Bid farewell to caked-up liquid eyeshadows, heavy waxed lipsticks or clown-like magenta blush rings forever. The modern made-up face is all about freshness for Fall 2020 and beyond with primed, glowing skin, shimmering eyelids and enhanced lashes and brows.

Extensive, product-heavy makeup routines in place before the pandemic are unlikely to be continued by adults working from home or by those limiting face-to-face interactions, noted Clare Hennigan, senior beauty analyst, Mintel, Chicago, IL. However, this does not mean adults are entirely apathetic toward their appearance, especially considering the reliance on video conferencing.

“Grooming rituals and taking pride in one’s appearance are crucial to self-esteem, and can help provide a feeling of normalcy during this extremely uncertain time. To satisfy those needs, while keeping in-mind the preference for low maintenance routines, we expect to see an increase in hybrid makeup/skincare products,” Hennigan told Happi. “The fusion between makeup and skin care has been gaining momentum in recent years due to ‘no makeup makeup’ trends and a desire for products with added benefits. With limited interactions outside the home, products that give the appearance of makeup while providing skin care-like benefits will experience increased demand.”

Facial cosmetic sales slipped 9.7% to $1.9 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended April 19, 2020. Eye cosmetics sales dipped 5.2% to $1.96 billion and lip cosmetics slipped 7.5% to $811.5 million. However, nail cosmetics rose 7.4% to $1.5 billion, according to IRI.


Sign of the Times

The world has changed dramatically during the past several months due to COVID-19. As a result, “In color cosmetics, we are seeing a big shift to anything above the mask line,” explained Jamie Glassman, CEO, One Click b.eauty, NY,

“Eye cosmetics including shadow, liner, mascara and brow are all popular categories. We are also seeing a trend in finishing mists and non-transfer finishing products as people do not want to see their makeup all over their mask at the end of the day.”

One Click b.eauty, a new indie cosmetics brand, debuted in April 2020 and celebrates “empowerment” with accessible, high-performance beauty kits debuting at a time when people are in need of a daily pick-me-up.

This digitally driven indie brand aims to provide a quick, easy, confidence-boosting beauty ritual with on-the-go (or on-the-stay) color cosmetics for anyone seeking ease and affordability—each kit will retail for $24. One Click b.eauty unveiled its cruelty-free lip and eye kits in two curated collections—b.active lip and eye kits and b.seductive lip and eye kits.

On its launch day, One Click b.eauty rolled out a social campaign—#FaceTheWeek. According to the company, this small act of self-love and self-care is at the brand’s core as it is aligning with organizations that support and empower women in everyday life via a “buy-one-give-one” donation effort for kits sold on Amazon this month.

It hasn’t been easy for makeup marketers the past few months, but technology has been helpful.

“Like every other industry the cosmetic industry has had to shift and adjust to the new world we are living in. At the start of COVID-19, people were certainly wearing less makeup and we saw this reflected in the sales numbers. Without anywhere to go people took a break from their daily makeup routines,” Glassman observed. “For the first time in a long time, the industry had to shift communication and be extremely sensitive to what was happening around it. The role of the influencer was and still is being reevaluated as to how and where we communicate with potential consumers. We saw the hesitation from brands to communicate with consumers across many industries not only beauty, as was reflected in the fact that media viewership was up, but ad spend was down across the board.”

Glassman added, “As things have started to open up and people are going outside more we are seeing a shift back toward makeup. Subtle looks will be the first to come back and then we expect to see more drastic eye looks become popular as people start to go back to some of their routines but in a mask. Shoppers have turned to online outlets for their beauty needs.”

Susan Sterling, color marketing director, Avon, New York, agreed that while consumers want to look good for Zoom calls, they are also using makeup as a “pick me up” and to feel a bit more normal.

“It’s an instant mood booster and helps them get into a routine. Another key element of makeup seems to be creating a healthy glow and a uniform looking skin for Zoom meetings,” she told Happi.

Cushion compacts are going to get some love, literally speaking, this season as Avon will launch a color line, FMG, Colors of Love. The cushion compacts include blushers, highlighters and illuminating bronzers made with moisturizing hyaluronic acid, water lily and other flower extracts.

“Ingredient-driven formulas in color are really the way of the future and the cushion form lends itself to being able to include these liquid formulas that contain really skin caring benefits in them in the most modern delivery system,” explained Sterling.

For the upcoming season, it’s all about the eye category, observed Jenn Kapahi, co-founder and CEO of TreStiQue, New York.

“Typically if they wear makeup and go out they will now wear a mask which of course covers most of your face—so the eyes are key.” she said. “We see a big uptick in our shadow crayons which of course, highlight the eye area. As a result, our topsellers are now out of stock. Eye liner, mascara and brow are close behind the shadow since having your eyes done are the most noticeable thing when on a Zoom conference or when you step out to the market with a mask on.”

Kapahi added that additionally her beauty company is seeing customers shifting away from full coverage foundation to a lighter coverage for their “WFH” lifestyle.

“Our Tinted Face stick has also seen an uptick because it offers a lighter tinted moisturizer coverage,” she said. “Customers are looking for products that make them feel and look more awake and rested and also natural at the same time.”

Aside from online shopping, beauty companies such as Glamsquad report customers are maximizing their trip to the drugstore by picking up beauty essentials along with other critical items at stores like CVS.

“We have seen a rise in the sales of our GSQ by Glamsquad line at CVS,” explained Kelli J. Bartlett, artistic makeup director, Glamsquad, New York. “Also, people are going back to basics and realizing their virtual meetings are a bit more forgiving, so they’re focusing on products that make the most impact when aiming to look presentable quickly. For example, products like bronzer or concealer help you feel your best.”

Overall, it’s all about multi-tasking products right now, according to Sébastien Tardif, creator/CEO, Veil Cosmetics, Montréal.

“Quick and easy ways to look great without much effort and remain comfortable while doing so are big for 2020. It’s all about high impact products like concealer, for instance, to instantly brighten the eyes and spot concealing little imperfections in minutes. Mascara is definitely a must and a quick sweep of color on the lips and cheeks at your fingertips.”


Leading Launches

Maybelline is bursting with cosmetic creations this summer. The new Maybelline New York Color Strike Eyeshadow Pen offers crease-proof color in one stroke. Its first cream-to-powder shadow pen allows up to 12-hour wear with zero fall-out. The full coverage pigments provide crease-resistant, bold color. Color Strike features a cushion-tip applicator that allows smooth glide and even application without the mess. It is available in 10 shades including Crave, Tempt, Charm, Spark, Flash, Rally, Chase, Hustle, Flare and Ace. Finishes include metallic/shimmer and matte.

Cult-favorite Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Mascara delivers supple, separated, and fully fanned out volume. Reinvigorated with new packaging, Maybelline introduced a new shade, Midnight Black, that’s infused with rose hip oil to deliver extra conditioned lashes that never feel weighed down. It is also available in existing shades waterproof Very Black + Brownish Black, and washable Blackest Black, Very Black and Brownish Black.

Other innovations at Maybelline include Glass Spray, an ultra-dewy finishing spray that provides a hydrated skin look and glassy finish. Glass Spray’s bi-phase formula contains 65% water and 35% oil for an instantly hydrated look and glassy shine that lasts all day. Its optimal cloud-mist spray pattern ensures an even application, without disrupting makeup.

Also new is Lifter Gloss, Maybelline’s first gloss infused with hyaluronic acid that features an extra-large wand that drenches lips for pigmented shine. It is available in 10 shades from sheer to creamy finishes including Pearl, Ice, Moon, Silk, Petal, Reef, Amber, Stone, Topaz and Crystal.

Just in time for summer weather, Covergirl rolled out Exhibitionist Lid Paint. Available in both bold and neutral shades, Covergirl Exhibitionist Lid Paint has a lasting impact to keep the shadow in place throughout the day. Exhibitionist is water-, crease- and fade-proof, and easily blendable in eight shade options, according to the company.

Complementing the long-wear eyeshadow is an all-day lip color line. The CoverGirl Outlast UltiMatte Liquid Lipstick Nine to Wine collection is a highly pigmented liquid lip line inspired by the hues of vino.

In other news, Covergirl also added two products to its recently launched Clean Fresh collection—Clean Fresh Pressed Powder and Clean Fresh Hydrating Concealer. The collection is formulated without ingredients like talc, parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates mineral oil and sulfates. Clean Fresh Pressed Powder absorbs oil and delivers natural-looking skin with a healthy look.

Formulated with tapioca and aloe vera powder, Clean Fresh powder does not cake and delivers a long-lasting finish, according to the brand. The product comes with a vegan foam puff. Clean Fresh Hydrating Concealer is infused with coconut milk and aloe extracts. It comes in 14 shades and is designed to blur imperfections and even discoloration. The applicator is intended for more targeted coverage and blending.

L’Oréal Paris is upgrading some classics and expanding its color cosmetic portfolio. Offering luxuriously rich, satin lipstick since 1985, the iconic Color Riche Satin Lipstick Collection was reinvigorated with 10 new shades (making it 52 in total). According to the company, every lipstick not only delivers the richest color, but offers utmost care with enriching and conditioning ingredients for better lips with every stroke. The formula’s intense nourishment continues to condition and soften lips even after color is removed, resulting in beautiful lips that are kept soft, smooth and hydrated.

Meanwhile, L’Oréal’s Bambi Eye Extra Noir Mascara’s formula was updated to include ultra-black pigments for a more intense lash look, fillers to increase the amount of formula deposited on lashes and pearls to add reflect and luminosity. The Wide-Eyed Brush fits eye shape to coat each lash from inner to outer corner, while its mix of long and short bristles work to separate lash by lash for defined lashes. It is available in five additional shades spanning from Black Brown to Blackest Black.

Earlier in 2020, L’Oréal Paris named women’s rights activist Jaha Dukureh as its new international spokesperson. She is a UN Goodwill Ambassador for Africa, Nobel Peace Prize nominee, a Time’s 100 most influential person and the first honoree of L’Oréal Paris’ Women of Worth program to become a global ambassador for the company. The activist will star in the first Color Riche campaign later this year.


A Pop of Color

Other leading makeup brands are rolling out unique creations for the season. For example, Mary Kay’s Unlimited Lip Gloss is a new generation of ultra-silky gloss. According to the company, it is a non-sticky, non-tacky, perfectly shiny solution. Featuring patent-pending high shine and high moisturization technology, Mary Kay’s Unlimited Lip Gloss contains ingredients designed to condition lips, to leave them looking healthy. This lightweight, non-sticky formula glides on with zero drag as it enhances lips with a continuous layer of color and pure, elegant shine. The applicator’s unique reservoir picks up and distributes the perfect amount of product with every silky swipe. It is available in 14 shades.

NYX Professional Makeup SFX Face And Body Paint are pigment-packed palettes feature six buildable creams that set to a dry long-wearing finish. Whether one is in the mood for primary or bright colors, the cream makeup palettes make creating special effects easier than ever, according to the brand.

The latest creation at e.l.f. Cosmetics is its Retro Paradise Collection, designed in partnership with e.l.f.’s 2019 Beautyscape winners Alissa Holmes, Diana Curmei, Elicia Aragon, Jessa Green and Valeria Loren. The Beautyscape competition, which took place in November 2019, offered up-and-coming influencers and content creators the chance to land a career-making opportunity.

Inspired by “the vibrant culture, sunset-hues, iridescent textures, tropical fruit and the beach lifestyle of the Bahamas,” the collection includes beauty SKUs for glowing skin, glistening lips and a laid-back, tropical paradise-inspired look, according to the brand. It includes a range of products across the eyes, lips and face categories, and prioritizes e.l.f.’s values of products that are 100% cruelty-free and vegan. The 11-piece collection ranges from $5-20 and is available on elfcosmetics.com and at Target.

Move over, millennial pink...purple’s the new hue. Meet the new Urban Decay Naked Ultraviolet Eyeshadow Palette, a burst of 12 highly saturated purple neutrals that add a powerful pop of color to any eye look. This bold ode to Urban Decay’s signature color is the definition of what UD stands for, according to the company, and takes 1990s nostalgia to the next level. With the combo of metallics, mattes and shimmers, there’s something for everyone and every occasion in this eyeshadow set.

The latest makeup creation at SeneGence for Summer 2020 is the new Color Surge ShadowSense Collection. Options span from a shimmery violet fuschia to a vibrant metallic green. This limited-edition range features four bright shades in both shimmering and matte textures. The products are “long-lasting, versatile with skin-benefiting ingredients, and smudge and crease-proof,” according to SeneGence, which is ranked No. 23 in Happi’s The Top 50.

Also out for fall is Clinique’s Moisture Surge Pop Triple Lip Balm, which is comprised of three core layers; the inner core provides the main color, the middle core provides the balm and the outer core provides the gloss. According to the company, the formula is loaded with aloe-butter and other “lip loving ingredients” like vitamin E.


A Bright Outlook

The arrival of COVID-19 will accelerate the demand for clean cosmetics. According to Hennigan of Mintel, consumers are more focused on their health and safety than ever before, leading to increased scrutiny over ingredients used in cosmetics. As a result, consumers will expect brands to be transparent about ingredient sourcing and the production process to ensure products are clean and safe.

“The demand for ‘clean’ formulations will extend to packaging as well, leading to an increase in ‘touchless’ products,” she told Happi. “As consumers become more aware about viruses and germs living on surfaces (including hands and cosmetics), spray and stick formats that eliminate the need to touch one’s face will stand out.”

Technology helps personalize the shopping experience and alleviates the physical element of trial. According to Hennigan, even before the outbreak, beauty retailers Ulta and Sephora offered virtual product try-on tools as a way to engage customers. Glossier announced in April its plans to launch Glossier Live Edit, a new video chat program where visitors can connect virtually with a Glossier team member one to one, helping replicate the in-store “sales associate” experience.

“Looking ahead, expect more retailers to invest in technology as a way to offer safe product trial, and engage customers with virtual face-to-face interactions,” Hennigan said.

Bartlett of Glamsquad added that, of course, eye makeup will be on the rise for later in 2020 as eyes are the most visible feature on a mask-wearer.

“From a lip trend perspective, people will opt for hydrating and protecting lip products,” she said. “We are seeing a shift away from heavy, full coverage foundations and powders because we already have something on our face that is preventing breathability. Getting all glammed up feels like a chore right now, so if people are going to make an effort, they want it to be an enhancement of their natural features.”

Tardif of Veil Cosmetics agreed that “no makeup makeup” will be “huge” now that consumers have found more effective ways to get ready and allocate the extra time to personal endeavors or just some much-needed sleep in the morning.

“I think that a lot of women have enjoyed the fresher lightweight makeup look and have become more appreciative and accepting of their skin and skin care,” he said. “After years of heavy, drag-like makeup, it is a welcomed change.” 

Makeup Moves Inside the Mouth! • Chro-m Toothpolish is a new launched that’s described as “nail polish for your teeth.” Developed by dentists, Chro-m Toothpolish lets users match their smile to their makeup for the day. This patented polish comes in a variety of shades and styles to paint one, two, or all of your teeth at a time. Whether you’re looking for an instant pearly white glow-up, a grille, or a fashionable gap tooth, Chro-m has a polish that promises semi-permanent style for up to 24 hours of wear. The product can be painted on and chipped off in a matter of seconds for ease of use and versatility, and its flavor-free formula makes it ideal for any occasion, according to the company. Chro-m Toothpolish is available in a variety of colors and styles, including sparkle and blacklight. The silver glitter polish uses a non-plastic, plant-based glitter formula made from Eucalyptus cellulose. According to the company, Chro-m Toothpolish is non-toxic, vegan, cruelty-free, safe to use on teeth and dental work, and safe for all ages.

Feeling Blue • A timeless and enduring blue hue, the Pantone Color of the Year for 2020—Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue—is elegant in its simplicity. Suggestive of the sky at dusk, the reassuring qualities of this thought-provoking blue highlight a desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era, said the company. “We are living in a time that requires trust and faith. It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue we can always rely on…a boundless blue evocative of the vast and infinite evening sky,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, Carlstadt, NJ. For more than 20 years, Pantone’s Color of the Year has influenced product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including fashion, home furnishings and industrial design, as well as product packaging and graphic design. Influences may also stem from new technologies, materials, textures and effects that impact color, relevant social media platforms and even upcoming sporting events that capture worldwide attention. Expect to see this color especially in eyeshadow and eyeliner offerings.