An Actives Lifestyle

May 29, 2007

Aging Baby Boomers and skittish young consumers are driving growth of personal care actives.

 A wide range of active cosmetic ingredients are helping Baby Boomers age more gracefully.
An Actives Lifestyle

Aging Baby Boomers and skittish young consumers are driving growth of personal care actives.

Tom Branna
Editorial Director

During the past 20 years, the cosmetic industry, regardless of FDA guidelines, has moved from camouflage to corrective products. No one can deny that today’s skin, hair and color cosmetics often do much more than cover up flaws, they actually work to keep damage from accruing over the consumer’s lifetime. As a result, sales of active ingredients are expected to soar during the next decade.

For example, one industry estimate puts sales of vitamins, polysaccharides, botanicals, proteins/peptides and enzymes/co-enzymes at $600 million in 2006. But by 2016, sales of these active skin care ingredients are expected to top $1.3 billion, for an annual gain of 8% (see Happi, p. 62, March 2007).
Why the tremendous interest in active materials? Quite simply, consumers in mature markets such as the U.S., Japan and Western Europe are getting older faster. At the same time, consumers in developing economies have more disposable income to spend on non-essentials such as cosmetics. Finally, younger consumers want to ward off the signs of aging before they appear.
While national economies and consumer spending power around the world vary, the good news for global personal care companies is that the concept of beauty appears universal. In fact, there’s even a checklist of attributes that cosmetic marketers and suppliers can reference to ensure that they’re on track to making the world a beautiful place.
What characterizes beauty? According to Thomas Rabe, a research fellow at Procter & Gamble, surprisingly similar standards of beauty have endured throughout the ages, regardless of ethnicity. These standards include:
    • Full lips;
    • Red lips and cheeks;
    • Large eyes;
    • Prominent, long, curled, dark eyelashes;
    • Smooth skin with subtle tonal variation;
    • Taught, soft skin structure;
    • Prominent cheekbones and
    • Saturated life-like color.

The challenge to the industry is that the vast majority of women and especially, men, want to transform their appearance invisibly, according to Mr. Rabe. The good news is that more consumers are spending a lot of money in an effort to achieve these standards.
According to industry consultant Wendy Lewis, U.S. skin care sales topped $5.8 billion last year, driven in large part by the growing interest among Baby Boomers for products that prevent and correct the signs of aging. Industry suppliers are rolling out a wide range of active materials to aid cosmetic formulators in creating truly effective cosmetics.

Novel Chemistries

Silab has developed Osilift (INCI: water (aqua) (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract). Based on a purified fraction of branched natural polyoses obtained from oats, the new ingredient provides a dramatic lifting/tightening effect to the skin, according to the company. In a study involving untrained volunteers, 86% reported a significant tightening effect after 30 minutes when applied at 4% in a gel formulation.
In a profilometry study to measure anti-wrinkling benefits, Osilift was found to reduce wrinkles by 64% after two hours. In a long-term study (28 days), there was an anti-wrinkling effect for 67% of volunteers who applied the material twice a day.
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques recent-ly introduced five, naturally-derived actives under its LS Entielles umbrella. LS Entielle Resource is derived from African camphor bush and can significantly reduce the production of free radicals, while it provides detoxifying and soothing effects.
LS Entielle Allure improves the epidermal growth factors supporting keratinocyte growth and protein synthesis.
LS Entielle Harmonie consists of spiked ginger lily extracts that reduce the release of prostaglandins by stressed keratinocytes and limits inflammation caused by environmental stress.
LS Entielle Spiritualité, a white sandalwood extract, repairs stressed neurons, and can therefore be used to restore skin homeostasis and stimulate the cell’s communication.
LS Entielle Volupté, derived from an Amazonian pepper plant, significantly increases the dopamine release of neurons to help skin feel revitalized.
In other new product news, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques introduced Actiwhite LS 9808, a skin whitener that can be used in formulations of a wide pH-range and in various lightening care products, anti-age spot creams and serums. LS also rolled out Syniorage LS 9748, an active peptide that is said to reverse the effects of aging. It acts on the two constituents of the epidermis that are primarily responsible for its cohesion.

Gattefossé’s Rollout

Gattefossé recently rolled out Hema’Tîte, an iron complex derived from stone extraction technology. The material reportedly has retinol-like activity to stimulate collagen synthesis and increase epidermal thickness. In an in-vivo test on crow’s feet, the material decreased wrinkle volume by 75%.

Calculating the Value of Ingredients

Everyone knows that most cosmetic chemists formulate products based on the specs provided by the marketing department. But before the folks in marketing start calling for some outrageously expensive ingredient, companies should find out how a particular ingredient fits in the personal care value chain.
    Kline and Company, Little Falls, NJ, has developed a web-based interactive tool that provides subscribers with brand-level consumption data for selected raw materials used in key personal care categories. At the same time, the Kline calculator gives the user the ability to calculate addressable raw material markets for brands or product categories, as well as an understanding of formulation platforms of key customers for key product categories.
    The program currently covers the U.S., Europe (France, Germany, Italy, Spain and UK) and Japan. More info: 973-435-6262; www.klinegroup.com
Leticc, Houdan, France, introduced Prodhyderm XPP, a French oak extract that is said to be rich in polyphenols. At 5% use levels, the material  acts as a free-radical trap and anti-aging ingredient. In anti-aging creams, it reduced the appearance of wrinkles after 28 days.
In a new efficacy study of its NutriLayer rice bran oil-based ingredient, Eastman reported that the material can reduce the appearance of wrinkles by 50% and limit free radicals in the viable epidermis by 45%.
To solve conditions of impaired skin microcirculation, such as cellulite, local adiposity and related disorders, Sinerga, Pero, Italy, has introduced X-Solve. The material is said to improve blood flow in superficial vessels 30 minutes after topical application.
To help reconstruct the skin barrier, Sinerga introduced Tri-Solve (trehalose, ceramide 2 and cholesterol). The company insists Tri-Solve restores intercellular lipids, improves skin barrier homeostasis and increases water retention.
Gatuline Age-Defense2 from Gattefossé protects hair from UV damage. At 0.5% use levels, the material may be used as both a preventative or a curative treatment to protect or repair hair. In fact, Age Defense2 protects both cutaneous tissue and also the hair from widespread environmental aggressions such as UV, pollutants or heavy metals.
Leticc introduced Concentrated Prodhyhair, a water-soluble material based, in part, on Silanol. It is said to be an effective treatment for androgenic alopecia.
TRI-K recently launched Flax-Tein Pro, a soothing and moisturizing protein for skin and hair. It is said to be rich in Omega-3 and alpha-linolenic acid. It imparts moisturization to the skin and hair and has excellent film-forming capabilities. According to TRI-K, Flax-Tein Pro promotes healthy, radiant and moisture-rich skin. But when used on hair, it has been proven to smooth and repair damaged hair shafts.

The Latest Botanicals

The Serdex Division of Bayer last month introduced a broad range of botanical extracts for skin care products. Vernonia Appendiculata Leaf Extract is said to improve skin cohesion, reinforce the dermal-epidermal junction and enrich and renew the extracellular matrix. A new purified fraction of Notoginseng protects skin from UV-induced damage, chronological aging and activates cellular defense. At the same time, Bayer has entered the skin whitening category with Buddleja Axillaris Leaf Extract, which inhibits melanin production and transfer to visibly reduce pigmentation.
Serdex maintains that it has ethnobotanical expertise of tropical flora, particularly in Madagascar to develop innovative extracts from original plants.

 Some New Ideas on Building Better Color Cosmetics

Speaking at The Value of Color, a conference developed by the Color Pigments Manufacturers Association, Thomas Rabe of Procter & Gamble told the audience that the gold standard for cosmetic scientists should be the appearance of naturally flawless beauty.
“We will know we have succeeded when more color products are adopted by men,” he said.
He noted that color products for men are slowly emerging but they are fundamentally the same as those for women, with reduced benefits in coverage to limit noticeability. While women use color cosmetics to correct, enhance and accent their appearance, men primarily use cosmetics to correct their appearance with only a slight enhancement.
Moreover, he noted that although there have been advances in surface treatments, particle/size distribution, effect pigments and dispersant technology, colorants have fundamentally changed very little during the past century.
“Most of the consumer noticeable changes have stemmed from the delivery system/chassis, not from the particles that are deposited,” noted Mr. Rabe.
He told the audience that the industry must develop colorant technology and/or deposition technology that allows the consumer to truly mimic the light interaction that is represented by flawless skin.  At the same time, the industry must create completely new optical effects that have never been achieved in areas such as depth of color and expanded color space.

Colorant Opportunities

Mr. Rabe called mimicking the optical properties of flawless skin the Holy Grail of the cosmetics business. But in order to mimic ideal skin, colorants must be able to re-create the following attributes:
    • Spectral curve, replicating the true colors/chromophores of healthy skin;
    • Tonal variation/tonal improvement;
    • Lateral light diffusion through skin; and
    • Texture minimization (pore/wrinkle hiding).
In order to design colorants to mimic flawless skin requires non-bleeding, pH stable higher chroma pigments and larger particles to create larger color domains. At the same time, this new generation of colorants must have superior skin wetting and appearance attributes by minimizing differences in surface-free energy vs. skin.
Mr. Rabe told the audience that color variance is critical when attempting to mimic flawless skin. Too little color variance leads to unnatural, mannequin-type skin and too much resembles older, flawed skin.
“Conventional foundation is monochromatic and removes the color variation of all skin types,” he insisted.
Yet a new generation of larger domain, high chroma colorants can mimic the color variation of flawless skin. He called new encapsulated organic colorants a step in the right direction. By teaming up with Ciba, P&G cosmetic chemists have been able to create colorants with improved color variation and lower interfacial tension.
Now P&G researchers are searching for a superior particle to titanium dioxide for boosting coverage by mimicking the lateral light diffusion of skin, creating the same depth of light scatter found in skin and eliminating the blue peak, which is not found in skin.
At the same time, the company continues to create new optical effects for lips and eyes and is determined to reproduce the colors and optical effects of biology and nature.

A New Partnership

Degussa Goldschimdt Personal Care extended its portfolio of active ingredients via a new partnership with Sabinsa. The deal was announced last month and company executives insist new products developed through the partnership will be launched in the second half of the year.
“This agreement essentially allows us to offer novel, nature-derived active ingredients to our broad customer base and reinforce our position as a preferred partner for the development of innovative products and new applications,” said Willy Klipp, senior VP&GM, Degussa Goldschmidt Personal Care.
According to the companies, the partnership is the initial step to a closer collaborative venture between Goldschmidt and Sabinsa. The two will work together to jointly develop and commercialize new and innovative active ingredients.
“It is a perfect fit as Sabinsa’s strength lies in the identification of bio-active compounds from Indian habitats, whereas we bring our competencies in the field of claims substantiation and formulation know-how,” added Dr. Peter Lersch, head of R&D Care Ingredients/Biotechnology, Degussa Goldschmidt.

Whether by forming new partnerships, rolling out novel materials or acquiring a better understanding of skin physiology, cosmetic industry suppliers are leading the way toward better skin care, hair care and color cosmetics formulations.

Looking for a supplier of active ingredients? A list of companies begins on p. 66 in the print version of Happi.

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