Tom Branna, Editorial Director03.01.17
Not so long ago, it was lotion or nothing when it came to UV protection forms. In fact, the aptly named “Slip-slop-slap” was an internationally-recognized promotional campaign that tried to get Aussies and Kiwis to apply sunscreen lotion on a regular basis. Twenty years later, that effort may sound more like “pschitt, pshcitt, pschitt” as most of the newest forms of sun care products emphasize an easier way to wear UV protection.
Marketers and their raw material suppliers insist that they’ve done a good job creating effective products. Now, they just have to get consumers to use them, and use them more often. One way to do that is to create aesthetically-pleasing product forms.
With its Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic brands, Edgewell Personal Care is the leading player in the US sun care market. For Summer 2017, Banana Boat is adding Dry Balance in sunscreen lotion and Clear Ultramist. According to Tracy Garbowski, senior brand manager, Banana Boat, Dry Balance draws away excess moisture and dry with a soft matte finish to help you feel balanced and fresh. Its lightweight, non-greasy formula allows skin to breathe while providing safe and effective broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Dry Balance is available in SPF 30 and 50+ in lotion and Clear UltraMist formats.
“To allow the Dry Balance sunscreens to be breathable and smooth, we have added silicone to the lotion,” explained Garbowski. “Silicone has a high absorption for moisture and sebum, which eliminates oil to give skin a drier after-feel once applied. We’ve also added emollients to the Clear UltraMist which enables the sunscreen to dry quickly while leaving very little residue on the skin, resulting in a non-greasy and non-oily feel.”
The Dry Balance portfolio also has a new scent that is a blend of citrus, floral and vanilla.
The Kids Sunscreen portfolio has been expanded with an SPF 50+ PowerStay Technology that provides heavy duty protection that stays on during activities. Both products are formulated to stay on in seven conditions—sun, pool water, ocean water, wind, sweat, sand and even 100 degree heat, according to Edgewell.
The Hawaiian Tropic franchise is extending its Silk Hydration Weightless and Island Sport portfolios. Silk Hydration Weightless C-Spray and Silk Hydration Weightless Face Lotion Sunscreen SPF 30 are the latest innovations in the Silk Hydration Weightless Portfolio. Both new Silk Hydration formulas feature the line’s signature hydrating ribbons for up to 12-hours of skin moisturization in the breathable formula while providing broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection.
“The facial sunscreen innovation from Hawaiian Tropic has an ultra-luxurious feel and light tropical scent that pampers skin without clogging pores, leaving skin feeling soft, moisturized and indulgent,” said Garbowski. “The extension of the Silk Hydration Weightless line to include a clear spray sunscreen makes for an easy application that leaves you feeling hydrated and pampered like no other sunscreen can.”
Hawaiian Tropic is also adding an SPF 50 to the lotion and Clear Spray formulations within its Island Sport portfolio. Providing high performance protection, Island Sport sunscreen features a fast-absorbing and sweat-resistant formula that is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes. It also moisturizes skin, has a light tropical scent and is ultra-lightweight.
Whip It Good
Bayer, too, is focused on aesthetics, rolling out a whipped Coppertone formula that took years of work at its Solar Research Center, explained Lisa Perez, marketing director, sun care.
“Whipped is truly an innovative product form,” she told Happi. “We wanted protection in a rich, creamy foam that goes on quickly. It absorbs nicely, feels really soft and smooth, and because consumers can see it, they are confident that they are getting proper coverage.”
Coppertone Whipped is available in both the ClearlySheer and Water Babies lines. Company executives say the new format will transform the experience of applying sunscreen from a mandatory task to something consumers can look forward to doing before they head outdoors. But just to be sure they try it, Coppertone is doing some heavy promotion ahead of the season.
“Coppertone does a lot of national advertising,” noted Perez. “We are getting behind the whipped format in a big way. We are looking into more trial and demo to get it into consumers’ hands to surprise and delight them.”
Cautious moms may want to give WaterBabies Pure & Simple Free sunscreen a squirt. The formula still provides broad-spectrum protection, but it’s free of fragrance, parabens, PABA and dyes. According to Perez, there’s a consumer group that’s perfectly happy to apply a chemical, rather than a physical, sunblock on their kids, but they’re looking to avoid certain ingredients.
To get the word out on its WaterBabies offerings, Coppertone is putting an emphasis on digital advertising.
“It’s a nice shift from print,” she explained. “We are getting into more social media to have two-way engagement and be where moms are.”
For those who prefer the simplicity of a stick format, there’s Coppertone Sport Stick and WaterBabies Pure & Simple Stick. The bigger, angled stick makes it easier to apply, too. For the 2017 season, Coppertone Sport entered Costco for the first time.
“Last year was a good year for the category, which got some late summer help,” recalled Perez. “This year, we think Coppertone will be in the forefront to drive category growth. We’re very excited about our innovative products and marketing plans that will reach consumers in new and different ways.”
The Bayer launches come at a time when the US sun care market is posting good gains. US sales rose nearly 5% to more than $1.2 billion last year, according to IRI (see charts, p. 70). Among the major players, Neutrogena has made the biggest move during the past year as sales rose more than 9%.
“Two-thousand sixteen was a blockbuster year for Neutrogena sun care. We significantly outpaced the category contributing to overall growth and officially became No. 1 best-selling sun care brand in the US this year,” said Sebastian Garcia-Vinyard, group brand director, Johnson & Johnson Consumer business.
Leading the charge was Ultra Sheer, which posted a 10.42% increase in sales and Cool Dry Sport, which had a 45% increase. According to Garcia-Vinyard, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer is a favorite, hero platform that embodies what Neutrogena sun stands for: best-in-class aesthetics and feel, with superior, powerful UVA/ UVB protection.
“One of the biggest barriers to consumer sunscreen usage is the feel when sunscreen is applied. However, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer is powered by our Dry-Touch Technology that absorbs extra sunscreen oils and leaves skin feeling light—never shiny or greasy. It’s powerful sun protection that consumers love to wear,” he explained.
Garcia-Vinyard credited Cool Dry Sport’s gain to the launch of an SPF 50 stick and SPF 50 lotion. Meanwhile Beach Defense sales grew 11%, too. He called it a family favorite since it delivers broad spectrum protection and is available in stick, lotion and spray formats.
Now that it’s out in front, Neutrogena is putting the pedal to the metal with the introduction of Neutrogena Sheer Zinc sunscreens, which are available in SPF 30 and 50 formats, and a specially formulated face variant that contains antioxidants and layers invisibly under makeup.
According to the company, the Neutrogena Sheer Zinc Dry-Touch formula contains a 100% mineral sunscreen and provides 2x better UVA protection than leading mineral sunscreens that contain only mineral active ingredients. Neutrogena says the formula is “clinically shown to be as gentle as water,” which may explain, in part, why it was awarded the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance.
Educators Needed
Garcia-Vinyard noted that skin cancer is at epidemic levels in the US, and sunscreen compliance continues to be very low. Last year, Neutrogena embraced behavioral science to find out what motivates its consumers to practice healthy sun protection habits.
“We launched the Mimic Mommy campaign, a year-long initiative to educate moms on the importance of practicing safe sun behaviors daily on themselves and their families, with the goal of raising the first sun safe generation,” he recalled. “This campaign led to behavior changes in mom, as well as an awareness in our best-in-class sun products.”
This year other sun care marketers are trying to move the needle, too. While its competitors roll out new products, executives at Solskyn, the maker of No-Ad, Bullfrog and Ocean Potion, are rolling up their sleeves and are determined to teach consumers just how important it is to be protected from the sun’s damaging UV rays.
“There is a growing awareness of skin cancer that is driving the market, but we have to educate consumers about how to use sunscreen, when and how much,” said Krisztina Toth, brand manager, Solskyn. “We want to focus on education this year; we believe that the brands and the media should do a better job of teaching proper UV protection.”
If anyone still needs proof that men and women still need to be educated about sun care habits, a recent Solskyn survey reveals plenty of blank spots in consumers’ knowledge about safe sun. Researchers found that less than half of moms (48%) knew the correct amount of sunscreen to apply to the face and body and 20% didn’t know that sunscreen must be reapplied after extended exposure. Perhaps more shocking is that more than 50% said the proper time to apply sunscreen is as soon as they feel their skin starting to burn.
When it comes to sun care, father knows less—or at least men in general aren’t up to speed on UV protection. According to a Solskyn survey of men, 20% don’t use any sunscreen at all. Among the 80% that do, the majority only apply it occasionally. Their lack of knowledge can be deadly as men are more likely to get skin cancer and die from melanoma, according to Toth.
“From our surveys (conducted in December 2016), we’ve learned how important it is to educate consumers to apply and reapply sun protection products every two hours, after towel drying, after swimming and after sweating,” said Toth.
After polling consumers and speaking with retail partners, Solskyn made the decision to stand pat with its product lineup.
“Retailers told us that the category is too confusing,” explained Toth. “There is an opportunity here to be more clear about the products that we bring to market.”
All three brands are growing, according to Toth. Now Solskyn is determined to bring value, and not just me-too products, to the market.
To get consumers to properly reapply, JADS International has developed SunBurn Alert UV wristbands and body stickers. The patented color-changing technology detects UVA and UVB rays. The waterproof designs work for one day.
A Changing Demographic
But not everyone agrees that every consumer is confused about sun care. J&J’s Garcia-Vinyard said there are three key areas where consumers’ attitude about sun care have changed.
“First, we saw growth in every day protection and selecting protection with higher SPFs as consumers are becoming savvier about their skin health and the dangers that sun exposure can cause,” he said. “Second, our consumers are more educated on the link between premature aging and sun exposure, so they are increasingly looking to sun protection as a way to prevent premature skin aging caused by sun exposure. We see more and more are moving from a singular focus on correction to preventative care.”
Finally, Garcia-Vinyard said many sun care consumers are increasing their sunscreen usage due to the vast variety of elegant sun care formulas that are available today.
“Sunscreen with skin care ingredients and natural/mineral-based sunscreens segments have grown considerably,” he told Happi.
According to Garbowski, recent surveys regarding the 2017 US travel forecast predict there will be a reduced demand in vacations.
“However, additional research in this area is ongoing and we are confident that Banana Boat products will be used domestically as well as abroad despite the vacation plans of consumers,” she told Happi.
Apart from weather, Edgewell executives have noticed that across the health, beauty and accessories market, there are changes in the demographics of the typical customer.
“The US population is aging and becoming more multi-cultural leading to an increased focus by customers and the industry on products that provide short and long term wellness benefits and that account for different skin types, respectively,” Garbowski explained. “There is also a growth in lower income households leading consumers to look for cost-effective products and resources. All of these present unique challenges and opportunities for the sun care industry each season.”
AAK
Tel: 973-741-5009
Email: john.okeefe@aak.com
Website: www.aakpersonalcare.com
Lipex SheaLight
INCI: Shea butter ethyl esters
Applications: Solubilizer, sensorial and performance enhancer, sustainability
Use levels: 1-25%
Comments: Eco-designed and sustainable. Produced using low energy processes from shea butter and ethanol from agricultural sources. Low viscosity, high polarity with silky, non-oily afterfeel. Good solubilizer of solid organic UV filters and excellent dispersant for inorganic UV filters. Lipex SheaLight does not break down on UV exposure and is not phototoxic.
Lipex PreAct
INCI: Canola oil
Applications: Photoprotection and reduced skin irritation, sustainability
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Lipex PreAct protects skin proteins and lipids against photo-oxidation, delivering functionality to reduce skin damage and environmental stress induced by UV exposure. It is highly suitable for use in sun-care and other formulations for outdoor use and products for sensitive and irritated skin due to its calming and soothing properties.
Lipex SheaTris
INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter extract
Applications: Anti-inflammatory, protection against environmental stress, sustainability
Use levels: 0.3-.0.5%
Comments: Lipex Shea Tris is a bioactive ingredient with 50-65% concentrate of triterpene esters. Lipex Shea Tris revitalizes the skin showing skin restoring, soothing and protecting properties. Lipex Shea Tris protects skin collagen structures and is shown to reduce inflammation markers such as TNF-a and PGE-2 after an exposure of 4 MED UVA+UVB.
Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Tel: 877-507-9303
Email: SPC_CSRNC@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajiaminobeauty.com
Eldew SL-205
INCI: Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate
Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup and hair care products
Use levels: 1-25 wt%
Comments: Eldew SL-205 is an amino acid-derived, highly polar emollient. It has the ability to readily dissolve poorly soluble materials such as organic UV filters and active ingredients, which gives formulators greater flexibility in developing new products. It also has a non-greasy and non-sticky dry oil like sensory feel.
Eldew PS-203R
INCI: Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup and hair care products
Use levels: 0.5-10 wt%
Comments: Eldew PS-203R is an amino acid-derived emollient. It has type III ceramide-like properties. It is very effective for the recovery of damaged skin caused by sunburns. It has excellent ability of dispersing inorganic UV filters and pigments. It has excellent water-holding capacity and high moisture permeability.
AJK-OD2046
INCI: Octyl dodecanol, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide
Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup products
Use levels: 1-30 wt%
Comments: AJK-OD2046 is a premix of Ajinomoto’s oil gelling agents GP-1 and EB-21 with Octyldodecanol. It can form clear sunscreen sticks, clear sunscreen lip products and sunscreen emulsions without impacting the sensory feel of the solvents. It provides hardness, viscosity and stability to the products even at high temperatures.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Evening Primrose Oil
INCI: Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil
Applications: After sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: A rich source of GLA, which is especially effective on dry skin. Evening Primrose Oil rejuvenate dry skin and help reduce inflammation. It can be used in a skin lotion, cream or moisturizer for after sun exposure.
Hemp Seed Oil
INCI: Cannabis savita (hemp) seed oil
Applications: Sunblock and sunscreens
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Hemp Seed Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. It is easily absorbed by the skin to provide essential fatty acids and other nutrients. It blocks UV rays and is ideal as a sunscreen agent.
Olive Oil
INCI: Olea europaea (olive) oil
Applications: After sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: A mild oil, rich in oleic acid, which is easily absorbed into the skin. Olive oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in a skin lotion, cream or moisturizer for after sun exposure.
Centerchem, Inc.
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Lingostem
INCI: Water, glycerin, vaccinium vitis-idaea fruit extract, citric acid, xanthan gum
Use levels: 1.0-2.0%
Applications: Anti-aging skin products, sun protection products
Comments: Lingostem is a natural cosmetic active ingredient based on plant stem cells obtained from Lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea). Lingostem is part of the Provital Stem Cells Collection product line, in which a controlled cell culture is developed from stem cells to achieve the synthesis of those natural compounds offering the required cosmetic properties. Lingostem is lingonberry stem cells designed to prevent and reverse photoaging, mimicking one of nature’s solutions to fight damaging effects of solar radiation in plants. Lingostem is able to repair and protect skin against the oxidative damage caused by solar radiations such as UV and IR-A, improving skin’s antioxidant activity, reducing wrinkles and spots, and improving moisturization, firmness and elasticity. The result is skin with a young and healthy appearance, which is more resilient against sun damage.
Neossance Hemisqualane
INCI: C13-15 alkane
Use levels: 5.0-50.0%
Applications: Sun care and skin care products
Comments: Neossance Hemisqualane is a natural alternative to petroleum-based parafiins and silicone ingredients. It is an emollient with a great sensory profile. Hemisqualane provides numerous benefits including high spreadability for a smooth, easy application, resulting in a non-greasy feel. Hemisqualane helps to solubilize UV filters while leaving imparting a silky, light feel.
Croda Inc.
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: Marketing-USA@Croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
Solaveil XTP-1
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) stearic acid (and) alumina
Applications: Color cosmetics, sun care, skin care
Use levels: 2-25%
Comments: Combining exceptional UVA protection with high UVB efficacy, this innovative titanium dioxide (TiO2) powder provides a straightforward method of making globally approved formulations, including color cosmetic powders, that offer high SPF, broad spectrum UV protection.
Crodarom
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-USA@croda.com
Website: www.crodarom.com
Phytessence Peach Flower
INCI: Glycerin, water, prunus persica (peach) flower extract
Applications: Skin care (creams, gels, lotions, gels, cleansers), foundations, masks, scalp care products, baby care, body care
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Comments: Phytessence Peach Flower protects the skin from pollution damage and de-asphyxiates the cells. By contributing to the diminution of epidermal oxidation, it fights against signs of skin aging and maintains cellular youth. It also lessens the accumulation of lipofusion, for a tone as rosy and fresh as the peach blossom.
Evonik
Tel: 804-727-0778
Website: personal-care.evonik.com
Tego Cosmo C 100
INCI: Creatine
Applications: Skin care, sun care
Use levels: 0.1-1.4%
Comments: Topical application of Creatine on UV damaged skin increases the availability of ATP by increasing the cellular energy reserve and provides energy necessary for the cells to synthesize key proteins such as collagen and elastin. Creatine provides protection and repair against premature aging and UV induced stress.
Koster Keunen Inc.
Tel: 860-945-3333
Email: puleo@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.kosterkeunen.com
Enhans SB-63
INCI: Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Enhans SB-63 was designed to increase SPF, improve the skin feel and elegance of the sunscreen product while maintaining lotion consistency. In-vivo research has shown that this modified natural wax will boost SPF of sunscreens made with organic filters through film-forming and film-thickening properties. Formulations and prototypes are available.
Enhans PC-38
INCI: Polyethylene, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, stearoxy dimethicone
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Enhans PC-38 is a blend of compounds designed to enhance SPF, improve formula elegance, not build emulsion viscosity and increase water resistance. Formulations and prototypes are available.
Enhans SY-62
INCI: Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelilla
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Enhans SY-62 was designed to improve SPF while maintaining formula elegance and will build viscosity in a formula. Our in-vivo research has shown that this modified natural wax will boost SPF of sunscreens made with organic filters and will improve thermal stability of formulations due to the high melting point of this wax. Formulations and prototypes are available.
Innospec
Tel: 704-633-8028
Email: Americas-pc@innospecinc.com
Website: www.innospecinc.com
Dispersun TN-50
INCI: C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) stearic acid
Applications: Good for use in sunscreen lotions, sprays, and daily wear SPF-containing cosmetics.
Comments: Dispersun TN-50 is a titanium dioxide in ester-oil dispersion used in sun care and cosmetic applications. It is easy to formulate with and a highly effective dispersed mixture for inorganic sunscreen filters. It can also be used to boost SPF when combined with organic sunscreen filters. Certified to contain no nanoparticles.
Dispersun ZS-73
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 dimethicone (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Good for use in sunscreen lotions, sprays, and daily wear SPF-containing cosmetics. Dispersun ZS-73 is a zinc dioxide in ester-oil dispersion used in suncare and cosmetic applications. It is easy to formulate with and a highly effective dispersed mixture for inorganic sunscreen filters. It can also be used to boost SPF when combined with organic sunscreen filters. Certified to contain no nanoparticles.
Use levels: 10-30%
Comments: Dispersun ZS-73 contains highly concentrated ZnO but leaves nice skin-feel, is fast drying with a matte appearance on skin. Compatible with silicone and ester-oils and suitable for water-in-oil emulsions. Provides the highest levels of UVA and UVB blocking. Helps increase SPF of sunscreens, excellent UV-cutting performance in the UVA range.
K-80
INCI: Dimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate
Applications: Clear flexible films for color cosmetics: mascaras, lip care, nail care and foundations, sun care and skin care: where long lasting wear is required
Comments: K-80 is a combination of a high active level of trimethylsiloxysilicate resin in a specialty dimethicone carrier that provides clear flexible films. Films produced by K-80 don’t flake or crack like typical trimethylsiloxysilicate blends. K-80 has improved feel and comfort of wear while maintaining water-, wash-off and sebum-resistance properties.
Jeen International
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2
INCI: PEG-150 distearate, cetearyl alcohol, polyquaternium-37
Applications: skin care, hair care, sun care
Use levels: 0.5-10%
Comments: A patented cationic emulsifier in a simple-to-use, free-flowing powder. This unique emulsifier base can transform simple formulations into elegant sophisticated emulsions mimicking the aesthetics of luxurious ingredients without the need or expense of adding sensorial boosting ingredients. Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 will impart a silky powdery finish even with extremely high oil loads making it an ideal ingredient for sun care formulations.
Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50
Description: Zinc oxide in olive oil
Applications: Sun care and sunscreens (organic and inorganic), after-sun treatment emulsions, baby care products.
Use levels: 0% to 50% (check region specific limits)
Comments: This all natural ingredient is a stable high solids (50%) dispersion of micro-fine zinc oxide in olive oil, Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50 is manufactured using advanced proprietary technology to maintain a consistent narrow particle size distribution (PSD) without agglomeration or the need to pre-treat the product. The controlled PSD minimizes and greatly diminishes the negative “whitening” effects typically associated with using zinc oxide. This easy to use dispersion blends in quickly contributing to production efficiencies and highest SPF value in finished products without agglomeration and an extensive manufacturing process.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Tel: 800-379-5389, 216-447-5000
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Avalure Flex-6 polymer
INCI: Polyurethane-62 and trideceth-6
Application: Skin, sun care, color cosmetics
Use levels: 0.8-1.5%
Comments: Allows you to create and stabilize water, sand and rub-off resistant sunscreens with a light, powdery afterfeel and uniform distribution on skin. With its wide UV filters and pigment compatibility properties, Avalure Flex-6 is perfect for use in a variety of sun care and daily skin care emulsions.
Morre-Tec Industries
Tel: 908-688-9009
Email: Sales@morretec.com
Website: www.morretec.com
Apalight
INCI: Hydroxyapatite
Applications: Natural patented sun filter booster
Use levels: up to 7.5%
Comments: Apalight, a natural, patented sun filters booster, it is a biofunctional, inorganic ingredient that is dermocompatible, and safe. It provides high photoprotective performance, anti-age and antioxidant effect. In addition to its soft-focus properties, Apalight has been clinically proven to visibly reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity and fight free radicals.
Vitamin D3
INCI: Cholecalciferol
Applications: Water soluble skin vitamin D enrichment
Use levels: Depends on the concentration and use level of those concentrations
Comments: Water soluble vitamin D. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that has antioxidant-skin-soothing benefits. Water-soluble version is easy to formulate with as a skin conditioner and moisturizer. SPF products, which limit the body’s UVB exposure-its vitamin D3 production is enriched with this ingredient along with anti-aging, facial and lip care products.
Penreco
Tel: 724-756-0110
Email: penreco@clmt.com
Website: www.penreco.com
Versagel SQ Gelled Squalane
INCI: Squalane (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Applications: Versagel SQ helps to facilitate an even distribution of the active sunscreen ingredients.
Use levels: n/a
Comments: Versagel SQ is a great additive or substitute in both oil-based formulas and emulsions. Versagel SQ is a gelled squalane product, which is naturally present in the skin lipid barrier and is an ingredient known for its exceptional moisturizing abilities and its ability to penetrate the skin to deliver benefits. Like jojoba, it closely mimics the body’s natural moisturizers and is absorbed quickly and effectively, without leaving greasy residue on the skin. Squalane is a non-GMO, plant-derived ingredient and Versagel SQ is a high quality replacement for shark and olive squalene. It is derived from plant sugar, is Ecocert-approved, and is readily biodegradable as well.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Tel: 908-757-4500
Email: cosmeticsales@sensient.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com
UVR TiO2 AS
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: sun care and sun filter
Use levels: up to 25%
Comments: UVR TiO2 AS is a new grade of high performance coated rutile TiO2 designed to meet changing global regulations. The alkyl silane coating of this ultrafine grade improves hydrophobicity and increases the dispersibility in oils and silicones while enhancing the wear resistance.
Seppic
Tel: 973-882-5597
Email: us.seppic@airliquide.com
Website: www.seppic.com
DUB Helioptima
INCI: Diisopropyl adipate and disopropyl sebacate and propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicraprate and C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Applications: Suncare, SPF boosting, light skins feel
Use levels: 5-10%
Comments: DUB Helioptima is an ester well suited for UV protection. It helps solubilization of sunscreens (both minerals & chemicals), increases SPF & imparts a unique sensory skin feel even with a high SPF. Its versatile properties minimize the processing steps & costs by acting as a solubilizer & SPF booster.
Emogreen L19
INCI: C15-19 alkane
Applications: Sun care, sunscreen spreading, soft finish
Use levels: 0.5-50%
Comments: Consumers usually dislike the “oily” and “sticky” skin feeling of high SPF formulas, discouraging multiple applications. Emogreen L19, new vegetable emollient, will transform the application into a delightful experience by improving the sunscreen spreading & leaving a weightless and soft finish, encouraging the consumers to apply more products, for an effective protection.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com
KF-6106
INCI: Polyglyeryl-3 poludimethylsiloxyetheyl dimethicone
Use levels: Dispersant, 10-30% based on dry powder weight; emulsifier, 2-10%
Applications: Sun care (creams, lotions, self-tanners, shake type sunscreen); color cosmetics (foundations and powders, shake type liquid foundations); lipsticks, skin care products
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone offers a line of polyglycerin modified silicone emulsifiers with different structures and functions. KF-6106 is the newest addition that also has outstanding capability to disperse powders. KF-6106 is multi-functional in that it acts as a wetting agent as well as a dispersant. It’s particularly useful to disperse superfine TiO2. Thanks to the branched siloxane group TiO2 dispersion made with KF-6106 shows stable low viscosity over time with excellent skin feel and transparency. It’s a versatile dispersant in that stable dispersions with high TiO2 loadings can be made with silicones or esters. KF-6106 is also effective to disperse Superfine ZnO. As an emulsifier, sunscreens made with KF-6106 show minimal “gel” formulation, which is the phenomenon responsible for the “sticky” feel in humid conditions. The polyglycerin grafting group is plant derived. Ambient processing is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
KP-578
INCI: Acrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer
Use level: 10-30% based on dry powder
Applications: Sun care products (creams, lotions, self-tanners, shake-type sunscreen), color cosmetics (foundations and powders), Shake type liquid foundations, lipsticks
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone offers an extensive line of siliconized acrylate film formers with different structures and functions. KP-578 is unique in that there are also hydrophilic grafting groups on the acrylate backbone that provides enhanced adhesion properties to powders. It’s particularly useful to disperse and stablbize superfine TiO2 powders.The silicone groups are responsible for the dispersion stability, low viscosity, transparency and good skin feel.
KF-6048
INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG 14/1 dimethicone
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care (lotions, creams, self-tanners), cosmetics (foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers), hair styling products (cuticle coats, gels, emulsions)
Comments: KF-6048 is a high quality, high purity multi-functional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. It is particularly useful in stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens without the heavy greasy feel. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
Symrise AG
Tel: +49 5531 90 0
Email: info@symrise.com
Website: www.symrise.com
Neo Heliopan BMT
INCI: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
Applications: Sunscreen products
Use levels: Approved UV filter up to 10% in Europe, Switzerland, Australia, Mexico, Mercosur, ASEAN states, China, Taiwan and South Korea. Not approved in USA and Canada.
Univar
Tel: 855-888-8648
Email: PersonalCare@univar.com
Website: www.Univar.com
Avobenzone UPS
INCI: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Applications: Sun care, skin care and color cosmetics
Comments: Sunscreen active that protects against UVA damage. Can be combined with UVB actives to provide broad spectrum protection.
Octocrylene USP
INCI: Octocrylene
Applications: Sun care, skin care and color cosmetics
Comments: Sunscreen active that protects against UVB damage. Can be combined with UVA actives to provide broad spectrum protection.
Homosalate USP
INCI: Ethylhexyl salicylate
Applications: Sun care, skin care and color cosmetics
Comments: Sunscreen active that protects against UVB damage. Can be combined with UVA actives to provide broad spectrum protection.•
Marketers and their raw material suppliers insist that they’ve done a good job creating effective products. Now, they just have to get consumers to use them, and use them more often. One way to do that is to create aesthetically-pleasing product forms.
With its Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic brands, Edgewell Personal Care is the leading player in the US sun care market. For Summer 2017, Banana Boat is adding Dry Balance in sunscreen lotion and Clear Ultramist. According to Tracy Garbowski, senior brand manager, Banana Boat, Dry Balance draws away excess moisture and dry with a soft matte finish to help you feel balanced and fresh. Its lightweight, non-greasy formula allows skin to breathe while providing safe and effective broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Dry Balance is available in SPF 30 and 50+ in lotion and Clear UltraMist formats.
“To allow the Dry Balance sunscreens to be breathable and smooth, we have added silicone to the lotion,” explained Garbowski. “Silicone has a high absorption for moisture and sebum, which eliminates oil to give skin a drier after-feel once applied. We’ve also added emollients to the Clear UltraMist which enables the sunscreen to dry quickly while leaving very little residue on the skin, resulting in a non-greasy and non-oily feel.”
The Dry Balance portfolio also has a new scent that is a blend of citrus, floral and vanilla.
The Kids Sunscreen portfolio has been expanded with an SPF 50+ PowerStay Technology that provides heavy duty protection that stays on during activities. Both products are formulated to stay on in seven conditions—sun, pool water, ocean water, wind, sweat, sand and even 100 degree heat, according to Edgewell.
The Hawaiian Tropic franchise is extending its Silk Hydration Weightless and Island Sport portfolios. Silk Hydration Weightless C-Spray and Silk Hydration Weightless Face Lotion Sunscreen SPF 30 are the latest innovations in the Silk Hydration Weightless Portfolio. Both new Silk Hydration formulas feature the line’s signature hydrating ribbons for up to 12-hours of skin moisturization in the breathable formula while providing broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection.
“The facial sunscreen innovation from Hawaiian Tropic has an ultra-luxurious feel and light tropical scent that pampers skin without clogging pores, leaving skin feeling soft, moisturized and indulgent,” said Garbowski. “The extension of the Silk Hydration Weightless line to include a clear spray sunscreen makes for an easy application that leaves you feeling hydrated and pampered like no other sunscreen can.”
Hawaiian Tropic is also adding an SPF 50 to the lotion and Clear Spray formulations within its Island Sport portfolio. Providing high performance protection, Island Sport sunscreen features a fast-absorbing and sweat-resistant formula that is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes. It also moisturizes skin, has a light tropical scent and is ultra-lightweight.
Whip It Good
Bayer, too, is focused on aesthetics, rolling out a whipped Coppertone formula that took years of work at its Solar Research Center, explained Lisa Perez, marketing director, sun care.
“Whipped is truly an innovative product form,” she told Happi. “We wanted protection in a rich, creamy foam that goes on quickly. It absorbs nicely, feels really soft and smooth, and because consumers can see it, they are confident that they are getting proper coverage.”
Coppertone Whipped is available in both the ClearlySheer and Water Babies lines. Company executives say the new format will transform the experience of applying sunscreen from a mandatory task to something consumers can look forward to doing before they head outdoors. But just to be sure they try it, Coppertone is doing some heavy promotion ahead of the season.
“Coppertone does a lot of national advertising,” noted Perez. “We are getting behind the whipped format in a big way. We are looking into more trial and demo to get it into consumers’ hands to surprise and delight them.”
Cautious moms may want to give WaterBabies Pure & Simple Free sunscreen a squirt. The formula still provides broad-spectrum protection, but it’s free of fragrance, parabens, PABA and dyes. According to Perez, there’s a consumer group that’s perfectly happy to apply a chemical, rather than a physical, sunblock on their kids, but they’re looking to avoid certain ingredients.
To get the word out on its WaterBabies offerings, Coppertone is putting an emphasis on digital advertising.
“It’s a nice shift from print,” she explained. “We are getting into more social media to have two-way engagement and be where moms are.”
For those who prefer the simplicity of a stick format, there’s Coppertone Sport Stick and WaterBabies Pure & Simple Stick. The bigger, angled stick makes it easier to apply, too. For the 2017 season, Coppertone Sport entered Costco for the first time.
“Last year was a good year for the category, which got some late summer help,” recalled Perez. “This year, we think Coppertone will be in the forefront to drive category growth. We’re very excited about our innovative products and marketing plans that will reach consumers in new and different ways.”
The Bayer launches come at a time when the US sun care market is posting good gains. US sales rose nearly 5% to more than $1.2 billion last year, according to IRI (see charts, p. 70). Among the major players, Neutrogena has made the biggest move during the past year as sales rose more than 9%.
“Two-thousand sixteen was a blockbuster year for Neutrogena sun care. We significantly outpaced the category contributing to overall growth and officially became No. 1 best-selling sun care brand in the US this year,” said Sebastian Garcia-Vinyard, group brand director, Johnson & Johnson Consumer business.
Leading the charge was Ultra Sheer, which posted a 10.42% increase in sales and Cool Dry Sport, which had a 45% increase. According to Garcia-Vinyard, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer is a favorite, hero platform that embodies what Neutrogena sun stands for: best-in-class aesthetics and feel, with superior, powerful UVA/ UVB protection.
“One of the biggest barriers to consumer sunscreen usage is the feel when sunscreen is applied. However, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer is powered by our Dry-Touch Technology that absorbs extra sunscreen oils and leaves skin feeling light—never shiny or greasy. It’s powerful sun protection that consumers love to wear,” he explained.
Garcia-Vinyard credited Cool Dry Sport’s gain to the launch of an SPF 50 stick and SPF 50 lotion. Meanwhile Beach Defense sales grew 11%, too. He called it a family favorite since it delivers broad spectrum protection and is available in stick, lotion and spray formats.
Now that it’s out in front, Neutrogena is putting the pedal to the metal with the introduction of Neutrogena Sheer Zinc sunscreens, which are available in SPF 30 and 50 formats, and a specially formulated face variant that contains antioxidants and layers invisibly under makeup.
According to the company, the Neutrogena Sheer Zinc Dry-Touch formula contains a 100% mineral sunscreen and provides 2x better UVA protection than leading mineral sunscreens that contain only mineral active ingredients. Neutrogena says the formula is “clinically shown to be as gentle as water,” which may explain, in part, why it was awarded the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance.
Educators Needed
Garcia-Vinyard noted that skin cancer is at epidemic levels in the US, and sunscreen compliance continues to be very low. Last year, Neutrogena embraced behavioral science to find out what motivates its consumers to practice healthy sun protection habits.
“We launched the Mimic Mommy campaign, a year-long initiative to educate moms on the importance of practicing safe sun behaviors daily on themselves and their families, with the goal of raising the first sun safe generation,” he recalled. “This campaign led to behavior changes in mom, as well as an awareness in our best-in-class sun products.”
This year other sun care marketers are trying to move the needle, too. While its competitors roll out new products, executives at Solskyn, the maker of No-Ad, Bullfrog and Ocean Potion, are rolling up their sleeves and are determined to teach consumers just how important it is to be protected from the sun’s damaging UV rays.
“There is a growing awareness of skin cancer that is driving the market, but we have to educate consumers about how to use sunscreen, when and how much,” said Krisztina Toth, brand manager, Solskyn. “We want to focus on education this year; we believe that the brands and the media should do a better job of teaching proper UV protection.”
If anyone still needs proof that men and women still need to be educated about sun care habits, a recent Solskyn survey reveals plenty of blank spots in consumers’ knowledge about safe sun. Researchers found that less than half of moms (48%) knew the correct amount of sunscreen to apply to the face and body and 20% didn’t know that sunscreen must be reapplied after extended exposure. Perhaps more shocking is that more than 50% said the proper time to apply sunscreen is as soon as they feel their skin starting to burn.
When it comes to sun care, father knows less—or at least men in general aren’t up to speed on UV protection. According to a Solskyn survey of men, 20% don’t use any sunscreen at all. Among the 80% that do, the majority only apply it occasionally. Their lack of knowledge can be deadly as men are more likely to get skin cancer and die from melanoma, according to Toth.
“From our surveys (conducted in December 2016), we’ve learned how important it is to educate consumers to apply and reapply sun protection products every two hours, after towel drying, after swimming and after sweating,” said Toth.
After polling consumers and speaking with retail partners, Solskyn made the decision to stand pat with its product lineup.
“Retailers told us that the category is too confusing,” explained Toth. “There is an opportunity here to be more clear about the products that we bring to market.”
All three brands are growing, according to Toth. Now Solskyn is determined to bring value, and not just me-too products, to the market.
To get consumers to properly reapply, JADS International has developed SunBurn Alert UV wristbands and body stickers. The patented color-changing technology detects UVA and UVB rays. The waterproof designs work for one day.
A Changing Demographic
But not everyone agrees that every consumer is confused about sun care. J&J’s Garcia-Vinyard said there are three key areas where consumers’ attitude about sun care have changed.
“First, we saw growth in every day protection and selecting protection with higher SPFs as consumers are becoming savvier about their skin health and the dangers that sun exposure can cause,” he said. “Second, our consumers are more educated on the link between premature aging and sun exposure, so they are increasingly looking to sun protection as a way to prevent premature skin aging caused by sun exposure. We see more and more are moving from a singular focus on correction to preventative care.”
Finally, Garcia-Vinyard said many sun care consumers are increasing their sunscreen usage due to the vast variety of elegant sun care formulas that are available today.
“Sunscreen with skin care ingredients and natural/mineral-based sunscreens segments have grown considerably,” he told Happi.
According to Garbowski, recent surveys regarding the 2017 US travel forecast predict there will be a reduced demand in vacations.
“However, additional research in this area is ongoing and we are confident that Banana Boat products will be used domestically as well as abroad despite the vacation plans of consumers,” she told Happi.
Apart from weather, Edgewell executives have noticed that across the health, beauty and accessories market, there are changes in the demographics of the typical customer.
“The US population is aging and becoming more multi-cultural leading to an increased focus by customers and the industry on products that provide short and long term wellness benefits and that account for different skin types, respectively,” Garbowski explained. “There is also a growth in lower income households leading consumers to look for cost-effective products and resources. All of these present unique challenges and opportunities for the sun care industry each season.”
AAK
Tel: 973-741-5009
Email: john.okeefe@aak.com
Website: www.aakpersonalcare.com
Lipex SheaLight
INCI: Shea butter ethyl esters
Applications: Solubilizer, sensorial and performance enhancer, sustainability
Use levels: 1-25%
Comments: Eco-designed and sustainable. Produced using low energy processes from shea butter and ethanol from agricultural sources. Low viscosity, high polarity with silky, non-oily afterfeel. Good solubilizer of solid organic UV filters and excellent dispersant for inorganic UV filters. Lipex SheaLight does not break down on UV exposure and is not phototoxic.
Lipex PreAct
INCI: Canola oil
Applications: Photoprotection and reduced skin irritation, sustainability
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Lipex PreAct protects skin proteins and lipids against photo-oxidation, delivering functionality to reduce skin damage and environmental stress induced by UV exposure. It is highly suitable for use in sun-care and other formulations for outdoor use and products for sensitive and irritated skin due to its calming and soothing properties.
Lipex SheaTris
INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter extract
Applications: Anti-inflammatory, protection against environmental stress, sustainability
Use levels: 0.3-.0.5%
Comments: Lipex Shea Tris is a bioactive ingredient with 50-65% concentrate of triterpene esters. Lipex Shea Tris revitalizes the skin showing skin restoring, soothing and protecting properties. Lipex Shea Tris protects skin collagen structures and is shown to reduce inflammation markers such as TNF-a and PGE-2 after an exposure of 4 MED UVA+UVB.
Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Tel: 877-507-9303
Email: SPC_CSRNC@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajiaminobeauty.com
Eldew SL-205
INCI: Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate
Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup and hair care products
Use levels: 1-25 wt%
Comments: Eldew SL-205 is an amino acid-derived, highly polar emollient. It has the ability to readily dissolve poorly soluble materials such as organic UV filters and active ingredients, which gives formulators greater flexibility in developing new products. It also has a non-greasy and non-sticky dry oil like sensory feel.
Eldew PS-203R
INCI: Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup and hair care products
Use levels: 0.5-10 wt%
Comments: Eldew PS-203R is an amino acid-derived emollient. It has type III ceramide-like properties. It is very effective for the recovery of damaged skin caused by sunburns. It has excellent ability of dispersing inorganic UV filters and pigments. It has excellent water-holding capacity and high moisture permeability.
AJK-OD2046
INCI: Octyl dodecanol, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide
Applications: Sun care, skin care, makeup products
Use levels: 1-30 wt%
Comments: AJK-OD2046 is a premix of Ajinomoto’s oil gelling agents GP-1 and EB-21 with Octyldodecanol. It can form clear sunscreen sticks, clear sunscreen lip products and sunscreen emulsions without impacting the sensory feel of the solvents. It provides hardness, viscosity and stability to the products even at high temperatures.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Evening Primrose Oil
INCI: Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil
Applications: After sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: A rich source of GLA, which is especially effective on dry skin. Evening Primrose Oil rejuvenate dry skin and help reduce inflammation. It can be used in a skin lotion, cream or moisturizer for after sun exposure.
Hemp Seed Oil
INCI: Cannabis savita (hemp) seed oil
Applications: Sunblock and sunscreens
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Hemp Seed Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. It is easily absorbed by the skin to provide essential fatty acids and other nutrients. It blocks UV rays and is ideal as a sunscreen agent.
Olive Oil
INCI: Olea europaea (olive) oil
Applications: After sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: A mild oil, rich in oleic acid, which is easily absorbed into the skin. Olive oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in a skin lotion, cream or moisturizer for after sun exposure.
Centerchem, Inc.
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Lingostem
INCI: Water, glycerin, vaccinium vitis-idaea fruit extract, citric acid, xanthan gum
Use levels: 1.0-2.0%
Applications: Anti-aging skin products, sun protection products
Comments: Lingostem is a natural cosmetic active ingredient based on plant stem cells obtained from Lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea). Lingostem is part of the Provital Stem Cells Collection product line, in which a controlled cell culture is developed from stem cells to achieve the synthesis of those natural compounds offering the required cosmetic properties. Lingostem is lingonberry stem cells designed to prevent and reverse photoaging, mimicking one of nature’s solutions to fight damaging effects of solar radiation in plants. Lingostem is able to repair and protect skin against the oxidative damage caused by solar radiations such as UV and IR-A, improving skin’s antioxidant activity, reducing wrinkles and spots, and improving moisturization, firmness and elasticity. The result is skin with a young and healthy appearance, which is more resilient against sun damage.
Neossance Hemisqualane
INCI: C13-15 alkane
Use levels: 5.0-50.0%
Applications: Sun care and skin care products
Comments: Neossance Hemisqualane is a natural alternative to petroleum-based parafiins and silicone ingredients. It is an emollient with a great sensory profile. Hemisqualane provides numerous benefits including high spreadability for a smooth, easy application, resulting in a non-greasy feel. Hemisqualane helps to solubilize UV filters while leaving imparting a silky, light feel.
Croda Inc.
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: Marketing-USA@Croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
Solaveil XTP-1
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) stearic acid (and) alumina
Applications: Color cosmetics, sun care, skin care
Use levels: 2-25%
Comments: Combining exceptional UVA protection with high UVB efficacy, this innovative titanium dioxide (TiO2) powder provides a straightforward method of making globally approved formulations, including color cosmetic powders, that offer high SPF, broad spectrum UV protection.
Crodarom
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-USA@croda.com
Website: www.crodarom.com
Phytessence Peach Flower
INCI: Glycerin, water, prunus persica (peach) flower extract
Applications: Skin care (creams, gels, lotions, gels, cleansers), foundations, masks, scalp care products, baby care, body care
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Comments: Phytessence Peach Flower protects the skin from pollution damage and de-asphyxiates the cells. By contributing to the diminution of epidermal oxidation, it fights against signs of skin aging and maintains cellular youth. It also lessens the accumulation of lipofusion, for a tone as rosy and fresh as the peach blossom.
Evonik
Tel: 804-727-0778
Website: personal-care.evonik.com
Tego Cosmo C 100
INCI: Creatine
Applications: Skin care, sun care
Use levels: 0.1-1.4%
Comments: Topical application of Creatine on UV damaged skin increases the availability of ATP by increasing the cellular energy reserve and provides energy necessary for the cells to synthesize key proteins such as collagen and elastin. Creatine provides protection and repair against premature aging and UV induced stress.
Koster Keunen Inc.
Tel: 860-945-3333
Email: puleo@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.kosterkeunen.com
Enhans SB-63
INCI: Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Enhans SB-63 was designed to increase SPF, improve the skin feel and elegance of the sunscreen product while maintaining lotion consistency. In-vivo research has shown that this modified natural wax will boost SPF of sunscreens made with organic filters through film-forming and film-thickening properties. Formulations and prototypes are available.
Enhans PC-38
INCI: Polyethylene, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, stearoxy dimethicone
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Enhans PC-38 is a blend of compounds designed to enhance SPF, improve formula elegance, not build emulsion viscosity and increase water resistance. Formulations and prototypes are available.
Enhans SY-62
INCI: Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelilla
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Enhans SY-62 was designed to improve SPF while maintaining formula elegance and will build viscosity in a formula. Our in-vivo research has shown that this modified natural wax will boost SPF of sunscreens made with organic filters and will improve thermal stability of formulations due to the high melting point of this wax. Formulations and prototypes are available.
Innospec
Tel: 704-633-8028
Email: Americas-pc@innospecinc.com
Website: www.innospecinc.com
Dispersun TN-50
INCI: C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) stearic acid
Applications: Good for use in sunscreen lotions, sprays, and daily wear SPF-containing cosmetics.
Comments: Dispersun TN-50 is a titanium dioxide in ester-oil dispersion used in sun care and cosmetic applications. It is easy to formulate with and a highly effective dispersed mixture for inorganic sunscreen filters. It can also be used to boost SPF when combined with organic sunscreen filters. Certified to contain no nanoparticles.
Dispersun ZS-73
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 dimethicone (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Good for use in sunscreen lotions, sprays, and daily wear SPF-containing cosmetics. Dispersun ZS-73 is a zinc dioxide in ester-oil dispersion used in suncare and cosmetic applications. It is easy to formulate with and a highly effective dispersed mixture for inorganic sunscreen filters. It can also be used to boost SPF when combined with organic sunscreen filters. Certified to contain no nanoparticles.
Use levels: 10-30%
Comments: Dispersun ZS-73 contains highly concentrated ZnO but leaves nice skin-feel, is fast drying with a matte appearance on skin. Compatible with silicone and ester-oils and suitable for water-in-oil emulsions. Provides the highest levels of UVA and UVB blocking. Helps increase SPF of sunscreens, excellent UV-cutting performance in the UVA range.
K-80
INCI: Dimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate
Applications: Clear flexible films for color cosmetics: mascaras, lip care, nail care and foundations, sun care and skin care: where long lasting wear is required
Comments: K-80 is a combination of a high active level of trimethylsiloxysilicate resin in a specialty dimethicone carrier that provides clear flexible films. Films produced by K-80 don’t flake or crack like typical trimethylsiloxysilicate blends. K-80 has improved feel and comfort of wear while maintaining water-, wash-off and sebum-resistance properties.
Jeen International
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2
INCI: PEG-150 distearate, cetearyl alcohol, polyquaternium-37
Applications: skin care, hair care, sun care
Use levels: 0.5-10%
Comments: A patented cationic emulsifier in a simple-to-use, free-flowing powder. This unique emulsifier base can transform simple formulations into elegant sophisticated emulsions mimicking the aesthetics of luxurious ingredients without the need or expense of adding sensorial boosting ingredients. Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 will impart a silky powdery finish even with extremely high oil loads making it an ideal ingredient for sun care formulations.
Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50
Description: Zinc oxide in olive oil
Applications: Sun care and sunscreens (organic and inorganic), after-sun treatment emulsions, baby care products.
Use levels: 0% to 50% (check region specific limits)
Comments: This all natural ingredient is a stable high solids (50%) dispersion of micro-fine zinc oxide in olive oil, Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50 is manufactured using advanced proprietary technology to maintain a consistent narrow particle size distribution (PSD) without agglomeration or the need to pre-treat the product. The controlled PSD minimizes and greatly diminishes the negative “whitening” effects typically associated with using zinc oxide. This easy to use dispersion blends in quickly contributing to production efficiencies and highest SPF value in finished products without agglomeration and an extensive manufacturing process.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Tel: 800-379-5389, 216-447-5000
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Avalure Flex-6 polymer
INCI: Polyurethane-62 and trideceth-6
Application: Skin, sun care, color cosmetics
Use levels: 0.8-1.5%
Comments: Allows you to create and stabilize water, sand and rub-off resistant sunscreens with a light, powdery afterfeel and uniform distribution on skin. With its wide UV filters and pigment compatibility properties, Avalure Flex-6 is perfect for use in a variety of sun care and daily skin care emulsions.
Morre-Tec Industries
Tel: 908-688-9009
Email: Sales@morretec.com
Website: www.morretec.com
Apalight
INCI: Hydroxyapatite
Applications: Natural patented sun filter booster
Use levels: up to 7.5%
Comments: Apalight, a natural, patented sun filters booster, it is a biofunctional, inorganic ingredient that is dermocompatible, and safe. It provides high photoprotective performance, anti-age and antioxidant effect. In addition to its soft-focus properties, Apalight has been clinically proven to visibly reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity and fight free radicals.
Vitamin D3
INCI: Cholecalciferol
Applications: Water soluble skin vitamin D enrichment
Use levels: Depends on the concentration and use level of those concentrations
Comments: Water soluble vitamin D. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that has antioxidant-skin-soothing benefits. Water-soluble version is easy to formulate with as a skin conditioner and moisturizer. SPF products, which limit the body’s UVB exposure-its vitamin D3 production is enriched with this ingredient along with anti-aging, facial and lip care products.
Penreco
Tel: 724-756-0110
Email: penreco@clmt.com
Website: www.penreco.com
Versagel SQ Gelled Squalane
INCI: Squalane (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Applications: Versagel SQ helps to facilitate an even distribution of the active sunscreen ingredients.
Use levels: n/a
Comments: Versagel SQ is a great additive or substitute in both oil-based formulas and emulsions. Versagel SQ is a gelled squalane product, which is naturally present in the skin lipid barrier and is an ingredient known for its exceptional moisturizing abilities and its ability to penetrate the skin to deliver benefits. Like jojoba, it closely mimics the body’s natural moisturizers and is absorbed quickly and effectively, without leaving greasy residue on the skin. Squalane is a non-GMO, plant-derived ingredient and Versagel SQ is a high quality replacement for shark and olive squalene. It is derived from plant sugar, is Ecocert-approved, and is readily biodegradable as well.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Tel: 908-757-4500
Email: cosmeticsales@sensient.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com
UVR TiO2 AS
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: sun care and sun filter
Use levels: up to 25%
Comments: UVR TiO2 AS is a new grade of high performance coated rutile TiO2 designed to meet changing global regulations. The alkyl silane coating of this ultrafine grade improves hydrophobicity and increases the dispersibility in oils and silicones while enhancing the wear resistance.
Seppic
Tel: 973-882-5597
Email: us.seppic@airliquide.com
Website: www.seppic.com
DUB Helioptima
INCI: Diisopropyl adipate and disopropyl sebacate and propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicraprate and C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Applications: Suncare, SPF boosting, light skins feel
Use levels: 5-10%
Comments: DUB Helioptima is an ester well suited for UV protection. It helps solubilization of sunscreens (both minerals & chemicals), increases SPF & imparts a unique sensory skin feel even with a high SPF. Its versatile properties minimize the processing steps & costs by acting as a solubilizer & SPF booster.
Emogreen L19
INCI: C15-19 alkane
Applications: Sun care, sunscreen spreading, soft finish
Use levels: 0.5-50%
Comments: Consumers usually dislike the “oily” and “sticky” skin feeling of high SPF formulas, discouraging multiple applications. Emogreen L19, new vegetable emollient, will transform the application into a delightful experience by improving the sunscreen spreading & leaving a weightless and soft finish, encouraging the consumers to apply more products, for an effective protection.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com
KF-6106
INCI: Polyglyeryl-3 poludimethylsiloxyetheyl dimethicone
Use levels: Dispersant, 10-30% based on dry powder weight; emulsifier, 2-10%
Applications: Sun care (creams, lotions, self-tanners, shake type sunscreen); color cosmetics (foundations and powders, shake type liquid foundations); lipsticks, skin care products
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone offers a line of polyglycerin modified silicone emulsifiers with different structures and functions. KF-6106 is the newest addition that also has outstanding capability to disperse powders. KF-6106 is multi-functional in that it acts as a wetting agent as well as a dispersant. It’s particularly useful to disperse superfine TiO2. Thanks to the branched siloxane group TiO2 dispersion made with KF-6106 shows stable low viscosity over time with excellent skin feel and transparency. It’s a versatile dispersant in that stable dispersions with high TiO2 loadings can be made with silicones or esters. KF-6106 is also effective to disperse Superfine ZnO. As an emulsifier, sunscreens made with KF-6106 show minimal “gel” formulation, which is the phenomenon responsible for the “sticky” feel in humid conditions. The polyglycerin grafting group is plant derived. Ambient processing is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
KP-578
INCI: Acrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer
Use level: 10-30% based on dry powder
Applications: Sun care products (creams, lotions, self-tanners, shake-type sunscreen), color cosmetics (foundations and powders), Shake type liquid foundations, lipsticks
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone offers an extensive line of siliconized acrylate film formers with different structures and functions. KP-578 is unique in that there are also hydrophilic grafting groups on the acrylate backbone that provides enhanced adhesion properties to powders. It’s particularly useful to disperse and stablbize superfine TiO2 powders.The silicone groups are responsible for the dispersion stability, low viscosity, transparency and good skin feel.
KF-6048
INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG 14/1 dimethicone
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care (lotions, creams, self-tanners), cosmetics (foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers), hair styling products (cuticle coats, gels, emulsions)
Comments: KF-6048 is a high quality, high purity multi-functional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. It is particularly useful in stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens without the heavy greasy feel. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
Symrise AG
Tel: +49 5531 90 0
Email: info@symrise.com
Website: www.symrise.com
Neo Heliopan BMT
INCI: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
Applications: Sunscreen products
Use levels: Approved UV filter up to 10% in Europe, Switzerland, Australia, Mexico, Mercosur, ASEAN states, China, Taiwan and South Korea. Not approved in USA and Canada.
Univar
Tel: 855-888-8648
Email: PersonalCare@univar.com
Website: www.Univar.com
Avobenzone UPS
INCI: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Applications: Sun care, skin care and color cosmetics
Comments: Sunscreen active that protects against UVA damage. Can be combined with UVB actives to provide broad spectrum protection.
Octocrylene USP
INCI: Octocrylene
Applications: Sun care, skin care and color cosmetics
Comments: Sunscreen active that protects against UVB damage. Can be combined with UVA actives to provide broad spectrum protection.
Homosalate USP
INCI: Ethylhexyl salicylate
Applications: Sun care, skin care and color cosmetics
Comments: Sunscreen active that protects against UVB damage. Can be combined with UVA actives to provide broad spectrum protection.•
