Following the familiar In-Cosmetics’ format, visitors could attend presentations during the event, including Formulation Lab, a 100% functional laboratory where the participants were able to create in practice, innovative formulations using raw materials from companies such as Croda, Chemyunion, Gattefossé, Kobo Brazil, Dow Chemical, Dow Corning and Lipoid Kosmetik. Visitors could also participate in innovation seminars and sensory workshops, and visit a new sensory bar, another novelty of the exhibition that allowed the sensory activation of active ingredients in products, creating a real demonstration of the effects and benefits.
Topics & Solutions
The impact that pollution and stress have on skin and overall health were two of the primary topics presented during In-Cosmetics. To combat these negative forces, suppliers promoted an array of natural ingredients. Aqia Química Industrial, for instance, promoted Bio.Acetum, a line of beauty vinegars in apple, balsamic and acidic fruits versions. Bio.Acetum is said to be rich in organic acids (AHAs), antioxidants and other vegetable bioactives.
At Ajinomoto’s stand, visitors inspected formulations with food textures and tropical themes such as lemon caipirinha, an antiseptic gel with vitamin E; taperebá beer, a hair, body and beard foam; and cerrado chocolate, a solid skin moisturizer.
A leading provider of natural ingredients sourced from the Brazilian biodiversity, Beraca took inspiration from a strong and ever-growing consumer trend: the quest for youthful, healthy-looking skin. Beraca’s new bacuri butter promises to revitalize mature skin. It is said to be a highly nourishing ingredient that increases energy production at the cellular level and delivers deep skin hydration. Rich in minerals such as magnesium, zinc, calcium, and vitamins D2, E and K, the butter is also a source of tryptophan amino acid; which, in the presence of light, is metabolized into biologically active compounds such as serotonin. According to Beraca, bacuri butter plays an important role in the social and economic development of the Amazon region. The ingredient is sourced from local communities that already used the bacuri pulp for the production of sweets, ice creams and juices, but discarded the seeds. By identifying the potential of the butter extracted from the bacuri seeds for the cosmetic industry, Beraca empowered the communities to turn waste into an income stream.
What’s New in Hair Care?
Brazilians love their hair and they’re willing to try new products to improve their locks. According to a Mintel survey, while the market share of cleansing conditioners in Brazil was only 4.9% in 2015, 40% of Brazilians said they were interested in buying these products. To meet this growing interest, Rhodia rolled out new formulation ideas for co-wash products or cleansing conditioners. The product originally debuted during In-Cosmetics Paris. According to Rhodia, it is the first commercial hair care product from the company’s development center for conditioning agents, which the company recently installed in the Research and Innovation Center in São Paulo.
Croda presented new studies showing the benefits of KeraDyn HH, a non-quaternized conditioning agent designed to restore damaged hair. It is said to provide excellent conditioning properties for different hair types by reducing the friction between fibers and improving their alignment. KeraDyn HH has shown, through tests developed together with the Visual Computing Center at the University of Bradford, that there is an improvement of damaged hair movement. According to Croda, KeraDyn HH is an effective conditioner, both as the sole conditioning agent in the system and in synergy with commonly used quaternary systems. The data also reinforces the flexibility of KeraDyn HH to meet the global trend of “minimalist” formulations with high performance. It provides the development of formulations with excellent value for money by delivering savings up to 40%.
Exhibiting for the first time since the announced acquisition of Dow Corning by Dow Chemical, the companies highlighted technologies and solutions for cosmetics that guarantee the protection of the skin against pollution beyond the prolonged hydration for body and face and improvement of texture and sensory final product. The new line of silicone film-formers is aimed at creating innovative and multifunctional formulations for makeup, skin care products and sunscreen. SW-8005 C30 resin wax and FA 4003 DM silicone acrylate provide a non-occlusive barrier effect against air pollution particles, help reduce the harmful impact of pollution on the skin and enable formulators to create comfortable, flexible cosmetics.
Demand for male-specific formulas is growing around the world, especially in Latin America. According to Euromonitor International, between 2010 and 2015, sales of men’s grooming products doubled to $60 per person in Brazil and quadrupled to $40 in Argentina.
BASF’s commitment to the men’s market was apparent when the company received the ITEHPEC Innovation Award during In-Cosmetics. According to BASF, male skin collagen density is greater than women’s skin meaning that the signs of aging in men are less obvious. However, once the first lines appear on men, they quickly become wrinkles. The award-winning Speci’Men is a 100% natural extract that targets versican protein, which is said to be essential for the viscoelastic properties of the skin. Products formulated with Speci’Men are said to improve tone, reduce signs of fatigue and the appearance of wrinkles, too.
Get to Workshops
During the marketing trends presentations, Elaine Gerchon, project manager of The Kline Group, detailed the challenges and opportunities in Brazil’s ingredients market. Three categories, emollients, surfactants and conditioning polymers, together represent 64% of the global ingredients market. While demand for skin care ingredients, specifically facial care ingredients, drives global personal care sales, in Brazil the emphasis is on hair care. Surfactants account for more than 50% of hair care ingredient sales. Consumers demand lighter, smoother, multifunctional and efficient formulations, while formulators search for more natural ingredients.
According to Kline, sales of active ingredients will top $10 billion by 2020, with an average growth of 2.8% a year. China, India and South Asia are expected to lead the way.
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. With a degree in social communication and postgraduate work in business administration, her expertise includes managing and launching products, communication planning, market studies and analysis, and identifying new business opportunities. She also has beauty blog (www.circulodabeleza.com.br), and is a makeup artist and image consultant.