09.15.23
During the opening session of the Sunscreen Symposium, sponsored by the Florida Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Mark Chandler, ACT Solutions offered several ideas on how formulators can improve product performance and aesthetics.
"Different elements and materials improve the aesthetics of formulas," noted Chandler, adding that skin feel is driving consumer decisions.
What are some of the materials and processes that improve consumer acceptance? Chandler detailed several.
For example, he urged Symposium attendees not to be afraid of water.
"Make oil-in-water emulsions," he suggested. "They are said to be SPF inefficient, but people love the way they feel."
To compensate for a dropoff in protection, Chandler suggested formulators put half their oxides in oil and the other half in water.
"Divide and conquer," he insisted.
Chandler noted that the adhesion properties of the stratum corneum improves with age. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) were trendy a few years ago for their desquamation properties because they help thin SC without destroying it. Unfortunately, AHAs hinder sun protection attributes. Instead, Chandler said formulators should work with polyhydroxy acids (PHAs).
"They give you the benefits of AHAs without hindering sun protection," said Chandler.
"Different elements and materials improve the aesthetics of formulas," noted Chandler, adding that skin feel is driving consumer decisions.
What are some of the materials and processes that improve consumer acceptance? Chandler detailed several.
For example, he urged Symposium attendees not to be afraid of water.
"Make oil-in-water emulsions," he suggested. "They are said to be SPF inefficient, but people love the way they feel."
To compensate for a dropoff in protection, Chandler suggested formulators put half their oxides in oil and the other half in water.
"Divide and conquer," he insisted.
Chandler noted that the adhesion properties of the stratum corneum improves with age. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) were trendy a few years ago for their desquamation properties because they help thin SC without destroying it. Unfortunately, AHAs hinder sun protection attributes. Instead, Chandler said formulators should work with polyhydroxy acids (PHAs).
"They give you the benefits of AHAs without hindering sun protection," said Chandler.