Christine Esposito, Managing Editor05.01.20
The US skin care market entered 2020 on a roll; 2019 sales in prestige channels rose 5% with impressive volume gains, and mass market sales increased 4.3% with key categories like moisturizers surging double digits. But along came COVID-19 and the market changed dramatically.
As the number of confirmed cases of coronavirus rose and Americans were asked to stay at home, consumers prioritized food and cleaning supplies. Supermarket and chain store shelves were wiped clean of antibacterial sprays, wipes, toilet paper, snacks and pasta. Most of the chatter on social media centered on weight gain, Zoom meetings and, from a beauty perspective, whether or not to cut or color hair; in other words, skin care was not top-of-mind.
But the enemies of healthy-looking skin do not rest. In fact, social-distancing and stay-at-home requests from state and local governments have changed daily routines, and therefore, may bring about unexpected exposure to some common culprits. Working remotely, faces are awash in the blue light of laptops, tablet and smartphone for longer periods of time. Those who might normally stay indoors are instead escaping the confines of their home with a mid-day walk or bike ride, but are they applying sunscreen? And distance learning must cause wrinkles—just ask any parents who have found themselves explaining fractions to their fourth graders.
Experts have linked emotional stress to health—and these are surely stressful times.
“[Stress] unbalances the two arms of the immune system, reducing cell mediated immunity, thus increasing the risk of all infections including viral, while flaring chronic inflammatory diseases such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, dermatitis and hives,” said Dr. Carl Thornfeldt, CEO and founder of Episciences, Inc. “Stress suppresses repair of the skin barrier which further increases risk of infection and pollution damage as well as induces chronic inflammation which accelerates skin aging.”
But if there’s any good news right now, it’s the fact that US consumers have time for self-care.
“With so much more time in our days, many people are improving their self-care routine which includes taking better care of their skin and also catching up on sleep,” said Dr. Eddie Omar, CEO of Phyto-C, a skin care company. He said this is also a great time for consumers “to give up bad habits” and “do the things they’ve always said they didn’t have time to do.”
But will they?
“I think it’s a bit too early to tell how consumer behavior will shift after we come through this,” said Heather Wilson, director of brand development and licensed esthetician at InstaNatural. “However, based on my experience, I do believe consumers will still have a desire to maintain their skin care regimens, but it may look different than it does today.”
Larissa Jensen, vice president, industry advisor at The NPD Group, also pointed to a current trend that will continue to impact the skin care category even as it emerges from the shock of COVID-19: clean beauty.
A big part of the growth and conversation in the marketplace in 2019, Jensen contends “clean beauty” will be amplified in a post-coronavirus world.
“People equate clean with safety—even before all this happened,” Jensen said.
And this, she insists, offers every skin care brand—not just startups and naturally-focused brands—an opportunity for growth.
“Anyone can be clean, but not everyone can be natural. Natural is not the only way to grow,” she told Happi.
In fact, many brands have been taking steps to reformulate their products in this manner, dropping materials that some consider controversial to meet rising demand from consumers.
“The demand for clean and natural skin care is growing rapidly, and while not every consumer is seeking those options yet—more consumers are becoming educated and aware of the ingredients in their skin care and making swaps to clean and natural alternatives. However, the one thing that is consistent across all consumers is that no matter what—they want the product to work. If the product lacks efficacy—even if it is the most natural formula—they won’t continue to purchase it,” noted Wilson.
Dr. Shunting Hu, founder of indie skin care company Acaderma, agrees that consumers expect brands to deliver on both fronts.
“In 2020, consumers have begun approaching products and ingredients mindfully; they want solutions for their skin and prevention is key along with conscious, clean ingredients,” she told Happi.
According to Hu, Acaderma “was introduced to set a new standard for clean beauty” to provide “clinically proven results by using science to harness the power of natural ingredients.”
The brand, which was part of 2018 Sephora Accelerate, has a list of nine ingredients that it bans from its products; but consumers aren’t missing anything. Oasis Barrier Booster repairs redness, calms skin sensitivity and soothes skin irritation through a potent active sourced from the botanical Kinkeliba.
“After addressing specific skin care concerns, this serum continues to strengthen the skin barrier and enhance future tolerance to other irritable ingredients, such as high concentrations of vitamin C or retinol. Each of our products target concerns from environmental stress, hyperpigmentation, dehydration, photo-aging and more,” Hu said.
Acaderma’s ingredient arsenal includes SesaHelio, a patented extract that draws from natural bioactives such as sesame, peony and summer snowflake to provide long-lasting antioxidant capacity and target the free radicals induced by environmental factors like pollution, blue light and UV radiation.
“Usual potent antioxidants such as pure vitamin C are not stable and quickly oxidize, which decreases its efficacy to prevent skin cell damage. We specifically developed SesaHelio with efficacy as paramount. After 24 hours, it still remains about 1.5 times and four times as potent as vitamin C and vitamin E, therefore providing longer protection to skin,” Hu told Happi. (For more on Acaderma, see Indie Inc)
Vichy Laboratories’ new concentrated serum, LiftActiv Peptide-C Anti Aging Ampoule Serum, is formulated with just 10 ingredients, but it includes 10% pure vitamin C to brighten and firm the skin while reducing fine lines; plant-based Phyto Peptides to prevent and protect against signs of collagen loss in the skin; hyaluronic acid to moisturize and plump the skin; and the brand’s proprietary volcanic water.
‘C’ What’s Happening
“Although specific ingredients are behind the efficacy of the product, it’s really the concentration of the ingredients that make a difference, especially when compared to other ampoules on the market,” said Board-Certified Dermatologist and Neuroscientist Dr. Erin Gilbert, MD, PhD, FAAD.
“In the Vichy LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Serum, you’re actually receiving multiple products (or ingredients) in a supercharged format within a single vial versus having to use multiple products at a lower concentration. In addition, each ingredient that’s featured in LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Serum specifically addresses major skin concerns,” Gilbert told Happi.
LiftActiv Peptide-C Anti Aging Ampoule Serum is packaged in individual amber glass vials that protect the formulation from UV light, heat, oxidation and contamination. According to Gilbert, the amber glass ensures “maximum efficacy and freshness, protecting it from oxidation—specifically protecting the high concentration of vitamin C which tends to be an unstable ingredient in beauty. When held in plastic packaging, air can oxidize it and it will become less effective,” she said.
The serum offers “free-from” status since it does not contain parabens, fragrance, silicone, preservatives, colorants or oil, but for Gilbert, this product checks other boxes.
“People are looking for natural and safe products that give the results they need—I see it every day in my personal practice. Additionally, many people are trying to reduce waste. LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Serum simplifies your skin care routine without risking decreased efficacy, and it’s 100% recyclable,” she said.
Kiehl’s is touting solid study results from its newest serum, Powerful-Strength Dark Circle Reducing Vitamin C Eye Serum which, through a blend of hyaluronic acid, tri-peptides and 10% vitamin C, is clinically proven to improve both blue and brown undereye circles by 16.6% in one week.
“The vitamin C helps treat hyperpigmentation or brown darkening of the undereye area. Vitamin C also promotes collagen production. Increased collagen production leads to increased thickness of the skin in this area, which can help mask the appearance of undereye circles from blood flow. In addition, the Tri-Peptide Complex can reduce the appearance of blue undereye circles. Hyaluronic acid adds hydration to the skin that can help improve the appearance of crow’s feet as well,” said Dr. Meghan O’Brien, who is a global consulting dermatologist for Kiehl’s.
O’Brien also pointed to additional benefits of vitamin C for the eye area.
“I love this as an ingredient in an eye cream because it is generally not irritating. The skin around eyes is naturally thinner compared to other areas of the face, making it more sensitive than the cheek or forehead. At the same time because the skin is thinner in this area, fine lines and changes in skin texture may appear earlier than the other areas of the face making this a common area of concern for my patients and consumers,” she said. “Many eye creams will include irritating ingredients such as retinol and glycolic acid which can be difficult for more sensitive and dry skin types to use. If you are using retinol or glycolic acid in other products that go on the entire face and you also use an eye cream with these ingredients, you are more likely to cause irritation around the eyes which temporarily can make the eyelid skin look worse.”
She said Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Dark Circle Reducing Vitamin C Eye Serum C is very unlikely to cause any irritation as it is both suitable for the thin eyelid skin and compatible with chemical exfoliants that may be used on the entire face.
As vitamin C’s popularity in topical products increases dramatically, Dallas, TX-based SkinCeuticals contends not all vitamin C serums are created equal. The firm notes that its patented vitamin C serums are backed by 16 clinical studies and more than 30 years of research.
This past year, the company reviewed research that addressed vitamin C’s role in protecting skin against combined aggressors; traditionally, the effects of atmospheric aggressors on skin have been tested individually. According to SkinCeuticals, a new study has proven that antioxidants effectively help neutralize chemical reactions generated by exposure to combined aggressors that one would experience in a typical, urban environment. Dr. Giuseppe Valacchi, a leading researcher in the study of ozone, contends exposure to atmospheric aggressors (UV light, ozone and diesel engine exhaust) is equivalent to 2-3 hours of outdoor exposure on a sunny day, in a city like Rome or New York.
The brand’s SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, a patented daytime vitamin C serum, is clinically proven to reduce combined oxidative damage from free radicals generated by UV, ozone and diesel exhaust by up to 41%.
SkinCeuticals has also launched a 15% TCA (trichloroacetic acid) Peel for in-office treatment, which marks the latest step in the brand’s mission to combine customized at-home regimens with in-office treatments. At the core of the SkinCeuticals Smart TCA Peel is pure, unbuffered TCA + glycolic acid in monodose packaging, which delivers a stable formula and consistent amount of product per patient, previously unavailable on the market. TCA is a self-neutralizing acid that denatures and dissolves epidermal proteins, leading to exfoliation of dead, dry skin cells. The peel system features 15% trichloroacetic acid; 3% glycolic acid, which acts as a keratolytic and enhances peel penetration; and a post-peel anti-inflammatory cream that reduces skin’s temperature to improve comfort, according to SkinCeuticals.
Addressing Skin’s Needs
Marketers today are touting workhorse materials, natural ingredients and clean formulations as they tackle the biggest issues in skin care.
At Obagi, the newest launch is Elastiderm Facial Serum with patented Bi-Mineral Contour Complex, which reportedly helps support skin elasticity so it can bounce back from the signs of aging, resulting in firmer-looking, more resilient skin. The company provided a sneak peek to editors in late 2019 and rolled out the new treatment in February 2020.
“Following years of research and testing, we’re pleased to bring a topical skin care solution to market that solves a need in the industry,” said Jaime Castle, president of Obagi. “We’re also proud of the fact that, like all Obagi products, Elastiderm Facial Serum is tested on all skin tones and types and is safe for consumers of all ages seeking firmer-looking skin.”
According to Obagi, Elastiderm Facial Serum is the only product on the market with patented Bi-Mineral Contour Complex, which is designed to promote the three necessary stages of developing healthy, functional elastin.
“We know elastin, alongside collagen and glycosaminoglycans, is critical to maintaining youthful-looking skin; However, in order to be functional, elastin must undergo a specific process of transformation,” noted Laurence Dryer, PhD, vice president of R&D at Obagi. “We studied elastic fiber quality and orientation to understand what it takes to impact skin resiliency, and then designed an advanced technology that addresses all three stages of elastin development and assembly to produce real results in the skin.”
Obagi contends the formula is clinically proven to improve the signs of skin firmness, bounce back and crepiness in as few as two weeks with increased improvement after eight weeks and 12 weeks, with continued use. Following eight weeks of use, 100% of users reported their face looked firmer; 97% noticed their skin felt more elastic and resilient; 97% of participants saw a diminished appearance of crepey facial skin; and 97% of participants reported, “my skin has bounce back,” the firm reported.
Burt’s Bees has eschewed retinoids for a retinol alternative—bakuchiol—in its new Renewal line, which consists of a Refining Cleanser, Firming Moisturizing Cream, Intensive Firming Serum, Dark Spot Corrector and a Firming Eye Cream.
“Retinoids are known for their ability to treat aging skin—but that’s not all they’re known for. Topical retinoids frequently are not well tolerated by skin and cause the ‘retinoid reaction,’ which is characterized by pruritus, burning sensation, erythema and peeling,” said Hemali Gunt, head of clinical affairs for Burt’s Bees. “In addition, retinoid therapy also causes photosensitization, and patients are therefore advised to avoid excessive sun exposure and take precautionary measures for sun protection. This is a serious concern in sensitive skin patients who also desire to use anti-aging products but are not able to use retinoids.”
Bakuchiol offers a natural alternative which is not only effective, but well tolerated, insists Gunt. With skin sensitivity becoming more prevalent, she said Burt’s Bees research has demonstrated that Renewal Skin care, with bakuchiol, is an effective and safe anti-aging solution for consumers with dermatologic conditions, such as rosacea and eczema.
According to Gunt, bakuchiol possesses retinol functionality through retinol-like regulation of gene expression and it has additional benefits.
“Bakuchiol is a broad-spectrum antioxidant and has an excellent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity which helps protect skin from oxidative damage. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol does not degrade in the presence of air and sunlight. We have also shown that Bakuchiol can function as an anti-inflammatory by inhibiting/down-regulating pro-inflammatory genes and enzymes,” she said.
Further, Gunt noted its compatibility with the brand’s positioning in skin care.
Coming from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, the bakuchiol used in Burt’s Bees Renewal products is “miscible in a wide variety of vegetable oils (sunflower oil, jojoba oils, olive oil) and natural emollients which supports our formulation philosophy—where each ingredient in the formula has functional benefits.“
All of the products in the Renewal line contain the hero ingredient; the Firming Moisturizing Cream and Intensive Firming Serum are formulated with 1% bakuchiol while the Dark Spot Corrector combines 0.5% bakuchiol with vitamin C.
“The skin around the eye area is thinner and more sensitive, so we formulated our Firming Eye Cream with a combination of 0.5% bakuchiol and a potent complex, which includes extracts from apple, hibiscus, watermelon rind and lentil fruit to hydrate and nourish skin with antioxidants, vitamins and amino acids,” said Gunt.
Maximizing Benefits
Skin care brands continue to maximize their formulations to deliver improved benefits to consumers.
InstaNatural’s new Glycolic Acid Collection offers a trio of products to refine, brighten and smooth the skin’s surface.
“Glycolic acid on its own is very robust and known to work. At InstaNatural, while we leverage proven actives such as glycolic acid due to their efficacy, we formulate products to be well-rounded and contain a blend of ingredients that aid in the desired result. Additionally, we never want to compromise the skin’s health so we consider ingredients that balance any negative effect that may occur, such as dryness or irritation that is common with glycolic. For this collection, each product leverages a different approach,” Wilson said.
In the Exfoliating Glycolic Mask, glycolic acid is combined with quartz crystals to provide both physical and chemical exfoliation benefits, while pumpkin, vitamin C and turmeric refine and brighten for skin that appears softer, smoother and more radiant. The 30% Glycolic AHA Chemical Peel teams glycolic and fruit acids with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and nourishing botanicals. The collection is rounded out with 7% Glycolic AHA Toner.
When formulating with glycolic acid, pH level is critical, insists Wilson.
“A product can contain glycolic acid but the pH is a huge factor in the result that is achieved. Products with too low of a pH can cause damage to the skin, but if too high, you render the glycolic acid ineffective. Unlike professional products, consumer products are designed to be used more often and if the skin is continually exposed to a pH that is too low, you may slowly damage the natural barrier which results in irritation, redness and sensitivity,” she said.
“Additionally, not all ingredients are stable and effective at lower pH levels,” Wilson continued. “For example, certain forms of vitamin C—such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate—need a higher pH to be stable, so leveraging the correct forms of ingredients and avoiding incompatible ingredients is important to create a formula that is effective, stable and safe for the skin.”
DefenAge 3D Eye Radiance Cream, which recently was named the best eye cream for dark circles by NewBeauty, contains the brand’s proprietary defensin technology, according to Carlsbad, CA-based Progenitor Biologics, LLC.
“We believe that a true innovation in skin rejuvenation, including delicate skin around eyes, is the topical use of natural signaling molecules called defensins,” CEO Nikolay Turovets, PhD, told Happi. “Defensins wake up dormant, ‘preserved’ cells in our body that, in return, produce new and young skin. This discovery came from full-spectrum academia research and is backed up by multiple clinical trials.”
DefenAge’s 3D Eye Radiance Cream combines concentrated liposome-incorporated defensing molecules in an advanced formulation of eye cream that includes botanicals shown to be highly-effective for the skin around eyes.
According to Turovets, a recent peer-review clinical study of DefenAge’s eye cream in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology concluded that the use of topical formulations of defensins statically improve patient reported outcomes of skin quality, especially redness, sensitivity to weather, age spots and crow’s feet.
The cream is housed in packaging with a patent-protected metal applicator with Cooling Tip Technology, which takes human touch out of the process. This means that by using an applicator, the consumer dramatically reduces the risk of over-straightening gentle skin around the eye vs. the use of fingertips, noted Turovets. In addition, the hypoallergenic, nickel-free and hypoallergenic tip is infused with copper molecules that are said to enable antimicrobial benefits. Lastly, it provides a luxurious experience for the consumer as it offers a soothing and cooling sensation upon contact, Turovets said.
Ingredients in Action
Clinique is addressing the eye area and aging skin with several new rollouts. One is Superdefense Broad Spectrum SPF 25 Fatigue + 1st Signs of Age Multi-Correcting Cream. Out last month, this daytime moisturizer is formulated with caffeine, carnitine, creatine, hyaluronic acid, trehalose, sigesbeckia extract, vitamins C and E, and ergothioneine. In addition, it delivers sun protection to help block UVA and UVB rays, as well as protection from infrared radiation and blue light.
This month, the Estée Lauder Companies brand will unveil Clinique Moisture Surge Sheertint Hydrator SPF25, which delivers a higher SPF as well as hydration, all-day antioxidant protection and defense against aggressors such as UV and pollution. It combines sheer pigments (to mask imperfections) with hyaluronic acid, activated aloe water and trehalose.
Also new to the Moisture Surge portfolio is Clinique Moisture Surge Eye 96-Hour Hydro-Filler Concentrate, a lightweight water-gel that drenches the eye area with 96 hours of hydration through the brand’s auto-replenishing lipid-sphere technology.
Companies continue to work on products that provide relief from eczema, a skin care concern that goes beyond basic vanity issues. Kamedis, for example, has reported that its Eczema Therapy Cream has been found to be significantly more effective in treating atopic dermatitis in skin of color than the Kamedis cream without the botanicals as well as a leading non-botanical OTC product used to provide eczema relief, according to a double-blind, randomized controlled study.
More than 19% of African-Americans in the US suffer from atopic dermatitis and the condition is especially prevalent among children, fueling strong interest in solutions that can control the severity and duration of eczema rashes. Study results covering 57 dark-skinned patients aged 3-73 show that 40% of the participants using the Kamedis OTC product rated clear on the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) scale of skin appearance after 28 days compared to 12% using with the same product without the botanicals. The company contends this demonstrates the efficacy of the patented formulation which contains Chinese rhubarb, great burnet, tree of heaven, baikal skullcap and licorice extracts.
“Ingredient formulation is at the heart of all Kamedis skin care products. We think about skin solutions differently and look to nature first, carefully studying traditional medicine literature and conducting our own testing to optimize the efficacy of our formulas,” said Dr. Yonit Bomstein, CTO and head of R&D. The Eczema Therapy Cream formula incorporates many ingredients that have been shown to help the skin microbiome repair, moisture retention and resiliency.”
The formula also contains Calm Botaniplex, which Bomstein described as a “botanically rich proprietary combination” complemented by three essential ceramides and shea butter.
“Consumers are looking for products that return their skin to its natural balance and are clinically proven to be effective. They don’t want products that contain harsh ingredients like steroids or ingredients that can aggravate their skin like fragrances, dyes or parabens,” added Lori Norian, US VP-marketing, Kamedis.
According to Norian, Kamedis uses natural plant extracts in combination with active ingredients.
“Our approach embraces nature and the latest science to deliver skin-changing results,” she said.
A World of Materials
As consumers seek natural components in their beauty products, brands are sourcing ingredients around the world to deliver efficacy and sensorial experiences.
Lumene, a collection of sustainable beauty products highlighted by hand-picked Nordic ingredients, has added Arctic Berry Cocktail Brightening Hydra-Oil. It is said to replenish even the driest skin with a unique bi-phase formula of wild cloudberry, cranberry seed oils, a cocktail of vitamin C, B3 and B5, omega fatty acids and pure arctic spring water.
Derma E recently added Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Cloud Cleanser and the Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Overnight Facial to its roster. Enriched with hyaluronic acid and alkaline water, the products are said to deliver intense hydration to replenish even the driest skin—think a drink of water for the skin, according to the brand.
The Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Cloud Cleanser contains snow mushroom, an adaptogen used for thousands of years in Asian skin care that helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and lock in moisture. The new gel-to-foam cleanser provides a sensorial experience with its lightweight, cloud-like texture. The Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Overnight Facial was designed to offer an ultimate hydration experience while one sleeps. The cooling gel is formulated with aloe vera gel-infused moisture beads as well as alkaline water and hyaluronic acid.
Mass market stalwart Olay is also expanding its range with additional body skin care products that deliver unique components and sensorial experiences. The range includes Olay Body Milk, which is described as a lightweight formula infused with a fast-absorbing moisturizer to give dry skin 48-hour hydration; two body masks (featuring charcoal and kaolin clay); and a pair of Olay Body Exfoliating Powders (Pitaya & Cranberry Seed and Kiwi & Adzuki Seed) that are water-activated exfoliants.
P&G will look to these new Olay SKUs to build on past successes in body skin care. According to IRI, Olay Regenerist Body Anti-Aging sales rose 15% to $4.3 million last year, helping fuel growth of the small but rising body anti-aging category.
Similar growth was reported in other mass skin care categories (See chart p. 66). But that was then, and this is now—and change is inevitable.
“As the effects of the COVID-19 Pandemic continue to unfold, the shifts and impact in consumer buying habits are likely to focus on two key areas, practicality and psychology. Hand care and moisturizing products for excessively washed skin, along with products that promise to clean and protect from germs, have seen 15X the search traffic they saw this time last year. More importantly, retailers can’t keep them in stock,” said Kristi Bergeron, vice president brand and integrated marketing at Hatch Beauty Brands, which released a new report, “Here and Now, Beauty in a Post-COVID-19 Economy” in April.
“As consumers clamor to return to a sense of normalcy over the next three to 12 months, the fear of germs and the need for super clean everything isn’t going to dissipate quickly. We expect to see these needs extend into skin care trends for months, if not years, to come. Expect to see a rise in products that make strong claims surrounding efficacy and promise a new level of effectiveness against germs and environmental stressors. Additionally, we anticipate that while stories of sustainable, natural and clean won’t halt completely, they may take a back seat to the assurance of high-performance and germ-free moving forward,” added Bergeron.
Wilson of InstaNatural foresees a shift toward simplification.
“I think consumers may recognize that they don’t need long and complicated daily routines to be effective, and will start to see that less is more,” she told Happi. “I also think that right now consumers may be dedicating more time to things like masks and peels and this could lead to them making a more intentional effort to keep that going in their routines. Additionally, many of us are wearing less makeup since we are working from home—and I hope it leads to women embracing their natural skin without the need for heavy foundation. Finally, with things being so unknown for many—it is possible that consumers may look for budget-friendly alternatives to their current products, in which case I think consumers will see that they can achieve great results without having to spend a lot of money on products.”
Kline last month revised its forecast for the $75 billion US cosmetics and toiletries market. The market research group’s new outlook indicates a decline of 2.5% in 2020 as the most likely outcome, with the best-case scenario a 1.5% gain and the worst-case scenario an 8.1% drop.
Worrying about how one’s brand will fare in this new normal is sure to cause some wrinkles.
As the number of confirmed cases of coronavirus rose and Americans were asked to stay at home, consumers prioritized food and cleaning supplies. Supermarket and chain store shelves were wiped clean of antibacterial sprays, wipes, toilet paper, snacks and pasta. Most of the chatter on social media centered on weight gain, Zoom meetings and, from a beauty perspective, whether or not to cut or color hair; in other words, skin care was not top-of-mind.
But the enemies of healthy-looking skin do not rest. In fact, social-distancing and stay-at-home requests from state and local governments have changed daily routines, and therefore, may bring about unexpected exposure to some common culprits. Working remotely, faces are awash in the blue light of laptops, tablet and smartphone for longer periods of time. Those who might normally stay indoors are instead escaping the confines of their home with a mid-day walk or bike ride, but are they applying sunscreen? And distance learning must cause wrinkles—just ask any parents who have found themselves explaining fractions to their fourth graders.
Experts have linked emotional stress to health—and these are surely stressful times.
“[Stress] unbalances the two arms of the immune system, reducing cell mediated immunity, thus increasing the risk of all infections including viral, while flaring chronic inflammatory diseases such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, dermatitis and hives,” said Dr. Carl Thornfeldt, CEO and founder of Episciences, Inc. “Stress suppresses repair of the skin barrier which further increases risk of infection and pollution damage as well as induces chronic inflammation which accelerates skin aging.”
But if there’s any good news right now, it’s the fact that US consumers have time for self-care.
“With so much more time in our days, many people are improving their self-care routine which includes taking better care of their skin and also catching up on sleep,” said Dr. Eddie Omar, CEO of Phyto-C, a skin care company. He said this is also a great time for consumers “to give up bad habits” and “do the things they’ve always said they didn’t have time to do.”
But will they?
“I think it’s a bit too early to tell how consumer behavior will shift after we come through this,” said Heather Wilson, director of brand development and licensed esthetician at InstaNatural. “However, based on my experience, I do believe consumers will still have a desire to maintain their skin care regimens, but it may look different than it does today.”
Larissa Jensen, vice president, industry advisor at The NPD Group, also pointed to a current trend that will continue to impact the skin care category even as it emerges from the shock of COVID-19: clean beauty.
A big part of the growth and conversation in the marketplace in 2019, Jensen contends “clean beauty” will be amplified in a post-coronavirus world.
“People equate clean with safety—even before all this happened,” Jensen said.
And this, she insists, offers every skin care brand—not just startups and naturally-focused brands—an opportunity for growth.
“Anyone can be clean, but not everyone can be natural. Natural is not the only way to grow,” she told Happi.
In fact, many brands have been taking steps to reformulate their products in this manner, dropping materials that some consider controversial to meet rising demand from consumers.
“The demand for clean and natural skin care is growing rapidly, and while not every consumer is seeking those options yet—more consumers are becoming educated and aware of the ingredients in their skin care and making swaps to clean and natural alternatives. However, the one thing that is consistent across all consumers is that no matter what—they want the product to work. If the product lacks efficacy—even if it is the most natural formula—they won’t continue to purchase it,” noted Wilson.
Dr. Shunting Hu, founder of indie skin care company Acaderma, agrees that consumers expect brands to deliver on both fronts.
“In 2020, consumers have begun approaching products and ingredients mindfully; they want solutions for their skin and prevention is key along with conscious, clean ingredients,” she told Happi.
According to Hu, Acaderma “was introduced to set a new standard for clean beauty” to provide “clinically proven results by using science to harness the power of natural ingredients.”
The brand, which was part of 2018 Sephora Accelerate, has a list of nine ingredients that it bans from its products; but consumers aren’t missing anything. Oasis Barrier Booster repairs redness, calms skin sensitivity and soothes skin irritation through a potent active sourced from the botanical Kinkeliba.
“After addressing specific skin care concerns, this serum continues to strengthen the skin barrier and enhance future tolerance to other irritable ingredients, such as high concentrations of vitamin C or retinol. Each of our products target concerns from environmental stress, hyperpigmentation, dehydration, photo-aging and more,” Hu said.
Acaderma’s ingredient arsenal includes SesaHelio, a patented extract that draws from natural bioactives such as sesame, peony and summer snowflake to provide long-lasting antioxidant capacity and target the free radicals induced by environmental factors like pollution, blue light and UV radiation.
“Usual potent antioxidants such as pure vitamin C are not stable and quickly oxidize, which decreases its efficacy to prevent skin cell damage. We specifically developed SesaHelio with efficacy as paramount. After 24 hours, it still remains about 1.5 times and four times as potent as vitamin C and vitamin E, therefore providing longer protection to skin,” Hu told Happi. (For more on Acaderma, see Indie Inc)
Vichy Laboratories’ new concentrated serum, LiftActiv Peptide-C Anti Aging Ampoule Serum, is formulated with just 10 ingredients, but it includes 10% pure vitamin C to brighten and firm the skin while reducing fine lines; plant-based Phyto Peptides to prevent and protect against signs of collagen loss in the skin; hyaluronic acid to moisturize and plump the skin; and the brand’s proprietary volcanic water.
‘C’ What’s Happening
“Although specific ingredients are behind the efficacy of the product, it’s really the concentration of the ingredients that make a difference, especially when compared to other ampoules on the market,” said Board-Certified Dermatologist and Neuroscientist Dr. Erin Gilbert, MD, PhD, FAAD.
“In the Vichy LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Serum, you’re actually receiving multiple products (or ingredients) in a supercharged format within a single vial versus having to use multiple products at a lower concentration. In addition, each ingredient that’s featured in LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Serum specifically addresses major skin concerns,” Gilbert told Happi.
LiftActiv Peptide-C Anti Aging Ampoule Serum is packaged in individual amber glass vials that protect the formulation from UV light, heat, oxidation and contamination. According to Gilbert, the amber glass ensures “maximum efficacy and freshness, protecting it from oxidation—specifically protecting the high concentration of vitamin C which tends to be an unstable ingredient in beauty. When held in plastic packaging, air can oxidize it and it will become less effective,” she said.
The serum offers “free-from” status since it does not contain parabens, fragrance, silicone, preservatives, colorants or oil, but for Gilbert, this product checks other boxes.
“People are looking for natural and safe products that give the results they need—I see it every day in my personal practice. Additionally, many people are trying to reduce waste. LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Serum simplifies your skin care routine without risking decreased efficacy, and it’s 100% recyclable,” she said.
Kiehl’s is touting solid study results from its newest serum, Powerful-Strength Dark Circle Reducing Vitamin C Eye Serum which, through a blend of hyaluronic acid, tri-peptides and 10% vitamin C, is clinically proven to improve both blue and brown undereye circles by 16.6% in one week.
“The vitamin C helps treat hyperpigmentation or brown darkening of the undereye area. Vitamin C also promotes collagen production. Increased collagen production leads to increased thickness of the skin in this area, which can help mask the appearance of undereye circles from blood flow. In addition, the Tri-Peptide Complex can reduce the appearance of blue undereye circles. Hyaluronic acid adds hydration to the skin that can help improve the appearance of crow’s feet as well,” said Dr. Meghan O’Brien, who is a global consulting dermatologist for Kiehl’s.
O’Brien also pointed to additional benefits of vitamin C for the eye area.
“I love this as an ingredient in an eye cream because it is generally not irritating. The skin around eyes is naturally thinner compared to other areas of the face, making it more sensitive than the cheek or forehead. At the same time because the skin is thinner in this area, fine lines and changes in skin texture may appear earlier than the other areas of the face making this a common area of concern for my patients and consumers,” she said. “Many eye creams will include irritating ingredients such as retinol and glycolic acid which can be difficult for more sensitive and dry skin types to use. If you are using retinol or glycolic acid in other products that go on the entire face and you also use an eye cream with these ingredients, you are more likely to cause irritation around the eyes which temporarily can make the eyelid skin look worse.”
She said Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Dark Circle Reducing Vitamin C Eye Serum C is very unlikely to cause any irritation as it is both suitable for the thin eyelid skin and compatible with chemical exfoliants that may be used on the entire face.
As vitamin C’s popularity in topical products increases dramatically, Dallas, TX-based SkinCeuticals contends not all vitamin C serums are created equal. The firm notes that its patented vitamin C serums are backed by 16 clinical studies and more than 30 years of research.
This past year, the company reviewed research that addressed vitamin C’s role in protecting skin against combined aggressors; traditionally, the effects of atmospheric aggressors on skin have been tested individually. According to SkinCeuticals, a new study has proven that antioxidants effectively help neutralize chemical reactions generated by exposure to combined aggressors that one would experience in a typical, urban environment. Dr. Giuseppe Valacchi, a leading researcher in the study of ozone, contends exposure to atmospheric aggressors (UV light, ozone and diesel engine exhaust) is equivalent to 2-3 hours of outdoor exposure on a sunny day, in a city like Rome or New York.
The brand’s SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, a patented daytime vitamin C serum, is clinically proven to reduce combined oxidative damage from free radicals generated by UV, ozone and diesel exhaust by up to 41%.
SkinCeuticals has also launched a 15% TCA (trichloroacetic acid) Peel for in-office treatment, which marks the latest step in the brand’s mission to combine customized at-home regimens with in-office treatments. At the core of the SkinCeuticals Smart TCA Peel is pure, unbuffered TCA + glycolic acid in monodose packaging, which delivers a stable formula and consistent amount of product per patient, previously unavailable on the market. TCA is a self-neutralizing acid that denatures and dissolves epidermal proteins, leading to exfoliation of dead, dry skin cells. The peel system features 15% trichloroacetic acid; 3% glycolic acid, which acts as a keratolytic and enhances peel penetration; and a post-peel anti-inflammatory cream that reduces skin’s temperature to improve comfort, according to SkinCeuticals.
Addressing Skin’s Needs
Marketers today are touting workhorse materials, natural ingredients and clean formulations as they tackle the biggest issues in skin care.
At Obagi, the newest launch is Elastiderm Facial Serum with patented Bi-Mineral Contour Complex, which reportedly helps support skin elasticity so it can bounce back from the signs of aging, resulting in firmer-looking, more resilient skin. The company provided a sneak peek to editors in late 2019 and rolled out the new treatment in February 2020.
“Following years of research and testing, we’re pleased to bring a topical skin care solution to market that solves a need in the industry,” said Jaime Castle, president of Obagi. “We’re also proud of the fact that, like all Obagi products, Elastiderm Facial Serum is tested on all skin tones and types and is safe for consumers of all ages seeking firmer-looking skin.”
According to Obagi, Elastiderm Facial Serum is the only product on the market with patented Bi-Mineral Contour Complex, which is designed to promote the three necessary stages of developing healthy, functional elastin.
“We know elastin, alongside collagen and glycosaminoglycans, is critical to maintaining youthful-looking skin; However, in order to be functional, elastin must undergo a specific process of transformation,” noted Laurence Dryer, PhD, vice president of R&D at Obagi. “We studied elastic fiber quality and orientation to understand what it takes to impact skin resiliency, and then designed an advanced technology that addresses all three stages of elastin development and assembly to produce real results in the skin.”
Obagi contends the formula is clinically proven to improve the signs of skin firmness, bounce back and crepiness in as few as two weeks with increased improvement after eight weeks and 12 weeks, with continued use. Following eight weeks of use, 100% of users reported their face looked firmer; 97% noticed their skin felt more elastic and resilient; 97% of participants saw a diminished appearance of crepey facial skin; and 97% of participants reported, “my skin has bounce back,” the firm reported.
Burt’s Bees has eschewed retinoids for a retinol alternative—bakuchiol—in its new Renewal line, which consists of a Refining Cleanser, Firming Moisturizing Cream, Intensive Firming Serum, Dark Spot Corrector and a Firming Eye Cream.
“Retinoids are known for their ability to treat aging skin—but that’s not all they’re known for. Topical retinoids frequently are not well tolerated by skin and cause the ‘retinoid reaction,’ which is characterized by pruritus, burning sensation, erythema and peeling,” said Hemali Gunt, head of clinical affairs for Burt’s Bees. “In addition, retinoid therapy also causes photosensitization, and patients are therefore advised to avoid excessive sun exposure and take precautionary measures for sun protection. This is a serious concern in sensitive skin patients who also desire to use anti-aging products but are not able to use retinoids.”
Bakuchiol offers a natural alternative which is not only effective, but well tolerated, insists Gunt. With skin sensitivity becoming more prevalent, she said Burt’s Bees research has demonstrated that Renewal Skin care, with bakuchiol, is an effective and safe anti-aging solution for consumers with dermatologic conditions, such as rosacea and eczema.
According to Gunt, bakuchiol possesses retinol functionality through retinol-like regulation of gene expression and it has additional benefits.
“Bakuchiol is a broad-spectrum antioxidant and has an excellent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity which helps protect skin from oxidative damage. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol does not degrade in the presence of air and sunlight. We have also shown that Bakuchiol can function as an anti-inflammatory by inhibiting/down-regulating pro-inflammatory genes and enzymes,” she said.
Further, Gunt noted its compatibility with the brand’s positioning in skin care.
Coming from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, the bakuchiol used in Burt’s Bees Renewal products is “miscible in a wide variety of vegetable oils (sunflower oil, jojoba oils, olive oil) and natural emollients which supports our formulation philosophy—where each ingredient in the formula has functional benefits.“
All of the products in the Renewal line contain the hero ingredient; the Firming Moisturizing Cream and Intensive Firming Serum are formulated with 1% bakuchiol while the Dark Spot Corrector combines 0.5% bakuchiol with vitamin C.
“The skin around the eye area is thinner and more sensitive, so we formulated our Firming Eye Cream with a combination of 0.5% bakuchiol and a potent complex, which includes extracts from apple, hibiscus, watermelon rind and lentil fruit to hydrate and nourish skin with antioxidants, vitamins and amino acids,” said Gunt.
Maximizing Benefits
Skin care brands continue to maximize their formulations to deliver improved benefits to consumers.
InstaNatural’s new Glycolic Acid Collection offers a trio of products to refine, brighten and smooth the skin’s surface.
“Glycolic acid on its own is very robust and known to work. At InstaNatural, while we leverage proven actives such as glycolic acid due to their efficacy, we formulate products to be well-rounded and contain a blend of ingredients that aid in the desired result. Additionally, we never want to compromise the skin’s health so we consider ingredients that balance any negative effect that may occur, such as dryness or irritation that is common with glycolic. For this collection, each product leverages a different approach,” Wilson said.
In the Exfoliating Glycolic Mask, glycolic acid is combined with quartz crystals to provide both physical and chemical exfoliation benefits, while pumpkin, vitamin C and turmeric refine and brighten for skin that appears softer, smoother and more radiant. The 30% Glycolic AHA Chemical Peel teams glycolic and fruit acids with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and nourishing botanicals. The collection is rounded out with 7% Glycolic AHA Toner.
When formulating with glycolic acid, pH level is critical, insists Wilson.
“A product can contain glycolic acid but the pH is a huge factor in the result that is achieved. Products with too low of a pH can cause damage to the skin, but if too high, you render the glycolic acid ineffective. Unlike professional products, consumer products are designed to be used more often and if the skin is continually exposed to a pH that is too low, you may slowly damage the natural barrier which results in irritation, redness and sensitivity,” she said.
“Additionally, not all ingredients are stable and effective at lower pH levels,” Wilson continued. “For example, certain forms of vitamin C—such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate—need a higher pH to be stable, so leveraging the correct forms of ingredients and avoiding incompatible ingredients is important to create a formula that is effective, stable and safe for the skin.”
DefenAge 3D Eye Radiance Cream, which recently was named the best eye cream for dark circles by NewBeauty, contains the brand’s proprietary defensin technology, according to Carlsbad, CA-based Progenitor Biologics, LLC.
“We believe that a true innovation in skin rejuvenation, including delicate skin around eyes, is the topical use of natural signaling molecules called defensins,” CEO Nikolay Turovets, PhD, told Happi. “Defensins wake up dormant, ‘preserved’ cells in our body that, in return, produce new and young skin. This discovery came from full-spectrum academia research and is backed up by multiple clinical trials.”
DefenAge’s 3D Eye Radiance Cream combines concentrated liposome-incorporated defensing molecules in an advanced formulation of eye cream that includes botanicals shown to be highly-effective for the skin around eyes.
According to Turovets, a recent peer-review clinical study of DefenAge’s eye cream in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology concluded that the use of topical formulations of defensins statically improve patient reported outcomes of skin quality, especially redness, sensitivity to weather, age spots and crow’s feet.
The cream is housed in packaging with a patent-protected metal applicator with Cooling Tip Technology, which takes human touch out of the process. This means that by using an applicator, the consumer dramatically reduces the risk of over-straightening gentle skin around the eye vs. the use of fingertips, noted Turovets. In addition, the hypoallergenic, nickel-free and hypoallergenic tip is infused with copper molecules that are said to enable antimicrobial benefits. Lastly, it provides a luxurious experience for the consumer as it offers a soothing and cooling sensation upon contact, Turovets said.
Ingredients in Action
Clinique is addressing the eye area and aging skin with several new rollouts. One is Superdefense Broad Spectrum SPF 25 Fatigue + 1st Signs of Age Multi-Correcting Cream. Out last month, this daytime moisturizer is formulated with caffeine, carnitine, creatine, hyaluronic acid, trehalose, sigesbeckia extract, vitamins C and E, and ergothioneine. In addition, it delivers sun protection to help block UVA and UVB rays, as well as protection from infrared radiation and blue light.
This month, the Estée Lauder Companies brand will unveil Clinique Moisture Surge Sheertint Hydrator SPF25, which delivers a higher SPF as well as hydration, all-day antioxidant protection and defense against aggressors such as UV and pollution. It combines sheer pigments (to mask imperfections) with hyaluronic acid, activated aloe water and trehalose.
Also new to the Moisture Surge portfolio is Clinique Moisture Surge Eye 96-Hour Hydro-Filler Concentrate, a lightweight water-gel that drenches the eye area with 96 hours of hydration through the brand’s auto-replenishing lipid-sphere technology.
Companies continue to work on products that provide relief from eczema, a skin care concern that goes beyond basic vanity issues. Kamedis, for example, has reported that its Eczema Therapy Cream has been found to be significantly more effective in treating atopic dermatitis in skin of color than the Kamedis cream without the botanicals as well as a leading non-botanical OTC product used to provide eczema relief, according to a double-blind, randomized controlled study.
More than 19% of African-Americans in the US suffer from atopic dermatitis and the condition is especially prevalent among children, fueling strong interest in solutions that can control the severity and duration of eczema rashes. Study results covering 57 dark-skinned patients aged 3-73 show that 40% of the participants using the Kamedis OTC product rated clear on the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) scale of skin appearance after 28 days compared to 12% using with the same product without the botanicals. The company contends this demonstrates the efficacy of the patented formulation which contains Chinese rhubarb, great burnet, tree of heaven, baikal skullcap and licorice extracts.
“Ingredient formulation is at the heart of all Kamedis skin care products. We think about skin solutions differently and look to nature first, carefully studying traditional medicine literature and conducting our own testing to optimize the efficacy of our formulas,” said Dr. Yonit Bomstein, CTO and head of R&D. The Eczema Therapy Cream formula incorporates many ingredients that have been shown to help the skin microbiome repair, moisture retention and resiliency.”
The formula also contains Calm Botaniplex, which Bomstein described as a “botanically rich proprietary combination” complemented by three essential ceramides and shea butter.
“Consumers are looking for products that return their skin to its natural balance and are clinically proven to be effective. They don’t want products that contain harsh ingredients like steroids or ingredients that can aggravate their skin like fragrances, dyes or parabens,” added Lori Norian, US VP-marketing, Kamedis.
According to Norian, Kamedis uses natural plant extracts in combination with active ingredients.
“Our approach embraces nature and the latest science to deliver skin-changing results,” she said.
A World of Materials
As consumers seek natural components in their beauty products, brands are sourcing ingredients around the world to deliver efficacy and sensorial experiences.
Lumene, a collection of sustainable beauty products highlighted by hand-picked Nordic ingredients, has added Arctic Berry Cocktail Brightening Hydra-Oil. It is said to replenish even the driest skin with a unique bi-phase formula of wild cloudberry, cranberry seed oils, a cocktail of vitamin C, B3 and B5, omega fatty acids and pure arctic spring water.
Derma E recently added Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Cloud Cleanser and the Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Overnight Facial to its roster. Enriched with hyaluronic acid and alkaline water, the products are said to deliver intense hydration to replenish even the driest skin—think a drink of water for the skin, according to the brand.
The Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Cloud Cleanser contains snow mushroom, an adaptogen used for thousands of years in Asian skin care that helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and lock in moisture. The new gel-to-foam cleanser provides a sensorial experience with its lightweight, cloud-like texture. The Ultra Hydrating Alkaline Overnight Facial was designed to offer an ultimate hydration experience while one sleeps. The cooling gel is formulated with aloe vera gel-infused moisture beads as well as alkaline water and hyaluronic acid.
Mass market stalwart Olay is also expanding its range with additional body skin care products that deliver unique components and sensorial experiences. The range includes Olay Body Milk, which is described as a lightweight formula infused with a fast-absorbing moisturizer to give dry skin 48-hour hydration; two body masks (featuring charcoal and kaolin clay); and a pair of Olay Body Exfoliating Powders (Pitaya & Cranberry Seed and Kiwi & Adzuki Seed) that are water-activated exfoliants.
P&G will look to these new Olay SKUs to build on past successes in body skin care. According to IRI, Olay Regenerist Body Anti-Aging sales rose 15% to $4.3 million last year, helping fuel growth of the small but rising body anti-aging category.
Similar growth was reported in other mass skin care categories (See chart p. 66). But that was then, and this is now—and change is inevitable.
“As the effects of the COVID-19 Pandemic continue to unfold, the shifts and impact in consumer buying habits are likely to focus on two key areas, practicality and psychology. Hand care and moisturizing products for excessively washed skin, along with products that promise to clean and protect from germs, have seen 15X the search traffic they saw this time last year. More importantly, retailers can’t keep them in stock,” said Kristi Bergeron, vice president brand and integrated marketing at Hatch Beauty Brands, which released a new report, “Here and Now, Beauty in a Post-COVID-19 Economy” in April.
“As consumers clamor to return to a sense of normalcy over the next three to 12 months, the fear of germs and the need for super clean everything isn’t going to dissipate quickly. We expect to see these needs extend into skin care trends for months, if not years, to come. Expect to see a rise in products that make strong claims surrounding efficacy and promise a new level of effectiveness against germs and environmental stressors. Additionally, we anticipate that while stories of sustainable, natural and clean won’t halt completely, they may take a back seat to the assurance of high-performance and germ-free moving forward,” added Bergeron.
Wilson of InstaNatural foresees a shift toward simplification.
“I think consumers may recognize that they don’t need long and complicated daily routines to be effective, and will start to see that less is more,” she told Happi. “I also think that right now consumers may be dedicating more time to things like masks and peels and this could lead to them making a more intentional effort to keep that going in their routines. Additionally, many of us are wearing less makeup since we are working from home—and I hope it leads to women embracing their natural skin without the need for heavy foundation. Finally, with things being so unknown for many—it is possible that consumers may look for budget-friendly alternatives to their current products, in which case I think consumers will see that they can achieve great results without having to spend a lot of money on products.”
Kline last month revised its forecast for the $75 billion US cosmetics and toiletries market. The market research group’s new outlook indicates a decline of 2.5% in 2020 as the most likely outcome, with the best-case scenario a 1.5% gain and the worst-case scenario an 8.1% drop.
Worrying about how one’s brand will fare in this new normal is sure to cause some wrinkles.