Melissa Meisel, Senior Editor02.01.23
scalp health and curl care are at the forefront of 2023 hairstyling trends, as seen with recent rollouts of sprays, serums and other hair treatments. Clean beauty formulations are also of interest to consumers seeking more natural components and sustainable packaging. In short, healthy hair can start with the hairstyling products used daily.
In fact, as salon clients want to replicate the volume achieved by their stylists at home, sales of volumizing products increased by an average of nearly 12% in the US, according to recent data from Kline. Texturizing product sales are also picking up, increasing almost 3% in the past year, according to report author Paula Gottdiner, project manager, consumer reports at Kline.
Mass market hairstyling gel and mousse sales increased 5.3% to $1.1 billion, while hair spray and spritz jumped 15.8% to $650.6 million, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2022. For market leaders in both categories, check out the detailed chart here.
Hair is the only category with a “nearly even channel split” between in-store and online sales, found The NPD Group for the third quarter of 2022. Total hair care sales rose 23% to $853.8 million in Q3, according to NPD.
As consumers continue to prioritize hair health, products with strengthening and restoration benefits are outpacing overall hair category growth. According to NPD, hair product sales continue to grow despite fewer promotions.
Heat protection is important when it comes to tools like blow dryers, flat irons and curling irons/wands, noted Nicole Epps, scientist and scientific communications manager for P&G Hair, Cleveland, OH. She cites Aussie’s Total Miracle Heat Protecting Spray—infused with apricot and Australian macadamia oil—as a popular hair care product within the P&G styling portfolio. The Heat Protecting Spray acts as a barrier between hair and the heat of blow drying, straightening and curling.
TreSemmé Stylist, Texture Expert and Entrepreneur Nai’vasha often uses TreSemmé’s new One Step Styler Collection because each product offers a variety of benefits and works on a variety of hair types and needs.
“This has been a game-changer for not only TreSemmé and its consumers, but also for me as a celebrity hairstylist,” she told Happi. “It helps me save on styling time and speaks to a wide texture range and hair types.” Her favorite One Step Stylers are the One Step Curls Crème Gel and the One Step Blowout.
Smoothing and color care are also at the forefront of hairstyling product attributes right now. For example, at beauty brand R+Co, two new popular products are R+Co Zipper Multitasking Styling Lotion and Sunset Boulevard Blonde Toning Styling Crème. According to the company, Zipper Multitasking Styling Lotion is a frizz-fighting formula ideal for wet setting, wrapping and blow drying.
The fast-drying lotion bonds hair, leaving it less porous with sealed ends and shine, and leaving behind a warm scent of pineapple, tangerine, cardamom, lavender, bamboo and blonde woods. Rice bran extract helps texture and style, while rice seed protein helps strengthen weak hair. Liquid shea butter provides moisture and care to hair while black chia seed oil delivers flexibility, softness and shine.
Meanwhile, the R+Co Boulevard Blonde Toning Styling Crème includes a novel Violet R3 Flower Complex to correct unwanted yellow tones.
Two new Nexxus innovations recently rolled out exclusively on Amazon. Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream and Humectress 360°Perfector Spray are the latest innovations from the Nexxus portfolio to achieve salon-quality hair results, said the company.
The Nexxus Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream is a reparative fiber bonding product that repairs and prevents split ends. The Nexxus Humectress 360 Degree Perfector Spray is a leave-in multi-benefit perfecting treatment that is light, moisturizing and renewing for any hair texture, said Nexxus. It acts as a weightless barrier around every fiber of hair to protect against heat and styling damage.
Redken has completely redesigned its hairstyling portfolio. The modernized product names are highlighted in “eye-catching black sashes with a clear product descriptor,” while the old product names will be temporarily included on the new packaging to help consumers find favorites, noted the company.
While many products in the new packaging are already on shelves, Redken’s new look will continue rolling out in the coming months, added the company. The brand is also finding success with its Redken Volume Maximizer Thickening Spray, a lightweight volumizing spray that pumps up hair volume from root to tip.
Another L’Oréal-owned brand, Matrix, rolled out a new styling collection as well for 2023. New hair care products include hairspray gel and wax spray. The new Matrix Styling Collection is formulated with flexible polymers and conditioning agents to use regardless of hair type or texture, said the company. The six styling essentials are also 100% vegan. The new collection includes a Fixer Hairspray, Controller Gel, Over Achiever 3-in-1, Builder Wax Spray and Refresher Dry Shampoo.
Also new from Colorproof Texture Charge Defining Finishing Spray with a proprietary blend of polymers and white nettle said to allow particles to adhere to individual hair fibers to absorb excess oils while creating a charge that repels individual hair strands to boost volume, body and texture. The spray also contains organic ginseng and kukui nut oil.
NatureLab Tokyo recently launched Perfect Clean Style Refresher. Rice extract is a natural deodorizer that minimizes the need to shower to clean hair (and strip its color). Silica absorbs oil while shiso oil offers antimicrobial properties. Arrow root extract also targets oil and dirt. The launch follows a rice water-infused Perfect Clean Scalp Balancing Sake Rinse, which works to restore the scalp’s natural balance while removing product buildup and impurities for optimal scalp health, said the company.
Marty Harper, celebrity hairstyling and brand ambassador for NatureLab Tokyo, told Happi, “Style Refresher is truly a refresh. It’s basically that one product consumers can lean on to reboot hair.”
In addition to chic winter hairstyle trends, the beauty industry must consider the harsh conditions hair and scalp are subjected to in colder, drier, winter air. According to Philip Pelusi, a frequent contributor to Happi’s Expert Opinion column online, a hair nemesis is the winter hat.
“Hairstyles are easily destroyed while under any hat, crushing the hair as well as exacerbating static electricity caused by dry winter air and indoor heat. This is something our guests contend with each winter, so we offer seasonal solutions,” he told Happi. “Winter hats work well with current styling trends such as textured loose waves and high or low knots or buns, but it’s the post and preemptive use of moisture-binding ingredients that is the key to help prevent and stop static.”
According to Pelusi, almost 50 years ago his company started enhancing its formulations with the “still revolutionary moisture binding powerhouse” hyaluronic acid in its P2 by Philip Pelusi Deep Hydrating Treatment and P2 Lite Leave In Conditioner.
Epps of P&G shared with Happi that low lights and brunette hues always rise in the winter in hair color.
“Since coloring can tend to leave hair feeling rough and dry, Aussie Hair Insurance Leave-In Conditioner is an important SKU for the brand as it helps keep hair moisturized and also helps tame frizz,” she said.
The new Fekkai launches are powered by Solstice Propellant Technology, the first non-ozone depleting aerosol created to deliver a high-performance ultra-fine, non-flaking and quick-drying mist without compromising on environmental impact, said the company.
“We are the first luxury hair care brand to defy the gravity of performance by being sustainable, clean and highly effective,” said company founder Frederic Fekkai. “When the first electric cars were launched, they had very few clients. Today, Tesla, Audi and Porsche all have electric cars. In my view, we are the Tesla of sustainable hair care.”
In the indie category, vegan beauty brand Remilia Hair is seeing success with its Green Coco Hair Mask. Made locally in Los Angeles, the cruelty-free, bi-weekly treatment was designed to boost hair shine, manageability and improve hair’s long-term health. The product (pictured on this month’s cover of Happi) contains all-natural ingredients such as avocado oil and green tea extract. Hydrolyzed vegetable protein works to mimic the composition of hydrolyzed keratin to provide a sustainable solution to hydrate hair, said the indie beauty company.
According to the company, this hydrating leave-in strengthens and moisturizes—and while it’s designed specifically for curls, it can also be used on all hair “fabrics.”
“Adding to our KCTexture collection was important for us as its continues to support our messaging that Keratin Complex delivers beautiful hair every day to all hair fabrics and textures. Curly clients now have a curly keratin treatment and curl care collection, including this new product, that allows them to experience stronger, healthier and more hydrated curls,” Zoe Hyams, senior vice president, marketing and public relations, Keratin Complex, West Palm Beach, FL told Happi.
Curlsmith’s newest addition for textured hair is Full Body Thickening Lotion. This lightweight styler gives hair “life-proof” volume that lasts for 24+ hours, according to the company which was recently acquired by Helen of Troy. The formula is blended with a “hyper-branched” polymer that transforms hair fibers to create space between the strands while drying to give hair instant volume. With a blend of stimulating ginger, nettle leaves, dragon fruit and guarana extracts, this smooth lotion helps boost hair’s texture while hydrating and adding shine.
“The texture is super slippy, which is great for textured hair. It coats each strand like a leave-in conditioner. I layer it underneath my styling products so it feels like a primer pumping the volume up straight away,” said Jennie Roberts, celebrity hair stylist, textured hair educator and global senior hairstylist for Curlsmith, London. “I’ve been suffering from thinning hair for five years due to age and various stuff, so I’ve tried them all. While most thickening products can make hair sticky, dry or just super heavy, this lightweight formula will give you a great definition, creating space and volume between each curl.”
Mielle Organics recently made Happi headlines for its sale to P&G. According to recent Nielsen sales data, Mielle’s Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil now reigns as the best-selling product across the textured hair care category in the US. With one bottle sold every 15 seconds and more than 14k reviews on Amazon, Mielle’s award-winning oil has established a cult following of loyal customers from around the world.
From nourishing hair follicles, smoothing split ends and helping with a dry scalp, this hair oil features more than 30 essential oils and nutrients and is infused with biotin. Versatile in application, Mielle’s Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil can be applied to the scalp daily, integrated into specialized scalp treatments, enjoyed during a hot oil treatment or used for regular split end care. It is also formulated for all hair types and textures and is safe for chemically-treated hair.
“At Mielle, we take great pride in producing top quality, innovative and effective hair care products,” said Monique Rodriguez, founder of Mielle Organics, which was profiled as a leading indie brand in the January 2023 edition of Happi, which was published only days before the P&G deal was announced.
Also for textured hair, indie brand The Doux recently debuted the Bee Girl collection at Walmart. It includes cationic honey, which smooths the hair’s negatively-charged cuticle to boost shine, seal in moisture and fight frizz, acording to the company. The products are named for iconic hip-hop/R&B songs by legendary female artists such as the Mist Demeanor Honey Shine Mist, Push It! Braid & Edge Gel, Ladies First Honey Shampoo and more. It partnered with rapper Baby Tate for a TikTok campaign #ThisIsHowWeDouxIt at the end of 2022.
DevaCurl expands with The Mist of Wonders Leave-In Instant Multi-Benefit Curl Spray. According to the company, the hairstyling product is formulated with a 12-in-1 Nutri-Curl technology for all curl types. It moisturizes and reduces frizz by up to 85%, eases detangling by up to 85%, strengthens curls by up to 69%, protects hair up to 450° and is safe on color treated hair, said the company. A refillable pouch is also available for purchase to refill the spray bottle as needed for sustainability measures.
According to göt2b, its glued styling products (Blasting Freeze Spray and Spiking Glue) have been staples for performers, athletes, drag queens and the everyday consumer who wants lasting hold. Now, the brand is launching products specifically meant for protective styles such as wigs and extensions—Bonding Glue and (un)glued Flash Glue Remover. The Bonding Glue delivers invisible bonding for wigs and is gentle on the scalp while the Flash Glue Remover removes glue and conditions while it detangles.
According to Spate, consumers want to add volume to their hair, and are turning to volumizing mousse to make it happen. Related searches include best, curly hair, fine hair, plumping, short hair, drugstore and weightless.
The broad appeal of volumizing mousse is evident in related searches such as curly hair, fine hair and short hair —demonstrating that consumers seek a volumizing mousse that works for their hair types.
Searches for drugstore reveal that consumers may be price sensitive, so mousse affordability is key, said Spate in its report.
In Yelp’s 2023 trend report, the butterfly haircut—a term coined by celebrity stylist Sunnie Brook—is a new twist on once-popular Farrah Fawcett layers. Searches for “butterfly haircut” were up 55%, according to Yelp.
Across social media are various hair care remedies—think rice water, rosemary oil, scalp serums and other clean-beauty formulations designed to promote hair growth, conditioning and brilliant shine.
Some consumers look to Yelp for professional services that can help freshen up their locks. Searches for scalp treatments rose 74%, according to Yelp.
At New York Fashion Week’s Spring and Summer 2023 shows in New York City, a variety of unique hairstyles flooded the runways. Hair care brands were in-step innovating to create next-level products for smoothing strands, maintain hold and even curl care.
“We wanted to create different characters this season, and decided on an array of hair looks—from twisted, organic mohawks to natural waves and textured bobs—that would speak to this collection and celebration of individuality,” said designer Joseph Altuzarra about international hairstylist Jawara’s usage of Fekkai beauty products during his fashion show.
Looking into the crystal ball for 2024, global authority for consumer and design forecasting WGSN recently weighed in on the future of hair care.
As one of the best performing categories throughout the pandemic, the hair care industry is on the brink of a revolution, according to WGSN.
The expansion of hair care routines, hair “snacks” like color care mascaras and the “skinification” of the category is driving progress in bioengineering, sustainability and inclusivity.
Here are new hair care ingredients for your next formulation. For more information, contact the supplier in the listing.
www.coastsouthwest.com
sales@coastsouthwest.com
800-621-0500
CapilAcid
INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, leave-in, treatment masks, styling creams
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: CapilAcid is a natural, active ingredient for haircare derived from the Maqui berry, the most antioxidant fruit originating in Andean Patagonia. CapilAcid protects the lipids of the F-layer of the hair fiber which is responsible for maintaining hydrophobicity, low porosity, and hydration.
Extracell Plex
INCI: Saccharomyces Lysate
Applications:Shampoo, conditioner, leave-in, treatment masks, styling creams
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Extracell Plex is a biotechnological active obtained from the Malbec grape. It rebuilds, restores, and protects the hair architecture by providing low molecular weight yeast peptides that act to replace damaged keratin-associated proteins and provide extra protection to keratin and its disulfide bridges.
Glossamer L6600
INCI: Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Applications:Shampoo, conditioner, ethnic hair care products
Suggested Use Levels: 1-10%
Comments:Glossamer L6600 is a unique, bio-based, biodegradable polymer produced from purified oils. Its film-forming properties impart multiple benefits, including moisturization and water- and wear-resistance. Glossamer L6600 intensifies conditioning properties and enriches gloss and shine.
JD Lusteris
INCI: Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Alcohol (and) Propanediol (and) Tocopherol
Applications: Haircare, skincare, acne products, suncare, color cosmetics
Suggested Use Levels: 3-50%
Comments: A natural emollient derived from Jojoba oil, creating a biome-friendly alternative to nonvolatile low-viscosity silicones. This 100 percent oil-free emollient offers multifunctional benefits including hair and scalp protection, advanced sensory performance, sebum-control properties, and deep soothing effects. It is biodegradable, responsibly sourced, and eco-friendly.
www.jojobadesert.com
contacts@jojobadesert.com
Israel: +972-8-6473296
USA: 201-431-9800
JD Lusteris
INCI: Jojoba Esters, Jojoba Alcohol, Propanediol, Tocopherol
Applications: Hair Care, Skin Care, Face Care, Acne Products, Sun Care, Color Cosmetics
Suggested Use Levels: 3-50%
Comments: A natural emollient derived from Jojoba oil, creating a biome-friendly alternative to nonvolatile low viscosity silicones. This 100%oil-free emollient offers multifunctional benefits like extraordinary silky sensory, sebum control properties, deep soothing effects, acne-prone skin improvement benefits, and hair and scalp protection.It is biodegradable, responsibly sourced, and eco-friendly.
JD Phyto-Or 1%
INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil; Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract/C30-45 Olefin
Applications: Hair Care, Skin brightening, Age well skincare, After sun care, Color cosmetics
Suggested Use Levels: 1.5-2%
Comments: JD Phyto-Or 1% features both JD Jojoba oil and concentrated Phytoene, creating a novel anti-aging and high-performing active for glowing skin and hair. The concentrated Phytoene is sourced from a non-GMO fungi in a solvent-free process, produced through a controlled fermentation pathway.
JD Jojoba Hair Complex
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Solanium Lycopersicum Seed Oil (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol.
Applications: Hair Care, Scalp Care, Baby Care Products
Suggested Use Levels: 1-15%
Comments: This exclusive complex combines natural oils with vitamins essential for healthy hair and scalp, designed for leave-in and rinse-off hair care products, providing moisture balance for the scalp as well as conditioning, heat protection, and frizz reduction benefits for hair.
Volume, color maintenance, In fact, as salon clients want to replicate the volume achieved by their stylists at home, sales of volumizing products increased by an average of nearly 12% in the US, according to recent data from Kline. Texturizing product sales are also picking up, increasing almost 3% in the past year, according to report author Paula Gottdiner, project manager, consumer reports at Kline.
Mass market hairstyling gel and mousse sales increased 5.3% to $1.1 billion, while hair spray and spritz jumped 15.8% to $650.6 million, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2022. For market leaders in both categories, check out the detailed chart here.
Hair is the only category with a “nearly even channel split” between in-store and online sales, found The NPD Group for the third quarter of 2022. Total hair care sales rose 23% to $853.8 million in Q3, according to NPD.
As consumers continue to prioritize hair health, products with strengthening and restoration benefits are outpacing overall hair category growth. According to NPD, hair product sales continue to grow despite fewer promotions.
Turn Up the Volume to Hair Health
With the return of 1990s style blow outs, hair care tutorials are proving very popular on TikTok. And since roughly 43% of TikTok’s global audience is between 18-24 years—and weren’t even born when these styles were de rigueur—they can use insight on what’s needed to protect their strands.Heat protection is important when it comes to tools like blow dryers, flat irons and curling irons/wands, noted Nicole Epps, scientist and scientific communications manager for P&G Hair, Cleveland, OH. She cites Aussie’s Total Miracle Heat Protecting Spray—infused with apricot and Australian macadamia oil—as a popular hair care product within the P&G styling portfolio. The Heat Protecting Spray acts as a barrier between hair and the heat of blow drying, straightening and curling.
TreSemmé Stylist, Texture Expert and Entrepreneur Nai’vasha often uses TreSemmé’s new One Step Styler Collection because each product offers a variety of benefits and works on a variety of hair types and needs.
“This has been a game-changer for not only TreSemmé and its consumers, but also for me as a celebrity hairstylist,” she told Happi. “It helps me save on styling time and speaks to a wide texture range and hair types.” Her favorite One Step Stylers are the One Step Curls Crème Gel and the One Step Blowout.
Smoothing and color care are also at the forefront of hairstyling product attributes right now. For example, at beauty brand R+Co, two new popular products are R+Co Zipper Multitasking Styling Lotion and Sunset Boulevard Blonde Toning Styling Crème. According to the company, Zipper Multitasking Styling Lotion is a frizz-fighting formula ideal for wet setting, wrapping and blow drying.
The fast-drying lotion bonds hair, leaving it less porous with sealed ends and shine, and leaving behind a warm scent of pineapple, tangerine, cardamom, lavender, bamboo and blonde woods. Rice bran extract helps texture and style, while rice seed protein helps strengthen weak hair. Liquid shea butter provides moisture and care to hair while black chia seed oil delivers flexibility, softness and shine.
Meanwhile, the R+Co Boulevard Blonde Toning Styling Crème includes a novel Violet R3 Flower Complex to correct unwanted yellow tones.
Two new Nexxus innovations recently rolled out exclusively on Amazon. Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream and Humectress 360°Perfector Spray are the latest innovations from the Nexxus portfolio to achieve salon-quality hair results, said the company.
The Nexxus Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream is a reparative fiber bonding product that repairs and prevents split ends. The Nexxus Humectress 360 Degree Perfector Spray is a leave-in multi-benefit perfecting treatment that is light, moisturizing and renewing for any hair texture, said Nexxus. It acts as a weightless barrier around every fiber of hair to protect against heat and styling damage.
Redken has completely redesigned its hairstyling portfolio. The modernized product names are highlighted in “eye-catching black sashes with a clear product descriptor,” while the old product names will be temporarily included on the new packaging to help consumers find favorites, noted the company.
While many products in the new packaging are already on shelves, Redken’s new look will continue rolling out in the coming months, added the company. The brand is also finding success with its Redken Volume Maximizer Thickening Spray, a lightweight volumizing spray that pumps up hair volume from root to tip.
Another L’Oréal-owned brand, Matrix, rolled out a new styling collection as well for 2023. New hair care products include hairspray gel and wax spray. The new Matrix Styling Collection is formulated with flexible polymers and conditioning agents to use regardless of hair type or texture, said the company. The six styling essentials are also 100% vegan. The new collection includes a Fixer Hairspray, Controller Gel, Over Achiever 3-in-1, Builder Wax Spray and Refresher Dry Shampoo.
Color Care Continues
Salon brand Colorproof is expanding its popular styling collection with new Rule Breaker Defining Wax. According to the company, unlike traditional waxes, Rule Breaker’s cream wax formula is “uniquely pliable” to deliver a medium hold with definition, shape and color protection. The product has a semi-matte finish and features ozokerite wax, a vegan wax that provides a flexible consistency for versatility and ease of styling while helping maintain and shape creative styles.Also new from Colorproof Texture Charge Defining Finishing Spray with a proprietary blend of polymers and white nettle said to allow particles to adhere to individual hair fibers to absorb excess oils while creating a charge that repels individual hair strands to boost volume, body and texture. The spray also contains organic ginseng and kukui nut oil.
NatureLab Tokyo recently launched Perfect Clean Style Refresher. Rice extract is a natural deodorizer that minimizes the need to shower to clean hair (and strip its color). Silica absorbs oil while shiso oil offers antimicrobial properties. Arrow root extract also targets oil and dirt. The launch follows a rice water-infused Perfect Clean Scalp Balancing Sake Rinse, which works to restore the scalp’s natural balance while removing product buildup and impurities for optimal scalp health, said the company.
Marty Harper, celebrity hairstyling and brand ambassador for NatureLab Tokyo, told Happi, “Style Refresher is truly a refresh. It’s basically that one product consumers can lean on to reboot hair.”
In addition to chic winter hairstyle trends, the beauty industry must consider the harsh conditions hair and scalp are subjected to in colder, drier, winter air. According to Philip Pelusi, a frequent contributor to Happi’s Expert Opinion column online, a hair nemesis is the winter hat.
“Hairstyles are easily destroyed while under any hat, crushing the hair as well as exacerbating static electricity caused by dry winter air and indoor heat. This is something our guests contend with each winter, so we offer seasonal solutions,” he told Happi. “Winter hats work well with current styling trends such as textured loose waves and high or low knots or buns, but it’s the post and preemptive use of moisture-binding ingredients that is the key to help prevent and stop static.”
According to Pelusi, almost 50 years ago his company started enhancing its formulations with the “still revolutionary moisture binding powerhouse” hyaluronic acid in its P2 by Philip Pelusi Deep Hydrating Treatment and P2 Lite Leave In Conditioner.
Epps of P&G shared with Happi that low lights and brunette hues always rise in the winter in hair color.
“Since coloring can tend to leave hair feeling rough and dry, Aussie Hair Insurance Leave-In Conditioner is an important SKU for the brand as it helps keep hair moisturized and also helps tame frizz,” she said.
Clean Beauty Grows in Hairstyling
Natural hair care brand Fekkai recently launched the Clean Stylers Green Aerosols Collection catering to the “environmentally-conscious generation of hair care that celebrates the future of sustainability,” according to the company. The range features three products: a Sheer Dry Shampoo, Volume Lock Hairspray and Flexi-Hold Hairspray.The new Fekkai launches are powered by Solstice Propellant Technology, the first non-ozone depleting aerosol created to deliver a high-performance ultra-fine, non-flaking and quick-drying mist without compromising on environmental impact, said the company.
“We are the first luxury hair care brand to defy the gravity of performance by being sustainable, clean and highly effective,” said company founder Frederic Fekkai. “When the first electric cars were launched, they had very few clients. Today, Tesla, Audi and Porsche all have electric cars. In my view, we are the Tesla of sustainable hair care.”
In the indie category, vegan beauty brand Remilia Hair is seeing success with its Green Coco Hair Mask. Made locally in Los Angeles, the cruelty-free, bi-weekly treatment was designed to boost hair shine, manageability and improve hair’s long-term health. The product (pictured on this month’s cover of Happi) contains all-natural ingredients such as avocado oil and green tea extract. Hydrolyzed vegetable protein works to mimic the composition of hydrolyzed keratin to provide a sustainable solution to hydrate hair, said the indie beauty company.
For Textured Tresses
Targeting consumers with curly, coily, wavy and tight textures, salon brand Keratin Complex launched its leave-in conditioner specifically designed for all kinds of curl patterns. The new KCTexture line is starting off with the Keratin Complex KCTexture Leave-In Conditioner. It features a proprietary blend of signature keratin, coconut and watermelon seed oils, as well as soy and barley proteins.According to the company, this hydrating leave-in strengthens and moisturizes—and while it’s designed specifically for curls, it can also be used on all hair “fabrics.”
“Adding to our KCTexture collection was important for us as its continues to support our messaging that Keratin Complex delivers beautiful hair every day to all hair fabrics and textures. Curly clients now have a curly keratin treatment and curl care collection, including this new product, that allows them to experience stronger, healthier and more hydrated curls,” Zoe Hyams, senior vice president, marketing and public relations, Keratin Complex, West Palm Beach, FL told Happi.
Curlsmith’s newest addition for textured hair is Full Body Thickening Lotion. This lightweight styler gives hair “life-proof” volume that lasts for 24+ hours, according to the company which was recently acquired by Helen of Troy. The formula is blended with a “hyper-branched” polymer that transforms hair fibers to create space between the strands while drying to give hair instant volume. With a blend of stimulating ginger, nettle leaves, dragon fruit and guarana extracts, this smooth lotion helps boost hair’s texture while hydrating and adding shine.
“The texture is super slippy, which is great for textured hair. It coats each strand like a leave-in conditioner. I layer it underneath my styling products so it feels like a primer pumping the volume up straight away,” said Jennie Roberts, celebrity hair stylist, textured hair educator and global senior hairstylist for Curlsmith, London. “I’ve been suffering from thinning hair for five years due to age and various stuff, so I’ve tried them all. While most thickening products can make hair sticky, dry or just super heavy, this lightweight formula will give you a great definition, creating space and volume between each curl.”
Mielle Organics recently made Happi headlines for its sale to P&G. According to recent Nielsen sales data, Mielle’s Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil now reigns as the best-selling product across the textured hair care category in the US. With one bottle sold every 15 seconds and more than 14k reviews on Amazon, Mielle’s award-winning oil has established a cult following of loyal customers from around the world.
From nourishing hair follicles, smoothing split ends and helping with a dry scalp, this hair oil features more than 30 essential oils and nutrients and is infused with biotin. Versatile in application, Mielle’s Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil can be applied to the scalp daily, integrated into specialized scalp treatments, enjoyed during a hot oil treatment or used for regular split end care. It is also formulated for all hair types and textures and is safe for chemically-treated hair.
“At Mielle, we take great pride in producing top quality, innovative and effective hair care products,” said Monique Rodriguez, founder of Mielle Organics, which was profiled as a leading indie brand in the January 2023 edition of Happi, which was published only days before the P&G deal was announced.
Also for textured hair, indie brand The Doux recently debuted the Bee Girl collection at Walmart. It includes cationic honey, which smooths the hair’s negatively-charged cuticle to boost shine, seal in moisture and fight frizz, acording to the company. The products are named for iconic hip-hop/R&B songs by legendary female artists such as the Mist Demeanor Honey Shine Mist, Push It! Braid & Edge Gel, Ladies First Honey Shampoo and more. It partnered with rapper Baby Tate for a TikTok campaign #ThisIsHowWeDouxIt at the end of 2022.
DevaCurl expands with The Mist of Wonders Leave-In Instant Multi-Benefit Curl Spray. According to the company, the hairstyling product is formulated with a 12-in-1 Nutri-Curl technology for all curl types. It moisturizes and reduces frizz by up to 85%, eases detangling by up to 85%, strengthens curls by up to 69%, protects hair up to 450° and is safe on color treated hair, said the company. A refillable pouch is also available for purchase to refill the spray bottle as needed for sustainability measures.
According to göt2b, its glued styling products (Blasting Freeze Spray and Spiking Glue) have been staples for performers, athletes, drag queens and the everyday consumer who wants lasting hold. Now, the brand is launching products specifically meant for protective styles such as wigs and extensions—Bonding Glue and (un)glued Flash Glue Remover. The Bonding Glue delivers invisible bonding for wigs and is gentle on the scalp while the Flash Glue Remover removes glue and conditions while it detangles.
Stylish Data
There are 4.7K searches on average every month in the US for volumizing mousse, according to market research firm Spate. In the past year, searches rose 38.7% led by Redken, the market leader.According to Spate, consumers want to add volume to their hair, and are turning to volumizing mousse to make it happen. Related searches include best, curly hair, fine hair, plumping, short hair, drugstore and weightless.
The broad appeal of volumizing mousse is evident in related searches such as curly hair, fine hair and short hair —demonstrating that consumers seek a volumizing mousse that works for their hair types.
Searches for drugstore reveal that consumers may be price sensitive, so mousse affordability is key, said Spate in its report.
In Yelp’s 2023 trend report, the butterfly haircut—a term coined by celebrity stylist Sunnie Brook—is a new twist on once-popular Farrah Fawcett layers. Searches for “butterfly haircut” were up 55%, according to Yelp.
Across social media are various hair care remedies—think rice water, rosemary oil, scalp serums and other clean-beauty formulations designed to promote hair growth, conditioning and brilliant shine.
Some consumers look to Yelp for professional services that can help freshen up their locks. Searches for scalp treatments rose 74%, according to Yelp.
At New York Fashion Week’s Spring and Summer 2023 shows in New York City, a variety of unique hairstyles flooded the runways. Hair care brands were in-step innovating to create next-level products for smoothing strands, maintain hold and even curl care.
“We wanted to create different characters this season, and decided on an array of hair looks—from twisted, organic mohawks to natural waves and textured bobs—that would speak to this collection and celebration of individuality,” said designer Joseph Altuzarra about international hairstylist Jawara’s usage of Fekkai beauty products during his fashion show.
Looking into the crystal ball for 2024, global authority for consumer and design forecasting WGSN recently weighed in on the future of hair care.
As one of the best performing categories throughout the pandemic, the hair care industry is on the brink of a revolution, according to WGSN.
The expansion of hair care routines, hair “snacks” like color care mascaras and the “skinification” of the category is driving progress in bioengineering, sustainability and inclusivity.
Wella Professionals rolled out its latest integrated marketing campaign, Wella Extra. In correlation, the hair care brand is also expanding its distribution into Amazon. The nine-month social marketing campaign will bring the professional brand into the consumer hair care marketplace with the development of Wella Muses, a consumer and hairdresser influencer community. The brand’s TikTok channel will showcase the Muses’ content featuring inspiration, education, tips and new product drops. Products featured in the campaign include Wella Professionals at-home care collections, Wella Color Charm DIY color and Wella Professionals in-salon care and color services. “This is the first time Wella has launched a megabrand campaign that will extend across both its care and professional product lines,” said Lori Pantel, chief marketing officer, Wella Company, North America. With this campaign, we want to tap into the emotion and the confidence that you feel when your hair is styled—whether you have just come out of the salon chair or the shower, Wella is your partner in feeling extra.” Newly available products on Amazon include Wella Brand Ambassador Lucy Hale’s “number one go to for shiny, healthy hair” Oil Reflections Luminous Smoothing Oil. |
WGSN, a consumer and design forecasting company, recently weighed in on the Future of Hair Care. WGSN looked past 2023 and into 2024. As one of the best performing categories throughout the pandemic, the hair care industry is on the brink of a revolution, according to WGSN. The expansion of hair care routines and the “skinification” of the category is driving progress in bioengineering, sustainability and inclusivity. Key insights include: The Hair Care Ritual New aspirations for hair health mean that consumers are looking for multi-step hair care routines, similar to skin care. Popularized by TikTok, age-old practices such as pre-wash oiling routines and rice water rinses are on the rise. Hair Snacks Quick, controlled and playful touch-up opportunities will be key. Think hair care mascaras and dry shampoos. Cleanical Color Heading into 2024, no part of the product will go unquestioned and “clean” color will be the expectation in the dye category. Natural does not always equal better.Google searches for natural hair dye are lower than pre-pandemic levels and consumers will look to science for ammonia-free color. Products that cater to color-treated hair will be imperative, said WGSN. |
Hair Care New Ingredients
Here are new hair care ingredients for your next formulation. For more information, contact the supplier in the listing.Coast Southwest
Arlington, TXwww.coastsouthwest.com
sales@coastsouthwest.com
800-621-0500
CapilAcid
INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, leave-in, treatment masks, styling creams
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: CapilAcid is a natural, active ingredient for haircare derived from the Maqui berry, the most antioxidant fruit originating in Andean Patagonia. CapilAcid protects the lipids of the F-layer of the hair fiber which is responsible for maintaining hydrophobicity, low porosity, and hydration.
Extracell Plex
INCI: Saccharomyces Lysate
Applications:Shampoo, conditioner, leave-in, treatment masks, styling creams
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Extracell Plex is a biotechnological active obtained from the Malbec grape. It rebuilds, restores, and protects the hair architecture by providing low molecular weight yeast peptides that act to replace damaged keratin-associated proteins and provide extra protection to keratin and its disulfide bridges.
Glossamer L6600
INCI: Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Applications:Shampoo, conditioner, ethnic hair care products
Suggested Use Levels: 1-10%
Comments:Glossamer L6600 is a unique, bio-based, biodegradable polymer produced from purified oils. Its film-forming properties impart multiple benefits, including moisturization and water- and wear-resistance. Glossamer L6600 intensifies conditioning properties and enriches gloss and shine.
JD Lusteris
INCI: Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Alcohol (and) Propanediol (and) Tocopherol
Applications: Haircare, skincare, acne products, suncare, color cosmetics
Suggested Use Levels: 3-50%
Comments: A natural emollient derived from Jojoba oil, creating a biome-friendly alternative to nonvolatile low-viscosity silicones. This 100 percent oil-free emollient offers multifunctional benefits including hair and scalp protection, advanced sensory performance, sebum-control properties, and deep soothing effects. It is biodegradable, responsibly sourced, and eco-friendly.
Jojoba Desert Ltd.
Kibbutz Hatzerim, Israelwww.jojobadesert.com
contacts@jojobadesert.com
Israel: +972-8-6473296
USA: 201-431-9800
JD Lusteris
INCI: Jojoba Esters, Jojoba Alcohol, Propanediol, Tocopherol
Applications: Hair Care, Skin Care, Face Care, Acne Products, Sun Care, Color Cosmetics
Suggested Use Levels: 3-50%
Comments: A natural emollient derived from Jojoba oil, creating a biome-friendly alternative to nonvolatile low viscosity silicones. This 100%oil-free emollient offers multifunctional benefits like extraordinary silky sensory, sebum control properties, deep soothing effects, acne-prone skin improvement benefits, and hair and scalp protection.It is biodegradable, responsibly sourced, and eco-friendly.
JD Phyto-Or 1%
INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil; Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract/C30-45 Olefin
Applications: Hair Care, Skin brightening, Age well skincare, After sun care, Color cosmetics
Suggested Use Levels: 1.5-2%
Comments: JD Phyto-Or 1% features both JD Jojoba oil and concentrated Phytoene, creating a novel anti-aging and high-performing active for glowing skin and hair. The concentrated Phytoene is sourced from a non-GMO fungi in a solvent-free process, produced through a controlled fermentation pathway.
JD Jojoba Hair Complex
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Solanium Lycopersicum Seed Oil (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol.
Applications: Hair Care, Scalp Care, Baby Care Products
Suggested Use Levels: 1-15%
Comments: This exclusive complex combines natural oils with vitamins essential for healthy hair and scalp, designed for leave-in and rinse-off hair care products, providing moisture balance for the scalp as well as conditioning, heat protection, and frizz reduction benefits for hair.