Tom Branna, Editorial Director 09.01.16
For the misinformed consumer, SLES is a four-letter word. Sodium lauryl ether sulfate and its partner in cleaning grime, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), have been blamed for everything from causing cancer to forming dioxane to ruining a new dye job. As such, surfactant suppliers to the global household, personal care, and industrial and institutional cleaning industries are rolling out an array of ingredients that tout their natural and mild profiles.
According to Kevin Gallagher, president, Kevin Gallagher Consulting, Key West, FL, the move toward sustainability is well underway and, for consumer product companies, the emphasis is on reducing their carbon footprint. To get there, Gallagher maintains that demand is growing for products that are:
Tom Keech, senior formulating chemist, Rita Corp., has received requests for ingredients that meet requirements for NPA, Prop. 65 and Whole Foods’ certification, as well as low Environmental Working Group (EWG) scores. His company’s extensive line of Ritafactants includes ingredients that are sulfate-free, PEG-free, DEA/MEA-free that are becoming a major focal point of R&D development.
“These have steadily increased over the years with retail shelf space increasing for the more natural products,” Keech explained.
In addition, building emulsions and serums using PEG-free emulsifiers is another growing category that has expanded from personal care and even into auto care segments in the form of polishes and leather creams, he said.
“Ritamulse SCG is a good example of a natural based, all-in-one emulsifier,” according to Keech. “Nonionic guar gums are great options to formulate serums and gels for improved skin feel and a better safety profile.”
In addition, instead of mineral oil, more customers are using a variety of esters and lower cost natural oils to get similar benefits.
“In general, customers are also looking for cost savings,” Keech added. “Another way we have been able to address this is through customized surfactant packages. These customer specific blends can help save money by reducing kettle and blending time, and even help a company move to cold process formulas.”
The challenge for new product development is formulating a sulfate-free product that retains the characteristics of sulfate formulations, observed Bill Woods, business manager-North America, Galaxy Surfactants. He noted that consumers are expecting products that have the same rheological properties, detergency, and skin feel as products that contain sulfate.
“In essence, they are not willing to sacrifice efficiency, performance or feel,” said Woods. “Consumers will pay a higher price for a product that is sustainable, mild and sulfate-free, but if that product does not have the same characteristics and performance that they are expecting, repeat customers will be hard to come by.”
Unfortunately, suppliers and their customers must deal with a growing list of issues from a growing list of sources—government agencies, NGOs and, perhaps, most critically, retailers. Gallagher noted that Walmart’s list of eight ingredients is closely adhered to by suppliers in a range of industries; materials on that list include: formaldehyde, triclosan, toluene, diethyl phthalate, nonylphenol ethoxylates, butylparabens, dibutyl phthalate and propyl paraben. Nearly all of them are unrelated to surfactants, but a wary public has put the industry on notice and sent suppliers searching for alternatives.
“Probably the materials of the future will be made through biochemistry such as fermentation,” predicted Gallagher.
New Opportunities
As a result, he expects rhamnolipids to grow in importance. This class of glycolipids is produced by Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Rhamnolipids, sophorlipids and other glycolipid biosurfactants have the attention of many suppliers, but much work remains.
“No company has jumped out to a leadership position; it is very early for the technology,” maintained Gallagher. He admitted that the biosurfactant technology costs more, but as volumes rise, prices will come down.
The industry is giving more attention to biodegradability, agreed Lea Seidenbinder of Seppic.
“We definitely see a shift for a more natural solution,” she said. “Seppic offers specialty surfactant designed for gentle cleansing, sensorial foams with the additional benefit of natural origin even before it was trendy.”
Indeed, 100% of Seppic’s offer is from vegetable origin, according to Seidenbinder.
“The end consumer is looking for more products (that combine) great efficacy and the benefit of well being.”
Woods of Galaxy Surfactants agreed.
“Consumers are growing ever conscious of the products they buy, the ingredients in them and where they come from,” he noted. “Ingredient suppliers, like Galaxy Surfactants, are increasing their overall sustainability efforts and tracking their progress against well-defined objectives to meet these industry changes.
Filling a Need
Whether biosurfactant or a more traditional surface active agent, suppliers can rest easy knowing that demand for their products is constant. Linda Boasmond of Cedar Concepts told Happi that analysts expect the surfactant business for personal care and HI&I to grow at a CAGR of 4-5.5%, driven by the development of markets in Latin America and Asia-Pacific regions, due to rising income levels in those regions.
For example, according to Euromonitor International, the Asia Pacific (APAC) beauty and personal care market is set to grow by nearly 25% during the next four years, reaching a value of $167 billion.
According to Ashland’s Zee Pongonis, disposable income is rising in the emerging markets of Asia and Latin America, and that empowers consumers to purchase higher performing cleaning products.
“Increasingly, these formulations include label claims similar to those found in well-established markets,” she told Happi. “This trend bodes well for Ashland with products such as Sorez HS 205 polymer, a polymer that works synergistically with surfactant systems designed for hard surface cleaners. At low use levels, the polymer reduces the ability of soil to stay in place, making cleaning easier.”
Pongonis said Ashland serves formulators and marketers of cleaners with solutions that complement regional and global surfactant use patterns. For example, due to its mild properties, a surfactant such as sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate finds increasing use in dish soap and other products. Ashland supports the performance of these and other surfactants using wetting agents that interact with anionic micelles. Products such as Surfadone LP wetting agents help to improve detergency by significantly enhancing water solubility and wetting while reducing surface tension.
Victor Low, global marketing manager, chassis, personal care, Lonza, noted that waterless systems have generated some waves in his company’s surfactant business.
“With growing concern over water scarcity around the globe, the demand for waterless systems is increasing,” he explained.
“Our surfactant business has been very dynamic and exciting in 2016 (through) working collaboratively with our key partnerships,” said David Kreckman of Lubrizol. “(By) offering formulated solutions, we help our customers respond to changing consumer needs, market trends and regulations.”
For its US surfactant business, Galaxy Surfactants has seen steady, incremental growth year over year with pockets of robust growth in various market niches.
“In the US personal care market, we have been witnessing a shift away from traditional surfactants to mild, gentler surfactants that are not as harsh on the skin or scalp,” noted Mary Beth Comerford, marketing specialist, Galaxy Surfactants.
But according to Low, trends within the surfactant industry tend to move slower than overall consumer trends, primarily due to regulatory changes such as REACH and other reforms.
“For example, the interest for more ‘naturally-derived’ alternatives exists but the demand is not as high for surfactant ingredients as compared to other components within a formulation,” maintained Low. “Not all customers are willing to pay a premium for ‘natural and green.’ Smaller or mid-sized companies tend to invest more into these developments.”
From his vantage, Central Europe and Scandinavia are spearheading the concept toward natural, green and sustainable.
Meanwhile, multinational companies are switching back and forth between oleo- and petrochemicals in order to keep the costs low and to maximize margin.
“The cost-performance ratio, in regards to both cleansing properties and formulation aesthetics, remains the primary focus for manufacturers utilizing surfactants today,” he concluded.
A Seat at the Table
According to Chris Hammond, Stepan’s commercial development manager, regulatory, sustainability and trade, Stepan Company has been a member of the Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) since 2011 and fully supports its mission to make sustainable palm oil and palm oil derivatives the industry standard.
“Stepan has successfully completed RSPO Mass-Balance Supply Chain certification at three manufacturing sites in Europe,” he told Happi. “Five manufacturing sites in the US are expected to complete certification by the third quarter of 2016, followed by Asia in the fourth quarter of 2016.”
Stepan continues to respond to customer inquiries and provide product recommendations based on customer need for multifunctionality as well as safer chemical alternatives, noted Anne Gariepy, technical service and sales development manager.
“In response, Stepan introduced a nonionic blend series, Bio-Soft N400/N-900/N-901/N-1200, as an alternative to nonylphenol ethoxylates as well as continues to list surfactants on www.cleangredients.org in support of US EPA Safer Choice certification,” she explained.
Under Development
Stepan is expanding in Brazil with the recent acquisitions of the commercial business of Tebras Tensoativos do Brazil Ltda. (Tebras) and the sulfonation production facility of PBC Industria Quimica Ltda. (PBC). The combined entities have annual sales of approximately $32 million, 25,000 metric tons of sulfonation capacity and a large, diverse customer portfolio. Both closings are expected in the fourth quarter.
“The acquisition of Tebras and PBC is expected to expand and diversify our customer base for sulfonated products in Brazil and to provide an opportunity to sell our broader surfactant portfolio to over 1,200 new customers who will benefit from Stepan’s technical service and formulation support,” said F. Quinn Stepan Jr., president and CEO of Stepan Company. “Over time, we plan to utilize the newly acquired site within the greater Sao Paulo area to produce additional product lines. This acquisition is expected to be slightly accretive to earnings for the first full year of ownership.”
Lubrizol, too, has expanded in Brazil, with new surfactant production capabilities at its plant in Belford Roxo.
What’s New?
Rita recently introduced a new line of stabilized vitamin C called Amitose VC series. It uses ascorbic acid reacted with glycerin to produce glyceryl ascorbate that resists color oxidation and has anti-aging, skin lightening benefits. Also new is sulfate-free blend called Ritafactant SFE. According to Keech, this is an economical, all-in-one blend that has supporting HRIPT, hair repair and color protection data. It is free from sulfates, sulfonates, DEA/MEA and betaine. According to Rita, this is easy to use in clear and opaque systems with efficient thickening mechanisms ranging from gums to acrylates to PEGs.
With naturally derived and “free from” claims driving the home care and personal care market, Stepan is helping consumer product companies and marketers meet these trends with two new products, StepanBlend FF40 and Ninol CAA. StepanBlend FF40 is an anionic/nonionic/amphoteric surfactant blend “free from” sulfated surfactants, DEA amides, 1,4-dioxane and preservatives, which deliver ample foam and viscosity build in finished products. Ninol CAA is a DEA-free amide that is said to provide superior viscosity build over traditional amides and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). Stepan says that Ninol CAA provides excellent foam generation and stabilization and also acts as a fragrance solubilizer, allowing formulators to minimize components while maximizing performance.
Seppic offers a wide range of specialty surfactants derived from amino acids, sugar or fatty alcohol. A focus on intimate hygiene also has been done following a growing market and demand in that specific area.
“In the continuity of offering efficient and safe materials, we have decided to perform a new tolerance test on reconstructed human vaginal epithelium (skin-ethic model) where we were able to show a great tolerance in rinse off products,” added Seidenbinder.
Like other suppliers, she noted that greener solutions and sulfate-free products have been good opportunities, especially in the premium shampoo segment.
“Of course the big success of micellar water has increased requests for well tolerated and biodegradable surfactants that keep formulations completely transparent,” Seidenbinder added.
Lubrizol’s line of Carbopol Smart polymers can be used to formulate a wide range of products, from traditional body and hand cleansers to high pH soap-based cleansers.
According to the company, the polymers deliver exceptional foaming and sensory that will delight consumers and interact with surfactant to reduce skin irritancy and promotes a mild, smooth sensory profile. Lubrizol maintains Carbopol Smart polymers enable chemists to build formulations with exceptional suspension power for striking visuals.
Furthermore, these simple, easy-to-use thickeners require no neutralization and can be processed continuously, too.
Galaxy Surfactants has established Galaxy Surfactants North America (GSNA) to provide direct and local access to all products, technologies, innovations and services. From GSNA comes a new line of mild surfactants call GalSoft.
According to Woods, these five products comprise one of the broadest portfolios of mild surfactants available in North America offering formulators the tools to create new products to meet the growing consumer demand for gentle personal cleaning products.
Most recently, Ashland opened a state-of-the-art technical center in Mumbai to provide formulators solutions that address the practices of India’s consumers and their demand for higher-performing formulations.
“Just as importantly, R&D experts at Ashland’s primary consumer care laboratories in Bridgewater, NJ, and Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands, bring innovative technology solutions to the world’s cleaning markets in order to address long-term trends,” said Pongonis.
Cedar Concepts is looking more toward innovation and sustainability both within its processes and its products, said Boasmond.
“To achieve these goals we’ve added process engineers, R&D chemists and additional support for our quality assurance team.”
The recent appointment of its director of sales and business development will assist Cedar in maximizing its goals in these areas.
“In addition we’ve moved personnel to our new LEED plant in the Midwest,” according to Boasmond. “This expansion will support the process improvements and new product development plans.”
Lonza has hired Dr. Christoph Kolano, Ph.D, in the role of associate director, global portfolio development for its personal care business. Based in Basel, Switzerland, he is responsible for designing and initiating the development of new products for the Lonza personal care global portfolio. Kolano has more than 12 years of expertise in value creation within the chemical industry, with a strong focus on oleochemicals, petrochemicals, surfactants and intermediates.
A member of the Association of German Chemists and the Association of Swiss Chemists, he has authored more than 25 papers in peer-reviewed journals and has been granted patents in oleochemicals and surfactants, according to Lonza.
Whether investing in plants, people or product, surfactant suppliers are committed to this growing, relatively stable market.
“Surfactants will always be a major driver even in slower economic times,” observed Keech. “Consumers always need their shampoos, body washes and hand soaps!”
Looking for a new surfactant for your household and personal care formula? Contact the suppliers directly below.
Cedar Concepts
Chicago, IL
Tel: 773-890-5790
Email: info@cedarconcepts.net
Website: www.cedarconcepts.net
Cycloteric OL, Cyclomox OL
INCI: Olivamidopropyl betaine and olivamidopropylamine oxide
Applications: personal care formulas
Use levels: 6%
Comments: These naturally derived, patent-pending products increase viscosity and conditioning properties to formulations. Olive oil assists in the suppression of DTH hormone production. DTH causes the hair follicle shaft to narrow, olive oil assists in preventing this from happening. Loaded with antioxidants, which promotes scalp health, olive oil can even reduce the damage done by hair care products or the overuse of styling products. Olive oil makes hair shiny and soft, and it has been used for centuries as a natural hair conditioner.
Cycloteroc AV, Cyclomox AV
INCI: avocadamidopropyl betaine and avocadamidopropylamine oxide
Applications: personal care formulas
Use levels: 6%
Comments: Avocado oil used topically can boost your skin’s ability to generate more and stronger cells.Vitamin E, potassium, and lecithin are the primary skin-feeding nutrients in the oil and are all easily absorbed through the epidermis and into the dermis where they provide energy for the growth and health of new skin as well as fortification of existing cells. These same nutrients are also exceptionally nourishing for your hair, improving both the appearance and structure while at the same time promoting healthier and faster growth.
Tel: 302-429-5371
Email: homecare.us@croda.com
Website: www.crodahomecare.com
Diversaclean NC
Diversaclean CS
INCI/Chemical description: Nonionic surfactant blend
Applications:: A nonionic/APG blend that is stable in high pH systems and can be used in both I&I and consumer formulations
Use levels: 2-10% Comments:50% bio based; provides the benefits of APG with a powerful cleaning boost, fast wetting and soil removal
CrystaSense Sapphire
INCI/Chemical description: Rheology modifier
Applications: A water based rheology modifier that provides vertical surface cling in cleaning products
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Effective polymeric thickener for aqueous neutral-alkaline hard surface cleaning formulations
Galaxy Surfactants North America
Denville, NJ
Tel: 973-298-8850
Email: info@galaxy-us.com
Website: http://na.galaxysurfactants.com/
GalSoft GLI 21
INCI: Potassium cocoyl glutamate (and) sodium cocoyl isethionate
Applications: Body washes, face wash, makeup remover, shampoos
Use levels: 10-40%
Comments: GalSoft GLI 21 is an innovative, new mild surfactant capable of producing copious amounts of foam.
GalSoft SCGL
INCI: Disodium cocoyl glutamate
Applications: Body wash, face wash, makeup remover, shampoos
Use levels: 15-55%
Comments: GalSoft SCGL is intended for personal care cleansing products where a deep and gentle cleanse is desired.
GalSoft SCT
INCI: Sodium cocoyl taurate
Applications: Bodywashes, face wash, makeup remover, shampoos
Use levels: 10-35%
Comments: GalSoft SCT cleans and leaves the skin with a soft, supple feel. Based on an amino acid, GalSoft SCT cleans and moisturizes without the harshness found in other traditional primary surfactants.
Lonza Consumer Care
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonzaconsumercare.com
Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester
INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate
Applications: Personal care surfactant cleansing systems such as baby shampoos, hand washes and facial cleaners
Use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Comments: Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester is said to have better flash foam properties than many other competitive raw materials. Lonza’s research shows a three times faster foam build over the first 200 seconds in face wash and baby shampoo applications.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare/
Schercoteric C 250 Surfactant
INCI: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
Applications: Bodywashes, shampoos, hand soaps, skin cleansers, bath products
Use levels: 5-25%
Comments: Very mild amphoteric surfactant with good foam height and stability, and sensorial benefits which makes it ideal for use in personal care cleaning applications.
Chemoryl B-RSKLV Surfactant
INCI: Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Applications: Bodywashes, shampoos, hand soaps, skin cleansers, bath products
Use levels: 25-55%
Comments: Easy to use, concentrated, amide free, bio-based surfactant solution, ideal for use in cost effective alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate free body washes, hand soaps and color protection shampoos, when a rich creamy foam is desired.
Sulfochem EA-2SB Surfactant
INCI: Ammonium laureth sulfate
Applications: Bodywashes, shampoos, hand soaps, intimate cleansers, and other bath products
Use levels: 15-25%
Comments: Versatile, sodium benzoate preserved, bio-based primary surfactant for use in shampoos, mild cleansers, bath and shower products where high foam volume is desired and low pH is essential.
Rita Corporation
Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: 815-337-2500
Email: info@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com
Ritafactant SFE
INCI: Lauryl glucoside, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, sodium lauroyl lactylate Applications: Hair and skin care formulas
Use levels: 30-45%
Comments: A low cost blend composed of primary and secondary surfactants with Rita’s foam-boosting sodium lauroyl lactlyate. Contains mild surfactants. Final product claims include sulfate-free, sulfonate-free and DEA/MEA free. Versatile in clear, opaque and pearlescent systems. Cold process formulas can help streamline production efficiency.
Amitose VC series
Description: Glyceryl ascorbate series, created by the fusion of vitamin C, ascorbic acid and glycerin
Applications: skin toners, creams, gels, serums
Use levels: formula dependent
Comments: Available in basic (Amitose 2G, Amitose DGA and Amitose 3GA) and advanced (Amitose MGA, Amitose HGA and Amitose 3LGA), these materials offer various biological activity due to their vitamin C structure, including enhancement of collagen production, skin conditioning, anti-wrinkle effects and moisturizing ability.
Seppic, Inc
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-882-5597
Email: us.seppic@airliquide.com
Website: www.seppic.com
Proteol Oat PF
Description: Sodium lauroyl oat amino acids
Applications: Soft surfactant which offers stable and rich foam. This sulfate-free amino acids-derived is a gentle cleansing agent perfect to obtain dense and abundant foam while maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier.
Use levels: 1-10%
Stepan Company
Northfield, IL
Tel: (800) 745-7837
Email: techserv@stepan.com
Website: www.stepan.com
Ninol CAA
INCI: Dimethyl lauramide/myristamide
Applications: Shampoo, body wash, liquid soap (hand and dish), facial cleanser, bubble bath, deodorants
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Maximize performance and minimize components with Ninol CAA, a novel, naturally-derived aesthetics enhancer and fragrance solubilizer. Ninol CAA enables the solubilization of fragrances and dissolves various organic materials at room temperature due to a large Hansen Solubility sphere, while still demonstrating excellent viscosity and foaming performance. At reduced use levels, this DEA-free, multifunctional nonionic surfactant provides superior viscosity building performance and comparable foam stabilization to traditional amides and betaines. Utilizing Ninol CAA as a fragrance solubilizer, viscosity builder and foam stabilizer can reduce complexity and the number of components in the finished formulation.
According to Kevin Gallagher, president, Kevin Gallagher Consulting, Key West, FL, the move toward sustainability is well underway and, for consumer product companies, the emphasis is on reducing their carbon footprint. To get there, Gallagher maintains that demand is growing for products that are:
- Renewable,
- Low carbon,
- Biodegradable,
- Functional, and
- Cost/performance based
Tom Keech, senior formulating chemist, Rita Corp., has received requests for ingredients that meet requirements for NPA, Prop. 65 and Whole Foods’ certification, as well as low Environmental Working Group (EWG) scores. His company’s extensive line of Ritafactants includes ingredients that are sulfate-free, PEG-free, DEA/MEA-free that are becoming a major focal point of R&D development.
“These have steadily increased over the years with retail shelf space increasing for the more natural products,” Keech explained.
In addition, building emulsions and serums using PEG-free emulsifiers is another growing category that has expanded from personal care and even into auto care segments in the form of polishes and leather creams, he said.
“Ritamulse SCG is a good example of a natural based, all-in-one emulsifier,” according to Keech. “Nonionic guar gums are great options to formulate serums and gels for improved skin feel and a better safety profile.”
In addition, instead of mineral oil, more customers are using a variety of esters and lower cost natural oils to get similar benefits.
“In general, customers are also looking for cost savings,” Keech added. “Another way we have been able to address this is through customized surfactant packages. These customer specific blends can help save money by reducing kettle and blending time, and even help a company move to cold process formulas.”
The challenge for new product development is formulating a sulfate-free product that retains the characteristics of sulfate formulations, observed Bill Woods, business manager-North America, Galaxy Surfactants. He noted that consumers are expecting products that have the same rheological properties, detergency, and skin feel as products that contain sulfate.
“In essence, they are not willing to sacrifice efficiency, performance or feel,” said Woods. “Consumers will pay a higher price for a product that is sustainable, mild and sulfate-free, but if that product does not have the same characteristics and performance that they are expecting, repeat customers will be hard to come by.”
Unfortunately, suppliers and their customers must deal with a growing list of issues from a growing list of sources—government agencies, NGOs and, perhaps, most critically, retailers. Gallagher noted that Walmart’s list of eight ingredients is closely adhered to by suppliers in a range of industries; materials on that list include: formaldehyde, triclosan, toluene, diethyl phthalate, nonylphenol ethoxylates, butylparabens, dibutyl phthalate and propyl paraben. Nearly all of them are unrelated to surfactants, but a wary public has put the industry on notice and sent suppliers searching for alternatives.
“Probably the materials of the future will be made through biochemistry such as fermentation,” predicted Gallagher.
New Opportunities
As a result, he expects rhamnolipids to grow in importance. This class of glycolipids is produced by Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Rhamnolipids, sophorlipids and other glycolipid biosurfactants have the attention of many suppliers, but much work remains.
“No company has jumped out to a leadership position; it is very early for the technology,” maintained Gallagher. He admitted that the biosurfactant technology costs more, but as volumes rise, prices will come down.
The industry is giving more attention to biodegradability, agreed Lea Seidenbinder of Seppic.
“We definitely see a shift for a more natural solution,” she said. “Seppic offers specialty surfactant designed for gentle cleansing, sensorial foams with the additional benefit of natural origin even before it was trendy.”
Indeed, 100% of Seppic’s offer is from vegetable origin, according to Seidenbinder.
“The end consumer is looking for more products (that combine) great efficacy and the benefit of well being.”
Woods of Galaxy Surfactants agreed.
“Consumers are growing ever conscious of the products they buy, the ingredients in them and where they come from,” he noted. “Ingredient suppliers, like Galaxy Surfactants, are increasing their overall sustainability efforts and tracking their progress against well-defined objectives to meet these industry changes.
Filling a Need
Whether biosurfactant or a more traditional surface active agent, suppliers can rest easy knowing that demand for their products is constant. Linda Boasmond of Cedar Concepts told Happi that analysts expect the surfactant business for personal care and HI&I to grow at a CAGR of 4-5.5%, driven by the development of markets in Latin America and Asia-Pacific regions, due to rising income levels in those regions.
For example, according to Euromonitor International, the Asia Pacific (APAC) beauty and personal care market is set to grow by nearly 25% during the next four years, reaching a value of $167 billion.
According to Ashland’s Zee Pongonis, disposable income is rising in the emerging markets of Asia and Latin America, and that empowers consumers to purchase higher performing cleaning products.
“Increasingly, these formulations include label claims similar to those found in well-established markets,” she told Happi. “This trend bodes well for Ashland with products such as Sorez HS 205 polymer, a polymer that works synergistically with surfactant systems designed for hard surface cleaners. At low use levels, the polymer reduces the ability of soil to stay in place, making cleaning easier.”
Pongonis said Ashland serves formulators and marketers of cleaners with solutions that complement regional and global surfactant use patterns. For example, due to its mild properties, a surfactant such as sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate finds increasing use in dish soap and other products. Ashland supports the performance of these and other surfactants using wetting agents that interact with anionic micelles. Products such as Surfadone LP wetting agents help to improve detergency by significantly enhancing water solubility and wetting while reducing surface tension.
Victor Low, global marketing manager, chassis, personal care, Lonza, noted that waterless systems have generated some waves in his company’s surfactant business.
“With growing concern over water scarcity around the globe, the demand for waterless systems is increasing,” he explained.
“Our surfactant business has been very dynamic and exciting in 2016 (through) working collaboratively with our key partnerships,” said David Kreckman of Lubrizol. “(By) offering formulated solutions, we help our customers respond to changing consumer needs, market trends and regulations.”
For its US surfactant business, Galaxy Surfactants has seen steady, incremental growth year over year with pockets of robust growth in various market niches.
“In the US personal care market, we have been witnessing a shift away from traditional surfactants to mild, gentler surfactants that are not as harsh on the skin or scalp,” noted Mary Beth Comerford, marketing specialist, Galaxy Surfactants.
But according to Low, trends within the surfactant industry tend to move slower than overall consumer trends, primarily due to regulatory changes such as REACH and other reforms.
“For example, the interest for more ‘naturally-derived’ alternatives exists but the demand is not as high for surfactant ingredients as compared to other components within a formulation,” maintained Low. “Not all customers are willing to pay a premium for ‘natural and green.’ Smaller or mid-sized companies tend to invest more into these developments.”
From his vantage, Central Europe and Scandinavia are spearheading the concept toward natural, green and sustainable.
Meanwhile, multinational companies are switching back and forth between oleo- and petrochemicals in order to keep the costs low and to maximize margin.
“The cost-performance ratio, in regards to both cleansing properties and formulation aesthetics, remains the primary focus for manufacturers utilizing surfactants today,” he concluded.
A Seat at the Table
According to Chris Hammond, Stepan’s commercial development manager, regulatory, sustainability and trade, Stepan Company has been a member of the Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) since 2011 and fully supports its mission to make sustainable palm oil and palm oil derivatives the industry standard.
“Stepan has successfully completed RSPO Mass-Balance Supply Chain certification at three manufacturing sites in Europe,” he told Happi. “Five manufacturing sites in the US are expected to complete certification by the third quarter of 2016, followed by Asia in the fourth quarter of 2016.”
Stepan continues to respond to customer inquiries and provide product recommendations based on customer need for multifunctionality as well as safer chemical alternatives, noted Anne Gariepy, technical service and sales development manager.
“In response, Stepan introduced a nonionic blend series, Bio-Soft N400/N-900/N-901/N-1200, as an alternative to nonylphenol ethoxylates as well as continues to list surfactants on www.cleangredients.org in support of US EPA Safer Choice certification,” she explained.
Under Development
Stepan is expanding in Brazil with the recent acquisitions of the commercial business of Tebras Tensoativos do Brazil Ltda. (Tebras) and the sulfonation production facility of PBC Industria Quimica Ltda. (PBC). The combined entities have annual sales of approximately $32 million, 25,000 metric tons of sulfonation capacity and a large, diverse customer portfolio. Both closings are expected in the fourth quarter.
“The acquisition of Tebras and PBC is expected to expand and diversify our customer base for sulfonated products in Brazil and to provide an opportunity to sell our broader surfactant portfolio to over 1,200 new customers who will benefit from Stepan’s technical service and formulation support,” said F. Quinn Stepan Jr., president and CEO of Stepan Company. “Over time, we plan to utilize the newly acquired site within the greater Sao Paulo area to produce additional product lines. This acquisition is expected to be slightly accretive to earnings for the first full year of ownership.”
Lubrizol, too, has expanded in Brazil, with new surfactant production capabilities at its plant in Belford Roxo.
What’s New?
Rita recently introduced a new line of stabilized vitamin C called Amitose VC series. It uses ascorbic acid reacted with glycerin to produce glyceryl ascorbate that resists color oxidation and has anti-aging, skin lightening benefits. Also new is sulfate-free blend called Ritafactant SFE. According to Keech, this is an economical, all-in-one blend that has supporting HRIPT, hair repair and color protection data. It is free from sulfates, sulfonates, DEA/MEA and betaine. According to Rita, this is easy to use in clear and opaque systems with efficient thickening mechanisms ranging from gums to acrylates to PEGs.
With naturally derived and “free from” claims driving the home care and personal care market, Stepan is helping consumer product companies and marketers meet these trends with two new products, StepanBlend FF40 and Ninol CAA. StepanBlend FF40 is an anionic/nonionic/amphoteric surfactant blend “free from” sulfated surfactants, DEA amides, 1,4-dioxane and preservatives, which deliver ample foam and viscosity build in finished products. Ninol CAA is a DEA-free amide that is said to provide superior viscosity build over traditional amides and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). Stepan says that Ninol CAA provides excellent foam generation and stabilization and also acts as a fragrance solubilizer, allowing formulators to minimize components while maximizing performance.
Seppic offers a wide range of specialty surfactants derived from amino acids, sugar or fatty alcohol. A focus on intimate hygiene also has been done following a growing market and demand in that specific area.
“In the continuity of offering efficient and safe materials, we have decided to perform a new tolerance test on reconstructed human vaginal epithelium (skin-ethic model) where we were able to show a great tolerance in rinse off products,” added Seidenbinder.
Like other suppliers, she noted that greener solutions and sulfate-free products have been good opportunities, especially in the premium shampoo segment.
“Of course the big success of micellar water has increased requests for well tolerated and biodegradable surfactants that keep formulations completely transparent,” Seidenbinder added.
Lubrizol’s line of Carbopol Smart polymers can be used to formulate a wide range of products, from traditional body and hand cleansers to high pH soap-based cleansers.
According to the company, the polymers deliver exceptional foaming and sensory that will delight consumers and interact with surfactant to reduce skin irritancy and promotes a mild, smooth sensory profile. Lubrizol maintains Carbopol Smart polymers enable chemists to build formulations with exceptional suspension power for striking visuals.
Furthermore, these simple, easy-to-use thickeners require no neutralization and can be processed continuously, too.
Galaxy Surfactants has established Galaxy Surfactants North America (GSNA) to provide direct and local access to all products, technologies, innovations and services. From GSNA comes a new line of mild surfactants call GalSoft.
According to Woods, these five products comprise one of the broadest portfolios of mild surfactants available in North America offering formulators the tools to create new products to meet the growing consumer demand for gentle personal cleaning products.
Most recently, Ashland opened a state-of-the-art technical center in Mumbai to provide formulators solutions that address the practices of India’s consumers and their demand for higher-performing formulations.
“Just as importantly, R&D experts at Ashland’s primary consumer care laboratories in Bridgewater, NJ, and Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands, bring innovative technology solutions to the world’s cleaning markets in order to address long-term trends,” said Pongonis.
Cedar Concepts is looking more toward innovation and sustainability both within its processes and its products, said Boasmond.
“To achieve these goals we’ve added process engineers, R&D chemists and additional support for our quality assurance team.”
The recent appointment of its director of sales and business development will assist Cedar in maximizing its goals in these areas.
“In addition we’ve moved personnel to our new LEED plant in the Midwest,” according to Boasmond. “This expansion will support the process improvements and new product development plans.”
Lonza has hired Dr. Christoph Kolano, Ph.D, in the role of associate director, global portfolio development for its personal care business. Based in Basel, Switzerland, he is responsible for designing and initiating the development of new products for the Lonza personal care global portfolio. Kolano has more than 12 years of expertise in value creation within the chemical industry, with a strong focus on oleochemicals, petrochemicals, surfactants and intermediates.
A member of the Association of German Chemists and the Association of Swiss Chemists, he has authored more than 25 papers in peer-reviewed journals and has been granted patents in oleochemicals and surfactants, according to Lonza.
Whether investing in plants, people or product, surfactant suppliers are committed to this growing, relatively stable market.
“Surfactants will always be a major driver even in slower economic times,” observed Keech. “Consumers always need their shampoos, body washes and hand soaps!”
Looking for a new surfactant for your household and personal care formula? Contact the suppliers directly below.
Cedar Concepts
Chicago, IL
Tel: 773-890-5790
Email: info@cedarconcepts.net
Website: www.cedarconcepts.net
Cycloteric OL, Cyclomox OL
INCI: Olivamidopropyl betaine and olivamidopropylamine oxide
Applications: personal care formulas
Use levels: 6%
Comments: These naturally derived, patent-pending products increase viscosity and conditioning properties to formulations. Olive oil assists in the suppression of DTH hormone production. DTH causes the hair follicle shaft to narrow, olive oil assists in preventing this from happening. Loaded with antioxidants, which promotes scalp health, olive oil can even reduce the damage done by hair care products or the overuse of styling products. Olive oil makes hair shiny and soft, and it has been used for centuries as a natural hair conditioner.
Cycloteroc AV, Cyclomox AV
INCI: avocadamidopropyl betaine and avocadamidopropylamine oxide
Applications: personal care formulas
Use levels: 6%
Comments: Avocado oil used topically can boost your skin’s ability to generate more and stronger cells.Vitamin E, potassium, and lecithin are the primary skin-feeding nutrients in the oil and are all easily absorbed through the epidermis and into the dermis where they provide energy for the growth and health of new skin as well as fortification of existing cells. These same nutrients are also exceptionally nourishing for your hair, improving both the appearance and structure while at the same time promoting healthier and faster growth.
Croda
New Castle, DETel: 302-429-5371
Email: homecare.us@croda.com
Website: www.crodahomecare.com
Diversaclean NC
INCI/Chemical description: Nonionic/cationic surfactant blend
Applications: A non-ionic/cationic blend for household and I&I cleaning
Use levels: 2-10%
Comments: Excellent cleaning performance on greasy soils, fast wetting, readily biodegradable
Applications: A non-ionic/cationic blend for household and I&I cleaning
Use levels: 2-10%
Comments: Excellent cleaning performance on greasy soils, fast wetting, readily biodegradable
Diversaclean CS
INCI/Chemical description: Nonionic surfactant blend
Applications:: A nonionic/APG blend that is stable in high pH systems and can be used in both I&I and consumer formulations
Use levels: 2-10% Comments:50% bio based; provides the benefits of APG with a powerful cleaning boost, fast wetting and soil removal
CrystaSense Sapphire
INCI/Chemical description: Rheology modifier
Applications: A water based rheology modifier that provides vertical surface cling in cleaning products
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Effective polymeric thickener for aqueous neutral-alkaline hard surface cleaning formulations
Galaxy Surfactants North America
Denville, NJ
Tel: 973-298-8850
Email: info@galaxy-us.com
Website: http://na.galaxysurfactants.com/
GalSoft GLI 21
INCI: Potassium cocoyl glutamate (and) sodium cocoyl isethionate
Applications: Body washes, face wash, makeup remover, shampoos
Use levels: 10-40%
Comments: GalSoft GLI 21 is an innovative, new mild surfactant capable of producing copious amounts of foam.
GalSoft SCGL
INCI: Disodium cocoyl glutamate
Applications: Body wash, face wash, makeup remover, shampoos
Use levels: 15-55%
Comments: GalSoft SCGL is intended for personal care cleansing products where a deep and gentle cleanse is desired.
GalSoft SCT
INCI: Sodium cocoyl taurate
Applications: Bodywashes, face wash, makeup remover, shampoos
Use levels: 10-35%
Comments: GalSoft SCT cleans and leaves the skin with a soft, supple feel. Based on an amino acid, GalSoft SCT cleans and moisturizes without the harshness found in other traditional primary surfactants.
Lonza Consumer Care
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonzaconsumercare.com
Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester
INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate
Applications: Personal care surfactant cleansing systems such as baby shampoos, hand washes and facial cleaners
Use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Comments: Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester is said to have better flash foam properties than many other competitive raw materials. Lonza’s research shows a three times faster foam build over the first 200 seconds in face wash and baby shampoo applications.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare/
Schercoteric C 250 Surfactant
INCI: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
Applications: Bodywashes, shampoos, hand soaps, skin cleansers, bath products
Use levels: 5-25%
Comments: Very mild amphoteric surfactant with good foam height and stability, and sensorial benefits which makes it ideal for use in personal care cleaning applications.
Chemoryl B-RSKLV Surfactant
INCI: Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Applications: Bodywashes, shampoos, hand soaps, skin cleansers, bath products
Use levels: 25-55%
Comments: Easy to use, concentrated, amide free, bio-based surfactant solution, ideal for use in cost effective alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate free body washes, hand soaps and color protection shampoos, when a rich creamy foam is desired.
Sulfochem EA-2SB Surfactant
INCI: Ammonium laureth sulfate
Applications: Bodywashes, shampoos, hand soaps, intimate cleansers, and other bath products
Use levels: 15-25%
Comments: Versatile, sodium benzoate preserved, bio-based primary surfactant for use in shampoos, mild cleansers, bath and shower products where high foam volume is desired and low pH is essential.
Rita Corporation
Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: 815-337-2500
Email: info@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com
Ritafactant SFE
INCI: Lauryl glucoside, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, sodium lauroyl lactylate Applications: Hair and skin care formulas
Use levels: 30-45%
Comments: A low cost blend composed of primary and secondary surfactants with Rita’s foam-boosting sodium lauroyl lactlyate. Contains mild surfactants. Final product claims include sulfate-free, sulfonate-free and DEA/MEA free. Versatile in clear, opaque and pearlescent systems. Cold process formulas can help streamline production efficiency.
Amitose VC series
Description: Glyceryl ascorbate series, created by the fusion of vitamin C, ascorbic acid and glycerin
Applications: skin toners, creams, gels, serums
Use levels: formula dependent
Comments: Available in basic (Amitose 2G, Amitose DGA and Amitose 3GA) and advanced (Amitose MGA, Amitose HGA and Amitose 3LGA), these materials offer various biological activity due to their vitamin C structure, including enhancement of collagen production, skin conditioning, anti-wrinkle effects and moisturizing ability.
Seppic, Inc
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-882-5597
Email: us.seppic@airliquide.com
Website: www.seppic.com
Proteol Oat PF
Description: Sodium lauroyl oat amino acids
Applications: Soft surfactant which offers stable and rich foam. This sulfate-free amino acids-derived is a gentle cleansing agent perfect to obtain dense and abundant foam while maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier.
Use levels: 1-10%
Stepan Company
Northfield, IL
Tel: (800) 745-7837
Email: techserv@stepan.com
Website: www.stepan.com
Ninol CAA
INCI: Dimethyl lauramide/myristamide
Applications: Shampoo, body wash, liquid soap (hand and dish), facial cleanser, bubble bath, deodorants
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Maximize performance and minimize components with Ninol CAA, a novel, naturally-derived aesthetics enhancer and fragrance solubilizer. Ninol CAA enables the solubilization of fragrances and dissolves various organic materials at room temperature due to a large Hansen Solubility sphere, while still demonstrating excellent viscosity and foaming performance. At reduced use levels, this DEA-free, multifunctional nonionic surfactant provides superior viscosity building performance and comparable foam stabilization to traditional amides and betaines. Utilizing Ninol CAA as a fragrance solubilizer, viscosity builder and foam stabilizer can reduce complexity and the number of components in the finished formulation.