Tom Branna, Chief Content Officer10.02.23
It’s been 45 years since the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) published an advance notice of proposed rulemaking (ANPRM) to establish a monograph for over-the-counter sunscreen products. That notice lit a fire under the US suncare industry and the category has been a firestorm of regulatory controversy ever since that FDA move. The biannual Sunscreen Symposium hasn’t been around as long, but the topic of sun protection regulation remains controversial—in the US anyway. No surprise, then, that the latest edition of the Symposium attracted more than 650 attendees—a record—much to the delight of the organizer of the Florida Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (FLSCC).
“As chair-elect of the current FLSCC Board, I am extremely pleased with all aspects of the 2023 Sunscreen Symposium—from the technical programs, to the exhibitor programs and interactions, and the social events, including the ‘retro beach-themed’ gala,” said Theresa Fleming of Edgewell Personal Care. “The feedback we have received so far indicates that the prevailing reaction from our sponsors, exhibitors and attendees has been overwhelmingly positive and we are so grateful for the support that we have received.”
Symposium attendees heard from regulators, formulators, suppliers and other industry experts. The event opened with a survey of sunscreen usage among consumers. After all, even the best formulation is worthless if it’s not applied.
The Personal Care Products Council conducted an online survey of consumer sunscreen usage. Nearly 2,300 surveys were returned with enough data to be measured. The survey included 59 questions which were answered by 411 men and 1,872 women. Adults with children under 12 years of age accounted for 31% of responses. Unlike previous studies, which primarily focused on recreational use of sunscreen, this study evaluated how consumers use the wide variety of available sunscreen products, including facial skin care, cosmetics and lip care. But whatever they apply, most don’t apply enough sunscreen. Survey respondents were more likely to use sunscreens on sunny days, when spending more than three hours outside and participating in beach activities. Weather affects usage, too.
“Only 30% of beach goers apply sunscreen on a cloudy day,” noted Kimberly Norman, senior director, toxicology, PCPC.
Interestingly, lip protection is the least category impacted by weather as 40% apply products on cloudy days. Taking weather into reapplication consideration, 80% said they reapply on sunny days, but only 14% reapply on cloudy days. Finally, less than 15% of respondents know that the FDA regulates sunscreens as over-the-counter drugs requiring rigorous testing.
To improve aesthetics of liquid UV filters, he suggested combining emollients to create a “spreading cascade” to optimize smoothness during application. To improve the skin feel of inorganic filters, Hewitt recommended incorporating a three-part silica-based coating system.
Other factors that improve aesthetics include emulsifier selection and SPF boosters.
ACT Solutions’ Mark Chandler gave a rollicking presentation on improving aesthetics. One suggestion, try oil-in-water emulsions.
“Don’t be afraid of the water,” urged Chandler. “O/W emulsions are said to be SPF inefficient, but people love the way they feel.”
He suggested formulators put half of the oxide in oil and the rest in water “to divide and conquer.”
Chandler is a fan of lipophilic ferulic acid, too. He called it a powerful antioxidant and an excellent SPF boosting agent. That’s because antioxidants can help dissipate energy absorbed by inorganic sunscreens. Another excellent addition is polyhydroxy acids. PHAs provide the benefits of alpha hydroxy acids without impacting sun protection. Chandler also recommended adding propanediol for its moisturizing effects; silica to improve the aesthetics of W/O emulsions and titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to ensure broad spectrum protection.
“Even though retailers are a distribution channel, they are beginning to act as regulators,” warned Teixeira. “They are using their market power to enforce rules—not always intelligently—to turn the tables on us.”
Why are so many retailers moving toward clean? More consumers are asking about what’s in their products. It comes down to money, too, of course. Teixeira recalled a 2020 Mintel study that found consumers are willing to pay 50% premiums for clean body scrubs and 15% premiums for shampoos.
“Clearly, retailers get margin expansion, which leads to share expansion,” she observed. “For retailers, clean beauty is just business.”
Oxybenzone is the active most impacted by clean beauty standards; in contrast, titanium dioxide is the least impacted. But regardless of ingredient choice, ultimately some consumers want their days in court.
“As retailers define their policies and screen their products, they make mistakes,” warned Teixeira. “Then, the consumer catches them, starts questioning them and class action lawsuits begin.”
Looking ahead, Teixeira said some retailers may discontinue their “clean” departments. Some will phase out their own requirements in favor of Environment and Climate Change Canada (ECCC) requirements. Good Face Project and other groups are urging retailers to adopt a single definition of “clean.”
“But make no mistake; whatever they do, they will push more and more responsibility on to brands,” warned Teixeira. “With the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) coming, more responsibilities will be dropped on brand R&D and regulatory teams.”
That’s good and bad news for brands—more harmony and more responsibility.
“The aesthetics of these hybrid sunscreens are highly favored by consumers,” Kanjilal concluded.
Anna Howe, applied technology manager, North America for personal care, Evonik, told attendees that UV protection isn’t enough—consumers want more ethical and environmentally-friendly products. In fact, 7 of the 10 fastest-growing product claims between 2020 and 2022 were ethical or environmental claims.
Evonik is answering those demands with Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Sebacate Crosspolymer, a natural film former. According to Howe, the material is 100% bio-based, readily biodegradable, multifunctional, natural and marine-safe. With its reduced carbon footprint, it is a good alternative to film formers derived from fossil fuels. From an efficacy standpoint, it offers long-lasting protection, excellent emulsion stability, broad textures and good sensorial benefits when compared to VP acrylate copolymer films.
“Consumers want UV protection, natural ingredients, good sensorial properties and long-lasting effectiveness,” noted Howe. “Our readily natural-based film former performs as well as the synthetic benchmark.”
Dijana Hadziselimovic, manager, laboratory technical services, Steris, reminded attendees that the cleaning of sunscreen manufacturing equipment is subject to regulatory oversight. Such oversight ensures product integrity and lot integrity and reduces the chance of cross-contamination or microbial compromise. Hadziselimovic reviewed equipment selection, cleaning agent screening, soil composition and residue limits.
The final cleaning validation package recollects:
“One thing that was a pleasant surprise to me, as the incoming FLSCC chair for 2024-25, was the number of speakers, sponsors and attendees who are already looking forward to the next event,” said Theresa Fleming of Edgewell Personal Care.
For more on the Symposium, visit Happi.com and be sure to read the November issue of Happi.
“As chair-elect of the current FLSCC Board, I am extremely pleased with all aspects of the 2023 Sunscreen Symposium—from the technical programs, to the exhibitor programs and interactions, and the social events, including the ‘retro beach-themed’ gala,” said Theresa Fleming of Edgewell Personal Care. “The feedback we have received so far indicates that the prevailing reaction from our sponsors, exhibitors and attendees has been overwhelmingly positive and we are so grateful for the support that we have received.”
Symposium attendees heard from regulators, formulators, suppliers and other industry experts. The event opened with a survey of sunscreen usage among consumers. After all, even the best formulation is worthless if it’s not applied.
The Personal Care Products Council conducted an online survey of consumer sunscreen usage. Nearly 2,300 surveys were returned with enough data to be measured. The survey included 59 questions which were answered by 411 men and 1,872 women. Adults with children under 12 years of age accounted for 31% of responses. Unlike previous studies, which primarily focused on recreational use of sunscreen, this study evaluated how consumers use the wide variety of available sunscreen products, including facial skin care, cosmetics and lip care. But whatever they apply, most don’t apply enough sunscreen. Survey respondents were more likely to use sunscreens on sunny days, when spending more than three hours outside and participating in beach activities. Weather affects usage, too.
“Only 30% of beach goers apply sunscreen on a cloudy day,” noted Kimberly Norman, senior director, toxicology, PCPC.
Interestingly, lip protection is the least category impacted by weather as 40% apply products on cloudy days. Taking weather into reapplication consideration, 80% said they reapply on sunny days, but only 14% reapply on cloudy days. Finally, less than 15% of respondents know that the FDA regulates sunscreens as over-the-counter drugs requiring rigorous testing.
Optimizing Aesthetics
Everyone knows consumers don’t apply enough sunscreen, Julian Hewitt, founder, JPH Suncare Technologies, knows why. “As the PCPC survey pointed out, skin feel is driving consumer decisions; consumers seek products that look and feel good on skin,” noted Hewitt. “Efficacy and elegance are not mutually exclusive—the two are interconnected. If we improve the efficacy of filters, we can use less actives and actives are the primary culprit in aesthetics. If we improve aesthetics, we improve compliance.”To improve aesthetics of liquid UV filters, he suggested combining emollients to create a “spreading cascade” to optimize smoothness during application. To improve the skin feel of inorganic filters, Hewitt recommended incorporating a three-part silica-based coating system.
Other factors that improve aesthetics include emulsifier selection and SPF boosters.
ACT Solutions’ Mark Chandler gave a rollicking presentation on improving aesthetics. One suggestion, try oil-in-water emulsions.
“Don’t be afraid of the water,” urged Chandler. “O/W emulsions are said to be SPF inefficient, but people love the way they feel.”
He suggested formulators put half of the oxide in oil and the rest in water “to divide and conquer.”
Chandler is a fan of lipophilic ferulic acid, too. He called it a powerful antioxidant and an excellent SPF boosting agent. That’s because antioxidants can help dissipate energy absorbed by inorganic sunscreens. Another excellent addition is polyhydroxy acids. PHAs provide the benefits of alpha hydroxy acids without impacting sun protection. Chandler also recommended adding propanediol for its moisturizing effects; silica to improve the aesthetics of W/O emulsions and titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to ensure broad spectrum protection.
‘Clean beauty’ trends impact sunscreens
The session’s final speaker was Good Face Project Founder Iva Teixeira who reviewed the sunscreen landscape at “clean retail.” Good Face Project reviews the stocking policies of retailers like Credo, Ulta, Target and Amazon, which are leading the charge at clean retail and changing the face of retail in Europe and Asia, too.“Even though retailers are a distribution channel, they are beginning to act as regulators,” warned Teixeira. “They are using their market power to enforce rules—not always intelligently—to turn the tables on us.”
Why are so many retailers moving toward clean? More consumers are asking about what’s in their products. It comes down to money, too, of course. Teixeira recalled a 2020 Mintel study that found consumers are willing to pay 50% premiums for clean body scrubs and 15% premiums for shampoos.
“Clearly, retailers get margin expansion, which leads to share expansion,” she observed. “For retailers, clean beauty is just business.”
Oxybenzone is the active most impacted by clean beauty standards; in contrast, titanium dioxide is the least impacted. But regardless of ingredient choice, ultimately some consumers want their days in court.
“As retailers define their policies and screen their products, they make mistakes,” warned Teixeira. “Then, the consumer catches them, starts questioning them and class action lawsuits begin.”
Looking ahead, Teixeira said some retailers may discontinue their “clean” departments. Some will phase out their own requirements in favor of Environment and Climate Change Canada (ECCC) requirements. Good Face Project and other groups are urging retailers to adopt a single definition of “clean.”
“But make no mistake; whatever they do, they will push more and more responsibility on to brands,” warned Teixeira. “With the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) coming, more responsibilities will be dropped on brand R&D and regulatory teams.”
That’s good and bad news for brands—more harmony and more responsibility.
Building Better Formulas
Responsible formulators should create aesthetically pleasing sunscreens for all Fitzpatrick skin types, said Maitree Kanjilal, principal scientist, Kobo Products. She urged chemists to formulate high protection sunscreens for all skin tones by combining a minimum load of organic sunscreens with zinc oxide. She explained that octisalate and homosalate, at maximum global levels, when combined with zinc oxide, provide the best UVA protection with high SPF factor.“The aesthetics of these hybrid sunscreens are highly favored by consumers,” Kanjilal concluded.
Anna Howe, applied technology manager, North America for personal care, Evonik, told attendees that UV protection isn’t enough—consumers want more ethical and environmentally-friendly products. In fact, 7 of the 10 fastest-growing product claims between 2020 and 2022 were ethical or environmental claims.
Evonik is answering those demands with Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Sebacate Crosspolymer, a natural film former. According to Howe, the material is 100% bio-based, readily biodegradable, multifunctional, natural and marine-safe. With its reduced carbon footprint, it is a good alternative to film formers derived from fossil fuels. From an efficacy standpoint, it offers long-lasting protection, excellent emulsion stability, broad textures and good sensorial benefits when compared to VP acrylate copolymer films.
“Consumers want UV protection, natural ingredients, good sensorial properties and long-lasting effectiveness,” noted Howe. “Our readily natural-based film former performs as well as the synthetic benchmark.”
Dijana Hadziselimovic, manager, laboratory technical services, Steris, reminded attendees that the cleaning of sunscreen manufacturing equipment is subject to regulatory oversight. Such oversight ensures product integrity and lot integrity and reduces the chance of cross-contamination or microbial compromise. Hadziselimovic reviewed equipment selection, cleaning agent screening, soil composition and residue limits.
The final cleaning validation package recollects:
- A summary of the cleaning protocol;
- All executed protocols and revisions;
- Data from all cleaning runs;
- Copies of cleaning records and/or procedures;
- Routine monitoring of cleanliness after validation;
- Conclusions regarding the cleaning validation process; and
- Approval page.
Plans Are Set for 2025
The 2025 Sunscreen Symposium will be back at Disney’s Yacht & Beach Club, Sept. 18-20, 2025. The Florida Chapter is already working on the event.“One thing that was a pleasant surprise to me, as the incoming FLSCC chair for 2024-25, was the number of speakers, sponsors and attendees who are already looking forward to the next event,” said Theresa Fleming of Edgewell Personal Care.
For more on the Symposium, visit Happi.com and be sure to read the November issue of Happi.