Formulary

Tightening Double-Effect Eye Cream

Released by AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, Personal Care Applications

January 1, 2014


Phase A
Deionized water
76.77
Dissolvine NA2-S chelate (AkzoNobel Functional Chemicals) (Disodium EDTA)
0.10
Flexan II polymer (AkzoNobel Personal Care) (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
3.00
Propylene glycol (Sinopharm Chemical)
3.00
Structure XL starch (AkzoNobel Personal (Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate)
1.00
Carbopol 940 (Lubrizol)
0.40

Phase B
Montanov 68 (Seppic )(Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside)
1.50
Arlacel 165 (Croda, Inc.) (Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate)
1.00
Lanette O (BASF) (Cetearyl alcohol)
2.00
Cetiol SB 45 (BASF) (Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter))
1.00
Cetiol CC (BASF) (Dicaprylyl carbonate)
3.50
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 cs (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)
1.00

Phase C
Triethanolamine-99% (Dow Chemical)
0.40
Hydrovance moisturizing agent (50% solids) (AkzoNobel Personal Care) (Hydroxyethyl urea)
2.00
Citroflex 2 (Vertellus Performance Materials Inc.) (Triethyl citrate)
0.18
Citric acid (Sinopharm Chemical)
0.01
Tri-Sodium citrate dihydrate (Sinopharm Chemical)
0.04

Phase D
Dry-Flo TS starch (AkzoNobel Personal Care) (Tapioca starch (and) polymethylsilsesquioxane)
2.00
Dry-Flo Pure starch (AkzoNobel Personal Care) (Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate)
1.00

Phase E
Euxyl K220 (schülke & mayr) (Methylisothiazolinone (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) water)
0.10

Procedure
To the main vessel, add deionized water, Dissolvine NA2-S chelate and propylene glycol. Mix until dissolved using a propeller with moderate speed. Sprinkle in Carbopol 940, and mix until dispersed. Then add Flexan II polymer and Structure XL starch, one at a time. Ensure that the polymers are hydrated and homogeneously dispersed. Begin to heat phase A to 75-80°C. Combine phase B in a side kettle and mix with a propeller at moderate speed, heating to 75-80°C. Slowly add phase B into phase A under a homogenizer with moderate speed. Emulsify for 1 minute. Switch the batch to propeller, and begin cooling the batch to 65°C while mixing. Neutralize the batch with triethanolamine. Mix moderately for 10 minutes until uniform. Add the remaining ingredients from phase C, and mix until homogeneous. Continue to cool the batch to 45°C. Add phase D at low speed under the homogenizer. Move the beaker around to allow full incorporation of the starches, approximately 10 minutes. Add phase E, and mix until homogeneous. Switch the batch to a sweep blade, and cool to room temperature. Drop the batch.

Properties
pH—6-7; Viscosity—18000-30000 cps (Brookfield viscometer RVDV-II+, RV 6#, 10 rpm, 25 ºC); Appearance—White Cream; Color—White; Packaging—Dual-tube bottle.

More Information
AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry Personal Care 888-331-6212 • Fax: 908-707-3664 Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com www.akzonobel.com/PersonalCare
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