Christine Esposito, Associate Editor12.02.19
Back in the day, hair care was all about keeping strands clean and coiffed. Today, “cared for” is a must as consumers expect all of their products to work in tandem to deliver healthy, great looking locks that stay in place. And yes, clean still matters—but in 2019, that means clean ingredients. Consumers are shunning long INCI lists and select materials (parabens and sulfates, especially) and welcoming brands that tread lightly on the pate and planet.
It makes for a category that is under constant pressure to do more with less, so to speak.
But hair care brands are responding, according to professionals who work closely with these products on a daily basis.
“I really have to say that I appreciate that major manufacturers of hair care products are being mindful of how the consumers have evolved,” said Ron Lopez, a L’Oréal Professional artist and owner of El Salon in Denver, CO. “When technology from established brands like L’Oréal Professionnel are able to invest time and money into those needs, we all win.”
Lopez told Happi that in his travels across the country to educate salon owners and stylists, he’s noticed that streamlined options and mindful practices in production matter more and more all the time.
“Consumers, along with hairstylists, really care about what they are purchasing. Sulfate-free, silicone-free, and paraben-free, are attributes that people are looking for in their shampoos and conditioners,” he said. When products are in the manufacturing process, water consumption and how waste is managed is super important to people when they are making their decision to buy.”
According to Lopez, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Source cleansing and treatment line gives stylists what consumers are looking for, all in one range.
“They are all paraben-, silicon- and sulfate-free. They use less water during manufacturing compared to traditional shampoos and conditioners. The best part is the highly recyclable bottles can be refilled at the salon for a lower cost after the initial purchase.”
Companies targeting the professional market are constantly pushing their R&D teams to meet consumer needs. Yet, the salon category has been somewhat stagnant. Topline revenues for all salon industry services (hair, skin and nail) plus salon retail grew 1.8% to $64.3 billion according to the 2018 Professional Salon Industry Hair Care study released earlier this year by Professional Consultants & Resources (PCR). According to the Dallas-based consultancy, styling products sales grew in the low single digits and sales of shampoos/conditioners grew at very low single digits. One bright spot, however, according to PCR was specialty products, including oils and products designed for thinning, hair loss, shine and thermal protection, which fared better in 2018 with mid-single digit growth.
In the mass market, shampoo sales rose 2.0% to $3.23 billion and conditioner sales rose 1.7% to $2.24 billion for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 6, 2019, according to Information Resources, Inc (IRI). Hair growth products sold at mass market venues tracked by IRI fell 4.2% to $112.7 million, and hair spray sales declined 2.2% to $654.7 million.
New Competition
Slower growth hasn’t deterred new brands from entering the category—in fact, it could very well be perfect timing for entrepreneurs who believe they have what consumers lack in their hair care regimen.
These new players range from one-woman startups like Lacy Messinger’s Lace Luxury Haircare, which was at Indie Beauty Expo with its lone SKU (a blow dry primer), to beauty industry veteran Andy Rah, founder and CEO of Sauce Beauty, which creates hair care products inspired by recipes from kitchens around the world.
Sauce Beauty—which touts products such as Island Marinade Moisturizing Shampoo, Tzatziki Taming Spray Leave-in Conditioner and Detangler, EVOO Intensive Repair Oil Treatment and Chimichurri Mint Tingle Intensive Repair Shampoo—had been exclusive to Sally Beauty since its 2018 launch, but is expanding into new retail outlets, including Wegmans.
“We are very proud to be partnering with them to take Sauce Beauty into the grocery channel, where we feel that Sauce Beauty makes such a great fit, with our food inspired beauty products,” Rah told Happi. “One of the Wegmans’ mantras is ‘Helping you live a healthier, better life through food.’ Our tagline is ‘Healthy ingredients for Happy Hair.’ So, this partnership just makes sense down to our core values.”
While the formulations come across as quirky, they perform, according to Rah.
“What we believe in at Sauce Beauty is having each formula being specifically created to maximize the performance of the product while being as clean as possible. In hair care, being 100% natural doesn’t make a product more efficacious. Our main priority is that products perform at their best and do not contain ingredients that are harmful to a person’s health. Of course, some people have specific preferences or allergies that make them have a longer list of ingredients they don’t want in their beauty products, and that is always their prerogative. To this end, we came up with the term TransHairency. We list every ingredient of every one of our products on our website and have a clear definition of what it’s used for in our products,” he said.
In addition, Sauce Beauty enables consumers to search for products based on specific ingredients or concerns like “gluten intolerant” or “have celiac” by filtering out any products on our website that contain gluten, said Rah.
If Sauce Beauty seems like its checking off all the right boxes to succeed, that’s because Rah’s far from a novice.
“I’ve been very fortunate in that I’ve worked for amazing beauty companies that sold in varying channels. I really learned a lot from all of my prior work experiences. But from the salon channel specifically, I really learned a lot about creating high end, efficacious formulas and beautiful fragrances. Without disclosing specific brands or products that I worked on, I can say that all of my formulas are developed and manufactured by the same partners that I used in my prior roles, leading marketing for salon and prestige hair care brands. You’ll find that the formulations and high end fragrances that we use are just as good as products that sell for 4X as much as Sauce Beauty. Similarly, our labels and bottles are manufactured by partners that I have worked with in my past life. If you pick up a Sauce Beauty bottle, you’ll see that it is totally custom made, unlike many mass retail brands that use stock packaging,” Rah told Happi.
Sauce Beauty has been resonating with teens through Millennials, which “came as a bit of surprise,” said Rah. “But what we are finding is that the younger consumer seems to be more in tune and willing to dive into the food + beauty trend that we’re seeing across all of the beauty categories now.”
Sauce Beauty’s roster will be expanded in 2020 with products that Rah described as “hyper clean” which, like its current range, will be sulfate-free and paraben-free as well as free of phthalates, petrolatum, silicone, salt, alcohol, mineral oil, MIT and CMIT.
Another rising newcomer is Virtue Labs, a Raleigh, NC-based company that has racked up a host of honors since its launch in 2017, including Allure Magazine’s Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award—not too shabby for a brand that didn’t set out as a hair care company.
“As we like to say, the world didn’t need another hair care company, so we created a biotech company to repair damaged hair, and the technology we use was never intended for use on hair care at all,” Melisse Shaban, founder and CEO told Happi.
That technology is Alpha Keratin 60ku, a patented form of a human keratin protein that was developed in the study of regenerative medicine to help severely wounded soldiers—with beneficial applications for bone, tissue, and nerve regeneration.
“By chance, it was also found to have enormous benefit for repairing hair,” said Shaban.
Instead of keratins from “highly-processed animal by-product, this is a unique protein that is derived from human hair, and carefully extracted to remain whole and fully functional. Because it is essentially hair, it ‘sees’ cracks of damage, and goes where it’s needed to repave and heal the damage, giving you your best hair possible. It is the key ingredient in every Virtue product, and it’s exclusive to Virtue,” she said.
According to Virtue, Alpha Keratin 60ku works like a “smart technology” going only where it’s needed to fill cracks of damage in the hair shaft, and rinsing off where it isn’t needed.
“It’s rare to have real technology inside a rinse-off product, and it makes Virtue shampoos and conditioners truly unique,” Shaban said. “The technology is also inside every product in the line, delivering cumulative hair health benefits in each format. I like to call our styling products ‘treatment stylers,’ because the Alpha Keratin protein is delivering strength and health benefits with each use.”
Virtue ColorKick professional color (which garnered the Allure award) is formulated with a different version of its hero technology; Alpha Keratin 60ku Reactive is a freeze-dried, powder form of the protein that activates when it hits the bleach or color in the bowl and refills the protein that is typically eroded in the coloring process.
“The Allure Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award for our ColorKick professional color additive is a testament to the power of this unique technology, and will help open the doors to many more professional colorists and stylists who will want to see the benefits for their own color clients,” said Shaban.
“I honestly believe we have just scratched the surface of what this protein can do, and we’re learning more about it every day,” she told Happi. “As we continue to develop the brand, we will only go where this technology leads us. We’ve identified different versions of the protein, and our technology will always be our point of difference. For the future, I can tell you that we’re seeing incredible results in our exploration with regard to hair growth, and maybe even nail care at some point, so stay tuned.”
Head Cases
Growth and loss are big issues in hair care, and brands are formulating products that help by taking better care of the scalp.
“Hair loss comes with age and a variety of other factors including stress, hormonal changes, lifestyle choices, poor nutrition, and product buildup and debris, to name a few. All of these things affect the scalp’s ability to produce healthy growth cycles. Your best defense is to start at the root of the problem—no pun intended—scalp health,” said industry veteran Jim Markham, CEO/founder of ColorProof.
According to Markham, a stimulated, nourished scalp “treated with the right formulas and proper scalp regimen can allow hair to flourish. As an extension of the skin, sensitive scalps cannot tolerate harsh chemicals, fragrance and detergents found in most shampoos. ColorProof, he contends, always keeps scalp health in mind, including new SuperSheer Clean Shampoo and Conditioner and the new Scalp Cleansing Brush.
“An essential part of scalp care is avoiding irritating the scalp. If ingredients deposited onto the scalp cause irritation, flakiness, buildup or blockage, they can hinder the growth cycle and damage hair. When we innovate new formulations at ColorProof, it is a priority that we are at the forefront of creating clean formulas using all of the good and none of the bad. With SuperSheer, in particular, we took a less is more approach, leaving out anything that could potentially irritate the skin and scalp, such as fragrance, allergens, silicones, sulfates and salts,” he said.
The formulas, Markham insisted, are effective while preserving the scalp and decreasing irritation, so hair has a chance to flourish naturally. According to Markham, the key is keeping the scalp from becoming irritated, preventing buildup on and in the follicle, and avoiding harsh ingredients that damage strands and skin.
“With SuperSheer we chose natural bioactives, such as blue lotus flower and edelweiss, that are the very best for your hair with zero tradeoffs. Our proprietary ingredient blend delivers featherlight, super clean, airy results while avoiding harsh chemicals and maximizing color retention,” he said.
The formulations, which have no silicones or fragrance and are 100% vegan, are also certified hypoallergenic—an industry first for professional hair care, according to Markham. He insists this gives the brand an opportunity to reach an entirely new demographic of consumers—those who suffer from allergies, have medical conditions, or super sensitive skin and scalp. (For more on Markham and his incredible career, click here.)
Also addressing scalp care is Seed Phytonutrients. The scalp is considered to be the most absorbent part of the body; in fact, the scalp and forehead are actually four times more absorbent than forearm skin, according to the naturals brand, which just launched Scalp & Roots Oat Mask ($28), a dual benefit 2-in-1 clarifying shampoo and detox mask treatment. For mild to moderate buildup, it can be used as a deep cleansing shampoo; for detoxifying treatment, it should be applied to targeted buildup areas on damp or dry hair for 3–5 minutes. Key ingredients include oats that remove hard water minerals and pollutants while gently ridding the scalp of excess oil buildup; tagua seed powder and jojoba esters that gently exfoliate product buildup; and carrot seed oil which has vitamin B to rebalance and moisturize the scalp while providing antioxidant protection for hair.
According to Zoe Hyams, VP-marketing at Keratin Complex, even today’s edgier looks need a foundation of healthy hair, and as such, the brand has rolled out Keratin Complex Style, a line of nine styling products formulated with proprietary keratin, antioxidants and UV protectants.
According to the brand, Keratin Complex Style aligns to the entire Keratin Complex treatment portfolio and is also designed to work synergistically with all Keratin Complex products.
“The introduction of Keratin Complex Style not only completes our keratin-enhanced portfolio but also elevates our salon offerings and the customer’s experience. We are truly now a customizable, full-service company with best-in-class keratin smoothing treatments, keratin-enhanced color line, a full aftercare line and now styling. Keratin Complex Style completes a 360-degree healthy hair regimen from treatment all the way through to style,” said Hyams in a statement.
The full range includes firm hold and flex hold hairsprays, volumizing foam, texturizing spray, strong hold gel, styling lotion, molding paste, styling gel and shine spray.
When it comes to style, thicker hair is preferred. This Fall, Redken expanded its Redken Brews Men’s range with a trio of products designed to provide the appearance of thicker, fuller hair: a shampoo that gently cleanses while stimulating and nourishing the scalp and strengthening hair fiber to prevent breakage; a pomade that creates instant volume and definition with mild control; and a spray that creates the look and feel of thicker, denser hair by increasing the diameter of each hair strand.
Additionally, consumers love multi-tasking products, and Joon Haircare’s Saffron Hair Elixir Oil, a 10-in-1 hair oil, found many fans who turn to the formulation for a variety of uses.
“I have heard countless times—from people with many different hair types—that the Elixir works to detangle, defrizz and moisturize hair without weighing it down,” said co-founder Shiva Tavakoli, who noted that the development of the oil stemmed from her own necessity. “We created a lightweight formula with a balanced blend of ingredients that we worked on for years prior to coming to market. A combination of culture and years of family recipes and hair fixes, along with the help of science, the Elixir was born out of my own need for a multi-use, efficacious treatment and styler.”
Joon is prepping to expand by riffing on ingredients found in its signature SKU. Saffron Rose Shampoo and Saffron Rose Conditioner are due out in 2020, Tavakoli told Happi.
In addition to key ingredients like saffron, turmeric and pomegranate, which nourish, strengthen and restore hair elasticity, the new formulations will contain pistachio and rose to hydrate and smooth the hair strands as well as a proprietary blend of proteins, panthenol, vitamin E and ginger to add shine and repair damage from environmental pollutants and styling tools.
“With the launch of Saffron Rose Shampoo and Saffron Rose Conditioner, our range will expand to show the efficacious properties of our formulations and place in the hair space. We remain true to the origins of Joon by using ingredients, family recipes, and an aesthetic of beauty all which have originated from our grandmother and our Persian culture. We find this position and development to be how we stand apart,” she concluded.
New Alliances
A well-known retail hair care shop, Sally Beauty is set to release its first influencer collaboration in hair care with social media personality Monica Stevens. The MoKnowsHair line has been designed to “care for curly hair and correct damaging practices”—key issues for Stevens, who is a stylist and salon owner. The line, which retails between $9.99 and $11.99, is formulated with Abyssinian oil, aloe vera and hydrolyzed proteins to moisturize, restore and protect textured hair. Products include options such as Scalp + Curl Clarifier, a pre-shampoo treatment that removes pollutants and product build-up, Sulfate-Free Gentle Moisturizing Cleanser, and a Curl Smoothing Pudding and more.
Products designed to address curly hair needs are a huge market, and big players in the category are taking note of indies that have been successfully addressing the needs of this consumer base. In fact, right as this issue was heading to press, Henkel announced its acquisition of Deva Parent Holdings, Inc., owner of DevaCurl, from Ares Management Corporation. Founded in 1994, DevaCurl’s range includes cleansers, conditioners, styling products, styling accessories and treatments available in US salons, selective retailers (Ulta and Sephora) as well as through direct-to-consumer and ecommerce platforms. According to estimates, DevaCurl will finish the year with approximately $100 million in revenues, mainly from the US market.
“This acquisition is part of our strategy to expand our position in attractive and fast-growing markets and categories. It will complement and further strengthen our hair professional business,” Henkel CEO Hans Van Bylen said in a statement when the deal was announced in mid-November.
Another alliance in hair care was announced in October as Farouk Systems, Inc. and its partner LG Household & Health Care rolled out a co-created hair care line called Avon CHI Essentials. (LG H&H acquired New Avon Company in April 2019). The four-product collection will be sold through avon.com and Avon’s direct sales program in the US and Canada. All products are more than 90% natural and contain a blend of nutrient- and antioxidant-rich ingredients such as aloe vera, which is organically grown by Farouk Systems, Inc. in Houston.
Innovation, indies and new alliances are aimed at meeting needs of today’s consumers and stylists who demand style and substance.
“Hair tends are going to be moving to more of a ‘dressed’ look while keeping in mind that effortless will always be chic,” predicted L’Oréal Professionnel artist and salon owner Lopez. “Using the correct cleansing and treatment lines will be the backbone to these looks.”
Looking for ingredients for your next hair care launch? A list of new materials from industry suppliers begins below
Hair Care Ingredients
Below is a list of new ingredients for hair care products recently introduced by industry suppliers. For more information on the materials listed, please contact the companies directly using the information provided.
Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America, Inc.
Tel: 919-233-2367
Email: spc_marketing@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajiaminobeauty.com
AMISAFE LL-DS-22
INCI: Disodium sebacoyl bis-lauramidolysine, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment
Use levels: 0.1-0.5%
Attributes: Amisafe LL-DS-22 is an amino acid-based texture modifier. It is a water soluble active. It acts as a foam booster and imparts silky smoothness to hair. It helps reduce the hair drying time by 30% and hence helps prevent hair damage caused by hair dryers.
PRODEX 500
INCI: Sodium PCA, sodium lactate, arginine, aspartic acid, PCA, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine, phenylalanine, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment.
Use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Attributes: Prodew 500 is a paraben-free amino acid blend that has excellent properties for hair care formulations. It is formulated to mimic the hair’s CMC and brings benefits such as moisturizing, strengthening, color-protection and repair of hair surface damage.
AMISAFE LMA-60
INCI: Hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl/myristyl ether HCl, alcohol, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment.
Use levels: 0.5-3.0%
Attributes: Amisafe LMA-60 is an amphoteric hair conditioning active derived from L-arginine. Amisafe LMA-60 exhibits high degree of biodegradability, is environmentally friendly and mild. It has excellent moisturizing and hair color protection properties. It makes hair smooth while improving the strength of damaged hair. It suppresses static and improves the manageability of hair.
BASF Care Creations
Tel: 800-962-7831
Email: beautycare-na@basf.com
Website: http://www.carecreations.basf.us/
RAMBUVITAL
INCI: Maltodextrin (and) nephelium lappaceum (seed) extract
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, treatment
Use levels: 0.1%
Attributes: An extract from the rambutan fruit seeds, protects scalp and hair follicle from impact of urban pollution which causes sebum oxidation that leads to malodor. (Clinical study: 82% odor repellent). Additionally, in vivo, the scalp was significantly more hydrated within one month (+31% vs placebo) and hair appeared and felt visibly healthier and shinier.
Brenntag Specialties
Tel: 800-732-0562
Email: personalcare@brenntag.com
Website: www.brenntagpersonalcare.com
KOSTOL TMC-25
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and treatments
Use levels: 2-6%
Attributes: Kostol TMC-25 is a sulfate-free conditioning emulsifier that provides excellent deposition and anti-static properties. This multifunctional emulsifier is manufactured in the US by Koster Keunen without isopropyl alcohol.
PROCATALINE G2 BIOFUNCTIONAL
INCI: (proposed) Water (and) glycerin (and) Pisum sativum (pea) extract (and) Salvia hispanica seed extract
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 1%
Attributes: Procataline G2 biofunctional is an innovative botanical extract designed to help protect the hair and scalp from environmental stress. This biofunctional is rich in peptides, amino acids, polysaccharides, polyphenols and mineral which provide hair detoxifying, scalp purifying and soothing properties.
BELSIL PF 200
INCI: PEG/PPG-20/20 phenylisopropyl caprylyl dimethicone
Applications Shampoo, conditioner and treatment
Use levels: 1-20%
Attributes: Belsil PF 200 is a unique, multifunctional phenyl-modified dimethicone that is easily incorporated into aqueous formulations while maintaining clarity. In hair care applications, Belsil PF 200 imparts a high degree of shine, improved combability, and a soft, silky feel.
Chemyunion
Tel: 732-529-0964
Email: contact@chemyunion.com
Website: www.chemyunion.com
SENSOVEIL SOFT
INCI: EthylLinoleate (and) ethyl oleate (and) Crambe abyssinica seed oil(and) Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil (and) Persea gratissima (avocado) oil.
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, ampoules, leave-on and male products.
Use levels: Shampoo: 0.1 to 0.5% (w/w), conditioner, hair mask, ampoules, leave-on and male products: 1 to 2% (w/w)
Attributes: Sensoveil Soft is aligned to green trends, high performance and proven efficacy, acting as a lipid replacement on hair fibers. It improves the texture of the formulation in the hair and its combability, reducing frizz. Film -former without buildup.
THERMOSHIELD PREMIUM
INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) Salvia hispanica seed extract (and) Trehalose (and) xylitol (and) caprylyl/capryl glucoside (and) ethyl linoleate (and) ethyl oleate (and) sorbitan oleate (and) Polyquaternium-37 (and) sodium phosphate
Applications: Leave-on and finishing products
Use levels: 2% (w/w)
Attributes: ThermoShield Premium is a heat protection which retains water inside the hair fiber, forming a protective film through a technological mechanism. It protects the hair from thermal damages without compromising styling. Promotes shine, softness and anti-frizz effect. Alternative to silicone heat protectants.
Croda Inc
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-USA@croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
PROSINA
INCI: Aqua (and) hydrolyzed keratin
Applications: Leave-on and rinse-off hair conditioners, hair treatments
Attributes: A unique hydrolyzed keratin with unusually high cystine content, ideal for use in hair care formulations. Created using a proprietary manufacturing process that keeps cystine in its active S-SO3 form, ProSina increases the strength of hair during the regrowth process and helps replenish proteins that are easily lost from relaxed African hair with matching peptides.
Dow
Email: liv.schneideraffeld@Dow.com
Website: https://www.dow.com/en-us/market/mkt-beauty-personal-care.html
MAIZECARE STYLE POLYMER
INCI: Hydrolyzed corn starch
Applications: Styling gel, cream, wax, water spray
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Attributes: It’s a little corny, but the transformative bio-based style performance of this non-GMO ingredient speaks for itself. Dow’s new MaizeCare Style Polymer, derived from cornstarch, meets demands for natural products with an outstanding range of styling benefits like curl retention, frizz control and improved style durability with virtually no flaking.
DSM Personal Care
Tel: 973-257-8222
Email: Info.pc-na@dsm.com
Website: www.dsm.com/personal-care
TILAMAR BOOST 150
INCI: Polyquaternium-110
Applications: Volumizing shampoos and conditioners
Use levels: 1–3%
Attributes: Visible hair volume increase (>100%) when used alone or in synergy with other common conditioning agents. A new-to-the-world hair care technology that invisibly transforms upon drying to create volume without sacrificing conditioning, a key advantage compared to common volumizing methods.
Evonik Corporation
Tel: 804-727-0700
Email: PCSampling@evonik.com
Website: evonik.com/personalcare
HIRFLUX
INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil; Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil; Ceramide NG
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 1%
Attributes: Hair damage repair and scalp improvement through a bio-inspired solution that leverages the power of ceramides
ABILQuat 3676
INCI: Quaternium-80 (and) Dipropylene Glycol
Applications: Conditioner
Use levels: 0.2% – 2.0%
Attributes: A high molecular weight, highly substantive silicone quat able to provide intense hair conditioning and gloss, while being easy to formulate in emulsion-type conditioners, conditioning rinses, and hair masks
Hallstar
Tel: 877-427-4255
Email: BeautyCS@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstarbeauty.com
SENSOLENE LIGHT ET
INCI: Ethyl olivate, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and treatment
Use levels: 0.5–5%
Attributes: Superior emolliency with antioxidant benefits. Derived sustainably from olive leaves and olive oil. Unique dry, light, silicone-like feel. Substantiated hair shine claims due to high refractive index. 100% natural origin, COSMOS-approved, globally-compliant (including China), alternative to silicones
Inolex
Tel: 215 271 0800
Email: info@inolex.com
Website: www.inolex.com
AMINOSENSYL HC
INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassicyl valinate esylate
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and treatment
Use levels: typically 6.0–15.0% as received
Attributes: AminoSensyl HC from Inolex is a 100% natural, quat-free hair care system for strengthening, smoothing/anti-frizz, defining curls, and conditioning hair. Its ecofriendly design provides a readily biodegradable cationic system that is safe and gentle to humans and the planet.
Jeen International
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
OLEOSIL NATURALLY-DERVIVED SILICONE ELASTOMER GELS
INCI: various
Applications: Conditioners, treatment, Styling products
Use levels: 0.5–25.0%
Attributes: OleoSil products are naturally-derived silicone elastomer gels utilizing Jeechem NDA alkanes for an array of functional end products differentiated by sensorial end feel. OleoSil gels produce an array of functional end products differentiated by sensorial feel, chemical function, and versatile end use.
JEECHEM NDA ALKANES
INCI: various
Applications: Colorants, masks, pomades, sculpting/styling products, shampoos, conditioners, rinses
Use levels: 0.5–90.0%
Attributes: Jeechem NDA alkanes can be used in place of silicone oils contributing emolliency, shine, and transient conditioning in shampoos, conditioners and rinses. Jeechem NDA alkanes also act as co-dispersants and solvents in hair colorants, hair masks, pomades and sculpting products.
Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
CARBOPOL STYLE 2.0
INCI: Carbomer
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 0.5–2%
Attributes: Carbopol Style 2.0 is a rheology modifier with inherent boosting properties that provide a stronger hold in wet styling applications. A crosslinked polyacrylic acid polymer, it is available in white powder form for great flexibility and compatibility with fixatives, humectants and fragrances.
FIXATE RENEW
Applications: Treatment
Attributes: Fixate Renew safely enables long-lasting hair manageability, care and style benefits, lasting for more than 10 shampoo washes. After applying to hair, it is activated with heat using a typical flat ironing technique, modifying the hair fiber for improved manageability.
SEASCALP BIOMARINE INGREDIENT
INCI: Water (Aqua), Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, sodium salicylate
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 3%
Attributes: Seascalp biomarine ingredient is a natural biotechnological ingredient intended to minimize the accumulation of sebaceous lipids and strengthens the skin barrier function. It helps provide a healthy scalp with less itchiness, greasiness and flakes for up to two weeks.
Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Tel: 81-72-987-2626
Email: sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
Website: www.seiwakasei.jp/en/
VEGETAMIDE 18MEA-NJ
INCI: Cetearamidoethyldiethonium succinoyl hydrolyzed pea protein, glycerin, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hHair treatment, hair mist
Use levels: 1.0–5.0%
Attributes: Vegetamide is plant derived liquid cuticle which is alternative to silicone. It has a similar structure to F-Layer (containing 18-MEA), which is the structure of hair cuticles. Damaged hair surface can be restored to a healthy state with excellent texture.
PROMOIS WJ-SP
INCI: Hydrolyzed pea protein
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hair treatment, hair mist
Use levels: 0.4–1.0%
Attributes: Promois WJ-SP is a hydrolyzed pea protein called “botanical keratin.” Because its amino acid composition is similar to that of hydrolyzed keratin, the function is also similar. Promois WJ-SP has been approved by Ecocert and Cosmos.
AMINOREACT TSV
INCI: Sodium tosyl valinate, butylene glycol, water
Applications: Hair treatment, hair mist, shampoo, conditioner
Use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Attributes: Aminoreact TsV is an ingredient specifically developed for providing the hair elasticity. It acts on the β layer in the cell membrane complex that has decreased due to aging, providing the hair elasticity, restoring hair youthfulness and improving volume.
Silab
Tel: +33 555 84 58 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
FILMEXEL
INCI: Kappaphycus alvarezii extract and Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 0.05%–1%
Attributes: Filmexel is a natural biopolymer forming a protective film on the hair. It protects the fiber from damage caused by bleaching treatment and outdoor pollution. It improves the shine of hair when exposed to repeated chemical and thermal aggressions.
It makes for a category that is under constant pressure to do more with less, so to speak.
But hair care brands are responding, according to professionals who work closely with these products on a daily basis.
“I really have to say that I appreciate that major manufacturers of hair care products are being mindful of how the consumers have evolved,” said Ron Lopez, a L’Oréal Professional artist and owner of El Salon in Denver, CO. “When technology from established brands like L’Oréal Professionnel are able to invest time and money into those needs, we all win.”
Lopez told Happi that in his travels across the country to educate salon owners and stylists, he’s noticed that streamlined options and mindful practices in production matter more and more all the time.
“Consumers, along with hairstylists, really care about what they are purchasing. Sulfate-free, silicone-free, and paraben-free, are attributes that people are looking for in their shampoos and conditioners,” he said. When products are in the manufacturing process, water consumption and how waste is managed is super important to people when they are making their decision to buy.”
According to Lopez, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Source cleansing and treatment line gives stylists what consumers are looking for, all in one range.
“They are all paraben-, silicon- and sulfate-free. They use less water during manufacturing compared to traditional shampoos and conditioners. The best part is the highly recyclable bottles can be refilled at the salon for a lower cost after the initial purchase.”
Companies targeting the professional market are constantly pushing their R&D teams to meet consumer needs. Yet, the salon category has been somewhat stagnant. Topline revenues for all salon industry services (hair, skin and nail) plus salon retail grew 1.8% to $64.3 billion according to the 2018 Professional Salon Industry Hair Care study released earlier this year by Professional Consultants & Resources (PCR). According to the Dallas-based consultancy, styling products sales grew in the low single digits and sales of shampoos/conditioners grew at very low single digits. One bright spot, however, according to PCR was specialty products, including oils and products designed for thinning, hair loss, shine and thermal protection, which fared better in 2018 with mid-single digit growth.
In the mass market, shampoo sales rose 2.0% to $3.23 billion and conditioner sales rose 1.7% to $2.24 billion for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 6, 2019, according to Information Resources, Inc (IRI). Hair growth products sold at mass market venues tracked by IRI fell 4.2% to $112.7 million, and hair spray sales declined 2.2% to $654.7 million.
New Competition
Slower growth hasn’t deterred new brands from entering the category—in fact, it could very well be perfect timing for entrepreneurs who believe they have what consumers lack in their hair care regimen.
These new players range from one-woman startups like Lacy Messinger’s Lace Luxury Haircare, which was at Indie Beauty Expo with its lone SKU (a blow dry primer), to beauty industry veteran Andy Rah, founder and CEO of Sauce Beauty, which creates hair care products inspired by recipes from kitchens around the world.
Sauce Beauty—which touts products such as Island Marinade Moisturizing Shampoo, Tzatziki Taming Spray Leave-in Conditioner and Detangler, EVOO Intensive Repair Oil Treatment and Chimichurri Mint Tingle Intensive Repair Shampoo—had been exclusive to Sally Beauty since its 2018 launch, but is expanding into new retail outlets, including Wegmans.
“We are very proud to be partnering with them to take Sauce Beauty into the grocery channel, where we feel that Sauce Beauty makes such a great fit, with our food inspired beauty products,” Rah told Happi. “One of the Wegmans’ mantras is ‘Helping you live a healthier, better life through food.’ Our tagline is ‘Healthy ingredients for Happy Hair.’ So, this partnership just makes sense down to our core values.”
While the formulations come across as quirky, they perform, according to Rah.
“What we believe in at Sauce Beauty is having each formula being specifically created to maximize the performance of the product while being as clean as possible. In hair care, being 100% natural doesn’t make a product more efficacious. Our main priority is that products perform at their best and do not contain ingredients that are harmful to a person’s health. Of course, some people have specific preferences or allergies that make them have a longer list of ingredients they don’t want in their beauty products, and that is always their prerogative. To this end, we came up with the term TransHairency. We list every ingredient of every one of our products on our website and have a clear definition of what it’s used for in our products,” he said.
In addition, Sauce Beauty enables consumers to search for products based on specific ingredients or concerns like “gluten intolerant” or “have celiac” by filtering out any products on our website that contain gluten, said Rah.
If Sauce Beauty seems like its checking off all the right boxes to succeed, that’s because Rah’s far from a novice.
“I’ve been very fortunate in that I’ve worked for amazing beauty companies that sold in varying channels. I really learned a lot from all of my prior work experiences. But from the salon channel specifically, I really learned a lot about creating high end, efficacious formulas and beautiful fragrances. Without disclosing specific brands or products that I worked on, I can say that all of my formulas are developed and manufactured by the same partners that I used in my prior roles, leading marketing for salon and prestige hair care brands. You’ll find that the formulations and high end fragrances that we use are just as good as products that sell for 4X as much as Sauce Beauty. Similarly, our labels and bottles are manufactured by partners that I have worked with in my past life. If you pick up a Sauce Beauty bottle, you’ll see that it is totally custom made, unlike many mass retail brands that use stock packaging,” Rah told Happi.
Sauce Beauty has been resonating with teens through Millennials, which “came as a bit of surprise,” said Rah. “But what we are finding is that the younger consumer seems to be more in tune and willing to dive into the food + beauty trend that we’re seeing across all of the beauty categories now.”
Sauce Beauty’s roster will be expanded in 2020 with products that Rah described as “hyper clean” which, like its current range, will be sulfate-free and paraben-free as well as free of phthalates, petrolatum, silicone, salt, alcohol, mineral oil, MIT and CMIT.
Another rising newcomer is Virtue Labs, a Raleigh, NC-based company that has racked up a host of honors since its launch in 2017, including Allure Magazine’s Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award—not too shabby for a brand that didn’t set out as a hair care company.
“As we like to say, the world didn’t need another hair care company, so we created a biotech company to repair damaged hair, and the technology we use was never intended for use on hair care at all,” Melisse Shaban, founder and CEO told Happi.
That technology is Alpha Keratin 60ku, a patented form of a human keratin protein that was developed in the study of regenerative medicine to help severely wounded soldiers—with beneficial applications for bone, tissue, and nerve regeneration.
“By chance, it was also found to have enormous benefit for repairing hair,” said Shaban.
Instead of keratins from “highly-processed animal by-product, this is a unique protein that is derived from human hair, and carefully extracted to remain whole and fully functional. Because it is essentially hair, it ‘sees’ cracks of damage, and goes where it’s needed to repave and heal the damage, giving you your best hair possible. It is the key ingredient in every Virtue product, and it’s exclusive to Virtue,” she said.
According to Virtue, Alpha Keratin 60ku works like a “smart technology” going only where it’s needed to fill cracks of damage in the hair shaft, and rinsing off where it isn’t needed.
“It’s rare to have real technology inside a rinse-off product, and it makes Virtue shampoos and conditioners truly unique,” Shaban said. “The technology is also inside every product in the line, delivering cumulative hair health benefits in each format. I like to call our styling products ‘treatment stylers,’ because the Alpha Keratin protein is delivering strength and health benefits with each use.”
Virtue ColorKick professional color (which garnered the Allure award) is formulated with a different version of its hero technology; Alpha Keratin 60ku Reactive is a freeze-dried, powder form of the protein that activates when it hits the bleach or color in the bowl and refills the protein that is typically eroded in the coloring process.
“The Allure Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award for our ColorKick professional color additive is a testament to the power of this unique technology, and will help open the doors to many more professional colorists and stylists who will want to see the benefits for their own color clients,” said Shaban.
“I honestly believe we have just scratched the surface of what this protein can do, and we’re learning more about it every day,” she told Happi. “As we continue to develop the brand, we will only go where this technology leads us. We’ve identified different versions of the protein, and our technology will always be our point of difference. For the future, I can tell you that we’re seeing incredible results in our exploration with regard to hair growth, and maybe even nail care at some point, so stay tuned.”
Head Cases
Growth and loss are big issues in hair care, and brands are formulating products that help by taking better care of the scalp.
“Hair loss comes with age and a variety of other factors including stress, hormonal changes, lifestyle choices, poor nutrition, and product buildup and debris, to name a few. All of these things affect the scalp’s ability to produce healthy growth cycles. Your best defense is to start at the root of the problem—no pun intended—scalp health,” said industry veteran Jim Markham, CEO/founder of ColorProof.
According to Markham, a stimulated, nourished scalp “treated with the right formulas and proper scalp regimen can allow hair to flourish. As an extension of the skin, sensitive scalps cannot tolerate harsh chemicals, fragrance and detergents found in most shampoos. ColorProof, he contends, always keeps scalp health in mind, including new SuperSheer Clean Shampoo and Conditioner and the new Scalp Cleansing Brush.
“An essential part of scalp care is avoiding irritating the scalp. If ingredients deposited onto the scalp cause irritation, flakiness, buildup or blockage, they can hinder the growth cycle and damage hair. When we innovate new formulations at ColorProof, it is a priority that we are at the forefront of creating clean formulas using all of the good and none of the bad. With SuperSheer, in particular, we took a less is more approach, leaving out anything that could potentially irritate the skin and scalp, such as fragrance, allergens, silicones, sulfates and salts,” he said.
The formulas, Markham insisted, are effective while preserving the scalp and decreasing irritation, so hair has a chance to flourish naturally. According to Markham, the key is keeping the scalp from becoming irritated, preventing buildup on and in the follicle, and avoiding harsh ingredients that damage strands and skin.
“With SuperSheer we chose natural bioactives, such as blue lotus flower and edelweiss, that are the very best for your hair with zero tradeoffs. Our proprietary ingredient blend delivers featherlight, super clean, airy results while avoiding harsh chemicals and maximizing color retention,” he said.
The formulations, which have no silicones or fragrance and are 100% vegan, are also certified hypoallergenic—an industry first for professional hair care, according to Markham. He insists this gives the brand an opportunity to reach an entirely new demographic of consumers—those who suffer from allergies, have medical conditions, or super sensitive skin and scalp. (For more on Markham and his incredible career, click here.)
Also addressing scalp care is Seed Phytonutrients. The scalp is considered to be the most absorbent part of the body; in fact, the scalp and forehead are actually four times more absorbent than forearm skin, according to the naturals brand, which just launched Scalp & Roots Oat Mask ($28), a dual benefit 2-in-1 clarifying shampoo and detox mask treatment. For mild to moderate buildup, it can be used as a deep cleansing shampoo; for detoxifying treatment, it should be applied to targeted buildup areas on damp or dry hair for 3–5 minutes. Key ingredients include oats that remove hard water minerals and pollutants while gently ridding the scalp of excess oil buildup; tagua seed powder and jojoba esters that gently exfoliate product buildup; and carrot seed oil which has vitamin B to rebalance and moisturize the scalp while providing antioxidant protection for hair.
According to Zoe Hyams, VP-marketing at Keratin Complex, even today’s edgier looks need a foundation of healthy hair, and as such, the brand has rolled out Keratin Complex Style, a line of nine styling products formulated with proprietary keratin, antioxidants and UV protectants.
According to the brand, Keratin Complex Style aligns to the entire Keratin Complex treatment portfolio and is also designed to work synergistically with all Keratin Complex products.
“The introduction of Keratin Complex Style not only completes our keratin-enhanced portfolio but also elevates our salon offerings and the customer’s experience. We are truly now a customizable, full-service company with best-in-class keratin smoothing treatments, keratin-enhanced color line, a full aftercare line and now styling. Keratin Complex Style completes a 360-degree healthy hair regimen from treatment all the way through to style,” said Hyams in a statement.
The full range includes firm hold and flex hold hairsprays, volumizing foam, texturizing spray, strong hold gel, styling lotion, molding paste, styling gel and shine spray.
When it comes to style, thicker hair is preferred. This Fall, Redken expanded its Redken Brews Men’s range with a trio of products designed to provide the appearance of thicker, fuller hair: a shampoo that gently cleanses while stimulating and nourishing the scalp and strengthening hair fiber to prevent breakage; a pomade that creates instant volume and definition with mild control; and a spray that creates the look and feel of thicker, denser hair by increasing the diameter of each hair strand.
Additionally, consumers love multi-tasking products, and Joon Haircare’s Saffron Hair Elixir Oil, a 10-in-1 hair oil, found many fans who turn to the formulation for a variety of uses.
“I have heard countless times—from people with many different hair types—that the Elixir works to detangle, defrizz and moisturize hair without weighing it down,” said co-founder Shiva Tavakoli, who noted that the development of the oil stemmed from her own necessity. “We created a lightweight formula with a balanced blend of ingredients that we worked on for years prior to coming to market. A combination of culture and years of family recipes and hair fixes, along with the help of science, the Elixir was born out of my own need for a multi-use, efficacious treatment and styler.”
Joon is prepping to expand by riffing on ingredients found in its signature SKU. Saffron Rose Shampoo and Saffron Rose Conditioner are due out in 2020, Tavakoli told Happi.
In addition to key ingredients like saffron, turmeric and pomegranate, which nourish, strengthen and restore hair elasticity, the new formulations will contain pistachio and rose to hydrate and smooth the hair strands as well as a proprietary blend of proteins, panthenol, vitamin E and ginger to add shine and repair damage from environmental pollutants and styling tools.
“With the launch of Saffron Rose Shampoo and Saffron Rose Conditioner, our range will expand to show the efficacious properties of our formulations and place in the hair space. We remain true to the origins of Joon by using ingredients, family recipes, and an aesthetic of beauty all which have originated from our grandmother and our Persian culture. We find this position and development to be how we stand apart,” she concluded.
New Alliances
A well-known retail hair care shop, Sally Beauty is set to release its first influencer collaboration in hair care with social media personality Monica Stevens. The MoKnowsHair line has been designed to “care for curly hair and correct damaging practices”—key issues for Stevens, who is a stylist and salon owner. The line, which retails between $9.99 and $11.99, is formulated with Abyssinian oil, aloe vera and hydrolyzed proteins to moisturize, restore and protect textured hair. Products include options such as Scalp + Curl Clarifier, a pre-shampoo treatment that removes pollutants and product build-up, Sulfate-Free Gentle Moisturizing Cleanser, and a Curl Smoothing Pudding and more.
Products designed to address curly hair needs are a huge market, and big players in the category are taking note of indies that have been successfully addressing the needs of this consumer base. In fact, right as this issue was heading to press, Henkel announced its acquisition of Deva Parent Holdings, Inc., owner of DevaCurl, from Ares Management Corporation. Founded in 1994, DevaCurl’s range includes cleansers, conditioners, styling products, styling accessories and treatments available in US salons, selective retailers (Ulta and Sephora) as well as through direct-to-consumer and ecommerce platforms. According to estimates, DevaCurl will finish the year with approximately $100 million in revenues, mainly from the US market.
“This acquisition is part of our strategy to expand our position in attractive and fast-growing markets and categories. It will complement and further strengthen our hair professional business,” Henkel CEO Hans Van Bylen said in a statement when the deal was announced in mid-November.
Another alliance in hair care was announced in October as Farouk Systems, Inc. and its partner LG Household & Health Care rolled out a co-created hair care line called Avon CHI Essentials. (LG H&H acquired New Avon Company in April 2019). The four-product collection will be sold through avon.com and Avon’s direct sales program in the US and Canada. All products are more than 90% natural and contain a blend of nutrient- and antioxidant-rich ingredients such as aloe vera, which is organically grown by Farouk Systems, Inc. in Houston.
Innovation, indies and new alliances are aimed at meeting needs of today’s consumers and stylists who demand style and substance.
“Hair tends are going to be moving to more of a ‘dressed’ look while keeping in mind that effortless will always be chic,” predicted L’Oréal Professionnel artist and salon owner Lopez. “Using the correct cleansing and treatment lines will be the backbone to these looks.”
Looking for ingredients for your next hair care launch? A list of new materials from industry suppliers begins below
Hair Care Ingredients
Below is a list of new ingredients for hair care products recently introduced by industry suppliers. For more information on the materials listed, please contact the companies directly using the information provided.
Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America, Inc.
Tel: 919-233-2367
Email: spc_marketing@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajiaminobeauty.com
AMISAFE LL-DS-22
INCI: Disodium sebacoyl bis-lauramidolysine, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment
Use levels: 0.1-0.5%
Attributes: Amisafe LL-DS-22 is an amino acid-based texture modifier. It is a water soluble active. It acts as a foam booster and imparts silky smoothness to hair. It helps reduce the hair drying time by 30% and hence helps prevent hair damage caused by hair dryers.
PRODEX 500
INCI: Sodium PCA, sodium lactate, arginine, aspartic acid, PCA, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine, phenylalanine, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment.
Use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Attributes: Prodew 500 is a paraben-free amino acid blend that has excellent properties for hair care formulations. It is formulated to mimic the hair’s CMC and brings benefits such as moisturizing, strengthening, color-protection and repair of hair surface damage.
AMISAFE LMA-60
INCI: Hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl/myristyl ether HCl, alcohol, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment.
Use levels: 0.5-3.0%
Attributes: Amisafe LMA-60 is an amphoteric hair conditioning active derived from L-arginine. Amisafe LMA-60 exhibits high degree of biodegradability, is environmentally friendly and mild. It has excellent moisturizing and hair color protection properties. It makes hair smooth while improving the strength of damaged hair. It suppresses static and improves the manageability of hair.
BASF Care Creations
Tel: 800-962-7831
Email: beautycare-na@basf.com
Website: http://www.carecreations.basf.us/
RAMBUVITAL
INCI: Maltodextrin (and) nephelium lappaceum (seed) extract
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, treatment
Use levels: 0.1%
Attributes: An extract from the rambutan fruit seeds, protects scalp and hair follicle from impact of urban pollution which causes sebum oxidation that leads to malodor. (Clinical study: 82% odor repellent). Additionally, in vivo, the scalp was significantly more hydrated within one month (+31% vs placebo) and hair appeared and felt visibly healthier and shinier.
Brenntag Specialties
Tel: 800-732-0562
Email: personalcare@brenntag.com
Website: www.brenntagpersonalcare.com
KOSTOL TMC-25
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and treatments
Use levels: 2-6%
Attributes: Kostol TMC-25 is a sulfate-free conditioning emulsifier that provides excellent deposition and anti-static properties. This multifunctional emulsifier is manufactured in the US by Koster Keunen without isopropyl alcohol.
PROCATALINE G2 BIOFUNCTIONAL
INCI: (proposed) Water (and) glycerin (and) Pisum sativum (pea) extract (and) Salvia hispanica seed extract
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 1%
Attributes: Procataline G2 biofunctional is an innovative botanical extract designed to help protect the hair and scalp from environmental stress. This biofunctional is rich in peptides, amino acids, polysaccharides, polyphenols and mineral which provide hair detoxifying, scalp purifying and soothing properties.
BELSIL PF 200
INCI: PEG/PPG-20/20 phenylisopropyl caprylyl dimethicone
Applications Shampoo, conditioner and treatment
Use levels: 1-20%
Attributes: Belsil PF 200 is a unique, multifunctional phenyl-modified dimethicone that is easily incorporated into aqueous formulations while maintaining clarity. In hair care applications, Belsil PF 200 imparts a high degree of shine, improved combability, and a soft, silky feel.
Chemyunion
Tel: 732-529-0964
Email: contact@chemyunion.com
Website: www.chemyunion.com
SENSOVEIL SOFT
INCI: EthylLinoleate (and) ethyl oleate (and) Crambe abyssinica seed oil(and) Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil (and) Persea gratissima (avocado) oil.
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, ampoules, leave-on and male products.
Use levels: Shampoo: 0.1 to 0.5% (w/w), conditioner, hair mask, ampoules, leave-on and male products: 1 to 2% (w/w)
Attributes: Sensoveil Soft is aligned to green trends, high performance and proven efficacy, acting as a lipid replacement on hair fibers. It improves the texture of the formulation in the hair and its combability, reducing frizz. Film -former without buildup.
THERMOSHIELD PREMIUM
INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) Salvia hispanica seed extract (and) Trehalose (and) xylitol (and) caprylyl/capryl glucoside (and) ethyl linoleate (and) ethyl oleate (and) sorbitan oleate (and) Polyquaternium-37 (and) sodium phosphate
Applications: Leave-on and finishing products
Use levels: 2% (w/w)
Attributes: ThermoShield Premium is a heat protection which retains water inside the hair fiber, forming a protective film through a technological mechanism. It protects the hair from thermal damages without compromising styling. Promotes shine, softness and anti-frizz effect. Alternative to silicone heat protectants.
Croda Inc
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-USA@croda.com
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
PROSINA
INCI: Aqua (and) hydrolyzed keratin
Applications: Leave-on and rinse-off hair conditioners, hair treatments
Attributes: A unique hydrolyzed keratin with unusually high cystine content, ideal for use in hair care formulations. Created using a proprietary manufacturing process that keeps cystine in its active S-SO3 form, ProSina increases the strength of hair during the regrowth process and helps replenish proteins that are easily lost from relaxed African hair with matching peptides.
Dow
Email: liv.schneideraffeld@Dow.com
Website: https://www.dow.com/en-us/market/mkt-beauty-personal-care.html
MAIZECARE STYLE POLYMER
INCI: Hydrolyzed corn starch
Applications: Styling gel, cream, wax, water spray
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Attributes: It’s a little corny, but the transformative bio-based style performance of this non-GMO ingredient speaks for itself. Dow’s new MaizeCare Style Polymer, derived from cornstarch, meets demands for natural products with an outstanding range of styling benefits like curl retention, frizz control and improved style durability with virtually no flaking.
DSM Personal Care
Tel: 973-257-8222
Email: Info.pc-na@dsm.com
Website: www.dsm.com/personal-care
TILAMAR BOOST 150
INCI: Polyquaternium-110
Applications: Volumizing shampoos and conditioners
Use levels: 1–3%
Attributes: Visible hair volume increase (>100%) when used alone or in synergy with other common conditioning agents. A new-to-the-world hair care technology that invisibly transforms upon drying to create volume without sacrificing conditioning, a key advantage compared to common volumizing methods.
Evonik Corporation
Tel: 804-727-0700
Email: PCSampling@evonik.com
Website: evonik.com/personalcare
HIRFLUX
INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil; Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil; Ceramide NG
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 1%
Attributes: Hair damage repair and scalp improvement through a bio-inspired solution that leverages the power of ceramides
ABILQuat 3676
INCI: Quaternium-80 (and) Dipropylene Glycol
Applications: Conditioner
Use levels: 0.2% – 2.0%
Attributes: A high molecular weight, highly substantive silicone quat able to provide intense hair conditioning and gloss, while being easy to formulate in emulsion-type conditioners, conditioning rinses, and hair masks
Hallstar
Tel: 877-427-4255
Email: BeautyCS@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstarbeauty.com
SENSOLENE LIGHT ET
INCI: Ethyl olivate, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and treatment
Use levels: 0.5–5%
Attributes: Superior emolliency with antioxidant benefits. Derived sustainably from olive leaves and olive oil. Unique dry, light, silicone-like feel. Substantiated hair shine claims due to high refractive index. 100% natural origin, COSMOS-approved, globally-compliant (including China), alternative to silicones
Inolex
Tel: 215 271 0800
Email: info@inolex.com
Website: www.inolex.com
AMINOSENSYL HC
INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassicyl valinate esylate
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and treatment
Use levels: typically 6.0–15.0% as received
Attributes: AminoSensyl HC from Inolex is a 100% natural, quat-free hair care system for strengthening, smoothing/anti-frizz, defining curls, and conditioning hair. Its ecofriendly design provides a readily biodegradable cationic system that is safe and gentle to humans and the planet.
Jeen International
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
OLEOSIL NATURALLY-DERVIVED SILICONE ELASTOMER GELS
INCI: various
Applications: Conditioners, treatment, Styling products
Use levels: 0.5–25.0%
Attributes: OleoSil products are naturally-derived silicone elastomer gels utilizing Jeechem NDA alkanes for an array of functional end products differentiated by sensorial end feel. OleoSil gels produce an array of functional end products differentiated by sensorial feel, chemical function, and versatile end use.
JEECHEM NDA ALKANES
INCI: various
Applications: Colorants, masks, pomades, sculpting/styling products, shampoos, conditioners, rinses
Use levels: 0.5–90.0%
Attributes: Jeechem NDA alkanes can be used in place of silicone oils contributing emolliency, shine, and transient conditioning in shampoos, conditioners and rinses. Jeechem NDA alkanes also act as co-dispersants and solvents in hair colorants, hair masks, pomades and sculpting products.
Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
CARBOPOL STYLE 2.0
INCI: Carbomer
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 0.5–2%
Attributes: Carbopol Style 2.0 is a rheology modifier with inherent boosting properties that provide a stronger hold in wet styling applications. A crosslinked polyacrylic acid polymer, it is available in white powder form for great flexibility and compatibility with fixatives, humectants and fragrances.
FIXATE RENEW
Applications: Treatment
Attributes: Fixate Renew safely enables long-lasting hair manageability, care and style benefits, lasting for more than 10 shampoo washes. After applying to hair, it is activated with heat using a typical flat ironing technique, modifying the hair fiber for improved manageability.
SEASCALP BIOMARINE INGREDIENT
INCI: Water (Aqua), Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, sodium salicylate
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 3%
Attributes: Seascalp biomarine ingredient is a natural biotechnological ingredient intended to minimize the accumulation of sebaceous lipids and strengthens the skin barrier function. It helps provide a healthy scalp with less itchiness, greasiness and flakes for up to two weeks.
Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Tel: 81-72-987-2626
Email: sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
Website: www.seiwakasei.jp/en/
VEGETAMIDE 18MEA-NJ
INCI: Cetearamidoethyldiethonium succinoyl hydrolyzed pea protein, glycerin, water
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hHair treatment, hair mist
Use levels: 1.0–5.0%
Attributes: Vegetamide is plant derived liquid cuticle which is alternative to silicone. It has a similar structure to F-Layer (containing 18-MEA), which is the structure of hair cuticles. Damaged hair surface can be restored to a healthy state with excellent texture.
PROMOIS WJ-SP
INCI: Hydrolyzed pea protein
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, hair treatment, hair mist
Use levels: 0.4–1.0%
Attributes: Promois WJ-SP is a hydrolyzed pea protein called “botanical keratin.” Because its amino acid composition is similar to that of hydrolyzed keratin, the function is also similar. Promois WJ-SP has been approved by Ecocert and Cosmos.
AMINOREACT TSV
INCI: Sodium tosyl valinate, butylene glycol, water
Applications: Hair treatment, hair mist, shampoo, conditioner
Use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Attributes: Aminoreact TsV is an ingredient specifically developed for providing the hair elasticity. It acts on the β layer in the cell membrane complex that has decreased due to aging, providing the hair elasticity, restoring hair youthfulness and improving volume.
Silab
Tel: +33 555 84 58 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
FILMEXEL
INCI: Kappaphycus alvarezii extract and Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract
Applications: Treatment
Use levels: 0.05%–1%
Attributes: Filmexel is a natural biopolymer forming a protective film on the hair. It protects the fiber from damage caused by bleaching treatment and outdoor pollution. It improves the shine of hair when exposed to repeated chemical and thermal aggressions.
