Imogen Matthews, Consultant04.01.22
European consumers care deeply about their skin. That truth makes the facial skincare market one of the most important categories within the total European beauty market.
The global pandemic helped boost the fortunes of European skincare brands, reflecting consumers’ desire to stay healthy and look after themselves. The pandemic also gave rise to two important trends: skincare products that promote healthy skin and the growth of products designed to work on the skin microbiome.
Those trends helped European facial skincare sales grow a healthy 8% in 2021 to reach $21.4 billion, according to GlobalData. The market research company anticipates a 4% gain to $22.2 billion in 2022. The top five European markets for facial skincare are Germany ($4.1 billion), France ($3.6 billion), UK ($3.2 billion), Italy ($1.9 billion) and Russia ($1.4 billion). GlobalData predicts sales in these markets will grow anywhere from 2% to 5% in 2022.
How Dry I Am
Hydration is at the top of the list of claims cited by European consumers in GlobalData’s Q3 2021 Consumer Survey Results—Europe.
“The claim ‘hydrating’ signals that dryness is likely a prominent concern,” comments Elise Robson, associate analyst, GlobalData. “Seventy-four percent of European consumers found this claim to be ‘very/somewhat’ appealing.”
This flies in the face of brands promoting a multiple product regime of products, some with strong actives, as they may cause skin problems resulting from overuse and too frequent exfoliation.
Countering the trend for strong actives is Byoma, a new UK brand. Byoma debuted during the initial covid-19 lockdown when “people were playing chemist in their bathrooms and experimenting with super-strength actives with less than desirable results,” according to Byoma Founder Marc Elrick on the company website.
Healthy Skin Trends
Protecting the skin barrier is a priority in promoting healthy skin. There have been several European launches that specifically target the microbiome. Made in Wales, Oskia Rest Day Barrier Repair Balm, contains colloidal oats, lupin seed, amino acids, probiotics, ceramides and bio-mimetic actives. A matte multi-purpose balm for dry, damaged or stressed skin, it is designed to protect and support the skin’s vital barrier function.
Like Byoma, U Beauty The Barrier Bioactive Treatment aims to streamline and shrink complicated regimens. The intensive overnight repairing mask contains vitamin B6, AHAs, salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, shea butter and purified oat extract to restore dull, dry and weathered complexions to a supple and radiant state.
Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream—aka The Bandage Balm for rapid skin barrier repair—is another overnight leave-on treatment. It is recommended for use before and after non-invasive procedures such as laser treatments, chemical peels and micro-needling.
Key ingredients are adaptogen 2%, oat protein, panthenol, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, ceramide and niacinamide to help soothe and repair compromised and post-procedure skin.
“Consumers are becoming more aware and knowledgeable about the importance of skin health, aided by the rise of digital lifestyles particularly since the start of the covid-19 pandemic,” maintains Robson.
“Over the past two years, many beauty and skin care experts took to digital platforms to share their knowledge and recommendations with consumers.”
YouTube, TikTok and Instagram have been particularly important to the growth of issues surrounding skin health, with experts using these platforms to launch in-depth tutorials to millions of consumers.
Targeting the Microbiome
The success of Gallinée, the French skin care range, sparked consumer interest in the microbiome.
More shoppers understand the importance of the skin microbiome. As a result, more mainstream beauty companies are launching skin care formulas that incorporate prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic ingredients.
“With an abundance of external factors like blue light, pollution, UV rays and masks affecting our skin, many consumers now actively search for products that will help maintain the health of their skin microbiome,” explained Robson, who highlighted two new European launches from the GlobalData database. Aurelia London Revitalize & Glow Serum has a super lightweight formulation containing probiotics to help calm the natural immune triggers in the skin that may be irritated by pollution and stress to promote healthy radiant skin.
Atelier Rebul Pre + Postbiotic Hyaluronic Serum (Turkey) is formulated with pre+probiotics, shea butter, avocado oil and vitamin E to help balance “good bacteria” in skin.
Fermented Ingredients
GlobalData reports an increase in European launches containing fermented ingredients. These new products debut, despite fermentation being an unfamiliar concept for many consumers.
Brands such as Drunk Elephant use fermented extracts to help support the health of micro-organisms within the skin microbiome.
For example, Florena, the brand owned by Beiersdorf, has a range of fermented skin care products, including hydrating and anti-aging face masks and creams, brightening masks, illuminating and regenerative facial oils and serums.
Revolution Beauty Ltd, Hydrating Moisture Mist (UK) is enriched with polyglutamic acid (PGA), derived from fermented soyabean to help bind water to the skin.
And, Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid Lipopeptide Serum (UK) was developed in Switzerland and is formulated with alteromonas ferment acid, a hyaluronic acid with three levels of plumping technology.
Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry.
The global pandemic helped boost the fortunes of European skincare brands, reflecting consumers’ desire to stay healthy and look after themselves. The pandemic also gave rise to two important trends: skincare products that promote healthy skin and the growth of products designed to work on the skin microbiome.
Those trends helped European facial skincare sales grow a healthy 8% in 2021 to reach $21.4 billion, according to GlobalData. The market research company anticipates a 4% gain to $22.2 billion in 2022. The top five European markets for facial skincare are Germany ($4.1 billion), France ($3.6 billion), UK ($3.2 billion), Italy ($1.9 billion) and Russia ($1.4 billion). GlobalData predicts sales in these markets will grow anywhere from 2% to 5% in 2022.
How Dry I Am
Hydration is at the top of the list of claims cited by European consumers in GlobalData’s Q3 2021 Consumer Survey Results—Europe.
“The claim ‘hydrating’ signals that dryness is likely a prominent concern,” comments Elise Robson, associate analyst, GlobalData. “Seventy-four percent of European consumers found this claim to be ‘very/somewhat’ appealing.”
This flies in the face of brands promoting a multiple product regime of products, some with strong actives, as they may cause skin problems resulting from overuse and too frequent exfoliation.
Countering the trend for strong actives is Byoma, a new UK brand. Byoma debuted during the initial covid-19 lockdown when “people were playing chemist in their bathrooms and experimenting with super-strength actives with less than desirable results,” according to Byoma Founder Marc Elrick on the company website.
Healthy Skin Trends
Protecting the skin barrier is a priority in promoting healthy skin. There have been several European launches that specifically target the microbiome. Made in Wales, Oskia Rest Day Barrier Repair Balm, contains colloidal oats, lupin seed, amino acids, probiotics, ceramides and bio-mimetic actives. A matte multi-purpose balm for dry, damaged or stressed skin, it is designed to protect and support the skin’s vital barrier function.
Like Byoma, U Beauty The Barrier Bioactive Treatment aims to streamline and shrink complicated regimens. The intensive overnight repairing mask contains vitamin B6, AHAs, salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, shea butter and purified oat extract to restore dull, dry and weathered complexions to a supple and radiant state.
Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream—aka The Bandage Balm for rapid skin barrier repair—is another overnight leave-on treatment. It is recommended for use before and after non-invasive procedures such as laser treatments, chemical peels and micro-needling.
Key ingredients are adaptogen 2%, oat protein, panthenol, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, ceramide and niacinamide to help soothe and repair compromised and post-procedure skin.
“Consumers are becoming more aware and knowledgeable about the importance of skin health, aided by the rise of digital lifestyles particularly since the start of the covid-19 pandemic,” maintains Robson.
“Over the past two years, many beauty and skin care experts took to digital platforms to share their knowledge and recommendations with consumers.”
YouTube, TikTok and Instagram have been particularly important to the growth of issues surrounding skin health, with experts using these platforms to launch in-depth tutorials to millions of consumers.
Targeting the Microbiome
The success of Gallinée, the French skin care range, sparked consumer interest in the microbiome.
More shoppers understand the importance of the skin microbiome. As a result, more mainstream beauty companies are launching skin care formulas that incorporate prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic ingredients.
“With an abundance of external factors like blue light, pollution, UV rays and masks affecting our skin, many consumers now actively search for products that will help maintain the health of their skin microbiome,” explained Robson, who highlighted two new European launches from the GlobalData database. Aurelia London Revitalize & Glow Serum has a super lightweight formulation containing probiotics to help calm the natural immune triggers in the skin that may be irritated by pollution and stress to promote healthy radiant skin.
Atelier Rebul Pre + Postbiotic Hyaluronic Serum (Turkey) is formulated with pre+probiotics, shea butter, avocado oil and vitamin E to help balance “good bacteria” in skin.
Fermented Ingredients
GlobalData reports an increase in European launches containing fermented ingredients. These new products debut, despite fermentation being an unfamiliar concept for many consumers.
Brands such as Drunk Elephant use fermented extracts to help support the health of micro-organisms within the skin microbiome.
For example, Florena, the brand owned by Beiersdorf, has a range of fermented skin care products, including hydrating and anti-aging face masks and creams, brightening masks, illuminating and regenerative facial oils and serums.
Revolution Beauty Ltd, Hydrating Moisture Mist (UK) is enriched with polyglutamic acid (PGA), derived from fermented soyabean to help bind water to the skin.
And, Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid Lipopeptide Serum (UK) was developed in Switzerland and is formulated with alteromonas ferment acid, a hyaluronic acid with three levels of plumping technology.
Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry.