“The Fall/Winter 2018 palette continues to show designers expressing the need for individuality, ingenuity and creativity though fashion,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “As designers and consumers alike continue to transition away from cyclical trends, and instead focus on self-expressive colors that evade antiquated seasonal structure, we see very notable non-traditional choices, such as Pantone 12-0740 Limelight and Pantone 15-3520 Crocus Petal showing up in the fall/winter palette. Exploring nuances within color families and building off of them with new combinations and materials freshens and reinvents the color story.”
Shoppers are responding to the colorful cosmetic options available in both prestige and mass. According to The NPD Group, in the 12 months ending May 2018, US prestige makeup sales rose 4% to $8.2 billion. Foundation sales, the largest segment in makeup, jumped 4% to $1.7 billion while concealer sales soared 11% to $455.5 million. Eyeshadow sales increased 7% to $740.7 million. Mascara rose 9% to $588.4 million. Lipgloss sales grew 2% to $186.7 million, but lipstick slipped 4% to $646.1 million versus the previous year.
Skin care is still in with cosmetic consumers. According to recent findings from NPD’s 2018 Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report, nearly all US women using makeup, or 90%, reported using makeup with skin care benefits. The usage of these products does not appear to be replacing or cannibalizing consumers’ skin care routines, as two-thirds of women stated they use these makeup products in addition to separate skin care offering the same benefits.
“Makeup continues to perform well, as our study found that more women are using it and they are also using more products, on average, in a typical day compared to two years ago. At the same time, the consumer mindset today places greater emphasis on taking care of the skin in order to prevent flaws, rather than covering up flaws as they appear,” said Larissa Jensen, executive director, beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group. “Consumer expectations of makeup products have heightened as a result of skin care’s influence on format and efficacy.”
Meanwhile, in the mass market, basic facial cosmetics sales rose slightly (0.25%) to $2.2 billion with some mixed performance within key segments, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended May 20, 2018. For instance, blush slipped 7.1% to $137.1 million and bronzer fell 13.3% $55.4 million but foundation sales rose 31% to $1.0 billion. Meanwhile, powder fell 4.9% to $369.9 million and concealer sales rose 3.9% to $297.1 million.
Lip cosmetic sales slipped 3.4% to $878.4 million. Lipstick decreased 2.2% to $670 million and sales of lipgloss fell 14.9% to $115.1 million. But, not all is lost in mass market lipcolor. Lipliner rose 4.2% to $68.6 million and lip treatment sales climbed 35.9% to $17.7 million, according to IRI.
The eye cosmetics sector as a whole dipped 1.6% to $2.08 billion in sales; but eyebrow makeup jumped 19.8% to $320.9 million. Eye liner fell 7.1% to $533.2 million and eyeshadow dropped 10.2% to $270.3 million. Mascara remained nearly flat at $917.5 million.
According to Alison Gaither, beauty and personal care analyst, Mintel, Chicago, skin care benefits are important to women in facial cosmetics, with 41% interested in these claims. When asked what benefits are important when choosing lip products, 62% of women cite moisturizing and hydrating benefits as essential.
In regards to researching new products to buy, younger consumers rely on online resources to learn about the latest beauty products. Mintel data shows that 25% of women use Amazon.com, and 23% use YouTube or Facebook.
“Consumers are primarily price-driven and may research one product across multiple sites to get the best deal,” Gaither told Happi.
And, when it comes to making actual purchases, Mintel data shows that more than half of women are shopping at mass merchandisers such as Walmart or Target for beauty products. The number increases slightly to 59% among women aged 18-24 and 61% for those aged 25-34.
“This shows that women are still convenience-driven in their beauty purchases as these retailers are widely available,” said Gaither. “The two age groups are also more likely than older women to visit specialty retailers such as Ulta and Sephora for beauty purchases.”
For Fall 2018, waterproof and long-wear attributes remain very popular qualities that consumers and artists expect from their color cosmetics formulas, noted James Vincent, makeup artist and director of education and artist relations for The Makeup Show, New York.
“Color cosmetic trends continue in the traditions we have seen the last few seasons with an eye toward texture,” Vincent added. “Skin is soft matte with more minimal coverage. Look to the leaders like Marc Jacobs and Urban Decay to really master this market. Their wide range of global shades and understanding of the market make their foundations some pro favorites. Eyes are dark smoky for fall with a combination of pencil and powders giving us an effortless look … a pop of color completes the lip look for the season. From bold reds to bright pinks and unexpected oranges. Smashbox Cosmetics has a wide range of lip product that embrace the seasonal transition.”
Celebrity collaborations are still in the spotlight. The biggest news of the summer so far is from L’Oréal Paris. Singer-songwriter Camila Cabello’s love of her hometown of Havana is no longer solely immortalized in her lyrics; it is now the name and inspiration behind a new L’Oréal Paris limited-edition makeup collection. Designed in close collaboration between Cabello and the company, the 14-piece line includes natural-looking, universally-appealing shades and vibrant packaging. The collection includes a bronzer, brow product, felt-tip eyeliner, lipglosses and eyeshadows.
Other major mass news includes this month’s launch from Wet N Wild. The brand linked up with Walmart for the Zodiac collection, inspired by the celestial beauty of the 12 zodiac signs and their four elements. With products like gleaming highlighters, metallic eyeshadows and ultrapigmented lipglosses, “Wild Ones” will have the opportunity to express their unique personality through curated shades that perfectly match each zodiac sign, said the company.
The Lipstick Factor
Beauty fans know lipstick is powerful. One swipe can energize a look, bolster confidence or brighten a mood. This rings true at CoverGirl, which has introduced the boldest, brightest launch of the year—Exhibitionist Lipstick. Available now, this 48-shade range of creamy lipstick features every color of the rainbow (from pinks and nudes to blues and purples) and comes in three finishes: cream, demi-matte and metallic. The formulation also features a vanilla scent and taste, according to the company, which has its model pictured on our August 2018 cover.
Maybelline New York’s new Lip Studio Collection makes it easy to stay on trend and create pro-level lip looks for festive events. Leading the launch is the Metallic Foil Liquid Lipstick that delivers a chromatic lip look in one simple swipe. The water-based formula includes suspended metallized pigments that fuse to lips to create a full-coverage, second skin lipcolor and a dimensional end look.
Meanwhile, Electric Shine Prismatic Lip Gloss is Maybelline’s first holographic gloss that gives lips an out-of-this-world cosmic shine. Radiant pearl pigments combined with a water-infused formula create an iridescent shine for a multidimensional lip look. The Lip Studio Glitter Fix Glitter Lip Gloss delivers effortless shimmer in one easy swipe for a lustrous finish. This gloss is carefully formulated with micro-fine glitters that adhere to lips for a remarkably lightweight, full-coverage glitter look, according to the company.
Rolling out this October at Estée Lauder is Pure Color Desire Rouge Excess Lipstick. According to the company, this “highly saturating” lipstick formula features extreme 25% pure treated pigments paired with exquisite moisturizing benefits to magnify lips’ curves for panoramic volume and exceptionally smooth comfort. Enhanced with Advanced Moisture Complex and Time Released HyaColor, the bold, rich color glides onto lips with one stroke, for an ultra-comfortable, lightweight feel that is incredibly smooth and lasts for eight hours. It is also infused with a fruity, floral fragrance; finishes available include crème and chrome.
Hydration is also on the menu at Jane Iredale. The company’s new Triple Luxe Long Lasting Naturally Moist Lipsticks offer 15 fresh “power colors” in a breakthrough luxury, clean formula. From electric pink (Natalie) to fine wine (Ella) to bold red (Gwen) to made-for-you nudes (Gabby, Molly, Sharon, Tricia), each shade uses antioxidant-rich moringa oil to soothe and nourish, plus Tahitian vanilla and blackberry for subtly sweet, natural flavor, said the company.
Iredale, founder and president, said, “Based on over 20 years of experience working with natural ingredients, I bring you this lipstick that offers both a treat your lips will crave and a look you’ll love.”
One of the biggest rollouts of the summer is long-awaited M∙A∙C Aaliyah, from the R&B music and film star. The collaboration features sahdes like Try Again Lipstick (a soft muted beige), More Than a Woman (cool deep red), Brooklyn Born Lipglass (sheer nude with pearl) and 1 in a Million Lipglass (deep rich purple).
I’ve Got My Eye on You
Rimmel London Wonder’Fully Real Mascara’s keratin-infused formula, along with its tapered brush, creates long lashes. The formulation is also dermatologist- and ophthalmologist-tested.
Milk Makeup’s Kush Mascara ($24), made with conditioning CBD-rich cannabis oil, is available in portable minis. According to a company press statement, “Coming off our 100% vegan announcement, this really is a big one for us. When we first talked about coming out with a volumizing fiber mascara that was fully vegan, we knew we couldn’t use beeswax, a common binding ingredient. That’s where cannabis oil came in. It fuses the fibers to lashes without fallout, gives the formula a creamy texture that allows for smoother application and provides an added conditioning benefit.”
When L’Oréal Paris introduced Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara in 2017, it became an instant fan favorite—with one sold every five seconds. This year, the brand expands the popular collection to include the new Voluminous Lash Paradise Liquid Eyeliner featuring all-day wear and intense, high shine pigments. The flexible, cone-shaped liner tip glides effortlessly to create a variety of liner looks from subtle to sharp, said the company.
L’Oréal Paris Lash Paradise has also added a Mascara Primer, a pink-tinted formulation that thickens lashes for volume and helps enhance mascara wear. The innovative, wavy bristle brush of the Primer contains more than 200 soft bristles that holds maximum formula to coat and prime lashes—the perfect canvas for mascara application. The unique pink-tinted formula, infused with rose oil, helps to condition lashes and adhere mascara to the lashes.
High-tech beauty brand Wunder2 Cosmetics has launched waterproof and transfer-proof eyeliner pencils, Super-Stay Liners. The range comprises three collections including metallic shimmers, pearlescent lusters and rich matte finishes to add the perfect pop of color and subtle shade to any beauty look, said the company. With 15 hues to choose from, there’s a liner for every occasion. The Glitter Collection carries six shades offering subtle sparkle, including Black, Emerald, Navy, Pink Aubergine and Bronze; The Essential Collection has three intense, matte shades of Black, Brown and Navy; and, the Metallic Collection has White Gold, Rose Gold, Champagne, Peach and Copper.
Eyeshadows are taking a more neutral tone. Bare Minerals Gen Nude Eyeshadow Palettes come in matte, satin and metallic finishes. Each palette features six nude and neutral-toned shades to create easy-to-wear looks designed to suit all skin tones. The highly pigmented formula is infused with mineral-rich ingredients including soothing cucumber extract, moisturizing borage oil and antioxidant rich algae to help reduce the appearance of puffiness, moisturize and protect eyes, according to the company.
Urban Decay’s new Born to Run Collection is headlined by the Born to Run Eyeshadow Palette, which is packed with an “insane” range of 21 eyeshadows. The palette pairs perfectly with the accompanying Born to Run Vice Lipsticks, 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencils and All Nighter Setting Spray. Made from a formula that gives each shade its velvety texture, rich color and blendability, Born To Run’s Eyeshadow shades hold tightly onto pigment that stays put, said the company, which is also rolling out a whipped, waterproof lip stain compact this summer called Lo-Fi Lip Mousse.
Novel formulas continue to pop up in the beauty sector. According to Gabriel De Santino, founder and president, Gabriel Cosmetics, highlighting, lowlighting and strobing are still “very much in,” which is why he focused on launching Gabriel Cosmetics’ new Cream Highlighter, Thistle, which serves all these purposes and works for all skin types.
Touted as a secret weapon for a healthy complexion, the new Vibrancy Argan Oil Concealer Fluid from Josie Maran Cosmetics is a nutrient-rich fresh and clean formulation that lifts, covers, brightens and smooths skin. The formula soothes, calms and treats skin conditions and concerns, from redness to dark spots to blemishes, with 100% pure argan oil. Elderberry flower brightens skin and blueberry extract helps visibly de-puff the under-eye area. Willowherb restores skin’s luminosity and visibly improves redness and inflammation.
Makeup sponge brand Beautyblender entered the color cosmetic arena with Bounce Liquid Whip Long-Wear Foundation. This full-coverage, long-wearing (up to 24 hours) featherweight foundation is infused with hyaluronic acid and antioxidant-rich white birch extract. It spans 32 inclusive shades in a first-to-market packaging developed for seamless use with the beautyblender sponge. All it takes is a few pumps of the formula into the egg-shaped reservoir and women can bounce to a flawless, velvety-smooth complexion within seconds! It launches mid-August exclusively at Sephora.
Other buzzworthy cosmetic news includes Pat McGrath Labs’ Skin Fetish collection of luxe illuminators. Billed as the makeup artist’s ultimate backstage secret for radiance, it delivers precision luminescence for the face and body. Hues range from gold to bronze.
Laura Mercier’s latest makeup creation is sheer, buildable and silky in texture. New Blush Color Infusion blends seamlessly with skin for a natural, fresh look, according to the company. Made for 10-hour wear, the blushers contain microfine powders designed to layer with liquid or powder makeup or on bare skin.
Global sales of color cosmetics are expected to reach $48.3 billion in 2018, up 6% from a year ago, according to new research from Mintel. Across the globe, the top five cosmetics markets in 2018 are forecast to be: the US ($12.1 billion), Japan ($6.4 billion), China ($5.1 billion), the UK ($2.7 billion) and South Korea ($2.2 billion).
“From a broader trend perspective, glowing, radiant complexions are not going away anytime soon,” noted Gaither of Mintel. “Inclusivity is another major trend that has staying power. Brands that offer expanded shade ranges and colors are finding more success among consumers. It is critical for brands to build a more inclusive marketing strategy as eventually there will be no ethnic majority.”
Judith van Vliet, president of the Color Marketing Group, discussed latest global color trends at the Color Pigments Manufacturers Association members’ meeting in June. Based on the latest edition of ColorForward, hues for 2019 are expected to be soft, dark and layered. These trends suggest that in an increasingly complex world, consumers will seek stability and control, as well as show increased appreciation for unique creativity and self-expression. For example, color can be used to increase focus and productivity in your office or to demonstrate individuality and confidence.
“Cosmetic trends right now are on a constant loop,” Vincent of The Makeup Show told Happi. “Social media has had such an influence on how, why and what makeup is worn. Brands keep pushing new product and palettes constantly so the trend for the consumer market pushes maximalism into 2019. Look for more bold, cool, deeper darker eyes and texture to take on new levels.
“On the runway and red carpet, however, the shift will be toward minimalist makeup tendencies. As cameras become more advanced and celebrities tire of the constant move toward makeup, a less-is-more approach will be seen. This dualism allows for each individual to choose makeup that makes a statement in a manner that they feel most comfortable.”