Ally Dai, Freelance Writer06.01.23
Just like the rest of the world, the latest advancements in artificial intelligence, ChatGPT in particular, is making waves in China. The beauty industry, which has a history of pioneering novel concepts and borrowing innovative technologies across different disciplines, is also paying close attention to the AI movement.
One recent example is Beforteen, a teenage skin care brand recently launched by Yunnan Botanee, which is already well known for its blockbuster brand Winona. The new brand features personalized holistic acne treatments. By integrating AI into its customer consultation process, Beforteen recommends a customized solution of foods+pharmaceuticals+cosmetics based on different acne types.
Another notable example is Shanghai Jahwa, one of the oldest household and personal care companies in China. In April, in cooperation with Shanghai Daily Chemistry Trade Association (a well-established local social organization in China’s F&F, cosmetic and detergent industries) and other experts across disciplines, publicized a social organization standard on Data Analysis Methods for Skin Testing with Artificial Intelligence, the first of its kind in China. The standard reportedly covers eight major skin parameters such as wrinkle, acne, complexion, pore, eye bag and dark circles. The standard also includes skin type and sensitivity. Shanghai Jahwa and its partners aim to establish an industry consensus on measuring and defining Chinese skin age with algorithms that combine deep learning and traditional visual learning. It spells out detailed methods including image data collecting and captioning, establishing computational models via the algorithms, as well as conducting the verification and validation of algorithms-based analysis, in an attempt to assure the accuracy, reliability and safety of the algorithms.
The medical/pharmaceutical link makes perfect sense as the industry pursues science-backed safety and efficacy. One of the very latest examples is Newpage, a new baby skin care brand launched last month by Chicmax Group, an established local player. The premium brand positioned itself as “a pioneer in true medical co-operation model.” One of two leading R&D experts it highlighted is Dr. Cue Yutao, a pediatrician known in the local baby care community. Specifically targeting sensitive skin in infants and children, the brand focuses on “a unique four-layer skin barrier” and features its Omega-Pro technology. Omega-Pro is said to combine Omega 3, 6 and 7 extracted from natural foods and plants for skin barrier strengthening, to relieve sensitive skin symptoms like dryness, itch and redness.
It is no secret that skin barrier is the main focus of nearly every medical-positioned skin care brand in China. That includes Dr. Yu from aforementioned Jahwa. The brand entered the baby care market in 2021 by debuting its soothing cream for baby skin in cooperation with Ruijin Hospital of Shanghai. The product features a PBS (phyto-bionic sebum) technology to mimic the natural components in the skin barrier. The brand is now reportedly working with several local hospitals on clinical studies to assess the efficacy and safety of the cream in the prevention and alleviation of adolescent atopic dermatitis.
Undoubtedly infant and baby skin care is the category in urgent need of input from medical science, following several high-profile safety problems in recent years. Following the implementation of Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics for Children by NMPA (The National Medical Products Administration) in January 2022, Technical Guidelines for Children Cosmetics (Draft for Comments) was quickly released by the National Institutes for Food and Drug Control last April. Among other technical requirements, the draft guideline stipulates a stricter approach toward product development by cautioning against the use of fragrances containing 26 potential sensitizers in formulations.
Thus far, not a single hand-held RF Skin Treatment Device has been approved as Class III in China. However, we are now seeing a flurry of beauty players trying to get their device products endorsed by the science and regulatory certification, including OGP of Zhejiang Yige, the parent company of a popular makeup brand Florasis. One notable example is Guangzhou Flossom. This local beauty tech company registered an application with NMPA last month, for “A Clinical Study on Evaluating the Safety and Efficacy of RF Skin Treatment Device.” The move makes it the first to initiate such application process.
Ally Dai
Freelance Writer
allisondai@126.com
allydai73@gmail.com
Ally Dai is a freelance writer/independent consultant based in Shanghai. She has covered the beauty industry for more than 15 years. Previously a senior editor and industry researcher, she now works on content creation with publishing houses, event organizers and PR companies in the personal care and life science industries.
Upgrading on AI
When one considers the potential of virtual designers and Chatbots powered by this generative AI, she realizes that the industry embarked on its AI journey during its digital transformation years ago. For example, virtual makeup try-on with AR and streamlining the formulation process with optimization algorithms, both represent advances via AI. With this latest AI mania, a new round of innovation is clearly underway in every aspect of the beauty business.One recent example is Beforteen, a teenage skin care brand recently launched by Yunnan Botanee, which is already well known for its blockbuster brand Winona. The new brand features personalized holistic acne treatments. By integrating AI into its customer consultation process, Beforteen recommends a customized solution of foods+pharmaceuticals+cosmetics based on different acne types.
Another notable example is Shanghai Jahwa, one of the oldest household and personal care companies in China. In April, in cooperation with Shanghai Daily Chemistry Trade Association (a well-established local social organization in China’s F&F, cosmetic and detergent industries) and other experts across disciplines, publicized a social organization standard on Data Analysis Methods for Skin Testing with Artificial Intelligence, the first of its kind in China. The standard reportedly covers eight major skin parameters such as wrinkle, acne, complexion, pore, eye bag and dark circles. The standard also includes skin type and sensitivity. Shanghai Jahwa and its partners aim to establish an industry consensus on measuring and defining Chinese skin age with algorithms that combine deep learning and traditional visual learning. It spells out detailed methods including image data collecting and captioning, establishing computational models via the algorithms, as well as conducting the verification and validation of algorithms-based analysis, in an attempt to assure the accuracy, reliability and safety of the algorithms.
Delving into Medicine
Alongside this accelerated expansion of AI-driven digitalization, is the increasing adoption of other advanced technologies from different fields. Leading beauty players have been closely following the medical and pharmaceutical industries. This is evident demonstrated by the jargon buzzing within the industry in recent months, such as: “Co-creation with medical research.”The medical/pharmaceutical link makes perfect sense as the industry pursues science-backed safety and efficacy. One of the very latest examples is Newpage, a new baby skin care brand launched last month by Chicmax Group, an established local player. The premium brand positioned itself as “a pioneer in true medical co-operation model.” One of two leading R&D experts it highlighted is Dr. Cue Yutao, a pediatrician known in the local baby care community. Specifically targeting sensitive skin in infants and children, the brand focuses on “a unique four-layer skin barrier” and features its Omega-Pro technology. Omega-Pro is said to combine Omega 3, 6 and 7 extracted from natural foods and plants for skin barrier strengthening, to relieve sensitive skin symptoms like dryness, itch and redness.
It is no secret that skin barrier is the main focus of nearly every medical-positioned skin care brand in China. That includes Dr. Yu from aforementioned Jahwa. The brand entered the baby care market in 2021 by debuting its soothing cream for baby skin in cooperation with Ruijin Hospital of Shanghai. The product features a PBS (phyto-bionic sebum) technology to mimic the natural components in the skin barrier. The brand is now reportedly working with several local hospitals on clinical studies to assess the efficacy and safety of the cream in the prevention and alleviation of adolescent atopic dermatitis.
Undoubtedly infant and baby skin care is the category in urgent need of input from medical science, following several high-profile safety problems in recent years. Following the implementation of Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics for Children by NMPA (The National Medical Products Administration) in January 2022, Technical Guidelines for Children Cosmetics (Draft for Comments) was quickly released by the National Institutes for Food and Drug Control last April. Among other technical requirements, the draft guideline stipulates a stricter approach toward product development by cautioning against the use of fragrances containing 26 potential sensitizers in formulations.
More Verification Needed
In the new context of science-backed safety and efficacy, the accelerated move toward substantiating claims is no longer limited to formulations. The at-home, hand-held beauty device sector is the latest beauty segment vigorously pursuing this approach. The emphasis follows the well-received Medical Device Registration Certificate Number issued by NMPA. It has been long-recognized that the beauty device sector is full of opportunities and challenges, due to constantly rising consumer interest and vague regulatory standards. The tide has been turning since March 2022, when NMPA announced the adjustments to the existing Classification Catalog of Medical Devices. It reclassified part of aesthetic medical products from Class II (Mid-risk) to Class III (High-risk, therefore subjected to clinical verification and validation by officially certified medical institutions), which includes RF (Radio Frequency) skin treatment device for skin sagging, wrinkles, pores, acne and scars, as well as intradermal (dermis) injection of sodium hyaluronate. Consequently, at-home, hand-held RF skin treatment devices will no longer be allowed for production, importing and selling in China if not approved as Class III medical devices. The restriction goes into effect April 1, 2024.Thus far, not a single hand-held RF Skin Treatment Device has been approved as Class III in China. However, we are now seeing a flurry of beauty players trying to get their device products endorsed by the science and regulatory certification, including OGP of Zhejiang Yige, the parent company of a popular makeup brand Florasis. One notable example is Guangzhou Flossom. This local beauty tech company registered an application with NMPA last month, for “A Clinical Study on Evaluating the Safety and Efficacy of RF Skin Treatment Device.” The move makes it the first to initiate such application process.
A Long Road Ahead
Along with naturals and sustainability, technologies in IT and medical fields are making constant headlines in the beauty sector. The latest advancements are only accelerating this trend. However, before the market enjoys more success with such innovations, regulators may have the final say in how much the category grows.Ally Dai
Freelance Writer
allisondai@126.com
allydai73@gmail.com
Ally Dai is a freelance writer/independent consultant based in Shanghai. She has covered the beauty industry for more than 15 years. Previously a senior editor and industry researcher, she now works on content creation with publishing houses, event organizers and PR companies in the personal care and life science industries.