Christine Esposito, Managing Editor07.03.23
A salon-grade, leave-in heat protection spray was found to have Burkholderia cepacia complex. A kids bubble bath and mass market skin moisturizers contained bacterium Pluralibacter gergoviae.
These contaminated products can be found on the US Food & Drug Administration’s list of recalls from 2022. More recently this year, an OTC eye drop labeled as “preservative free” made headlines when it was linked to a bacterial infection that left one person dead and three others with permanent vision loss, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The company issued a product recall as cases were reported in California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Nevada, Texas, Utah, Washington and Wisconsin.
These are just a few reminders for consumers why proper preservation is necessary in cosmetics, OTC and personal care. Brands of all sizes—from those under the tight leash of multinational corporations to lean-running clean beauty startups—must work with preservatives experts that offer modern products and deep expertise that makes it possible to navigate between safety, consumer sentiment and regulations.
Take for example, Washington State HB 1047, which Governor Jay Inslee recently signed into law. The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) says the bill wrongly targets critical time-released preservatives that help protect consumers from the harmful effects of microbial contamination and infection.
According to PCPC: “House Bill 1047 ignores science and hurts Washington businesses. This bill eliminates important cosmetics and personal care products preservatives that are not formaldehyde and are considered safe by regulatory authorities worldwide. Formaldehyde-releasing ingredients (e.g., DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea) are used safely as preservatives to kill microorganisms, or to prevent or inhibit their growth in products.”
“Formulators face the challenge of regulatory uncertainty,” noted Dr. Sabrina Behnke, senior global business manager – modern preservatives, Tri-K Industries, Denville, NJ.
Behnke also cited the Washington State legislation and its impact on frequently used preservatives that are considered safe by regulatory authorities worldwide.
“This lack of alignment with ingredient restrictions in regions like the European Union creates difficulties for formulators. On a positive note, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022 aims to establish a uniform national framework, benefiting the industry,” she told Happi.
Consumer sentiment remains a challenge, too.
“We still see a lot of requests for preservative-free technologies coming from our customers. Formulators understand the importance of properly preserved finished formulations, but the perception of preservatives in the general public is still somewhat negative. We believe that this notion is coming from the food industry where foods with preservatives are seen as inferior and undesired,” added Behnke.
But after years of pushback from consumers, there is some positive movement, and leading brands are committed to using technology that protects their products and their consumers.
“Thanks to an increased focus by highly regarded brands in the personal care industry, consumers are becoming more knowledgeable when it comes to preservatives,” noted Lisa M. Jones, regional vice president, Southwest, at Coast Southwest, Inc. “The market continues to have strong preferences for products that are preserved non-traditionally, and certainly consumers know ingredients they want to avoid—including parabens and formaldehyde donors.”
However, instead of demanding “preservative-free,” Jones said her company’s customers say the marketplace is recognizing that appropriate preservative systems are necessary to ensure the quality and integrity of personal care products.
Jones continued, “Awareness has increased, especially over the past few years. It has been a good opportunity for us to collaborate with our customers to demonstrate how important preservatives—when used appropriately and responsibly—are to the health and safety of consumers.”
The HydroGuard series offers “sustainable, multifunctional alternatives to preservatives with value add to end formulations, such as antioxidant, humectant and/or emollient just to name a few,” Lutz added.
Additional solutions from Lincoln Mfg include Essynce ST, a USDA certified organic, all-natural alternative to preservatives. It is a multifunctional stabilizer that enhances formulation stability.
Formulators can also source Lincoln Mfg’s Linatural Ultra-3 and Linatural MBS-Clear. Linatural Ultra-3 is a multifunctional antimicrobial system based on all-natural ingredients that is designed to have multifunctional performance, such as emolliency and moisturization, for personal care formulations. In addition to the functionality, Linatural Ultra-3 protects the formulations from micro contamination. Linatural MBS-Clear is a naturally derived multifunctional microbial blocking system that works as a strong alternative to traditional preservation. Water-soluble with conditioning properties, Linatural MBS-Clear is a mild component well-suited to gentler formulations.
According to Behnke, Tri-K is witnessing a rise in sales of multifunctionals/boosters, which are not registered preservatives as per the European Cosmetics Regulation.
“These multifunctionals have the ability to help protect formulations effectively. Formulators now have access to advanced technologies that offer multiple benefits and address the negative perception of traditional preservatives,” she said.
Tri-K’s latest preservative innovation is Galguard Lipo G lipidated glycines.
“Extensive studies have shown that Galguard Lipo G works exceptionally well as a multifunctional ingredient, allowing formulators to reduce the dosage of traditional preservatives while providing additional sought-after benefits such as sebum regulation, control of acne- and dandruff-causing organisms, and pH regulation,” Behnke noted.
“The benefits of our new preservative technologies are twofold,” she added. “First, they enable formulators to decrease preservative dosage while maintaining efficacy, which is cost-effective and aligns with consumer demand for reduced preservatives. Second, these technologies offer additional advantages such as sebum regulation, control of acne- and dandruff-causing organisms, and pH regulation, enhancing the overall performance and appeal of the formulations.”
Tri-K also offers formulators two complete preservative blends: Galguard Tetra and Galguard Trident S.
Galguard Tetra (INCI: Capryloyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl, Glycine, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid) combines lipidated glycines with phenoxyethanol and an organic acid, providing superior anti-fungal efficacy. Galguard Trident S (INCI: Capryloyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl, Glycine, Benzoic Acid) is a phenoxyethanol-free blend that maintains uncompromised efficacy. Both blends offer easy incorporation and are recommended for use at a level of 1% in formulations, according to the company.
Clean beauty continues to trend in the category, and preservation experts are developing more options.
Jeecide CAP-7 (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glyceryl Laurate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate), for example, is a multifunctional cosmetic antimicrobial system designed to meet the clean beauty criteria of most manufacturers, according to Vantage. This clear liquid is easy to formulate with, and is free of phenoxyethanol, parabens, MITs and formaldehyde releasers. It can be used in combination with traditional cosmetic preservatives to boost their efficacy or alone to prevent microbial growth in preservative-free formulations. Jeecide CAP-7 has excellent antimicrobial properties against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold, too.
According to Vantage’s Sebastien Massard, formulators looking for complete peace-of-mind and broad-spectrum efficacy can turn to Jeecide CAP-5 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Water (and) Hexylene Glycol). This synergistic, easy-to-use clear liquid preservative is free of parabens and formaldehyde donors. Jeecide CAP-5 is effective against bacteria, yeast and mold, and is compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers, and is toxicologically safe for use.
Further, Vantage has also developed several concepts to help formulators find alternatives to traditional preservatives systems or reduce the need for them, including in waterless products.
Waterless products have the advantage of requiring less or no preservative systems, said Massard, who pointed to Vantage’s Concentrated Conditioner Drops—a finalist in the 2023 CEW Beauty Creators Award—as an example. The waterless pills were formulated with Jeesperse NOLO N1, a new self-emulsifying wax, allowing formulators to develop innovative at-home hair care concepts for all hair types, Massard told Happi.
Leading providers like Coast Southwest work closely with customers to find new solutions.
“At Coast Southwest, we regularly work with our suppliers to identify innovative systems to preserve personal care products non-traditionally,” said Jones. “For example, there are fragrance ingredients with INCI names that are not recognized as preservatives, yet boost preservative performance. It will be interesting and exciting over the next few years to explore the antimicrobial properties of preservative blends, using traditional preservatives and ‘non-preservative’ food-grade materials, such as maltol.”
Coast Southwest—which is set to open its new 105,660-square-foot corporate HQ in Irving, TX—works extensively with Sharon Personal Care to create innovative preservative systems and blends.
“When it comes to preservatives, they and we follow the mantra of ‘less is more,’” said Jones, who pointed to products like Sharon’s Amplify technology.
“Amplify ups the efficacy of preservative systems. With Amplify ingredients, brands can ensure the quality and integrity of their products by using preservatives adequately, but not in excess,” noted Jones.
Jones also called attention to products like Sharon’s new SharoSense Plus 785, a Cosmos-approved and eco-friendly broad-spectrum preservative system that meets standards for brands that are “clean beauty enthusiasts.”
According to Jones, Coast Southwest was an early adopter of this technology, and customers have found benefits.
“This technology uses natural maltol, a food material which people have been consuming for many years. Our emphasis with the SharoSense and other innovative technologies is to help our customers understand how these preservative systems work differently from other blends so they not only can capture the benefits of more efficient and sustainable preservative systems, but so they can explain how they use preservatives to their customers as ingredient transparency becomes even more of a focus with consumers than it already is.”
These contaminated products can be found on the US Food & Drug Administration’s list of recalls from 2022. More recently this year, an OTC eye drop labeled as “preservative free” made headlines when it was linked to a bacterial infection that left one person dead and three others with permanent vision loss, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The company issued a product recall as cases were reported in California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Nevada, Texas, Utah, Washington and Wisconsin.
These are just a few reminders for consumers why proper preservation is necessary in cosmetics, OTC and personal care. Brands of all sizes—from those under the tight leash of multinational corporations to lean-running clean beauty startups—must work with preservatives experts that offer modern products and deep expertise that makes it possible to navigate between safety, consumer sentiment and regulations.
Take for example, Washington State HB 1047, which Governor Jay Inslee recently signed into law. The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) says the bill wrongly targets critical time-released preservatives that help protect consumers from the harmful effects of microbial contamination and infection.
According to PCPC: “House Bill 1047 ignores science and hurts Washington businesses. This bill eliminates important cosmetics and personal care products preservatives that are not formaldehyde and are considered safe by regulatory authorities worldwide. Formaldehyde-releasing ingredients (e.g., DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea) are used safely as preservatives to kill microorganisms, or to prevent or inhibit their growth in products.”
“Formulators face the challenge of regulatory uncertainty,” noted Dr. Sabrina Behnke, senior global business manager – modern preservatives, Tri-K Industries, Denville, NJ.
Behnke also cited the Washington State legislation and its impact on frequently used preservatives that are considered safe by regulatory authorities worldwide.
“This lack of alignment with ingredient restrictions in regions like the European Union creates difficulties for formulators. On a positive note, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022 aims to establish a uniform national framework, benefiting the industry,” she told Happi.
Consumer sentiment remains a challenge, too.
“We still see a lot of requests for preservative-free technologies coming from our customers. Formulators understand the importance of properly preserved finished formulations, but the perception of preservatives in the general public is still somewhat negative. We believe that this notion is coming from the food industry where foods with preservatives are seen as inferior and undesired,” added Behnke.
But after years of pushback from consumers, there is some positive movement, and leading brands are committed to using technology that protects their products and their consumers.
“Thanks to an increased focus by highly regarded brands in the personal care industry, consumers are becoming more knowledgeable when it comes to preservatives,” noted Lisa M. Jones, regional vice president, Southwest, at Coast Southwest, Inc. “The market continues to have strong preferences for products that are preserved non-traditionally, and certainly consumers know ingredients they want to avoid—including parabens and formaldehyde donors.”
However, instead of demanding “preservative-free,” Jones said her company’s customers say the marketplace is recognizing that appropriate preservative systems are necessary to ensure the quality and integrity of personal care products.
Jones continued, “Awareness has increased, especially over the past few years. It has been a good opportunity for us to collaborate with our customers to demonstrate how important preservatives—when used appropriately and responsibly—are to the health and safety of consumers.”
Finding Solutions
“Consumers are still looking for preservative-free, but there is also the view if a formulation says ‘preservative-free’ then how is it stable on the shelf without. Consumers are now learning that products can say preservative-free but the formulation can be protected against biodegradation from microorganisms. This is why, [we] have a new line of ‘multifunctional protectants’ called HydroGuard,” noted Patrick Lutz, president, Lincoln Mfg-USA, a Barentz company.The HydroGuard series offers “sustainable, multifunctional alternatives to preservatives with value add to end formulations, such as antioxidant, humectant and/or emollient just to name a few,” Lutz added.
Additional solutions from Lincoln Mfg include Essynce ST, a USDA certified organic, all-natural alternative to preservatives. It is a multifunctional stabilizer that enhances formulation stability.
Formulators can also source Lincoln Mfg’s Linatural Ultra-3 and Linatural MBS-Clear. Linatural Ultra-3 is a multifunctional antimicrobial system based on all-natural ingredients that is designed to have multifunctional performance, such as emolliency and moisturization, for personal care formulations. In addition to the functionality, Linatural Ultra-3 protects the formulations from micro contamination. Linatural MBS-Clear is a naturally derived multifunctional microbial blocking system that works as a strong alternative to traditional preservation. Water-soluble with conditioning properties, Linatural MBS-Clear is a mild component well-suited to gentler formulations.
According to Behnke, Tri-K is witnessing a rise in sales of multifunctionals/boosters, which are not registered preservatives as per the European Cosmetics Regulation.
“These multifunctionals have the ability to help protect formulations effectively. Formulators now have access to advanced technologies that offer multiple benefits and address the negative perception of traditional preservatives,” she said.
Tri-K’s latest preservative innovation is Galguard Lipo G lipidated glycines.
“Extensive studies have shown that Galguard Lipo G works exceptionally well as a multifunctional ingredient, allowing formulators to reduce the dosage of traditional preservatives while providing additional sought-after benefits such as sebum regulation, control of acne- and dandruff-causing organisms, and pH regulation,” Behnke noted.
“The benefits of our new preservative technologies are twofold,” she added. “First, they enable formulators to decrease preservative dosage while maintaining efficacy, which is cost-effective and aligns with consumer demand for reduced preservatives. Second, these technologies offer additional advantages such as sebum regulation, control of acne- and dandruff-causing organisms, and pH regulation, enhancing the overall performance and appeal of the formulations.”
Tri-K also offers formulators two complete preservative blends: Galguard Tetra and Galguard Trident S.
Galguard Tetra (INCI: Capryloyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl, Glycine, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid) combines lipidated glycines with phenoxyethanol and an organic acid, providing superior anti-fungal efficacy. Galguard Trident S (INCI: Capryloyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl, Glycine, Benzoic Acid) is a phenoxyethanol-free blend that maintains uncompromised efficacy. Both blends offer easy incorporation and are recommended for use at a level of 1% in formulations, according to the company.
Clean beauty continues to trend in the category, and preservation experts are developing more options.
Jeecide CAP-7 (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glyceryl Laurate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate), for example, is a multifunctional cosmetic antimicrobial system designed to meet the clean beauty criteria of most manufacturers, according to Vantage. This clear liquid is easy to formulate with, and is free of phenoxyethanol, parabens, MITs and formaldehyde releasers. It can be used in combination with traditional cosmetic preservatives to boost their efficacy or alone to prevent microbial growth in preservative-free formulations. Jeecide CAP-7 has excellent antimicrobial properties against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold, too.
According to Vantage’s Sebastien Massard, formulators looking for complete peace-of-mind and broad-spectrum efficacy can turn to Jeecide CAP-5 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Water (and) Hexylene Glycol). This synergistic, easy-to-use clear liquid preservative is free of parabens and formaldehyde donors. Jeecide CAP-5 is effective against bacteria, yeast and mold, and is compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers, and is toxicologically safe for use.
Further, Vantage has also developed several concepts to help formulators find alternatives to traditional preservatives systems or reduce the need for them, including in waterless products.
Waterless products have the advantage of requiring less or no preservative systems, said Massard, who pointed to Vantage’s Concentrated Conditioner Drops—a finalist in the 2023 CEW Beauty Creators Award—as an example. The waterless pills were formulated with Jeesperse NOLO N1, a new self-emulsifying wax, allowing formulators to develop innovative at-home hair care concepts for all hair types, Massard told Happi.
Leading providers like Coast Southwest work closely with customers to find new solutions.
“At Coast Southwest, we regularly work with our suppliers to identify innovative systems to preserve personal care products non-traditionally,” said Jones. “For example, there are fragrance ingredients with INCI names that are not recognized as preservatives, yet boost preservative performance. It will be interesting and exciting over the next few years to explore the antimicrobial properties of preservative blends, using traditional preservatives and ‘non-preservative’ food-grade materials, such as maltol.”
Coast Southwest—which is set to open its new 105,660-square-foot corporate HQ in Irving, TX—works extensively with Sharon Personal Care to create innovative preservative systems and blends.
“When it comes to preservatives, they and we follow the mantra of ‘less is more,’” said Jones, who pointed to products like Sharon’s Amplify technology.
“Amplify ups the efficacy of preservative systems. With Amplify ingredients, brands can ensure the quality and integrity of their products by using preservatives adequately, but not in excess,” noted Jones.
Jones also called attention to products like Sharon’s new SharoSense Plus 785, a Cosmos-approved and eco-friendly broad-spectrum preservative system that meets standards for brands that are “clean beauty enthusiasts.”
According to Jones, Coast Southwest was an early adopter of this technology, and customers have found benefits.
“This technology uses natural maltol, a food material which people have been consuming for many years. Our emphasis with the SharoSense and other innovative technologies is to help our customers understand how these preservative systems work differently from other blends so they not only can capture the benefits of more efficient and sustainable preservative systems, but so they can explain how they use preservatives to their customers as ingredient transparency becomes even more of a focus with consumers than it already is.”
Artificial Intelligence (AI) is top-of-mind these days. With that in mind, the Happi staff asked ChatGPT to tell us why preservatives are important in cosmetics. Here’s what the AI tool told us: “Preservatives are important in cosmetics for several reasons: Microbial growth prevention: Cosmetics, especially those containing water or water-based ingredients, provide an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms. Preservatives help inhibit the growth of these harmful organisms, extending the shelf life of the product and reducing the risk of contamination. Product safety: Preservatives play a crucial role in ensuring the safety of cosmetic products. Microbial contamination can lead to various health risks, including skin infections, allergic reactions and other adverse effects. By incorporating preservatives, manufacturers can maintain the integrity and safety of their products throughout their intended shelf life. Consumer protection: Preservatives help protect consumers from using expired or contaminated cosmetics. These products often come into contact with the skin, eyes and mucous membranes, making them susceptible to microbial contamination. Preservatives help maintain the quality and safety of cosmetics, reducing the likelihood of adverse reactions or infections when used as directed. Product stability: Many cosmetic formulations contain ingredients that are susceptible to degradation, such as oils, botanical extracts and natural ingredients. Preservatives help prevent the breakdown of these components and maintain the product’s stability, texture, color and fragrance over time. This ensures that the cosmetic product performs as intended and provides consistent results throughout its shelf life. Regulatory compliance: Cosmetics are subject to regulations and guidelines set by regulatory authorities, such as the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) or the European Union’s Cosmetic Regulation. These regulations often require cosmetic products to undergo stability testing and demonstrate adequate preservation to ensure consumer safety. Including preservatives in the formulation helps manufacturers comply with these regulations and bring safe products to the market. And, ChatGPT included the following statement: “While preservatives are essential for product safety, it is important to note that some preservatives have been associated with skin sensitivity or allergies in certain individuals. Manufacturers strive to select preservatives that are effective, widely accepted, and have a low potential for causing adverse reactions. Furthermore, the cosmetic industry continues to research and develop alternative preservative systems that are effective and safe, aiming to address consumer concerns while maintaining product integrity.” So…. Industry, what say you? Did ChatGPT get it right? |