By Philip Pelusi
Internationally recognized stylist and product artist
The “texture management” issue of helping clients manage unruly wavy and curly hair types is nothing new but I our concept of Philip Pelusi Texture Management is.These types of hair textures are everywhere in the human population (including on my own head of hair), are not exclusive to any ethnicity, and have troublesome symptoms that are common to all, such as frizzies, lack of , no control, tangles or dryness.All of which can cause the client who has them difficulty styling and keeping their style the way they want it to look.
Our goal as salon owners, stylists, and additionally mine as a product creator, is to make sure clients are happy with their hair design when they leave the salon and most importantly to make sure they can recreate the look at home.For me the big first step in approaching this was many year ago when I created my Volumetric organic cutting system, that takes growth patterns, fall lines and texture into consideration when creating the hair cut.Texture has always been a strong influence in every aspect of how I approached hair.Cutting was one component, creating hair care products another but I still pursued ways to alter texture to help improve and reach that ultimate hair design for the client.I see hair as the fabric in which stylists create the most important design a client will wear every day.So the fabric texture and cut have to go hand in hand.
The traditional way of dealing with or “solving” the problems of unruly, wavy or overly curly textures was to straighten them.This is definitely an outdated way of controlling texture for two reasons.First, hair style trends have definitely changed.Over the last several years, style trends have lent themselves to embracing wavy and curly textures as a way to look modern and hip.That poker-straight hair look is not the strongest trend, natural textures are.It is now viewed by the stylish public as not only fashion forward but as a mind-set change to embracing oneself by being at peace, so to speak, with what one was born with.But how does one improve their natural texture and yet still keep its origin of wave or curl again with the goal of ensuring clients are happy with their hair?We will explore this aspect later.
The second reason the straightening mind-set has changed, is that the viewpoint on chemicals and their potential effects to the body and the hair has changed.Even up until the very recent past, most clients saw chemicals that change their texture as a means to their end which was straight hair.No matter the consequences, such as odor and the damaging effects on hair and scalp, they soldiered on in pursuit of an easy texture to manage.I saw this as a big gap in the marketplace in both meeting client demands; embracing yet improving one’s natural texture and in creating a safer environment in terms of chemicals for both the client and the stylist.I also wanted to give clients and stylists a wider range of choices instead of the only two that seemed to be out there, to deal with your texture as it is with the sometimes limited and temporary effects of styling products or get your hair straightened.
So I created the philosophy of “texture management” and developed a range of products that support these “texture alternatives” for both clients and stylists.Thus, Philip Pelusi Texture Management was born.First, I wanted to prioritize the need for a chemically safe environment in light of all of the damage caused by formaldehyde based straighteners or smoothers.As a product artist, I have never used formaldehyde, even as a preservative.It has never been part of our narrative so naturally it would never be part of our Philip Pelusi Texture Management™ system of in-salon services and products.The evidence is staggering on the damaging effects of this toxic ingredient, even after the hair has been shampooed, with even more damaging effects following every time the hair is heat styled.
The reaction of water and formaldehyde, an anhydrous gas, may be described in the following equation:
H2C=O+ H2O= CH2(OH)2
Formaldehyde + Water = Methylene Glycol
But this is not the complete description as the property known as chemical equilibrium enters this discussion.Equilibrium is the state at which a chemical, in this case Methylene Glycol exists in combination with the reactants, Formaldehyde and Water.While under normal conditions the equilibrium is heavily forced toward the creation of Methylene Glycol as described above, a quantity dissociates back toward the “release” of water and Formaldehyde.This is the focus of the problem with smoothers based on Methylene Glycol, as the heat associated with Brazilian Method straighteners can cause the release of Formaldehyde.
Adding to this problem, because an excess of Methylene Glycol is necessary to insure the straightening of the hair, there will always be residues left in the hair, and this residualMethylene Glycol, will continue dissociate into Formaldehyde, and react with the Hair’s Keratin structure for the next heated straightening treatment…and again…and again.
While this issue has been and will be debated for some time to come, there can be no doubt that this chemistry is just plain dangerous, whether the exposure is to Formaldehyde or to Methylene Glycol.
I wanted to instead offer both non-chemical-based hair smoothing options that help smooth waves or curls or enhance waves or curls to help the client and stylist manage their texture.In addition, I also wanted to create a more responsible chemical smoother that allow the stylist the control to alter the formula to leave as much or as little wave or curl behind depending on what the client was looking for.So I created new categories of products that are used as services in the salon.Two of these products work with the heat of a flat iron or curling iron, smooth or flatten the physical keratin bonds in the hair.The client is left with less frizzy, smoother, more controlled texture with much easier styling.The other nice feature about these options is that is meets the needs of the wavy or curly clientele that want to wear their waves or curls they just want the condition, definition and frizz improved.
These heat-activated products are not permanent solutions for texture in that they do not open the cuticle and their effect so not permanently last in the hair.They were not intended to.Instead they operate much like a demi-permanent hair color and last about 4 to 6 weeks.Since there is no lifting of the cuticle with these products they are be done immediately following their color service.The ease of the timing and actual application makes these services a breeze to execute in the salon.I designed these products to be No Formaldehyde, No Aldehyde, No Formaldehyde Derivatives, No harsh chemicals, No irritating fumes or odors, Non toxic, No harmful fumes, No unpleasant odors, Sulfate Free, Paraben Free, Allergen Free Fragrance formulas.Unlike all Brazilian treatments, perms, caustic relaxers, these service products don’t alter the hair’s chemistry and actually leaves it stronger rather than weakening its internal structure.They are gentle to the skin and safe for the stylist and clients.
The biggest benefit is not only that clients can embrace their texture but that they are not damaging their hair fabric and even more-so improving it with the ultra conditioning ingredients in these products.The formulas contain 85% Certified Organic treatment ingredients Organic Reishi Mushroom, Sprouted Soy, Red Sage and Burdock help to improve keratinization helping maintain strong hair fibers and help protect against damage and color fadage.Organic Aloe and Lavender help smooth and sooth scalp and hair while binding protective weightless moisture.Additional organic treatment ingredients include hair strengtheners, smoothers and hydrators Organic Bilberry, Sugar Cane and Sugar Maple.
Curl enhancement is achieved for clients who want to improve their curls or waves but keep them with Quinoa.This ancient grain reinvents curly and wavy hair by locking in spring and definition to curly and wavy hair while it naturally strengthens, repairs, provides shine.It is considered a complete protein, meaning it contains all 8 essential amino acids binding moisture, providing nourishment and protecting hair from environmental exposure leaving hair smoother and silkier.Quinoa does not alter the hair’s chemistry and actually dramatically improves the condition of hair fabric leaving it stronger rather than weakening its internal structure.It is not a curl creator but a curl enhancer, de-frizzer, definer and curl rejuvenating treatment ingredient in one.It further penetrates under the influence of the steam that is generated during curling iron hot styling and uses the active steam to create sculpted curl definition while de-frizzing and conditioning.
Also in these formulas are high-tech, proprietary micro-emulsion ingredients such as our Philip Pelusi Hydro-Charged Ceramide Complex.This potent strengthening and moisture-binding plant ceramide complex helps repair damaged sites in hair fabric with is lipid hydration system to dramatically restore hair to its healthier state, leaving hair feeling renewed, stronger, silky, shiny and lustrous.This proprietary ceramide complex penetrates deeply into hair's inner structure to strengthen and reconstitute with essential moisturizing factors.Replacing these lipids makes hair appear shiny and lowers porosity for better protection against heat and chemical damage.
Also our Philip Pelusi Phyto-Keratin Micro-emulsion of natural moisture-based plant derived amino acids and natural fruit acids that penetrate and further penetrate under the influence of the steam that is generated during hot ironing and is the first smoothing treatment to use active steam to deliver significant smoothing while conditioning.This reinforces the keratin's rearranged bonds that are pulled into a more-straight configuration during hot ironing and while doing so deeply conditions with the Phyto-Keratin Micro-emulsions in the formula.The bonds that are rearranged are not hair’s stronger disulfide bonds making the formula super gentle and conditioning to the hair.
But for clients that want more-smooth, more-straight curls or waves, we have a revolutionary approach to this as well.This service product is a No Formaldehyde, No Formaldehyde Derivatives, No Aldehyde, No Lye, No irritating fumes or odors, Non toxic, No harmful fumes or unpleasant odors, Sulfate Free, Paraben Free, Allergen Free Fragrance formula leaving the hair smooth, silky and shiny even in hot, humid weather.Hair is more manageable and easier to blow dry and style and leaves as much or as little curl or wave depending on what the client desires.It is a unique hybrid of the most advanced scientific technology with the natural and organic ingredients already stated in this article that imparting better condition, strength, shine, smoothing and color protecting effects for modern hair.This gentle to the hair, in-salon service formula works as an ultra smoothing dynamic-duo while simultaneously rejuvenating the condition of the hair.Its’ easy 2-Phase process pre-softens the hair and deposits lustrous hair smoothing, anti-frizz, hydrating, restorative and strengthening ingredients leaving hair smooth and more straightened while creating shine and manageable texture.Stylists can customize the smoothing effects with a choice of two additives and managing the application and timing.This product just takes the smoothing process to the next level.
The process has been complex in creating these products but the most important and satisfying validation of all of these products is results and the tremendous positive feedback from clients.I don’t think we realize just how much we can positively impact someone’s life just by positively impacting their hair.I am just happy to help be a catalyst in this process.
For product recommendation and more information contact us at Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi at either firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com.
About the Author
Philip Pelusi is an internationally recognized stylist, photographer and product artist. Having gone from one salon to 13 locations as well as a magnificent industry centerpiece in New York City, Pelusi has created a philosophy, two product lines, P2 by Philip Pelusi and Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi and systems for success. Philip created and trademarked, within the industry, the phrase “A Cut Above The Rest” to coincide with his creation of the registered Volumetric haircutting technique around which he built his empire.
More info: www.philippelusi.com