valuable skin cells—the stem cells
Use Levels: 0.4-1%
Comments: A powder based plant stem cell extract of comfrey (symphytum) roots, shown to clearly restore the regenerative capacity of epidermal stem cells cultivated in an aging environment. Boosts and improves the skin renewal from the deepest layers of the epidermis and prevents age-related thinning, while ensuring skin remains smooth.

Wacker Chemical Corporation
Adrian, MI
Tel: 888-922-5374
Email: info.usa@wacker.com
Website: www.wacker.com/personal-care
Belsil Reg 1100
INCI: Dimethicone (and) vinyldimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate dimethicone crosspolymer
Applications: skin care, sun care, BB and CC creams, shaving/depilatories and deodorants
Use Levels: 5-50%
Comments: This new resin elastomer gel has been optimized to impart a unique texture that leaves skin feeling extraordinarily soft and silky.  A multi-functional additive offering shear-thinning rheology for ease of application/ distribution of the end product, and film-forming and adhesion properties to impart water and transfer-resistant benefits for long-wear.  
Belsil OW 1500
INCI: PEG/PPG-20/20 copolymer (and) PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone
Applications: Skin care, sun care, bath & shower (e.g., creams, lotions, serums, gels)
Use Levels: 0.5-5%
Comments: Belsil OW 1500 is a polyether-functional silicone that offers multiple benefits.  In creams and lotions it acts as co-emulsifier providing oil-in-water emulsification, improving skin feel and product stability. In shower gels, it helps to stabilize foam and provides mild conditioning to skin.  
Belsil GB 1020
INCI:     Dimethicone (and) dimethiconol
Applications: Skin care and sun care (e.g., face and body care creams & lotions, after-shave lotions, sunscreen products).
Use Levels: 0.5-10%
Comments: It is a blend of low viscosity dimethicones and a high-molecular dimethiconol.
    It provides the multiple benefits of excellent sensory qualities (lubricious, soft, smooth skin feel), excellent spreading properties, longer play time, and imparts a water-resistant but breathable non-occlusive protection barrier that provides good substantivity and fixation of active ingredients.

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    Industry expert Nadim Shaath takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the history and the future of essential oils.

  • Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

    Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

    March 1, 2017
    In-Cosmetics Global 2017 will take place in London, April 4-6, 2017

  • Trade Association Directory 2017

    February 2, 2017
    Contact details of trade associations that serve various segments of our industry and are mentioned frequently in Happi.

  • What the Halal  Is Going On?

    What the Halal Is Going On?

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||February 2, 2017
    Demand for these beauty products is surging thanks to a fastgrowing Muslim population.

  • Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Guadalupe Pellon and Annette Mehling , BASF||February 2, 2017
    BASF researchers detail the attributes of the company’s highly effective hair care system focusing on scalp sensitivity.

  • What’s in Style?

    What’s in Style?

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    The latest sprays, gels, mousses, serums and creams for hair are filled with luxury components and meet a variety of needs

  • Defining Clean Skin

    Defining Clean Skin

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||February 1, 2017
    A look at the issues, research and history surrounding this controversial topic.

  • Linked In

    Linked In

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    Through virtual reality, apps and connected devices, beauty and personal care brands can strengthen their customer relations

  • Hitting the Right Notes

    Hitting the Right Notes

    January 6, 2017
    Agilex Fragrances is the leader in the middle market fragrance category.

  • The Smell of Clean in 2017

    The Smell of Clean in 2017

    January 6, 2017
    Changing consumer lifestyles and demographics are impacting the scents found in the household cleaning category.

  • On the Edge

    On the Edge

    January 6, 2017
    Expanding beauty brands to watch in 2017

  • A New Contender?

    A New Contender?

    January 6, 2017
    Detergent sales are up, innovation continues and Henkel is determined to make it a dogfight in the segment.

  • Engagement 2016

    Engagement 2016

    January 6, 2017
    CSPA convenes in Fort Lauderdale for annual meeting.

  • Slow & Steady

    Slow & Steady

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    In a tumultuous environment, steady gains posted in the industrial and institutional cleaning sector are welcomed.

  • The World Comes to Orlando

    The World Comes to Orlando

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    More than 1,600 chemists traveled to Florida for the IFSCC Congress

  • The Plex Phenomenon

    The Plex Phenomenon

    Denise Costrini, Croda North America||December 1, 2016
    Croda details the hair-protecting qualities of bond multipliers and the company’s new bond-building formulation system.

  • New Hair Care Ingredients

    December 1, 2016
    Check out the latest releases from suppliers.

  • Hair & Now

    Hair & Now

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor ||December 1, 2016
    The shampoo and conditioner category is expanding with modern takes on these classic formulations.

  • Perform or Perish

    Perform or Perish

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 1, 2016
    Success in today’s skin care sector begins with active ingredients, formulated in products that address modern-day issues.