Valerie George, Simply Formulas05.01.24
—Powder Perspectives
Dear Powder:
The asbestos-talc conversation is a years-old conversation, and perhaps more appropriate to say, decades-old. It has more recently popped into the news because Johnson & Johnson has been accused of causing various cancers in individuals who used J&J baby powder products over the years, which were formulated with talc.
The litigants in various lawsuits against J&J have accused J&J of not routinely testing talc for asbestos and knowingly using talc contaminated with asbestos. Asbestos can enter the lungs or inner mucosa, contributing to lung, larynx and ovarian cancers.
Since the J&J lawsuits, the FDA, in accordance with MoCRA, has been tasked with creating regulations that establish standardized testing methods for evaluating the presence of asbestos in talc. The FDA issued a proposed rule as of January 2, 2024, and additionally conducted a sampling program of various talc-containing products on the market. The results of this study determined that no asbestos could be found in the products.
As a formulator, this report and proposed rule (which is anticipated to be a final rule by August 2024) doesn’t directly impact your work on the bench, unless you’ve been instructed to remove talc from formulations. However, it indirectly impacts your work.
This is because the report (and proposed ruling) will impact the entire talc supply chain. Talc and asbestos are both mined materials, and the strata of Earth they occupy is very close to one another. Talc can be contaminated with asbestos if asbestos is accidentally retrieved from the earth while mining talc. While the onus is on the talc manufacturer to maintain a robust testing program that inspects for asbestos contamination, the purchaser of the talc and manufacturer of the finished product containing talc have a responsibility to test the finished product the talc is going into. I hate to use the annoying phrase, “Trust, but verify,” but this is a new regulation where this philosophy makes sense.
Valerie George
[email protected]
Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com