10.13.22
Inspire. Inform. Connect. They’re the three pillars of the UK Society of Cosmetic Scientists. All three were scaled during the 32nd Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC).
The Congress was held September 19-22 in London. Just when the UK Society was confident that the Congress would go on as covid cases abated, the UK fell into mourning over the death of Queen Elizabeth II. In fact, during the Queen’s funeral services, the IFSCC suspended all activities out of respect. Still, the Congress was a success. According to organizers, it attracted more than 700 attendees and over 200 virtual attendees. But whether in-person or online, participants could peruse hundreds of posters and attend dozens of podium presentations.
IFSCC President Eva Ramos welcomed attendees during the opening ceremonies, before turning the podium over to IFSCC President-Elect Tony Gough. He noted that the IFSCC has grown to include 50 societies representing 80 countries. The Congress has grown, too, with podium presentations on subjects ranging from delivering efficacy and well-aging to neuroscience and cutting-edge technologies.
The event opened with a keynote by Rachel Watson of the University of Manchester. She described skin aging as a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. She reiterated the findings of other researchers, noting that aging significantly impacts the biomechanical function and structural composition of skin.
“The exposome consists of exposure to UVR, pollution and modifiable factors; such as smoking, diet, poor sleeping habits and perception of stress,” noted Watson.
In contrast, clinically chronic UVR exposure results in skin laxity, wrinkle formation and altered pigmentation.
“Skin laxity and wrinkle formation is underpinned by changes to the collagenous and elastic dermal matrices driven by direct photochemistry and by cell-mediated remodeling,” she explained.
In her research, Watson found intrinsically aged buttock skin is significantly less resilient (P<0.1), has reduced elasticity (P<0.001) and exhibits signs of skin fatigue (P<0.001) and hysteresis (P<0.01) compared to young buttock skin. At the same time, photodamaged forearm skin displays severe loss of resilience (P<0.001) and elasticity (P<0.001); while fatigue, hysteresis and viscous “creep” (all P<0.001) are exacerbated.
But what intrinsic and extrinsic factor negatively impact skin, there are materials that can rejuvenate it. Jin Woong Kim, Sungkyunkwan University, explained how application of Euglena gracilis-derived extracellular microvesicles fabricated through microalgae extrusion led to unprecedented skin regeneration. Kim began his presentation by reviewing the growing popularity of exosomes, which he described as a highly active, biocompatible, endogenous carrier. He reviewed exosome isolation techniques developed by Exodrop (plant exosome from leaf) and Amorepacific (lactobacillus exosome).
The Euglena gracilis alga has a highly-flexible cell surface, enabling it to change shape from a thin cell up to 100 um long to a sphere approximately 20 um. 1,3-beta glucan from euglena gracilis can be used in a range of applications including wound healing, antioxidation and immune modulation. In tests these EG-derived microvesicles produced 17% more BrdU-positive cells than beta-glucan after 24 hours incubation. In wound-healing tests, the material had 40% improvement in cell migration.
“Our system enables the design of non-animal-derived extracellular vesicles that have considerable potential in the field of skin regeneration,” Kim concluded.
As the masks come off, the color cosmetics go on. It’s no wonder, then why lip color sales have soared in recent months. Tsang-Min Huang, L’Oréal R&I, detailed how liquid-liquid phase separation enables the creation of a one-step, long-lasting color/shine lip gloss. He reviewed current long-wear technology that often results in a formula that provides shine and comfort with a compromise on wear; or imparts shine with a compromise on comfort.
Huang detailed a double-phase technology that provides long-lasting color with good adhesion, transfer-resistance and a thinner deposition with high color payoff. At the same time, the self-healing gloss layer is food ingredient resistant, self-leveling to maintain shine and is comfortable. It involves using the unstable dispersion of a pigmented internal phase and a clear/translucent external phase that is redispersed prior to application.
The solution is a unique and first-in-class, silicone-silicone unstable formula created to achieve one-step, long-lasting color and shine. The long-lasting shine/color is achieved by a good balance between polymer physics, phase separation kinetic and packaging design. Huang demonstrated the long-wear performance and shine retention via a series of in vitro evaluation and proven by a large-scale consumer test against lip gloss benchmark.
Oriflame researchers say they know what makes consumers positively glow. Cyril Messaraa, a principal scientist with the Swedish color cosmetics maker, noted that the term “glow” is used in many product claims, yet there is no concrete definition of it. To get a definition, Oriflame conducted a consumer insight study in several countries.
“Glow equals shininess, but not too much. It must avoid being oily,” explained Messaraa. “Oily or greasy skin has a different shininess that is unpleasant and unattractive. (Consumers) believe that glow is difficult to achieve on oily skin and therefore, the balance needs to be normalized before glow can be considered.”
According to the study findings, radiance and brightness are used as synonyms for glow, though radiance has more personality associated with it. Respondents said that while pigmentation doesn’t prevent glow, it does lessen its impact. They also said that skin care products are an authentic way to achieve glow, while hybrid and makeup products give temporary results.
Some more takeaways? In India and Indonesia, many women said whitening products are outdated or insensitive, though they noted it will take time to completely phase out whitening products. In contrast, in China, white, fair skin is still considered a beauty ideal. In fact, fair skin is more important to Chinese consumers than glowing skin.
“Glow is a great ambassador of holistic beauty claims,” Messaraa concluded.
Christopher Berkey, Stanford University, explained how the exploitation of ingredient interactions can optimize skincare formulations. Specifically, he detailed how emollient selection affects cutaneous barrier and biomechanical function. According to Berkey, biomechanical parameters like stress are strongly responsive to formulation ingredients and affect the barrier function.
“Ingredients may interact synergistically to alter skin stress and modify consumer sensory perception,” said Berkey.
The 10 test formulas were composed of 15% emollient (10 types), 83 or 80% water, 0 or 3% glycerol, 1% sodium polyacrylate, 1% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin and 0.05% sodium stearoyl glutamate. The Stanford researchers concluded that emollient, polymer additive and more ingredient choices have a combined impact on formulation efficacy, barrier function and consumer perception beyond texture, stability and other attributes. Further enhancing penetration of ingredients with more complex formulations presents more opportunities for delivering efficacy and reducing SC mechanical stress.
“Large emollients have the most enhanced efficacy when included in full formulation,” concluded Berkey. “Polymer additives can form surface films that increase stress and could be anti-wrinkling.”
Lionel Muniglia, Biolie, detailed an enzymatic-assisted extraction process to create natural, organic active waters from food waste such as cucumber, pear and zucchini. According to Muniglia, these vegetable waters are multifunctional ingredients bringing water and nutrients to a formula, while boosting efficacy, like tyrosinase inhibition or antioxidant activity. The enzymatic-assisted extraction process starts with food industry coproducts, such as off-size or “ugly” vegetables. The process produces organic natural active waters for the cosmetic industry with limited energy consumption and a low amount of extraction wastes. The waste is valorized into energy due to anaerobic digestion or valorized with composting, giving back residual biomass to the ground to grow new plants.
“These natural ingredients help the formulator use less ingredients in the formula, following the emerging skinimalism trend, aiming for less ingredients and/or more natural and sustainable ones,” he concluded.
Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, BASF Beauty Care Solutions, detailed a microfluidic technique to highlight specificities of microbite communities from sensitive skin. She noted that 50% of European women and 72% of Chinese women have sensitive skin. Focusing on the microbiota, BASF research found those with sensitive skin had 13% more Cutibacterium and 16% less Staphylococcus than normal skin. Furthermore, Bacillus, Acinetobacter, Actinomyces, Kocuria and Micrococcus were abundant in sensitive skin. In contrast, Ruminococcus and Anaerococcus were not detected in sensitive skin. BASF researchers also found that S. epidermidis and S. capitis were the most represented Staph species in non-sensitive skin.
It’s not too early to start thinking about the 33rd IFSCC Congress, which is scheduled for Barcelona, Sept. 4-7, 2023. The theme of the Congress is: “Rethinking Beauty Science.” Organizers are accepting abstracts until Dec. 1, 2022. Visit www.ifscc2023.com
We’ll have more coverage of the IFSCC Congress next week on Happi.com.
The Congress was held September 19-22 in London. Just when the UK Society was confident that the Congress would go on as covid cases abated, the UK fell into mourning over the death of Queen Elizabeth II. In fact, during the Queen’s funeral services, the IFSCC suspended all activities out of respect. Still, the Congress was a success. According to organizers, it attracted more than 700 attendees and over 200 virtual attendees. But whether in-person or online, participants could peruse hundreds of posters and attend dozens of podium presentations.
IFSCC President Eva Ramos welcomed attendees during the opening ceremonies, before turning the podium over to IFSCC President-Elect Tony Gough. He noted that the IFSCC has grown to include 50 societies representing 80 countries. The Congress has grown, too, with podium presentations on subjects ranging from delivering efficacy and well-aging to neuroscience and cutting-edge technologies.
Damage & Repair
The event opened with a keynote by Rachel Watson of the University of Manchester. She described skin aging as a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. She reiterated the findings of other researchers, noting that aging significantly impacts the biomechanical function and structural composition of skin.
“The exposome consists of exposure to UVR, pollution and modifiable factors; such as smoking, diet, poor sleeping habits and perception of stress,” noted Watson.
In contrast, clinically chronic UVR exposure results in skin laxity, wrinkle formation and altered pigmentation.
“Skin laxity and wrinkle formation is underpinned by changes to the collagenous and elastic dermal matrices driven by direct photochemistry and by cell-mediated remodeling,” she explained.
At the closing gala, the IFSCC presented awards to the best papers and posters presented during the Congress. The winners include: Henry Maso Award: Maxime Légues, CTBiotech, “The World’s First 3D Bioprinted Immune Skin Model Suitable for Screening Drugs and Ingredients for Normal and Inflamed Skin.” Basic Research Award: Elias Bou Samra, L’Oréal, “Decoding Epidermis Reconstruction Through Time-Course Multi-Omics Data.” Applied Research Award: Christopher Berkey, Stanford University, “Exploiting Ingredient Interactions to Deliver Optimal Performance of Skin-Care Formulations.” Poster Award: Paul Lawrence, Biocogent, “Targeting Small Non-Coding RNAs to Diminish the Epigenetic Ravages of Aged Skin.” Due to the covid pandemic, the IFSCC didn’t hold a conference or congress in 2020 or 2021. But the Society didn’t forget the outstanding research that took place during that time. During the opening ceremony of the IFSCC Congress in London, organizers recognized the following research: 2021 Maison G de Navarre Award: Jin Hui Zoo, China Johann Wiechers Award: Dr. Moe Tsutsumi, Shiseido, “Skin Beauty with Gentle-Touch-Receptor Merkel Cells Restore Your Sense with Pleasant Scent.” Host Society Award: Luis Serrano, UNAM, “Development and Characterization of a Co-Processed Cosmetic Excipient Based on Solid Lipid Nanoparticles and Talc for Makeup Preparations.” Poster Award: Dr. Tomomi Suga, L’Oréal, “A Novel Technology for Cosmetic Transfer Prevention.” 2020 Henry Maso Award: Dr. Ka-Heng Lee, Wipro Skin Research and Innovation, for his publication in the IFSCC magazine, “From Molecular Characterization to Clinical Validation: Underlying New Science of Skin Glycation and the Skin Lightening Effect of Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol Mediated via an Anti-Glycation Mechanism.” Basic Research Award: Dr. Tomonobu Ezure, Shiseido, “New Horizon in Skincare Targeting the Facial Morphology Retaining Dermal ‘Dynamic Belt,’ Revolution in Skin Analysis, 4D-Digital Skin Technology.” Applied Research Award: Dr. Sacha Salameh, L’Oréal, “A Perfusable Vascularized Full-Thickness Skin Model for Topical and Systemic Applications.” Poster Award: Hisashi Mihara, Takasago International, “How Can We Control Unpleasant Body Malodor Effectively—Development of Novel Fragrances Using the Olfactory Receptor Technology.” |
In her research, Watson found intrinsically aged buttock skin is significantly less resilient (P<0.1), has reduced elasticity (P<0.001) and exhibits signs of skin fatigue (P<0.001) and hysteresis (P<0.01) compared to young buttock skin. At the same time, photodamaged forearm skin displays severe loss of resilience (P<0.001) and elasticity (P<0.001); while fatigue, hysteresis and viscous “creep” (all P<0.001) are exacerbated.
But what intrinsic and extrinsic factor negatively impact skin, there are materials that can rejuvenate it. Jin Woong Kim, Sungkyunkwan University, explained how application of Euglena gracilis-derived extracellular microvesicles fabricated through microalgae extrusion led to unprecedented skin regeneration. Kim began his presentation by reviewing the growing popularity of exosomes, which he described as a highly active, biocompatible, endogenous carrier. He reviewed exosome isolation techniques developed by Exodrop (plant exosome from leaf) and Amorepacific (lactobacillus exosome).
The Euglena gracilis alga has a highly-flexible cell surface, enabling it to change shape from a thin cell up to 100 um long to a sphere approximately 20 um. 1,3-beta glucan from euglena gracilis can be used in a range of applications including wound healing, antioxidation and immune modulation. In tests these EG-derived microvesicles produced 17% more BrdU-positive cells than beta-glucan after 24 hours incubation. In wound-healing tests, the material had 40% improvement in cell migration.
“Our system enables the design of non-animal-derived extracellular vesicles that have considerable potential in the field of skin regeneration,” Kim concluded.
A World of Color
As the masks come off, the color cosmetics go on. It’s no wonder, then why lip color sales have soared in recent months. Tsang-Min Huang, L’Oréal R&I, detailed how liquid-liquid phase separation enables the creation of a one-step, long-lasting color/shine lip gloss. He reviewed current long-wear technology that often results in a formula that provides shine and comfort with a compromise on wear; or imparts shine with a compromise on comfort.
Huang detailed a double-phase technology that provides long-lasting color with good adhesion, transfer-resistance and a thinner deposition with high color payoff. At the same time, the self-healing gloss layer is food ingredient resistant, self-leveling to maintain shine and is comfortable. It involves using the unstable dispersion of a pigmented internal phase and a clear/translucent external phase that is redispersed prior to application.
The solution is a unique and first-in-class, silicone-silicone unstable formula created to achieve one-step, long-lasting color and shine. The long-lasting shine/color is achieved by a good balance between polymer physics, phase separation kinetic and packaging design. Huang demonstrated the long-wear performance and shine retention via a series of in vitro evaluation and proven by a large-scale consumer test against lip gloss benchmark.
Oriflame researchers say they know what makes consumers positively glow. Cyril Messaraa, a principal scientist with the Swedish color cosmetics maker, noted that the term “glow” is used in many product claims, yet there is no concrete definition of it. To get a definition, Oriflame conducted a consumer insight study in several countries.
“Glow equals shininess, but not too much. It must avoid being oily,” explained Messaraa. “Oily or greasy skin has a different shininess that is unpleasant and unattractive. (Consumers) believe that glow is difficult to achieve on oily skin and therefore, the balance needs to be normalized before glow can be considered.”
According to the study findings, radiance and brightness are used as synonyms for glow, though radiance has more personality associated with it. Respondents said that while pigmentation doesn’t prevent glow, it does lessen its impact. They also said that skin care products are an authentic way to achieve glow, while hybrid and makeup products give temporary results.
Some more takeaways? In India and Indonesia, many women said whitening products are outdated or insensitive, though they noted it will take time to completely phase out whitening products. In contrast, in China, white, fair skin is still considered a beauty ideal. In fact, fair skin is more important to Chinese consumers than glowing skin.
“Glow is a great ambassador of holistic beauty claims,” Messaraa concluded.
Skincare Ingredient Interaction
Christopher Berkey, Stanford University, explained how the exploitation of ingredient interactions can optimize skincare formulations. Specifically, he detailed how emollient selection affects cutaneous barrier and biomechanical function. According to Berkey, biomechanical parameters like stress are strongly responsive to formulation ingredients and affect the barrier function.
“Ingredients may interact synergistically to alter skin stress and modify consumer sensory perception,” said Berkey.
The 10 test formulas were composed of 15% emollient (10 types), 83 or 80% water, 0 or 3% glycerol, 1% sodium polyacrylate, 1% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin and 0.05% sodium stearoyl glutamate. The Stanford researchers concluded that emollient, polymer additive and more ingredient choices have a combined impact on formulation efficacy, barrier function and consumer perception beyond texture, stability and other attributes. Further enhancing penetration of ingredients with more complex formulations presents more opportunities for delivering efficacy and reducing SC mechanical stress.
“Large emollients have the most enhanced efficacy when included in full formulation,” concluded Berkey. “Polymer additives can form surface films that increase stress and could be anti-wrinkling.”
Natural, Organic Waters for Skincare
Lionel Muniglia, Biolie, detailed an enzymatic-assisted extraction process to create natural, organic active waters from food waste such as cucumber, pear and zucchini. According to Muniglia, these vegetable waters are multifunctional ingredients bringing water and nutrients to a formula, while boosting efficacy, like tyrosinase inhibition or antioxidant activity. The enzymatic-assisted extraction process starts with food industry coproducts, such as off-size or “ugly” vegetables. The process produces organic natural active waters for the cosmetic industry with limited energy consumption and a low amount of extraction wastes. The waste is valorized into energy due to anaerobic digestion or valorized with composting, giving back residual biomass to the ground to grow new plants.
“These natural ingredients help the formulator use less ingredients in the formula, following the emerging skinimalism trend, aiming for less ingredients and/or more natural and sustainable ones,” he concluded.
Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, BASF Beauty Care Solutions, detailed a microfluidic technique to highlight specificities of microbite communities from sensitive skin. She noted that 50% of European women and 72% of Chinese women have sensitive skin. Focusing on the microbiota, BASF research found those with sensitive skin had 13% more Cutibacterium and 16% less Staphylococcus than normal skin. Furthermore, Bacillus, Acinetobacter, Actinomyces, Kocuria and Micrococcus were abundant in sensitive skin. In contrast, Ruminococcus and Anaerococcus were not detected in sensitive skin. BASF researchers also found that S. epidermidis and S. capitis were the most represented Staph species in non-sensitive skin.
It’s not too early to start thinking about the 33rd IFSCC Congress, which is scheduled for Barcelona, Sept. 4-7, 2023. The theme of the Congress is: “Rethinking Beauty Science.” Organizers are accepting abstracts until Dec. 1, 2022. Visit www.ifscc2023.com
We’ll have more coverage of the IFSCC Congress next week on Happi.com.