Cosmetics Go Green

May 29, 2007

Industry insiders weigh in on today’s top trends in natural ingredients.

 Organic Oasis soothes the skin.
Cosmetics Go Green

Industry insiders weigh in on today’s top trends in natural ingredients.

Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor

From vitamin-infused body sprays to organic tinted sunscreens, for today’s consumers, it is simply not enough to have it all. They also want to feel better about what they have, according to the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI)’s 2007 Health and Wellness Trends Report.  This is reflected especially in the growing popularity in organic personal care products, along with the willingness to pay the 20% premium for them. Additionally, 59% of women indicate that 100% natural ingredients are very/somewhat important when purchasing personal care products, according to the NMI’s Evolution of Personal Care Database. As well as the higher demand for products that are deemed “safe but effective,” the natural skin care market has benefited from developments in packaging by the major manufacturers to create a fresher, more upscale appearance, said Euromonitor International, while a wider distribution has also attributed to the boom. After all, natural/organic products are no longer limited to health food and specialty shops, but are now available in both department stores and local supermarkets.

An increasing number of companies are actually excluding artificial colorings and preservatives from their products and introducing more natural ingredients in line with consumers’ demands, said Euromonitor, and some manufacturers are going a step further by using fair trade natural ingredients or acquiring companies known to produce organic or fair trade products. However, there are currently few regulations in place regarding the definition and labeling of products containing natural ingredients, and this is giving rise to growing skepticism among consumers as to the true naturalness of their contents, according to Euromonitor.

According to Carrie Mellage, director of consumer products at Kline & Co. of Little Falls, NJ, consumers are reading labels more than ever and are looking for ingredients that are plant-based or naturally derived as well as products containing local ingredients.

Rachael McFarland, cosmetics analyst for Chicago-based  marketing research firm Mintel said that most consumers look for buzzwords when shopping for naturals: “Perhaps they buy a product because it is ‘paraben-free,’  ‘preservative-free’ or simply because it is labeled ‘natural’ or ‘organic.’”

“Consumers have more information at their fingertips than ever before,” said Heather Halpern, a product developer at naturals industry pioneer Kiss My Face of Gardiner, N.Y. “The media and the internet have made it possible for everyone to be an armchair chemist. There are numerous websites and publications featuring information and misinformation about nearly every ingredient found in body care products.”

Red tea grape Vita spray
Familiar natural ingredients are also being widely used to market products, said Ms. McFarland, by being included in the product name or on the front of the package rather than simply listed in the ingredients on the back.  Vitamins A, C and E, aloe vera, green tea, white tea, pomegranate, lavender, ginseng, echinacea, gingko biloba, shea butter, cucumber, oatmeal, olive oil, chamomile, mango, algae, tea tree oil, honey, almond, jojoba, safflower oil, rose hip oil, beeswax and witch hazel are probably the most marketable natural ingredients, she said.

A Healthy Lifestyle

Susan Bernardo, marketing and communications manager of Upper Canada Soap & Candle Makers, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, said that shoppers are showing an interest in products that will help them attain a more healthful and natural lifestyle: “Consumers want personal care products that are as natural as the foods they eat. Just as proper nutrition is linked to overall body health, the same principles can also be applied to the body externally.”

The company responded to this trend with the launch of its “Naturally” Upper Canada brand, a bath and body care line ($7-$15) containing all-natural, plant-derived ingredients and free of parabens, mineral oils, synthetic dyes and sodium lauryl sulfate. Fragrances such as sweet vanilla fig and red tea grape are formulated using a combination of botanical extracts, oils and mineral complexes.

For 2007, the focus has been not only on “natural” ingredients, but more so on “organic” ingredients as well.

“With the proliferation of natural products and brands on the market, consumers are having a hard time differentiating between all of them, and seek out ways to verify and authenticate the natural claim,” said Laurence Diaco, marketing/public relations representative for  TerraNova of Berkeley, CA. “One way they are choosing to do this is by buying products made with organic ingredients which must be grown according to a standard set of government rules.”

As natural ingredients can now be found from high end to big box discounter brands, it is becoming crucial for independent companies like TerraNova, a pioneer in the natural personal care industry since 1970, to find a niche within this expanding market, adds Ms. Diaco. One way TerraNova has done so is by introducing a line of products this past year called Organic Oasis, made with 70% or more certified organic botanicals and rare essential oils while featuring “exotic and effective” key ingredients such as green coffee and yerba mate, tiare flower and white tea, ylang ylang and wild ginger. The mild products are also paraben-, sulfate- and dye-free, completely vegan and made without synthetic fragrances.

Organic and Natural

For Summer 2007, TerraNova launched seven certified organic hand washes infused with aloe, lavender, oat and chamomile to comfort and calm; shea butter and organic antioxidant white tea; plus organic comfrey, calendula and sweet almond for added nourishment ($7).

Ms. Halpern of Kiss My Face agrees that the biggest trend in naturals this year would have to be organic ingredients and products.

“Our own experience shows this trend accelerating with retail sales of our organic personal care products increasing 24% during 2006,” said Ms. Halpern, who refers to Kiss My Face’s Organic Face Care Line as an example. “Being concerned with what goes in and on one’s body is more accepted and mainstream than ever before. Now being green is cool; it’s not just for tree huggers anymore.”

Turn Back Time

Ingredients with anti-aging properties will also continue to enjoy a lot of success in the market, said Diaco, who suggested that mushroom extracts, pumpkin enzymes and fruit acids have seen a lot of growth this year. In addition, finely milled bamboo powder is becoming more commonly used in scrubs as an exfoliant: “Since bamboo is the fastest growing plant on earth, it is a great ingredient for promoting sustainability and lends itself well to the natural/organic claims.”

Von Natur includes cleansing marine-based components.
Elisabeth Masse, project manager for product development at the naturals-heavy personal care company Fruits & Passion of Quebec, Canada, said for facial products, items that contain antioxidant properties are very popular right now. For example, the chardonnay grape, which is present in Fruits & Passions’ Defense face care products ($22-$35), is rich in vitamins B1, B2, B5, B6, B9 and E, mineral salts and fruit acids. The main active components are called polyphenols, which are the tannins integrated into wine.

Green tea, a staple in antioxidants, is showing up more as a natural component. Proactiv, the skin care collection endorsed by numerous celebrity spokespeople, recently introduced a moisturizer ($25) infused with Green Tea EGCG, an extract potent with anti-inflammatory antioxidants that helps fight acne while providing hydration to skin without the greasy feel.

The robust pomegranate is also a popular antioxidant featured in current products. Burt’s Bees (ww.burtsbees.com) use this natural ingredient to create a new variation of one of its mainstays, the Replenishing Lip Balm with Pomegranate Oil ($3).

Fresh from the Sea

Besides pointing to pomegranate extracts, Theresa Robison, vice president of business development for Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, Ltd. of Great Barrington, MA, noted that marine-based features are still very big as far as ingredients are concerned. 

“We are re-formulating some of our most popular products in 2007, including the addition of algae extracts to our PureLash Mascara,” said Ms. Robison. “We are also adding two new sea mineral extracts to our pressed and loose base formulas, which have been shown to have a nutritive effect on the skin, as well as helping sooth sensitivity, optimize the moisture content of the epidermis and protect against UV radiation.”

Fruits & Passion features the slimming power of pineapple extract.
Von natur, an organic vegan skin and body care line from Portland, OR, also features marine ingredients in its “Exquisite” bath line’s Blue Green Algae Body Polish ($19.99), which cleanses, increases blood circulation, improves the elimination of waste products and aids in healing minor wounds and irritated skin.

And in tune with all that’s aquatic, Method of San Francisco, CA recently released a naturally-derived body and skin care line called Bloq ($6-$8) — the name stemming from its square packaging — with a “Beach Sage” flavor.

Bountiful Fruits and Vegetables

Using natural and/or organic ingredients sourced from Egypt is becoming more commonplace as well, according to Ms. McFarland of Mintel.

“Some say that natural skin care can be traced back to Egypt and the Middle East, so perhaps this is why this an up-and-coming trend,” said Ms. McFarland, citing Pangea Organics Facial Cleanser Egyptian Calendula & Blood Orange ($21.99) as an example. Caldendula is known for its soothing qualities, while the orange balances skin tone.

Upper Canada Soap is also on the citrus bandwagon. Ms. Bernardo told Happi that that in the gourmet food industry, blood oranges continue to grow in popularity, and that not only can consumers expect to see this item pop up in new recipes, they will also see this citrus fruit appear on the ingredient deck of their personal care products. In September 2007, Upper Canada will be introducing an additional fragrance, Cranberry Moro Orange, to its “Naturally” line, as both cranberries and blood oranges are deemed to be super foods when it comes to skin care, both help restore lost moisture leading to a natural glow.

Jason Natural Products of Boulder, CO introduced Cranberry Hand & Body Lotion, Body Wash and Satin Soap ($6.75-$12.75) as part of their holiday gift set, but now they’re a permanent part of the body care line.

Besides enticing cranberry and oranges that are big this season as ingredients, who knew the same juicy fruit used in tropical drinks also helps tone the hips, waist and thighs?  Known as “the slimming fruit,” pineapple—particularly the stem—has been found by researchers to contain a valuable enzyme called bromelaine.  The stimulating action of this enzyme boosts the slimming process and helps improve the appearance and tone of skin.

Fruits & Passion recently introduced its Pineapple Slimming Ritual, a four-step beauty treatment that includes a shower cream ($12), exfoliating cream ($14), slimming serum ($36) and body butter ($20) all featuring natural ingredients.

Aubrey's promotes natural protection from the sun.
By way of vegetables, Dr. Andrew Weil, the white-bearded health guru, focused his integrative health approach on a skin care line for Origins called Plantidote that features “highly effective” proprietary blends of hypsizygus ulmarius, cordyceps and reishi mushrooms accompanied by ginger, turmeric and holy basil. As reported by Origins, 84% of clientele said that their skin was soothed and calmed by Dr. Weil’s Plantidote.

This August, Origins adds the Mega-Mushroom Body Cream ($45) to the Plantidote collection. With the six key ingredients listed above, the body cream also helps shed old cells and build new ones with natural galactoarabinan (larch tree extract) and castanea sativa (chestnut seed extract).  A blend of olive oil, jojoba oil, shea butter and cocoa butter help to wrap skin in much needed moisture, while the essential oils of geranium, patchouli, lavender and mandarin leave skin scented.

Sun Kissed and Specialized

Numerous marketers are catching on to all-natural sun in the fun. According to Karen Ness, director of global sales at Aubrey Organics (www.aubrey-organics.com), sun care has been marketed in the natural products channel for several years. However, the trend is more the mass market tapping into the natural segment with marketing terms for “natural” sunscreens.

“Natural sunscreens take extra care in formulating than mass produced sunscreens,” said Ms. Ness. “Theoretically, [the] FDA requires ingredients in sun care formulations for SPF protection that are not accepted under current organic regulations. Some companies may choose to ignore those regulations and make organic claims on products for marketing of a product, rather than make a natural formulation.”

Aubrey Organics has marketed all-natural sun care products for more than 20 years in their collection, and this summer is expanding the line to include a Natural Sun Tinted Sunscreen SPF 20 ($8.50) formulated with a mineral tint that allows the sunscreen to blend into the skin. 

All Aubrey Organics sun products feature “Aubrey’s Preservative,” a natural cosmetic component invented by founder Aubrey Hampton more than 25 years ago consisting of citrus seed extract and vitamins.

According to Leonid Markman, founder and president of Nature Pure Labs  of Brooklyn, NY, the most commonly used and easily formulated sunscreen ingredients are 100% synthetic materials - however, chemists at multiple laboratories recently have been formulating sunscreen with a relatively high SPF using only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (considered as natural substances) as sun protecting agents.

This summer, Nature Pure Labs Nature Pure Labs is releasing its Ultra Light MoistureScreen Mist SPF 15 ($25.99), a portable spray-on moisturizer and sun protection product with a formulation of allantoin, aloe leaf juice and red hippophae berry oil (sea buckthorn).

Kiss My Face facial skin care products are infused with vitamins and botanicals.
Another industry leader, Kiss My Face, is rolling out its new Cell Mate 15 facial crème and sunscreen, part of the new Obsessively Organic line, this summer.  Cell Mate 15 ($15) is 72 % certified organic. Antioxidant-rich vitamins and botanicals promote cell growth as aromatherapeutic essential oils revitalize the complexion with SPF protection.

For those looking for a glow by way of natural ingredients, Tarte is debuting its new Sunburst line for Summer 2007. Sunburst body ($39) is an all-natural, beaded bronzing lotion with DHA-based self-tanner—the first ever in its genre. Its “skinvigorating” ingredients also include  vitamins A, C and E and a blend of glycerine and plant-derived emollients to moisturize and hydrate the skin.

Maureen Kelly, CEO and creator of Tarte Cosmetics of New York, N.Y., sums up the natural ingredients market frenzy:  “The beauty industry can no longer ignore the voice of the ‘green consumer’ … it’s not just about a pretty shade of lip gloss or that perfect hint of color. They’re requiring that cosmetic companies commit to creating more natural-based, preservative-free products that are naturally fragranced and also give them healthy skin.”

Looking for a new natural ingredient for your personal care product? Here's a list of new materials introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months.

Natural New Ingredients

BC Research, Inc.

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: (201)791-6072
E-mail: thrubec@bcresearchusa.com
Website: www.bcresearchusa.com


INCI name: Polygonum cuspidatum root extract
Use levels: 0.5 - 10%
Applications: Facials, skin care
Comments: Antioxidant, soothing agent, photo protector, skin tone lightener

Bell Flavors & Fragrances

Tel: (800)323-4387
E-mail: info@bellff..com
Website: www.bellff.com

Darjeeling Extract

INCI name: Propylene glycol, water, camellia sinensis leaf extract, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid
Use levels: 0.1-1.0%
Applications: Personal care
Comments: This tea extract has naturally occurring flavonoids, which have strong antioxidant properties.

Mutamba Extract/Apricot Kernel Oil

INCI name: Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, guazuma ulmifolia extract)
Use levels: 0.1-1.0%
Applications: Personal care
Comments: Toning

Chamomile Extract in Jojoba Oil

INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) flower extract
Use levels: 0.1-1.0%
Applications: Personal care
Comments: Certified organic emollient

BioChemica International

Norwalk, CT
Tel: (321) 254-3444
E-mail: sales@biochemica.com
Website: www.biochemica.com

Brazil Nut Butter

INCI name: Berthorlletia excelsa seed oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil
Use levels: Lotions and creams: 3-5%, balms: 5-100%, bar soaps: 3-6%, hair conditioners: 2-5%
Applications: Cosmetics, toiletries, bar soaps, massage oils, hair care and sun care applications. 
Comments:  The butter acts on cutaneous dryness, forming a film that impedes evaporation of moisture from the skin. The oil is rich in fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic, with small amounts of myristic and stearic acids, along with phytosterol. We combine this  nutrient-rich oil with our proprietary exotic butter base.

Lavender Butter

INCI name: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (almond) oil, lavandula angustifolia extract, hydrogenated vegetable oil
Use levels: 3%-100% in formulations
Applications: Creams, lotions, body and lip balms, bar soaps
Comments: With this product, you not only get the clinically proven power of lavender which produces soothing, calming effects, but you also get it in a luxurious, easy-to-use butter base. It is completely oil miscible and contains no preservatives or coloring agents.

Orange Butter

INCI name: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil and citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax and hydrogenated vegetable oil
Use levels: 3%-100%
Applications: May be used in cosmetics, toiletries, soaps, massage oils/balms, hair care and sun care preparations.
Comments:  Adds moisturizing attributes to creams and lotions and bar soaps. The natural oil contains limonene, which is a very effective free radical scavenger. Orange peel oil has a cleansing and toning effect on skin and can improve oily, acne prone skin. Also contained in the butter is orange peel wax, which contains a high level of bioflavonoids (polyphenols).

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Tel: 336-801-2126
E-mail:  hpc.northamerica@cibasc.com
Website: www.cibasc.com/personalcare

Tinoderm SG-L

INCI name: Sclerotium gum (active ingredient)
Use levels: 0.5%-5%
Applications: Facial makeup, lip products, skin care, body wash/shower gel, deodorant, liquid soap
Comments: Preservative free and 100% natural moisturizer. Natural sclerotium gum with excellent moisturization and skin soothing properties.

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium

Berlin, Germany
Tel: 49-30-85-10-26-0
E-mail:  info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com

Cutipure CLR

INCI name: Water and hydnocarpus kurzii oil and nigella sativa seed oil and leptospermum scoparium oil and potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids and palm glycerides and caprloyl glycine and magnolia officinalis bark 
Use levels: 3%
Applications: Cutipure CLR has multiple rebalancing effects on elevated sebum production and the formation and regulation of pimples, pustules and comedones. Designed for O/W formulations and gels for application to oily, mixed and impure skin conditions. 
Comments:  The active has strong anti-inflammatory/antibacterial properties.

Yeast Complex B

INCI name: Water and alcohol and faex (yeast) extract and thiamin HCl and pyridoxine HCl.
Use levels: 2%
Applications: For skin with excessive secretion of sebum, i.e., fatty skin with a poor complexion. Preparations are also suitable for application to scalps with strong secretion of sebum. 
Comments: A composition of organic yeast extract and natural identical thiamin (vitamin B1) and pyridoxine (vitamin B6). Contains no preservative.


INCI name: Bellis perennis (daisy) flower extract
Use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Provides even pigmentation against age spots, pigmentation disorders and freckles as well as general skin lightening activity.
Comments:  Skin lightening agent derived from daisy flowers.


Dusseldorf, Germany
Tel: +34 93 773 00 57
Email: Silvia.Martinez@cognis.com
Website: www.cognis


INCI: Aloe barbadensis Leaf Extract
Use levels: 1 - 3 %
Applications: Personal care ( Face care, body care, sun care, after sun, hair care, etc) and Home Care ( manual dishwashing liquids, softeners, special detergents, all purpouse cleaners, etc.).
Comments: Aloveria is the holistic and genuine Aloe Vera gel providing a lot of benefits for the skin such as moisture, calm, skin protection, anti-oxidant and anti-aging.

Emulgin SG

INCI: Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Applications: Skin care (e.g., face care, body care, sun care, facial
cleansing etc.)
Comments: Eumulgin SG is a highly effective O/W
emulsifier with excellent electrolyte compatibility including water-soluble
UV filters. It is very flexible in formulations and shows a good
compatibility with commonly used emulsion raw materials.

Cosmochem International, LTD.

Steinhausen, Switzerland
Tel: 00-41-41-748-33-33
E-mail: info@cosmetochem.ch
Website: www.cosmetochem.com

Wheat Herbaprotein

INCI name: Hydrolysed wheat protein
Use levels: 0.2-2%
Applications: For use as a hair and skin conditioner, anti-aging products, sun care, bath and shower, liquid and bar soaps, decorative cosmetics, face powder, liquid foundation and mascara
Comments: A botanical active with claims data for hair substantivity, free radical scavenging activity, reduction of surfactant irritancy and foam enhancement. It is water-soluble, gluten-free, preservative-free and 100% plant-derived.   

Croda, Inc.

Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
E-mail: marketing@crodausa.com
Website: www.crodausa.com

Crodarom Purple Orchid

INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) orchis mascula extract
Use levels: 1.0–3.0%
Applications: Moisturizing creams, luxury cosmetics, smoothing body lotions  and milks, conditioning hair care, shower gels and body washes, night cosmetic treatments
Comments: Obtained from controlled cultivation, it is offered in compliance with CITES law, which prohibits use of plants endangered in the wilderness.  This worldwide symbol of perfection is ideal for luxurious and indulgent products for the skin or hair.

Crodarom White Truffle

INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) tuber aestivum extract
Use levels: 1.0–3.0%
Applications: Mature skin care, eye serums, salon hair care, facial care for men, milk baths
Comments: A water-soluble extract of the white truffle, an ancient edible delicacy, it lends an air of prestige and opulence to any formulation.

Phytotal AW

INCI name: Glycerin (and) water (and) butylene glycol (and) alchemilla vulgaris Extract (and) zizyphus jujuba fruit extract (and) thymus serpillum extract (and) lecithin
Use levels: 1.0–5.0%
Applications: Anti-aging skin care, eye and lip contour creams, décolleté creams, men’s care
Comments: A synergistic complex of hydro-soluble and volatile components of jujube, wild thyme and lady’s mantle formulated into a liposome microemulsion and is clinically proven to reduce the depth of fine lines and wrinkles.

Desert Whale Jojoba Company

Tucson, AZ
Tel: (520) 882-4195
E-mail: marketing@desertwhale.com
Website: www.desertwhale.com

Jojoba Hydrate BG

INCI name: Jojoba alcohol (and) potassium jojobate (and) butylene glycol
Use levels: 3–30%
Applications: Shave cream, lotion, shower gel, shampoo, anti-frizz gel, conditioning spray
Comments: Acts as the primary emulsifier in a formulation.  It provides conditioning, improves comb-ability and increases shine in the hair and is proven to increase skin hydration.

Jojoba Pro HP

INCI name: Hydrolyzed jojoba protein Use levels: 1–6%
Applications: Shampoo/conditioner, anti-aging products, hair treatment products, moisturizers
Comments: Hydrolyzed jojoba protein from jojoba (simmondsia chinensis) seed.  Conditions the skin with its moisture retention and film forming properties, and improves the body, shine and smoothness of hair.

Jojoba Butter Beads

INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter (and) hydrogenated jojoba oil
Use levels: 1–10%
Applications: Exfoliating cleansers, lotions, face and body treatments
Comments: A multi-purpose bead offering gentle exfoliation and moisturization while releasing actives. These crushable spheres melt into the skin upon rub-in.

Eastman Chemical Company

Tel: (423) 229-4898
E-mail: nekinkade@eastman.com
Web: www.eastmanpersonalcare.com


INCI name: Oryza sativa (rice) bran oil extract
Use levels: 0.5%-5%
Applications: A premium, natural ingredient perfectly suited for inclusion in topical skin and face creams, sun care and lip care products.
Comments: A powerful antioxidant complex that nourishes, soothes and protects the skin and lips through a combination of naturally occurring components.

Grant Industries, Inc.

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: (201)791-8700
E-mail: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com


INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) water (and) polysilicone-11 (and) amino
butyric acid (and) barium sulfate (and) panax ginseng root extract (and) portulaca oleracea extract (and) centella asiatica
Use levels: 35%
Applications: Wrinkle reduction
Comments: Wrinkle freeze, GABA synapse effects, line erase, ion channel
blocking botanicals and soft focus

Granpowder Diamond

INCI name: Diamond powder
Use levels: N/A
Applications: Soft focus, skin care, “bling in a jar.”
Comments: Up to “one carat” in every jar
Micronized natural diamond powder.

Induchem USA

Tel: (212) 756-9918
E-mail: salesusa@induchem.com
Website: www.induchem.com

Uniprosyn PS-18

INCI name: Butylene glycol, hydrolyzed oat protein, niacinamide, adenosine triphosphate
Use levels: 3%
Applications: Anti-aging creams
Comments:  Accelerates the natural protein synthesis of skin, which slows down with age; reduces wrinkle depth; improves skin smoothness.

International Sourcing Inc.

Tel: (201) 560-0111
E-mail: isi@insourcenj.com
Website: www.internationalsourcinginc.com

Hibiscus Exfoliator 500

INCI name: Hibiscus sabdariffa flower powder
Use levels: up to 10% in body exfoliation formulas
Applications: For use in creams, gel, paste or powders
Comments:  Rich in anti-aging properties and stimulattion of skin cells for renewal and lightening of the skin


INCI name: Phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol
Use levels: 0.6–1.2%
Applications: For use in natural formulations for skin sensitive     and baby care products.
Comments: Multifunctional system contributing to skin     moisturization, enhancement of wetting properties, ability to impart a pleasant skin-feel and mild rose-like fragrance while controlling microbial growth in personal care products.

Kalahari Melon Seed Oil

INCI name: Citrillus lanatus (kalahari melon) seed oil
Use levels: 0.2–5%
Applications: Face, hand or body creams
Comments: Moisturizing, regenerating and restructuring properties

Jeen International

Tel:  (973) 439-1401
E-mail:  info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com

BP Phytocollagen

INCI name: Poly-glutamic acid, poly-fructose
Use levels: 1-2.50%
Applications: Skin care formulations, treatment serums and moisturizing body and facial  wash systems.
Comments: A fermentation product of soybean that is excellent for moisturizing and skin nourishing properties. It also shows a good lubrication and  spread. The main components are amino acid polymer (alpha-poly glutamic acid; MW 100,000-1,000,000) and fructose polymers.

BP Gen-90

INCI name: Genistein
Use levels: 1.00-2.00%
Applications: For use in treatment formulations targeting damaged skin and inhibition of 5-alpha reductase.
Comments: A skin permeable aglycone that is used as an agent of anti-wrinkle and cure of UV damage.

BP Glucan

INCI name: Beta-glucan
Use levels: 0.50-1.5.0%
Applications: Anti-irritation, moisturizing formulations for damaged skin.
Comments: A highly purified beta-1,6-branched-beta-1,3-glucan extracted from liquid fermented mycelia of a unique fungal strain that has a high molecular weight profile of approximately 3.5 million.

Kaden Biochemicals

Tel: 49-40-736045-0
E-mail:  info@kaden.de
Website: www.kaden.de


INCI name: Betulin
Use levels: 0.05 - 0.2 %
Applications: Hair care, skin care, bath and shower products
Comments: Anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antioxidant


INCI name: Fucose
Use levels: 0.2 - 0.5 %
Applications: Hair care, skin care
Comments: Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

Laboratoires Serobiologiques - Division of Cognis France

in the U.S. :
Ambler, PA       
Sylvia Nefkens
Mobile:  215-872-2864
Fax:      215-628-1450
E-mail: sylvia.nefkens@cognis.com
In France:
Paris, France
Tel: +33 (0)144 79 95 17
Fax : +33 (0)144 79 95 01
E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis.com
Website: www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

LS’Entielles Ressource

INCI:  Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Tarchonanthus Camphoratus Oil
Applications: Anti-aging treatments for face and body, night creams, detoxifying care, regenerating spa therapy, active scents and toiletries, pillow spray, anti-free radical shampoo
Use levels: 0.5 - 1%
Comments: An extract from the African camphor bush that has demonstrated an anti-free radical activity to ensure skin protection against stress.

LS’Entielle Spiritualité

INCI:  Butylene glycol (and) michelia alba leaf oil
Applications: Calming face and body care, pillow spray, meditation spa products, scents and active toiletries de-stressing hair care
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: A fragrant extract of white sandalwood to stimulate the regeneration of terminal nerve endings and thus restore skin balance.

LS'Entielle Volupté

INCI: Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil (and) schinus terebinthifolius seed extract
Applications: Indulgent face and body treatments, seductive spa therapy, active scents and toiletries, sensual massage oils and balms for skin and scalp, stimulating hair mask
Use levels: 0.5-1%
Comments: An extract of a Brazilian pepper tree that increases the release of dopamine, the molecule of well-being.

Lebermuth Company, Inc.

Tel:  (800) 648-1123
E-mail:  info@lebermuth.com
Website: www.lebermuth.com

Tea Tree Heart

INCI name: Melaleuca alternifolia
Use levels: .05-1%
Applications: General use in cosmetics
Comments: Through concentration of the active components of tea tree oil, it is able to provide the therapeutic properties of tea tree revolutionized into an exclusive, appealing aroma ideal for personal care use. 100% natural with no preservatives.

McIntyre Group, Ltd.

University Park, IL
Tel: 708-534-6200
E-mail: infous@mcintyregroup.com
Website: www.mcintyregroup.com

Mackaderm CEB

INCI name: Cetyl babassuate
Use levels: 5%-15%
Applications: Skin care creams and lotions, color cosmetics
Comments: 100% vegetable-derived emollient and solvent made from organically certified babassu oil. Provides a lubricious, velvety feel while imparting gloss and slip.

Mackaderm Cotton-LIN

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate and hydrogenated cottonseed oil
Use levels: 5%-15%
Applications: Skin care creams and lotions, color cosmetics
Comments: 100% vegetable-derived lanolin replacement, skin conditioner, occlusive agent and barrier. A soft and substantive feel with less tack and greasiness than lanolin. It presents a pleasant, sweet characteristic odor compared to the typical lanolin smell.

Mackaderm LTM-V

INCI name: Glycine soja (soybean oil) and hydrogenated cottonseed oil
Use levels: 5%-15%
Applications: Skin care creams and lotions, color cosmetics
Comments: 100% vegetable-derived petrolatum replacement and melt point adjuster for color cosmetics. It has a glossy effect and incorporates an occlusive barrier and a medium and substantive feel to lotions.

Micro Powders, Inc.

Tel: (914) 793 4058
E-mail:  mpi@micropowders.com
Website: www.MPIpersonalcare.com.

Naturebead G20

INCI name: Cetyl esters/oryza sativa (rice) bran wax/olea europaea (olive) fruit oil
Use levels: 1.0% - 10.0%
Applications: Exfoliating scrub soaps, exfoliating face scrubs, body scrubs, foot scrubs, creams, liquids, gels and lotions.
Comments: Spherical shape that rubs out onto the skin.

Natural Sourcing

Tel: (800) 340-0080
Email: info@naturalsourcing.com
Website: www.naturalsourcing.com

Clear Organic Jojoba

INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil
Use levels: 1-100%
Applications: Our clear organic jojoba is a highly beneficial ingredient for organic moisturizers and skin care formulations. Suitable for all skin types. Helps minimize scars and wrinkles. It is a natural anti-inflammatory well suited for massage, arthritis and aromatherapy formulations. Also is a useful superfatting agent for soap making.
Comments:  Organic, colorless, odorless, light, non-greasy, stable and resists rancidity. Offers the traits of both an oil and wax. Closely resembles the natural sebum within our skin. Highly penetrating and moisturizing for skin, hair, massage and aromatherapy applications. Non-comogenic with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties.

Organic CO2 Pomegranate Oil

INCI name: Punica granatum (pomegranate) oil
Use levels: 2-100%
Applications: Recommended for use in products intended for mature, aging, dry or cracked skin. It is especially beneficial to treat skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and sun damage. Beneficial in topical anti-cancer and free radical formulations.
Comments: Extracted using supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) process. Balances skin pH, improves skin elasticity, and is highly moisturizing. Strong anti-inflammatory and natural plant source of CLA (punicic acid).

Acai Pulp Oil

INCI name: Euterpe oleracea (acai) pulp oil
Use levels: 2-100%
Applications: Highly moisturizing, emollient and nourishing for maturing skin, damaged skin and conditions including eczema. Recommended for anti-aging and after-sun care formulations. Acai oil is a powerful anti-inflammatory well-suited for massage and arthritis applications. Restores dry, damaged hair. Protects the skin from free radical damage.
Comments: Possesses a significantly high concentration of omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 essential fatty acids including linoleic acid and oleic acid. Has powerful anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Rich in Vitamin C, polyphenols and phytosterols including B-sitosterol, campesterol and stigmasterol.


Tel: 33-555-84-5- 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr


INCI name: Water and avena sativa (oat) kernel extract
Use levels: 1-4%
Applications: Recommended in all skin care and make-up products for its immediate esthetic benefits
Comments:  A natural polyoses purified fraction obtained from oats. It is able to perfectly fit the skin microrelief thanks to its tri-dimensional and high molecular weight configuration. Thus, it has an immediate smoothing/ lifting effect visible at the skin surface.


INCI name: Water and hydrolyzed myrtus communis leaf extract
Use levels: 1-4%
Applications: Reduces skin-aging signs and is recommended for face care products to maintain skin youthness.
Comments: An oligosaccharides purified fraction obtained from myrtle. This active ingredient favors the expression of markers specifically involved in cellular longevity, regulates intercellular signalling pathways and limits the phenomenon of glycation.


INCI name: Butylene glycol and water and nelumbo nucifera leaf extract
Use levels: 1-4%
Applications: Reduces the cellulite phenomenon; recommended in slenderizing and draining body care products.
Comments: Reduces fat storage by stimulating the synthesis of SIRT-1, limits the inflammation of the adipose tissue by boosting the expression of adiponectin and preserves the architecture of the ECM.

Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd.

Tel: 61-2-6687-8828
E-mail: info@scbotanicals.com.au
Website: www.scbotanicals.com.au

Melafresh T96

INCI name: Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil
Use levels: 0.5-1%
Applications: Natural preservative, anti-acne, anti-dandruff.
Comments: Broad spectrum anti-microbial, anti-irritant, natural

Melafresh T10-SLR

INCI name: Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil and cyclodextrin
Use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Controlled release natural active ingredient for anti-acne, anti-ageing, blemish control, after-sun and environmental protecant.
Comments: Slow release, virtually odorless, natural, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant.

Melafresh TEX-WS

INCI name: Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf extract and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and polysorbate 20 and water.
Use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Natural antibacterial for transparent facial cleansers, body wash and hand wash.
Comments: Water-soluble natural anti-microbial for clear liquids, emulsions and gels.


Tel: 33-155-46-28-26
Email: scentandcare@symrise.com
Website: www.symrise.com


INCI name: Bisabolol, zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract
Use levels: 0.1 - 0.2%
Applications: Skin protection and skin care preparations (creams, lotions and ointments), sunscreen products, after-sun preparations, hair conditioners, care-products following depilation and cold wave, after-shave, oral care
Comments:  Pale yellow to yellow-brown clear oil

TRI-K Industries

Tel: (201) 750-1055
E-mail: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com

Flax-Tein Pro

INCI name: Hydrolyzed flax protein
Use levels: 1 - 10%
Applications: Skin care and hair care
Comments:  A new soothing and moisturizing protein for skin and hair care.  Derived from the flax plant, it is rich in protein, Omega-3 and alpha-linolenic acid, and imparts moisturization and nourishment to the skin and hair with film-forming capabilities.

Melanobronze from Mibelle

INCI name: Vitex agnus castus extract (and) acetyl tyrosine (and) glycerin (and) alcohol (and) water
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Sun protection and self-tanning products
Comments: Actively stimulates natural melanin formation in the skin, even without exposure to the sun.  Utilizing Monk’s pepper extract (vitex agnus castus), it gradually builds up a healthy looking tan while protecting the skin from UV-induced damage.

Vertellus Performance Materials Inc.

Tel: (973) 515-0096
E-mail: srogers@vertellus.com
Website: www.vertellus.com

Naturechem Shea - Refined

INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Use levels: 1-25%
Applications: Skin care moisturizers and body washes.
Comments: Provides exceptional emollient properties and contains natural anti-inflammatory and anti-UV components.  Refined using an environmentally-friendly, water-based process leaving no residual hydrocarbon solvent contaminants.

Naturechem Shea-UR

INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Use levels: 1-25%
Applications: Skin care moisturizers and body washes.
Comments: An “unrefined” shea butter with emollient properties and maintains the maximum concentration of naturally occurring anti-inflammatory and anti-UV components through minimal processing.


INCI name: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil (and) hydrogenated castor oil
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Skin care, lip care and ethnic hair care formulations
Comments: Vegetable-derived alternative to petrolatum.  Provides moisturizing and enhanced gloss to skin and lip care products. Excellent UV stability when compared to petrolatum.

Zschimmer & Schwarz GMBH & Co.

Tel: 49(0)2621-12262
E-mail: surfactants@zschimmer-schwarz.de
INCI name: Sodium PCA, glycerin, water
Use levels: 0.2-5%
Applications: Creams, lotions, shampoo, shower gel
Comments: Moisturizer/ humectant for leave-on and rinse-off products.

Protelan LPC

INCI name: Lauryl PCA
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Lipstick, lip balm, lip gloss, hair oil, hair wax, creams, lotions
Comments: Emollient with moisturizing properties. Decreases the stickiness of lip gloss.