Color with Confidence

By Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor | August 1, 2014

Powerful pigments, unique forms and skin care benefits will fuel the makeup marketplace in the upcoming year.

Sangria, an exotic red that evokes a sense of glamorous adventures and faraway destinations, opposes Aurora Red, a more sophisticated shade that adds verve and spark. Mauve Mist, a romantic and elegant purple shade, reminds us of the deco era and stimulates a sense of femininity and empowerment; while Radiant Orchid, a captivating and adaptable shade, enchants the complete spectrum.

Pair either with Cypress, a majestic and powerful green; indicative of its name, this shade has a towering presence and serves as a stunning perennial.

For Fall 2014, color cosmetics are inspired by everything from books, artisan crafts, photographs and retro architecture, according to global color authority Pantone. 

“This is a season of untypical colors—more reflective of the imagination and ingenuity, which makes for an artful collection of colors and combinations not bound by the usual hues for fall,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “There is a feminine mystique that is reflected throughout the palette, inspired by the increasing need for women everywhere to create an individual imprint.”

Luis Casco, celebrity makeup artist for Mary Kay, agreed.

“This was one of the most elegant seasons that I’ve seen in a while,” he told Happi. “American and European designers seemed to be embracing a sense of opulence and the makeup reflected that. I loved seeing this elegance that was achieved by using different textures, for instance, by combining a matte lipstick with a shimmery eyeshadow.”

Recent data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) proves that eye cosmetics are on the rise, as sales increased 1.09% to $1.97 billion in total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended June 15, 2014.

According to the data, mascara makes up the bulk of sales, $950.5 million, with a 1.2% increase in sales.

During the same period, facial color cosmetics sales stayed almost flat, rising just 0.15% to $1.8 billion, reported the Chicago-based market research firm. Foundation, the largest component of face SKUs, fell 1.5% to $948.0 million. Lip colors fell 1.7% to $735.9 million—but the largest seller, lipstick, climbed 4.1% to $511.2 million. Former rising star, nail polish, slipped 8.7% to $827.3 million in the mass market, according to IRI’s report.

Prestige US department store sales rose this year, as eye/lip/face makeup sales increased 2% to $1.6 billion in the January-May 2014 period, according to The NPD Group, Inc./BeautyTrends.

According to Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group, this is the first time in five years that makeup is outpacing skin care in growth. Both niche and designer brands are capitalizing on using classic elements with a new twist in color cosmetics.

“It’s not a revolution but an evolution,” she told Happi about this rising trend.

Consumers are also craving multi-use makeup SKUs, noted Sarah Lucero, celebrity makeup artist for Stila Cosmetics, Los Angeles.

“Shoppers are looking for a one-stop shop! [They want] those multi-use products that give them more bang for their buck.  The ones where they can grab them, throw them in their purse and know that it’s the first thing they pull out when they need a touchup…they want something that is going to make them look beautiful and help them at the same time.”

Certainly, the technology is lining up with the market’s expectations, agree industry insiders.

“Women are very savvy and are now looking for ‘tried and true’ cosmetics with innovative concepts,” said Lori Taylor-Davis, director, global pro lead artistry, Smashbox, Los Angeles. “They are expecting long-wear formulas, optimal blendability and a ‘camera ready’ mindset translated to daily life.”

Critical Components
So, what exactly will be fueling the color marketplace during the next year? Illustrious ingredients to start, agree industry insiders.

“Color is really exploding and continues to be an arena for self-expression and emotional reward,” noted Nikola Milivojevic, president of BeautiControl, Dallas, TX. “We’re seeing an extreme trend in lip and eye that’s playing out in high intensity, saturated lip colors, dramatic and thicker eye liners, mega volume mascaras and textured and glitter nail finishes. We’re also seeing a multi-tasking/multi-purpose trend where face products are also delivering skin care benefits, and lip and cheek benefits in one product…textures are continuing to be interesting and fun with mousses, gels, lightweight oils, serums and even foams.” 

The beauty shopper is savvier these days, observed Katie Jane Hughes, global color ambassador, Butter London, Brooklyn NY, which is debuting the Brick Lane Collection at Ulta this month. “Consumers are looking for versatility, pigment and trendy tones,” she told Happi. “I think she wants something that’s going to take her beauty look to the next level. She wants her makeup to become an accessory.”

In a similar vein, mineral makeup brand Jane Iredale is rolling out the City Nights collection for Fall 2014.

“In reality, everything new is a variation of something old. And with each passing year, an evolution of refinement and improvement occurs,” said Shawn Towne, Jane Iredale global educator, Charlotte, NC. “In Spring 2014 we saw glowing skin, vivid lips, bronzed cheeks, full brows and lots of mascara. Fall is still encompassing several of these elements while taking them to a cooler place.

Pastel lids start the show with reflective lilacs and lavenders. But don’t send the fire department away because there’s still a lot of smoke in the house…cool, rich smoke using deep mauves and shimmering flesh tones. The strong brow will also definitely be sticking around which looks really beautiful with the smoky eye … the big effect that seems to be a lasting crowd pleaser is glowing skin. Luminosity on the face and body have never been more in style than now.” 

MAC Cosmetics’ Fall 2014 collection, A Novel Romance, is teeming with deep shades by way of metallic eye quads and nocturnal-hued nail lacquers. The brand is also taking a playful approach to color with a special collection devoted to blue-beehived Marge Simpson of “The Simpsons” that hits stores in early September.

Setting the Skin Tone
In facial cosmetics, any color product that is infused with skin care benefits is huge right now, noted Charlie Riddle, a makeup artist for Jane Cosmetics, New York, as “shoppers want to know they are getting everything out of their beauty products.”

 For example, entering a new category, Dr. Perricone recently unveiled a modern innovation in color cosmetics: No Makeup Skincare. Designed to layer, sculpt and enhance features, the line is all about restoring skin health while addressing loss of convexity and signs of aging—revealing a woman’s youthful “no makeup” appearance, said the company.

Rolling out at Ulta in September is CK One all day perfection face makeup broad spectrum SPF 20 sunscreen, billed as a high-performance, long-wear foundation that protects skin from future damage and leaves a flawless, soft and smooth velvet finish that lasts for 24 hours. Enriched with an advanced polymer, the formula is designed to hold pigment in place without over drying, significantly improving the elasticity and durability of the makeup, according to executives at the Coty-owned brand. Vitamin E helps moisturize and safeguard skin against free radicals, providing color and coverage from day to night.

“Shoppers are looking for the perfect skin, a healthy fresh glow and a simple approach to beauty,” Jodie Boland, CK One color global makeup artist, told Happi. “I think people love that minimalistic, nude, natural look.”

Meanwhile in mass, achieving a flawless complexion has never been easier thanks to the new e.l.f. Pressed Mineral Foundation. Combining gentle minerals, this silky, long-lasting powder foundation hydrates as it smoothes, according to the company.  The innovative pressed powder design allows for buildable, blendable coverage that lets skin breath and won’t clog pores. Colors span from Porcelain to Dark. The brand also is rolling out a pressed mineral bronzer that’s designed to provide a healthy faux glow. Vitamin E and grape seed oil help to nourish skin for a revitalized look and feel. 

“Glowing skin with a natural-looking flush is the staple look for this winter,” said Achelle Dunaway, creative director and professional makeup artist at e.l.f. Cosmetics, New York.

When it comes to makeup, nothing is as detrimental to a flawless face as unnatural and cakey foundation. Most women would agree they feel the most confident when their foundation looks natural and camouflaged to skin.

Maybelline New York is introducing a chic new addition to its best-selling Dream franchise—Dream Wonder Fluid Touch Foundation. Widely seen on the runways, a natural, no-makeup look has definitely made a statement and is a trend that is most likely here to stay. This incredibly lightweight liquid foundation melts onto skin providing maximum coverage without the caked-on feel, according to the company. The foundation’s unique teardrop applicator allows for the silky smooth formulation to “melt onto skin,” said Maybelline in a press statement.

Fellow leader in the category, Revlon, is having success with its Cheek Boutique, a collection of blush, bronzers and highlighters for perfect pops of color. Products span from a classic powder blush to a highlighting palette with complimentary shimmer shades to a lightweight, cream blush.

In fact, cream formulations are still on the rise, as seen at Laura Geller. The brand’s new Baked Gelato Vivid Swirl Blush is billed as an innovative, next-generation hybrid cream-powder formula that creates translucent, vibrant color for a flirty, natural-looking flush finish. With a fresh 3D design that lasts until the very last application, this prettily pigmented blush captures the look of the fabulous frozen treat without the unwanted calories. Laura Geller Beauty Baked products start as creamy liquids, which are baked and hand-finished by Italian artisans into silky powder. Since Baked products start as cream, they are not formulated with the additional fillers or binders that can dull pigments and feel dry or heavy on skin, said the company.

Looking Outward
“Eyes are a huge focus for fall,” said Simone Ciafardini, vice president of education and artistry, Make Up For Ever, New York. “Colorful, smoky, gorgeous rich vivid eye makeup is the must-have accessory this season.”

 In celebration of the brand’s 30th anniversary, Make Up For Ever is revolutionizing the product that made it famous by introducing the Artist Shadow range, a collection of 210 highly-pigmented matte, satin, metal, iridescent and diamond finished eyeshadows featuring a breakthrough formula based on pigment atomization—the latest technology used to maximize color delivering up to 88% concentrated pigment which is the highest on the market. The eyeshadows also utilize water-blend technology. 

Meanwhile, at Bare Minerals, there’s a new kind of eyeshadow that’s said to be transforming mornings. One stroke of 5-in-1 BB Advanced Performance Cream Eyeshadow will have consumers out the door with five skin-loving benefits all packed into one luxurious formula, boasts the company. Infused with light reflective pigments, wear it alone for a brightening “barely there” look, or for optimal wear, layer with Bare Minerals Eyecolor. A mineral-based, broad spectrum SPF 15 also offers complete UVA and UVB protection in this SKU. The brand is also rolling out a cooling CC Eye Primer.

Tarte is bulking up its “clay” cosmetic empire with a new CC Eye Primer Stick. This color-correcting pencil minimizes discolorations but also reduces excess oil for staying power, according to the company. This multi-hued clay blend features rose, vanilla, yellow and purple tones mixed into a nude hue to improve the eye region all around!

Other innovations include mass market brand Milani’s new “gel powder” eyeshadow, touted as imparting rich, vibrant color that glides on in a single stroke, delivering a stunning multi-dimensional effect.

Also turning up the intensity with three limited edition shades is Avon, with its ultra-plumping SuperShock Mascara in new Brights. A supersized, flexible bristle brush thoroughly coats lashes with an exclusive dual formula, while separating each lash for a clump-free look. The two-in-one Thickening Base Coat plus Volumizing Mascara formula features unique microfibers to plump and expand lashes to shocking intensity too.

Rimmel London is also expanding its eye cosmetic empire with the new ScandalEyes Rockin’ Curves Mascara, a unique new SKU that creates rock chic lashes in one simple swoop. The dramatic, ultra-black formula clings to lashes for edgy impact, while the first-of-its-kind “broken-heart” shaped mascara brush curls lashes in one clean stroke.

In other eyecolor news, Urban Decay is adding on to its wide range of collectible kits with a limited edition eyeshadow set inspired by the cult classic, “Pulp Fiction” by Quentin Tarantino.

Sealed with a Kiss
For Fall 2014, CoverGirl expanded its lipgloss collection, known for imparting both moisture and shine without stickiness, by 13 additional colors. According to the company, the richly saturated color payoff feels weightless as well.

Also big in mass, specifically at Target stores–the latest introduction for Fall to Pacifica’s mineral color collection brings founder Brook Harvey-Taylor’s vision of effortless, natural beauty to life. Devocean Lipstick is highly pigmented and full of antioxidants. The SKU is available in five shades.

Lip crayons are also still a popular style for color cosmetics this season. L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Glossy Balm Crayon, available in eight shades, delivers an ultra-light, ultra-glossy finish for the woman looking for a new twist on a traditional balm. Clinique is bulking up its Chubby Stick franchise with the new Chubby Stick Baby Tint Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm. A collection of four sheer shades, the product is said to bring out lips’ natural tone.

Trending Ahead
In 2015, including ingredients that are anti-aging, hydrating, plumping, SPF protection and at the same time “gorgeous looking” is what is popular right now and will probably be going forward, observed Lucero at Stila.

The industry should also keep an eye on makeup with a great feel or texture, noted Riddle of Jane Cosmetics. For example, eyeshadows that are creamy or lipsticks that feel like a gel.

“Look for products that have ‘modern innovation’ such as gel eyeliners, liquid pen liners and lip and cheek stains,” added Towne of Jane Iredale. “Runways and red carpets also seem to be moving more and more toward a cleaner complexion and less visible foundation products, while eyes are getting all dolled up with defined lines and intense lashes.”

Products that focus on innovative componentry to help simplify the beauty routine will be a big hit in the next year, Dunaway of e.l.f., as well as cosmetic products that are skin care infused.

“Minimizing your beauty routine and being conscious of what you put on your skin is becoming ever so prevalent,” she told Happi. “Color cosmetic products that have ‘good for you’ ingredients that offer a flawless look is essential.”

Boland of CK One agrees that less can be more when it comes to color cosmetics. “Future trends to look out for in color cosmetics could be minimalistic neutral shades; perfection made imperfect…an attitude change towards what we see as beauty, embracing imperfections as an authentic look.”

Brows are Big!
• A 28% increase in sales made the prestige eyebrow makeup subsegment the leader within total US prestige eye makeup in the 12 months ending March 2014, according to The NPD Group, Inc. This increase is in sharp contrast to the total US prestige makeup market’s 3% gain during the same time period, said NPD.

Sales of eyebrow products have increased by double digits during the past three years, and now represent $122 million, and 11% of total US prestige eye makeup sales. However, less than 80% of prestige retail stores are currently selling brow makeup, according to NPD data.

“The trend toward defined eyes continues to fuel prestige eye makeup sales nationwide,” said Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. “Further investigation into NPD’s geo-level information uncovers regional opportunities for increased distribution and growth in brow makeup, particularly in southern markets within the US.”

More info: www.npd.com