Modern Jewels

August 3, 2009

Fall’s color cosmetics are worth their weight in gold.

The look for Fall 2009, as seen at Estée Lauder.

Modern Jewels

Fall’s color cosmetics are worth their weight in gold.

Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor

A luxurious black fringe of eyelashes. Silver or copper shimmer for eyes. Rosy lips with longwearing capabilities. Perfectly primed foundation.

Color cosmetics for Fall 2009 are cohesively opulent, woven together by bold metallics and rich jewel tones, as seen in the market’s hottest releases for the season. And while the economy is still in a state of flux, marketers are hoping the famed Lipstick Effect will rub off on the industry, no pun intended. Therefore, cosmetic tastemakers have tirelessly worked to provide an impressive array of sophisticated hues for the eyes, lips and face for autumn—chock-full of luxurious ingredients such as champagne or pearls, dressed to the nines in novel packaging, of course.

Total sales of the cosmetics category (face/lip/eye) rose 4% to $2.65 billion for the year ended May 17, 2009 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass-market retailers excluding Wal-Mart, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), a Chicago-based market research firm.

According to IRI, foundations, powders and concealers are still staple makeup purchases, as facial cosmetics stayed at $1.03 billion. Meanwhile, the eyes have it but the lips don’t, as eye makeup climbed 7.7% to $1.07 billion and lip products fell 7.9% to $561.4 million. Nail polish sales climbed 13% to $248.4 million.

“Last year at this time, as the economy began taking a major change, IRI foresaw the trend of beauty moving into the home [as opposed to the salon],” said John Deputato, senior vice president, client solutions, IRI, Fairfield, NJ.“A great example of this is the growth of nail enamel as an affordable luxury.”

Makeup products priced at the premium level ($50 and above) have also seen some growth in the first quarter despite the economy, according to a July 2009 report from The NPD Group, Inc., a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm. Sales of premium-priced face makeup, which represented 6% of total facial cosmetic sales in the first quarter of 2009, have nearly doubled since 2006, from $14.1 million to $27.1 million. Premium-priced eye products (priced over $35) were especially strong.

“The growth in premium makeup, while a smaller segment compared to premium skin care, is driven by the fact that these products are still perceived as more niche and unique to the prestige arena,” said Karen Grant, senior global industry analyst and vice president of beauty, NPD. “The trends in premium price beauty show women are becoming increasingly selective in where they choose to invest limited resources.”

A Clear Vision

For the eyes, mascara continues to be a center of innovation and growth, according to Mr. Deputato of IRI.

Rimmel’s GlamEyes mascara features a lightweight mousse formula that plumps up eyelashes while
providing a smooth texture.
“If you sent a woman to a desert island with the choice of one beauty product, it would be mascara,” he said.

Maybelline New York recently debuted its Pulse Perfection by Define-A-Lash Vibrating Mascara—a first-to-mass vibrating SKU that delivers 7000 vibrations per minute in seven synchronized actions, according to the company. The battery-powered mascara offers a patent-pending vibrating elastomer brush with an exclusive formula that features thickening agents, emollient waxes and film formers.

Volume and definition are achievable with one brush from Revlon’s new DoubleTwist Mascara. The company is touting what it calls a first-to-mass technology with a revolutionary 2-in-1 brush that has traditional bristles to thicken lashes and innovative combs to define. The mascara is available in non-waterproof and waterproof formulas as well as a new signature Revlon shade, blackened ruby.A volume boosting formula with intense pigments provides plump, luscious volume and rich color, according to Revlon, while spherical polymers or “swelling spheres” roll onto lashes to create volume and a smoother texture.

Coty’s Rimmel is also rolling out two new mascara formulations for Fall 2009. GlamEyes Lash Flirt Mascara features a lightweight mousse formula that voluminously wraps lashes with kohl-black pigments for major impact, according to the company. Featuring elasto-bristles, its custom VolumFlex brush includes two shorter sides for lash loading and two longer sides for perfect separation and lift.

The oxygen-permeable formula also lets lashes breathe. The brand’s Sexy Curves Waterproof Mascara plumps up lashes with an easy-to-remove formula that stays put, thanks in part to an hourglass-shaped Triple Plump Brush that dramatically curls and de-clumps lashes. Plus, the formulation features Rimmel’s Aquatrap System, a wash-off resistant emulsion enriched with linseed oil to promote lash health.

Bare Escentuals has bulked up its Buxom collection with its new Buxom Lashliner, a multi-functional lash thickening and conditioning treatment that doubles as a gel eyeliner. The formulation features a mineral-rich, paraben-free gel packed with natural ingredients such as vitamins A, C and E, honeysuckle, jojoba oil, soy protein, tourmaline and biotin, which stimulates growth as it strengthens new and existing lashes. The product is available in black and brown.

Besides basic blacks and browns, a pop of shimmer by way of metallic accents is big for Fall 2009.

“The smoky eye returns for Fall 2009 but with a new twist. This season brings provocative, steely shades of chrome, charcoal and gun metal,” said Joli Baker, president, Pür Minerals, Atlanta, GA, whose seasonal releases reflect this trend.“Pairing silvery-gray shadows with barely-there powder and soft, muted lips bring a sense of elegance and balance for a chic, fresh-faced look.”

“Shades of teal dominated the runway this season. We saw numerous designers call on inspiration from tribal prints and patterns,” added Jillian Dempsey, Avon Products, Inc., global creative color director.

Avon played with this jungle-inspired trend and created a Fall 2009 color collection that features primal tones of teal, gray and plum called Tribal Teals. According to Ms. Dempsey, the collection focuses on smoky eyes as its cornerstone and features peepers shadowed in cargo green, gray and teal and lavishly lined with bronze or charcoal hues.

Avon’s new ‘Tribal Teals’ eyeshadow.
Also new and noteworthy from Avon is its Smooth Minerals Makeup Collection, which has been reformulated for Fall 2009 with a naturally derived blend of minerals, essential nutrients and vitamins. The latest addition to the range is an eyeliner comprised of mineral colorants including zinc, calcium, copper, tourmaline and malachite.

Sector rival Mary Kay is also bulking up its optical offerings with a limited edition Loose Eye Color launching in September. The SKU will be available in three shades—Lilac Lace, Pink Organza and Cashmere. According to the company, the powder formula has a subtle sheen and glides on easily. The applicator wand has a shortened, rounded sponge tip so just the right amount of color is applied. A sparkling crystal accents the packaging.

Pearl is a hot new ingredient, according to Stila, which is releasing two new pearl-infused cream shadow/liners for Fall 2009. The Kitten Smudge Pot uses Stila’s proprietary combination of pearls to create a shimmering champagne multi-use eye product. It can be worn as an eyeshadow primer, a shadow, liner or even a brow bone highlighter. The Stila Black Cat Smudge Pot is a basic black eye product infused with an unexpected blend of shimmer.

Chanel is also rolling out an eye shimmer product, an exclusive to its makeup line. The Luminous Cream Quadra Eye Shadow is a quartet of gel-cream shades—pearl, gold, black and red black—that are said to deliver a luminous sheen that wears from sheer to intense, according to the company.

Sealed with a Kiss

A leader in the lip category, Revlon has bulked up its successful ColorStay range with its new ColorStay Ultimate Liquid Lipstick. It features the brand’s exclusive ColorStay technology with food-proof wear for up to 12 hours, along with a moisturizing feel that makes it more glossy in finish.

“My clients often require a long-wearing lipstick because of their busy schedules but many were hesitant that long-wear products could be drying,” said Gucci Westman, global artistic director for Revlon, New York, NY. “Revlon’s ColorStay Ultimate Liquid Lipstick provides comfort with a beautiful long-lasting color that lasts all day and comes with conditioning topcoat built right in, all in one step.”

Estée Lauder has also added to its longwear collection with the new Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lipstick and Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil for Fall 2009. According to the company, both lip products deliver instant rich, stay-true color and shine to lips for a luscious look, day to night. Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lipstick’s patent-pending longwearing formula incorporates polymeric technology to provide continuous fade resistant, stay-in-place color. Longwearing flexible film-formers provide extended wear on the lips that won’t transfer or fade, as well as a layer of hydration. The lipstick’s unique polymer system also provides lips with a satin finish for stay-true color, according to the company.

New Double Wear lip pencils from Estée Lauder boast both moisture and color in a longwear formulation.
Another top trend, nutraceutical beauty, is making its way into the lipstick category by way of antioxidant-infused extracts. For example, one of Clinique’s biggest launches for Fall 2009 is its Vitamin C Lip Smoothie Antioxidant Lip Color. According to the company, a highly active form of vitamin C helps improve the look and feel of lips, while other key antioxidants, such as pomegranate and acai berry, protect against environmental aggressors and defend against future damage.

For those who want a more celebratory sort of ingredient, try a bit of bubbly! Too Faced took pure champagne essences and fused them with moisturizing shea butter for its Lips of Luxury lipstick collection. According to the company, the exclusive, velvet-soft formula works to smooth out fine lines and creases with hydrating and firming properties as lips are saturated in pure pigments that offer serious staying powder. The product is topped off with “20-carat” diamond accents on the cap.

Lipstick Queen creator Poppy King of New York, NY channeled the 1960s this season with her new Fifteen Minutes of Fame Pop Art Gloss for Fall 2009. According to Ms. King, the shimmer-free formulations provide a smooth finish with emollients, esters, film formers, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid and marine filling spheres, as well as a pop of color.

“The trend this season is toward a new minimalism by focusing strongly on one feature or the other,” she told Happi. “That is either bold color on the lips or bold makeup around the eyes but never the two together. This is a very modern way to wear color.”

MAC’s new Dazzleglass Creme range features “flashy flecks of lustrous glimmer that give lips a new kind of high-beam shine, while the balm-effect of the pillow-top comfort crème keeps the supple going and going,” according to the company. An aloe and vitamin-enriched formulation makes lips lightweight but dazzling.

“For color products like lipstick, we are able to use high pigment loads that are rich in moisturizers so you get the best of both worlds,” said Christopher Del Castillo, MAC senior artist.

Face Forward

Facial cosmetics for 2009 will be about the healthy, “no make up” look, according to Shawn Haynes, senior vice president of sales, global brand development, Markwins Beauty Products, City of Industry, CA, who added that mineral powder foundations as well as shade-adjusting liquid foundations will lead as they provide a matte, natural looking finish.

Natural wear facial powder from Wet N Wildbrings an upscale mineral finish to mass.
Mr. Haynes points to Wet N Wild’s new Intuitive Blend Shade Adjusting Foundation as an example of what’s on trend. The product features a weightless formulation that self-adjusts to match individual skin tones. It starts out white and adjusts to skin color. The foundation also contains a primer-based formula to create a smooth surface, noted Mr. Haynes.

The brand is also introducing a “purse-friendly” mineral base, the Wet N Wild Natural Wear Mineral Foundation and Veil. According to Mr. Haynes, “it’s the same great mineral foundation [consumers have] come to know and love in a smaller, easy-to-carry package. This mineral-based formula helps even skin tone and brightens the complexion, giving skin the appearance of a liquid foundation with an airbrush finish. The lightweight packaging is perfectly portable and includes a new brush applicator.”

Minerals brand Mirabella is also smoothing out facial surfaces for Fall 2009 with its new Beauty Skin Tint, which is launching next month. According to Darlene Zembrod, national trainer, Mirabella Beauty, Santa Clarita, CA, the product helps create an even hue during the transition from the end of summer into fall. The light cream-to-powder formula smoothes on gently over skin with a makeup sponge and creates a powder-like finish coupled with a luminescent glow, she said.

“Fall’s face palette features sheer translucent hints of color that emphasize cheeks, as light reflects off the crests of the cheekbones,” added Ms. Zembrod, noting that the trend is captured to perfection with another Mirabella product, Semi Precious Marble Baked Blush. “It complements all skin tones beautifully, because of its translucent quality and leaves the door open for eyes or lips to take center stage,” she said.

Similar in concept, the new Laura Geller Glow Box combines a rose-hued baked powder with a limited edition highlighter to add a subtle, healthy glow to skin. Titanium dioxide adds brightness and opacity, while camellia sinensis leaf (white tea) and centella asiatica leaf extracts offer antioxidant benefits.

A Colorful Start

A pretty face wouldn’t be complete without a pretty base. This season, Urban Decay is building on its successful eyelid primer products with its new facial base range. Brightening and Pore Perfecting Complexion Primers offer two distinctly different finishes to prime the skin before using foundation, according to the company. The products feature Matrixyl 3000, a poly-peptide celebrated for its ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, as well as hyaluronic flling spheres said to increase hydration while smoothing the skin tone.

Portable palettes are a rising trend for makeup fixes on the move, as seen at Trish McEvoy this season.
Urban Decay is also releasing its new Surreal Skin Cream-to-Powder Foundation, a lightweight formula that transforms from a cream to a micro-fine powder upon contact with skin. Hyaluronic spheres and pearl powders (yes, there’s that jewel again) hydrate and reduce the appearance of fine lines, while antioxidants, like vitamins A and C, nourish skin.

Crème blush is still in demand for those looking for rosy cheeks that last from day to night. Tarte, well-known for its natural wax cheek blushers, is adding Green Siren, a golden apricot hue, to its range. The product features Tarte’s T5 Super Fruit Complex, a proprietary blend of goji, acai, maracuja, acerola and pomegranate; as well as mineral pigments, carnauba wax and safflower seed oil.

Three Custom Color Specialists also is rolling out a set of crème blushes in novel hues this season in a collaboration with makeup artist and author Robert Jones. The Robert Jones Collection includes three glow potions for the cheeks in azalea, mauve and apricot shades.

Some blush products even fight the signs of aging. CoverGirl has teamed up with its fellow Procter & Gamble family member, Oil of Olay, for a new color cosmetic collection. For Fall 2009, the line is rolling out Simply Ageless Sculpting Blush. According to the company, creamy color defines cheekbones and stays suspended over fine lines and wrinkles for flatteringly flawless coverage. The Olay Regenerist Serum inside is infused with vitamins, skin conditioners and antioxidants that help improve skin texture to give an instantly healthy-looking, youthful glow, like that sported by CoverGirl Ellen DeGeneres.

The Multi-Talented Palette

Mixed sets and palettes offer the consumer a bang for her buck, containing a variety of smaller-size lip, face and eye cosmetic products in a portable case.

For Fall 2009, Bobbie Brown is launching a Limited Edition Nude Eye Palette that has something for everyone. According to Ms. Brown, “Nude makeup doesn’t mean monochromatic, barely-there makeup. It means makeup that’s right for your skin.”

The palette features a“universally flattering” selection of nude shadows in three different textures: soft matte, lightly pearlized and metallic high-shimmer. Three eyeshadow duos are also set up in a customizable palette, which can also be filled with any Bobbi Brown eyeshadow or blush shades, if desired.

Cargo targets the other end of the color spectrum with its Runway Kit, a “go-to item for creating the fun and fabulous looks straight from the Fall 2009 catwalks.” Dramatic, smoky or jewel-toned eyes offset by understated cheeks are this season’s biggest trends—all of which can be recreated using the make-up kit, according to the company.

Smashbox also is tapping the dramatic color trend with its new Reign collection, inspired by the rule of the English Tudors. This new luxe collection provides a glimpse into the opulent lives of yesteryear with a contemporary twist.

The line’s baked eyeshadow palette (half shimmer, half matte) is available in Majesty (matte champagne, shimmering champagne, matte fuchsia, shimmering fuchsia, matte black, shimmering black) and Monarch (matte soft gold, shimmering soft gold, matte copper, shimmering copper, matte deep brown, shimmering deep brown).

“For Fall 2009, the main trend is opulence,” said Lori Taylor, lead makeup artist at Smashbox Studios, Los Angeles, CA. “You will see a lot of deep colors both matte and shimmery in the industry.”

For those who want glimmer on the go, Trish McEvoy rolled out the Little Black Card, a pocket-sized, double-decked face palette. “If you’re limited to a compact, you should make the most of it,” said Ms. McEvoy about her creation. The kit features complexion-enhancing colors and a customizable concealer duo housed in a pink quilted case.

A Brighter Forecast

New market forecasts from Chicago, IL-based Mintel predict cosmetic sales in the U.S. will rise as a result of the recession. In fact, the research firm anticipates a higher growth rate for makeup now than it did just eight months ago (10% over the next five years versus 7%). Though the beauty and personal care sector is struggling overall, Mintel sees some very bright spots, including color cosmetics, for the future.

“Innovation in product application will continue along with next generation of natural and sustainable products,” noted Mr. Deputato of IRI.

Ms. Dempsey at Avon predicts that versatile cosmetic SKUs are the next big thing.

“We’ll continue to see multi-tasking products dominate as women want the value and benefits offered by these convenient duos or trios…easy yet sophisticated makeup is a must for 2010,” she said.

Adrienne Kramer, president, Mirabella Beauty, agreed. She said, “A return to basics will be important. Simple colors and products that can be multi-purpose to stretch a dollar will be part of the ‘smart buying’ that consumers will demand from now on. New twists on old products will also become really important.

“Later in the year, it is likely that women will want to break out a bit, and perhaps pump up some color for fun, but they will still be buying ‘smart,’ so we will offer multi-use items—for example, a cheek-and-lip stain-in–one,” she told Happi.

Longwearing cosmetics will also be key for the next year.

“Everyone is being asked to ‘do more with less,’ and shoppers expect the same from their color cosmetics,” said Mr. Haynes of Markwins.

Skin care-infused makeup is also on the rise, noted Ms. Taylor at Smashbox. She said, “One of the trends that we will continue to see is more treatment-oriented products in addition to more lightweight products with maximum coverage that enhances versus masking. Everything will be lighter, fresher and innovative.”

And at the end of the day, maybe the Lipstick Effect does ring true. “Color trends for 2010 will reflect the state of the economy and people’s feelings in reference to the stability of theworld,” said Ms. Baker of Pür Minerals.

“When things are turbulent and uncertain in times of economic hardship, you will see lots of bright colors. We will surround ourselves with things that lift us up and make us feel lighter and happier.”

Color Cosmetics New Ingredients

Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about the materials listed, contact the supplier directly.


Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: (888) 331-6212
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com

Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare

Dermacryl C Polymer

INCI name: Acrylates copolymer
Suggested use levels: 2-5% active
Applications: Color cosmetics (mascara film former)
Comments: A film-forming polymer particularly well suited for use in O/W mascara and eyeliner formulations. It offers a number of consumer-friendly benefits because it forms clear, substantive, flexible films, which can improve resistance to wear, enhance water resistance, build volume and give a soft natural feel. Although substantive, Dermacryl C polymer films are easily removed with warm soapy water or standard makeup removers.

Arch Personal Care Products

South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (908) 561-5200
Email: archpc@archchemicals.com
Website: www.archpersonalcare.com

Chronosphere Opticals/Opticals Brite

INCI name: Silica and polyurethane-40/silica and polyurethane-40 and green 5
Suggested use levels: 1-10%/1-10%
Applications: Anti-aging products; face/body creams, eye creams and makeup
Comments: This patent-pending, light-controlling spherical powder technology enables natural pigments of the skin to build, amplify and modify the appearance of the skin via a clear, colorless microlens. ChronoSphere Opticals Brite, based on the same patent-pending technology, obscures and neutralizes skin imperfections by modifying the color of the skin via clear, colored microlenses. The overall skin effect for both ChronoSphere Opticals and ChronoSphere Opticals Brite is an illusion of smoothness and a minimization of fine lines and wrinkles.


Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com

Lumynel 613

INCI name: Isododecane, methyl trimethicone, bis-hydroxylauryl dimethicone/IPDI copolymer, dimethiconol
Suggested use levels: 3-8%
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: A unique polymer for use in cosmetics and skin care with extended wear characteristics. Lumynel 613 provides strength, substantivity and structure to long wear/non-transfer cosmetic formulations due to its highly branched polymeric structure. Its addition to a cosmetic formulation will result in a tack-free, long-lasting breathable film.

Penstia Powder

INCI name: Adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 3% to desired effect
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: This unique polymer imparts a silky, creamy feel with exceptional slip. Its particles are porous spheres that allow for high oil loading, which is useful for active entrapment, stabilization and sebum absorption. The chemical composition of Penstia Powder gives it dry binding properties and also allows it to be used in both water and oil phases, resulting in improved formula stability and reduced tackiness.

DSP 250

INCI name: Silica
Suggested use levels: Dependent on application
Applications: Cosmetic powders, makeup, skin care
Comments: This silica powder conforms to a very tight particle size range of 2-5 microns. The range yields a product with unique textural attributes, including enhanced slip and spreadable smoothness. DSP 250 will provide a larger aggregate surface area and greater fluid absorption than powders of a larger particle size.

Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA
Tel: (800) 531-0815
Email: caresupportUS@cognis.com
Website: www.cognis.com

Cosmedia Gel CC

INCI name: Dicaprylyl carbonate (and) stearalkonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care, sun care
Comments: Cosmedia Gel CC is an optimized hectorite dispersion that combines the properties of hectorites and our fast spreading emollient, Cetiol CC. It creates a homogeneous film on the skin and limits pigment sedimentation in final formulations. Perfect for color cosmetics!

Cetiol CC

INCI name: Dicaprylyl carbonate
Suggested use levels: 2-15%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care, sun care
Comments: Cetiol CC is a high spreading, light emollient with superior skin compatibility. Because of its excellent emulsification and dispersion properties, it is a widely used in color cosmetics. Best of all, it can be used as a replacement for cyclomethicone in many formulations and leaves the skin feeling dry andvelvety. It is approved by Ecocert.

Cegesoft VP

INCI name: Vegetable oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Color cosmetics (lipsticks/lipcare)
Comments: Cegesoft VP is a waxy emollient that is based on vegetable oils. With a consistency and melting point similar to petrolatum, it is an excellent base for lipcare products. Because it is based on 100% natural feedstocks, it is well suited for green concepts.

Croda Inc.

Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.crodausa.com

Cromollient ESP

INCI name: Tris (PPG-3 benzyl) citrate
Suggested use levels: 2-20%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, facial makeup and sprayable sunscreens
Comments: Patented citrate ester that works synergistically with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption in the UVA spectra.

Dow Corning Corporation

Midland, MI
Tel: (989) 496-6000
Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com

Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax

INCI name: C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane
Suggested use levels: Recommended levels are dependent on the application but can be as low as 2% for structuring an emulsion and as high as 20% for a lipstick.
Applications: This semi-occlusive, high melt point (66°C/151°F) silicone resin wax acts as a structuring agent for sticks, especially lipsticks. It also serves as a rheology and texture modifier for oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions and also anhydrous gels.
Comments: In addition to its structuring and textural properties, the wax increases the nontransfer property of lipsticks, while improving coverage, color uniformity and color intensity. It has broad compatibility with organic and silicone materials as well as fragrances.

Dow Corning EL-8050 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend

INCI name: Isododecane (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Highly variable because of the material’s versatility; from approximately 5% in prototype water-in-silicone formulations, to approximately 70% in some anhydrous formulations.
Applications: Imparts luxurious, silky feel. Useful in a wide range of color cosmetics; improves transfer resistance. Delivery aid for lipophilic actives, including vitamins and sunscreens. Provides thickening in alcohol-based systems.
Comments: Delivered in a volatile organic carrier fluid, which aids quick absorption. This silicone organic elastomer blend is more compatible with organics than traditional silicone elastomer gels, without compromising silicone feel or formulation clarity. Designed for cold processing.

Dow Corning EL 8051 IN Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend

INCI name: Isodecyl neopentanoate (and) dimethicone/bis isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Highly variable because of the material’s versatility; from approximately 5% in prototype water-in-silicone formulations, to approximately 70% in some anhydrous formulations.
Applications: Useful in a wide range of color cosmetics, where it imparts a luxurious, silky feel. Delivery aid for lipophilic actives, including vitamins and sunscreens. Provides thickening in alcohol-based systems.
Comments: Delivered in a nonvolatile organic carrier fluid, this silicone organic elastomer blend is more compatible with organics than traditional silicone elastomer gels, without compromising the feel of the silicone or formulation clarity. Designed for cold processing.

EMD Chemicals/Rona

Gibbstown, NJ
Tel: (800) 222-0342
Email: info@emdchemicals.com
Website: www.emdchemicals.com

Colorona Precious Fine Gold/Xirona Volcanic Sparks

INCI name: Mica (and) iron oxides (and) titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) tin oxide/Calcium aluminum borosilicate (and) titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) tin oxide
Suggested use levels: There is no use limit. Generally, they can be used in cosmetics up to 30%.
Applications: Color cosmetics and personal care products
Comments: Colorona Precious Finehas outstanding coverage, high metallic luster, elegant look and feel; Xirona Volcanic Sparks has high transparency and color styling flexibility, unique color travel effect from red to copper to gold.

Evonik Goldschmidt

Hopewell, VA
Tel: (804) 452-5623
Email: carla.huffman@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care

Isolan GPS

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate
Suggested use levels: 2-3%
Applications: Color cosmetics, W/O makeup.
Comments: Isolan GPS is a PEG-free, cold-processable emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials that provides excellent emulsion stabilization properties even at low concentrations (2-3%). It is used in low-viscosity W/O lotions featuring a very light skin feel. It provides good cost performance, allowing the formulation of W/O lotions with a very low oil-phase content, resulting in a non-oily skin feel.


Morrisville, PA
Tel: (215) 547-1015
Email: ddick@gelest.com
Website: www.gelest.com

TM 081

INCI name: Caprylyl methicone
Suggested use levels: 2-20%
Applications: Foundation, lipcolor and eyeshadow
Comments: TM 081 combines a light, dry feel and the excellent slip of silicone with excellent organic compatibility. Due to good pigment wetting properties, TM 081 is recommended for use in longwearing foundations, lipsticks and eyeshadows.

SS Treated Pigments

INCI name: Stearyl triethoxysilane
Suggested use levels: 1-50%
Applications: Foundation, lipcolor, eyeshadow, sunscreen
Comments: SS surface modification combines the lubricious feel of oleaginous treatments with the physical and chemical stability of reacted coatings. SS treatment imparts a hydrophobic coating that improves wetting in oils and silicones, increases compressibility in powder formulations and improves skin adhesion.

SD Treated Pigments and Fillers

INCI name: Polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate
Suggested use levels: 1-50%
Applications: Eyeshadow, mascara and eyeliner
Comments: SD pigments and fillers are coated with a hydroxyl terminated silsesquioxane network that improves adhesion to skin and hair. Because SD pigments are hydrophobic yet not overly sensitive to oils, including sebum, they are particularly suited to eye makeup formulation. In powder formulations, SD treatment markedly improves compression without causing glazing.

Grant Industries

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: (201) 791-8700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com

Granactive Powder AR-1423

INCI name: Mica (and) water (and) silica (and) honey extract (and) tetrapeptide-14 (and) phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) potassium sorbate (and) hexylene glycol Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Color cosmetics, daily wear, pressed powders, skin tone eveners, concealers and brighteners
Comments: This unique powder delivery matrix combines a redness diminishing peptide with the soothing quality of honey. It contains tetrapeptide-14, a specific peptide sequence that can be used in cosmetic treatments to alleviate the redness associated with rosacea or mild sun exposure. It acts by down regulating interleukin-6 (IL-6) to prevent inflammation, which in turn reduces MMP-1 damage with the net effect of a bright and even skin appearance.

Granpowder Lumière

INCI name: Proposed polymethylsilsesquioxane/benzimidazole/diamond copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin brighteners, concealers, color cosmetics, daily wear, pressed powders
Comments: Granpowder Lumière powders are micron-sized polymethylsilsesquioxane spherical powders with an entrapped photoluminescent diamond composite core. With age, skin dramatically loses its ability to fluoresce blue and green light, which leads to a prematurely aged and unhealthy skin appearance. Granpowder Lumière compensates for this deficiency by emitting and scattering both blue and green, emulating the emission pattern of healthy skin.

Granpowder USQ

INCI name: Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 10-50%
Applications: Foundations, color cosmetics, eye creams, facial lotion
Comments: Granpowder USQ is a unique blend of two spherical powders of polyurethane and polymethylsilsesquioxane with an optimized “soft focus” effect and a soft, creamy feel. The particle size is characterized by a bimodal distribution with the first mean value at five microns and the second at 17 microns. While small particles provide more uniform coverage of skin imperfection with ideal “soft focus” property, the larger particles offer an enhanced soft feel. Granpowder USQ is a free flowing powder and can be self-dispersed in oils and waxes, resulting in a smooth and luster texture. It is an ideal ingredient for cosmetic products featuring skin corrections and cream-to-powder feel on the skin.

Interpolymer Corporation

Canton, MA
Tel: (781) 828-7120, (800) 262-1281
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Website: www.interpolymer.com

Syntran PC 5775

INCI name: Pending
Suggested use levels: 5-20%
Applications: Mascaras, eyeliners and color cosmetics
Comments: The newest member of the Bimodal Technology Platform. Syntran PC 5775 was exclusively designed for water resistant mascara, eyeliner and color cosmetic formulations. Its film forming properties provide quick-set, superior water resistance, adhesion and flexibility.Interpolymer’s innovative bimodal technology employs an interpenetrating network of cationic and anionic polymer chains. Specifically engineered to deliver a quick-setting film, Syntran PC 5775 also exhibits an enhanced hydrophobic character for longer wear formulations.

Jeen International Corporation

Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com

Jeelux PS VHLV

INCI name: Isododecane, bisvinyl dimethicone dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-85%
Applications: Lip, foundations, treatment, mascara, eyeshadows
Comments: Non crosslinked system


INCI name: Dimethicone, isopropyl isostearate, bisvinyl dimethicone, dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-75%
Applications: Foundation, lip, skin, eyeshadows
Comments: Silicone ester


INCI name: Isododecane, isopropyl isostearate, bisvinyl dimethicone, dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-75%
Applications: Makeup, lip, foundation, eyeshadows
Comments: Excellent slip, dry feel


Herstal, Belgium
Tel: (+32) 4-259-85-00
Email: info@kitozyme.com
Website: www.kitozyme.com


INCI name: Chitin, beta-glucan
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Lip care, foundations
Comments: KiOsmetine-CG30 is a novel vegetal copolymer combining the benefits of two molecules: chitin and beta-glucan. It is film forming and proven by three clinical studies and in-vitro tests for increasing pro-collagen production, restoring elasticity and firmness, protecting from pollution, improving skin barrier and decreasing squama and dryness.

LCW-Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

Saint Ouen L’Aumône, France
Tel: (+33) 1-34-48-57-00
Email: lcw@lcw.fr
Website: www.lcw.fr

Unipure Triple Black LC 990

INCI name: CI 77499
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Makeup, skin care products
Comments: A purer, deeper, stronger E172 black iron oxide offering superior chemical purity and color.

Unipure White LC 987

INCI name: CI 77891
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Makeup, skin care and sun care products
Comments: A E171 rutile titanium dioxide for enhanced stability, improved coverage and oil dispersibility.

Covapearl Star Silver 9372

INCI name: CI 77891 (and) fluorphlogopite
Suggested use levels: 0.1-30%
Applications: Makeup, skin care and sun care products
Comments: Superior sparkling luster and higher purity than pearl pigments based on natural mica. High purity, good transparency and whiter finish than natural pearls. The ingredient produces no grayish effect in skin care creams.

Lipo Chemicals

Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Lipo SFS-5

INCI name: Isododecane (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) bis-behenyl/isosearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate
Suggested use levels: 1-50%+
Applications: Skin care creams and lotions, foundations, AP/deos, pre- and post-shaving, depilatory and sunless self-tanning.
Comments: Lipo SFS-5 enhances cosmetic products when a non-silicone solution is needed.

Malladi Specialities Ltd.

(Division of MDPL)

Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India
Tel: (+91) 40-27204991
Email: info.msl@malladi.co.in
Website: www.malladispecialities.com


INCI name: Ethylhexyl triazone
Suggested use levels: ≤ 5%
Applications: Sunscreens, personal care products, sun care, baby sun care, daily skin care, decorative cosmetic with sun protection, broad spectrum UVA filter.
Comments: Suntech-990 (EHT) from Malladi Specialities is a broad spectrum UV absorber, absorbing UVB as well as UVA rays. UV radiation is an important cause of premature aging of the skin and in the development of melanoma and other forms of skin cancer. Suntech-990 is a heterocyclic compound and has the ability to convert UV radiation into less damaging infrared radiation (heat).


INCI name: Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Suggested use levels: Daily skin care 0.2-2%, sun care products 0.2-1%, lightening products >3%
Applications: Fairness agent, freckle corrector, sun burn corrector, antioxidant, sun protection formulations, antiwrinkle products, body lotions, day creams and night creams
Comments: Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is cleaved enzymatically in the skin to release active vitamin C. It is an effective antioxidant which protects the cells against damage caused by free radicals. It counteracts skin aging in promoting collagen formation, and also acts on the melanine formation process to prevent hyperpigmentation and senile keratosis.

Momentive Performance Materials

Albany, NY
Tel: (800) 295-2392
Email: cs-na.silicones@momentive.com
Website: www.momentive.com

SilForm Flexible Resin

INCI name: Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Suggested use levels: 5-20%
Applications: Foundations, lipsticks, lip glosses and mascaras
Comments: SilForm Flexible Resin from Momentive Performance Materials provides long-lasting wearability with comfort. It mimics the movements of the skin for a comfortable, not tightening feel. SilForm is a trademark of Momentive Performance Materials Inc.

Softouch CCS402 Boron Nitride Powder

INCI name: Boron nitride
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Eyeshadows, lipsticks, lipglosses, blushes and mascaras.
Comments: In addition to the typical benefits of boron nitride, such as lubricity and adherence, Softouch CCS402 Boron Nitride Powder reflects light helping to add an extra dimension of sparkle to color cosmetic products. Softouch is a trademark of Momentive Performance Materials Inc.

Presperse LLC

Somerset, NJ
Tel: (732) 356-5200
Email: samples@presperse.com
Website: www.presperse.com


INCI name: Bismuth oxychloride and mica and colorant
Suggested use levels: 5-25%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care and personal care
Comments: This ingredient from Presperseuniquely chemically bonded combination of pigments, bismuth oxychloride and muscovite mica. These UV stable pearlescent pigments provide intense color and superior skin adhesion, with a stable satin luster.

RITA Corporation

Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: (815) 337-2500
Email: bfalco@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com

Protesil FN

INCI name: Hydrolyzed silk PG-propyl methylsilanediol, crosspolymer, cyclopentasiloxane, water
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.0%
Applications: makeup, color cosmetics
Comments: Protesil FN from RITA provides an eco-friendly cold process to make skin-friendly, emulsifier-free, water-in-oil emulsions and can also be used to incorporate water/water soluble extracts into anhydrous color cosmetic formulations.

Vistanol GDHR

INCI name: Glyceryl diisostearate/
hydrogenated rosinate
Suggested use levels: Up to 70%
Applications: Lipglosses, balms and sticks
Comments: Vistanol GDHR from RITA is a 100% plant-derived, high viscosity oil with good stability for autooxidation, excellent skin tolerance, superior gloss and good dispersibility for pigments.

Biogenic Magicolor 100

INCI name: Titanium dioxide, CI 77491, boron nitride, teraphlhalic acid/isophlhalic acid/sodium isophthalic acid sulfonate/glycol copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Makeup base, foundation, sunscreen products and other color cosmetics
Comments: Biogenic Magicolor from RITA is encapsulated iron oxide where original color is hidden by capsule wall and pops up on the skin. Suppress of “white mask” when used with TiO2-based sunscreen.

Sabinsa Corporation

Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 777-1111
Email: info@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsa.com

Red Sandalwood Extract

INCI name: Petrocarpus santalinus wood powder
Suggested use levels: Up to 2%
Applications: Natural color
Comments: Red Sandalwood Extract from Sabinsa ultifunctional benefits—antioxidant, skin conditioning, imparts hue and a healthy glow to the skin. Stable in alkaline medium, it can be conveniently used in soaps for its gorgeous deep purplish rose color.

Sappanwood Extract

INCI name: Caesalpinia sappan
Suggested use levels: Up to 2%, depending on the depth of color required
Applications: Natural color
Comments: Sappanwood Extract from Sabinsa imparts two colors depending on the pH of the product. In an acidic solution, the product will appear yellow and in an alkaline preparation it will appear red.
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    January 6, 2017
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