Chemsil Silicones, Chatsworth, CA, promoted its Cosmetic Fluid EU (INCI: Cyclohexasiloxane (and) dimethiconol). It is a clear, insoluble liquid that provides luster, protection and manageability to the hair without being heavy or oily. It is said to be an excellent skin emollient and moisture barrier when used in emulsions and sunscreens. A companion product also using cyclohexasilone is Gelaid Silk (INCI: Cyclohexasiloxane (and) vinyl dimethicone/methicone silse-squioxane crosspolymer (and) acrylamide/sodium acrylodimethyl taurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 80 (and) PEG-10 dimethicone). This mixture, which can be processed cold, produces a protective skin barrier to ensure hydration and leave a soft, silky feeling to skin.
A condensed formula using this product is as follows:
|C12-15 alkyl benzoate||2.50|
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) titanium dioxide (and) polyglyceryl-3 polydimthylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (and) aluminum hydroxide
(and) stearic acid
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients in batch tank for 30 minutes at high speed. Mix phase B in separate container until uniform. Add B slowly to A and mix at high speed for another 30 minutes. The viscosity is 30,800cps and the pH is 6.4
Ice Cold Emulsions
Jeen International, Fairfield, NJ, promoted its Jeesperse ICE-T line of products. “ICE-T” stands for Instant Cold Emulsion Technology. When room temperature water is added to these powders, they rapidly form stable emulsions; thus eliminating the need for traditional emulsifiers and enables formulators to add waxes into the system without heating, according to Jeen.
There are seven different versions of ICE-T, all contain a mixture of emulsifiers. For example, ICE-T LB-T consists of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, stearic acid, glycol stearate and sodium acrylate/sodiumacryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer. Another material, ICE-T LB-CARB1, contains the same ingredients listed above, except the copolymer is replaced by carbomer. One other example is ICE-T BW-G. This mixture has cocamide MEA, hydroxylpropyl guar gum, glycol distearate and PEG-150 distearate. Since the products don’t require heat, formulators can save time and reduce their carbon footprints.
Jeen offers some advice regarding the use of ICE-T products:
- Use 50% or less of the required batch water in the main tank. This will increase the frequency of ICE-T particle collisions. These collisions grind the wax particles, which, in turn, release the polymer to the water to develop viscosity.
- Add the oil phase when the ICE-T starts to increase in viscosity.
- Mix until uniform and add the remaining water to the batch. If a recirculating pump or homogenizer is available, use them to finish the product.
Also, Solvay featured its Jaguar LS technology (INCI: Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride). This white powder, with a use level of 0.1-0.5%, provides the following benefits when added to hair care formulas:
- Imparts conditioning with less irritation in low surfactant systems;
- Improves detangling and combing;
- Furnishes smooth wet feel during and after shampooing;
- Controls fly-aways and maintains hair volume;
- Does not build-up on hair, including dyed, bleached or damaged hair.
- Its low usage level decreases formula costs and reduces formula incompatibilities.
Harvey M. Fishman
Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.