Tom Branna, Editorial Director10.01.15
Cornell McBride Sr. has witnessed much during his 40-year career. Hairstyles have changed, formulas have too and, in some measure, the US has changed, as well. During this time, McBride and the companies that he founded have been witness to these changes and, most importantly, McBride has kept his family close during those years.
“When I was 12 years old, I made a promise to my mom to build a house for her,” McBride recalled. “I thought I could keep my promise through sports, but I fulfilled it through education.”
After a brief look from baseball scouts, McBride joined the military, went to college on the GI bill and became a pharmacist, which led to the creation of Sta-Sof-Fro and the founding of M&M Products Company with classmate Therman McKenzie. Sta-Sof-Fro was the first softening product developed for African-American men’s hair, making it manageable and easy to comb. By the mid-1980s, M&M Products’ sales topped $40 million and the product lineup included four brands Sta-Sof-Fro, Sof-N-Free, Moxie and Curly Perm. In 1989, McBride and his partner sold M&M Products Company to Johnson Products.
The next year, McBride launched the Design Essentials hair care system, a program that combined direct distribution of premium, quality hair care solutions with the education and knowledge to effectively use them in the salon and at home. Over the years, Design Essentials has grown to more than 40 products that are distributed throughout the US, Caribbean and the UK.
While he admits the hair care category is competitive, McBride insists that Design Essentials’ cadre of exclusive distributors—100 strong—gives his company an edge.
“We can educate the stylists on an ongoing basis on new products and new techniques,” McBride explained. “Our products are distributed to 30-40,000 stylists, but we are still able to keep in touch with them on a regular basis.”
A Natural
Keeping in touch with stylists is paramount as hairstyles change and product formulas evolve. Right now, for example, consumers and stylists are clamoring for natural products and ingredients in their hair care formulas. No wonder then, that there’s Design Essential Naturals with ingredients such as coconut and monoi.
“For awhile, everyone was interested in shea,” he recalled. “Now, they want more exotic ingredients in their hair care formulas.”
Design Essentials is meeting this demand for all things natural with products that contain argan, almond, avocado, quinoa, bamboo and even pea sprout! McBride predicts that the move toward natural will continue for years to come.
“It hasn’t peaked yet,” he explained.
And until it does, formulators will continue to search for ever more exotic ingredients from all over the world.
“We’re in an environment where companies are looking at different cultures and countries and trying to make them mainstream,” he explained. “It’s always a hunt to find new ingredients and always a challenge to top what you’ve already done. And you have to remain open to new ideas.”
While he’s not sure where those ideas will come from, McBride is quite confident that the search for mild, credible relaxing systems will continue. That search will include looking for alternatives to sodium hydroxide, even though McBride is convinced it gets a bad rap in the beauty press and in salons.
“There is a proper way to use straighteners, but it requires proper education,” observed McBride.
Today’s Trends
To make sure that stylists are properly trained, Design Essentials conducts three different types of classes: in-salon, which involves five or six attendees; interactive (30-40) or seminar (100-150). At the same time, the company works with more than 250 beauty schools, conducting classes and demonstrating products.
“The market has changed; consumers want smoothers rather than relaxers and stylists need to be educated,” he explained.
McBride saw the waning demand for relaxers and as a result, Design Essentials rolled out Strengthening Therapy System (STS). The formaldehyde-free formula is amino acid based to tame, smooth and elongate curls for up to 12 weeks. One of the newest STS SKUs is TS Express Smoothing Mousse Max Smooth, which is said to transform frizzy, unmanageable hair into long lasting smooth, sleek, shiny hair. Used as the second step in the STS Express Smoothing system, Smoothing Mousse Max Smooth is infused with micro-fine amino acids to strengthen hair from root to tip while delivering anti-swelling and anti-reversion properties, according to Design Essentials.
Besides product formulas, how consumers make their purchasing decisions has evolved as well. During his career, McBride has witnessed consumers taking a more hands-on, do-it-yourself approach to their hair. They watch a lot of YouTube to learn how to use the products and conduct more online research to find more out about what’s in the products—and that’s having an impact on the hair care industry.
“During my 40-year career, I’ve seen the move toward gentler, more effective ingredients and I expect that to continue,” he told Happi.
How company executives and consumers view the hair care category is changing, too. McBride maintains that hair is more about texture and less about skin color, helped along by changing demographics.
“There are more multiracial kids who have a wide range of hair textures,” he explained.
The world is changing too. Design Essentials is setting up distributorships in Africa. McBride noted that Nigeria is a rapidly growing market that is expected to be the fourth most populated nation in the next 30 years.
“We’re not just shipping products, we are setting up distributorships, establishing manufacturing facilities; we are positioned to do a good job,” he said.
But getting on a plane and travelling halfway around the world to set up businesses in new markets takes its toll.
“It’s a young man’s game; I don’t lead the charge anymore; that’s up to my son and his team.”
It’s All About Family
In fact, McBride is determined to remain on the sidelines and let the next generation take over. Cornell McBride Jr. is president, daughter Sholanda Armstrong is in charge of social media and son Andre McBride oversees operations.
“We’ve been able to sustain a family business and my kids have picked up where I left off,” he noted. “It’s like a relay race. I ran my leg, passed the baton and the next runner is taking off. It’s been a smooth transition.”
It’s a smooth transition that’s been made possible by the support of Harriet, his wife of 52 years.
He hopes that the family ties will remain strong.
“I want the grandkids to get an education and do what they want, but I hope that they want to pick it (the business) up. I like having them around.”
If the grandchildren have half the drive of their grandpa, you can be sure that Design Essentials will be around for decades to come.
“When I was 12 years old, I made a promise to my mom to build a house for her,” McBride recalled. “I thought I could keep my promise through sports, but I fulfilled it through education.”
After a brief look from baseball scouts, McBride joined the military, went to college on the GI bill and became a pharmacist, which led to the creation of Sta-Sof-Fro and the founding of M&M Products Company with classmate Therman McKenzie. Sta-Sof-Fro was the first softening product developed for African-American men’s hair, making it manageable and easy to comb. By the mid-1980s, M&M Products’ sales topped $40 million and the product lineup included four brands Sta-Sof-Fro, Sof-N-Free, Moxie and Curly Perm. In 1989, McBride and his partner sold M&M Products Company to Johnson Products.
The next year, McBride launched the Design Essentials hair care system, a program that combined direct distribution of premium, quality hair care solutions with the education and knowledge to effectively use them in the salon and at home. Over the years, Design Essentials has grown to more than 40 products that are distributed throughout the US, Caribbean and the UK.
While he admits the hair care category is competitive, McBride insists that Design Essentials’ cadre of exclusive distributors—100 strong—gives his company an edge.
“We can educate the stylists on an ongoing basis on new products and new techniques,” McBride explained. “Our products are distributed to 30-40,000 stylists, but we are still able to keep in touch with them on a regular basis.”
A Natural
Keeping in touch with stylists is paramount as hairstyles change and product formulas evolve. Right now, for example, consumers and stylists are clamoring for natural products and ingredients in their hair care formulas. No wonder then, that there’s Design Essential Naturals with ingredients such as coconut and monoi.
“For awhile, everyone was interested in shea,” he recalled. “Now, they want more exotic ingredients in their hair care formulas.”
Design Essentials is meeting this demand for all things natural with products that contain argan, almond, avocado, quinoa, bamboo and even pea sprout! McBride predicts that the move toward natural will continue for years to come.
“It hasn’t peaked yet,” he explained.
And until it does, formulators will continue to search for ever more exotic ingredients from all over the world.
“We’re in an environment where companies are looking at different cultures and countries and trying to make them mainstream,” he explained. “It’s always a hunt to find new ingredients and always a challenge to top what you’ve already done. And you have to remain open to new ideas.”
While he’s not sure where those ideas will come from, McBride is quite confident that the search for mild, credible relaxing systems will continue. That search will include looking for alternatives to sodium hydroxide, even though McBride is convinced it gets a bad rap in the beauty press and in salons.
“There is a proper way to use straighteners, but it requires proper education,” observed McBride.
Today’s Trends
To make sure that stylists are properly trained, Design Essentials conducts three different types of classes: in-salon, which involves five or six attendees; interactive (30-40) or seminar (100-150). At the same time, the company works with more than 250 beauty schools, conducting classes and demonstrating products.
“The market has changed; consumers want smoothers rather than relaxers and stylists need to be educated,” he explained.
McBride saw the waning demand for relaxers and as a result, Design Essentials rolled out Strengthening Therapy System (STS). The formaldehyde-free formula is amino acid based to tame, smooth and elongate curls for up to 12 weeks. One of the newest STS SKUs is TS Express Smoothing Mousse Max Smooth, which is said to transform frizzy, unmanageable hair into long lasting smooth, sleek, shiny hair. Used as the second step in the STS Express Smoothing system, Smoothing Mousse Max Smooth is infused with micro-fine amino acids to strengthen hair from root to tip while delivering anti-swelling and anti-reversion properties, according to Design Essentials.
Besides product formulas, how consumers make their purchasing decisions has evolved as well. During his career, McBride has witnessed consumers taking a more hands-on, do-it-yourself approach to their hair. They watch a lot of YouTube to learn how to use the products and conduct more online research to find more out about what’s in the products—and that’s having an impact on the hair care industry.
“During my 40-year career, I’ve seen the move toward gentler, more effective ingredients and I expect that to continue,” he told Happi.
How company executives and consumers view the hair care category is changing, too. McBride maintains that hair is more about texture and less about skin color, helped along by changing demographics.
“There are more multiracial kids who have a wide range of hair textures,” he explained.
The world is changing too. Design Essentials is setting up distributorships in Africa. McBride noted that Nigeria is a rapidly growing market that is expected to be the fourth most populated nation in the next 30 years.
“We’re not just shipping products, we are setting up distributorships, establishing manufacturing facilities; we are positioned to do a good job,” he said.
But getting on a plane and travelling halfway around the world to set up businesses in new markets takes its toll.
“It’s a young man’s game; I don’t lead the charge anymore; that’s up to my son and his team.”
It’s All About Family
In fact, McBride is determined to remain on the sidelines and let the next generation take over. Cornell McBride Jr. is president, daughter Sholanda Armstrong is in charge of social media and son Andre McBride oversees operations.
“We’ve been able to sustain a family business and my kids have picked up where I left off,” he noted. “It’s like a relay race. I ran my leg, passed the baton and the next runner is taking off. It’s been a smooth transition.”
It’s a smooth transition that’s been made possible by the support of Harriet, his wife of 52 years.
He hopes that the family ties will remain strong.
“I want the grandkids to get an education and do what they want, but I hope that they want to pick it (the business) up. I like having them around.”
If the grandchildren have half the drive of their grandpa, you can be sure that Design Essentials will be around for decades to come.