Melissa Meisel, Senior Editor12.01.22
Philip Pelusi. The frequent Happi.com contributor observed that for Winter 2022/2023, hairstyles exude a “winter weather nonconformity.”
From a 70s shag haircut reinvention to an unconventional bronze brunette hair color, beauty formulators and marketers are mixing up “seasonal solutions in the form of equally revolutionary ingredients to tackle winter nemeses hat hair, dry scalp, static electricity and more,” he said.
Additionally, today’s hair care products must cater to more salon styling. Consumers want blowout services more often than they did a year ago, according to the recent release of first-quarter findings from Kline Pro: Salon Retail Products and Database. The report showed that the number of salon blowouts is up 36% in the US and 46% in Canada.
“Naturally, as clients want to replicate the volume achieved by their stylists at home, volumizing products increased by an average of nearly 12% across both countries,” said Paula Gottdiner, project manager, consumer products, Kline. “Texturizing is also picking up, increasing almost 3% compared to the first quarter of last year.”
Last year, hair serum sales increased nearly 23%. In comparison, styling aid serum sales increased 13%, according to Kline Pro USA data. This trend continued in 2022 as consumers expand their hair care routine with products inspired by skin care.
Mass market shampoo sales soared 4.8% to $3.6 billion while conditioners increased 1.1% to $2.5 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2022. Hair coloring sales climbed 2.8% to $1.6 billion while hair accessories rose 1.2% to $1.6 billion. Hair growth products jumped 2.3% to $120.8 million but home permanent/relaxer kits dipped 9% to $40.7 million.
For a deeper look into the categories from IRI, click here.
“For hair care, we’re seeing consumers go beyond the basics,” Nathalie Gerschtein, president, Consumer Products Division, North America for L’Oréal, told Happi. “There have been upticks in interest in scalp care and hair oils that we expect to continue in 2023.”
“Strong, healthy and shiny hair is the goal,” he said.
While Stenson handles operations, he is no stranger to beauty products. The Chicago-based, award-winning celebrity stylist is also a longstanding partner with L’Oréal USA as an educator, brand ambassador and influencer. He keeps up with the latest hair care trends and shares his expertise with the beauty community. His latest project is his biggest yet—a new hair care line available online at Ulta Beauty and in stores in early 2023.
The new Nick Stenson Beauty range includes a Volume Shampoo and Volume Conditioner; Moisture Shampoo and Moisture Conditioner; Root Lifter Spray; Smoothing Crème; Hydrating Oil; Leave-in Conditioner; Volume Crème; Light Hold Hair Spray and Texture Spray; and Dry Shampoo. The collection of moisture-rich and volumizing hair care products were formulated to “heal, hydrate and strengthen all hair types with quality ingredients,” according to Stenson.
Concurrently, indie beauty brand K18 has been making headlines; according to the Kline Pro US database, with sales more than doubling in 2021. While it appears that the indie brand came out of nowhere, a decade of research went into discovering its patented K18Peptide. Said to reach the core of hair’s keratin or polypeptide chains and reconnect the broken ones, K18Peptide effectively restore more than 90% of hair’s strength and elasticity. At press time, K18 expanded its distribution into professional retailer SalonCentric.
K18’s newest product is its Peptide Prep Pro, a no-mix, spray-on demineralizing salon treatment that works to effectively reduce seven of the most common types of metals and minerals in four minutes, according to the company. It contains ingredients like activated charcoal and salicylic acid to gently remove buildup without stripping hair.
“One of the top trends we’re seeing in hair care right now is detoxifying products that can remove buildup without sacrificing color integrity,” Casey Yee, stylist and senior director of global education at K18, told Happi. “Adding a color-safe detox shampoo to the hair care routine helps create a clean canvas so color and chemical services, treatments and styling products work more effectively.”
Meanwhile, beauty brand DefenAge Skincare has expanded into the hair care category. Its first hair-centric product is the 150K Hair Follicle Serum, which contains a concentrate of DefenAge’s proprietary Age-Repair Defensins. Defensin-molecules promise to stimulate the skin’s latent master cells and spark a targeted, regenerative response.
The light, water-based formula is also infused with 48 revitalizing ingredients that DefenAge says are shown to have clinical efficacy on the scalp and hair, including the natural flavonoid Apigenin, azalea flower-isolated yeast extract and organic pea sprouts extract. The formula is hormone-free.
Rejuvenation-inspired, the 150K Hair Follicle Serum is designed for both men and women to revitalize the scalp and skin under the hair. The human scalp contains up to 150,000 hair follicles, and DefenAge 150K Hair Follicle Serum ensures that each and every one of those follicles functions optimally, according to the brand. The proprietary technology keeps the skin fresh and healthy, providing an ideal environment for hair follicles to flourish.
The serum helps reduce visible signs of hair loss, promotes the immunity of the scalp and nourishes follicle nutrition support to encourage healthy hair. Applied directly to the scalp via a special vial that protects product integrity and prevents waste, the serum aims to re-establish the visible quality of the hair and preserve natural pigmentation, mitigating gray hairs.
“During initial testing, we also found that the serum provides remarkable benefits if applied on the skin under the beard,” said DefenAge CEO Nikolay Turovets. “We saw that the skin under the beard becomes visibly smoother and more evenly toned, and the appearance of inflammation and itchiness is reduced.”
Touted as a savior of colored and chemically treated hair, new Coco & Eve Bond-Building Pre-Shampoo Treatment takes bond repair to the next level to dramatically reduce damage. The formula combines an advanced bond-building polymer with strengthening and lipid-replenishing avocado and coconut oils that work from within to holistically repair weak, dry and damaged hair.
This vegan formula also includes three rebuilding bonds that help repair the hair: disulphide, ionic and hydrogen bonds. According to Coco & Eve, disulfide bonds are one of the stronger and more permanent bonds in hair that gives hair its strength and shape. Heat and chemical treatments can break these bonds. Salt/ionic bonds are temporary and weak bonds that can be broken when hair is wet, there is humidity in the air or pH imbalance by the use of hair products. Finally, hydrogen bonds are temporary but strong bonds that can be broken by water, humidity and heat. They are responsible for hair strength and elasticity.
New from Monat this month is Monat IR Clinical, a three-part regimen said to reduce hair fall, according to the Happi Top 50 company. The collection introduces bakuchiol for anti-inflammatory benefits, caffeine for UV protection and melatonin known to reduce hair thinning DHT. The line is for all hair types and textures.
At the core of the IR Clinical collection is a non-greasy serum that immediately reduces breakage and produces thicker, fuller-looking hair in 60 days, said the company. Clinical studies found 92% less hair fall, and eight of 10 consumers said the product helped improve hair growth. The line also includes a thickening shampoo and conditioner.
Actress Jennifer Aniston’s vegan and cruelty-free hair care brand, LolaVie, added a restorative shampoo and conditioner duo. Since its launch last year, shampoo and conditioner have been the most requested products. Like the rest of the collection, the products are made with bamboo essence, creating less waste and conserving water, said the company.
Formulated with LolaVie Bond, the brand’s proprietary technology harnesses the power of chia seeds to repair existing damage while also protecting the hair from future damage. Other ingredients include upcycled jackfruit and orange pulp, coconut alkanes, superfruit conditioning and vegan keratin complexes, bamboo essence and the all-new LolaVie Healthy Volume Complex. Like all LolaVie products, the conditioner is vegan, cruelty-free, color-safe, suitable for all hair types and features the brand’s signature scent.
Inspired by traditional beauty treatments for hair, this weightless conditioning and nourishing rinse softens strands by closing damaged cuticles, detangles, adds shine and prevents frizz, said the company.
Two new Nexxus innovations recently rolled out exclusively on Amazon.com. Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream and Humectress 360° Perfector Spray are the latest innovations from the Nexxus portfolio to achieve salon-quality hair results, said the company.
The Nexxus Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream is a reparative fiber bonding product that repairs and prevents split ends, provides heat protection, reduces unwanted frizz and speeds up blow dry time.
Unique bonding technology strengthens hair, leaving it shiny, soft and healthier looking, said the company. Meanwhile, the Nexxus Humectress 360° Perfector Spray is a leave-in multi-benefit treatment.
Redken is also growing its hair care portfolio with new All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, the All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment moisturizes hair and locks in hydration, said Redken. It also serves as a heat, static and humidity protectant.
Bumble and Bumble is introducing a deep conditioning mask to its best-selling Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich Collection. The moisturizing treatment is infused with “skin care-grade” biomimetic hyaluronic acid and kalahari melon seed oil, according to the company. It also includes Bumble and Bumble’s signature six-oil blend of coconut, argan, grapeseed, macadamia nut, sweet almond and safflower seed oils. The color-safe mask is formulated for all hair types and textures that nourishes from scalp to ends, according to the Estée Lauder-owned brand.
Kenra Professional, a Henkel brand, launched AllCurl. This range was created to help all curls achieve their styles every day, while broadening awareness and extending education around styling all curl types, said the company.
“Too often curl products are focused on delineating specific patterns and textures when the reality is most curly people have a variety of patterns and textures, which holistically shape their style identity. Instead of isolating one type or texture, AllCurl asks the simple question ‘what style do you want today,’ allowing style customization by combining the correct product and benefit, mixed with education around technique,” said Matt Lowenthal, vice president of marketing, Kenra, Henkel.
AllCurl features a range of products with different levels of key styling benefits and ingredients to help users craft their ideal curl style.
Christin Brown, a Kenra Professional artistic ambassador and stylist specializing in curly hair, said AllCurl will benefit not only her clients, but herself as well.
“As a curl connoisseur both personally and professionally, I am so excited to use these products. As a stylist, I’m consistently impressed by the efficacy of Kenra Professional products and AllCurl is no different. This range offers a variety of products that were previously missing from my product portfolio, addressing all unique needs textured hair requires to achieve a person’s preferred, bespoke curl. This collection is super versatile and truly customizable, which is a stylist’s dream,” she said.
Continuing to grow in offering hair care for all consumers, Matrix introduced its newest permanent color system, Coil Color. An ammonia-free color formulated with 60% oil—including coconut oil—the product was designed to preserve curl definition during coloring services. With natural hair clients in mind, Matrix has completed its Curl Preserving Portfolio. Stylists now have the complete color and care system needed to serve their clients as Coil Color complements the Matrix A Curl Can Dream system to maintain moisture and definition.
Gerschtein of L’Oréal told Happi that the “next big thing” in beauty is all about tech and innovation.
“For example, virtual and augmented reality is changing the game when it comes to being able to shop for and try on products from home,” she said. “We invested in a tool called Modiface, which brings the live shopping experience home with virtual makeup try-ons, virtual hair color try-ons and touchless samples, enabling us to create immersive consumer experiences no matter where they are.”
Market research firm Spate predicts the growth of scalp cleansers and hair loss foams in hair care for the next year, as based on current consumer demand.
According to Spate, scalp cleanser searches reflect increased consumer interest in scalp care as a trend. On average, there are 8.9K searches every month for scalp cleanser in the US. Although low volume relative to other hair care products, it’s grown 14.1% in the past year. The category has two leaders—Aveda and Nioxin, according to Spate.
The increased focus on scalp care has undoubtedly been accelerated by the skinification of the hair care industry as more consumers relate healthy hair with a healthy scalp, added Spate in its findings. With demand rising for dry shampoo and hair mousse, brands should consider ways to educate consumers on proper scalp cleansing following a no-wash period or a day of extreme styling, said Spate.
At press time, John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) announced an expansion of its Paul Mitchell’s Clean Beauty line that includes shampoo, conditioner and Therapy Drops. Together, they enable stylists to create a hair care routine that addresses their client’s scalp concerns—including dandruff and oil control, said the company.
The formulas feature nourishing grapevine sap to improve the appearance of scalp and hair, and an antioxidant-rich chamomile extract to help soothe. Products are infused with zinc to rebalance sebum production while strengthening and nourishing strands. The line can be used on all hair types, especially dry, oily and sensitive scalps.
Zotos Professional unveiled its first microbiome-friendly certified product line with the relaunch of Biotera. According to the company, Zotos Professional spent years redeveloping Biotera’s portfolio, ensuring that each certified product is considerate of scalp microbiome diversity.
The new Ultra Color Care and Ultra Moisturizing sulfate-free collections contain scalp-friendly formulas, made with a pre- and post-biotic blend plus a signature beauty boosting botanical. All Biotera formulas are vegan and PETA approved.
Consumers are also turning to hair loss foam to help treat hair loss and grow fuller hair. There are 10.9K searches on average every month in the US for hair loss foam, which is a medium volume relative to other hair product searches. It has grown 49.1% in searches since last year with two market leaders—Rogaine and Kirkland, noted Spate.
Cost and convenience are top-of-mind when consumers shop for hair loss foam. They’re searching for hair loss foams at accessible retailers like Walmart, Costco, CVS and Target.
Searches for “how to apply” indicate a lack of familiarity with this format. Brands with existing hair loss foam products, or brands planning to release hair loss foam, should focus their marketing materials on making their products easy for consumers to use, according to Spate.
Yee of K18 predicts that in 2023, the beauty industry will continue to see an uptick of products that produce less waste like concentrates, shampoo bars and sustainable packaging. Formulas that are safe for the scalp’s microbiome will trend higher too, he told Happi.
Stenson, a second-generation hair stylist who has built his career and life catering to consumer beauty needs, told Happi that for 2023, it will be all about customization and the continuation of exploring sustainability and natural components in creating hair care.
“While healthy hair is the renewed standard, in 2023 we will continue to see a focus on removing the unnecessary ingredients from products to simplify them as well as a continued move toward environmentally conscious packaging,” he told Happi. “Versatility in products will continue to be a focus as well.”
After two years of pandemic-born style suppression, beauty consumers are breaking free with a “rebellious sensibility” for hair care this season, according to industry expert From a 70s shag haircut reinvention to an unconventional bronze brunette hair color, beauty formulators and marketers are mixing up “seasonal solutions in the form of equally revolutionary ingredients to tackle winter nemeses hat hair, dry scalp, static electricity and more,” he said.
Additionally, today’s hair care products must cater to more salon styling. Consumers want blowout services more often than they did a year ago, according to the recent release of first-quarter findings from Kline Pro: Salon Retail Products and Database. The report showed that the number of salon blowouts is up 36% in the US and 46% in Canada.
“Naturally, as clients want to replicate the volume achieved by their stylists at home, volumizing products increased by an average of nearly 12% across both countries,” said Paula Gottdiner, project manager, consumer products, Kline. “Texturizing is also picking up, increasing almost 3% compared to the first quarter of last year.”
Last year, hair serum sales increased nearly 23%. In comparison, styling aid serum sales increased 13%, according to Kline Pro USA data. This trend continued in 2022 as consumers expand their hair care routine with products inspired by skin care.
Mass market shampoo sales soared 4.8% to $3.6 billion while conditioners increased 1.1% to $2.5 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2022. Hair coloring sales climbed 2.8% to $1.6 billion while hair accessories rose 1.2% to $1.6 billion. Hair growth products jumped 2.3% to $120.8 million but home permanent/relaxer kits dipped 9% to $40.7 million.
For a deeper look into the categories from IRI, click here.
“For hair care, we’re seeing consumers go beyond the basics,” Nathalie Gerschtein, president, Consumer Products Division, North America for L’Oréal, told Happi. “There have been upticks in interest in scalp care and hair oils that we expect to continue in 2023.”
Strength Training
The major trends in hair care products now are based around “encouraging and repairing” the health and strength of hair, said Nick Stenson, senior vice president, store and services operations for Ulta Beauty, Chicago.“Strong, healthy and shiny hair is the goal,” he said.
While Stenson handles operations, he is no stranger to beauty products. The Chicago-based, award-winning celebrity stylist is also a longstanding partner with L’Oréal USA as an educator, brand ambassador and influencer. He keeps up with the latest hair care trends and shares his expertise with the beauty community. His latest project is his biggest yet—a new hair care line available online at Ulta Beauty and in stores in early 2023.
The new Nick Stenson Beauty range includes a Volume Shampoo and Volume Conditioner; Moisture Shampoo and Moisture Conditioner; Root Lifter Spray; Smoothing Crème; Hydrating Oil; Leave-in Conditioner; Volume Crème; Light Hold Hair Spray and Texture Spray; and Dry Shampoo. The collection of moisture-rich and volumizing hair care products were formulated to “heal, hydrate and strengthen all hair types with quality ingredients,” according to Stenson.
Concurrently, indie beauty brand K18 has been making headlines; according to the Kline Pro US database, with sales more than doubling in 2021. While it appears that the indie brand came out of nowhere, a decade of research went into discovering its patented K18Peptide. Said to reach the core of hair’s keratin or polypeptide chains and reconnect the broken ones, K18Peptide effectively restore more than 90% of hair’s strength and elasticity. At press time, K18 expanded its distribution into professional retailer SalonCentric.
K18’s newest product is its Peptide Prep Pro, a no-mix, spray-on demineralizing salon treatment that works to effectively reduce seven of the most common types of metals and minerals in four minutes, according to the company. It contains ingredients like activated charcoal and salicylic acid to gently remove buildup without stripping hair.
“One of the top trends we’re seeing in hair care right now is detoxifying products that can remove buildup without sacrificing color integrity,” Casey Yee, stylist and senior director of global education at K18, told Happi. “Adding a color-safe detox shampoo to the hair care routine helps create a clean canvas so color and chemical services, treatments and styling products work more effectively.”
Meanwhile, beauty brand DefenAge Skincare has expanded into the hair care category. Its first hair-centric product is the 150K Hair Follicle Serum, which contains a concentrate of DefenAge’s proprietary Age-Repair Defensins. Defensin-molecules promise to stimulate the skin’s latent master cells and spark a targeted, regenerative response.
The light, water-based formula is also infused with 48 revitalizing ingredients that DefenAge says are shown to have clinical efficacy on the scalp and hair, including the natural flavonoid Apigenin, azalea flower-isolated yeast extract and organic pea sprouts extract. The formula is hormone-free.
Rejuvenation-inspired, the 150K Hair Follicle Serum is designed for both men and women to revitalize the scalp and skin under the hair. The human scalp contains up to 150,000 hair follicles, and DefenAge 150K Hair Follicle Serum ensures that each and every one of those follicles functions optimally, according to the brand. The proprietary technology keeps the skin fresh and healthy, providing an ideal environment for hair follicles to flourish.
The serum helps reduce visible signs of hair loss, promotes the immunity of the scalp and nourishes follicle nutrition support to encourage healthy hair. Applied directly to the scalp via a special vial that protects product integrity and prevents waste, the serum aims to re-establish the visible quality of the hair and preserve natural pigmentation, mitigating gray hairs.
“During initial testing, we also found that the serum provides remarkable benefits if applied on the skin under the beard,” said DefenAge CEO Nikolay Turovets. “We saw that the skin under the beard becomes visibly smoother and more evenly toned, and the appearance of inflammation and itchiness is reduced.”
Touted as a savior of colored and chemically treated hair, new Coco & Eve Bond-Building Pre-Shampoo Treatment takes bond repair to the next level to dramatically reduce damage. The formula combines an advanced bond-building polymer with strengthening and lipid-replenishing avocado and coconut oils that work from within to holistically repair weak, dry and damaged hair.
This vegan formula also includes three rebuilding bonds that help repair the hair: disulphide, ionic and hydrogen bonds. According to Coco & Eve, disulfide bonds are one of the stronger and more permanent bonds in hair that gives hair its strength and shape. Heat and chemical treatments can break these bonds. Salt/ionic bonds are temporary and weak bonds that can be broken when hair is wet, there is humidity in the air or pH imbalance by the use of hair products. Finally, hydrogen bonds are temporary but strong bonds that can be broken by water, humidity and heat. They are responsible for hair strength and elasticity.
New from Monat this month is Monat IR Clinical, a three-part regimen said to reduce hair fall, according to the Happi Top 50 company. The collection introduces bakuchiol for anti-inflammatory benefits, caffeine for UV protection and melatonin known to reduce hair thinning DHT. The line is for all hair types and textures.
At the core of the IR Clinical collection is a non-greasy serum that immediately reduces breakage and produces thicker, fuller-looking hair in 60 days, said the company. Clinical studies found 92% less hair fall, and eight of 10 consumers said the product helped improve hair growth. The line also includes a thickening shampoo and conditioner.
Actress Jennifer Aniston’s vegan and cruelty-free hair care brand, LolaVie, added a restorative shampoo and conditioner duo. Since its launch last year, shampoo and conditioner have been the most requested products. Like the rest of the collection, the products are made with bamboo essence, creating less waste and conserving water, said the company.
Formulated with LolaVie Bond, the brand’s proprietary technology harnesses the power of chia seeds to repair existing damage while also protecting the hair from future damage. Other ingredients include upcycled jackfruit and orange pulp, coconut alkanes, superfruit conditioning and vegan keratin complexes, bamboo essence and the all-new LolaVie Healthy Volume Complex. Like all LolaVie products, the conditioner is vegan, cruelty-free, color-safe, suitable for all hair types and features the brand’s signature scent.
Line Expansions
Some hair care brands are refreshing popular products for the season or expanding best-sellers. For example, R+Co expanded its Lost Treasure range with an Apple Cider Vinegar Conditioner, a partner to its popular Lost Treasure Apple Cider Vinegar Cleansing Rinse (formerly known as Acid Wash).Inspired by traditional beauty treatments for hair, this weightless conditioning and nourishing rinse softens strands by closing damaged cuticles, detangles, adds shine and prevents frizz, said the company.
Two new Nexxus innovations recently rolled out exclusively on Amazon.com. Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream and Humectress 360° Perfector Spray are the latest innovations from the Nexxus portfolio to achieve salon-quality hair results, said the company.
The Nexxus Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream is a reparative fiber bonding product that repairs and prevents split ends, provides heat protection, reduces unwanted frizz and speeds up blow dry time.
Unique bonding technology strengthens hair, leaving it shiny, soft and healthier looking, said the company. Meanwhile, the Nexxus Humectress 360° Perfector Spray is a leave-in multi-benefit treatment.
Redken is also growing its hair care portfolio with new All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, the All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment moisturizes hair and locks in hydration, said Redken. It also serves as a heat, static and humidity protectant.
Bumble and Bumble is introducing a deep conditioning mask to its best-selling Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich Collection. The moisturizing treatment is infused with “skin care-grade” biomimetic hyaluronic acid and kalahari melon seed oil, according to the company. It also includes Bumble and Bumble’s signature six-oil blend of coconut, argan, grapeseed, macadamia nut, sweet almond and safflower seed oils. The color-safe mask is formulated for all hair types and textures that nourishes from scalp to ends, according to the Estée Lauder-owned brand.
Curls & Textured Tresses
Targeting consumers with curly, coily, wavy and tight textures, salon brand Keratin Complex has launched its new leave-in conditioner specifically designed for all kinds of curl patterns. The new KCTexture line is starting off with the Keratin Complex KCTexture Leave-In Conditioner. It features a proprietary blend of signature keratin, coconut and watermelon seed oils as well as soy and barley proteins. Check out the model on the cover after using this product.Kenra Professional, a Henkel brand, launched AllCurl. This range was created to help all curls achieve their styles every day, while broadening awareness and extending education around styling all curl types, said the company.
“Too often curl products are focused on delineating specific patterns and textures when the reality is most curly people have a variety of patterns and textures, which holistically shape their style identity. Instead of isolating one type or texture, AllCurl asks the simple question ‘what style do you want today,’ allowing style customization by combining the correct product and benefit, mixed with education around technique,” said Matt Lowenthal, vice president of marketing, Kenra, Henkel.
AllCurl features a range of products with different levels of key styling benefits and ingredients to help users craft their ideal curl style.
Christin Brown, a Kenra Professional artistic ambassador and stylist specializing in curly hair, said AllCurl will benefit not only her clients, but herself as well.
“As a curl connoisseur both personally and professionally, I am so excited to use these products. As a stylist, I’m consistently impressed by the efficacy of Kenra Professional products and AllCurl is no different. This range offers a variety of products that were previously missing from my product portfolio, addressing all unique needs textured hair requires to achieve a person’s preferred, bespoke curl. This collection is super versatile and truly customizable, which is a stylist’s dream,” she said.
Continuing to grow in offering hair care for all consumers, Matrix introduced its newest permanent color system, Coil Color. An ammonia-free color formulated with 60% oil—including coconut oil—the product was designed to preserve curl definition during coloring services. With natural hair clients in mind, Matrix has completed its Curl Preserving Portfolio. Stylists now have the complete color and care system needed to serve their clients as Coil Color complements the Matrix A Curl Can Dream system to maintain moisture and definition.
Around the Bend
The emergence of independent stylists as a growth channel has opened the door for untapped revenue potential for salon hair care brands, according to Kline. Globally, the number of hair salons has declined almost 5% from 2019 levels. Now, many unemployed stylists offer hair-related services. In the US, the number of independent hair stylists is well above half a million and growing. Their collective spend on professional hair care products is more than $2 billion—making them an attractive target for professional hair care brands.Gerschtein of L’Oréal told Happi that the “next big thing” in beauty is all about tech and innovation.
“For example, virtual and augmented reality is changing the game when it comes to being able to shop for and try on products from home,” she said. “We invested in a tool called Modiface, which brings the live shopping experience home with virtual makeup try-ons, virtual hair color try-ons and touchless samples, enabling us to create immersive consumer experiences no matter where they are.”
Market research firm Spate predicts the growth of scalp cleansers and hair loss foams in hair care for the next year, as based on current consumer demand.
According to Spate, scalp cleanser searches reflect increased consumer interest in scalp care as a trend. On average, there are 8.9K searches every month for scalp cleanser in the US. Although low volume relative to other hair care products, it’s grown 14.1% in the past year. The category has two leaders—Aveda and Nioxin, according to Spate.
The increased focus on scalp care has undoubtedly been accelerated by the skinification of the hair care industry as more consumers relate healthy hair with a healthy scalp, added Spate in its findings. With demand rising for dry shampoo and hair mousse, brands should consider ways to educate consumers on proper scalp cleansing following a no-wash period or a day of extreme styling, said Spate.
At press time, John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) announced an expansion of its Paul Mitchell’s Clean Beauty line that includes shampoo, conditioner and Therapy Drops. Together, they enable stylists to create a hair care routine that addresses their client’s scalp concerns—including dandruff and oil control, said the company.
The formulas feature nourishing grapevine sap to improve the appearance of scalp and hair, and an antioxidant-rich chamomile extract to help soothe. Products are infused with zinc to rebalance sebum production while strengthening and nourishing strands. The line can be used on all hair types, especially dry, oily and sensitive scalps.
Zotos Professional unveiled its first microbiome-friendly certified product line with the relaunch of Biotera. According to the company, Zotos Professional spent years redeveloping Biotera’s portfolio, ensuring that each certified product is considerate of scalp microbiome diversity.
The new Ultra Color Care and Ultra Moisturizing sulfate-free collections contain scalp-friendly formulas, made with a pre- and post-biotic blend plus a signature beauty boosting botanical. All Biotera formulas are vegan and PETA approved.
Consumers are also turning to hair loss foam to help treat hair loss and grow fuller hair. There are 10.9K searches on average every month in the US for hair loss foam, which is a medium volume relative to other hair product searches. It has grown 49.1% in searches since last year with two market leaders—Rogaine and Kirkland, noted Spate.
Cost and convenience are top-of-mind when consumers shop for hair loss foam. They’re searching for hair loss foams at accessible retailers like Walmart, Costco, CVS and Target.
Searches for “how to apply” indicate a lack of familiarity with this format. Brands with existing hair loss foam products, or brands planning to release hair loss foam, should focus their marketing materials on making their products easy for consumers to use, according to Spate.
Yee of K18 predicts that in 2023, the beauty industry will continue to see an uptick of products that produce less waste like concentrates, shampoo bars and sustainable packaging. Formulas that are safe for the scalp’s microbiome will trend higher too, he told Happi.
Stenson, a second-generation hair stylist who has built his career and life catering to consumer beauty needs, told Happi that for 2023, it will be all about customization and the continuation of exploring sustainability and natural components in creating hair care.
“While healthy hair is the renewed standard, in 2023 we will continue to see a focus on removing the unnecessary ingredients from products to simplify them as well as a continued move toward environmentally conscious packaging,” he told Happi. “Versatility in products will continue to be a focus as well.”
Leading beauty brands, including Unilever and L’Oréal, are harnessing both natural ingredients and sustainable packaging to upgrade their haircare offerings to meet the growing needs of the clean beauty consumer. For example, Biolage Professional relaunched with 100% recycled packaging and vegan and cruelty-free certified formulas. The haircare brand is doubling down on its commitments to the planet with a Leaping Bunny Certification from Cruelty Free International, vegan formulas and signature bottles in new 100% recycled plastic packaging. Biolage’s white signature bottles which are now made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic, save more than 30 tons of virgin plastic every year, according to the company. The entire Biolage portfolio will feature the iconic Biolage AromaScience fragrance, made of a unique blend of fruits, flowers and spices. “We are so excited to finally announce this brand renovation,” said Assistant Vice President of Biolage Professional Aurelie Croze. “We’ve been working tirelessly to revamp our brand’s look and feel and to meet consumers’ needs in wanting vegan, cruelty-free and sustainable beauty products. Receiving a Leaping Bunny certification from Cruelty Free International, one of the premier organizations leading the charge against animal testing throughout the supply chain, is such a proud moment for the brand. We can’t wait for the new era of Biolage Professional,” Croze added. And, the new Garnier Whole Blends Sulfate Free Remedy Red Rose Extract & Shine Vinegar Blend Shampoo & Conditioner is formulated with “sustainably sourced ingredients” that are free of sulfates, parabens, mineral oil, petrolatum, dyes and gluten. Products are packaged in 100% PCR materials, excluding the cap and pump, according to the company. At Unilever, the Love Beauty and Planet personal care line added the Luscious Collection. Natural vegan ingredients in the formulations include aloe, avocado and mango while the packaging is reusable aluminum bottles with refill bottles made from 100% recycled plastic. Also new from Love Beauty and Planet is the Pure Nourish Collection. This new collection is powered by 100% natural oil actives like moringa oil and coconut oil, according to brand. |