Johnson & Johnson Consumer Health is exploring new areas of research in skin health. The company’s latest findings are being presented this week at the American Academy of Dermatology’s annual meeting. The Academy meets in Boston through March 29. Through 11 poster presentations, J&J researchers highlight work underway on vitamin C, oats, skin aging and sun care.

For example, one poster is devoted to findings regarding high concentration (15%) vitamin C (ascorbic acid) stabilized in a unique aqueous vehicle with feverfew, polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). According to J&J, the formula provides clinical benefits for hyperpigmentation in a diverse population.

J&J Consumer Health Scientific Engagement Director Menas Kizoulis told Happi that the proprietary technology enables J&J to achieve high loads of vitamin C (15%), at a pH level just over 4.

“The lower the pH level the better,” noted Kizoulis. “But you have to be sure that it’s not too low to be irritating.”

The formula also contains feverfew, PHA and EGCG at levels ranging from 1-2%. Feverfew provided more antioxidant properties and the PHA is mild on the skin and has interesting chelation properties as well, according to Kizoulis. J&J performed a 12-week study on subjects who ranged across the Fitzpatrick scale. All of them reported outstanding user experiences, according to Kizoulis. As a result, J&J is rolling out a high-end vitamin C serum under the Neostrata brand. The formula will be available online later this spring.

Neostrata has a rich history in glycolic acid. Neostrata was founded by Drs. Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu in 1988. J&J acquired the brand in 2016. J&J continues that legacy with research involving a 10% multi-acid serum. The formula contains 5% glycolic acid, 2.5% mandelic acid and 2.5% gluconolactone. While the glycolic acid exfoliates skin to improve cell turnover, the mandelic acid reduces sebum levels. Finally, the gluconolactone dissolves dead skin cells and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

J&J research into topical oat-containing formulas builds on the company’s existing data. In fact, J&J’s 2020 study of the anti-inflammatory activity of colloidal oatmeal was one of the top five most-viewed articles in The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. The company continues to study the anti-inflammatory effects of oat. Now, research is focused on the biological markers associated with atopic psoriasis and eczema.

“We’re looking at particulate matter, heat, humidity, UV and a whole host of factors,” noted Kizoulis. “Oat-containing formulas help mitigate these aggressors.”

In another poster, J&J researchers evaluated the mildness of a glycinate-based cleanser through in vitro methodologies and computational modeling. Consumers often seek high-foaming cleansers, because the foam signals efficacy. But traditional surfactants can irritate skin. J&J’s glycinate technology prevents the penetration of the surfactant into the skin which, in turn, drives compliance and usage. This research is behind a product launch in Asia and the glycinate platform provides the opportunity for more NPD.


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In another study conducted in Asia, J&J researchers worked with dermatologists and psychologists to better understand the role that mental stress plays in skin aging. Kizoulis noted that the medical community understands the importance of emotional well-being. Stress impacts skin health as well as systemic health. Throughout the Covid-19 pandemic, there was high incidence of stress, anxiety and depression.

“We talked to dermatologists and psychologists about the impact of stress on skin aging,” said Kizoulis. “The derms told us that there is a strong link between emotional stress and skin aging.”
For example, when stressed, cortisol levels rise which causes a breakdown in collagen and elastin. Furthermore, inflammation is linked to emotional stress. But when J&J polled physicians, just 60% were familiar with the term “inflammaging.”

“We have to do a better job of educating everyone about the role that stress plays in skin health,” said Kizoulis. “We see a lot of opportunities to help patients and their doctors.”


UV Protection

No discussion about skin health is complete without research involving UV protection. During the AAD annual meeting, J&J Consumer Health is presenting several posters on proper sun care. One is devoted to using behavior encoded 3D body models to measure acute and cumulative erythemal sun exposure on vulnerable body sites during beach vacations. Another poster examines sunburn incidence in the context of race/ethnicity and skin type. A third provides real-world evidence on sunscreen compliance and photodamage perception among consumers and dermatologists.

Using the 3D body models, J&J researchers can obtain quantitative numbers on the amount of exposure in order to determine which areas of the body are more prone to sun damage. According to Kizoulis, it’s a unique way to look at sun exposure.

In its research regarding UV and Fitzpatrick Skin Type, Kizoulis noted that, regardless of skin tone, all skin can burn. The J&J survey found a higher incidence of burn in darker skin tones.

“We’re trying to get a better understanding of sun protection behaviors. The US Centers for Disease Control has tracked sunburn rates for years,” he noted. “The data show some subsets still have high sunburn rates. We’re trying to better understand this issue.”

Johnson & Johnson Consumer Health also announced it is collaborating with AAD and the Janssen Pharmaceutical Companies of Johnson & Johnson on the launch of the “Pathways: Inclusivity in Dermatology” initiative to increase the number of practicing dermatologists in the U.S. who are from the Black, Latino, and Indigenous communities, which are underrepresented minorities (URM) in medicine. For more information about the “Pathways: Inclusivity in Dermatology” program, click here. 

As a leader in the health care space, J&J uses the AAD to showcase its research, communicate it directly to health care providers and build awareness.

“The annual meeting is a great way to get their reaction to this data and foster partnerships with dermatologists going forward,” concluded Kizoulis.