Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor09.03.14
Sun protection is something that should be used all year long, not just in the summertime or on the beach. According to industry experts, SPF-infused products are important to help keep the skin healthy and reduce signs of aging.
And while summer’s rays may be fading in the Northern Hemisphere, protection remains important. According to Dr. Michael Shapiro, medical director and founder of Vanguard Dermatology in New York, consumers should be seeking skin care with UV protection to protect the skin and keep it fresh.
He told Happi, “When it comes to skin care products containing SPF, many shoppers are looking for lightweight formulas. Sunscreens can be greasy and have an unwanted odor, so shoppers are choosing products that provide SPF coverage needed without turning to a classic sunscreen. Many moisturizers, foundations, and powders nowadays contain SPF protection, without the greasy feel… shoppers also are choosing SPF products that won’t clog pores.”
The last over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen ingredient to be approved by FDA was in the 1990s. Since 2002, eight new sunscreen applications have been filed and are still awaiting review 12 years later. New sunscreen technologies currently awaiting approval in the US have been widely available in Europe, Asia, and Central and South America, in some cases for more than 15 years. As previously reported in Happi, The Public Access to SunScreens (PASS) Coalition applauded the House of Representatives for its bipartisan passage of the Sunscreen Innovation Act, HR 4250, which passed by voice vote.
The Senate is expected to take up the measure following its summer recess. The bill passed includes a transparent review process within a predictable timeline for all sunscreen applicants and the opportunity for Congressional oversight over the process to make sure the process is working as designed. The timelines include: final decisions on pending applications within approximately one year and final decisions on new applications within approximately one and a half years.
In the Marketplace
A major emerging trend in the global sun care product market is the growing popularity of multifunctional benefits present in a single product, noted Research and Markets in its findings.
According to the company, consumers prefer products such as BB creams with SPF as well as added benefits that provide lighter textures. But that preference is hampering sun care product sales. BB creams act as a moisturizer, serum, foundation and sunblock to give consumers a youthful, bright and even skin tone, contended the Dublin, Ireland-based market research firm, which noted that demand for such multifunctional products is higher in North America and Western European countries.
According to market research firm Mintel, total facial skin care sales have increased modestly between 2008 and 2013, rising 8% during that period to an estimated $5.6 billion. The category is highly competitive and saturated, creating challenges for brands to sustain strong rates of growth. The anti-aging skin care category is the largest segment in the facial skin care category, and until recently, was also the fastest-growing segment.
Clearly, the market revolves around products with UV protection. In fact, in-sun prestige skin care sales declined 8% to $51.5 million in the 12 months ending June 2014, compared to the previous 12 months, according to The NPD Group, Inc. However, sales of in-sun products with SPF 50 grew 18% during this same period, and now account for 32% of total dollar sales.
Nearly nine out of 10 women (86%) feel that SPF protection as a beauty product attribute is somewhat or extremely important in their decision to buy that product, according to results of a May survey by The Benchmarking Company. Survey respondents were 1,100+ avid beauty buyers (those who buy makeup/skin care at least every three months). The report also showed that 827 currently use a daily SPF moisturizer (70%); and of the 827 current daily SPF moisturizer users 45% buy their skin care in a superstore while 17% buy in specialty stores such as Sephora.
“The top trends in the SPF-infused skin care market for Fall is incorporating it into more skin care products and in particular makeup,” said dermatologist Jeannette Graf, MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, NY. “Water-resistant color cosmetics infused with SPF and soothing antioxidants are also on trend.”
Making Moves in Mass
This fall, Olay is adding a new CC cream to its Total Effects collection: the Pore Minimizing CC Cream. In addition to broad spectrum SPF 15, it also contains niacinamide to help reduce the appearance of pores and skin tone over time. This lightweight formula, available in three shades, also provides sheer coverage for an instant airbrushed finish.
This follows the Olay Total Effects Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 that recently launched, which provides a higher SPF level along with the exclusive Total Effects vitamin complex, containing vitamin B3, vitamin E and pro-vitamin B5, according to the company.
Other big news in drugstores and other mass outlets includes the rollout of L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Day Cream SPF 15. Inspired by years of research in skin cell biology, this advanced skin care innovation was formulated to aid in stimulating surface skin cell renewal at a time when the natural action is most prone to begin diminishing on its own, said the company. This nurturing daytime formula contains Cicer Arietnimum seed extract and Vigna Aconitifolia seed extract, which are naturally derived ingredients known to boost energy metabolism of the epidermis and in turn help stimulate skin’s renewal. A broad spectrum SPF 15 protects the skin from the damaging effects of the sun.
Meanwhile, the latest launch at Lumene—big at CVS/pharmacy stores—is a youth-restoring day cream formulated with groundbreaking cloudberry stem cell technology. Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Day Cream also contains both UVA and UVB protection to prevent premature aging and skin damage from the sun.
Part of the revolutionary new Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair line for effective anti-aging, the antioxidant-rich day cream helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles through unique cloudberry stem cell technology. Developed through a cell culture grown from the potent Arctic Cloudberry, Lumene’s innovative cloudberry stem cell product contains more proteins than a fresh cloudberry with just as many fatty acids, contends the company.
Natural skin care brands are also capitalizing on the benefits of sun protection this season. For example, the Alba Botanica brand is introducing a new range of facial moisturizers, Good & Healthy, developed for different skin types, to ward off dullness and recharge skin. Powered by leafy green goodness, the formulas are packed with kale, spinach and swiss chard extracts, with contain vitamins, antioxidants and phytonutrients like lutein for a smooth, luminous complexion. The range includes Good & Healthy SPF 15 Moisturizer for daily sun protection. According to the company, this lightweight SPF lotion protects skin from incidental UV exposure while simultaneously providing intense hydration. Mineral sunscreens provide broad-spectrum defense against early signs of aging.
Fellow naturals brand Pacifica is also bulking up its roster of offerings at Target with the new Ultra CC Cream Radiant Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 17. It is billed as a radiant foundation with 100% UVA/UVB physical SPF protection plus moisturizing skin care. Specially adapted color correcting minerals bring back radiance and a youthful glow instantly.
Prominent in Prestige
Alphabet creams from BB to beyond are still big in the marketplace for Fall 2014. Consider the latest creation this season at Estée Lauder, the new Enlighten Skintone Correcting Collection, which aims to awaken a transformation for glowing, even-toned skin. The collection includes an Even Effect (EE) Skintone Corrector SPF 30.
According to the company, it is the first line of defense against daytime damage. This transformative EE creme provides every day protection against UV, irritating pollution and free radical damage. Baicalin, a high-purity, high-potency extract of Scutellaria Baicalensis, helps to minimize the irritation from pollution that can trigger the formation of excess pigment and dark spots.
To give skin an overall more even effect, this smooth, fluid crème includes color-correcting pigments that create a more uniform tone and a blend of fine optics that add instant radiance. It hits stores this October in three sheer shades to suit a variety of skin tones: Light, Medium and Deep.
Sister brand M∙A∙C also added to its Prep+Prime BB Beauty Balm with three new bronze shades in Refined Golden, Golden and Amber. This product—available in an SPF cream and a go-anywhere SPF 30 solid cream compact—features broad-spectrum SPF protection and softening ingredients to lock in moisture.
Fellow color cosmetic leader Mary Kay is also fortifying its beauty entourage with a CC cream.
“I think more and more women want products that have many benefits and immediate results. Items like Mary Kay CC Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 15 are so popular because they deliver multiple results like sun protection, hydration and skin coverage,” noted Mary Kay celebrity makeup artist Luis Casco, New York, about the popularity of alphabet creams this season.
Roll Back the Clock
Delivering a new standard in eye care, SkinCeuticals Physical Eye UV Defense SPF 50 with a 100% mineral filter base defends, enhances and optimizes the entire eye area, said the company. Formulated specifically for the unique structure of the more sensitive skin around the eye, Physical Eye UV Defense provides broad spectrum SPF 50 protection without migrating into or irritating the eyes. Translucent color spheres create a unifying tint that enhances all skin tones, while ceramides nourish, creating a smooth, optimal canvas for makeup application.
Other non-tinted products infused with sun protection offer anti-aging benefits for daytime usage. For example, Eve Lom Daily Protection + SPF 50—popular at SpaceNK.com and Barneys—features a dual protective formula with powerful UV shields plus antioxidants vitamins C and E, blocking skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, as well as aging free radicals and daily environmental damage. Key ingredients include niacinamide, paracress flower extract and lactic acid.
Amandine Isnard, head of product development for Eve Lom, New York City, told Happi, “The latest high protection SPFs are set to give your complexion the chicest sun defense yet. Used by top makeup artists to bathe the skin in a unique UV-esque glow, when layered under foundation, these super fluids sculpt and highlight features for a ‘lit from within’ look!”
Exotic ingredients are also a draw in skin care with SPF. Caudalie’s exclusive stabilized grape-seed polyphenols, touted as the most powerful antioxidants in the plant world, have joined forces with stabilized vitamin C to block damaging free radicals in the Caudalie Polyphenol c15 Broad Spectrum SPF 20 Anti-Wrinkle Protect Fluid.
This multi-purpose antioxidant, sold at Sephora and Caudalie outposts, is an enriched cream that incorporates a broad-spectrum sunscreen to preserve skin from free radicals generated by UVA and UVB radiation. Its oil-free formula has a feathery-light texture that quenches skin, without leaving a greasy residue, said the company.
And, for those who want to take their SPF-infused skin care to go, Peter Thomas Roth rolled out its Anti-Aging Defense Sunscreen Stick SPF 50—a convenient, dial up, cream-to powder dry finish sunscreen. This broad spectrum SPF 50 anti-aging sunscreen packs skin care benefits such as being oil-free, water-resistant, paraben-free and is rich with antioxidants.•
A Luminous Season Ahead
Overall growth in the facial skin care category has been slow, driven by the highly competitive and saturated nature of the industry, noted Mintel in its findings.
In addition, as a result of more comprehensive benefits and multiple-benefit formulas, lines continue to blur between segments, resulting in some level of sales cannibalization.
While future growth is expected to remain slow, there are opportunities for more customized and convenience-driven product options, noted Mintel. Value-added products that enhance health and wellness, extend usage occasions, or tap into the convenience-driven mindset of male and multicultural shoppers stand to gain. All three facets can apply to skin care with UV protection.
“With ever-increasing rates of skin cancer, we feel that consumers will be looking to include SPF in all aspects of their beauty regimen—whether this be SPF skin care, cosmetics or even daily body lotion to guard against damaging UV rays,” noted Isnard of Eve Lom. “We also feel that regulations and testing of SPF products will become more regimented and aligned between markets to ensure that SPF products offer consumers the best possible protection.”
Charlene Deegan, R&D director of Borghese, NYC, which recently just launched a line in Target called Age-Defying Cellulare Complex, agreed.
“Two-thousand fifteen is going to be a fantastic year. We’ll see technologies introduced and the spectrum expanded for consumers,” she explained. “In 2015, the trend will include broad conversations and launches centered on infrared-induced damage and the means to block that damage. We’ll hear less about free-radical damage and far more about DNA damage.”
A head-to-toe approach to skin care might be the key to expanding the market for products with UV protection.
According to Shapiro of Vanguard Dermatology, “Future trends to look for in SPF in skin care moving into 2015 may include those that provide more options for UV protection in areas of the body that are often neglected. These areas include under the eyes and lips. These areas are very susceptible to sunburns; therefore, more products will most likely be launched to care for their protection.”
Skin care? Sun care? As skin care formulas add sun protection benefits and sun care formulas boast skin-friendly ingredients, the convergence of the two categories will continue for years to come.
And while summer’s rays may be fading in the Northern Hemisphere, protection remains important. According to Dr. Michael Shapiro, medical director and founder of Vanguard Dermatology in New York, consumers should be seeking skin care with UV protection to protect the skin and keep it fresh.
He told Happi, “When it comes to skin care products containing SPF, many shoppers are looking for lightweight formulas. Sunscreens can be greasy and have an unwanted odor, so shoppers are choosing products that provide SPF coverage needed without turning to a classic sunscreen. Many moisturizers, foundations, and powders nowadays contain SPF protection, without the greasy feel… shoppers also are choosing SPF products that won’t clog pores.”
The last over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen ingredient to be approved by FDA was in the 1990s. Since 2002, eight new sunscreen applications have been filed and are still awaiting review 12 years later. New sunscreen technologies currently awaiting approval in the US have been widely available in Europe, Asia, and Central and South America, in some cases for more than 15 years. As previously reported in Happi, The Public Access to SunScreens (PASS) Coalition applauded the House of Representatives for its bipartisan passage of the Sunscreen Innovation Act, HR 4250, which passed by voice vote.
The Senate is expected to take up the measure following its summer recess. The bill passed includes a transparent review process within a predictable timeline for all sunscreen applicants and the opportunity for Congressional oversight over the process to make sure the process is working as designed. The timelines include: final decisions on pending applications within approximately one year and final decisions on new applications within approximately one and a half years.
In the Marketplace
A major emerging trend in the global sun care product market is the growing popularity of multifunctional benefits present in a single product, noted Research and Markets in its findings.
According to the company, consumers prefer products such as BB creams with SPF as well as added benefits that provide lighter textures. But that preference is hampering sun care product sales. BB creams act as a moisturizer, serum, foundation and sunblock to give consumers a youthful, bright and even skin tone, contended the Dublin, Ireland-based market research firm, which noted that demand for such multifunctional products is higher in North America and Western European countries.
According to market research firm Mintel, total facial skin care sales have increased modestly between 2008 and 2013, rising 8% during that period to an estimated $5.6 billion. The category is highly competitive and saturated, creating challenges for brands to sustain strong rates of growth. The anti-aging skin care category is the largest segment in the facial skin care category, and until recently, was also the fastest-growing segment.
Clearly, the market revolves around products with UV protection. In fact, in-sun prestige skin care sales declined 8% to $51.5 million in the 12 months ending June 2014, compared to the previous 12 months, according to The NPD Group, Inc. However, sales of in-sun products with SPF 50 grew 18% during this same period, and now account for 32% of total dollar sales.
Nearly nine out of 10 women (86%) feel that SPF protection as a beauty product attribute is somewhat or extremely important in their decision to buy that product, according to results of a May survey by The Benchmarking Company. Survey respondents were 1,100+ avid beauty buyers (those who buy makeup/skin care at least every three months). The report also showed that 827 currently use a daily SPF moisturizer (70%); and of the 827 current daily SPF moisturizer users 45% buy their skin care in a superstore while 17% buy in specialty stores such as Sephora.
“The top trends in the SPF-infused skin care market for Fall is incorporating it into more skin care products and in particular makeup,” said dermatologist Jeannette Graf, MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, NY. “Water-resistant color cosmetics infused with SPF and soothing antioxidants are also on trend.”
Making Moves in Mass
This fall, Olay is adding a new CC cream to its Total Effects collection: the Pore Minimizing CC Cream. In addition to broad spectrum SPF 15, it also contains niacinamide to help reduce the appearance of pores and skin tone over time. This lightweight formula, available in three shades, also provides sheer coverage for an instant airbrushed finish.
This follows the Olay Total Effects Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 that recently launched, which provides a higher SPF level along with the exclusive Total Effects vitamin complex, containing vitamin B3, vitamin E and pro-vitamin B5, according to the company.
Other big news in drugstores and other mass outlets includes the rollout of L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Day Cream SPF 15. Inspired by years of research in skin cell biology, this advanced skin care innovation was formulated to aid in stimulating surface skin cell renewal at a time when the natural action is most prone to begin diminishing on its own, said the company. This nurturing daytime formula contains Cicer Arietnimum seed extract and Vigna Aconitifolia seed extract, which are naturally derived ingredients known to boost energy metabolism of the epidermis and in turn help stimulate skin’s renewal. A broad spectrum SPF 15 protects the skin from the damaging effects of the sun.
Meanwhile, the latest launch at Lumene—big at CVS/pharmacy stores—is a youth-restoring day cream formulated with groundbreaking cloudberry stem cell technology. Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Day Cream also contains both UVA and UVB protection to prevent premature aging and skin damage from the sun.
Part of the revolutionary new Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair line for effective anti-aging, the antioxidant-rich day cream helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles through unique cloudberry stem cell technology. Developed through a cell culture grown from the potent Arctic Cloudberry, Lumene’s innovative cloudberry stem cell product contains more proteins than a fresh cloudberry with just as many fatty acids, contends the company.
Natural skin care brands are also capitalizing on the benefits of sun protection this season. For example, the Alba Botanica brand is introducing a new range of facial moisturizers, Good & Healthy, developed for different skin types, to ward off dullness and recharge skin. Powered by leafy green goodness, the formulas are packed with kale, spinach and swiss chard extracts, with contain vitamins, antioxidants and phytonutrients like lutein for a smooth, luminous complexion. The range includes Good & Healthy SPF 15 Moisturizer for daily sun protection. According to the company, this lightweight SPF lotion protects skin from incidental UV exposure while simultaneously providing intense hydration. Mineral sunscreens provide broad-spectrum defense against early signs of aging.
Fellow naturals brand Pacifica is also bulking up its roster of offerings at Target with the new Ultra CC Cream Radiant Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 17. It is billed as a radiant foundation with 100% UVA/UVB physical SPF protection plus moisturizing skin care. Specially adapted color correcting minerals bring back radiance and a youthful glow instantly.
Prominent in Prestige
Alphabet creams from BB to beyond are still big in the marketplace for Fall 2014. Consider the latest creation this season at Estée Lauder, the new Enlighten Skintone Correcting Collection, which aims to awaken a transformation for glowing, even-toned skin. The collection includes an Even Effect (EE) Skintone Corrector SPF 30.
According to the company, it is the first line of defense against daytime damage. This transformative EE creme provides every day protection against UV, irritating pollution and free radical damage. Baicalin, a high-purity, high-potency extract of Scutellaria Baicalensis, helps to minimize the irritation from pollution that can trigger the formation of excess pigment and dark spots.
To give skin an overall more even effect, this smooth, fluid crème includes color-correcting pigments that create a more uniform tone and a blend of fine optics that add instant radiance. It hits stores this October in three sheer shades to suit a variety of skin tones: Light, Medium and Deep.
Sister brand M∙A∙C also added to its Prep+Prime BB Beauty Balm with three new bronze shades in Refined Golden, Golden and Amber. This product—available in an SPF cream and a go-anywhere SPF 30 solid cream compact—features broad-spectrum SPF protection and softening ingredients to lock in moisture.
Fellow color cosmetic leader Mary Kay is also fortifying its beauty entourage with a CC cream.
“I think more and more women want products that have many benefits and immediate results. Items like Mary Kay CC Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 15 are so popular because they deliver multiple results like sun protection, hydration and skin coverage,” noted Mary Kay celebrity makeup artist Luis Casco, New York, about the popularity of alphabet creams this season.
Roll Back the Clock
Delivering a new standard in eye care, SkinCeuticals Physical Eye UV Defense SPF 50 with a 100% mineral filter base defends, enhances and optimizes the entire eye area, said the company. Formulated specifically for the unique structure of the more sensitive skin around the eye, Physical Eye UV Defense provides broad spectrum SPF 50 protection without migrating into or irritating the eyes. Translucent color spheres create a unifying tint that enhances all skin tones, while ceramides nourish, creating a smooth, optimal canvas for makeup application.
Other non-tinted products infused with sun protection offer anti-aging benefits for daytime usage. For example, Eve Lom Daily Protection + SPF 50—popular at SpaceNK.com and Barneys—features a dual protective formula with powerful UV shields plus antioxidants vitamins C and E, blocking skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, as well as aging free radicals and daily environmental damage. Key ingredients include niacinamide, paracress flower extract and lactic acid.
Amandine Isnard, head of product development for Eve Lom, New York City, told Happi, “The latest high protection SPFs are set to give your complexion the chicest sun defense yet. Used by top makeup artists to bathe the skin in a unique UV-esque glow, when layered under foundation, these super fluids sculpt and highlight features for a ‘lit from within’ look!”
Exotic ingredients are also a draw in skin care with SPF. Caudalie’s exclusive stabilized grape-seed polyphenols, touted as the most powerful antioxidants in the plant world, have joined forces with stabilized vitamin C to block damaging free radicals in the Caudalie Polyphenol c15 Broad Spectrum SPF 20 Anti-Wrinkle Protect Fluid.
This multi-purpose antioxidant, sold at Sephora and Caudalie outposts, is an enriched cream that incorporates a broad-spectrum sunscreen to preserve skin from free radicals generated by UVA and UVB radiation. Its oil-free formula has a feathery-light texture that quenches skin, without leaving a greasy residue, said the company.
And, for those who want to take their SPF-infused skin care to go, Peter Thomas Roth rolled out its Anti-Aging Defense Sunscreen Stick SPF 50—a convenient, dial up, cream-to powder dry finish sunscreen. This broad spectrum SPF 50 anti-aging sunscreen packs skin care benefits such as being oil-free, water-resistant, paraben-free and is rich with antioxidants.•
A Luminous Season Ahead
Overall growth in the facial skin care category has been slow, driven by the highly competitive and saturated nature of the industry, noted Mintel in its findings.
In addition, as a result of more comprehensive benefits and multiple-benefit formulas, lines continue to blur between segments, resulting in some level of sales cannibalization.
While future growth is expected to remain slow, there are opportunities for more customized and convenience-driven product options, noted Mintel. Value-added products that enhance health and wellness, extend usage occasions, or tap into the convenience-driven mindset of male and multicultural shoppers stand to gain. All three facets can apply to skin care with UV protection.
“With ever-increasing rates of skin cancer, we feel that consumers will be looking to include SPF in all aspects of their beauty regimen—whether this be SPF skin care, cosmetics or even daily body lotion to guard against damaging UV rays,” noted Isnard of Eve Lom. “We also feel that regulations and testing of SPF products will become more regimented and aligned between markets to ensure that SPF products offer consumers the best possible protection.”
Charlene Deegan, R&D director of Borghese, NYC, which recently just launched a line in Target called Age-Defying Cellulare Complex, agreed.
“Two-thousand fifteen is going to be a fantastic year. We’ll see technologies introduced and the spectrum expanded for consumers,” she explained. “In 2015, the trend will include broad conversations and launches centered on infrared-induced damage and the means to block that damage. We’ll hear less about free-radical damage and far more about DNA damage.”
A head-to-toe approach to skin care might be the key to expanding the market for products with UV protection.
According to Shapiro of Vanguard Dermatology, “Future trends to look for in SPF in skin care moving into 2015 may include those that provide more options for UV protection in areas of the body that are often neglected. These areas include under the eyes and lips. These areas are very susceptible to sunburns; therefore, more products will most likely be launched to care for their protection.”
Skin care? Sun care? As skin care formulas add sun protection benefits and sun care formulas boast skin-friendly ingredients, the convergence of the two categories will continue for years to come.
• Bare Escentuals recently rolled out a skin care/color cosmetic hybrid, branching out to even more consumers craving a liquid texture that has become so popular in the past few years with BB and CC creams. The new Bare Skin Foundation is SPF 20, has a texture like a serum and features lilac plant stem cells that are proprietary to the brand. In trials, 95% of women reported a reduction in dark spots with the use of Bare Skin, said the company. This month, BareMinerals opened the first-ever bareMinerals Shade Shop at 118 Prince St in New York City’s Soho neighborhood. Conceptualized as a new way to shop, bareMinerals’ award-winning complexion assortment is merchandised by shade family–light, medium, tan, dark and deep–in a streamlined, easy-to-navigate environment. The store design allows women to find everything they need for a flawless-looking complexion in one location, specifically curated for her skin tone, and will also feature a rotating color bar to complete her look. More Info: www.bareminerals.com |