“While comforting, enveloping colors and ease are crucial to the seasonal feeling, standout shades like pale pink Ballet Slipper, a refreshing Golden Lime and a bright Marina blue add a striking touch when paired with the classic autumnal shades of Navy Peony, Neutral Gray, Butterum and Tawny Port,” said Eisenman.
The Fashion Color Report Fall 2017 edition, a comprehensive overview of fashion designers’ use of color in their seasonal collections, is an influence on the color cosmetic industry as well—as seen each year at New York Fashion Week (NYFW).
Regardless of shade, prestige color cosmetic sales are growing across the board, while mass is showing mixed reviews for eyes, lips, face and nails.
In the first quarter of 2017, sales of US prestige beauty products increased 4% to $4.0 billion, noted The NPD Group in its most recent report. Prestige makeup continues to lead overall beauty industry gains. The eye category grew at the fastest rate, driven by eyeshadow (14%), eyebrow (up 12%), and mascara (5%). All other face (20%) and face primers (18%) lifted the face category.
“The consumer desire for products that work with them, simplify their routines and offer instant gratification in both appearance and experience, is the force pushing some of the biggest trends in the beauty industry today. Whether they need a quick hair or makeup fix after the gym, on an airplane, or are looking to create a warm, sensory experience in their home, consumers have made clear their need for immediacy without sacrificing comfort or quality,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group.
Mass facial cosmetics sales rose 5.9% to $2.1 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended April 16, 2017. While blush slipped 5.7% to $148.8 million and bronzer fell 2.6% $57.3 million, foundation sales rose 3.4% to $1.02 billion, powder climbed 3.7% to $384.6 million and concealer sales jumped 9% to $281.9 million.
Meanwhile, lip cosmetic sales leaped 4.3% to $901.9 million, as sales of lipstick rose 5.9% to $670.3 million. Lipgloss slipped 6% to $148 million—but it appears shoppers still want to define the mouth as lipliner sales increased 1.5% to $65.5 million. Lip treatment sales soared 93.4% to $12.1 million—underscoring the fact that tinted balms are still hot right now. Mass market nail polish sales fell 15.4% to $633.3 million, according to IRI.
The eye cosmetics sector as a whole dipped 1.9% to $2.08 billion; this includes accessories like false lashes and makeup applicators. Eyeliner sales slipped 7% to $574.1 million, eyeshadow sales declined 7.4% to $300.9 million while mascara fell 2.4% to $917.6 million. However, eyebrow makeup soared 29% to $253.7 million; groomed brows were big on the runways at NYFW.
“Today’s makeup customer is more savvy than ever. With so much information and education available on social media and other outlets, today’s makeup wearer has the ability to research product and share information more easily with others,” said James Vincent, makeup artist and director of education and artist relations at The Makeup Show, New York.
“The ability to share information has created a much more knowledgeable community that takes full advantage of purchasing makeup online. Brick and mortar stores like Sephora have also created a culture of choice. People are more accustomed to finding color and complexion products that truly suit their needs.”
According to Vincent, women want a makeup product that fits their look and lifestyle and offers highly pigmented high performance options that meet the needs of their demanding day to day schedules and meets the technological accuracy of their Instagram selfies.
Kirstin Ratcliffe, merchant, makeup division, Birchbox, New York, agreed with Vincent that marketing is key in moving color cosmetics.
“We’ve seen a larger shift toward multifunctional products that simplify routine, include benefits and are natural and ingredient-focused,” she told Happi. “In terms of where customers are going to find the latest beauty products, a lot of consumers are turning to their social channels (primarily Instagram), blogs, beauty news sites and beauty subscription services like Birchbox to help them cut through the clutter.”
All About Eyes
For 2017, the cosmetic trend is all about color and texture, according to Vincent. For example, glitters, gloss and metallic makeup options have made their way from the red carpet and the runway to everyday—as seen at Maybelline New York’s recent launch, Metallic Sunset eye makeup.
“We were really inspired by the speed of New York and the motion,” said Maybelline New York global makeup artist Erin Parsons. The look includes Lasting Drama Waterproof Gel Pencil in Striking Copper; Color Tattoo Liquid Eye Chrome in Bronze Sheen and Silver Spark; ExpertWear Eyeshadow Singles in NY Silver; and Color Sensational the Inti-Matte Nudes in Purely Nude.
Sephora’s Cooling Tinted Eye Primer is a creamy eyeshadow primer that keeps eyes cool while providing hours of crease-free wear. It comes in a range of five neutral shimmer and matte shades that can be used alone for subtle color, or under eyeshadow to lock down color. Meanwhile, Sephora’s Colorful Waterproof Liquid Liner provides waterproof, intense pigment and vibrancy with a handle that allows for an easy application, according to the company. Liners are available in eight matte and shimmer shades that will last all day.
Make Up Forever’s new Aqua XL Color Paint promises “a blendable, ultra-pigmented, cream shadow with waterproof wear and 24-hour staying power.” It is available in 20 shades including matte, lustrous and iridescent finishes. Aqua XL can be worn alone as a shadow, as a liner, or as an eyeshadow. The formula includes mango butter, silicone oil and microspheres to keep pigment in place.
Make the night shine with L’Oréal Paris’ Infallible Eye Paints Metallic. The bold pigmented eyeshadow emits a metallic finish that stands out in a crowd, said the company. These eyeshadows come in five shades that can be mixed for a variety of standout looks.
MAC Cosmetics is upping the ante for mascara this Fall. Bold & Bad Lash is said to create a 360-degree lash look from top to bottom with a dual chamber package. It contains a brush for upper lashes, a brush for lower lashes and different formulas for each.
To achieve a dramatic eye, look no further than Ardell. Known for faux lashes and other cosmetic accessories, the brand is expanding into makeup with Beauty Wispies Mascara and Double Up Volumizing Mascara. Wispies is a one-step process that provides a perfect feathery look. The Double Up Volumizing Mascara helps create the look of false lashes with a two-step brush. This unique double cap provides volume and thickness. The middle cap helps double the volume of the lashes, while the next cap stops clumping.
For a strong brow, check out Ardell’s Beauty Stroke of Brow Feathering Pen. The pen helps create the look of a natural brow with a fine and tapered precision tip. Ardell promises smudge-free, all-day wear with this four-shade pen.
Grande Cosmetics’ new two-step dual system includes GrandePrimer, a white pre-mascara eyelash lengthener and thickener to be followed by GrandeMascara. Together, they are said to create extreme volume and an instant false lash look. The formula includes a peptide that is water resistant and easily removable.
Palladio Beauty’s Twisted in Love Mascara is perfect for achieving high volume and definition. The bottle is equipped with a “twisted” heart-shaped brush with an elongated bristle comb; it coats and defines lashes for a full look. The mascara contains panthenol, bayberry fruit extract (which conditions) and bamboo extract to strengthen and thicken.
Mass market shoppers can bring lashes to their full potential with CoverGirl’s Total Tease Mascara. According to the company, this mascara was built to avoid clumps and “perfectly fanout” lashes while still holding volume. The brush contains a teasing comb at the tip to remove any clumped lashes and create detail while in use. CoverGirl’s new mascara will give “control to create your best lashes conveniently at home,” said the company.
This season, bright pops of color have their place on eyes, lips and cheeks, said Vincent of The Makeup Show. For example, Estée Lauder’s new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Mattes is a collection of three lip-sculpting metallic finishes infused with luminous, provocative color. Formulas contain hyaluronic acid and a Moisture Complex. From amped up nudes to vamped up violets, lips are transformed with impactful bold color in three lip-sculpting, multifaceted matte finishes.
Revlon’s Stay Matte Liquid Lip Color is lightweight and highly pigmented, with 12 hours of kiss-proof staying power, according to the company. The waterproof and touch-proof formulas have a velvety finish and come in a variety of matte shades to complement any skin tone.
Want more staying power? Maybelline New York SuperStay Matte Ink liquid lipstick promises to last 16 hours. The arrow applicator delivers clean, dispersed and even lip color application in just one step. Shades include Voyager, Escapist, Believer, Creator, Romantic, Heroine, Pioneer, Lover, Dreamer and Loyalist.
Inspired by global trends, Revlon’s Lustrous Lipstick Street Chic formula is loaded with essential oils and moisturizers to glide on and stay on. Revlon promises a look that will be saturated with smooth and luscious high impact color. The collection features six new shades for Fall 2017.
Full color in one swipe is what Palladio Beauty promises with its 4 Ever + Ever Intense Lip Paint. Said to provide a long-lasting shine in a creamy application, the formula includes aloe vera extract and coconut oil to hydrate and moisturize. The paint is available in 12 shades.
Stop chapped lips without sacrificing color. Eve Lom launched Kiss Mix Color, a lightly tinted lip balm ideal for a subtle splash of color this summer. Kiss Mix Color is available in three shades of pink: Demure, Cheeky and Lippy.
For women who love lipstick but not the cakey texture of a stick, L’Oréal Paris has rolled out Pro-Matte Liquid Lipstick. The formula promises a 24-hour lock-on color that won’t bleed or wipe off. Also in the matte collection is the L’Oréal Paris Infallible Paints Matte; this non-bleeding formula ranges from a beaming hot pink to foil-inspired silver.
Put your best pout forward with Hourglass’ Confession; this brand recently made headlines when it was acquired by Unilever as its first prestige color company. The new ultra slim high intensity lipstick is refillable and designed to be used interchangeably with the entire collection of confession ultra slim lipstick refills. The lipsticks are said to deliver a saturated, long lasting color with a satin finish. The Confession collection contains nude, mauve, pink, berry and red shades.
Next for Nails
New this fall, Dermelect Cosmeceuticals’ Completely Classic Collection is ideal for a standout manicure. The collection includes six rich and subdued colors: All The Envy, a bright chartreuse; Phenom, Egyptian blue; To The Core, russet copper; Debonnaire, opaque nude; and Kiss ‘ME’, a velvet crimson. All colors are 5-Free, peptide-infused, and formulated to provide a long-lasting, manicure.
“Thought the 90’s were over? As if!” is the tagline for the new Essie Fall 2017 Collection. This six-shade collection has colors that range from light baby pink to saturated dark purple to a deep wine red. The set will be available in both enamel and gel forms.
Now launching at Anthropologie, Londontown is bringing its eco-conscious products to stores. It will now be selling its 9-free polish which is infused with a blend of all-natural vitamins and minerals to help nails grow stronger. The polish also contains evening primrose oil, which promises to moisturize nails and prevent polish from chipping, as well as cucumber, chamomile, calcium and vitamins E and B7.
This fall, journey to the magical land of blue lagoons and Northern Lights with the Iceland Collection by OPI. Featuring a palette inspired by the country’s scenic, varied landscape of volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, lava fields and glaciers, this collection offers a range of captivating, chic hues that capture Iceland’s beauty.
The collection features 12 shades in classic OPI Nail Lacquer, Long-Wear Infinite Shine and GelColor formulas, with colors inspired by the country’s unspoiled, otherworldly terrain. Stunning moss-covered lava fields, black sand beaches and vast mountain ranges with unique volcanic rock formations lend themselves to shades of chocolate browns, dark gray and khaki green. Water—in the form of hot springs, waterfalls and icebergs—and open, expansive skies inspire rich hues of blue ranging from sparkling jewel-tones to cooler blue-grays. Lingering sunsets yield an array of hues, from orange clay and wine red to shimmering mauve and various tones of purple—including dusky violet, berry and deep eggplant-gray.
“Iceland is quickly rising to the top of everyone’s ‘must-see’ list, thanks to its unparalleled landscapes, diverse food culture and unique fashion,” states OPI co-founder and brand ambassador Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “In designing the colors for the Iceland Collection, I was, of course, inspired by the country’s rugged, natural beauty—from the rare northern lights to majestic glaciers, Iceland is unlike anywhere else in the world! I also turned to its largest city Reykjavik for inspiration; in this creative mecca, women embrace self-expression with distinctively individual styles. The food scene is equally exciting, featuring fresh ingredients and blending traditional cuisine with imaginative new concepts.”
But Iceland wasn’t Weiss-Fischmann’s only inspiration.
“This fall, black is the new black. Expect to see lots of varied hues of this classic shade, with sophisticated undertones of brown and gray, as well as blue hues, with denim remaining a major trend. With the Iceland Collection by OPI, consumers have many options, from high-fashion shades of blue-gray, khaki green and orange clay to updated timeless deep, dark hues of blue, black, brown and berry.”
Color authorities Crayola and Sally Hansen have joined forces to offer a bright, bold and fun suite of limited edition hues that dry in 60 seconds. The new Sally Hansen + Crayola Insta-Dri Collection transports you back to that care-free time of coloring with crayons, sketching out vibrant creations and jumping back into the September back-to-school season. The 3-in-1 formula features a built-in base and top coat to provide shiny, extended wear in a single stroke. From a saturated red to a marvelously mod white, all looks are covered. Last year, Crayola teamed up with Clinique for a lip pencil launch, as reported in Happi.
A Fresh Foundation
According to Craig-Ryan French, creative beauty director and global artist, Paul & Joe Beaute, Paris, France, the hottest trend right now is “Photoshopped Perfection”—perfect lips, perfect brows, perfect foundation and perfect cheek bones. Ironically, on the runways, he saw an “obvious backlash” to this over-groomed, Instagram perfection.
“There was a very traditional Parisienne approach to makeup on the runways this season,” he told Happi. “French women tend to take a simpler approach to their beauty regime—beautiful skin, very little foundation, perhaps a little highlight for radiance.”
To start the glow, he suggested Paul & Joe Moisturizing Primer.
Another path to flawless skin is Laura Geller’s Filter Corrector Color Correcting Balm. The compact contains three different shades that tackle all complexion concerns. Correct redness with the green shade, hide dull skin with blue, and spot correct dark circles and hyperpigmentation with peach.
Created for all skin types, Palladio wants to help stop the signs of aging. The brand’s range of products include antioxidants, natural humectants and skin soothers such as vitamins E and C, shea butter, ginseng, gingko biloba, green tea and aloe vera, as well as natural oils including grapeseed, argan, safflower seed, sunflower seed oil and coconut oil. Under Eyes Disguise Full-Coverage Concealer will even out skin tone, cover imperfections and conceal undereye circles. The I’m Glowing Illuminating Primer is a pearly-pink primer that features three reflection pearls to create a glow and boost a foundation. The Definer Highlight & Contour Palette sculpts and highlights facial features.
The compact features three contour shades and three highlight shades. The Pressed Rice Powder and Mattifying Rice Primer helps makeup last longer and keep skin silky smooth. The primer reduces the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and pores when worn under foundation.
Lightweight and light-infused, Veil Cosmetics created The Magic Hour, which includes Sunset Light, a light Infused primer, serum and mixing base to create a “sunset effect.” Veil’s Complexion Fix is a full-face corrector, concealer and highlighter that brightens and moisturizes as it works. Finally, Sunset Skin is a whipped foundation that highlights skin as if it has been covered in a sunset glow.
CoverGirl’s Outlast All-Day Soft Touch Concealer promises 12 hours of medium to full coverage and a matte effect for an all-day look. Products include an angled applicator for easy application and Outlast All-Day Matte Finishing Powder. Maintaining a matte look while staying soft, the powder absorbs all excess oil from the skin. The water-resistant powder locks in makeup and allows for full, all-day coverage.
Guerlain’s new Meteorites Anniversary collection includes Babyglow Touch, an easy-to-use strobing cream that provides perfect radiance and is available in Rosy Glow and Golden Glow shades. Meanwhile, the Meteorites Birthday Candle Pearls come in an array of large pink, gold, and white pearls that brighten the skin and create a subtle glow.
Turn back time with Revlon’s Youth FX Fill + Blur collection. The products promise to instantly transform the appearance of lines and wrinkles. The Youth FX line has targeted products, from forehead to neck, to be used in combination or alone to treat and beautify concern areas.
According to Revlon, the formula’s unique combination of soft focus powders scatters light, blurring wrinkles and making them less visible.
La Roche-Posay is known for its sensitive skin care formulas. Now, the L’Oréal unit is rolling out a highly-anticipated collection of cosmetics to the US. The launch includes two products under the Toleriane franchise, two Respectissime mascaras and a makeup remover.
La Roche-Posay’s makeup range originated in France in 1994 by La Roche-Posay Laboratories founder René Levayer. To make his vision come to life, Levayer teamed up with makeup artist Alain Barthélémy to creat the first complexion corrector tolerated by sensitive skin. This collaboration also led to the creation of the Corrective Make-up Workshop at the La Roche-Posay Thermal Center that aims to restore a woman’s confidence. Products include Toleriane Teint Mousse, Toleriane Teint Correcting Pen and more.
Next year, fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld will team with ModelCo to launch the Karl Lagerfeld + ModelCo color collection, which will have a range of different color cosmetic products.
“This super fun, highly coveted and collectible collection will combine our high-quality formulas and innovative, technical packaging with Lagerfeld’s unmistakable artistic aesthetic that’s sophisticated, modern and cool,” explained Shelley Sullivan, founder and CEO of ModelCo.
French of Paul & Joe views the 1980s as a rising trend in 2018.
“All one has to do was look at Chanel, Louis Vuitton and the Spring colors and placement seen on the models at Kenzo and Max Mara!” he said. “Expect fuller, more natural looking brows and bold color blush returning to contour the face!”
“Color keeps coming up in unexpected ways for 2018 and beyond,” noted Vincent. “The rules that once applied to makeup are gone.”
Additional reporting by Alexandra Davies, editorial assistant.
• A favorite of top editors, photographers and personal artist to Gigi Hadid, Erin Parsons is celebrated for her inspired editorial work and bold beauty looks. In her new role as global makeup artist at Maybelline New York, Parsons will provide artistic vision for makeup, key fashion shows and be lead artist on all Maybelline New York campaign shoots.
“We are incredibly excited to partner with Erin Parsons,” said Leonardo Chavez, global brand president, Maybelline New York. “Erin is highly creative, inventive and embodies the Maybelline New York energy and edge in her artistry. Erin is known for her passion for artistic experimentation that results in bold, modern looks that are highly aspirational for our consumers to make their own.”
Parsons joins an impressive lineup of makeup artists, photographers, and models who have helped shape the identity of the iconic Maybelline New York beauty brand.
“As a child, I remember seeing Maybelline ads in magazines, tearing them out and hanging them on my wall, because they allowed me to dream. Today, in the digital age, not only can we create aspirational artistry but we have the ability to teach it,” said Parsons. “I am so excited to officially be a part of the Maybelline family, and together, we will create makeup artistry that will inspire a whole new generation to dream.”
Parsons grew up in a small town in Ohio where she focused her passions and began her career in makeup artistry behind the counter revamping, educating and inspiring her customers through the power of makeup. After setting her sights on New York, Parsons began assisting world-renowned artists which found her working at fashion shows around the globe and she met Maybelline New York spokesmodel, Gigi Hadid. They collaborated on their first shoot in December 2015. Parsons has created memorable campaigns for Maybelline New York, Vogue Eyewear, Reebok and Tommy Hilfiger and created looks for designer shows including Jonathan Simkhai and La Perla.
• The queen of American fashion, Vogue’s Anna Wintour, proclaimed Pat McGrath “the most influential makeup artist in the world.” The visionary force behind Pat McGrath Labs as well as P&G global creative design director was also the first makeup artist to receive the CFDA Founder’s Award at an event in June in New York City.
The Founder’s Award was established in memory of CFDA founder Eleanor Lambert and is awarded to a person for his or her unique contribution to the world of fashion and/or deserving of industry recognition. Lambert, who founded the CFDA in 1962, was a pioneer in bringing American fashion and fashion designers to their present international stature.
“Pat is the first makeup artist to receive a CFDA Fashion Award. By bestowing upon her the prestigious Founder’s Award in honor of Eleanor Lambert, the CFDA is putting a spotlight on the behind-the-scenes talent that is so critical to the creative process,” said Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).
McGrath’s arrival onto the fashion scene in the 90s began with a fateful introduction to the renowned photographer, Steven Meisel, by supermodel Amber Valletta, who presented this year’s award to McGrath along with Karen Elson. This introduction would lead to a longstanding personal and professional relationship that continues to this day—Meisel rarely shoots without McGrath. McGrath’s mastery and incomparable vision have transformed the beauty industry, raising the bar to a level of luxury, quality and artistry never before seen.
She pioneered the trend for dewy skin in the 90s, introduced bold color into the everyday makeup palette, and experimented with unconventional materials like gemstones, feathers, fabric and even gold splinters. The results were both eclectic and electrifying. She has reimagined the bold eyebrow, matte skin and endless details that define beauty.
Past recipients of the Founder’s Award have included Donna Karan, Millard “Mickey” Drexler, Bethann Hardison, Oscar de la Renta, Andrew Rosen, Hal Rubenstein, Tonne Goodman and more.