Christine Esposito, Associate Editor05.01.18
We live in a 24/7/365 world—and our skin gets battered for it. Between UV, pollution, blue light from smartphones and tablets, and lack of sleep (probably due to those devices!), skin is under attack from free radicals nearly all the time, say dermatologists and skin care experts. As such, consumers rely on everything from basic moisturizers to masks to serums to fend off the signs of aging that are exacerbated by modern lifestyles.
The fixation on healthy skin has been a boon for marketers, as sales in both the mass and luxury sectors of the market have been rising during the past year. In the 12 months ending February 2018, US prestige skin care market sales hit $5.8 billion, up 13% versus the prior year, according to The NPD Group.
“While masks and alternative skin care products like essences, face mists and boosters are experiencing strong growth, skin care’s rising sales could also be attributed to the more basic categories such as facial moisturizers, which had been declining in prior years,” said Larissa Jensen, beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group. “What is most interesting about the turnaround in moisturizer sales is that existing products are the main contributor to the increase in sales. Consumers are looking toward perennial favorites and products they know work for them in the more classic categories, like moisturizer, that they forge an emotional connection with.”
Mass is showing similar traits. IRI reported that sales in US multi-outlets rose 5.3% to $3.77 billion for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 25, 2018. Digging into the data, it appears there are similar shifts in what consumers are purchasing in these outlets, too. For example, while mass market facial anti-aging sales dropped 2.21%, facial moisturizer sales rose 10.14% and facial cleansers posted a 14.28% gain.
Research Drives NPD
While there’s a shift in spending toward the basics (think moisturizers and cleansers), research and development in the skin care space is anything but basic. Teams across the globe are digging deeper into myriad factors that impact skin health and coming up with insights that could very well drive future product development.
In March, for example, Amorepacific reported in Science Advances that the higher incidence of skin diseases in more urbanized populations is due to differences in skin microbiomes.
While many city residents suffer from skin disorders including atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and hives, the correlation between the degree of urbanization and skin disease had not been previously revealed. Together with Chung-Ang University College of Biotechnology and Natural Resource, the Amorepacific R&D Center analyzed skin microbiomes of 231 Chinese women.
The research was constructed to test the hypothesis: “the reason urban residents have more skin disorders compared to those who do not, is due to the ecology of skin microbiomes.”
The collaborative effort between Amorepacific R&D Center, Amorepacific Shanghai R&I Center and the research team from Chung-Ang University’s Department of Systems Biotechnology tested the skin microbiomes of women residing in five cities with a population of more than one million: Beijing, Guangzhou, Kunming, Xi’an and Hohhot. It was found that colonies of microbiomes were more concentrated in more urbanized cities (Beijing and Guangzhou) than those in the less urbanized cities (Kunming, Xi’an and Hohhot).
According to Amorepacific, the main criteria in measuring urbanization—population, population density and air quality—had a significant impact on the ecological constitution of skin microbiomes. The discovery explains the higher frequency of skin diseases in city residents compared to non-city residents is caused by the difference in the ecological structure of skin microbiomes.
“Finding the correlation between urbanization and skin microbiomes is special as it serves as a basis to the development of solutions for skin problems that modern city residents experience,” said Han Sang-hoon, head of Amorepacific R&D Center, in a statement.
Active research into the characteristics of skin, scalp and hair conditions plays an important role in the development of the company’s new products. Amorepacific has been studying skin characteristics of Koreans and Chinese people since 1999, according to Hanbyul Kim, safety and microbiology lab, Amorepacific R&D.
“We have tried to develop products that cater to different skin characteristics according to region and age and have different skin characteristics. We have continuously expanded our research area from skin to scalp, hair and so on in various regions…then we became interested in the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin diseases,” Kim told Happi about the genesis of this latest finding.
“Skin microbes maintain a stable network and control the homeostasis of the skin. In mega-cities, this network is unstable and is more likely to be exposed to skin disease. Therefore, we may try to develop the technology and products for mega-city citizens to increase the network stability of these microorganisms,” Kim said.
The microbiome and skin health is garnering attention, and even investment dollars, among the biggest names in the business.
Unilever Ventures, for example, was the lead investor in a recently closed financing round for Gallinée Ltd. The investment marked Unilever Ventures’ foray into microbiome-based products.
Launched in 2016 by Marie Drago, a French pharmacist with 15 years of experience working for successful skin care brands, Gallinée was inspired by her own autoimmune diseases and a desire to create products that support the skin’s good bacteria.
Drago told Happi that consumers grasp the over-arching concept behind her line.
“It is changing so fast, it’s amazing. Two years ago when we launched, we had to explain a lot about pro and prebiotics, but now the consumer is very aware of it, even for the skin,” she said. “The sentence I hear the most is ‘It makes so much sense,’ and I love hearing that!”
“We have been impressed by Gallinée’s level of innovation and consistency. It is rare to find such young brands with the right mix of science and consumer focus. I look forward to working with Marie and her team to build upon the company’s momentum and many growth opportunities,” Anna Ohlsson-Baskerville, director with Unilever Ventures, said in a statement.
“For a young company like Gallinée, this is an amazing opportunity. We are not even two years old,” Drago told Happi. “We loved the ethics and the transparency of Unilever, and thanks to their investment, we are developing new products and are planning for international expansion. I also think it is great to see the big players starting to make moves in the microbiome space.”
The funding from Unilever Ventures, and other strategic partners in the round, will be used to develop the Gallinée team, extend the range and finance R&D.
Consumer Appeal
As companies explore issues such as pollution and microbiome, formulating skin care products that appeal to a wide swath of consumers remains an NPD driver, especially at leading mass market brands. At P&G, for example, the R&D team zeroed in on texture to develop new “Whips” that can be found across the key Olay collections including Regenerist, Luminous and Total Effects. The creation of this new format, which began rolling out in late Q4 2017, stemmed from consumer research into what prevents women from using a moisturizer or skin treatment even when they know better. According to Dr. Frauke Neuser, principal scientist, Olay skin care, skin feel is often the main culprit.
While the Olay franchise already enjoys a loyal following, P&G wanted to bring others into the fold, such as those who may not like heavier feel products.
“We are very close to our consumers. We want to understand what our consumers are looking for,” Neuser said, noting that the brand has been able to gather key data from its Olay Skin Advisor platform which has had approximately 4 million site visits to date.
To develop the new Whips, the Olay R&D team targeted the polymers.
“There’s only so much you can do in a classic emulsion,” Neuser said. “We looked at a delivery system that would overcome the film forming sensation. That’s where we looked at different polymers.”
The Whip formulations feature a starch-based polymer but the “same active packages” as that of their sister products, explained Neuser, who noted that the brand is keeping close tabs on how consumers react to these new formats as summer approaches. The new, lighter Olay Whip format also boasts UV protection, which could aid in compliance among women who may have shied away from heavy products with much-needed sun protection.
Unilever, too, has addressed skin feel with its Dove DermaSeries, which is billed as a completely hypoallergenic and fragrance-free range of products focused on three factors—use of only the mildest skin cleansers, focus on replenishment of skin-natural lipids, and luxurious textures. Moisturizers help seal skin’s moisture, as well as activate PPARs (a protein found in skin) to replenish skin lipids and improve the quality of skin’s outermost layer, according to the brand.
Market leader Neutrogena also recognizes its role as an innovator in mass.
Neutrogena believes that everyone should have access to efficacious and high-quality skin care solutions, noted Amrika Ganness, facial moisture treatment leader at Neutrogena. “When creating new products, we always look to bring new innovations, ingredients and forms to a mass audience. For example, we were the first to introduce stabilized retinol in a jar to the masses with the launch of Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream. With this launch, Neutrogena scientists discovered how to maintain retinol integrity in a breakthrough form—a super-emollient cream with a rich, melting texture, packaged in a jar container.”
According to Anne-Sophie Brillouet, Neutrogena R&D franchise leader, it’s a deep understanding of consumers and their skin care needs and needs that leads Neutrogena to introduce new skin care products—including its new “fragrance free” Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream.
“We are constantly investing in education, technology and innovation, to provide consumers with the best products and tools to enable them to live beautifully, especially when it comes to the efficacy and stability of our leading anti-wrinkle technology—retinol. Our delivery and patented system offers the ultimate balance of efficacy, sustained stability and mitigated irritation—three critical factors that we do not compromise on. We continue to invest on future forms relevant for our consumer’s anti-wrinkle skin care regimen,” added Brillouet.
Developments at Derm Lines
While mass market aisles offer plenty of choices, the dermatologist’s office remains another key outlet for consumers seeking help with their skin.
Recently, Obagi’s R&D team was tasked with developing a new line that would expand the company’s reach. Their efforts resulted in SuzanObagiMD, a new range of rejuvenating products specifically designed for two patient categories: those who adhere to a lifestyle that favors more natural alternatives and wish to avoid certain ingredients, yet still won’t entrust their skin to anyone other than a medical brand; and those with skin too sensitive to take the full Obagi Medical regimen, according to Laurence Dryer, PhD, VP of R&D.
“Such patients traditionally have no recourse other than much weaker solutions from drugstores, thus losing an opportunity to receive true Medical assistance for their skin concerns,” Dryer said.
The SuzanObagiMD formulas are ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin; they treat a wide range of skin concerns and types, including the appearance of photoaging, rough or lackluster skin, and delicate or sensitive skin. The line includes Foaming Cleanser, Balancing Toner, Acne Cleansing Wipes, Cleansing Wipes, Soothing Complex Broad Spectrum SPF 25, Intensive Daily Repair (IDR), and Retivance Skin Rejuvenating Complex.
According to Dryer, Retivance is “without a doubt the most innovative product” in the new line. “The product features Retinaldehyde, a seldom-used retinoid with all the efficacy without the side effects often encountered by sensitive patients. The retinaldehyde molecule lies closer to retinoic acid than other compounds on the retinoid biosynthesis pathway and thus is thought to provide rejuvenating efficacy without inducing as much irritation. The product was also engineered in an unusual chassis designed to stabilize its core compound as well as provide great aesthetic feel.”
Dryer also called attention to the line’s core technology, a specific antioxidant blend that “marries the free-radical fighting power of sulforaphane from Brassica oleracea, to the antioxidant activity of citrus bioflavonoids, and the soothing effect of aloe. This new cocktail packs a punch and aims to rejuvenate skin by scavenging free radicals that may inflict damages,” she said.
Another popular derm-dispensed brand, Colorescience, says it has found instant success with its new Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35, which rolled out in February and promises both immediate and long-term improvement.
Formulated to hydrate and improve skin health of the entire eye area, Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35 is clinically proven to immediately brighten dark circles and imperfections, while improving the overall appearance of dark circles, puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles when used twice daily for just four weeks—all while using a 100% mineral SPF 35 that protects against UVA/UVB rays and environmental stressors that contribute to early skin aging. It also works as a primer to allow for a smoother application of concealer and eye makeup, and can also be applied throughout the day as a midday refresher.
In a multi-center study, Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35 was administered by physicians to 90 patients following a variety of in-office procedures and consultations at 17 centers. After four weeks, 95% of participants reported immediate improvements in one or more eye concerns with 95% claiming their eyes look more rested and youthful and 94% stating that they felt more confident overall.
The formulation is fueled by five key ingredients; each serves a specific purpose but work synergistically, according to Patricia Boland, VP of product development. The ingredients are: Actineyes, a combination of sea water and marine microalgae that protects skin from impurities while addressing skin laxity and under-eye bags by helping support the health of collagen and increasing firmness of skin; Lucas Meyer’s Aldavine 5X, which is comprised of two polysaccharides that maintain the health of capillaries to minimize puffiness around the eyes and reduce pigmentation that causes dark circles; Phytomoist, which contains plant-based hyaluronic acid and betaine and is four times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid; Sederma’s Beautifeye, which is composed of two plant extracts working synergistically to reduce the volume and depth of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet, and minimize the fold of the upper eyelid for a smoother appearance; and DSM’s Syn-Eye, which delivers a powerful blend of peptides and vitamins shown to address such concerns as under-eye bags, dark circles, fine lines, wrinkles, and puffiness in as little as seven days with visible results.
And, these high-profile ingredients are used at levels where efficacy is guaranteed, according to the company.
“In all Colorescience formulas, we only use specialty ingredients at levels where they have been tested,” insisted Borlind.
According to Jameson Slattery, VP of marketing at Colorescience, this new eye product has already exceeded the company’s own sales expectations and has become a leading product, topping the brand’s well-known Sunforgtteable brush franchise. This level success has prompted the R&D team to build out the Total Eye Collection with new formats, due out in the near future.
Not Growing Old
Even as sales are currently shifting toward basic skin care products, anti-aging remains a focus for product development.
Pur Attitude, Boca Raton, FL, recently rolled out the new PURenergizer Complete Anti-Aging Kit, which uses a waterless natural polymer system and handheld device that “harnesses ultra sonic nanotechnology to transform targeted serums into a potent “nano-vapor” that can penetrate more deeply into the skin.
“Traditional skin care generally lists water as the first or primary ingredient in a formulation. However, water is not the best way to hydrate the skin,” said David Pollock, the chemist behind PURenergizer.
The ultrasonic technology in the device is said to work like a nebulizer. Since the nano-solutions contain phospholipids, when exposed to the physical energy of the infuser, liposomes are created, and the serum is transformed into a quick-absorbing cool vapor, according to the company.
“Years ago, liposomes where considered ‘the answer’ for delivery system challenges in skin care. However, liposomes were not stable in emulsions for long periods of time. We have solved that problem by creating liposomes “fresh” at the time of delivery,” said Pollock, who has developed products for many firms, including Bliss, Smashbox, Lancôme, L’Oréal and SkinCeuticals, to name just a few.
Also targeting anti-aging is Progenitor Biologics, LLC, maker of DefenAge Skincare. DefenAge’s proprietary ingredient is Age-Repair Defensins, an ingredient said to work via a natural mechanism of action with the body’s own stem cells. Published pre-clinical research shows that defensins activate dormant LGR6-positive stem cells, and after activation, they physically migrate into the basal layer of the skin and create a new epidermis, and eventually, new, younger-acting skin.
“Similar to this mechanism are laser and microneeding treatments–they create damage and skin regenerates. Defensins stimulate regeneration without damage. They simply stimulate similar regeneration pathway without entire cascade of skin damages,” said Progenitor Biologic CEO Nikolay Turovets, PhD.
DefenAge is stocked more than 300 US-based aesthetic physicians and medi-spas, but Turovets said he’s ready to push the line further based on the strength of a recent participant- and investigator-blinded, placebo-controlled, multi-center trial.
“The double-blind study of such size and comprehensive design is really unusual for the skin care industry and more commonly used to evaluate the efficacy of drugs rather than skin care products. Most of skin care brands do not do such studies because it’s too risky,” he told Happi.
Sleep It Off
Another big area that is being explored by nearly all with a stake in health and wellness is sleep—or, the lack of it. According to the National Sleep Foundation, only 10% of American adults prioritize their sleep over other aspects of daily living such as fitness/nutrition, work, social life, and hobbies/personal interests.
While we might not be getting nearly enough shut eye, Dermalogica wants to make the most of that downtime with its new treatment, Sound Sleep Cocoon.
“Sleep deprivation can also affect the skin, with just a few nights of missed sleep resulting in dullness, fine lines, puffy eyes, and dark circles. At the same time, skin is best able to repair and regenerate itself at night, so it’s in skin’s best interest to get a good night’s sleep. At Dermalogica, we saw an opportunity to help people understand the importance of active sleep by creating a product that optimizes nighttime skin recovery and promotes a restful sleep,” said Elizabeth Jones, advanced instructor at Dermalogica.
Sound Sleep Cocoon is a gel-cream that works with the skin’s natural overnight repair and recovery process to optimize the skin benefits of the sleep one does get. The R&D team harnessed unique ingredients for the formulation, like Albizia Julibrissin Bark (Persian Silk Tree) extract, nicknamed the “night sleeper” because its leaves open in sunlight and close at night; Evodia Rutaecarpa (Fruits of Wu-Zhu-Yu) Fruit extract; Kakadu Plum Extract, noted for its unique combination of hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants; and Tamarindus Indicia extract, a naturally occurring polysaccharide with a chemical structure similar to hyaluronic acid.
Sleep Sound Cocoon also helps promote sleep through aromatherapy, namely French Lavender oil, sandalwood and patchouli.
“Our sense of smell is closely linked to the brain’s limbic system, which controls emotion and behavior...We have specially-encapsulated the lavandin oil in motion-activated biodegradable polymeric microcapsules that allow it to be released throughout the night as clients toss and turn, promoting deep, restful sleep,” said Jones.
Maybe Ponce de Leon missed the mark; rather than searching all that time for Fountain of Youth, maybe a good night’s sleep is all that one needs to remain looking young.
Below is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers. For more information on these products, Please contact the companies listed using the information provided.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Almond Oil, 100% Sterol Guaranteed
INCI: Prunus Amygdalas Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Almond Oil is a natural emollient and excellent moisturizer for body lotions, creams and moisturizers, bath products, hair care products and makeups. It is a mild oil with a non-greasy feel, which is easily absorbed into the skin and hair, leaving it soft and supple.
Avocado Oil
INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Avocado Oil is an effective emollient, which rapidly absorbs into the skin. It protects from damaging UV rays, making it an excellent body Oil. Avocado Oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in body lotions, creams or moisturizers, hair care products and baby soaps
Jojoba Oil
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: This extremely efficient non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic “oil” is not actually triglyceride oil but a liquid wax and its unique chemical makeup mimics the sebum naturally present on human skin. Used in lotions, creams, soaps and massage oils, Jojoba Oil moisturizes and soften rough, dry skin without blocking pores.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: 800-505-8984
Website: www.ashland.com/personalcare
Optimage SF microgel
INCI: Water (and) Polyquaternium-28 (and) PVM/MA Copolymer
Suggested Use level: 20% (v/v; equivalent to 2% active in final formulation)
Comments: Optimage SF microgel is a silicone-free solution for rapid improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It achieves this due to a gel-matrix composition that adapts to wrinkle topology. It is robust in a wide range of skin care applications, and supplied as a liquid for formulator convenience.
Biosil Technologies Inc.
Allendale, NJ USA
Tel.: 201-825-8800
Email: bioinfo@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com
PHYCO-DERM
INCI: water (and) Glycerin (and) Undaria pinnatifida extract (and) Corallina officinalis extract
Suggested Use level: 3% - 5%
Comments: PHYCO-DERM Takes care of the delicate area around the eyes Stimulates the major defense systems for increasing resistance against environmental stressors. Improves the dermis propertiesfor smoothing fine lines and wrinkles of crow’s feet. Minimizes the appearance of under-eye dark circlesfor erasing the look of fatigue. Reduces the volume of under-eye bags for alleviating skin puffiness.
FIRM’ACT
Suggested Use levelL 3% - 5%
INCI: water (and) Himanthalia elongata extract (and) Fucus vesiculosus extract (and) Saccharamyces cerevisiae extract
Comments: FIRM’ACT targets adaptive defensive stress response through hormesis-based prevention, up-regulates the gene expression of unique markers involved in the adaptive cellular stress response for maximizing protective effects, strengthens the dermal structure for boosting the extracellular matrix maintenance, increases skin antioxidant capacity & protects against UV-induced damage. Firm’Act also delays facial skin sagging & increases skin firmness for a more toned and better protected skin.
SOLEXYL
INCI: Hydroxyethyl-methylthiopropenamide
Suggested Use level: 0.5% - 1.5%.
Comments: Solexyl was developed by Exsymol in order to fight UVs. This active molecule inspired by nature is capable of opposing the UV noxious effects in several
complementary ways:
– It absorbs UV and therefore decreases the direct damages of these rays
– It negates the indirect noxious effects of UV by opposing free radicals
– It prevents the isomerization of Trans-UCA into Cis-UCA hence preventing the apparition
of side effects caused by it.
Furthermore Solexyl provides long lasting benefits as it is naturally recycled into and from Entadamide A, a completely safe natural UV absorber and anti-inflammatory compound found in tropical liana, for further sun protection.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Nelpure
INCI: Propanediol, Glycerin, Nymphaea Caerulea Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Suggested Use Level: 2.0%
Applications: Anti-aging and Moisturizing Skin products
Comments: Nelupure is a blended extract from two types of lotus flower, that delivers several benefits to the skin resulting in a flawless complexion. Nelupure E helps to balance sebum secretion, diminish skin shine and reduce blemishes. Nelupure reduces the expression of the leptin cellular receptor in sebocytes, which prevent it from triggering sebum production and inflammatory processes that cause skin blemishes. The results of in vivo studies on both male and female subjects showed that Nelupure reduces excess sebum production in the skin and the processes that cause inflammation of the pores, leaving a smooth, radiant and pure complexion. Nelupure, inspired by lotus purity, will immediately yield a clearer, more radiant complexion after just one application.
Beauactive
INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid
Suggested Use Level: up to 1.0%
Applications: Skin Care products
Comments: Beauactive is a highly pure hydroxystearic acid, which is manufactured using green technology. Beauactive has shown through in vitro clinical testing to activate the master cell regulatory PPARα, which triggers multi-target effects for better skin. Beauactive hinders the production of both sunburn cells and stress marker p53, which can increase skin pigmentation, when skin is expose to UVB stress. Beauactive also helps skin to make more collagen, a key structural factor in the prevention of conspicuous facial pores. In vivo studies have confirmed the outstanding efficacy of Beauactive which results in a visible reduction of facial pores and age spots— giving skin a younger appearance.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 851026-0
Email: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
MultiMoist CLR
INCI: Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Water
Suggested Use Level: 3.0%
Comments: Increases production and activation of the vitamin D receptor and potentiates the effects of vitamin D. MultiMoist CLR promotes epidermal differentiation, an essential feature in obtaining well moisturized skin. Its moisturizing activity was convincingly proven with multiple complementary in vivo technologies.
Gattefossé
Saint-Priest, Lyon, France
Tel: 1-201-265-4800
Email: ldeldotto@gattefossecorp.com
Website: www.gattefosse.com
Gatuline Link n Lift
INCI: Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract
Suggested Use Level: 2%
Comments: Gatuline Link n Lift is an anti-aging active that smoothes the eye contour area for a younger, fresher look. It restores fibroblast dynamism and reinforces the dermal-epidermal junction.
Gatuline Link n Lift visibly improves all eye contour wrinkles including crow’s feet, under-eye, and the valley of tears.
Emulium Mellifera MB
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol
Suggested Use Level: 2-4%
Comments: Emulium Mellifera MB is a natural, PEG-free, O/W sensory emulsifier. It is based on a patented technology which transforms and functionalizes natural waxes, delivering a light skin feel and clinical activity.
Emulium Mellifera MB creates textures that auto-adapt to climate, deliver moisturization and provide pollution protection.
Koster Keunen
Watertown, CT
Tel: 860-945-3333
Email: info@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.kosterkeunen.com
SynKos Wax Series
INCI: Synthetic Wax
Suggested Use Level: 1-10%
Comments: SynKos Waxes are used as gelling agents, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, and barriers. They are also used to modify hardness, slip and melting point. They are compatible with all cosmetic systems and can replace polyethylene and petrochemical waxes in formulation. The series includes five products, SynKos 2030, 2040, 2050, 2060 and 2065.
Kester Wax K-385
INCI: Cetyl Myristate
Suggested Use level: 1-10%
Comments: This new emollient ester gives creaminess, texture and slip to formulation. It will also add stability due to the higher melt point of 44C. It has excellent synergy with cosmetic ingredients.
Lincoln Manufacturing - USA
Lincoln, RI
Tel: 800-201- 4479
Email: PatLutz@LincolnMFG-USA.com
Website: www.LincolnMFG-USA.com
LinPure NGA
INCI: Glycolic acid (Natural)
Suggested Use Level: 1-5%
Comments: LinPure NGA is all natural 70% Glycolic acid from molasses/sugarcane. Glycolic acid is one of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) used in skin products to offer many benefits to skin, from rejuvenating to moisturizing. Glycolic acid is excellent for exfoliating skin. LinPure NGA process is formaldehyde/formic acid free unlike other synthetic processes.
LinPure NP-COS
INCI: Propanediol (Natural)
Suggested Use Level: 1-10%
Comments: LinPure NP-COS is the all-natural, propanediol from corn sugar. LinPure NP-COS is COSMOS certified. Mild, versatile humectant and natural solvent. Used in all types of products from skin moisturizers and cleansers to baby care to shampoos and conditioners to body washes to wipes and all cosmetics.
LinPure VIT B5
INCI: DL-Panthenol
Suggested Use Level: 1 - 5%
Comments: LinPure Vit B5 is DL-Panthenol (aka Pro-Vitamin B5) powder is a stable mixture ofD-Panthenol and L-Panthenol.
The human body readily absorbs DL-Panthenol through the skin and it rapidly converts D-Panthenol to Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5), a natural constituent of healthy hair and a substance present in all living cells.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
MossCellTec No. 1
INCI: Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua/ Water
Suggested Use level: 2 %
Comments: MossCellTec No. 1 is the first cosmetic ingredient from biotechnologically produced moss.
This active was shown to improve cell nucleus health which is a novel anti-aging concept. Clinical studies demonstrated a significant increase in skin hydration and skin homogeneity despite changing and stressful climatic conditions.
Depolluphane
INCI: Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract (and) Pullulan (and) Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water
Suggested Use Level: 1 - 2 %
Comments: Depolluphane is a novel active ingredient to protect the skin from urban pollution.
An organic cress sprout extract combined with a smart polysaccharide complex provides the skin with two lines of defense: a shield against particulate matter and messenger compounds to activate detoxification enzymes in the skin.
Densorphin
INCI: Vitex Agnus Castus Extract/Vitex Agnus-Castus Fruit Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water
Suggested Use Level: 2 %
Comments: Densorphin is a new cosmetic ingredient with DHEA and beta-endorphin activity for firming and lifting products. The hormones DHEA and beta-endorphin are essential for tissue regeneration but the synthesis of both declines between 30 and 40.
Densorphin is a unique, novel anti-aging treatment for women’s and man’s skin.
Protameen Chemicals Inc.
Totowa, NJ
Tel: 973-256-4374
Email: info@protameen.com
Website: www.protameen.com
Protapon SCI
INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Suggested Use Level: Up to 50% for rinse-off, up to 15% for leave-on
Comments: Highly active anionic surfactant, derived from coconut based fatty acids, has excellent detergent properties while still being mild for sensitive skin care such as face and baby, personal care and hair care applications.
Silab
Saint-Viance, FRANCE
Telephone: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
Oxygeskin
INCI: Tropaeolum majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Suggested Use Level: 1 to 3%
Comments: Oxygeskin is a natural active ingredient, derived from the nasturtium flower, which revives complexion radiance by reinvigorating the skin oxygenation in conditions of chronological aging or digital pollution. It also limits the appearance of free radicals and damage to the matrix caused by blue light. The skin’s quality is thus improved, the healthy-glow effect restored.
Neurofense
INCI: Butylene Glycol & Water & Salvia miltiorrhiza Root Extract
Suggested Use Level: 0.5 to 2%
Comments: Neurofense is an overall natural neuro-soothing active ingredient acting on the three biological components of skin sensitivity: neuronal hyper-reactivity, quality of the cutaneous barrier and skin inflammation.
Derived from the roots of red sage (Chinese medicinal plant highly resistant to cold), it enables sensitive skin exposed to cold and pollution to recover comfort and protection.
Ecobiotys
INCI: Yeast Extract
Suggested Use Level: 1 to 2.5%
Comments: Ecobiotys is a natural active ingredient bio-inspired by the regulating capacity of the microbiota of floral nectar, the Nectarobiota. Obtained from the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii, isolated from the porcelain flower Hoya carnosa, it specifically rebalances the microbiota of mature skin. The quality of the skin barrier is thereby improved, the complexion enhanced.
The fixation on healthy skin has been a boon for marketers, as sales in both the mass and luxury sectors of the market have been rising during the past year. In the 12 months ending February 2018, US prestige skin care market sales hit $5.8 billion, up 13% versus the prior year, according to The NPD Group.
“While masks and alternative skin care products like essences, face mists and boosters are experiencing strong growth, skin care’s rising sales could also be attributed to the more basic categories such as facial moisturizers, which had been declining in prior years,” said Larissa Jensen, beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group. “What is most interesting about the turnaround in moisturizer sales is that existing products are the main contributor to the increase in sales. Consumers are looking toward perennial favorites and products they know work for them in the more classic categories, like moisturizer, that they forge an emotional connection with.”
Mass is showing similar traits. IRI reported that sales in US multi-outlets rose 5.3% to $3.77 billion for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 25, 2018. Digging into the data, it appears there are similar shifts in what consumers are purchasing in these outlets, too. For example, while mass market facial anti-aging sales dropped 2.21%, facial moisturizer sales rose 10.14% and facial cleansers posted a 14.28% gain.
Research Drives NPD
While there’s a shift in spending toward the basics (think moisturizers and cleansers), research and development in the skin care space is anything but basic. Teams across the globe are digging deeper into myriad factors that impact skin health and coming up with insights that could very well drive future product development.
In March, for example, Amorepacific reported in Science Advances that the higher incidence of skin diseases in more urbanized populations is due to differences in skin microbiomes.
While many city residents suffer from skin disorders including atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and hives, the correlation between the degree of urbanization and skin disease had not been previously revealed. Together with Chung-Ang University College of Biotechnology and Natural Resource, the Amorepacific R&D Center analyzed skin microbiomes of 231 Chinese women.
The research was constructed to test the hypothesis: “the reason urban residents have more skin disorders compared to those who do not, is due to the ecology of skin microbiomes.”
The collaborative effort between Amorepacific R&D Center, Amorepacific Shanghai R&I Center and the research team from Chung-Ang University’s Department of Systems Biotechnology tested the skin microbiomes of women residing in five cities with a population of more than one million: Beijing, Guangzhou, Kunming, Xi’an and Hohhot. It was found that colonies of microbiomes were more concentrated in more urbanized cities (Beijing and Guangzhou) than those in the less urbanized cities (Kunming, Xi’an and Hohhot).
According to Amorepacific, the main criteria in measuring urbanization—population, population density and air quality—had a significant impact on the ecological constitution of skin microbiomes. The discovery explains the higher frequency of skin diseases in city residents compared to non-city residents is caused by the difference in the ecological structure of skin microbiomes.
“Finding the correlation between urbanization and skin microbiomes is special as it serves as a basis to the development of solutions for skin problems that modern city residents experience,” said Han Sang-hoon, head of Amorepacific R&D Center, in a statement.
Active research into the characteristics of skin, scalp and hair conditions plays an important role in the development of the company’s new products. Amorepacific has been studying skin characteristics of Koreans and Chinese people since 1999, according to Hanbyul Kim, safety and microbiology lab, Amorepacific R&D.
“We have tried to develop products that cater to different skin characteristics according to region and age and have different skin characteristics. We have continuously expanded our research area from skin to scalp, hair and so on in various regions…then we became interested in the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin diseases,” Kim told Happi about the genesis of this latest finding.
“Skin microbes maintain a stable network and control the homeostasis of the skin. In mega-cities, this network is unstable and is more likely to be exposed to skin disease. Therefore, we may try to develop the technology and products for mega-city citizens to increase the network stability of these microorganisms,” Kim said.
The microbiome and skin health is garnering attention, and even investment dollars, among the biggest names in the business.
Unilever Ventures, for example, was the lead investor in a recently closed financing round for Gallinée Ltd. The investment marked Unilever Ventures’ foray into microbiome-based products.
Launched in 2016 by Marie Drago, a French pharmacist with 15 years of experience working for successful skin care brands, Gallinée was inspired by her own autoimmune diseases and a desire to create products that support the skin’s good bacteria.
Drago told Happi that consumers grasp the over-arching concept behind her line.
“It is changing so fast, it’s amazing. Two years ago when we launched, we had to explain a lot about pro and prebiotics, but now the consumer is very aware of it, even for the skin,” she said. “The sentence I hear the most is ‘It makes so much sense,’ and I love hearing that!”
“We have been impressed by Gallinée’s level of innovation and consistency. It is rare to find such young brands with the right mix of science and consumer focus. I look forward to working with Marie and her team to build upon the company’s momentum and many growth opportunities,” Anna Ohlsson-Baskerville, director with Unilever Ventures, said in a statement.
“For a young company like Gallinée, this is an amazing opportunity. We are not even two years old,” Drago told Happi. “We loved the ethics and the transparency of Unilever, and thanks to their investment, we are developing new products and are planning for international expansion. I also think it is great to see the big players starting to make moves in the microbiome space.”
The funding from Unilever Ventures, and other strategic partners in the round, will be used to develop the Gallinée team, extend the range and finance R&D.
Consumer Appeal
As companies explore issues such as pollution and microbiome, formulating skin care products that appeal to a wide swath of consumers remains an NPD driver, especially at leading mass market brands. At P&G, for example, the R&D team zeroed in on texture to develop new “Whips” that can be found across the key Olay collections including Regenerist, Luminous and Total Effects. The creation of this new format, which began rolling out in late Q4 2017, stemmed from consumer research into what prevents women from using a moisturizer or skin treatment even when they know better. According to Dr. Frauke Neuser, principal scientist, Olay skin care, skin feel is often the main culprit.
While the Olay franchise already enjoys a loyal following, P&G wanted to bring others into the fold, such as those who may not like heavier feel products.
“We are very close to our consumers. We want to understand what our consumers are looking for,” Neuser said, noting that the brand has been able to gather key data from its Olay Skin Advisor platform which has had approximately 4 million site visits to date.
To develop the new Whips, the Olay R&D team targeted the polymers.
“There’s only so much you can do in a classic emulsion,” Neuser said. “We looked at a delivery system that would overcome the film forming sensation. That’s where we looked at different polymers.”
The Whip formulations feature a starch-based polymer but the “same active packages” as that of their sister products, explained Neuser, who noted that the brand is keeping close tabs on how consumers react to these new formats as summer approaches. The new, lighter Olay Whip format also boasts UV protection, which could aid in compliance among women who may have shied away from heavy products with much-needed sun protection.
Unilever, too, has addressed skin feel with its Dove DermaSeries, which is billed as a completely hypoallergenic and fragrance-free range of products focused on three factors—use of only the mildest skin cleansers, focus on replenishment of skin-natural lipids, and luxurious textures. Moisturizers help seal skin’s moisture, as well as activate PPARs (a protein found in skin) to replenish skin lipids and improve the quality of skin’s outermost layer, according to the brand.
Market leader Neutrogena also recognizes its role as an innovator in mass.
Neutrogena believes that everyone should have access to efficacious and high-quality skin care solutions, noted Amrika Ganness, facial moisture treatment leader at Neutrogena. “When creating new products, we always look to bring new innovations, ingredients and forms to a mass audience. For example, we were the first to introduce stabilized retinol in a jar to the masses with the launch of Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream. With this launch, Neutrogena scientists discovered how to maintain retinol integrity in a breakthrough form—a super-emollient cream with a rich, melting texture, packaged in a jar container.”
According to Anne-Sophie Brillouet, Neutrogena R&D franchise leader, it’s a deep understanding of consumers and their skin care needs and needs that leads Neutrogena to introduce new skin care products—including its new “fragrance free” Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream.
“We are constantly investing in education, technology and innovation, to provide consumers with the best products and tools to enable them to live beautifully, especially when it comes to the efficacy and stability of our leading anti-wrinkle technology—retinol. Our delivery and patented system offers the ultimate balance of efficacy, sustained stability and mitigated irritation—three critical factors that we do not compromise on. We continue to invest on future forms relevant for our consumer’s anti-wrinkle skin care regimen,” added Brillouet.
Developments at Derm Lines
While mass market aisles offer plenty of choices, the dermatologist’s office remains another key outlet for consumers seeking help with their skin.
Recently, Obagi’s R&D team was tasked with developing a new line that would expand the company’s reach. Their efforts resulted in SuzanObagiMD, a new range of rejuvenating products specifically designed for two patient categories: those who adhere to a lifestyle that favors more natural alternatives and wish to avoid certain ingredients, yet still won’t entrust their skin to anyone other than a medical brand; and those with skin too sensitive to take the full Obagi Medical regimen, according to Laurence Dryer, PhD, VP of R&D.
“Such patients traditionally have no recourse other than much weaker solutions from drugstores, thus losing an opportunity to receive true Medical assistance for their skin concerns,” Dryer said.
The SuzanObagiMD formulas are ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin; they treat a wide range of skin concerns and types, including the appearance of photoaging, rough or lackluster skin, and delicate or sensitive skin. The line includes Foaming Cleanser, Balancing Toner, Acne Cleansing Wipes, Cleansing Wipes, Soothing Complex Broad Spectrum SPF 25, Intensive Daily Repair (IDR), and Retivance Skin Rejuvenating Complex.
According to Dryer, Retivance is “without a doubt the most innovative product” in the new line. “The product features Retinaldehyde, a seldom-used retinoid with all the efficacy without the side effects often encountered by sensitive patients. The retinaldehyde molecule lies closer to retinoic acid than other compounds on the retinoid biosynthesis pathway and thus is thought to provide rejuvenating efficacy without inducing as much irritation. The product was also engineered in an unusual chassis designed to stabilize its core compound as well as provide great aesthetic feel.”
Dryer also called attention to the line’s core technology, a specific antioxidant blend that “marries the free-radical fighting power of sulforaphane from Brassica oleracea, to the antioxidant activity of citrus bioflavonoids, and the soothing effect of aloe. This new cocktail packs a punch and aims to rejuvenate skin by scavenging free radicals that may inflict damages,” she said.
Another popular derm-dispensed brand, Colorescience, says it has found instant success with its new Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35, which rolled out in February and promises both immediate and long-term improvement.
Formulated to hydrate and improve skin health of the entire eye area, Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35 is clinically proven to immediately brighten dark circles and imperfections, while improving the overall appearance of dark circles, puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles when used twice daily for just four weeks—all while using a 100% mineral SPF 35 that protects against UVA/UVB rays and environmental stressors that contribute to early skin aging. It also works as a primer to allow for a smoother application of concealer and eye makeup, and can also be applied throughout the day as a midday refresher.
In a multi-center study, Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35 was administered by physicians to 90 patients following a variety of in-office procedures and consultations at 17 centers. After four weeks, 95% of participants reported immediate improvements in one or more eye concerns with 95% claiming their eyes look more rested and youthful and 94% stating that they felt more confident overall.
The formulation is fueled by five key ingredients; each serves a specific purpose but work synergistically, according to Patricia Boland, VP of product development. The ingredients are: Actineyes, a combination of sea water and marine microalgae that protects skin from impurities while addressing skin laxity and under-eye bags by helping support the health of collagen and increasing firmness of skin; Lucas Meyer’s Aldavine 5X, which is comprised of two polysaccharides that maintain the health of capillaries to minimize puffiness around the eyes and reduce pigmentation that causes dark circles; Phytomoist, which contains plant-based hyaluronic acid and betaine and is four times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid; Sederma’s Beautifeye, which is composed of two plant extracts working synergistically to reduce the volume and depth of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet, and minimize the fold of the upper eyelid for a smoother appearance; and DSM’s Syn-Eye, which delivers a powerful blend of peptides and vitamins shown to address such concerns as under-eye bags, dark circles, fine lines, wrinkles, and puffiness in as little as seven days with visible results.
And, these high-profile ingredients are used at levels where efficacy is guaranteed, according to the company.
“In all Colorescience formulas, we only use specialty ingredients at levels where they have been tested,” insisted Borlind.
According to Jameson Slattery, VP of marketing at Colorescience, this new eye product has already exceeded the company’s own sales expectations and has become a leading product, topping the brand’s well-known Sunforgtteable brush franchise. This level success has prompted the R&D team to build out the Total Eye Collection with new formats, due out in the near future.
Not Growing Old
Even as sales are currently shifting toward basic skin care products, anti-aging remains a focus for product development.
Pur Attitude, Boca Raton, FL, recently rolled out the new PURenergizer Complete Anti-Aging Kit, which uses a waterless natural polymer system and handheld device that “harnesses ultra sonic nanotechnology to transform targeted serums into a potent “nano-vapor” that can penetrate more deeply into the skin.
“Traditional skin care generally lists water as the first or primary ingredient in a formulation. However, water is not the best way to hydrate the skin,” said David Pollock, the chemist behind PURenergizer.
The ultrasonic technology in the device is said to work like a nebulizer. Since the nano-solutions contain phospholipids, when exposed to the physical energy of the infuser, liposomes are created, and the serum is transformed into a quick-absorbing cool vapor, according to the company.
“Years ago, liposomes where considered ‘the answer’ for delivery system challenges in skin care. However, liposomes were not stable in emulsions for long periods of time. We have solved that problem by creating liposomes “fresh” at the time of delivery,” said Pollock, who has developed products for many firms, including Bliss, Smashbox, Lancôme, L’Oréal and SkinCeuticals, to name just a few.
Also targeting anti-aging is Progenitor Biologics, LLC, maker of DefenAge Skincare. DefenAge’s proprietary ingredient is Age-Repair Defensins, an ingredient said to work via a natural mechanism of action with the body’s own stem cells. Published pre-clinical research shows that defensins activate dormant LGR6-positive stem cells, and after activation, they physically migrate into the basal layer of the skin and create a new epidermis, and eventually, new, younger-acting skin.
“Similar to this mechanism are laser and microneeding treatments–they create damage and skin regenerates. Defensins stimulate regeneration without damage. They simply stimulate similar regeneration pathway without entire cascade of skin damages,” said Progenitor Biologic CEO Nikolay Turovets, PhD.
DefenAge is stocked more than 300 US-based aesthetic physicians and medi-spas, but Turovets said he’s ready to push the line further based on the strength of a recent participant- and investigator-blinded, placebo-controlled, multi-center trial.
“The double-blind study of such size and comprehensive design is really unusual for the skin care industry and more commonly used to evaluate the efficacy of drugs rather than skin care products. Most of skin care brands do not do such studies because it’s too risky,” he told Happi.
Sleep It Off
Another big area that is being explored by nearly all with a stake in health and wellness is sleep—or, the lack of it. According to the National Sleep Foundation, only 10% of American adults prioritize their sleep over other aspects of daily living such as fitness/nutrition, work, social life, and hobbies/personal interests.
While we might not be getting nearly enough shut eye, Dermalogica wants to make the most of that downtime with its new treatment, Sound Sleep Cocoon.
“Sleep deprivation can also affect the skin, with just a few nights of missed sleep resulting in dullness, fine lines, puffy eyes, and dark circles. At the same time, skin is best able to repair and regenerate itself at night, so it’s in skin’s best interest to get a good night’s sleep. At Dermalogica, we saw an opportunity to help people understand the importance of active sleep by creating a product that optimizes nighttime skin recovery and promotes a restful sleep,” said Elizabeth Jones, advanced instructor at Dermalogica.
Sound Sleep Cocoon is a gel-cream that works with the skin’s natural overnight repair and recovery process to optimize the skin benefits of the sleep one does get. The R&D team harnessed unique ingredients for the formulation, like Albizia Julibrissin Bark (Persian Silk Tree) extract, nicknamed the “night sleeper” because its leaves open in sunlight and close at night; Evodia Rutaecarpa (Fruits of Wu-Zhu-Yu) Fruit extract; Kakadu Plum Extract, noted for its unique combination of hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants; and Tamarindus Indicia extract, a naturally occurring polysaccharide with a chemical structure similar to hyaluronic acid.
Sleep Sound Cocoon also helps promote sleep through aromatherapy, namely French Lavender oil, sandalwood and patchouli.
“Our sense of smell is closely linked to the brain’s limbic system, which controls emotion and behavior...We have specially-encapsulated the lavandin oil in motion-activated biodegradable polymeric microcapsules that allow it to be released throughout the night as clients toss and turn, promoting deep, restful sleep,” said Jones.
Maybe Ponce de Leon missed the mark; rather than searching all that time for Fountain of Youth, maybe a good night’s sleep is all that one needs to remain looking young.
Below is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers. For more information on these products, Please contact the companies listed using the information provided.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Almond Oil, 100% Sterol Guaranteed
INCI: Prunus Amygdalas Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Almond Oil is a natural emollient and excellent moisturizer for body lotions, creams and moisturizers, bath products, hair care products and makeups. It is a mild oil with a non-greasy feel, which is easily absorbed into the skin and hair, leaving it soft and supple.
Avocado Oil
INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Avocado Oil is an effective emollient, which rapidly absorbs into the skin. It protects from damaging UV rays, making it an excellent body Oil. Avocado Oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in body lotions, creams or moisturizers, hair care products and baby soaps
Jojoba Oil
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: This extremely efficient non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic “oil” is not actually triglyceride oil but a liquid wax and its unique chemical makeup mimics the sebum naturally present on human skin. Used in lotions, creams, soaps and massage oils, Jojoba Oil moisturizes and soften rough, dry skin without blocking pores.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: 800-505-8984
Website: www.ashland.com/personalcare
Optimage SF microgel
INCI: Water (and) Polyquaternium-28 (and) PVM/MA Copolymer
Suggested Use level: 20% (v/v; equivalent to 2% active in final formulation)
Comments: Optimage SF microgel is a silicone-free solution for rapid improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It achieves this due to a gel-matrix composition that adapts to wrinkle topology. It is robust in a wide range of skin care applications, and supplied as a liquid for formulator convenience.
Biosil Technologies Inc.
Allendale, NJ USA
Tel.: 201-825-8800
Email: bioinfo@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com
PHYCO-DERM
INCI: water (and) Glycerin (and) Undaria pinnatifida extract (and) Corallina officinalis extract
Suggested Use level: 3% - 5%
Comments: PHYCO-DERM Takes care of the delicate area around the eyes Stimulates the major defense systems for increasing resistance against environmental stressors. Improves the dermis propertiesfor smoothing fine lines and wrinkles of crow’s feet. Minimizes the appearance of under-eye dark circlesfor erasing the look of fatigue. Reduces the volume of under-eye bags for alleviating skin puffiness.
FIRM’ACT
Suggested Use levelL 3% - 5%
INCI: water (and) Himanthalia elongata extract (and) Fucus vesiculosus extract (and) Saccharamyces cerevisiae extract
Comments: FIRM’ACT targets adaptive defensive stress response through hormesis-based prevention, up-regulates the gene expression of unique markers involved in the adaptive cellular stress response for maximizing protective effects, strengthens the dermal structure for boosting the extracellular matrix maintenance, increases skin antioxidant capacity & protects against UV-induced damage. Firm’Act also delays facial skin sagging & increases skin firmness for a more toned and better protected skin.
SOLEXYL
INCI: Hydroxyethyl-methylthiopropenamide
Suggested Use level: 0.5% - 1.5%.
Comments: Solexyl was developed by Exsymol in order to fight UVs. This active molecule inspired by nature is capable of opposing the UV noxious effects in several
complementary ways:
– It absorbs UV and therefore decreases the direct damages of these rays
– It negates the indirect noxious effects of UV by opposing free radicals
– It prevents the isomerization of Trans-UCA into Cis-UCA hence preventing the apparition
of side effects caused by it.
Furthermore Solexyl provides long lasting benefits as it is naturally recycled into and from Entadamide A, a completely safe natural UV absorber and anti-inflammatory compound found in tropical liana, for further sun protection.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Nelpure
INCI: Propanediol, Glycerin, Nymphaea Caerulea Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Suggested Use Level: 2.0%
Applications: Anti-aging and Moisturizing Skin products
Comments: Nelupure is a blended extract from two types of lotus flower, that delivers several benefits to the skin resulting in a flawless complexion. Nelupure E helps to balance sebum secretion, diminish skin shine and reduce blemishes. Nelupure reduces the expression of the leptin cellular receptor in sebocytes, which prevent it from triggering sebum production and inflammatory processes that cause skin blemishes. The results of in vivo studies on both male and female subjects showed that Nelupure reduces excess sebum production in the skin and the processes that cause inflammation of the pores, leaving a smooth, radiant and pure complexion. Nelupure, inspired by lotus purity, will immediately yield a clearer, more radiant complexion after just one application.
Beauactive
INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid
Suggested Use Level: up to 1.0%
Applications: Skin Care products
Comments: Beauactive is a highly pure hydroxystearic acid, which is manufactured using green technology. Beauactive has shown through in vitro clinical testing to activate the master cell regulatory PPARα, which triggers multi-target effects for better skin. Beauactive hinders the production of both sunburn cells and stress marker p53, which can increase skin pigmentation, when skin is expose to UVB stress. Beauactive also helps skin to make more collagen, a key structural factor in the prevention of conspicuous facial pores. In vivo studies have confirmed the outstanding efficacy of Beauactive which results in a visible reduction of facial pores and age spots— giving skin a younger appearance.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 851026-0
Email: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
MultiMoist CLR
INCI: Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Water
Suggested Use Level: 3.0%
Comments: Increases production and activation of the vitamin D receptor and potentiates the effects of vitamin D. MultiMoist CLR promotes epidermal differentiation, an essential feature in obtaining well moisturized skin. Its moisturizing activity was convincingly proven with multiple complementary in vivo technologies.
Gattefossé
Saint-Priest, Lyon, France
Tel: 1-201-265-4800
Email: ldeldotto@gattefossecorp.com
Website: www.gattefosse.com
Gatuline Link n Lift
INCI: Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract
Suggested Use Level: 2%
Comments: Gatuline Link n Lift is an anti-aging active that smoothes the eye contour area for a younger, fresher look. It restores fibroblast dynamism and reinforces the dermal-epidermal junction.
Gatuline Link n Lift visibly improves all eye contour wrinkles including crow’s feet, under-eye, and the valley of tears.
Emulium Mellifera MB
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol
Suggested Use Level: 2-4%
Comments: Emulium Mellifera MB is a natural, PEG-free, O/W sensory emulsifier. It is based on a patented technology which transforms and functionalizes natural waxes, delivering a light skin feel and clinical activity.
Emulium Mellifera MB creates textures that auto-adapt to climate, deliver moisturization and provide pollution protection.
Koster Keunen
Watertown, CT
Tel: 860-945-3333
Email: info@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.kosterkeunen.com
SynKos Wax Series
INCI: Synthetic Wax
Suggested Use Level: 1-10%
Comments: SynKos Waxes are used as gelling agents, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, and barriers. They are also used to modify hardness, slip and melting point. They are compatible with all cosmetic systems and can replace polyethylene and petrochemical waxes in formulation. The series includes five products, SynKos 2030, 2040, 2050, 2060 and 2065.
Kester Wax K-385
INCI: Cetyl Myristate
Suggested Use level: 1-10%
Comments: This new emollient ester gives creaminess, texture and slip to formulation. It will also add stability due to the higher melt point of 44C. It has excellent synergy with cosmetic ingredients.
Lincoln Manufacturing - USA
Lincoln, RI
Tel: 800-201- 4479
Email: PatLutz@LincolnMFG-USA.com
Website: www.LincolnMFG-USA.com
LinPure NGA
INCI: Glycolic acid (Natural)
Suggested Use Level: 1-5%
Comments: LinPure NGA is all natural 70% Glycolic acid from molasses/sugarcane. Glycolic acid is one of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) used in skin products to offer many benefits to skin, from rejuvenating to moisturizing. Glycolic acid is excellent for exfoliating skin. LinPure NGA process is formaldehyde/formic acid free unlike other synthetic processes.
LinPure NP-COS
INCI: Propanediol (Natural)
Suggested Use Level: 1-10%
Comments: LinPure NP-COS is the all-natural, propanediol from corn sugar. LinPure NP-COS is COSMOS certified. Mild, versatile humectant and natural solvent. Used in all types of products from skin moisturizers and cleansers to baby care to shampoos and conditioners to body washes to wipes and all cosmetics.
LinPure VIT B5
INCI: DL-Panthenol
Suggested Use Level: 1 - 5%
Comments: LinPure Vit B5 is DL-Panthenol (aka Pro-Vitamin B5) powder is a stable mixture ofD-Panthenol and L-Panthenol.
The human body readily absorbs DL-Panthenol through the skin and it rapidly converts D-Panthenol to Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5), a natural constituent of healthy hair and a substance present in all living cells.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
MossCellTec No. 1
INCI: Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua/ Water
Suggested Use level: 2 %
Comments: MossCellTec No. 1 is the first cosmetic ingredient from biotechnologically produced moss.
This active was shown to improve cell nucleus health which is a novel anti-aging concept. Clinical studies demonstrated a significant increase in skin hydration and skin homogeneity despite changing and stressful climatic conditions.
Depolluphane
INCI: Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract (and) Pullulan (and) Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water
Suggested Use Level: 1 - 2 %
Comments: Depolluphane is a novel active ingredient to protect the skin from urban pollution.
An organic cress sprout extract combined with a smart polysaccharide complex provides the skin with two lines of defense: a shield against particulate matter and messenger compounds to activate detoxification enzymes in the skin.
Densorphin
INCI: Vitex Agnus Castus Extract/Vitex Agnus-Castus Fruit Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water
Suggested Use Level: 2 %
Comments: Densorphin is a new cosmetic ingredient with DHEA and beta-endorphin activity for firming and lifting products. The hormones DHEA and beta-endorphin are essential for tissue regeneration but the synthesis of both declines between 30 and 40.
Densorphin is a unique, novel anti-aging treatment for women’s and man’s skin.
Protameen Chemicals Inc.
Totowa, NJ
Tel: 973-256-4374
Email: info@protameen.com
Website: www.protameen.com
Protapon SCI
INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Suggested Use Level: Up to 50% for rinse-off, up to 15% for leave-on
Comments: Highly active anionic surfactant, derived from coconut based fatty acids, has excellent detergent properties while still being mild for sensitive skin care such as face and baby, personal care and hair care applications.
Silab
Saint-Viance, FRANCE
Telephone: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
Oxygeskin
INCI: Tropaeolum majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Suggested Use Level: 1 to 3%
Comments: Oxygeskin is a natural active ingredient, derived from the nasturtium flower, which revives complexion radiance by reinvigorating the skin oxygenation in conditions of chronological aging or digital pollution. It also limits the appearance of free radicals and damage to the matrix caused by blue light. The skin’s quality is thus improved, the healthy-glow effect restored.
Neurofense
INCI: Butylene Glycol & Water & Salvia miltiorrhiza Root Extract
Suggested Use Level: 0.5 to 2%
Comments: Neurofense is an overall natural neuro-soothing active ingredient acting on the three biological components of skin sensitivity: neuronal hyper-reactivity, quality of the cutaneous barrier and skin inflammation.
Derived from the roots of red sage (Chinese medicinal plant highly resistant to cold), it enables sensitive skin exposed to cold and pollution to recover comfort and protection.
Ecobiotys
INCI: Yeast Extract
Suggested Use Level: 1 to 2.5%
Comments: Ecobiotys is a natural active ingredient bio-inspired by the regulating capacity of the microbiota of floral nectar, the Nectarobiota. Obtained from the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii, isolated from the porcelain flower Hoya carnosa, it specifically rebalances the microbiota of mature skin. The quality of the skin barrier is thereby improved, the complexion enhanced.
