Snooky Bellomo, co-president of Manic Panic, added that the industry is constantly making strides with innovative new ingredients. Hydrolyzed quinoa protein, shea butter, sunflower, rosemary and sage extract are hot ingredients for hair health.
According to Kate Reid, global design director of Kevin.Murphy and Color.Me, Los Angeles, the industry is also “really focused” on pink being the “it shade” for 2019.
“We love rose to fuchsia,” she told Happi. “New dimensions in blondes creating more metallic pear edges due to new shade innovations hot off the press. Plus, a new pastel peppermint and jade. We also use this shade to eliminate red from the hair when hair has gone too brassy.”
In the mass market, hair color sales slipped slightly at 1.5% to $1.6 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 24, 2019. Women’s hair coloring fell 1.6% to $1.4 billion, while men’s hair coloring dipped 0.9% lower to $204.8 million.
However, new launches are on the way to hopefully boost the at-home hair color segment.
“Consumers are always looking for performance when it comes to hair coloring. The market has shifted over the years, with custom-based colors offered by Madison Reed and E-Salon offering prestige hair coloring products,” said Priyanka Sinha, consultant, Kline & Company, Parsippany, NJ. “Brands such as Good Dye Young and Christophe Robin are at Sephora, offering demi-permanent coloring. Consumers are looking for more natural and custom-made colors offered at reasonable pricing.”
Sales of salon hair-care services grew only 1.8%, according to the new 2018 Professional Salon Industry Haircare Study released by Professional Consultants & Resources. Hair color remained the anchor service and lifeblood of the salon industry with 3% growth, noted Cyrus Bulsara, president, Professional Consultants & Resources.
“The ‘salon suites tsunami’ has driven salon retail to Amazon and other e-commerce platforms, Ulta and mass-retail diversion,” he explained.
In the prestige hair color segment, sales soared 21% to $13.5 million for the 12 months ended February 2019. This is a small part of the total hair category of $731.4 million.
According to Larissa Jensen, beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group, “Smaller hair brands like Madison Reed, dpHue and Good Dye Young are winning the consumer over by highlighting ingredients, forgoing parabens, sulfates, peroxide and ammonia, and promoting that they are vegan and/or cruelty free. This is in line with what is taking place in skin care, where brands that promote clean ingredients and align with consumer values are winning in the market place.”
In the mass market, Clairol is once again establishing itself as the category leader in innovation by introducing a solution that keeps roots looking fresh at every stage of the coloring cycle. Its new Root Touch-Up Color Blending Gel is a semi-permanent formula that is said to be the perfect quick-fix solution for first grays and last-minute roots emergencies that doesn’t need to be reapplied after every wash. It gradually fades after 10 washes, enabling consumers to prolong the time between their coloring sessions.
Clairol’s first ever semi-permanent, reusable color blending gel features a brush-on formula, allowing consumers to spot-treat first grays and color regrowth in 10 minutes, according to the company. The formula requires no mixing and leaves hair soft, shiny and damage-free. It features a twist and lock cap to refresh roots any time or place.
Also new is the Clairol Root Touch-Up Color Refreshing Spray, a fast way to cover up grays while providing natural-looking, water-resistant coverage that lasts until the next shampoo. With an application time of just three seconds, it is perfect for a quick touch-up before leaving the house when you need a last-minute solution. Meanwhile, for on-the-go consumers, Clairol Root-Touch Up Concealing Powder provides precision powder coverage in just 10 seconds. The multi-use solution, which can also be used on brows, covers single strands, refreshes roots and touches up temples and lasts until the next shampoo.
Easy application is great, but ingredients remain at the heart of the color story. New Clairol Natural Instincts is the demi-permanent formula that gives beautiful, natural looking color and radiant shine, according to the company. With 80% naturally-derived ingredients, Clairol bills it as its most gentle at-home color yet, with 37 natural shades. The new formula handles all hair types and textures with care, and it’s the only demi-permanent color with breakthrough allergy gentle molecule ME+.
According to the company, ME+ was specifically developed to reduce the risk of new color allergies and is the result of more than 20 years of research and the screening of hundreds of molecules to find a replacement for the existing hair color dye molecules, PPD (phenylenediamine) and PTD (toluenediamine). Endorsed by dermatologists, ME+ significantly reduces the risk of developing a new allergy without sacrificing the natural-looking color that makes Clairol a color expert.
With coconut oil, aloe vera and a non-drip crème color application, Natural Instincts enhances color and creates brilliant shine in a formula that feels like a conditioning treatment. The gentle formula is ammonia- and paraben-free. Color develops in 20 minutes and gradually fades, lasting 28 washes, so users can always go back to their natural hair color (or try a new one) without seeing that harsh root line, said the company.
Revlon’s latest hair color creation is Root Erase Permanent Root Touch-Up, which is said to give an instant, permanent root touch-up in just five minutes across 13 shades. The formula matches hair shade seamlessly (even salon color) and the dual valve canister allows for both the colorant and developer to be dispensed simultaneously, resulting in an easier, stress-free application experience, said the company. Plus, it’s reusable with up to three root touch-ups per canister.
Wella Professionals’ new Insta Recharge is a powder root concealer that delivers professional salon results from home. According to the company, this product offers the benefits of precision, soft blending and natural feeling with its 4-in-1 solutions: regrowth concealing, highlights extension, optical thickening/filling and eyebrow definition. The exclusive Insta Recharge formula preserves the beauty of one’s color in between regular salon services. This easy–to-use product is an exciting and high-performing way to offer impactful results when concealing grays or regrowth, while maintaining salon-perfected color, according to Wella.
In Living Color
From the office cubicle to techno-clubs, vibrant hair color is everywhere, with women and men flocking to the salon chair to rock the bold looks adopted by celebrities and seen across numerous editorial spreads. Redken answers this growing demand with City Beats, a conditioning color cream designed to create the edgiest looks for the ultimate in color expression. The 12 high vibrancy shades of City Beats are said to unleash the sights and sounds of New York City through professional salon hair color. The collection consists of stay-true hues from bold to pastel shades in a new formula that conditions and seals the hair cuticle for lasting vibrant color and healthy-looking hair. The hair color is a direct-dye that lasts for up to 12 shampoos and can be applied to both natural and previously-colored hair. Each shade has its own story and namesake inspired by the edge and energy of New York City’s iconic landmarks and trendiest neighborhoods like the West Village.
For consumers who want to get blonde hair more quickly, there’s a five-minute option with Joico’s Quick Tone Liqui-Crème Toners. Featuring anti-breakage technology and nourishing exotic oils for maximum shine, this Blonde Life collection of Sand, Silver, Violet and Clear provides gorgeous blonde creations faster than ever before. Ammonia-free formulas leave hair in better condition, even on damaged, color-treated, or bleached locks. The formula also features a fresh fragrance with bergamot, iris and sandalwood.
With ongoing platinum and pastel hair trends, clients are looking more than ever to professionals to recreate these looks. What if it was possible to achieve higher levels of lift while maintaining the integrity of the overall finished look? Salon colorists can lift up to nine levels with new Pure Light Ultra Lightener and Reunite Mending Technology from Pravana. Billed as the highest lifting lightener that’s clinically proven to increase shine and softness of hair, it is formulated with new Reunite Mending Technology that restores hair from the inside out by depositing amino acids, for added internal strength, and plant-derived polymers that mend the cuticle layer. It is ideal for platinum blonde touch-ups and ultra-blonding for hard-to-lift hair.
And, for those who want to tighten up their color precision, get ready—the CHI Color Master is coming! Farouk Systems recently hosted meetings with business partner, LG Household & Healthcare (LG H&H), and its innovation team, at CHI Headquarters. The two are trailblazing new technologies that have been in research for two years and will take the guesswork out of hair color.
The collaboration began with Dr. Farouk Shami wanting to make hair color formulation easier for salons using precision technology to read the natural or tinted hair color. He turned to his partner, LG H&H, to help build a spectroscope that will read the clients’ natural or current hair color then formulate their desired color. Stylists can even show clients what the color will look like on their hair using the CHI Color Master App. The Color Master will have the capability to mix over 18,000 formulations and allows the colorist to further customize with additional additives so hair color possibilities are limitless. Color Master is a result of collaboration that involves more than six companies within LG Group and its affiliates.
“The discussions have been active and advancements have certainly been made,” said Roy Joseph, Farouk Systems’ vice president of research and development. “The tireless efforts from LG H&H’s team will help to drastically push our endeavors forward and accomplish our goals in a timely fashion.”
To take balayage application to the next level, Keune Haircosmetics introduced Ultimate Blonde Freedom Blonde Lifting Powder and dedicated Ultimate Blonde Freedom Blonde Developer. This clay-based lightening system is designed to make balayage and other freehand painting techniques faster and more precise. Its rich, flexible, thick formula is the perfect consistency for applying to the hair without the need for foils,with no bleeding or staining. The dedicated Freedom Blonde Developer contains sticky polymer technology for optimal adhesion. It lightens up to seven levels for a natural result with a subtle, gradient effect. Like all of Keune’s blonding powders, Ultimate Blonde Freedom Blonde features Perfect Lift Technology for precise lightening and maximum protection.
Garnier is continuing its expansion in the hair color sector with the introduction of the brand’s new Virtual Shade Selector tool with Modiface, available online and at select retailers nationwide. During a campaign shoot, Garnier brand ambassador Mandy Moore tested the innovative tool, trying out various hair color shades from the Garnier portfolio, to prepare for her next hair color change.
Grounded in consumer research, Shade Selector helps shoppers online and in stores to find their best hair color match using personalized technology. After a one-minute diagnostic test, and through the integration of best-in-class 3D technology from Modiface, shoppers can virtually try on a vast range of hair colors specifically for them. To ensure an accurate recommendation, the tool takes each user’s current hair color, level of gray, and desired end look into account.
The Virtual Shade Selector with Modiface technology is rolling out to 37 locations at select retailers throughout the year. Walmart piloted the program with 10 locations in January. Walgreens, Wakefern and Meijer launched the tool in-store in select locations in March.
At display screens on-shelf, the virtual education tool encourages shoppers to learn about and test all permanent Garnier Hair Color options, including Nutrisse, Olia and Color Sensation. Shoppers will be prompted to take the one-minute diagnostic test, and through the integration of 3D technology from Modiface, users can virtually try on a range of recommended Garnier shades.
To ensure an accurate recommendation, the tool takes each user’s current hair color, level of gray, and desired end look into account. A barcode scanning option has been incorporated to allow users to engage with the tool outside of what is recommended, so they can try on all Garnier shades available at shelf. Additionally, Beauty Advisors will be onsite at select locations to assist and provide live feedback in Walgreens stores.
“Women in my chair often ask me how they can find the best hair color to suit their personality and skin tone,” said Garnier consulting celebrity hair colorist Nikki Lee, Los Angeles. “Now they can find their perfect hair color with ease if they’re not able to visit a salon, just by using the Shade Selector tool. This is going to give them more power to make the right decision when coloring at home.”
To ensure consumers never suffer another at-home hair dye disaster, Schwarzkopf, a Henkel brand, utilizes Shopkick’s post-scan video and location technology to provide shoppers with a personalized mobile video experience in Walmart stores. Using Shopkick’s post-scan video, shoppers can scan 18 different Color Ultime hair dye products to unlock a short video that provides a clearer idea of what a specific hair dye will look like and whether it is the right color for their needs. They are rewarded with “kicks” (Shopkick’s rewards currency) for interacting with the products, while also helping increase visibility and drive purchase consideration for Color Ultime on a crowded shelf.
As one of the most engaging shopping rewards app with an industry-leading 94% average video completion rate, Shopkick’s video offerings help marketers incentivize and engage shoppers across the entire shopping journey—wherever, whenever and however they shop. The Henkel campaign not only allows users the opportunity to make more informed shopping decisions, but helps the company build brand equity and communicate key product benefits at the very moment of purchase decision resulting in a 96% post-scan video completion rate and a 2.1:1 ROI, said the company.
Finally, for those who just want to play with hair color with a spray, Eva NYC has launched Chameleon Color Sprays. Add a pop of color with these temporary color products sold at Target.
According to the company, the sprays are buildable and brushable for ultimate customization and ease without buildup or that crunchy, sticky feel. Infused with Keravis Protein Complex and argan oil, this formula instantly delivers optimal anti-breakage benefits and commitment-free color, according to Eva NYC.
The Future Is Now
Hair color options show no signs of fading. According to Tish Bellomo, of Manic Panic, “Those who love vivid hair have realized there’s really no need to stick to one color the way those who prefer natural shades tend to do. Whether it’s a monochromatic balayage of reds, or a totally rainbow streaked coif, consumers are truly coloring outside of the lines with an array of contrasting or complementary colors.”
Reid of Kevin.Murphy added that maintaining hair wellness while also adding color is crucial for product development in the upcoming year. She explained, “We are now in development of some serious innovations set to launch late 2019 and into 2020, less damage on hair while performing. Lighteners are hitting a new level of blonde plus less damage and this is creating a new spectrum of shades and possibilities.”
Proving, that when it comes to hair color, the possibilities are endless.