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    Features

    Decompress to Impress

    Deadlines, online all-the-time—with so many stressors in everyday life, it’s no wonder that spa sales are growing.

    Decompress to Impress
    More men are heading to spas, but industry experts say even more can be done to attract guys.
    Decompress to Impress
    Dermalogica is adding on to its skin care offerings with BioLumin-C serum.
    Decompress to Impress
    More consumers are looking to masks as beauty treatments.
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    Tom Branna , Editorial Director06.01.18
    Job got you down? How about the prying in-laws, nosy neighbors or annoying kids? The nightly news is rife with reports of terror attacks, nuclear threats and confrontations big and small, 24/7, thanks to our online-all-the-time society. It’s no wonder why more Americans are on anti-anxiety medications. According to a 2016 article in Scientific American, one in six Americans take a psychiatric drug; antidepressants were most common, followed by anxiety relievers and antipsychotics.


    Anxiety isn’t an all-American disorder by any means. The UK’s National Health Service prescribed a record number of antidepressants in 2016, fueling an upward trend that has seen the number of pills given to patients more than doubled during the past decade.


    Clearly consumers everywhere are under pressure, and more of them than ever are looking to spas, and the treatments that they provide, for relief. In 2016, the most recent numbers available, the number of US spa visits rose 2.5%.


    “Spa visits are now at an all-time high; over 184 million visitors walked through the doors and benefitted from spa treatments in 2016,” said Colin McIlheney, global research director, PwC, the auditing firm that conducts industry research for the International Spa Association (ISPA). “The key metrics are all continuing their upward trend, highlighting the importance of the spa industry.”
    Spas are important for women and men these days. According to recent data from ISPA, the proportion of men heading to spas has increased from 31% to 47% during the past decade. The primary reason more men are spa-goers? To manage stress, said Lynne McNees, president of ISPA, and that means more massages all around.


    According to the PwC study, massage is one of the most popular services requested at spas, as more consumers try to unplug and de-stress. In April, Elements Massage introduced AromaRitual aromatherapy treatments. Elements partnered with Shankara to produce three scents, Energize, Refresh and Calm. When used as part of a massage treatment, the scents are said to reduce stress and improve circulation.


    According to Shankara sales director Judith Bourgeois, Ayurveda offers a unique approach to aromatherapy that will help consumers unwind from stress and fully enjoy their treatment from the start. But to select the right Ayurvedic aromatherapy oil, spa professionals must identify how the person is reacting to stress in the moment.


    “When vata (air and space elements) is on the rise in our body and mind, we may start to feel anxious, ungrounded, scattered. This would be a go-to oil for a client’s first treatment after a long stretch of travel, as travel naturally increases vata,” said Bourgeois. “Excess pitta (fire and water elements) on the other hand will give rise to irritation, anger or a tendency to not want to let go of control. A tropical or beach resort might benefit from using this aromatherapy often, as increased heat elevates pitta.”


    Finally, when too much kapha (earth and water elements) is present, clients may start to feel lethargic, stuck and feel over-attached.


    “Applying the aromatherapy oils to pulse points and taking a few deep breaths at the very beginning of any treatment will only deepen the client’s spa experience,” she told Happi.


    The Energize scent contains lemon, ginger and geranium. It is said to provide a stimulating and invigorating experience that uplifts the senses, while providing balance and air purification for a deep cleanse. The Refresh scent contains eucalyptus, peppermint and patchouli for a balanced, soothing experience. It is said to freshen the air and support deep breathing for total relaxation. Finally, lavender, nutmeg and black pepper come together in the Calm scent to uplift, nurture and relax, as well as relieve muscle aches and treat headaches, according to Shankara.


    Another way to reduce the tension is to put down the damn phone! According to Michael Bruggeman, chief executive officer and chief formulation officer at Organic Male OM4, holding your head at a 45° angle looking at your phone puts a 48-pound strain on your neck and spine. His company offers a range of treatments just for guys.


    OM4 says it globally sources clinically-advanced, socially-responsible ingredients to target the unique biological skin differences and concerns of men. The brand’s mantra is: 4 Products | 4 Steps | 4 Minutes | 4 Men. Products are color-coded by skin type with each step numbered, making OM4 fast, easy and effective. OM4 says its core business is to help partners  grasp the psychology of selling to men and capture a greater percentage of the fastest growing market in spa.


    Aches & Pains

    Muscle aches, headaches and heartaches, too, can weigh on consumers as they age. The midlife crisis is real, and may help explain why consumers are seeking the relief provided by spas.


    According to Jonathan Rauch, author of The Happiness Curve. Why Life Gets Better After 50, folks in their 40s often find themselves asking “what happened?” In his book, Rauch refers to “an accumulated drizzle of disappointment which can become self-sustaining but is quite unlike clinical depression or anxiety.”


    That’s because of something called the U-shaped Happiness Curve, which is psychologists way of saying that youth and old age are times of relative happiness. The low point comes during the onset of middle age, before turning around at 50 or so.


    About Face

    Of course, looking one’s best is sure to help turn that midlife frown upside down! Repêchage has rolled out an array of brighteners, masks and even a foundation to give their customers a lift. The newest skin products from Repêchage include two Express Facials (Repêchage Biolight Express Brightening Facial For Dull, Uneven Skin and Repêchage Red-Out Express Soothing Facial For Sensitive Skin). According to the company, the new treatments provide many of the benefits of full facial treatments in half the time by utilizing pre-saturated sheet masks to provide exceptional results in 30 minutes. Repêchage Express Facials can be used to supplement regular monthly full facial treatments, and are able to be enjoyed mid-day or after work without changing clothes, and even during other services.


    But Repêchage doesn’t have the fast-facial market to itself. Last month, Sephora partnered with HydraFacial to offer the retailer’s first spa-grade facials at more than 100 of its stores. The 20-minute Perk Hydrating Facial service includes a skin-care consultation and is free with the purchase of $75 or more. To reach even more consumers, last month HydraFacial hit the road in a Treatment Truck that will travel the US to perform free HydraFacial treatments. The truck is said to transform into a 40x40’ mobile spa outfitted with four HydraFacial treatment stations and lounge. The tour runs through October.


    But wherever they purchase their products, more consumers want less processing and synthetic materials. Repêchage CEO and founder Lydia Sarfati cited a 2017 Statista survey that found 59% of responding US consumers prefer to purchase skin care products that are natural or organic. That’s just one reason why her company uses sustainably-harvested seaweed from Maine.


    “Repêchage is the leading seaweed-based professional skin care manufacturer, creating products based on ingredients from both the earth and sea to create the most effective results in the spa and salon as well as at-home,” she insisted.


    The company works with scientists and aquaculturists to sustainably harvest several species of nutrient-rich seaweeds, which are dried, packed and sent to Repêchage’s ISO 9001-2015 manufacturing facility. There, by a proprietary process, a pure seaweed filtrate is created that retains all the vitamins, minerals, trace elements and amino acids present in the seaweed. According to Sarfati, Repêchage also incorporates the best ingredients from biotechnology, including the latest generation of hyaluronic acid, alpha arbutin, peptides, oxidized glutathione and diglucosyl gallic acid (DGA), as well as a host of natural extracts to help the skin appear soft, smooth and renewed.


    Three new at-home masks recently debuted from Repêchage—Biolight Brightening Sheet Mask for Dull, Uneven Skin; Red-Out Soothing Sheet Mask for Sensitive Skin and Lamina Lift Hydrating Seaweed Mask For All Skin Types.


    Why the attention on facial masks? Sarfati pointed to a Euromonitor International study that puts the global face mask market at $5.7 billion in 2016 and is expected to grow to $8.8 billion in 2021. Within this category, sheet masks are a top growth driver, estimated to be worth $551.3 million by 2026.


    Masks may be driving growth, but formulators aren’t forsaking traditional creams and lotions. Nelly De Vuyst’s new BioTense organic skin care collection is formulated with something called Oleosome Plant Technology, which time-releases active ingredients throughout the skin providing long-lasting hydration and nutrients. The BioTense range includes a micellar foam, cleansing milk, exfoliant, serum, extract, pH toner and mask.


    This month, Dermalogica is rolling out BioLumin-C serum, which is said to combine ultra-stable vitamin C complex with advanced bio-technology—delivering the natural power of vitamin C where it’s needed most. Dermalogica contends BioLumin-C does more than brighten, firm and reduce the appearance of fine lines; it enhances skin’s own defenses, giving clients brighter skin from within thanks to several key ingredients:
    • Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate protects against free radical damage and helps even skin tone.
    • Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate, one of the most stable forms of vitamin C, helps firm skin and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
    • Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 firms skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
    • Lactic acid removes dulling debris, revealing brighter skin.
    • Sophora japonica flower extract is a rich source of polyphenols with antioxidant protection.
    • Salvia hispanica (chia seed) oil is rich in antioxidants, moisturizes and helps quench free radicals.

    Another new spa skin care item that’s chockfull of active ingredients is Nia 24’s Rapid Redness Recovery. It’s said to be ideal for post-abalative procedures, lasers, dermabrasion and more. It contains pro-niacin to strengthen the skin barrier and promote regeneration and recovery as well as licorice root, horse chestnut, vitamin E, Evodia extract and caffeine.


    What’s Ahead

    Nearly every owner and supplier Happi interviewed agreed that one key to future growth is attracting even more men to spas. They note that men are spending more time and money on improving their appearance as they seek to improve their professional and social lives.


    “In order to better service male clientele, the spa atmosphere and treatment menus must include a separate men’s services menu,” observed Sarfati.  “These services should include treatments that incorporate efficacious ingredients that will provide visible benefits immediately, as well as start lessening the appearance of ongoing skin conditions such as excess oiliness, or skin irritation from shaving.” 


    Hair Today…Gone Tomorrow

    New York City-based Cosmed Laser offers a wide selection of laser treatments for a variety of maladies including hair removal, spider vein removal, antibiotic infused facials, skin tightening, body contouring, and fat and cellulite reduction.


    According to Nelly Howe, an internationally-certified skin therapist and medical and master esthetician, hair removal is a major concern for many people. Some of the most popular forms of temporary hair removal include shaving, waxing, tweezing and using depilatory creams.


    “However laser hair removal is considered permanent for removing unwanted hair from the face, leg, arm, underarm, bikini line, and other areas,” she told Happi. “Lasers can selectively target dark, coarse hairs while leaving the surrounding skin undamaged.”


    The majority of Cosmed Laser Spa clients seeking help with unwanted stubborn hair.


    “We serve variety of customers with different backgrounds due to the latest technology that we utilize such as Cynosure Elite MD and Cysnosure Elite + which can treat any type of skin color.”


    Howe maintains that customers prefer to move forward with high-technology hair removal solutions such as laser hair removal due to safe and effective treatment for permanent reduction.


    “We serve a variety of customers with different needs. Lasers are used for hair removal as well as acne and skin rejuvenation, spider veins,” she noted.


    Cosmed Laser Spa counsels its clients about post procedure care such as avoiding the sun for two weeks. However, according to Howe, Cynosure elite lasers are the latest technology which makes procedure very safe and easy as well.


    “Customers do not require to do anything post-treatment; however, touch-ups are recommended to maintain results,” she added. 
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