ELC Skin and Hair Biology Research: Society for Investigative Dermatology

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. presented a range of findings at the 83^rd Society for Investigative Dermatology meeting, which was held this month in Chicago.

“The Estée Lauder Companies remains at the forefront of skin and hair research, advancing our understanding of the biological mechanisms that influence skin and scalp health,” said Claude Saliou, PhD, senior vice president, advanced technologies and global consumer and clinical sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies. “The findings presented reflect our continued focus on translating rigorous scientific research into transformative innovation with consumer-centric benefits.”

Here is a look at the company’s activities at the SID meeting:

• Potent plant exosome helps reduce inflammation and restore skin homeostasis
  Kelly Dong, Principal Scientist, Advanced Technologies, The Estée Lauder Companies.

Emerging evidence suggests that intercellular communication mechanisms, including exosome-mediated signaling, play a key role in coordinating skin recovery by facilitating rapid cellular communication and modulation of inflammatory pathways. Plant-derived exosomes represent a scientifically robust alternative to human exosomes, sharing key characteristics while offering advantages in scalability, stability, and sourcing for topical skin research. Reconstructed skin models were exposed to different stressors and then treated with a plant-derived exosome ingredient. Treatment significantly reduced inflammatory markers, supporting a role for plant-derived exosomes in promoting recovery and restoring skin homeostasis.

• A comparative study of the effects of a proprietary collagen boosting complex and retinol on collagen I expression level using ex vivo skin
  Binwei Deng, Fellow, Advanced Technologies, The Estée Lauder Companies

The aim of this study is to evaluate the activity of a proprietary collagen boosting complex on the expression of collagen I and tissue viability on ex-vivo skin compared to retinol. The study showed a proprietary collagen boosting complex is more potent than retinol in improving collagen production and preserving the tissue viability decreased by UV irradiation.

• Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing serum demonstrates efficacy in addressing rosacea, eczema, and extreme sensitive skin
  Lisa DiNatale, Director, Clinical Testing (Skincare), La Mer Max Huber Research Laboratories

According to ELC, the study showed the macrocystis pyrifera ferment supports skin barrier repair and improves hydration, confirmed by reduced trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

The ferment also modulates neuroinflammatory pathways via preservation of paracannabinoid signaling (LEA). It clinically reduces erythema, dryness, itching, and improves overall skin tolerability. The ferment demonstrates efficacy in sensitive, rosacea- and eczema-prone skin, including extreme sensitivity.

• Drivers of female scalp aging: profiling dermal fibroblasts to identify their potential role in hair follicle longevity—Richard Baker, Research Assistant at Centre for Skin Sciences, University of Bradford

According to Lauder, aging scalp fibroblasts show distinct molecular profiles, with clear “young” vs. “aged” subpopulations. Age-related shifts include increased inflammation, fibrosis, senescence, and reduced metabolic activity. Altered signaling pathways (e.g., ECM dysfunction, angiogenesis, apoptosis) impair follicle cycling and tissue remodeling. Aged fibroblasts may shorten the hair growth cycle and contribute to hair thinning and reduced hair longevity.

• How does skin sensitivity and age impact cowhage-induced itchiness: An observational study
  Qihong Zhang, Principal Scientist, Global Clinical and Consumer Sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies
  

Nearly all participants (92%) experienced itch from cowhage – a plant-based itch model commonly used in research to trigger non-histaminergic itch responses – but individuals with self-identified sensitive skin showed stronger and longer-lasting itch responses. The gap in itch intensity and duration between sensitive and non-sensitive skin becomes more pronounced with age, indicating older individuals may be more reactive to non-histaminergic itch triggers.

The study, according to ELC, supports using validated measures (BoSS questionnaire and VAS scales) to more precisely segment sensitive skin populations—helping improve subject selection and product testing.

• Skin health during perimenopause
  Paolo Palacio Mancheno, Pincipal Scientist, Global Clinical and Consumer Sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies

Perimenopause symptom severity is linked to poorer sleep, not higher stress, and sleep disruption appears to be a key factor during this transition independent of age. Women with more severe perimenopause symptoms show changes in skin hydration and barrier function, suggesting early shifts in skin biology before typical menopausal dryness. Perimenopause alters how skin ages, highlighting a unique window for targeted skincare solutions distinct from pre- and post-menopausal needs.

The next SID meeting is May 12-15 in Orlando.