Gleams & Notions

Clariant and Innovacos Offer Novel Materials

By Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant | September 27, 2013

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of products are promoted at Society of Cosmetic Chemist Suppliers’ Days throughout the country. Here’s a look at two that were on display at the New York Chapter’s event, which was held earlier this year in New Jersey.

Clariant’s polyacrylate crosspolymer-11, Aristoflex Velvet, is recommended for skin care products for several reasons. It adds a soft, smooth feel to the skin, but does not break immediately when applied. It melts gradually. It is stable from pH 3-8 and is compatible with a wide range of preservatives and organic solvents that allows it to be used in tonics, hand sanitizers and nail polish removers to leave a soft, non-drying skin feel. It has suspending properties and can be used to stabilize beads, exfoliating scrubs, microcapsules, pearls and shimmering particles. It is pre-neutralized, ready to use and can be dispersed in either the water or the oil phase.

The formula below illustrates its use.

Emulsifier-Free Cream Gel
Ingredients: %Wt.
Phase A  
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.0
Isopropyl palmitate 3.6
Glycine soja 1.0
Phase B  
Water qs to 100
Glycerin 4.0
Phase C  
Aristoflex Velvet 1.5
Phase D  
Phenoxyethanol (and) piroctone 
  olamine (and) benzoic acid
Phase E  
Sodium hydroxide (20%) qs

Procedure: Mix A and C. Add B to AC and stir until batch is homogenous. Add D and continue stirring. Adjust pH with E to 5.5-6.0. This is a white cream gel with a viscosity of 17,360cps.

Here’s another example:

Face Serum
Ingredients: %Wt.
Phase A  
Aqua, aloe barbadensis leaf juice  1.0
Aqua, Hamamelis Virg. (witch hazel) extract 1.5
Glycerin 5.0
Water qs to 100
Allantoin 0.2
D-panthenol 0.5
Phase B  
Chitin, beta-glucan 0.5
Phase C  
Aristoflex Velvet 0.5
Phase D  
Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben
  (and) ethylparaben  (and)
  propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben
Phase E  
Citric acid, 10% q.s.

Procedure: Mix A, then add B and homogenize. Add C and stir at 600rpm until all lumps are dissolved. Add D with stirring, and adjust pH with E to 5.5-6.0. This is a pale yellow gel with a viscosity of 12,040cps.

Innovacos Corp., Mt. Arlington, NJ, promoted a moreexotic product named Activoil Spotless. Its proposed INCI name is Ribes nigrum (black currant) seed oil, octyldodecanol, octyldodecl oleate, ocytldodecyl stearoyl stearate, alcohol, Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, Solidago virgaurea (goldenrod) extract.

The Paeonia suffruticosa is the peony flower that acts as an anti-inflammatory, inhibits lipid peroxidation and also inhibits melanagenesis (as does the blackcurrant seed oil). The purpose of Activoil Spotless is to inhibit age spots, which can be present on the face, neck and upper chest. The number and color intensity increases with age and the presence of the spots is related to UV exposure, not to aging. The possible causes are hyperpigmentation due to melanin accumulation and the molecular pathways involved are an increase in melanocytes and melanin synthesis, impaired melanin degradation, and an accumulation of lipofuscin “age-pigment.”

The firm’s tests showed that Activoil reduced the age spot melanin intensity for more than 86% of the subjects and provided a significant increase in skin lightness (luminescence) for more than 93% of the subjects. It is also recommended for preventing UV-induced skin erythema. It is oil-soluble and can be used at 1-2%.

Harvey M. Fishman

Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.
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