01.11.24
In North America, hair color enthusiasts continue to seek effective permanent hair color solutions.
Croda says its bio-based phosphate esters bring a “fresh perspective” on how to add sustainable claims to permanent and demi-permanent hair color systems in today’s beauty market.
Per Mintel GNPD, there were 1,180 global hair colorant product launches in 2023 that carried a sustainability claim, signifying the rise in clean beauty and demand for transparency.
“Our phosphate esters are great ingredients with excellent benefits in hair colorants and developers,” said Julieta Nava, hair color applications scientist. “We now have 100% bio-based versions of these materials with their EBC (elevated bio-based content) variants which can help to increase the bio-based and naturally derived content of formulations that they are incorporated into.”
Croda’s solution is the EBC Crodafos Range.
EBC Crodafos CES is 100% naturally-derived and ideal for crème texture; EBC Crodafos CS20A is ideal for lotion texture; and EBC Crodafos HCE is ideal for liquid texture.
When an oxidative hair colorant containing Crodafos phosphate esters mixes with a developer, the dye intermediate complex is structurally protected and can only be broken by shear stress during hair color application. Therefore, the dye intermediate penetrates the hair cortex with a smaller molecular weight and can begin oxidation coupling for a higher dye uptake and faster hair coloring rate.
“Croda has an extensive portfolio of ingredients with many that work very well in hair color applications,” said Marni Dexter, applications manager. “Our plans are driven by various market needs including sustainability, more naturally derived formulations, and unique textures. We are also currently working on semi-permanent and temporary hair color formulations and evaluating some existing and new materials in these types of systems.”