Aside from the exhibition, the Innovation Zone was back with an easily-accessible collection of the best new products. Each product in this area was entered into the In-Cosmetics Innovation Zone Awards and Givaudan Active Beauty has won the Gold prize for the “Best Innovation Ingredient Award” with the anti-aging active ingredient PrimalHyal Ultrafiller.
The new Spotlight On program focused on various market categories, such as hair care and anti-aging, where attendees could test and learn more about functional and active ingredients. Chemyunion was awarded first prize with its Make Up Eraser.
According to João Carlos Basilio, president of the Brazilian Association of Industry of Personal Hygiene, Perfumery and Cosmetics (ABIHPEC), the beauty industry is the second most innovative sector in Brazil. Every two years, about 30% of revenue comes from new launches, which means a 100% renewal of the portfolio every six years. The biggest gains have come from perfumery (8.1%), skin care (5.4%) and male cosmetics (4.3%).
Basilio took advantage of the occasion to present the most current figures in the industry. Brazil is among the Big 4 in the personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics market (behind the US, China and Japan), he said. Last year, Brazil’s hair care and oral hygiene market rose to No. 3 in the world. Basilio forecasts moderate growth,1.5-2% this year, reflecting exchange rate fluctuations that affect the entire production chain. However, he stated that ABIHPEC members are optimistic as the growth prospects for perfumery, skin care, men’s cosmetics and even wipes, which are expected to grow 4.5% this year.
“The perfumery market is growing at a high rate due to the real crisis. Imported products are more expensive, which increases the competitiveness of domestic ones,” he explained. “Increased consumer awareness about personal care is another trigger for industry growth, as it is more related to quality of life than vanity.”
For the first time, In-Cosmetics Latin America featured a free regulatory conference organized by the Council of Latin American Cosmetic, Personal Care and Home Care Industries (CASIC), one of the most important associations in the region. CASIC has headquarters in Montevideo, Uruguay.
During the session, Euromonitor International analysts noted that Latin American beauty sales will reach $77 billion by 2022. CASIC Vice President Luciana Santi and Executive Director Ariel Saiz provided analysis of regulatory issues and explained how the Council has been working closely with health and trade authorities from several countries for a clear convergence of best international regulatory practices.
A Noticeable Market
According to the Euromonitor, the entry of chains such as Cromantic, Blush Bar and Blind in Colombia, along with the introduction of MAC Cosmetics, Bobbi Brown, Benefit and Urban Decay in Bolivia, Peru and Panama, lifted the Latin American beauty market. The segment received a boost from higher sales for long-time players like Belcorp, Yanbal, L’Oréal and Mary Kay.
Considering per capita spending, Chile is at the top with $ 182 per year, followed by Uruguay ($170) and Brazil ($153). Yet, Mexico, Colombia, Peru, Ecuador and Paraguay did not reach $90. According to ABIHPEC, Latin America accounts for 14.1% of global beauty sales, led by sales in Brazil (49.1%), followed by Mexico (14.4%), Argentina (8.3%) and Chile and Colombia tied (5%).
Once again, In-Cosmetics Latin America included a wide-ranging education program. Dozens of workshops and technical seminars ensured beauty professionals left the show with a wealth of knowledge and new formulation techniques to try. For example, in a marketing trends presentation, Nina Giglio of WGSN said that personal well-being is a beauty trend.
“Brazilians are among the most anxious in the world and the cosmetics market is where Brazilians seek emotional health,” she said.
She reviewed moisturizers with mosses, anti-aging products made with tofu and the skin and hair products that incorporate red sage root to reduce the impact of urban pollution.
Beautystreams, a global beauty consultancy, presented fragrance products that react with the user’s skin aroma to create a personalized scent. New application forms such as stick perfumes, perfumed tissue paper and makeup powder match well with consumers who have an increasingly dynamic life. According to Beautystreams, marketers must consider the consumer’s consumption patterns as they travel between home, work and school. These patterns create new opportunities for the cosmetics industry to make more practical products.
Mintel reported on shifting trends in hair care, showing how skin care trends can boost the development of products for the scalp.
“Today’s products are more concerned with hair and do not consider the scalp as an area that needs to be cared for,” Andrew McDougall, global hair care specialist at Mintel. “[Scalp care] should increase with the knowledge of how much pollution affects the human body.”
Meanwhile, Juliana Martins, senior beauty and personal care research specialist at Mintel, reported that damage is still a top concern among Brazilians—whether they are coloring, treating or styling hair. Mintel found 43% of women look for hair care products that repair damage; 30% go to salons for moisturizing hair treatments; and 29% say that coloring the hair regularly is damaging.
To reduce damage, some companies are exploring “micellar” hair care options that take their cues from micellar skin care formulas. Primers are another hair prophylactic which, much like skin care, are designed to create an even base that can help styles last longer and protect hair from heat styling. In Brazil, 31% of women are interested in using primers (applied before coloring) to make hair color last longer.
Martins also highlighted the increasing popularity of naturals which, rightly or wrongly, are perceived as purer and safer. Natural beauty is gaining traction in Brazil, as 41% of consumers said they are interested in a wide selection of natural/free from chemicals; 51% of ethical/green product users do so because they feel good when they do things to help the environment; 22% of consumers said they would pay more for products from environmentally responsible brands, and 18% of Brazilian women said they are buying more from brands that are environmentally-friendly.
The exhibition provided a good opportunity for raw material suppliers to showcase their latest innovations. Sensient presented Sensistyle Curl Relaxer, an all-in-one multi-benefit natural hair relaxer technology that is formaldehyde-free. It was developed from a complex polypetidic chain of vegetal origin enriched with bionutrients. Sensistyle is said to reduce volume, add nutrients and smooth hair. Compatible with other ingredients, Sensistyle makes it possible to create multi-benefit formulas that do more besides treating hair and reducing fading.
Cargill Beauty introduced Beauty System 1.0 for Skin Care. The new formulations use just three key ingredients: Actigum VSX 20, a universal texturizer; Emultop Velvet IP, an innovative lecithin; and Agripure AP-75 R, a high oleic rapeseed oil. Beauty System 1.0 gives formulators an array of options for their natural and ethical beauty products using these three core ingredients to create products that are safe, simple, versatile, affordable, nature-derived and sustainable.
Givaudan Active Beauty’s “fragrance on the move” concept includes four materials that are said to merge cosmetics and fine fragrances to enhance consumers’ daily beauty routines. This concept comprises:
- Attraction. A neck and décolleté lotion featuring Megassane, a skin tone highlighter and Neurophroline, an overall skin stress control.
- Perfection. A dry body oil with SPF 20. It features Nyamplung oil; Questice Liquid, a long-lasting body cooler; and Uniprotect PT-3, a powerful skin protector against UV, Perfection protects and repairs the skin from all external aggressions. Fruity top notes are enhanced with several marine notes for summer sensation.
- Affirmation. A hair elixir to beautify the hair and leave a precious mark with its floral, fruity and woody olfactive notes. The formula features ResistHyal, a 7-in-1 hair beauty enhancer, Kendi Oil, a miraculous oil and Glossyliance, a hair shine ingredient. Affirmation is said to impart softness, hydration and volume to hair with a glossy effect.
Givaudan Active Beauty earned gold recognition for PrimalHyal Ultrafiller, one of its newest anti-aging actives. According to the company, the material offers a cosmetic alternative to injectable fillers. PrimalHyal is a sustainable HA derivative and 100% acetylated.
Chemyunion walked away with top honors for Makeup Eraser. This rinse-free makeup remover stick differs from traditional gels, solutions and micellar water in that it is completely transportable. It is said to easily remove makeup with a tissue without irritation.
Thanks to the action of Chemysoap S 3R and Sensactive L-30, Makeup Eraser cleanses, moisturizes and restores the skin barrier without leaving an oily residue.
The product matches well with three trends, convenience, portability and athleisure. Chemyunion notes that the gym has become a place for exercise and socialization, where consumers search for products that can be used before, during and after training.
Beraca presented Tucumã butter, a natural, efficient alternative to silicones in skin care formulations. Its spreadability and light texture enable formulators to create dry formulas. Rich in
polyunsaturated fatty acids, the non-hydrogenated material is said to be very stable.
Beraca also introduced Beracare ARS Skin, an active that adds luminosity to skin and protects and maintains a tattoo’s color and brightness.
Kaapi Fragrâncias, a Brazilian fragrance supplier, relied on chromatographic techniques to create novel gourmand-floral scents such as Flower of Jabuticaba with Belgian Chocolate, Gardenia with Indian Cake, Jasmine of Azores with Melon, Jasmine Sambac with Biscuit of Cumaru, White Garland-Lily with Lemon Mousse and Cattleya Orchid with Chocolate.
Mark your calendars for next year as In-Cosmetics Latin America returns to Expo Center Norte in São Paulo on September 18 & 19.
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. At present she is master´s degree student in fashion program at São Paulo University (USP) with research project about fashion and fragrance and also including works presented at conferences. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities. She also has a blog about perfume, its interactions and insights for the market (https://olfativo360.com.br/)