05.03.23
At last night’s NYSCC Industry Awards Night, eight finalists were announced for the CEW Beauty Creators Supplier’s Award—Ingredients & Formulation Category.
Here are the eight finalists:
Activen: XE –716 miniprotein. XEP-716 miniprotein is a first-in-class mimetic mini growth factor able to unleash TGF-ß pleiotropic effects, according to the company.
XEP-716 miniprotein triggers matrix regeneration (collagen, HA, elastin), dermo-epidermal junction strengthening, orchestrates the beneficial activity of other skin cells and induces fibroblasts differentiation and rejuvenation.
In vivo studies showed XEP-716 miniprotein high rejuvenating and anti-aging activity with visible results on aged women after only 2 weeks. After 28 days, XEP-716 strongly improves dermal density (+40%vsT0), skin elasticity (+39%vsT0), and reduces wrinkles. XEP-716 can penetrate the skin thanks to its smaller size and its 3D folded structure. Highly specific, XEP-716 shows no off-target toxicity.
Activen is a biotech dedicated to the discovery and marketing of natural miniproteins.
Miniproteins are proteins that are small enough to penetrate the skin and offer high and specific efficacy on a given target. Highly potent and safe, miniproteins will be the new class of active cosmetic ingredients.
As a pioneer, Activen developed a unique database of more than 100,000 miniproteins and its proprietary discovery platform. Convinced by the proven potential of growth factors in regenerative medicine, we focused our research on TGF-ß, a pleiotropic growth factor. However, TGF-ß protein is too big to penetrate the skin. Activen searched for candidates able to mimic TGF-ß activity and penetrate the skin. As a result, XEP-716 miniprotein was born.
BASF: Probiolift. Unlike other biotics existing on the cosmetic market, Probiolift uses a bacterium called Lactobacillus crispatus, that is found naturally on the skin. Made of millions of live, but dormant bacteria that wake up in contact with water on the skin, Probiolift increases the dermal density, improves the appearance of forehead wrinkles and protects skin from oxidative stress. It is perfectly complemented by Postbiolift, derived from the same biofermentation process with no living bacteria, according to BASF.
Skin microbiota diversity changes with age. Certain beneficial lactic acid bacteria are reduced; some even disappear from mature skin. BASF researchers discovered that Lactobacillus crispatus was found to have a high density on young individual’s skin, but was nearly lacking on older individuals’ skin. This is what drove BASF to isolate this native skin bacteria and make it available as a cosmetic Probiotherapy to counteract signs of aging.
Cambrium: NovaColl. NovaColl is the first micro-molecular and 100% skin-identical collagen for the personal care industry. Owing to its structure and distinctly small molecular size, NovaColl is able to create powerful collagen benefits across the skin. NovaColl is vegan certified and produced using biotechnology, offering formulators a unique combination of efficacy, skin-compatibility and sustainability. Along with its unmatched biocompatibility, NovaColl has demonstrated a broad range of skin activity in in vitro tests, working to holistically protect, maintain and enhance native collagen. NovaColl delivers the future of beauty to brands and formulators, and is available as an aqueous solution for simple incorporation into premium skincare products, according to Cambrium.
Far from just another collagen alternative, NovaColl represents true molecular innovation. Using its AI-driven molecular design technology, Cambrium’s scientists searched through billions of collagen sequences to discover the most skin-active region of Human Collagen Type 1, captured for the first time in NovaColl. Compared to conventional animal-derived collagen or plant-derived collagen alternatives, NovaColl leverages the full potential of biology. Using precise biotechnological tools, Cambrium were able to produce their skin-active, micro-molecular collagen through fermentation – resulting in a vegan certified, 100% skin-identical collagen that’s of a small enough molecular size to create effects across skin layers.
Croda: Mel(o)stem. Billed as the first active ingredient addressing both dark and white pigment disorders for an even complexion and sun capital preservation. Solar lentigo and flat white spots or “white freckles” are two different pigment disorders both caused by sun damage to the melanocyte and its microenvironment. Its holistic approach focuses on melanocyte’s balance for proper activity, with an expert-measured 64% improvement of complexion evenness vs placebo (clinical study), according to Croda.
This ingredient is obtained from plant cell culture of scarlet beebalm leaves. It comes with unique sustainable attributes: land occupation divided by 100, water consumption divided by 35, 100% waste recovery process, unique plant sampling, and full transparency on its sourcing and processing.
Givaudan Active Beauty: PrimalHyal Hydra [+]. PrimalHyal Hydra[+] is a novel generation of hyaluronic acid (HA) bringing extremely high hydration performances in both rinse-off and leave-on applications.
Designed from a low molecular weight HA, it has been optimized with cationic groups to maximize its skin adhesion. With up to +95% skin affinity, it creates a perfectly homogeneous film on skin surface, enabling to deliver instant skin hydration in just 1 rinse-off application, while outperforming the leave-on performances of standard HA benchmarks (low or high molecular weight) with up to 4 days of long-lasting hydration, according to Givaudan Active Beauty.
Its unique adhesion properties contribute to reinforcing the skin barrier function by increasing lipids & proteins content and boosts skin’s total water content.
As a gold standard for skin hydration, hyaluronic acid (HA) is not compatible with rinse-off usages. PrimalHyal Hydra [+] has been rationally designed through HA cationization for a perfect skin adhesion (skin being negatively charged) even under wash off.
Clinically tested in a shower gel, it brings instant hydration in just 1 application, a benefit qualified by 82% of consumers in a home usage test. In leave-on application, it reinforces skin barrier, increases skin thickness, and delivers up to +100% hydration. Moreover, its skin adhesion enables up to 4 days of non-stop hydration benefits after the last application.
China compliant, PrimalHyal Hydra [+] enables brands to define the next generation of skin hydration.
Givaudan Active Beauty: Gravityl. Gravity contributes to skin sagging, one of the biggest consumer skin aging concerns. Givaudan Active Beauty researchers crafted Gravityl from a red macroalgae. It is the first active ingredient able to biologically fight and reverse the physical effect of gravity on skin, according to the company.
Gravityl relaunches the production of key dermis biomarkers, responsible for elastin organization, while boosting collagen I & III production. Its benefits were demonstrated in 2 clinical trials (double blind versus placebo) with over 80 volunteers, showing that Gravityl:
• Increases total collagen production (x3)
• Rejuvenate skin firmness (x7)
• Restores skin elasticity (x2.7)
• Lifts & reshapes sagging skin
• Visually reduces double chin in 1 month
During aging, skin loses extracellular fibers (collagen, elastin), resulting in skin sagging under the action of gravity. Givaudan Active Beauty’s skin experts looked for biological pathways to fight this physical phenomenon and discovered an extract of a red algae, growing on the French pink granite coast, able to reorganize elastic fibers and boost collagen production.
Gravityl biological efficacy has been demonstrated with unique technologies: transcriptomic, proteomic, bi-photonic microscopy and atomic force microscopy, as well as in vivo with LC-OCT, Siascope, AEVA-HE and cutometer. Fully natural, China compliant, Cosmos approved and easy to formulate, Gravityl enables the development of high performing face lifting and reshaping products!
P2 Science Inc.: CitroSperse. CitroSperse is a sustainable series of high-quality pigment dispersions. Based on P2’s proprietary polyterpenes chemistry, which encapsulates all 12 Principles of Green Chemistry, the CitroSperse pigment dispersions are highlighted by silicone-like sensory profile, very high color strength and a significant reduction in carbon footprint. These dispersions will enable the formulation of high-payoff color cosmetics while maintaining a familiar skin feel.
The CitroSperse series features 100% natural CitroSperse Red Iron Oxide, CitroSperse Black Iron Oxide, CitroSperse Yellow Iron Oxide, and CitroSperse Titanium Dioxide dispersions all with at least 60% pigment loading.
For decades, silicone-based pigment dispersions have been the gold standard in color cosmetics owing to its sensory profile and color strength. In recent years, with increased focus on lowering carbon footprint, dispersion manufacturers have entered into the market with more sustainable variants but they often sacrifice sensory and color strength for better sustainability metrics.
Seeking better sustainability while being at parity or better for all sensory and performance metrics, P2 Science created the CitroSperse series. CitroSperse’s sensory profile is nearly identical to that of dimethicone-based dispersions while breakthroughs have been achieved with consumer-perceivable higher color strength and lower carbon footprint.
Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc.: Concentrated Conditioner Drops. Described as a revolutionary new solid hair conditioner tablet, by Vantage. Just add water and it transforms into a deep conditioning cream for silky, smooth hair. Compact and convenient for on-the-go use, users can also customize their routines by adding a serum to boost efficacy or target specific conditions. Plus, it's sulfate-free, vegan, and environmentally friendly, eliminating plastic bottles. Achieve the best results and protect the planet with Vantage’s new conditioner tablet.
This formulation was developed using a new self-emulsifying technology called Jeesperse NoLo. This technology allows to create water-free formulations that contains all the required conditioning ingredients for hair care.
Increasing demand for eco-friendly and sustainable beauty products: solid hair conditioner tablets eliminate the need for plastic bottles, reducing waste and promoting sustainable practices.
Convenience and portability: traditional hair conditioners can be bulky and difficult to pack when traveling, while solid conditioner tablets are compact and easy to carry.
Finally, the ability to customize the hair treatment with the addition of a serum allows for personalized hair care, catering to specific hair concerns.
Here are the eight finalists:
Activen: XE –716 miniprotein. XEP-716 miniprotein is a first-in-class mimetic mini growth factor able to unleash TGF-ß pleiotropic effects, according to the company.
XEP-716 miniprotein triggers matrix regeneration (collagen, HA, elastin), dermo-epidermal junction strengthening, orchestrates the beneficial activity of other skin cells and induces fibroblasts differentiation and rejuvenation.
In vivo studies showed XEP-716 miniprotein high rejuvenating and anti-aging activity with visible results on aged women after only 2 weeks. After 28 days, XEP-716 strongly improves dermal density (+40%vsT0), skin elasticity (+39%vsT0), and reduces wrinkles. XEP-716 can penetrate the skin thanks to its smaller size and its 3D folded structure. Highly specific, XEP-716 shows no off-target toxicity.
Activen is a biotech dedicated to the discovery and marketing of natural miniproteins.
Miniproteins are proteins that are small enough to penetrate the skin and offer high and specific efficacy on a given target. Highly potent and safe, miniproteins will be the new class of active cosmetic ingredients.
As a pioneer, Activen developed a unique database of more than 100,000 miniproteins and its proprietary discovery platform. Convinced by the proven potential of growth factors in regenerative medicine, we focused our research on TGF-ß, a pleiotropic growth factor. However, TGF-ß protein is too big to penetrate the skin. Activen searched for candidates able to mimic TGF-ß activity and penetrate the skin. As a result, XEP-716 miniprotein was born.
BASF: Probiolift. Unlike other biotics existing on the cosmetic market, Probiolift uses a bacterium called Lactobacillus crispatus, that is found naturally on the skin. Made of millions of live, but dormant bacteria that wake up in contact with water on the skin, Probiolift increases the dermal density, improves the appearance of forehead wrinkles and protects skin from oxidative stress. It is perfectly complemented by Postbiolift, derived from the same biofermentation process with no living bacteria, according to BASF.
Skin microbiota diversity changes with age. Certain beneficial lactic acid bacteria are reduced; some even disappear from mature skin. BASF researchers discovered that Lactobacillus crispatus was found to have a high density on young individual’s skin, but was nearly lacking on older individuals’ skin. This is what drove BASF to isolate this native skin bacteria and make it available as a cosmetic Probiotherapy to counteract signs of aging.
Cambrium: NovaColl. NovaColl is the first micro-molecular and 100% skin-identical collagen for the personal care industry. Owing to its structure and distinctly small molecular size, NovaColl is able to create powerful collagen benefits across the skin. NovaColl is vegan certified and produced using biotechnology, offering formulators a unique combination of efficacy, skin-compatibility and sustainability. Along with its unmatched biocompatibility, NovaColl has demonstrated a broad range of skin activity in in vitro tests, working to holistically protect, maintain and enhance native collagen. NovaColl delivers the future of beauty to brands and formulators, and is available as an aqueous solution for simple incorporation into premium skincare products, according to Cambrium.
Far from just another collagen alternative, NovaColl represents true molecular innovation. Using its AI-driven molecular design technology, Cambrium’s scientists searched through billions of collagen sequences to discover the most skin-active region of Human Collagen Type 1, captured for the first time in NovaColl. Compared to conventional animal-derived collagen or plant-derived collagen alternatives, NovaColl leverages the full potential of biology. Using precise biotechnological tools, Cambrium were able to produce their skin-active, micro-molecular collagen through fermentation – resulting in a vegan certified, 100% skin-identical collagen that’s of a small enough molecular size to create effects across skin layers.
Croda: Mel(o)stem. Billed as the first active ingredient addressing both dark and white pigment disorders for an even complexion and sun capital preservation. Solar lentigo and flat white spots or “white freckles” are two different pigment disorders both caused by sun damage to the melanocyte and its microenvironment. Its holistic approach focuses on melanocyte’s balance for proper activity, with an expert-measured 64% improvement of complexion evenness vs placebo (clinical study), according to Croda.
This ingredient is obtained from plant cell culture of scarlet beebalm leaves. It comes with unique sustainable attributes: land occupation divided by 100, water consumption divided by 35, 100% waste recovery process, unique plant sampling, and full transparency on its sourcing and processing.
Givaudan Active Beauty: PrimalHyal Hydra [+]. PrimalHyal Hydra[+] is a novel generation of hyaluronic acid (HA) bringing extremely high hydration performances in both rinse-off and leave-on applications.
Designed from a low molecular weight HA, it has been optimized with cationic groups to maximize its skin adhesion. With up to +95% skin affinity, it creates a perfectly homogeneous film on skin surface, enabling to deliver instant skin hydration in just 1 rinse-off application, while outperforming the leave-on performances of standard HA benchmarks (low or high molecular weight) with up to 4 days of long-lasting hydration, according to Givaudan Active Beauty.
Its unique adhesion properties contribute to reinforcing the skin barrier function by increasing lipids & proteins content and boosts skin’s total water content.
As a gold standard for skin hydration, hyaluronic acid (HA) is not compatible with rinse-off usages. PrimalHyal Hydra [+] has been rationally designed through HA cationization for a perfect skin adhesion (skin being negatively charged) even under wash off.
Clinically tested in a shower gel, it brings instant hydration in just 1 application, a benefit qualified by 82% of consumers in a home usage test. In leave-on application, it reinforces skin barrier, increases skin thickness, and delivers up to +100% hydration. Moreover, its skin adhesion enables up to 4 days of non-stop hydration benefits after the last application.
China compliant, PrimalHyal Hydra [+] enables brands to define the next generation of skin hydration.
Givaudan Active Beauty: Gravityl. Gravity contributes to skin sagging, one of the biggest consumer skin aging concerns. Givaudan Active Beauty researchers crafted Gravityl from a red macroalgae. It is the first active ingredient able to biologically fight and reverse the physical effect of gravity on skin, according to the company.
Gravityl relaunches the production of key dermis biomarkers, responsible for elastin organization, while boosting collagen I & III production. Its benefits were demonstrated in 2 clinical trials (double blind versus placebo) with over 80 volunteers, showing that Gravityl:
• Increases total collagen production (x3)
• Rejuvenate skin firmness (x7)
• Restores skin elasticity (x2.7)
• Lifts & reshapes sagging skin
• Visually reduces double chin in 1 month
During aging, skin loses extracellular fibers (collagen, elastin), resulting in skin sagging under the action of gravity. Givaudan Active Beauty’s skin experts looked for biological pathways to fight this physical phenomenon and discovered an extract of a red algae, growing on the French pink granite coast, able to reorganize elastic fibers and boost collagen production.
Gravityl biological efficacy has been demonstrated with unique technologies: transcriptomic, proteomic, bi-photonic microscopy and atomic force microscopy, as well as in vivo with LC-OCT, Siascope, AEVA-HE and cutometer. Fully natural, China compliant, Cosmos approved and easy to formulate, Gravityl enables the development of high performing face lifting and reshaping products!
P2 Science Inc.: CitroSperse. CitroSperse is a sustainable series of high-quality pigment dispersions. Based on P2’s proprietary polyterpenes chemistry, which encapsulates all 12 Principles of Green Chemistry, the CitroSperse pigment dispersions are highlighted by silicone-like sensory profile, very high color strength and a significant reduction in carbon footprint. These dispersions will enable the formulation of high-payoff color cosmetics while maintaining a familiar skin feel.
The CitroSperse series features 100% natural CitroSperse Red Iron Oxide, CitroSperse Black Iron Oxide, CitroSperse Yellow Iron Oxide, and CitroSperse Titanium Dioxide dispersions all with at least 60% pigment loading.
For decades, silicone-based pigment dispersions have been the gold standard in color cosmetics owing to its sensory profile and color strength. In recent years, with increased focus on lowering carbon footprint, dispersion manufacturers have entered into the market with more sustainable variants but they often sacrifice sensory and color strength for better sustainability metrics.
Seeking better sustainability while being at parity or better for all sensory and performance metrics, P2 Science created the CitroSperse series. CitroSperse’s sensory profile is nearly identical to that of dimethicone-based dispersions while breakthroughs have been achieved with consumer-perceivable higher color strength and lower carbon footprint.
Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc.: Concentrated Conditioner Drops. Described as a revolutionary new solid hair conditioner tablet, by Vantage. Just add water and it transforms into a deep conditioning cream for silky, smooth hair. Compact and convenient for on-the-go use, users can also customize their routines by adding a serum to boost efficacy or target specific conditions. Plus, it's sulfate-free, vegan, and environmentally friendly, eliminating plastic bottles. Achieve the best results and protect the planet with Vantage’s new conditioner tablet.
This formulation was developed using a new self-emulsifying technology called Jeesperse NoLo. This technology allows to create water-free formulations that contains all the required conditioning ingredients for hair care.
Increasing demand for eco-friendly and sustainable beauty products: solid hair conditioner tablets eliminate the need for plastic bottles, reducing waste and promoting sustainable practices.
Convenience and portability: traditional hair conditioners can be bulky and difficult to pack when traveling, while solid conditioner tablets are compact and easy to carry.
Finally, the ability to customize the hair treatment with the addition of a serum allows for personalized hair care, catering to specific hair concerns.