Tom Branna, Editorial Director03.04.15
Like sunrise and sunset, the personal care industry counted on 5% growth for the sun care category year in and year out. With consumers getting the message that any and every tan represents sun damage and UV exposure is never a good idea, it would seem reasonable to expect US sun care sales to top that 5% average now and in years to come. But a funny thing happened on the way to the beach in 2014—sun care sales weren’t so hot.
According to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm, sales of sun care products in US multi-outlets rose less than 1% last year to $1.1 billion (see chart 2). Once again, private label (PL) topped the list of best-selling products with a 15%dollar share, putting PL comfortably ahead of Coppertone Sport in the race for the No. 1 spot (see chart 1). But it doesn’t matter if it’s a national or store brand—if the sun won’t shine, then everyone suffers.
“It was a tough year for a lot of us,” admitted Stuart J. Straus, CEO, Sun and Skin Care Research. “It was rainy and cold in 2013 and that impacted 2014 due to deep discounting by retailers and pantry-loading by consumers.”
As a result, according to Straus, a lot of retailers were concerned about making big investments in the 2014 sun care season. But enough about the not so distant past; sunny skies must surely be ahead and if there is sun, there’s ultraviolet radiation and its attendant damage.
In fact, Jeff Murad, VP-new product development, Murad Inc., called UV damage “probably the most detrimental factor to the health and usefulness of skin.”
He noted that UV damage causes wrinkles, fine lines and much, much more.
“One of the most common effects from UV damage is uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation and that’s what consumers want help with most of all—even more than wrinkles,” according to Murad.
That’s why Murad has incorporated UV protection into all of its skin care products—not just traditional sun care formulas.
“Whether it’s our acne products or our Resurgence line, sun protection plays a vital role in all of our formulas,” he told Happi.
Next month, Murad will introduce Invisblur Perfecting Shield SPF 30, which the company calls a multi-tasking formula that immediately treats the visible signs of aging, blurs imperfections and protects against UV damage.
Think Sun
Marketers have done a good job alerting consumers about the dangers of getting too much sun—but a teacher’s work is never done and it all still comes back to education, according to Patricia Agin, PhD, distinguished scientist, scientific affairs, in the sun care innovation research and development group at Bayer.
“We are the leading brand and we are educating the consumer to use sunscreen,” she told Happi. These efforts expand the category and encourage the regular use of sunscreen.
“The consumer has to learn that the use of sunscreen is a winning proposition,” Agin added.
But getting them to use sunscreen day in and day out, no matter where they’re located takes more than education. Consumers have to want to use sunscreen and that’s where aesthetics come into play, and is one of the areas where Coppertone and its team of researchers has focused in recent years.
In 2014, for example, Coppertone launched Clearly Sheer, which not only provides broad-spectrum SPF 30 protection, but also promises to leave skin soft, is fast-absorbing and feels clean and light, according to the company. In addition, it won’t cause breakouts—something that women and men worry about even when they’re well past the hypersensitive adolescent and teen years.
“We asked women what they look for in a sun care product and they told us that they want something for every day activities, not just the vacation or beach—something that they like and can use every day,” recalled Agin. “Our products are based on consumer insights on skin feel and fragrance choice. We’re always looking at inactives for skin feel. We look at every ingredient to see how they feel.”
Clearly Sheer is available in two formulas—For Sunny Days (SPF 15 and SPF 30 variants) and Beach & Pool (SPF 50). Clearly Sheer joined a broad array of Coppertone sun care formulas such as Wet n Clear, UltraGuard and Sport.
“We’re trying to make sunscreen more convenient and acceptable,” explained Agin. “Now, we’re expanding our AccuSpray continuous spray that helps consumers control and target sunscreen application.”
For 2015, the AccuSpray technology was added to Coppertone Sport in SPF 15, 30, 50 and 70 variants.
The Coppertone team is determined to make its mark in the fast-growing tattoo category, too. According to a 2014 survey by the Pew Research Center, more than a third of Americans ages 18 to 25 have a tattoo, and about 40% of Americans ages 26 to 40 have tattoos. Unfortunately, the same UV rays that cause skin to wrinkle can wreak havoc with skin ink, too. Coppertone Tattoo Guard Continuous Spray provides SPF 50 protection in a moisturizing formula that helps maintain the smooth appearance of tattooed skin.
The AccuSpray continuous spray technology is rolling out into Coppertone formulas such as Ultra Guard and Coppertone Kids. The technology is designed to deliver a continuous spray that the consumer can control and spray at any angle for quick and even application.
Spray’s the thing at Hampton Sun, as well. Toward the end of 2014, the company rolled out Sunless Tanning Mist in a continuous spray format to Neiman Marcus and the product sold out in two weeks, noted Salvatore Piazzolla, CEO.
“Everybody likes a healthy glow, and everybody looks younger with a tan,” he explained. “Our sales are up in the triple digits in Neiman Marcus. Kelly St. John (the retailer’s vice president divisional merchandise manager of beauty) is a huge fan of Hampton Sun.”
Piazzolla hopes to duplicate that success with the recent introduction into Bergdorf Goodman and a new partnership with Red Door Spa that will put Hampton Sun in all of Red Door’s, well, doors. Also new from Hampton Sun is Lip Soleil, which not only protects delicate lips with SPF 30, but also provides lip plumping benefits.
At press time, year-to-date, Hampton Sun’s sales soared nearly 50%.
“We’re super excited. We have 24 products now and we’re building our infrastructure,” said Piazzolla. “We keep meeting and exceeding our targets by staying true to who we are: we’re a lifestyle brand with no direct competition.”
Keep Focused
Sun and Skin Care Research calls itself the fourth largest player in the US sun care market, behind multinationals Bayer, Energizer and Johnson & Johnson. But competing against these Goliaths doesn’t phase Straus, who noted that bigger companies face a host of issues, while Sun and Skin Care Research (S&SCR) can stay focused on just a couple of categories.
“For 2015 we have refocused the No-Ad brand back to our roots—great formula, great performance and a great price per ounce,” he explained. “No-Ad is a value brand, but it doesn’t interact with private label any more than any other brand.”
For now, the strategy seems to be working. For the four weeks ended Jan. 28, 2015, No-Ad’s unit sales rose 13.7% and 8.4% in dollars.
New for 2015
For the 2015 season, S&SCR is rolling out No-Ad Oil-Free Face Lotion SPF 30, which is billed as a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula that won’t clog pores. The formula contains watermelon extract, which is loaded with vitamin C and antioxidants.
“It’s got all the benefits of the leading brands, such as dermatologist-tested and hypoallergenic, but instead of a 3oz package, we’re giving consumers 6oz,” noted Straus. “That’s double the value and it gets retailers excited.”
According to Straus, there are plenty of consumers who just can’t afford $7 for a 3oz sun care product, which should provide a boost to demand for the new face lotion from No-Ad. Under the same brand, S&SCR introduced a Sports stick.
Under the Ocean Potion brand, the company has rolled out Ever Glow Daily Moisturizer with Gentle Skin Darkener that is designed to maintain already developed color or create a subtle summer color for light and medium skin tones.
Bullfrog sunscreen, which is now part of S&SCR, is preferred by surfers, lifeguards and triathletes—a loyal bunch that not only buys what Bullfrog sells, they want Bullfrog products that haven’t been available for years. When the brand debuted in 1989, the offerings included something called Surf Formula Gel, which was discontinued by Chattem, Bullfrog’s previous owner.
“We received so many requests that we decided to bring it back, with a new formula that stays on the face,” noted Straus.
It must work, since no one’s shying away from Surf Formula Gel’s price tag; a 1.9oz bottle retails for $9.99. Also new from Bullfrog is a clear zinc Quick Stick SPF 50 for on-the-go coverage that should appeal to hikers, bikers and outdoor competitors. The water-resistant, fragrance-free formula retails for $9.99.
Changes (or Not)
Whether they’re making products for babies, kids, adults or athletes, nearly every sun care formulator could use more active ingredients. For years, industry experts have bemoaned the fact that while the US Food and Drug Administration has approved 17 category I ingredients, one is exclusive to L’Oréal (ecamsule) and six (PABA, padimate-O, cinoxate, meradimate, sulisobenzone and trolamine salicylate) are rarely used in formulas for a variety of reasons. That leaves just 10 actives to choose from, and even some of those have their limitations.
But with the passage of The Sunscreen Innovation Act in January, formulators may eventually have as many as eight new ingredients to work with, including amiloxate, bemotrizinol, bisoctrizol, drometrizole trisiloxane, ecamsule, enzacamene, isocotrizinol and octly triazone—just don’t expect these ingredients to show up on product labels anytime soon.
“We support the process and are looking forward to using new ingredients, but right now the Act hasn’t had any impact, because no new ingredient has reached the approval stage,” noted Agin. “Actives must meet current FDA guidelines.”
Agin noted that Coppertone products already exceed UVA protection standards and was quick to point out that US consumers are not getting short-changed on protection compared to Europeans.
Murad, however, insisted that there are at least a dozen fantastic sunscreens in Europe that aren’t available in the State and that limits the US industry’s ability to formulate. He is particularly intrigued by Tinosorb M and S, but at this point, Murad can’t even test the materials in the US, he explained.
One big change for Coppertone that consumers probably won’t even notice is the change in ownership; the brand, along with the entire Merck consumer healthcare business, was acquired by Bayer in October for $14.2 billion.
“It’s an exciting opportunity for us,” insisted Agin. “One of the wonderful things is that Bayer is also a big OTC company with well-known brands that are No. 1 in many markets, but there is no overlap with our products.”
Both operations have a rich heritage in science and innovation. Now, more than five months into the integration, Agin said the new ownership represents an opportunity to combine what Coppertone does well with what Bayer does well, merge them into a combined unit take a closer look at consumer healthcare needs.
“We will have a deeper talent pool as we go forward and there will be opportunities to combine those talents,” she added.
A Natural Fit
Kiss My Face found a talented industry veteran in Jean Fufidio who joined the company two years ago after stints at Playtex and Banana Boat. As chief marketing officer for Kiss My Face, she is determined to grow the company’s sun care business as swiftly as possible.
“Our products work. We’re in a good place in a growing category,” Fufidio told Happi. “Conventional products are not growing like natural.”
To back up that statement, she cited data that “natural” sun care sales rose 12% in food, drug and mass for the year ended Sept. 7, 2014. During that time, Kiss My Face’s sun care sales surged 28%, according to Fufidio. The company’s products contain zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, as well as octinaoxate, octisalate and avobenzone. Formulas also contain hydrasia, a safflower extract that boosts moisturizing properties.
For 2015, Kiss My Face launched Baby’s First Kiss, which is available in lotion and continuous spray formats.
“We knew we were missing the baby,” recalled Fufidio. “Moms love to pamper baby and they love to bond with baby. Sun care gives her that ability to bond with baby.”
Bonds are nice, but so is cash. Fufidio explained that baby care is growing 15% in the natural segment.
“We’re boosting dollar share as well as the baby share in the market basket,” Fufidio noted. “When a mom is buying sun care for herself and other members of the family, she should be thinking about baby, too.”
Of course, keeping babies out of the sun for the first six months of their lives is standard operating procedure when it comes to kids. Baby’s First Kiss is billed as being tear-free, chemical-free and not test on animals. The continuous spray format works on a chemical propellant-free bladder system.
As Kiss My Face and similar competitors expand their sun care lineups, Fufidio is confident that the natural sun care category will continue to outpace conventional sun care product sales now that consumers can choose from products for baby, kids, sport, face and adult. At the same time, Kiss My Face is expanding distribution, going deeper into Whole Foods and other natural retailers, but also expanding into CVS and conventional drugstores.
“Our consumer shops frequently in natural retailers like Sprouts and Whole Foods, but not exclusively,” explained Fufidio. “She is someone who is aware of the health benefits in buying natural food and personal care products, but she shops in supermarkets and drugstores, too.”
Wherever consumers shop, play or work, UV protection plays an important role in maintaining skin health. Sun care formulators are developing product formulas and forms to ensure that UV protection is as convenient and effective as possible.
Looking for a new ingredient for your sun care formula? Begin your search here.
Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry
Tel: 800-906-9977
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Dermacryl E polymer
INCI: Styrene/acrylates copolymer
Applications: Recreational sun protection products, daily wear moisturizers with SPF, tinted sun protection products, color cosmetics, face, body, hand, and foot creams and lotions
Use Levels: 1-5% active
Comments: Dermacryl E polymer provides effective and durable film formation, enabling the formulation of long-lasting, high SPF emulsion systems. Easy to use and cost effective, Dermacryl E polymer helps to create a wide range of products that provide excellent skin feel on application and dry-down, with appeal to consumers seeking the best in sun protection.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Acai Oil
INCI: Euterpe oleracea (Acai) fruit oil
Applications: After sun products
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Powerful antioxidant and natural emollient rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, anthocyanins and phytosterols. It has excellent moisture retention properties and helps restore skin elasticity. Can help damaged skin and heal dry, chapped or cracked skin. Used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Abyssinian Oil
INCI: Crambe Abyssinica seed oil
Applications: After sun products
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Can help protect, repair and replenish damaged skin cells caused by sun damage and exposure. Can help smooth wrinkles and reduce appearance of scars. Hydrates and nourishes skin and helps sensitive skin. Promotes even skin tone and helps diminish sun spots. Can be used as a skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Passion Fruit Oil
INCI: Passiflora edulis seed oil
Applications: after sun products
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Superior emollient, rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin A & C, calcium and phosphorus. Nourishes, treats and helps in healing dry, itchy skin conditions. Has a calming, soothing effect on skin and can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
BASF Corporation
Florham Park, NJ
Tel: 973-245-7638
Email: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: www.carecreations.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP/index.html
Tinosorb A2B
INCI: Tris-biphenyl triazine
Applications: Skin care, sun care, anti-aging and body care
Use Levels: UVA and UVB filter
Comments: Tinosorb A2B is an innovative, broad-spectrum UV filter which provides protection from UVB and UVAII wavelengths from 290 through to 340nm. Due to its superior UV absorbance capabilities, it is one of the most efficient UV filters available on the market. It closes the protection gap in the UVAII range that was previously not available. It is used in skin care, sun care, anti-aging, and body care.
Z-Cote LSA-UC
INCI: Zinc oxide
Applications: Sun care, skin care, baby care and sensitive skin
Use Levels: UVA and UVB filter
Comments: Z-Cote LSA UC is a natural, broad-spectrum sunscreen that enables radiant and gentle formulations suitable for beach wear, daily wear and sensitive skin. Z-Cote LSA UC’s particulates are uncoated and measure greater than 100 nanometers in size. In addition, Z-Cote is naturally derived, allowing companies and their formulators to make “natural” claims that continue to be of growing importance and interest in the overall marketplace.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Regu-scence
INCI: Propanediol, glycerin, water, asparagus officinalis stem extract
Applications: Sun care and anti-aging skin products
Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Comments: Regu-scence is a unique water-soluble extract of the Navarro asparagus peel. The Navarro asparagus is cultivated in Spain and is particularly rich in saponins, which are the main active compounds for stimulation of autophagy. The stimulation of autophagy by Regu-scence helps to stimulate cell renewal. Regu-scence provides an overall skin rejuvenation effect and improved skin appearance.
Neossance Hemisqualane
INCI: C13-15 alkane
Applications: Sun and skin care products
Use Levels: 5.0-50.0%
Comments: Neossance Hemisqualane is a natural alternative to petroleum-based parafiins and silicone ingredients. Hemisqualane is an emollient with a great sensory profile. Hemisqualane provides numerous benefits including high spreadability for a smooth, easy application, resulting in a non-greasy feel. Hemisqualane helps to solubilize UV filters while leaving imparting a silky, light feel.
Croda
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
Volarest FL
INCI: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer
Use Levels: 1.0-2.5%
Applications: Sprayable sunscreens, sprayable emulsions, water lotions, clear suspensions
Comments: Volarest FL is a truly unique polymer providing benefits for both the consumer and formulator. Volarest FL delivers controlled, targeted delivery from sprayable emulsions, novel textures that excite the user and the weightless suspension of emollients and beads in low viscosity fluids. Volarest FL creates novel, elegant and visually-appealing product formats that enhance the consumer experience of your brand.
Oleocraft LP-20
INCI: Polyamide-8
Use Levels: 1-30%
Applications: Eye makeup, lipglosses, lipsticks and sunscreens
Comments: Oleocraft LP-20 is a vegetable derived rheology modifier and water repellency agent for formulation with low-polarity organic liquids for cosmetic and personal care applications. It can be used to gel non-polar organic liquids such as emollients, mineral oils or esters for color cosmetic applications and it can be used to form stable, aesthetically pleasing water-in-gelled oil or silicone-in-gelled oil emulsions. Its film forming properties provide water resistance benefits in sunscreens.
EMD Chemicals
Tel: 484-652-5600
Email: rona@emdmillipore.com
Website: www.emd-pm.com
RonaCare Bronzyl
INCI: Dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate
Applications: Daily Skin Care and Night Care
Sun Care—Sunscreens, Pre- and After-Sun, Self Tanning Formulations
Use Levels: 0.05-0.2%
Comments: RonaCare Bronzyl is a brand new biological tanner from EMD that helps enable tanning with a natural and even skin tone, which in turn can contribute to UV protection. It contributes to the appearance of an even, natural tan in day creams, especially for those who prefer a gradual tan.
Eusolex T-Easy
INCI: Titanium dioxide (for EU: titanium dioxide (nano), silica, cetyl phosphate
Applications: Sun and day care products, self-tanners and skin lighteners
Use Levels: 2-15%
Comments: EMD Chemical’s microfine titanium dioxide product Eusolex T-Eeasy helps balance your formulations—particularly with those containing cosmetic ingredients which are problematic when combined with conventional microfine titanium dioxide. Eusolex T-EASY has an excellent photostability and thus fully complies with the new SCCS Opinion on titanium dioxide.
Grant Industries
Tel: 201-791-6700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Gransil VX-418
INCI: Bis-stearyl dimethicone
Applications:
Use Levels: 1-20%
Comments: Benefits include improving the feel and texture of SPF products along with SPF boosting via improved UV filter deposition.
Interpolymer Corp.
Canton, MA
Tel: 781-828-7120
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Website: www.interpolymer.com
Syntran PC 5227CG
INCI: Polyacrylate 15 (and) polyacrylate 17
Use Levels: 4-7%
Applications: SPF booster
Comments: The Syntran PC 5227CG is an acrylate grafted olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy of organic UV absorbers for a higher SPF and so it permits formulators of sun protection products to reduce the content of the active SPF ingredients.
Kobo Products, Inc.
Tel: 908-941-3409
Email: bskwirut@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
Composite ACZ-50
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) acrylates copolymer (and) kaolin (and) sodium polyacrylate
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels, powders
Use Levels: 1-20%
Comments: A patent-pending technology is used to create a particle suitable for the attenuation of UV light. ZnO is dispersed then entrapped inside a micron-size acrylates copolymer matrix. Composite ACZ-50’s process reduces agglomeration of the encapsulated material resulting in high efficacy, minimal whitening and enhanced tactile properties upon application.
SunBoost ATB Natural
INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) bisabolol
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: This all natural product is a proprietary ratio of antioxidants, and anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory agents. It can boost SPF and PFA scores of a sunscreen formulation by greater than 30% when used in conjunction with conventional UV filters. SunBoost ATB Natural can also deliver anti-aging, hydration, rejuvenation and anti-irritation benefits.
TNSS Dispersions
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Emulsions, gels
Use Levels: 1-34%
Comments: Kobo now offers two new sunscreen dispersions containing attenuation grade or non-nano zinc oxide. The dispersion carrier is ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, a highly effective photo stabilizer and UVA booster that maintains the integrity of UV filters. These dispersions can also boost critical wavelength over using ZnO on its own.
Lipotec LLC
A Lubrizol Corporation Company
Tel: 201-850-1213
Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
Juveleven Peptide Solution
INCI: Butylene glycol, water (aqua) acetyl hexapeptide-51 amide
Applications: Sun care, anti-aging, anti-pollution, UV protection
Use Levels: 2%
Comments: A hexapeptide that mimics the activity of FOXO3a (member of the Forkhead box transcriptional factors), which is involved in cell repair, renewal and longevity. Juveleven peptide protects DNA from damage, stimulates its natural repair pathways and reverts senescence in fibroblasts. It maintains genomic integrity by protecting and repairing DNA damage induced by several agents and delays cellular senescence to ensure a longer and healthier aging.
Lipochroman Synthetic Molecule
INCI: Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
Applications: Sun care, anti-aging, anti-pollution, UV protection
Use Levels: 0.01-0.05%
Comments: A Chromane that protects biomolecules and cellular functions from the damage caused by the reactive species generated from air pollution or UV radiation, as well as from endogenous sources, consequently preventing the premature signs of aging. Lipochroman is a scavenger or ROS and RNS that inhibits protein activation and DNA damage and prevents cell death due to oxidative stress.
Melatime peptide solution
INCI: Butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40
Applications: Sun care and tanning
Use levels: 5%
Comments: A novel peptide that boosts the tanning process of the skin exposed to UV radiation. Furthermore, it also prolongs the tan, getting a perfect color for more time. Melatime speeds up melanin production, providing a faster and longer-lasting tan. Melatime provides a natural tan to the skin and prevents the skin from the UV-induced free radical effects, such as photoaging, by shortening UV-exposure times.
Applications: Skin care, sun care and color cosmetics
Use Levels: 1-3%
Comments: A natural lipophilic extract of a meristematic culture of licorice root, a well-known skin brightening agent. This extract visibly brightens skin while minimizing the appearance of imperfections.
Lonza Consumer Care
Tel: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonzaconsumercare.com
Lonzest DC
INCI: Dicaprylyl carbonate
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care and hair care
Use levels: 1-20%
Comments: A dry feeling, lightweight emollient ester that conditions skin, enhances solubility of UV sun filters and is an exceptional pigment wetter.
ReGeniStem Brightening CR
INCI: Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil
Applications: Skin care, sun care and color cosmetics
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: A natural lipophilic extract of a meristematic culture of licorice root, a well-known skin brightening agent. This extract visibly brightens skin while minimizing the appearance of imperfections.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Brecksville, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer
INCI: Acrylates copolymer
Use Level: 1-3% as-supplied
Applications: Emulsions with high level of oils, organic UV filters and high levels of TiO2 or iron oxide pigments such as sun care, skin perfecting or alphabet lotions and creams, liquid foundations.
Comments: Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer imparts excellent emulsion stabilization and pigment suspension efficiency. Its ability to disperse TiO2, and its electrolytes compatibility, with a soft sensory, makes it ideal to create formulas that offer better protection with pleasant aesthetics for sun care and skin care applications.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Helioguard 365
INCI: Aqua/water (and) lecithin (and) alcohol (and) sodium lactate (and) porphyra umbilicalis extract (and) phenoxyethanol
Applications: Anti-aging products, pre-sun and after- sun formulations
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Helioguard 365 imparts natural and safe UVA protection for everyday use. It helps protect the skin from DNA damage, and helps prevent the appearance of lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging by actively protecting the skin against UVA-induced stresses.
SunActin
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract (and) tocopherols (and) glycerin (and) lecithin (and) phenoxyethanol (and) aqua/water
Applications: Skin care with SPF protection, sun care products, Anti-aging formulations
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: SunActin boosts the protective effect of sunscreens, and enhances the skin’s defense capacity. It helps prevent the formation of sunburn cells and protects skin from UV induced oxidative stress. SunActin is able to inhibit the release of MMPs and helps reduce the signs of aging.
PhytoCellTec Solar Vitis
INCI: Vitis vinifera (grape) fruit cell extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) sodium benzoate (and) aqua/water
Applications: Advanced “stem cell cosmetic” formulas, face and body care, to protect the most valuable skin cells, the stem cells, daily skin care formulations to prevent photo-aging.
Use Levels: 0.4-1%
Comments: PhytoCellTec Solar Vitis protects skin stem cells against UV stress and increases the skin’s UV tolerance. It fights the effects of photo-aging, and yields vital and healthy-looking skin. It protects both the skin and the epidermal stem cells against the stresses induced by UV irradiation.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com,
www.silicones.jp
USG-117A
INCI: Dimethicone (and) plysilicone-11
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products: clear anhydrous creams, lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; hair styling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.; hair conditioners.
Use levels: Emulsions (2-25%), anhydrous (15-90%), hair products (1-30%).
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s USG silicone elastomer series is a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG117A is the newest addition to the line in which the crosspolymer is swollen in the 6 cS dimethiocne with narrow molecular weight distribution. The product offers an exceptional cushioning (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The carrier is a special grade of dimethicone with a narrow molecular weight distribution tha affords silky and dry skin feel and superb compatibility with organic UV filters. Additionally, the product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as organic esters and some organic UV filters. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.
KF-6048
INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 dimethicone
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care—lotions, creams, self-tanners; color cosmetics—foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers; Hair styling—cuticle coats, gels, emulsions.
Comments: KF-6048 is a high quality, high purity multifunctional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. It is particularly useful in stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens without the heavy greasy feel. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
KSG-18A
INCI name: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Use Level: Emulsions (2-25%), anhydrous (15-90%), hair products (1-30%).
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products— lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; hairstyling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s KSG silicone elastomer is part of a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective and elegant solutions for the formulation chemists. KSG-18A is a phenyl modified silicone gel in a low viscosity phenyl modified emollient carrier. The product offers an exceptional cushioning (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long lasting effects. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.•
According to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm, sales of sun care products in US multi-outlets rose less than 1% last year to $1.1 billion (see chart 2). Once again, private label (PL) topped the list of best-selling products with a 15%dollar share, putting PL comfortably ahead of Coppertone Sport in the race for the No. 1 spot (see chart 1). But it doesn’t matter if it’s a national or store brand—if the sun won’t shine, then everyone suffers.
“It was a tough year for a lot of us,” admitted Stuart J. Straus, CEO, Sun and Skin Care Research. “It was rainy and cold in 2013 and that impacted 2014 due to deep discounting by retailers and pantry-loading by consumers.”
As a result, according to Straus, a lot of retailers were concerned about making big investments in the 2014 sun care season. But enough about the not so distant past; sunny skies must surely be ahead and if there is sun, there’s ultraviolet radiation and its attendant damage.
In fact, Jeff Murad, VP-new product development, Murad Inc., called UV damage “probably the most detrimental factor to the health and usefulness of skin.”
He noted that UV damage causes wrinkles, fine lines and much, much more.
“One of the most common effects from UV damage is uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation and that’s what consumers want help with most of all—even more than wrinkles,” according to Murad.
That’s why Murad has incorporated UV protection into all of its skin care products—not just traditional sun care formulas.
“Whether it’s our acne products or our Resurgence line, sun protection plays a vital role in all of our formulas,” he told Happi.
Next month, Murad will introduce Invisblur Perfecting Shield SPF 30, which the company calls a multi-tasking formula that immediately treats the visible signs of aging, blurs imperfections and protects against UV damage.
Think Sun
Marketers have done a good job alerting consumers about the dangers of getting too much sun—but a teacher’s work is never done and it all still comes back to education, according to Patricia Agin, PhD, distinguished scientist, scientific affairs, in the sun care innovation research and development group at Bayer.
“We are the leading brand and we are educating the consumer to use sunscreen,” she told Happi. These efforts expand the category and encourage the regular use of sunscreen.
“The consumer has to learn that the use of sunscreen is a winning proposition,” Agin added.
But getting them to use sunscreen day in and day out, no matter where they’re located takes more than education. Consumers have to want to use sunscreen and that’s where aesthetics come into play, and is one of the areas where Coppertone and its team of researchers has focused in recent years.
In 2014, for example, Coppertone launched Clearly Sheer, which not only provides broad-spectrum SPF 30 protection, but also promises to leave skin soft, is fast-absorbing and feels clean and light, according to the company. In addition, it won’t cause breakouts—something that women and men worry about even when they’re well past the hypersensitive adolescent and teen years.
“We asked women what they look for in a sun care product and they told us that they want something for every day activities, not just the vacation or beach—something that they like and can use every day,” recalled Agin. “Our products are based on consumer insights on skin feel and fragrance choice. We’re always looking at inactives for skin feel. We look at every ingredient to see how they feel.”
Clearly Sheer is available in two formulas—For Sunny Days (SPF 15 and SPF 30 variants) and Beach & Pool (SPF 50). Clearly Sheer joined a broad array of Coppertone sun care formulas such as Wet n Clear, UltraGuard and Sport.
“We’re trying to make sunscreen more convenient and acceptable,” explained Agin. “Now, we’re expanding our AccuSpray continuous spray that helps consumers control and target sunscreen application.”
For 2015, the AccuSpray technology was added to Coppertone Sport in SPF 15, 30, 50 and 70 variants.
The Coppertone team is determined to make its mark in the fast-growing tattoo category, too. According to a 2014 survey by the Pew Research Center, more than a third of Americans ages 18 to 25 have a tattoo, and about 40% of Americans ages 26 to 40 have tattoos. Unfortunately, the same UV rays that cause skin to wrinkle can wreak havoc with skin ink, too. Coppertone Tattoo Guard Continuous Spray provides SPF 50 protection in a moisturizing formula that helps maintain the smooth appearance of tattooed skin.
The AccuSpray continuous spray technology is rolling out into Coppertone formulas such as Ultra Guard and Coppertone Kids. The technology is designed to deliver a continuous spray that the consumer can control and spray at any angle for quick and even application.
Spray’s the thing at Hampton Sun, as well. Toward the end of 2014, the company rolled out Sunless Tanning Mist in a continuous spray format to Neiman Marcus and the product sold out in two weeks, noted Salvatore Piazzolla, CEO.
“Everybody likes a healthy glow, and everybody looks younger with a tan,” he explained. “Our sales are up in the triple digits in Neiman Marcus. Kelly St. John (the retailer’s vice president divisional merchandise manager of beauty) is a huge fan of Hampton Sun.”
Piazzolla hopes to duplicate that success with the recent introduction into Bergdorf Goodman and a new partnership with Red Door Spa that will put Hampton Sun in all of Red Door’s, well, doors. Also new from Hampton Sun is Lip Soleil, which not only protects delicate lips with SPF 30, but also provides lip plumping benefits.
At press time, year-to-date, Hampton Sun’s sales soared nearly 50%.
“We’re super excited. We have 24 products now and we’re building our infrastructure,” said Piazzolla. “We keep meeting and exceeding our targets by staying true to who we are: we’re a lifestyle brand with no direct competition.”
Keep Focused
Sun and Skin Care Research calls itself the fourth largest player in the US sun care market, behind multinationals Bayer, Energizer and Johnson & Johnson. But competing against these Goliaths doesn’t phase Straus, who noted that bigger companies face a host of issues, while Sun and Skin Care Research (S&SCR) can stay focused on just a couple of categories.
“For 2015 we have refocused the No-Ad brand back to our roots—great formula, great performance and a great price per ounce,” he explained. “No-Ad is a value brand, but it doesn’t interact with private label any more than any other brand.”
For now, the strategy seems to be working. For the four weeks ended Jan. 28, 2015, No-Ad’s unit sales rose 13.7% and 8.4% in dollars.
New for 2015
For the 2015 season, S&SCR is rolling out No-Ad Oil-Free Face Lotion SPF 30, which is billed as a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula that won’t clog pores. The formula contains watermelon extract, which is loaded with vitamin C and antioxidants.
“It’s got all the benefits of the leading brands, such as dermatologist-tested and hypoallergenic, but instead of a 3oz package, we’re giving consumers 6oz,” noted Straus. “That’s double the value and it gets retailers excited.”
According to Straus, there are plenty of consumers who just can’t afford $7 for a 3oz sun care product, which should provide a boost to demand for the new face lotion from No-Ad. Under the same brand, S&SCR introduced a Sports stick.
Under the Ocean Potion brand, the company has rolled out Ever Glow Daily Moisturizer with Gentle Skin Darkener that is designed to maintain already developed color or create a subtle summer color for light and medium skin tones.
Bullfrog sunscreen, which is now part of S&SCR, is preferred by surfers, lifeguards and triathletes—a loyal bunch that not only buys what Bullfrog sells, they want Bullfrog products that haven’t been available for years. When the brand debuted in 1989, the offerings included something called Surf Formula Gel, which was discontinued by Chattem, Bullfrog’s previous owner.
“We received so many requests that we decided to bring it back, with a new formula that stays on the face,” noted Straus.
It must work, since no one’s shying away from Surf Formula Gel’s price tag; a 1.9oz bottle retails for $9.99. Also new from Bullfrog is a clear zinc Quick Stick SPF 50 for on-the-go coverage that should appeal to hikers, bikers and outdoor competitors. The water-resistant, fragrance-free formula retails for $9.99.
Changes (or Not)
Whether they’re making products for babies, kids, adults or athletes, nearly every sun care formulator could use more active ingredients. For years, industry experts have bemoaned the fact that while the US Food and Drug Administration has approved 17 category I ingredients, one is exclusive to L’Oréal (ecamsule) and six (PABA, padimate-O, cinoxate, meradimate, sulisobenzone and trolamine salicylate) are rarely used in formulas for a variety of reasons. That leaves just 10 actives to choose from, and even some of those have their limitations.
But with the passage of The Sunscreen Innovation Act in January, formulators may eventually have as many as eight new ingredients to work with, including amiloxate, bemotrizinol, bisoctrizol, drometrizole trisiloxane, ecamsule, enzacamene, isocotrizinol and octly triazone—just don’t expect these ingredients to show up on product labels anytime soon.
“We support the process and are looking forward to using new ingredients, but right now the Act hasn’t had any impact, because no new ingredient has reached the approval stage,” noted Agin. “Actives must meet current FDA guidelines.”
Agin noted that Coppertone products already exceed UVA protection standards and was quick to point out that US consumers are not getting short-changed on protection compared to Europeans.
Murad, however, insisted that there are at least a dozen fantastic sunscreens in Europe that aren’t available in the State and that limits the US industry’s ability to formulate. He is particularly intrigued by Tinosorb M and S, but at this point, Murad can’t even test the materials in the US, he explained.
One big change for Coppertone that consumers probably won’t even notice is the change in ownership; the brand, along with the entire Merck consumer healthcare business, was acquired by Bayer in October for $14.2 billion.
“It’s an exciting opportunity for us,” insisted Agin. “One of the wonderful things is that Bayer is also a big OTC company with well-known brands that are No. 1 in many markets, but there is no overlap with our products.”
Both operations have a rich heritage in science and innovation. Now, more than five months into the integration, Agin said the new ownership represents an opportunity to combine what Coppertone does well with what Bayer does well, merge them into a combined unit take a closer look at consumer healthcare needs.
“We will have a deeper talent pool as we go forward and there will be opportunities to combine those talents,” she added.
A Natural Fit
Kiss My Face found a talented industry veteran in Jean Fufidio who joined the company two years ago after stints at Playtex and Banana Boat. As chief marketing officer for Kiss My Face, she is determined to grow the company’s sun care business as swiftly as possible.
“Our products work. We’re in a good place in a growing category,” Fufidio told Happi. “Conventional products are not growing like natural.”
To back up that statement, she cited data that “natural” sun care sales rose 12% in food, drug and mass for the year ended Sept. 7, 2014. During that time, Kiss My Face’s sun care sales surged 28%, according to Fufidio. The company’s products contain zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, as well as octinaoxate, octisalate and avobenzone. Formulas also contain hydrasia, a safflower extract that boosts moisturizing properties.
For 2015, Kiss My Face launched Baby’s First Kiss, which is available in lotion and continuous spray formats.
“We knew we were missing the baby,” recalled Fufidio. “Moms love to pamper baby and they love to bond with baby. Sun care gives her that ability to bond with baby.”
Bonds are nice, but so is cash. Fufidio explained that baby care is growing 15% in the natural segment.
“We’re boosting dollar share as well as the baby share in the market basket,” Fufidio noted. “When a mom is buying sun care for herself and other members of the family, she should be thinking about baby, too.”
Of course, keeping babies out of the sun for the first six months of their lives is standard operating procedure when it comes to kids. Baby’s First Kiss is billed as being tear-free, chemical-free and not test on animals. The continuous spray format works on a chemical propellant-free bladder system.
As Kiss My Face and similar competitors expand their sun care lineups, Fufidio is confident that the natural sun care category will continue to outpace conventional sun care product sales now that consumers can choose from products for baby, kids, sport, face and adult. At the same time, Kiss My Face is expanding distribution, going deeper into Whole Foods and other natural retailers, but also expanding into CVS and conventional drugstores.
“Our consumer shops frequently in natural retailers like Sprouts and Whole Foods, but not exclusively,” explained Fufidio. “She is someone who is aware of the health benefits in buying natural food and personal care products, but she shops in supermarkets and drugstores, too.”
Wherever consumers shop, play or work, UV protection plays an important role in maintaining skin health. Sun care formulators are developing product formulas and forms to ensure that UV protection is as convenient and effective as possible.
Looking for a new ingredient for your sun care formula? Begin your search here.
Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry
Tel: 800-906-9977
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Dermacryl E polymer
INCI: Styrene/acrylates copolymer
Applications: Recreational sun protection products, daily wear moisturizers with SPF, tinted sun protection products, color cosmetics, face, body, hand, and foot creams and lotions
Use Levels: 1-5% active
Comments: Dermacryl E polymer provides effective and durable film formation, enabling the formulation of long-lasting, high SPF emulsion systems. Easy to use and cost effective, Dermacryl E polymer helps to create a wide range of products that provide excellent skin feel on application and dry-down, with appeal to consumers seeking the best in sun protection.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Acai Oil
INCI: Euterpe oleracea (Acai) fruit oil
Applications: After sun products
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Powerful antioxidant and natural emollient rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, anthocyanins and phytosterols. It has excellent moisture retention properties and helps restore skin elasticity. Can help damaged skin and heal dry, chapped or cracked skin. Used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Abyssinian Oil
INCI: Crambe Abyssinica seed oil
Applications: After sun products
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Can help protect, repair and replenish damaged skin cells caused by sun damage and exposure. Can help smooth wrinkles and reduce appearance of scars. Hydrates and nourishes skin and helps sensitive skin. Promotes even skin tone and helps diminish sun spots. Can be used as a skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Passion Fruit Oil
INCI: Passiflora edulis seed oil
Applications: after sun products
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Superior emollient, rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin A & C, calcium and phosphorus. Nourishes, treats and helps in healing dry, itchy skin conditions. Has a calming, soothing effect on skin and can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
BASF Corporation
Florham Park, NJ
Tel: 973-245-7638
Email: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: www.carecreations.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP/index.html
Tinosorb A2B
INCI: Tris-biphenyl triazine
Applications: Skin care, sun care, anti-aging and body care
Use Levels: UVA and UVB filter
Comments: Tinosorb A2B is an innovative, broad-spectrum UV filter which provides protection from UVB and UVAII wavelengths from 290 through to 340nm. Due to its superior UV absorbance capabilities, it is one of the most efficient UV filters available on the market. It closes the protection gap in the UVAII range that was previously not available. It is used in skin care, sun care, anti-aging, and body care.
Z-Cote LSA-UC
INCI: Zinc oxide
Applications: Sun care, skin care, baby care and sensitive skin
Use Levels: UVA and UVB filter
Comments: Z-Cote LSA UC is a natural, broad-spectrum sunscreen that enables radiant and gentle formulations suitable for beach wear, daily wear and sensitive skin. Z-Cote LSA UC’s particulates are uncoated and measure greater than 100 nanometers in size. In addition, Z-Cote is naturally derived, allowing companies and their formulators to make “natural” claims that continue to be of growing importance and interest in the overall marketplace.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Regu-scence
INCI: Propanediol, glycerin, water, asparagus officinalis stem extract
Applications: Sun care and anti-aging skin products
Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Comments: Regu-scence is a unique water-soluble extract of the Navarro asparagus peel. The Navarro asparagus is cultivated in Spain and is particularly rich in saponins, which are the main active compounds for stimulation of autophagy. The stimulation of autophagy by Regu-scence helps to stimulate cell renewal. Regu-scence provides an overall skin rejuvenation effect and improved skin appearance.
Neossance Hemisqualane
INCI: C13-15 alkane
Applications: Sun and skin care products
Use Levels: 5.0-50.0%
Comments: Neossance Hemisqualane is a natural alternative to petroleum-based parafiins and silicone ingredients. Hemisqualane is an emollient with a great sensory profile. Hemisqualane provides numerous benefits including high spreadability for a smooth, easy application, resulting in a non-greasy feel. Hemisqualane helps to solubilize UV filters while leaving imparting a silky, light feel.
Croda
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
Volarest FL
INCI: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer
Use Levels: 1.0-2.5%
Applications: Sprayable sunscreens, sprayable emulsions, water lotions, clear suspensions
Comments: Volarest FL is a truly unique polymer providing benefits for both the consumer and formulator. Volarest FL delivers controlled, targeted delivery from sprayable emulsions, novel textures that excite the user and the weightless suspension of emollients and beads in low viscosity fluids. Volarest FL creates novel, elegant and visually-appealing product formats that enhance the consumer experience of your brand.
Oleocraft LP-20
INCI: Polyamide-8
Use Levels: 1-30%
Applications: Eye makeup, lipglosses, lipsticks and sunscreens
Comments: Oleocraft LP-20 is a vegetable derived rheology modifier and water repellency agent for formulation with low-polarity organic liquids for cosmetic and personal care applications. It can be used to gel non-polar organic liquids such as emollients, mineral oils or esters for color cosmetic applications and it can be used to form stable, aesthetically pleasing water-in-gelled oil or silicone-in-gelled oil emulsions. Its film forming properties provide water resistance benefits in sunscreens.
EMD Chemicals
Tel: 484-652-5600
Email: rona@emdmillipore.com
Website: www.emd-pm.com
RonaCare Bronzyl
INCI: Dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate
Applications: Daily Skin Care and Night Care
Sun Care—Sunscreens, Pre- and After-Sun, Self Tanning Formulations
Use Levels: 0.05-0.2%
Comments: RonaCare Bronzyl is a brand new biological tanner from EMD that helps enable tanning with a natural and even skin tone, which in turn can contribute to UV protection. It contributes to the appearance of an even, natural tan in day creams, especially for those who prefer a gradual tan.
Eusolex T-Easy
INCI: Titanium dioxide (for EU: titanium dioxide (nano), silica, cetyl phosphate
Applications: Sun and day care products, self-tanners and skin lighteners
Use Levels: 2-15%
Comments: EMD Chemical’s microfine titanium dioxide product Eusolex T-Eeasy helps balance your formulations—particularly with those containing cosmetic ingredients which are problematic when combined with conventional microfine titanium dioxide. Eusolex T-EASY has an excellent photostability and thus fully complies with the new SCCS Opinion on titanium dioxide.
Grant Industries
Tel: 201-791-6700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Gransil VX-418
INCI: Bis-stearyl dimethicone
Applications:
Use Levels: 1-20%
Comments: Benefits include improving the feel and texture of SPF products along with SPF boosting via improved UV filter deposition.
Interpolymer Corp.
Canton, MA
Tel: 781-828-7120
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Website: www.interpolymer.com
Syntran PC 5227CG
INCI: Polyacrylate 15 (and) polyacrylate 17
Use Levels: 4-7%
Applications: SPF booster
Comments: The Syntran PC 5227CG is an acrylate grafted olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy of organic UV absorbers for a higher SPF and so it permits formulators of sun protection products to reduce the content of the active SPF ingredients.
Kobo Products, Inc.
Tel: 908-941-3409
Email: bskwirut@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
Composite ACZ-50
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) acrylates copolymer (and) kaolin (and) sodium polyacrylate
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels, powders
Use Levels: 1-20%
Comments: A patent-pending technology is used to create a particle suitable for the attenuation of UV light. ZnO is dispersed then entrapped inside a micron-size acrylates copolymer matrix. Composite ACZ-50’s process reduces agglomeration of the encapsulated material resulting in high efficacy, minimal whitening and enhanced tactile properties upon application.
SunBoost ATB Natural
INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) bisabolol
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: This all natural product is a proprietary ratio of antioxidants, and anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory agents. It can boost SPF and PFA scores of a sunscreen formulation by greater than 30% when used in conjunction with conventional UV filters. SunBoost ATB Natural can also deliver anti-aging, hydration, rejuvenation and anti-irritation benefits.
TNSS Dispersions
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Emulsions, gels
Use Levels: 1-34%
Comments: Kobo now offers two new sunscreen dispersions containing attenuation grade or non-nano zinc oxide. The dispersion carrier is ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, a highly effective photo stabilizer and UVA booster that maintains the integrity of UV filters. These dispersions can also boost critical wavelength over using ZnO on its own.
Lipotec LLC
A Lubrizol Corporation Company
Tel: 201-850-1213
Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
Juveleven Peptide Solution
INCI: Butylene glycol, water (aqua) acetyl hexapeptide-51 amide
Applications: Sun care, anti-aging, anti-pollution, UV protection
Use Levels: 2%
Comments: A hexapeptide that mimics the activity of FOXO3a (member of the Forkhead box transcriptional factors), which is involved in cell repair, renewal and longevity. Juveleven peptide protects DNA from damage, stimulates its natural repair pathways and reverts senescence in fibroblasts. It maintains genomic integrity by protecting and repairing DNA damage induced by several agents and delays cellular senescence to ensure a longer and healthier aging.
Lipochroman Synthetic Molecule
INCI: Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
Applications: Sun care, anti-aging, anti-pollution, UV protection
Use Levels: 0.01-0.05%
Comments: A Chromane that protects biomolecules and cellular functions from the damage caused by the reactive species generated from air pollution or UV radiation, as well as from endogenous sources, consequently preventing the premature signs of aging. Lipochroman is a scavenger or ROS and RNS that inhibits protein activation and DNA damage and prevents cell death due to oxidative stress.
Melatime peptide solution
INCI: Butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40
Applications: Sun care and tanning
Use levels: 5%
Comments: A novel peptide that boosts the tanning process of the skin exposed to UV radiation. Furthermore, it also prolongs the tan, getting a perfect color for more time. Melatime speeds up melanin production, providing a faster and longer-lasting tan. Melatime provides a natural tan to the skin and prevents the skin from the UV-induced free radical effects, such as photoaging, by shortening UV-exposure times.
Applications: Skin care, sun care and color cosmetics
Use Levels: 1-3%
Comments: A natural lipophilic extract of a meristematic culture of licorice root, a well-known skin brightening agent. This extract visibly brightens skin while minimizing the appearance of imperfections.
Lonza Consumer Care
Tel: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonzaconsumercare.com
Lonzest DC
INCI: Dicaprylyl carbonate
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care and hair care
Use levels: 1-20%
Comments: A dry feeling, lightweight emollient ester that conditions skin, enhances solubility of UV sun filters and is an exceptional pigment wetter.
ReGeniStem Brightening CR
INCI: Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil
Applications: Skin care, sun care and color cosmetics
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: A natural lipophilic extract of a meristematic culture of licorice root, a well-known skin brightening agent. This extract visibly brightens skin while minimizing the appearance of imperfections.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Brecksville, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer
INCI: Acrylates copolymer
Use Level: 1-3% as-supplied
Applications: Emulsions with high level of oils, organic UV filters and high levels of TiO2 or iron oxide pigments such as sun care, skin perfecting or alphabet lotions and creams, liquid foundations.
Comments: Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer imparts excellent emulsion stabilization and pigment suspension efficiency. Its ability to disperse TiO2, and its electrolytes compatibility, with a soft sensory, makes it ideal to create formulas that offer better protection with pleasant aesthetics for sun care and skin care applications.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Helioguard 365
INCI: Aqua/water (and) lecithin (and) alcohol (and) sodium lactate (and) porphyra umbilicalis extract (and) phenoxyethanol
Applications: Anti-aging products, pre-sun and after- sun formulations
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Helioguard 365 imparts natural and safe UVA protection for everyday use. It helps protect the skin from DNA damage, and helps prevent the appearance of lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging by actively protecting the skin against UVA-induced stresses.
SunActin
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract (and) tocopherols (and) glycerin (and) lecithin (and) phenoxyethanol (and) aqua/water
Applications: Skin care with SPF protection, sun care products, Anti-aging formulations
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: SunActin boosts the protective effect of sunscreens, and enhances the skin’s defense capacity. It helps prevent the formation of sunburn cells and protects skin from UV induced oxidative stress. SunActin is able to inhibit the release of MMPs and helps reduce the signs of aging.
PhytoCellTec Solar Vitis
INCI: Vitis vinifera (grape) fruit cell extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) sodium benzoate (and) aqua/water
Applications: Advanced “stem cell cosmetic” formulas, face and body care, to protect the most valuable skin cells, the stem cells, daily skin care formulations to prevent photo-aging.
Use Levels: 0.4-1%
Comments: PhytoCellTec Solar Vitis protects skin stem cells against UV stress and increases the skin’s UV tolerance. It fights the effects of photo-aging, and yields vital and healthy-looking skin. It protects both the skin and the epidermal stem cells against the stresses induced by UV irradiation.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com,
www.silicones.jp
USG-117A
INCI: Dimethicone (and) plysilicone-11
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products: clear anhydrous creams, lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; hair styling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.; hair conditioners.
Use levels: Emulsions (2-25%), anhydrous (15-90%), hair products (1-30%).
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s USG silicone elastomer series is a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG117A is the newest addition to the line in which the crosspolymer is swollen in the 6 cS dimethiocne with narrow molecular weight distribution. The product offers an exceptional cushioning (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The carrier is a special grade of dimethicone with a narrow molecular weight distribution tha affords silky and dry skin feel and superb compatibility with organic UV filters. Additionally, the product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as organic esters and some organic UV filters. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.
KF-6048
INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 dimethicone
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care—lotions, creams, self-tanners; color cosmetics—foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers; Hair styling—cuticle coats, gels, emulsions.
Comments: KF-6048 is a high quality, high purity multifunctional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. It is particularly useful in stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens without the heavy greasy feel. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
KSG-18A
INCI name: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Use Level: Emulsions (2-25%), anhydrous (15-90%), hair products (1-30%).
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products— lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; hairstyling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s KSG silicone elastomer is part of a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective and elegant solutions for the formulation chemists. KSG-18A is a phenyl modified silicone gel in a low viscosity phenyl modified emollient carrier. The product offers an exceptional cushioning (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long lasting effects. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.•