Phase A-1 | |
Demineralized Water | 67.85 |
Avicel PC 591 (Dupont) (Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum) | 0.60 |
Satiaxane VPC 911 (Cargill) (Xanthan Gum) | 0.30 |
Phase A-2 | |
Vanatural (RT Vanderbilt) (Bentonite) | 2.00 |
Phase B | |
Emulium Dolcea MB (Gattefosse) (Cetearly Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Water, Polyglycerin-3) | 5.00 |
Lipocire A SG (Gattefosse) (C10-18 Triglycerides) | 5.00 |
Definicire (Gattefosse) (Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Polyglycerin-3) | 5.00 |
Compritol 888 CG MB (Gattefosse) (Glyceryl Behenate) | 2.00 |
Kahlwax 2442L (Kahl) (Corpenicia Cerifera (Carnuba) Wax) | 2.00 |
Kahlwax 6607L (Kahl) (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol) | 4.00 |
Labrafac CC MB (Gattefosse) (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) | 4.00 |
Preservative | 1.00 |
Phase C | |
Natpure Film AP (Sensient) (Pullulan, Sorbitol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Trehalose) | 1.00 |
Phase D | |
Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) | 0.25 |
Procedure | |
Heat B at 85°C. Check that all ingredients are melted (could present some turbidity due to Emulium Dolcea MB) and maintain the phase at 85°C. Heat the water of phase A1 at 70°C. Add Avicel PC591 and Satiaxane VPC 911 one by one and disperse under medium/high shar for 15 minutes each. Check that everything is dispersed homogenously. Add Phase A2 to Phase A1 and disperse with Ultra Turrax for 10 minutes. Check that everything is dispersed homogenously. Heat the water Phase A1 +A2 at 85°C. Proceed with the emulsion of Phase B into Phase A (A1 + A2) at 85°C under medium shear, and then increase to high shear (3,000 rpm) for 10-15 minutes. Cool down by stages of 5-10°C with moderate stirring, and below 45°C add phase C. Finish to cool down until reaching 25°C. Adjust pH if necessary (Phase D). | |
Properties | |
Aspect: Soft white cream. pH: 7.6± 0.3. Natural origin > 98% (ISO 16128). Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle B, speed 5): approx. 4000 mPa.s at t0, approx. 7000 mPa.s after 24h. | |
More Information | |
Gattefossé www.gattefosse.com |